The Complete Guide To Garages - Design, Build, Remodel & Maintain Your Garage

The Complete Guide to
GARAGES 2nd Edition
Design, Build, Remodel & Maintain Your Garage

Includes 9 Complete Garage Plans
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
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© 2017 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
First published in 2009 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of Quarto Names: Cool Springs Press, author. | Black & Decker Corporation
Publishing Group USA Inc., 400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, (Towson, Md.)
Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. This edition published in 2017. Title: The complete guide to garages : design, build, remodel &
Telephone: (612) 344-8100 Fax: (612) 344-8692 maintain your garage.
Other titles: Black & Decker, the complete guide to garages
quartoknows.com Description: 2nd edition. | Minneapolis, MN, USA : Quarto Publishing
Visit our blogs at quartoknows.com Group USA Inc., 2017. | At head of title: Black & Decker. |
"First published in 2009 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc."--Verso title page. | Includes
form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images bibliographical references and index.
in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior Identifiers: LCCN 2016056225 | ISBN 9781591866848 (sc : alk.
consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted paper)
by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright Subjects: LCSH: Garages--Design and construction--Amateurs' manuals.
or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every | Garages--Maintenance and repair--Amateurs' manuals.
effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with Classification: LCC TH4960 .C66 2017 | DDC 690/.898--dc23
information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016056225
have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a
subsequent reprinting of the book. Acquiring Editor: Todd R. Berger
Project Manager: Alyssa Bluhm
Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discounts in bulk Art Director: Brad Springer
quantity for industrial or sales-promotional use. For details contact Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
the Special Sales Manager at Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc., Photography: Rich Fleischman
400 First Avenue North, Suite 400, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. Photo Assistance: Ian Miller, Brad Holden
Edition Editor: Chris Peterson
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Printed in China
ISBN: 978-1-59186-684-8
Digital edition: 978-0-76035-817-7
Softcover edition: 978-1-59186-684-8
FPO
BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and
BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the
information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.

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Contents
The Complete Guide to Garages 31
Introduction 7
Gallery of Garages 9
38
Building a New Garage 17
Making Plans 18
Building the Foundation 20
Framing & Raising Walls 26
Installing Roof Framing 36
Sheathing Walls 44
Installing Fascia & Soffits 48
Building the Roof 52 71
Installing Windows & Service Doors 60
Installing Overhead Garage Doors 68
Installing Siding & Trim 74

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Contents (Cont.)
Garage Plans 83
105
Single Detached Garage 84
Compact Garage 90
Gambrel Garage 104
Remodeling a Garage 121

The Garage Workshop 122
Electrical & Lighting Improvements 125
136 Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage 127
Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures 134
Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED 136
Adding a Garage Window 140
Installing a Skylight 146
Walls & Storage 150
Finishing Interior Walls 152
162 Hanging Pegboard 156

Installing Adjustable Shelving Systems 160
Utility Shelves 162
Installing Garage Cabinets 166

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Installing a Complete Slat-Wall Storage System 170
171
Installing a Ceiling Storage Unit 178
Adding a Custom Storage Loft 180
Floor Improvements 184
Garage Floor Treatments 186
Installing Interlocking Floor Tiles 192
Garage Door Openers 196
Garage Maintenance 201 180
Renewing a Garage Floor 202

Tuning Up Garage Doors 206
Special Section: Bonus Garage Plans 212
Resources 236
Photo Credits 236 186
Metric Conversion Charts 237
Index 238
200

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I

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Introduction
A lthough a garage is not usually considered a “room” of the house, it probably should
be. Today, garages are adaptable spaces. They can function simply as storage
facilities for vehicles from cars and trucks to boats and ATVs, but a garage can also be
an ideal workshop for those vehicles, one so well outfitted that professionals would envy
it. Or the space might make a handy hobby room where the woodworker, model train
enthusiast, electronics buff, or general tinkerer can get away from it all and indulge.
Even more importantly, the garage remains a central storage area for all kinds of
household goods, from emergency rations to seasonal camping gear.
This new edition of The Complete Guide to through siding and trim, you’ll also find updated
Garages covers all those possibilities and more. information on the latest advances in materials for
And because integrating the design of the garage use in the garage.
into the style of the home continues as a larger This edition also includes a new garage
trend, this edition presents the latest in new stylish remodeling section. All too often, our garages
storage, garage doors, wall coverings, and other become sprawling messes, the final resting place for
options for the garage. None of these represent odds and ends that seem to have no other place in
earth-shaking changes to the structure or wildly the home. This new section will guide you through
new technologies. That’s not really how garages the process of refining your garage, from thoughtfully
evolve. They change over time in small steps. It planning a layout and designing storage that make
took decades to move from manual garage doors sense; to boosting lighting to increase safety, security,
that you pulled open, to remote-controlled models, and comfort; to updating your garage door. You’ll find
to today’s door openers that can be controlled with brand-new projects, such as adding a solar skylight,
a smartphone and can tie into a “smart” home’s that have the ability to truly transform any garage.
security network. As a big bonus, this edition includes twenty-four
Technology is all well and fine, but the look of pages of garage plans that you can use right out
the garage is just as important these days. With that of the book to create your own magnificent garage
in mind, we’ve updated the gallery that begins this from scratch. All that and much more is why now
book with sharp new looks in door designs, garage is the perfect time to reconsider what your garage
exteriors, storage add-ons, and the latest garage can be, and to take steps to create a special space
fixtures. And although we’ve kept all that important customized to your needs—one that complements
information on building a new garage, from framing the rest of your beautiful home.
INTRODUCTION 7

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Gallery of Garages
A ttached or not, garages these days are as much

style statements as places to park the family
minivan. Modern storage fixtures, LED lighting,
new door styles, and stunning floor options are all
designed with form as much in mind as function.
More than ever before, attached garages are being
styled and even finished to match the look and
design of the rest of the house. But where there is no
garage, the option to build a detached unit opens up
even more possibilities. If the structure will be sited
at a distance from the house, you can choose from
an amazing array of design styles, from modern to
Victorian. Add features such as a full-blown second
story, operable windows, and chic security doors for
an even more distinctive appearance. With detached
garages, you’ll be able to create a unique look or blend
the outbuilding with the style of your home.
Whatever your tastes, preferences, and storage
needs, you can customize your garage to perfectly
suit them. The samples in the pages that follow are
nothing if not proof of that fact. Peruse them for ideas
and inspiration, and then start designing your own
dream garage.
Spectacular design highlights this garage that makes a bold

statement. The mirrored designs on the doors and the gable,
and the natural colors, situate the garage perfectly in its
Pacific Northwest environment.
GALLERY OF GARAGES 9

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Exploit an existing attached garage
structure to add separate living space.
This two-car garage is seamlessly
blended with the architecture of the
house, and an efficiency apartment
has been added as a second story over
the garage, leveraging the preexisting
foundation and framed structure.
Match garage doors to the home’s architectural style for big

visual impact. These classic wood garage doors with raised
panels and lites perfectly complement the contemporary
brick home with its Craftsman-style touches. Not to
mention, the doors are beautiful in their own right.
C
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Make sure your garage storage doesn’t look cluttered.
Integrate a mix of cabinets, slat-wall storage, and overhead
racks as this homeowner did, and the jumbled, crowded look
of the originally organized space now looks both organized
and tidy.
Customize your garage storage with specialty wall-mounted racks and cabinets. The system in this garage illustrates how varied
this type of storage can be.

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Adapt your garage to your particular storage needs. Today’s marketplace offers specialized storage for the garage, allowing you to
use the space for sporting goods, tools, equipment, and anything else you might possibly want to store in the structure.
A
p
w
Add high style to the garage with a modern storage system that delivers looks and capacity. Upscale storage systems such as
this include mix-and-match components that allow you to customize your storage with a look that screams custom-built.

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Accommodate exactly what you need to store with a modern slat-wall storage system. The manufacturers of these useful
products have developed hooks, hangers, and shelves that are incredibly specific—offering storage for anything from a set of
wrenches to a mountain bike.
Light for the best

possible view. The
LED fixture in this
garage shines a
bright white light that
sharpens detail and
makes doing anything
in the space easier
and safer.

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Accent detached garages to give them a strong identity and beautify the property. The wood-paneled doors, door lites, and A
detailed lighting fixtures of this detached garage give it as much character as the home itself. t
y
E
t
Combine looks and modern technology for an efficient and durable garage door that complements the home. This wood-toned a
metal door is a strong security feature, but its design also blends seamlessly with a modern Asian aesthetic.
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Add moveable cabinetry with accents such as the backsplash Use wire shelving with adjustable racks for a low-cost storage
track wall shown here for flexible storage options right where option—and one that is perfect for holding odd shapes and
you need them. unusual combinations of items.
Exploit corners in the garage. Specially made cabinetry like Fool the eye for a unique effect. The carriage-style doors on
this provides not only accessible storage in the space but also this garage may look like they open out, but this is actually an
adds a corner work surface. overhead steel garage door. The windows add light and style,
and the faux hinges put the icing on the cake of the illusion.

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Building a
New Garage
H ere you have the opportunity to follow along

as we build a detached single-car garage from
scratch. As you’ll see in the plans on pages 18 to 19,
the overall design is straightforward, so this structure
will blend well with most home styles. There is still
plenty of room to add your own special touches with
the siding, roofing, doors, and windows you select.
Even if you choose not to build this exact garage
design, you can use the project to learn construction
methods and techniques that can be adapted to
whatever garage you decide to build.
Building a new garage can be an incredibly
gratifying experience for an experienced do-it-
yourselfer. You have the opportunity to practice a
variety of skills, from pouring a foundation to framing
and erecting walls and rafters to hanging soffits and
fascia. If you’ve never dared to install siding or shingle
a roof, this garage project provides a manageable
way to explore those skills so you can bolster your
confidence for bigger projects. We’ll even show you
how to install windows, a service door, and a sectional
overhead garage door so you can truly take on every
aspect of this job.
In this chapter:
• Making Plans
• Building the Foundation
• Framing & Raising Walls
• Installing Roof Framing
• Sheathing Walls
• Installing Fascia & Soffits
• Building the Roof
• Installing Windows & Service Doors
• Installing Overhead Garage Doors
• Installing Siding & Trim
BUILDING A NEW GARAGE 17

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F
Making Plans
T o successfully build your own garage you must

have a complete set of construction drawings. At a
minimum that will include a site drawing that shows
your garage in situ relative to your house, including
property boundaries and municipal sidewalks;
elevation drawings from the front, back, and both sides;
and a plan view drawing. You will need these along with
A complete plan for building your garage starts with detailed
a cost estimate for your building permit applications. construction drawings. Based on your drawings, break the
Additional drawings, such as detail drawings of rafters project into smaller tasks and try to estimate how long each
or trusses and finishing details, and materials and phase will take and whether you will need to enlist help.
cutting lists are also helpful. Finally, draft a plan with
hard dates to create an overall project schedule. Be sure blueprints (see Garage Plans, pages 83 to 119). If you’re
to flag any points where you’ll need deliveries (such as not familiar with reading plans, don’t worry; they’re
E
ready-mix concrete for the slab) or a helper or two. It is easy to use once you know how to look at the different f
important to be realistic when making plans. views. Flipping back and forth between the plan f
Some of the projects in this book include complete drawings and the project’s step-by-step photos will
construction drawings in the style of architectural help you visualize the actual structure.
F
BUILDING SECTION
1'-61⁄8" 8'-113⁄4" 1'-61⁄8"
2 × 6 Ridge
2 × 4 Collar, 32" O.C.

12
6 1
⁄2" Plywood roof sheathing
2 × 4 Rafter, 16" O.C.

Top of nailer
Double 2 × 4 top plates

2'-85⁄8"
2'-71⁄8"
12 2 × 8 Nailer
24 2 × 4 Studs, 16" O.C.

5 1⁄ 2"
2 × 4 Bottom plate, set on joists

3
⁄4" Plywood, set
between plates
Rough opening
1 × 6 Fascia
2'-6"
2 × 6 Joists, 16" O.C.

8'-11⁄8"
8'-11⁄8"

6'-5 ⁄8"
2 - 2 × 8 Header
3
w/ 1⁄2" plywood spacer
Texture 1-11 plywood siding
2 × 4 Studs, 16" O.C.

31⁄2" Concrete slab on-grade
4" Compacted gravel

P
d
t
A building section is the most comprehensive drawing, giving you a side view of the structure sliced in half down the middle. It s
shows both the framing and finish elements. a

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FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION SILL DETAIL
2 × 6 Ridge
2 × 4 Stud
4'-111⁄2" Double 2 × 4
Rough opening stud under ridge Texture 1-11 plywood siding
3
Gable wall top plate 2 × 4 Rafters ⁄8" Anchor bolt,
8" long, 4'-O" O.C. max.
2-2×6 2 × 6 Joists 6" from corner
Header w/1⁄2" Double
plywood spacer opening 2 × 4 Treated bottom plate
3'-41⁄4"
Rough
2 × 4 top plates
2 × 4 Soffit 31⁄2" Concrete
2 × 4 Studs slab-on-grade. w/ 6 × 6" -
ledger
W1.4 × W1.4 W.W.M.
2×4 2 4
Angle brace,
1"
6'-8" Rough opening
3 1⁄ 2"
installed @ 45°
8'-11⁄8"
Grade
2-2×8
8"
6'-0"
Header w/1⁄2"
plywood spacer
2 × 4 Studs
16" O.C. 2 - #4 Bars
2 × 4 Treated
bottom plate 4" Compacted gravel
2'-0" 8'-0" 2'-0" 8"
Rough opening
Elevations give you a direct, exterior view of the building Detail drawings and templates show close-ups of specific
t from all sides. Drawings may include elevations for both the areas or parts of the structure. They typically show a side or
framing and the exterior finishes. overhead view.
FLOOR PLAN PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS

Roof lines shown dashed
In most cases, deciding where to locate a detached
2 × 4 Studs 16" O.C.
garage is pretty obvious. But here are some points to
3½" Floating concrete slab on-
grade w/ 6 × 6" - 10/10 WWM keep in mind as you evaluate possible locations:
• Soil and drainage: To ensure that your foundation will

last (whatever type it is), locate your garage on solid
3'-6"
soil in an area that won’t collect water.
• Utility lines: Contact local utility providers to find

out where the water, gas, septic, and electrical lines
Rough opening
run through your property. Often, local ordinances

12'-0"
12'-0"
5'-0"
and utility companies require lines to be marked

before digging.
• Building permits: Obtain permits, if your local

jurisdiction requires them.
3'-6"
8' × 6'-8" Garage door

• Setback requirements: Most zoning laws dictate
that all buildings, fences, etc., in a yard must be
Rough opening
2'-0" 8'-0" 2'-0" set back a specific distance from the property
12'-0" line. This setback may range from 6" to 3'
Dimensions are to outside faces of studs or more.
Plan views are an overhead perspective, as if looking straight • Neighbors: Out of respect—and to prevent
down from above the structure. Floor plans show the layout of complaints that could later interfere with the
the walls or upright supports with the top half of the structure building process—talk to your neighbors about
sliced off. There are also foundation plans, roof framing plans, your project.
and other plan views.

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Building the Foundation
T he slab foundation commonly used for garages is

called a slab-on-grade foundation. This combines
a 3½- to 4-inch-thick floor slab with an 8- to 12-inch-
A slab for a garage requires a lot of concrete.
Considering the amount involved, you’ll probably
want to order ready-mix concrete delivered by
thick perimeter footing that provides extra support truck to the site (most companies have a one-yard
for the walls of the building. The whole foundation minimum). Order air-entrained concrete, which will
can be poured at one time using a simple wood form. hold up best, and tell the mixing company that you’re
Because they sit above ground, slab-on-grade using it for an exterior slab.
foundations are susceptible to frost heave; in
cold-weather climates they are suitable only for
detached buildings. Specific design requirements TOOLS & MATERIALS
also vary by locality, so check with the local building
department regarding the depth of the slab, the metal Work gloves & Wood or magnesium
reinforcement required, the type and amount of gravel eye protection concrete float
required for the subbase, and whether a plastic or Stakes & boards Concrete edging tool
other type of moisture barrier is needed under the slab. Mason’s lines Compactable gravel
The slab shown in this project has a 3½-inch-thick
Plumb bob 2 × 8 lumber
interior with an 8-inch-wide × 8-inch-deep footing
along the perimeter. The top of the slab sits 4 inches Shovel 3" deck screws
A
above ground level (grade). There is a 4-inch-thick Long level Metal mending plates a
layer of compacted gravel underneath the slab and Tape measure Re-wire mesh
the concrete is reinforced internally with a layer Drill Concrete
of 6 × 6-inch 10/10 welded wire mesh (WWM). In
some areas, you may be required to add rebar in the Wheelbarrow J-bolts
foundation perimeter. Check the local code. After the Bull float Concrete cure & seal
concrete is poured and finished, 8-inch-long J-bolts Paint roller Hammer
are set into the slab along the edges. These are used Concrete groover tool
later to anchor the wall framing to the slab.
A concrete slab
with an adjoining
concrete apron
and driveway
is the most
common garage
foundation setup.
T
f
a

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22'-0"
8" 8" 5'-4" 5'-4" 1'-4" 4'-0" 4'-0" 1'-4"
1'-43⁄4"
5"
Top/foundation wall elevation 0'-0" 13⁄4 Typ. - for

3 3⁄4 "
anchor bolt location
Anchor bolts - typ.

top/floor slab
Top/foundation notch elevation 0'-2"
elevation 0'-8"
Unexcavated
4" Conc. slab w/ 6" × 6" - #10 × #10
W.W.F. over 4" gravel base
9'41⁄2"
14'-0"
Notch foundation 8" Pitch floor 2"

for door above
7"
Notch foundation 6" above service dr.
3'-13⁄4" 2'-10" Top floor slab @ dr. elevation 0'-2"

3'-23⁄4"
2'-33⁄4"
Top/foundation wall elevation 0'-0"

4"
8" 1'-4" 4'-6" 3'-6" 1'-4" 5'-4" 4'-0" 1'-4"

Top/Foundation
Elevation 0'-0" 22'-0"
A plan view of the slab should include J-bolt locations, door locations, and footing sizes. Also indicate the overall dimensions
and the direction and height of the floor pitch.
Temporary
21⁄2 proj.
form stakes
21⁄2 proj.
6"
To extend 6" below local frost line
6" × 6" - #10 × #10 W.W.F.

4"
18"
Min. 12"
6" × 6" - #10 × #10 W.W.F.

8"
2 - #4 rods
Remove form boards

after concrete sets.
16"
The garage slab cannot simply float on the ground. It requires footings around the perimeter. For detached garages, an 8 × 16"
footing will comply with most local codes. For attached garages, the footings must extend past the frostline. In both cases, an
ample layer of drainage rock is required to help minimize movement from freezing and thawing.

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How to Pour a Concrete Slab
1 String lines
2" slope toward door 4" concrete

for drainage 6" × 6" reinforcing mesh
Gravel
Hold down bolts
To 6" below frost line, if required
B
Begin to lay out the excavation with pairs of batterboards installed at each corner of the garage slab site. Position them about 2' o
outside the perimeter of the slab area so you’ll have plenty of room to work. Run level mason’s lines between the batterboards s
to establish the final size of the slab. Drop a plumb bob down from the intersections of the strings, and drive a stake at j
each corner. m
t
P
s
2 3
A
Excavate the area about 2' wider and longer than the staked Fill the excavation area with 4" of compactable gravel, letting it y
size of the slab. The poured slab should slope 2" total from spill down into the 12"-deep footings that frame the perimeter. b
the back wall to the overhead door wall to facilitate drainage. Tamp the gravel level and smooth it with a rented plate o
Remove 3 to 4" of soil from the excavation area, and dig compactor. The gravel surface should maintain the 2" total o
a deeper trench around the perimeter for the footing. The back-to-front slope. Depending on your soil conditions, some
outside of the footing should line up with the mason’s lines. concrete contractors recommend laying 6-mil polyethylene O
Slope the soil to create a transition between the excavated sheeting over the compacted base to form a moisture barrier. #
interior and the footing. Check your local building codes to i
determine the correct footing size and depth for your climate TIP: Install electrical conduit underneath the slab if you will t
and soil conditions. be providing underground electrical service. a

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4 5
Build a form for pouring the slab using 2 × 8 lumber or strips Drive wood stakes along the outsides of the form at 4'
of exterior-rated plywood. The inside dimensions of the form intervals. Place two stakes at each corner. Set the tops of the
should match the final slab size. If necessary on long runs, stakes flush with the top edges of the form (or slightly below
join the lumber end-to-end, reinforcing the butt joints with the tops). As you drive the stakes, periodically check the form
metal mending plates screwed to the outside surfaces. Fasten for level and measure from corner to corner to ensure that it’s
the form pieces together at the corners with 3" deck screws. square. Measure down from the mason’s lines to position the
Position the form so it aligns with the mason’s lines. The form form 4" above grade. Attach the stakes to the form with deck
should also follow the 2" total back-to-front slope. screws to hold the form in place.
ESTIMATING CONCRETE
Calculate the amount of concrete needed for a slab of
the design shown on this page using this formula:
Width × Length × Depth, in feet (of main slab)

Multiply by 1.5 (for footing edge and spillage)
Divide by 27 (to convert to cubic yards).
Example—for a 12 × 12' × 3½" slab:
12 × 12 × 3½" = 42
42 × 1.5 = 63
63 ÷ 27 = 211⁄16 approx. (2.33 cubic yards)
6 CONCRETE COVERAGE
Volume Slab Thickness Surface Area
Add re-wire reinforcement according to the requirements in 1 cu. yd. 2" 160 sq. ft.
your area. Here, rows of 6 × 6 10/10 wire mesh are set onto
bolsters (chunks of brick) in the pour area. Overlap the sheets 1 cu. yd. 3" 110 sq. ft.
of mesh by 6", and stop the rows about 2" in from the insides 1 cu. yd. 4" 80 sq. ft
of the form. Fasten the mesh together with wire tie.
1 cu. yd. 5" 65 sq. ft.
OPTION: Reinforce the footings by laying out two rows of 1 cu. yd. 6" 55 sq. ft.
#4 rebar 2" above the bottom of the trench by wire-tying 1 cu. yd. 8" 40 sq. ft.
it to shorter pieces of rebar driven into the gravel. Space
the rows about 4" apart. You’ll need to dig out the gravel to
accomplish this. (continued)

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7 8
Pour the concrete. Have ready-mix concrete delivered to your Strike off the concrete once a section of a form is filled. The
job site and place it into the forms with wheelbarrows and best way to do this is to have two helpers strike off (screed)
shovels (make sure to have plenty of help for this job). Fill the the wet concrete with a long 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 that spans the
form with concrete, starting at one end. Use a shovel to settle width of the form. Drag the screed board back and forth along
the concrete around the reinforcement and to remove air the top of the form in a sawing motion to level and smooth
pockets. Fill the form to the top. the concrete. Fill any voids ahead of the screed board with
shovelfuls of concrete.
NOTE: In most municipalities you must have the forms and
subbase inspected before the concrete is poured.
O
9 10 y
s
l
Smooth the surface further with a bull float as soon as you’re Push J-bolts down into the concrete, wiggling them slightly 2
finished screeding, working across the width of the slab. to eliminate air pockets. Twist the bottom hooked ends so w
Floating forces aggregate down and draws sand and water to they face into the slab. Position the J-bolts 1¾" from the t
the surface to begin the smoothing process. edges of the slab, aligned with your layout marks. Leave
2½" of bolt thread exposed, and make sure the J-bolts are N
plumb. Smooth the surrounding concrete with a wooden or t
magnesium concrete float.

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BLEED WATER
11
Timing is key to an attractive concrete finish. When
concrete is poured, the heavy materials gradually sink,
leaving a thin layer of water—known as bleed water—on
the surface. Let bleed water dry before proceeding with
other steps. Follow these rules:
• Settle and screed the concrete and add control

joints immediately after pouring and before bleed
water appears.
• Let bleed water dry before floating or edging.

Concrete should be hard enough that foot pressure
leaves no more than a ¼"-deep impression.
• Do not overfloat the concrete; it may cause bleed

water to reappear. Stop floating if a sheen appears,
and resume when it is gone.
Use a magnesium or wood hand-held float to refine the slab’s

finished surface as soon as the bleed water evaporates (see
Bleed Water, left). Work the float back and forth, starting from
the middle of the slab and moving outward to the edges. Use
large scraps of 2"-thick rigid foam insulation as kneeling pads
while you work.
12
OPTIONAL: Cut control joints using a groover (left photo) if

your local codes require them (dividing slabs into 10 × 10'
sections is standard). Lay a long 2 × 12 to span the slab and
line up one edge so it’s centered on the slab’s length. Use a
2 × 4 (or the 2 × 12) as a guide for cutting across the slab
with a groover tool. Then, round the edges of the slab next
to the forms using an edging tool (right photo). Apply a coat of cure and seal product (See Resources, page
236) to the surface once it dries so you do not have to water
NOTE: Instead of grooving, you may cut control joints in the concrete surface during the curing stage. After a couple
the dried concrete using a concrete saw. of days, strip off the forms. Wait at least one more day before
you begin building on the slab.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 25
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & eye protection Stakes
Combination square Pressure-treated
Drill & spade bit 2× lumber for sole plates
Miter saw 2× pine lumber
Framing & Raising Walls Marker

Speed square
(2 × 4, 2 × 8, 2 × 12)
Galvanized common nails
(8d, 10d, 16d)
Tape measure (25' to 50')
1 × 4 bracing
F raming and erecting walls should prove to be Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)
Deck screws
one of the more enjoyable aspects of your new Caulk gun
garage project. You’ll be able to assemble the entire Galvanized washers
Mason’s line & nuts for J-bolts
skeleton of the building fairly rapidly, especially if you
Reciprocating saw ½" plywood
work with a helper or two and use a pneumatic nail
gun for fastening and a power miter saw for cutting. Level Construction adhesive
Assembling walls isn’t a complicated process. In fact,
if you set aside a full day for the job, you’ll probably
have all the walls assembled and standing on the slab 50-foot tape measure, string line, and a framing
before sundown—maybe even sooner. hammer or pneumatic framing nailer.
We’ll use fundamental stick-framing techniques As you lay out each wall section, carefully inspect
and 2 × 4s to assemble the walls of this garage. In the studs and top and bottom plates to make sure
terms of the tools you need, be sure to have a circular they’re straight and free of large splits, knots, or other
saw or power miter saw on hand with a quality defects. Separate your lesser-quality lumber for use as
(carbide-tipped) crosscutting or combination blade wall braces or shorter pieces of blocking. If you end up
installed. You also need a framing square, speed with a lot of bad studs, call your supplier and request
square, or combination square; a long level, a 25- or a better supply.
Raising the garage walls is an exciting time in your project, as the structure begins to emerge rapidly with relatively little effort.

DTP: LY Page: 26
TIPS FOR FRAMING
The best hand-nailing technique for joining framing members depends on whether you assemble the framed wall and then
raise it, or you add boards one at a time in their final position. If you’re assembling the wall on the floor or ground, endnail
the studs to the plates whenever you can (left sample). Endnailed joints, usually made with 10d common nails, are strong
and fast to make. To double up wall studs or headers, facenail the parts (right sample) with 8d common nails. Facenailing
is also used for attaching jack studs to king studs. To fasten a vertical stud to a top or sole plate that is already in place,
toenailing (middle sample) is your best option.
A pneumatic framing nailer makes fast work of frame Measure the diagonal distances once you have assembled
carpentry. Typical collated strips have nails with diameters each wall. The distances between opposite corners will be
roughly equivalent to an 8d nail and varying in length between equal when the walls are square.
23⁄8" and 21⁄2". Framing nailers can be relatively expensive but
are also available for rent at larger rental centers.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 27
How to Frame a Garage
1 2
C
Prepare the sole plates. Select straight pressure-treated Drill guide holes for J-bolts. Make a tick mark on the J-bolt n
lumber for the wall sole plates and cut them to length. Position layout marks 1¾" in from the outside edge of the bottom wall m
the bottom plates on the slab and up against the J-bolts. plates to determine where to drill the J-bolt through-holes. l
Follow your plans to determine which walls run to the edges Drill through the bottom plate at each hole location with a 5⁄8" a
of the slab (called through walls) and which butt into the other or ¾" spade bit to allow some room for adjusting the plate on d
walls (called butt walls). Use a combination square and pencil the slab. Slip a backer board beneath the workpiece before g
to extend a line across the bottom plate at each J-bolt location. finishing the hole.
3 4
Butt wall plates
Through wall plates
Make plates for the through walls: Cut a cap plate for the first Make plates for butt walls: For laying out the stud spacing on
wall so its length matches the sole plate. Stand both plates on butt walls, the end studs will be aligned with the ends of the
edge and line up the ends. If the first wall is a through wall, top and bottom plates. Mark the second stud 15¼" from the
make marks at 1½" and 3" to indicate the end stud and extra plate ends, and step off the rest of the studs at 16" on center.
corner stud. Mark the next stud at 15¼" according to your Extend the lines across both wall plates and draw Xs to the
stud layout. Step off the remaining studs at 16" on center. right of your stud marks. A
Mark double studs at the opposite end of the wall. Draw Xs 2
to the side of each of these marks to designate on which side s
of the marks the studs should go. Extend these stud layout b
marks across both edges of the cap and sole plates. b

DTP: LY Page: 28
5 6
Cut wall studs to length. Select the number of studs you’ll Assemble the back wall. Position the marked wall plates about
need to build the first wall, and sight down their edges to 8' apart with the stud markings facing up. Lay out the studs
make sure they’re straight. Inspect for deep end checks or between the plates, and start by nailing the bottom plate to
loose knots (a check is a lengthwise separation of the wood; the wall studs with pairs of 16d galvanized common nails or
an end check is one occurring on an end of a piece). Set pneumatic framing nails. Make sure the edges of the studs and
defective studs aside for use as blocking. For the single plates are flush and the studs line up with their layout marks on
garage shown here, cut the studs to 7', 85⁄8" (925⁄8"). the plate. Drive two nails through the plate into the stud ends to
secure them. Nail the top plate to the studs the same way.
Blocking stud
Blocking
7 8 Blocking
Add end blocking for through wall. Cut three 12" lengths of Nail blocking stud in place. Butt the second stud against the
2 × 4s to serve as blocking between the end and second blocking, and nail the top and bottom plates to it. Drive more
studs on through walls. Space the blocking evenly top to nails through the second stud and into the blocking.
bottom along the inside face of the end studs. Nail the
blocking in place. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 29
9
Square up the wall. Check the wall for squareness by measuring from corner to corner and comparing the diagonals (see page S
27). If the measurements are not equal, push the longer-dimension corners inward as needed until the diagonals are the same. i
t
t
a
10 A
i
Install temporary bracing. Once the wall is square, install a temporary 1 × 4 brace across the wall plates and studs to stabilize the g
wall and keep it square. Use deck screws or 8d nails to tack the brace diagonally across the wall, driving two fasteners into the
top and bottom plates and one nail into every other stud. Leave these braces in place until the walls are ready to be sheathed.

DTP: LY Page: 30
Temporary brace
11
Set up the back wall. Before standing the first wall up, nail a temporary brace to each end stud to hold the wall in position after
it is raised. Drive one 16d nail through the brace and into the end stud about 7' up from the bottom plate to act as a pivot. Tip
the wall up and onto the J-bolts with the aid of a helper. Swing the end braces out into the yard, and attach them to stakes in
the ground. Check the wall for plumb with a long level held against the studs before fixing the braces to the stakes. Erect any
adjoining walls that do not have window or door openings.
12 13
Anchor the wall plates. Use a hammer to tap the bottom plate Mark window and door openings. For walls with windows or a
into final position on the slab, and attach it to the J-bolts with service door, mark the positions of king and jack studs when
e galvanized washers and nuts. you are laying out the top and bottom plates. Identify these
studs with a K or J instead of an X to keep them clear. Mark
the cripple studs with a C as well. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 31
14 15
2×8 2×8
1
⁄2" plywood
I
f
b
r
Frame window and door openings. Measure and cut the jack Make the headers. The header seen here is assembled from
d
studs to length following your garage plans. For either window doubled-up 2 × 8 lumber sandwiched around a piece of 1⁄2"
l
or door jack studs, make the jack stud length equal to the plywood sized to match. Fasten the header pieces together
t
height of the rough opening minus 11⁄2" for the bottom plate with wavy beads of construction adhesive and 16d nails
t
(door framing) or 3" for a double rough sill (window framing). spaced every 12". Make sure the ends and edges are aligned.
c
Facenail the jack studs to the king studs with 10d common Drive the nails at a slight angle to keep them from protruding,
t
nails spaced every 12". and nail from both sides of the header.
w
16 17
Install the headers. Set the headers in position on top of the Install cripple studs above. First, cut the cripple studs to fit
jack studs and drive 16d nails through the king studs and between the header and the wall’s top plate, and then toenail R
into the ends of the header to fasten it in place. Use six nails them in place with three 8d nails on each end. Drive two a
(three per end) for 2 × 8 headers. nails through one face and one nail through the center of the a
opposite face. t

DTP: LY Page: 32
18
Install cripple studs below. When framing
for a window, measure down from the
bottom edge of the header to position the
rough sill and establish the rough opening
dimensions. Cut two rough sill pieces to
length from 2 × 4s and facenail them
19
together with 10d nails. Toenail the sill to
the jack studs with 16d nails. Cut and nail Join wall sections. For long walls, your garage plans may require you to build the
cripple studs between the rough sill and wall in two sections and nail these together before erecting the wall. Facenail
the wall’s bottom plate to complete the the wall sections with pairs of 8d nails spaced every 12" along the adjacent
window framing. end-wall studs.
20
Raise window/door wall. You’ll need three or four helpers to tilt the heavy wall up and into position on the slab. Adjust the wall
as needed so it butts against the short wall and lines up properly on the slab. Check the wall for plumb along several studs,
and attach a temporary staked brace to the unsupported end. Install washers and nuts on the J-bolts to fasten
the wall to the slab. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 33
Nail walls together. Drive 16d nails through the end stud of
the butted wall into the end studs and blocking of the through
wall. Space these nails every 12" along the length of the walls. 22
Prior to nailing the second long wall, you can remove the
temporary brace and stake that hold the back wall in position.
21
2 × 12
L
m
2 × 12 1
⁄2" plywood t
f
Assemble the garage door wall. Follow the instructions in your t
garage plans to assemble the front wall and the sectional w
garage door rough framing. Sectional garage doors typically p
have a doubled-up 2 × 12 header sandwiching a piece of o
½"-thick plywood. Build the header just as you would a
window or service door header. The header will be supported
by double jack studs. This wall may or may not have a
continuous top wall plate and cripple studs above the header,
depending on the height of your garage walls.
23 24
Test walls for flatness. Check the long

walls for bowing by tacking a scrap block
of 2 × 4 at the top outside corner of each F
wall. Drive another nail partially into these o
Position the front wall. Remove temporary braces and stakes supporting the blocks, and then string a mason’s line l
front and side walls, then tip the front wall up and into position against the side between the nails. Pull the line taut, and w
walls. Line up the ends of the side walls with the front wall, and nail the walls measure the distance between the string
together through the end studs with 16d nails. Install washers and nuts on the and the wall’s top plate. The distance N
front wall J-bolts. should be 1½" all along the wall. m

DTP: LY Page: 34
Through wall
25 26
Butt wall
Lock the walls together. Cut top plates to length from 2 × 4s to Cut out the threshold. Cut away the bottom plate from the
make tie plates. Make the through-wall tie plates 7" shorter than rough opening of the service door with a reciprocating saw
the through-wall top plate 3½" on each side. Cut the tie plates with the blade installed upside down. Make these cuts flush
for butted walls 7" longer than the butt-wall top plate. This way, with the edge of the jack studs so the door jamb will fit
the double top plates on butted walls will overlap the through- properly in the opening.
wall top plates, locking the walls together. Facenail all four tie
plates to the wall top plates with 10d nails. Drive two nails in the
overlapped corners, then single nails every 16" along the plates.
27
Frame the overhead door opening. Facenail a 2 × 6 around each side and the top to frame the sectional garage door rough
opening on the inside face of the front wall. These boards form blocking for installing the garage door and garage door opener
later. Position the blocking flush with the faces of the jack studs and the bottom edge of the door header. Fasten the blocking
with 10d nails. Wait until you are preparing to install the door to install trimboards and stop molding.
NOTE: If you have already purchased your sectional garage door, check the door opening requirements in the installation
manual and compare them to these instructions before proceeding with this step.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 35
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & Hammer
eye protection (or pneumatic nailer)
Carpenter’s pencil Long level
Speed square Lumber (2 × 4, 2 × 6,
Installing Roof Framing Tape measure

Miter saw
2 × 8)
Rafter ties
Framing square Galvanized common nails
(10d, 16d)
Ladders
T his garage has a simple gable-style roof consisting
of only two roof planes with flat gable end walls.
For that reason, we’ll frame the roof using rafters as the
Jigsaw
Circular saw
Collar ties
principal structural members. Rafters extend from the

wall top plates and meet at a ridgeboard at the roof ’s
peak. They’re a traditional form of roof construction built” style. For a garage this small, 2 × 6s spaced 24" on
on both simple and complex roof designs, and rafters center are sufficiently strong to serve as rafter boards,
are also a more economical option than custom- unless your area experiences extreme snow loads.
built trusses. If you’re unfamiliar with roof framing, Because the garage’s roof ridge runs from front to back,
constructing this rafter roof will be an excellent rafters are installed perpendicular to the length of
opportunity to learn some important basic skills. the building. A third important component of rafter
T
Building the roof frame is a departure from wall framing—horizontal collar or rafter ties—span the
framing because you can’t nail whole sections of the width of the structure and can function as ceiling
roof together at once and set them in place. Instead, joists. Collar ties help keep the walls from spreading
you’ll cut all the rafters to size and shape to match the apart by locking several pairs of rafters together into
slope of the roof, and then install them in pairs “stick triangulated frames, similar to a roof truss.
A system of rafters, ridgeboard, and collar ties creates the framework for this garage’s simple gable-style roof. Rafters are a
traditional, sturdy, and economical option for this project, but custom-built trusses are another viable option.

DTP: LY Page: 36
8'-13⁄4"
1 3 ⁄4 " 8'-0"
scia
ge
or rid
or fa
Cut f
Cut f
3 1⁄2"
Cut f
or pl
1 1⁄8"
a te
n
7 7⁄ 8 " 3 3⁄ 8"
This template may be used as a guide for laying out the birdsmouth cuts on the rafter ends for the garage project seen here.
USING A SPEED SQUARE

A speed square is a handy tool for marking angled cuts
using the degree of the cut or the roof slope. Set the
square flange against the board edge and align the pivot
point with the top of the cut. Pivot the square until the
board edge is aligned with the desired degree marking
or the rise of the roof slope, indicated in the row of
common numbers. Mark along the right-angle edge of
the square.
Pivot point
Common markings
Metal rafter ties add strength to the connection between the

Degree markings rafter and the top plate of your garage walls. They also help
with alignment and minimize any splintering of the rafter
caused by toenailing. In some areas of the country where
hurricanes and tornadoes are common, metal rafter ties are
required by local codes.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 37
How to Install Roof Framing
Make a pair of pattern rafters. Choose two straight 2 × 6s to create a full-size pattern rafter for each leg of a rafter pair. Mark C
a cutting line on one end of each pattern with the correct angle formed with the ridgeboard. Refer to your garage plans to c
determine the correct roof pitch (which determines the cutting angle). Then, measure from the top of the ridge angle along the S
rafter to determine its overall length and draw a second reference line for the plumb cut at the eave end. Make the plumb cuts p
with a power miter saw (best choice) or a circular saw. Lay out and cut the birdsmouths on the pattern rafters, using a speed f
square (page 37). Use a framing square to create the level and plumb lines that form the birdsmouth cuts. The birdsmouth c
will enable the roof rafters to rest on the wall double top plates at the correct roof pitch. Use the pattern rafters as templates for
marking the rest of the rafters.
Check the fit.

Set your pattern
rafters in position 2 Spacer block
on top of the side
walls with a 2 × 8
spacer block
tacked between
them to represent
the ridgeboard.
You’ll know you
have a good fit
if the top angled
ridge cuts meet
the ridgeboard
flush and the
birdsmouth cuts
sit flush on the
wall plates. Have
a helper position
and check the
fit of these parts.
Adjust the angles,
if necessary, to I
improve the fit of o
the parts. c
b

DTP: LY Page: 38
3 4
Cut all the rafters. Use the pattern rafter to trace the plumb Plot the rafter locations. Mark the location of each rafter on
cuts and birdsmouth onto the workpieces for all of the rafters. the doubled top plates. The rafters begin at the ends of the
Set the cutting angle on your power miter saw to match the walls, and the intermediate rafters should line up over the wall
plumb cut and cut each rafter at the cutting lines. Then, studs that are spaced 16" on center. Use a speed square to
finish the rafters by cutting the birdsmouths with a jigsaw, or extend a rafter layout line up from each wall stud layout line
circular saw and handsaw. to the top plate. Mark an X next to the line to indicate which
side of the line the rafter should go. Mark the position of all
the rafters.
5 6
Install rafter ties. If building codes in your area require it, Mark the ridgeboard. Select a straight, flat 2 × 8 for the
or if you simply want a stronger structure, nail metal rafter ridgeboard. It should be several feet longer than the roof
connector plates (often called rafter ties) to the wall top plates length. Lay the board face-down over the tops of the end
before installing the rafters. walls and flush against a side wall. Adjust the ridgeboard so it
overhangs the end walls evenly. Use a square to transfer the
rafter layout lines and X marks from the wall double top plate
to the ridgeboard. Then, flip the ridgeboard over and mark
the rafter locations on the opposite face. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 39
Install the ridgeboard. To
make it easier to begin
the rafter installation, nail 7
the first two end rafters
to the ridgeboard before
lifting them into place
on the walls. Facenail
the ridgeboard to one
end rafter through the
top plumb cut with three
16d nails. Make sure the
rafter is properly lined
up with the ridgeboard
layout line. Toenail
the opposite rafter to
the ridgeboard. Then,
with several helpers
lift the end rafters and
ridgeboard into position
on the wall plates. Have
a helper hold up the
opposite end of the I
ridgeboard while you p
toenail the end rafters to C
the wall plates. s
c
n
t
r
8 9
Install a temporary brace. Toenail a temporary 2 × 4 brace Install the rest of the rafters. With the ridgeboard braced and I
vertically to the opposite end wall. Choose a brace longer leveled, fit and install the rest of the rafters, fastening them t
than the roof will be high. Rest the ridgeboard against the with 16d nails. Toenail the rafters to the metal rafter ties at r
brace and adjust it until it is level. Use 10d nails to nail the birdsmouths, and either facenail or toenail the rafters to the r
ridgeboard temporarily to the brace to hold it in position. ridgeboard, depending on which rafter you are installing for s
each pair. Check the ridgeboard periodically for level as you d
work. When you reach the opposite end of the roof, remove e
the temporary ridge brace and install the end rafters. c

DTP: LY Page: 40
10 11 12
Install collar ties. Follow your garage Install gable top plates. On the gable Lay out and install gable studs. These
plans to lay out and cut collar ties to size. ends of the roof, you’ll need to install should be positioned by holding a
Collar ties prevent the garage walls from additional studs under the rafters long level against the wall studs and
spreading apart under roof loads. Angle- to provide nailing surfaces for wall transferring layout lines to the edges of
cut the top ends of each collar tie if sheathing. Start by cutting a pair of the gable top plates. Plan for a gable
necessary to match the roof slope. Install 2 × 4 gable wall top plates that will stud to line up over each wall stud. Cut
the collar ties by facenailing them to the extend from the sides of the ridgeboard the gable studs to fit and toenail them
rafters with three 10d nails at each end. down to the wall double top plates. to the gable and wall top plates.
13 14
Install lookouts. Follow your plans to lay out the locations of Complete the overhang. Lay out and cut the gable overhang
the lookout blocking that will form gable overhangs on the rafters to size and shape using your pattern rafter as
roof. Cut the blocking to size, and facenail through the end a template.
rafters to install it to the outside faces of the end rafters. Make
sure the top edges of the blocking and rafters are flush before NOTE: Gable end rafters do not have birdsmouths. Nail
driving the nails. Also mark the gable overhang length on these rafters to the lookout blocking and ridgeboard to
each end of the ridgeboard, and cut it to final length with a complete the roof framing.
circular saw or handsaw.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 41
OPTION: ROOF TRUSSES
W
Custom-made roof trusses save time and practically guarantee that your roof will be square and strong. They add
considerably to the project cost, however, and must be ordered well in advance.
Trusses are engineered roof support members that can be used instead of hand-cut rafters to support your roof. You can
build them yourself or you can order them premade to match your building size and preferred roof pitch. A truss has a
triangular shape with two matching top chords that meet a horizontal bottom chord. Diagonal crossbracing, called webs,
are fitted between the top chords and the bottom chord. Typically, the joints between chords and web members are
reinforced with metal or plywood gusset plates.
Trusses are designed so the ends of the bottom chord rest on the top plates of the side walls. Consequently, you don’t
have to cut tricky birdsmouths or rafter angles—you simply fasten the bottom chord by toenailing or using metal hangers.
The relative ease that can be installed may make up for the higher costs compared to rafters. But unless your garage is
very small, you will likely need to rent a crane, forklift, or other mechanical assistant to raise the trusses into position.
Most professional garage contractors employ trusses because they go up quickly and don’t require complicated cutting.
There are limitations, however. If you are purchasing the truss premade, you can pretty well wager that the quality of the
lumber won’t be as high as the dimensional lumber you’d use to make rafters. The presence of the bottom chord will cut
into your open space in a garage, potentially limiting the storage options. But if you are planning to install a ceiling in your S
garage, the chords can be put to work as ceiling joists. t
i
i
A manufactured truss
ROOF TRUSSES OVERVIEW
consists of two top
chords and a lower
chord with web Web member Top chord
members installed
between chords for
strength. The joints
are usually reinforced
with metal or plywood
gussets. Unlike rafter
roofs, a truss roof does
not have a ridgepole. Bottom chord Gusset plate

DTP: LY Page: 42
Working with Trusses
Use long 2 × 4 braces clamped to the
end wall to temporarily clamp or tack
the end truss in position. If the truss is
sized correctly, there should be no need
to adjust it side to side, but you’ll need
to make sure it is flush with the end wall
and plumb before you nail it into place.
Toenail trusses to wall plates with 16d nails. Typically, the

two end trusses are installed first and then a mason’s line
is stretched between the tails of the top chords to use as an
alignment reference. A temporary brace with truss spacing
marked to match the wall plates is installed as you go to
stabilize the trusses and create the correct spacing. Remove
the brace before installing the roof decking.
Secure the trusses to the walls with metal truss ties or rafter
ties. These are required in high-wind areas but are a good
idea anywhere because they strengthen the roof and help
in alignment.
DOS & DON’TS FOR WORKING WITH TRUSSES

• DO set trusses on blocking for their protection • DO NOT cut trusses for any reason.
when storing.
• DO NOT exceed the span spacing for which the truss
• DO have plenty of help when it’s time to raise the trusses. is rated.
• DO provide your truss dealer with an accurate plan • DO NOT walk on trusses if they are being stored
drawing of your garage. lying flat.
• DO use temporary braces to ensure that trusses stay • DO NOT install trusses in high winds.
plumb during installation.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 43
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & eye protection Cap nails
S
Chalk line Utility knife u
Tape measure OSB sheathing S
b
Marker Common nails (6d) a
Sheathing Walls Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)

Drill & bits
Housewrap
Housewrap tape
S
s
Reciprocating saw Staple gun
O nce the garage walls are framed and erected,

all exterior wall surfaces, including the angled
areas up the gable walls, should be covered with a
around the building so you can use the top edge as a
handy ledger for resting and nailing off the top course.
layer of oriented strand board (OSB) or CDX plywood To speed the process along, sheathe right over service
sheathing. Wall sheathing serves two basic purposes: door and window openings, and then cut these
it strengthens the wall framing by locking the studs to openings again once all the sheathing is in place.
a stiff outer “skin,” and it provides a uniform backing Even exterior-rated sheathing isn’t immune to
for nailing the siding and trim in place. The minimum the effects of wind-driven rain, especially around
sheathing thickness for 16-inch on center stud walls is nail holes. It’s good practice to cover sheathing with
3
⁄8 inch, and ½-inch material is even better. 15-pound building paper or housewrap. Install it
Provided you’ve framed your garage walls correctly, horizontally, working from the bottom of the walls
you should be able to install sheathing in full 4 × 8 up and overlapping the seams by at least 2 inches.
sheets because the stud spacing will enable the sheets If you use housewrap, be sure to tape all seams with
to be nailed along the edges and ends evenly. You can housewrap tape recommended for the brand of wrap
hang sheathing horizontally or vertically, but generally you are using. Housewrap will begin to degrade from
the horizontal approach makes large sheets easier to sunlight in just a few weeks, so be sure to get your
manage. Install a bottom coarse of sheathing first all permanent siding on promptly.
I
O
t
t
t
Wall sheathing stiffens building wall framing and creates a uniform backing for siding and trim. A layer of building paper or t
housewrap seals the sheathing from moisture infiltration. c

DTP: LY Page: 44
How to Install Wall Sheathing
Snap a layout line. Use a chalk line to create a level line 47"
up the walls, measured from the bottom of the bottom plate.
Snap a line the full length of each wall. At this height, the
bottom course of sheathing will cover the bottom wall plate
and overlap the foundation by 1", minimizing water infiltration.
Several inches of slab should still be visible after the
sheathing is installed. Sheathing should not contact the soil.
2
Install the first sheet. Position the first full sheet of OSB
sheathing in one corner so the top edge lines up with the chalk
line. One end of the sheet should align with the edge of the
framed wall and the other should fall midway across a stud.
Attach the sheathing with 6d common nails. Space the nails
every 6" around the perimeter and every 12" at the intermediate
studs. Before nailing, snap chalk lines across the sheet to show
the centerlines of every wall stud. Install all first-course panels.
NOTE: Go ahead and sheath over door and window openings.

You can cut out the sheathing later.
Door opening
3 4
Install the second course. Begin this course with a half sheet of Mark the door and window openings. Drill through the
OSB to establish a staggered pattern. Snap chalk lines across sheathing at all corners of the door and window openings
this sheet, too, to show nailing locations of studs. If necessary, (you can drive nails if you prefer), and then connect the holes
trim the second-course panels so the tops are flush with the (or nails) with straight cutting lines.
top edges of the wall-cap plate. Maintain a gap of 1⁄8" between
the first and second course panels to allow for expansion and
contraction (6d nails can be used as spacers between panels). (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 45
Door opening
5 6
Cut out the door and window openings, using a reciprocating Sheath the next wall frame. The panels for the adjoining wall
saw. Cut carefully so the sheathing does not extend into should overlap the ends of the panels on the first wall without
the opening. extending beyond them. Complete installing full panels on all A
four walls. h
7 8
Install sheathing in gable areas. After the first courses are Begin installing housewrap. Begin at the bottom courses if
installed on the walls with roof gables, lay out and cut second- the product you’re using is not wide enough to cover a wall in
course panels that follow the eave line. Mark stud locations one piece. C
and attach these gable sheathing panels with 6d nails, h
maintaining 1⁄8" gaps between panels. NOTE: Housewrap is a one-way permeable fabric that helps d
keep moisture from entering the structure from the exterior. d
Installing it makes sense only if you are planning to add w
finished interior walls in the garage.

DTP: LY Page: 46
9 10
Attach the housewrap with housewrap nails. Drive at least three Finish installing the housewrap. All seams should overlap by at
housewrap nails spaced evenly along each wall stud. least 6 to 12", with horizontal seams overlapping from above.
11 12
Cut out windows and doors. Make a long X cut in the Tape the seams. To seal the housewrap, apply housewrap tape
housewrap, connecting corners diagonally at window and along all horizontal and vertical seams.
door openings. Use a utility knife to make the cut. Staple
down the extra housewrap in the window rough opening so it NOTE: Housewrap is not rated for long-term exposure to the
wraps around the jack studs, header, and rough sill. sun, so do not wait more than a few weeks after installing it
before siding the garage.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 47
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & eye protection
Miter saw
Hammer (or pneumatic nailer)
Installing Fascia & Soffits Speed square

Chalk line
Circular saw
F ascia and soffits form transitions from your garage’s roof to the wall Aviation snips
siding. Fascia consists of 1× pine or cedar boards, sometimes called Caulk gun
subfascia, that cover the ends of the rafters at the roof eaves to keep 1 × 8 lumber
weather and pests out. It also serves as an attachment surface for gutters.
Common nails (10d, 16d)
The faces of the gable end rafters are also covered with fascia boards to
continue the roof trim pattern all around the building. Generally, fascia Galvanized casing nails (8d)
boards are installed before the roof sheathing to ensure that the roof 2 × 2 lumber (if needed)
sheathing will overlap them once it’s in place. You can paint your garage 2 × 6 scrap lumber
fascia to protect it, or cover it with manufactured aluminum fascia that Vented aluminum soffit panels
matches the soffit color. with mounting strips
A soffit extends from the fascia to the wall. It encloses the bays
between the rafters or trusses and provides an important means of Rolled aluminum flashing with
ventilation beneath the roof deck. Sometimes a soffit is made of exterior color-matched nails
plywood with vents cut into it, but the soffit we show here is ventilated Fascia covers
aluminum strips, available in a range of colors to match aluminum or Color-matched caulk C
vinyl siding. Install your garage soffit before hanging the siding so you can Siding nails (
nail it directly to the wall sheathing. b
I
t
8
f
s
s
i
Fascia and soffits enclose roof rafters to keep weather and pests out while providing a means of roof ventilation and a graceful r
transition from the roof to the walls. a

DTP: LY Page: 48
How to Install Fascia & Soffits
E
A
Components of the cornice system built here include: (A) End rafters, (B) 2× lookout blocking, (C) Gable overhang rafters,
(D) Wall sheathing, (E) 1 × 8 subfascia (eaves), (F) 2× soffit blocking-eaves (continuous strip along wall), (G) 2× gable rafter
blocking, (H) 2× cornice blocking.
1 2
Install the subfascia. Cut pieces of 1 × 8 to make subfascia strips Make vertical joints. If your subfascia or fascia boards are
that fit into the fascia area. Attach them to the rafter tails with not long enough to cover a wall in one piece, use overlapping
8d galvanized casing nails. The ends of the subfascia should be scarf joints to join the ends. Miter cut the ends of the scarf
flush with the faces of the gable overhang rafters. Use a speed joint parts so they overlap and fall over a rafter tail. Drive
square held against the top edges of the rafters to adjust the three 8d nails through both joint parts to secure them to
subfascia up or down until the square meets it halfway through the rafter.
its thickness. This will allow the roof sheathing to overhang the
rafter tails for proper drainage. Once the subfascia is properly
adjusted, drive three nails per rafter tail to secure it. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 49
OPTION: If you will be installing wood soffit panels,
3
install 2 × 2 soffit blocking. (The garage seen here will
be equipped with metal soffits that do not need backer Add cornice filler pieces. Measure and cut triangular blocking
blocking.) The blocking should be positioned so the I
to fit underneath the gable end rafter tails. Lay out the
bottom edge is flush with the soffit groove or backer in g
blocking so it forms a plumb bottom to the rafter tails. Toenail
the fascia. Cut the soffit blocking so it extends beyond the t
this blocking to the rafters. If soffit blocking is present, screw
ends of the walls to create a nailing surface for any filler p
or nail the cornice blocking to the end of the soffit blocking.
pieces that will be installed with the cornice. Nail the soffit t
Lay out, cut, and nail 1× subfascia boards to cover the gable
blocking to the wall studs with 10d nails, one nail per stud. rafters and the ends of the ridgeboard. Miter cut the ends of
the subfascia where they meet at the roof ridge.
4 5
Cornice blocking
Mounting strips
I
b
Install cornice blocking. Cut and fit short lengths of 2 × 6 Enclose the eaves. Cut strips of vented aluminum soffit to t
scrap between the gable and end rafters and the wall to box enclose the eaves of the roof. Hang mounting strips for the t
in the cornice. Drive 16d nails through the subfascia and end soffit panels on the garage walls (if you did not install backer s
rafters to attach the blocking. boards—see OPTION, above). Attach the free edges of the s
soffit to the bottom of the subfascia with siding nails. The t
soffit panels should stop flush with the subfascia. t

DTP: LY Page: 50
6 7
Install soffit in the gables. Lay out and snap chalk lines on the Enclose the cornices. Cut and bend pieces of rolled aluminum
gable walls for installing soffit hanger strips, and then mount flashing to fit over the roof cornices and cover the blocking.
the hanger strips (or the blocking). Cut, fit, and nail the soffit Nail this flashing to the cornices with color-matched siding
panel strips to the subfascia and soffit blocking to close up nails. Wrap this flashing around the eave subfascia boards by
the rake ends of the roof. 1 to 2" so you can install metal fascia to overlap it.
8 9
Install fascia covers. Measure the width of the subfascia Finish installing fascia covers. Install the fascia covers on
boards, and cut fascia covers to fit. Fit the fascia in place over the gable ends, stopping just short of the cornices. At the
the subfascia boards so the bottom lip overlaps the soffits. Nail cornices, bend a piece of fascia cover to turn the corner, and
through the lip every 16" into the subfascia with color-matched trim the end so it will make a straight vertical seam. Caulk the
siding nails. Fasten the top of the fascia within 1⁄2" of the cut edge seam with caulk tinted to match your fascia cover color.
so the nail heads will be covered by drip edge molding later. At
the cornice, bend the last piece of fascia cover at a right angle to
turn the corner (make relief cuts with aviation snips first).

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DTP: LY Page: 51
Building the Roof TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & Roofing hammer
eye protection Framing square
N ow that your garage fascia and soffits are
installed, it’s time to sheathe the roof deck, install
roofing, and add a ridge vent (optional). The purpose
Tape measure
Hammer
½" CDX or OSB
sheathing panels
of roof sheathing is obvious: it reinforces the rafters to (or pneumatic nailer) Box nails (8d)
help stiffen the roof, and it provides a flat, continuous Circular saw Metal drip edge
surface for attaching the roofing. As with wall Miter saw Roofing nails
sheathing, you can use either oriented strand board Aviation snips
(OSB) or CDX plywood for roof sheathing, but make Building paper (15# or 30#)
sure it’s at least ½ inch thick to carry the combined Stapler Shingles
weight of the roofing material and snow loads (if Utility knife Continuous ridge vent
applicable). If you accurately placed your rafters at Chalk line (optional)
the roof framing stage, the sheathing should install
quickly, with minimal waste, and all seams should fall
at the rafter locations. Stagger the joints from one row the roof perimeter and then proceed with the roof
of sheathing to the next. covering. We used asphalt shingles for this project,
After constructing the roof deck, install a layer of but feel free to use roofing material to match your
15# or 30# roofing felt (also called building paper). home’s roof—cedar shingles, metal roofing, or even
Roofing felt protects the sheathing and serves as clay tiles are other good options.
an important second line of defense against leaks Finally, you can provide excellent ventilation by
beneath the roofing. Roll out and nail the felt topping off your garage roof with a continuous ridge
horizontally, starting at the eaves and overlapping the vent. A ridge vent combined with vented soffits allows
felt as you work your way up to the peak. Once the felt convection to draw cool air in through the eave or
is in place, you can install a metal drip edge around gable vents and exhaust hot air out at the roof peak.
A top-notch garage roof

includes roof deck
sheathing, drip edge,
roofing felt, shingles, and
a continuous ridge vent.
When properly installed,
your garage roof should
last as long as your
house roof.

DTP: LY Page: 52
ASPHALT SHINGLES
3-tab
25-year rating Architectural shingles
4-tab
Shadow-line shingles
Asphalt shingles are usually rated by lifespan, with 20-, 25-, and 40-year ratings the most common (although some
now claim to be 50-year shingles). Functionally, these ratings should be used for comparison purposes only. In fact, the
average lifespan of an asphalt shingle roof in the United States is 8 to 10 years.
The term multitab shingle refers to any asphalt shingle manufactured with stamped cutouts to mimic the shapes of slate
tile or wood shakes. Multitab cutouts are made and installed in single thickness 3' strips, so these tabbed reveals show
up. The ubiquitous term for them is three‑tab, but two- and four-tab styles are also available. Generally, the tabs are
spaced evenly along each sheet of shingle to provide a uniform appearance and a stepped, brick-laid pattern on the roof.
However, some manufacturers also offer styles with shaped corners or randomly spaced tabs trimmed to different heights
for a more unique look.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 53
How to Prepare the Roof Deck
1 2
Gable subfascia
Eave subfascia
I
l
e
b
Install the first course of roof decking. Start sheathing the roof Install the second row of decking. Start with a half sheet
S
at one of the lower corners with ½" CDX plywood or oriented (approximately) to stagger the vertical gaps between rows.
u
strand board (OSB) that’s rated for sheathing. Where possible, Make sure the end of the half sheet falls midway along a
use a full 8'-long sheet or a half sheet with the seam still falling rafter. Continue to sheathe the roof up to the ridge, but stop
midway across a rafter or truss. Align the sheet so it overlaps nailing within 6" of the ridge. This area will be cut away to
the gable subfascia and touches the eave subfascia. Fasten the install a continuous ridge vent later. Add decking to the other
sheet to the rafters with 8d box nails spaced every 6" along side of the roof up to the ridge.
the edges and 12" along the intermediate rafters. Lay out
and install the rest of the sheathing to complete the first row,
spacing the sheets 1⁄8" apart to allow for expansion.
3 4
Install drip edge on eaves. Cut a 45° miter at the end of a Begin installing building paper. Snap a chalk line across the roof
piece of drip edge flashing and position it along one eave sheathing 355⁄8" up from the roof edge. At this location, the first M
edge of the roof. The mitered end should be positioned to row of building paper will overhang the drip edge by 3⁄8". Roll out o
form a miter joint with the drip edge that will be installed on 15# or 30# building paper along the eaves with the top edge aligned a
the rake edge after the building paper is laid. Attach the drip with the chalk line. Staple it to the sheathing every 12" along the t
edge with roofing nails driven every 12". Install drip edge up edges and one staple per sq. ft. in the field area. Trim the gable s
to the ridge, overlapping any butt joints by 2". Flash both ends of the paper flush with the edges of the sheathing. If you a
eave edges. live in a cold climate and plan to heat your garage, install self-
adhesive ice-guard membrane for the first two courses.

DTP: LY Page: 54
5 6
Install the second underlayment course. Snap another chalk Install drip edge on rakes. Cut a 45° miter at the end of the
line across the first row of underlayment, 32" up from the first piece of drip edge, and install it along the rake edge of
eaves. Roll out the second row of building paper with the the roof, covering the underlayment. Fit the mitered end over
bottom edge following the chalk line to create a 4" overlap. the eave’s drip edge, overlapping the pieces by 2". The gable
Staple it in place. Cover the entire roof up to the ridge with drip edge should be on top. Nail the drip edge all the way to
underlayment, overlapping each row by 4". the peak, and then repeat for the other three rake edges.
How to Install Shingles
1 2
Mark starting lines. Snap a chalk line for the starter course Install the starter course. Trim off one half of an end tab on
on each roof deck. The lines should be created all the way a shingle. Position the shingle upside down so the tabs are
across the roof deck, 11½" up from the eave edge (½" less aligned with the chalk line and the half tab is flush against
than the height of the shingle) to mark the top edge of the the rake edge of the roof. Drive roofing nails near each end,
starter course of shingles for each roof deck. This will result in 1" down from each slot between the tabs. Continue the
a ½" shingle overhang for standard 12" three-tab shingles. row with full shingles nailed upside down to complete the
starter course. Trim the last shingle flush with the opposite
rake edge. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 55
3 4
Install the first full course. Apply the first full course of Create a vertical reference line. Snap a chalk line from the F
shingles over the starter course with the tabs pointing down. eave’s edge to the ridge to create a vertical line to align the c
Start from the same corner you began the starter course. shingles. Choose a spot close to the center of the roof, located m
Place the first shingle so it overhangs the rake edge by 3⁄8" and so the chalk line passes through a slot or a shingle edge on u
the eaves by ½". The top edge of the first course should align the first full shingle course. Use a framing square to establish n
with the top of the starter course. a line perpendicular to the eave’s edge.
Set shingle pattern. If you are

installing standard three-tab
shingles, use the vertical 5
reference line to establish
a shingle pattern with slots
that are offset by 6" in
succeeding courses. Tack
down a shingle 6" to one
side of the vertical line and
5" above the bottom edge
of the first-course shingles
to start the second row.
Tack down a shingle for the
third course 12" from the
vertical line. Begin at the
vertical line for the fourth
course. Repeat.
WORKING ON ROOFS
When working on the roof and staging heavy bundles of shingles, it’s a good idea to share the job with a helper. Set up
ladders carefully, stay well clear of overhead power lines, and work cautiously near the eaves and rake ends of the roof to
prevent accidents. Get off the roof if you are tired, overheated, or if impending bad weather threatens your safety.

DTP: LY Page: 56
6 7
Fill in shingles. Add shingles in the second through fifth Test shingle alignment regularly. After each three-course cycle,
courses, working upward from the second course and measure from the bottom edge of the top row of shingles to the
maintaining consistent reveals. Insert lower-course shingles closest layout line on the building paper, and take several of
under any upper-course shingles left partially nailed, and then these measurements along the course. If the row is slightly out
nail them down. of alignment, make incremental adjustments over the next few
courses to correct it—don’t try and get it back all in one course.
CUTTING RIDGE CAPS
8
Cut three 12"-sq. cap shingles from each three-tab Shingle up to the ridge. At the ridge, shingle up the first side of
shingle. With the back surface facing up, cut the the roof until the top of the uppermost reveal area is within 5"
shingles at the tab lines. Trim the top corners of each of the ridge (for standard three-tabs). Trim the shingles along
square with an angled cut, starting just below the seal the peak. Shingle the other side of the roof up to the peak. If
strip to avoid overlaps in the reveal area. you plan to install a continuous ridge vent, skip to page 58.
(continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 57
9 10
Install ridge cap shingles. Start by installing one shingle at one Trim shingles. Mark and trim the shingles at the rake edges
end so equal amounts hang down on each side of the ridge. of the roof. Snap a chalk line down the roof to trim neatly and
Measure this distance and snap straight chalk lines to the other end accurately. Use old aviation snips to cut the shingles. You may
of the roof, extending the lines formed by the edges of the shingles. use a utility knife with backer board instead. Let the shingles
Nail in the tapered area of each shingle so the next shingle will extend 3⁄8" beyond the rake drip edge to form an overhang. M
cover the nail head. Complete the installation of the ridge shingles. a
t
r
How to Install a Continuous Ridge Vent p
1 2
Mark cutting lines. Measure from the ridge down each roof Cut out roof sections. Using a circular saw equipped with an
the distance recommended by the ridge vent manufacturer. old blade, cut through the shingles and sheathing along the
Mark straight cutting lines at this distance on each deck, cutting lines. Be careful not to cut into the rafters. Stop both
snapping a pair of chalk lines. cuts 6 to 12" from the gable ends. Make two crosscuts up A
and over the ridge to join the long cuts on the ends. Remove a
the shingles and sheathing from the continuous ridge vent t
area. Drive additional roofing nails through the shingles and a
sheathing along the cut edges to secure the roof to the rafters.

DTP: LY Page: 58
3 4
Mark installation reference lines. Test-fit the continuous ridge Attach the ridge vent. Center the ridge vent over the opening,
at one end, measuring down from the ridge half the width of aligning the end with the rake edge of the roof. The edges
the ridge vent, and marking that distance on both ends of the of the vent should be even with the chalk lines. Drive long
roof. Join the marks with two more chalk lines to establish the (1½") roofing nails through the vent and into the roof where
position for the edges of the continuous ridge vent. indicated by the manufacturer.
5 6
Add sections. Butt new pieces of continuous ridge vent Add ridge cap shingles (see page 58, step 9). Cover the
against the pieces you have installed and nail the ends. Install ridge vent with ridge cap shingles, nailing them with two
the vent along the full length of the roof, including the end 1½" roofing nails per cap. Overlap the shingles as you would
areas with shingles still intact. on a normal ridge. Trim the end ridge cap shingle flush with
the other rake-edge shingles.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 59
Installing Windows & Service Doors
M ost garages, like the detached garage featured

here, have a service door for added safety and
accessibility. A window also makes sense for a garage,
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & Silicone caulk
bringing improved ventilation and a pleasant source eye protection Window
of ambient light. This section will show you how to
Utility knife 2" Roofing nails
install both features. If you already have experience
hanging doors and windows, you’ll find the process Caulk gun Shims
for installing them in a garage is no different from Level Casing nails (6d)
installing them in a home. However, it’s a good idea to Hammer Drip cap
review these pages to refamiliarize yourself with the
Screwdriver Expanding foam insulation
techniques you should follow to do the job correctly.
Installing doors and windows are similar 9" self-adhesive Service door
operations. First, you’ll need to seal the rough flashing tape
Lockset
openings in the walls with self-adhesive flashing Tape measure
tape to prevent moisture infiltration. Tape should
be applied from the bottom of the doorway or the
windowsill first, working up to the header and When you have the option, hang the service door
overlapping the tape to shed water. Once you’ve and window before proceeding with the siding (which
inserted the window or door in its opening, you’ll we’ll cover in the next section). That way, you’ll be
need to shim it, adjusting for level and plumb, before able to fit the siding up tight against the brickmold for
nailing the jamb framework and brickmold in place. a professional finish.
A sturdy service door

and lockset will
give your new
garage added
accessibility without
compromising
security. Installing
one is a fairly simple
project. A vinyl- or
aluminum-clad
garage window will
bring a breath of
fresh air and improve
your task lighting
when working in
the garage.

DTP: LY Page: 60
TIPS FOR SIZING & FRAMING
A B C
B
Determine the exact size of your new window or door by measuring the opening carefully. For the width (left diagram),
measure between the jack studs in three places: near the top, at the middle, and near the bottom of the opening. Use the
same procedure for the height (right diagram), measuring from the header to the sill near the left edge, at the middle, and
near the right edge of the opening. Use the smallest measurement of each dimension for ordering the unit.
Header Cripple stud

Top plate
Top plate
Jambs
Jambs
Cripple studs Header
Jack stud
Jack stud King stud
Rough sill
Sole plate
Cripple stud
King stud
Sole plate
Door opening: The structural load above the door is Window opening: The structural load above the window is
carried by cripple studs that rest on a header. The ends carried by a cripple stud resting on a header. The ends of
of the header are supported by jack studs (also known as the header are supported by jack studs and king studs that
trimmer studs) and king studs that transfer the load to the transfer the load to the sole plate and the foundation of the
sole plate and the foundation of the garage. The rough garage. The rough sill, which helps anchor the window unit
opening for a door should be 1" wider and ½" taller than but carries no structural weight, is supported by cripple
the dimensions of the door unit, including the jambs. This studs. To provide room for adjustments during installation,
extra space lets you adjust the door unit during installation. the rough opening for a window should be 1" wider and ½"
taller than the window unit, including the jambs.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 61
How to Install a Garage Window
T
c
Flash the rough sill. Apply 9"-wide self-adhesive flashing tape OPTION: You can save a step (and some material) by
d
to the rough sill to prevent moisture infiltration below the installing the flashing on the sides and top after the
window. Install the flashing tape so it wraps completely over window is installed, as seen in this skylight installation. The
the sill and extends 10 to 12" up the jack studs. Fold the rest disadvantage to doing it this way instead of flashing the
of the tape over the housewrap to create a 3" overlap. Peel off entire opening and then flashing over the window nailing
the backing and press the tape firmly in place. Install tape flanges after installation (see step 8) is that the inside faces
on the side jambs butting up to the header, and then flash of the rough frame will not be sealed against moisture.
the header.
2 3
N
Caulk the opening. Apply a 1⁄2"-wide bead of caulk around the Position the window. Set the window unit into the rough n
outside edges of the jack studs and header to seal the window opening and center it side to side. Check the sill for level. t
flange in the opening. Leave the rough sill uncaulked to allow w
any water that may penetrate the flashing to drain out.

DTP: LY Page: 62
4 5
Tack the top corners. Drive a roofing nail through each top Plumb the window. Have a helper hold the window in place from
corner hole of the top window flange to tack it in place. Do not outside while you work inside the garage. Check the window
drive the rest of the nails into the top flange yet. jamb for square by measuring from corner to corner. If the
measurements are the same, the jamb is square. Insert shims
between the side jambs and rough opening near the top corners
to hold the jambs in position. Use additional shims as needed to
bring the jamb into square. Recheck the diagonals after shimming.
s
6 7
Nail the flange. Drive 2" roofing nails through the flange Nail the jambs. Drive 6d (2") casing nails through the jambs
nailing holes and into the rough sill to secure it. Handnail and top corner shims to lock them in place. Add more shims
this flange, being careful not to damage the flange or to the centers and bottom corners of the jamb, and test the
window cladding. window action by opening and closing it. If it operates without
binding, nail through the rest of the shims. (continued)
0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_016-081.indd 63 1/18/17 12:01 PM

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 63
Flash the side flanges. Seal the side flanges with flashing
tape, starting 4 to 6" below the sill flashing and ending 4 to 6"
above the top flange. Press the tape firmly in place. 9
Install the drip cap. Cut a piece of metal drip edge to fit over
the top window jamb. This is particularly important if your
new window has an unclad wooden jamb with preinstalled
brickmold. Set the drip edge in place on the top jamb, and
secure the flange with a strip of wide flashing tape. Do not nail
it. Have the tape overlap the side flashing tape by 6".
NOTE: If you plan to trim the window with wood brickmold or

other moldings, install the drip edge above that trim instead.
10 11
F
o
t
r
a
t
Finish the installation. Cut the shim ends so they are flush Spray expanding foam insulation around the perimeter of t
with the inside of the wall using a utility knife or handsaw. the window on the interior side if you will be insulating and o
heating or cooling your garage. t

DTP: LY Page: 64
SERVICE DOOR BUYER’S TIPS
• If you plan to use your new garage as a workshop, buy the widest service door that will suit your building. That way,
you won’t have to open your sectional garage door every time you want to pull out the lawnmower or trash cans.
• Although primed wood service doors are less expensive than aluminum- or vinyl-clad doors, they’re generally not a
better value in the long run. Normal wear and tear and the effects of the elements will mean you’ll need to keep up
with regular scraping and painting in order to keep your wooden door in good condition. A clad door, on the other
hand, requires little or no maintenance over the life of the door.
• Another option for many of today’s quality service doors is to purchase a jamb made of composite materials instead of
wood. A composite jamb will not wick water up when it rains, and it’s impervious to rot and insects.
How to Install a Service Door

Flash the header. Cover the header with
a third piece of self-adhesive flashing
tape, extending the ends of the tape
6" beyond the side flashing. Fold the
extra tape over the housewrap to form a
3" overlap.
1
Flash the opening sides. Apply two strips
of 9"-wide self-adhesive flashing tape
to cover the jack studs in the door’s
rough opening. Cut a slit in the tape
3
and extend the outer ear 4 to 6" past
the bottom edge of the header. Fold the Seal the opening. Apply a 1⁄2"-wide bead
tape over the housewrap to create a 3" of caulk up the outside edges of the jack
overlap. Peel off the backing and press stud area and around the header to seal
the tape firmly in place. the brickmold casing. (continued)

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DTP: LY Page: 65
Position the door in the opening. Set the bottoms of the side
jambs inside the rough opening and tip the door into place.
Adjust the door so it’s centered in the opening.
5
Adjust the door. Orient pairs of shims so the thick and thin
ends are reversed, forming a rectangular block. Insert the
shims into the gap between the rough framing and the hinge-
side jamb. Spread the shims closer together or farther apart to I
adjust the total thickness until they are pressure-fitted into the o
gap. Space the shims every 12" along the jamb, and locate e
two pairs near the hinges. Check the hinge jamb for plumb d
and to make sure the shims do not cause it to bow. Drive pairs
of 6d casing nails through the jambs at the shim locations.
6 7
Shim the latch side. Insert pairs of shims every 12" in the gap Attach the brickmold. Drive 21⁄2" galvanized casing nails
between the latch-side jamb and the rough framing. With the through the brickmold to fasten it to the jack studs and A
door closed, adjust the shims in or out until there’s a consistent header. Space the nails every 12". Trim off the shims l
1
⁄8" gap between the door and the jamb. Then drive pairs of 6d so they are flush with the inside wall using a utility knife m
casing nails through the jamb and shims to secure them. or handsaw.

DTP: LY Page: 66
How to Install a Lockset
1 2
Insert the lock bolts for the lockset (and deadbolt, if installing Fasten the lock mechanisms by tightening the screws that
one) into their respective holes in the door. These days, new draw the two halves together. Do not overtighten.
exterior doors are almost always predrilled for locksets and
deadbolts. Screw the bolt plates into the premortised openings.
s
How to Install Door Reinforcement
1 2
Add metal door reinforcers to strengthen the area around the Add a heavy-duty latch guard to reinforce the door jamb around
lockset or deadbolt. These strengthen the door and make it the strike plate. For added protection, choose a guard with a
more resistant to kick-ins. flange to resist pry-bar insertion. Attach the guard with 3" screws
that will penetrate through the jamb and into the wall studs.

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DTP: LY Page: 67
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & eye protection Adjustable wrench
Tape measure Hammer
Long level Sectional garage
Drill with nut drivers door with tracks &
mounting brackets
Installing Overhead Stepladder
Ratchet wrench
16d nails
Garage Doors with sockets

C-clamps
Doorstop molding
Lag screws
Y our sectional garage door will bear the brunt

of everything Mother Nature and an active
household throws at it—seasonal temperature swings,
order your new door, double-check your garage’s
rough opening and minimum ceiling height to be sure
the new door will fit the space properly.
moisture, blistering sunlight, and the occasional Installing a sectional garage door is easier than you
misfired half-court jump shot. If that isn’t enough, the might think, and manufacturers make the process
average sectional garage door cycles up and down at quite accessible for average do-it-yourselfers. With
least four times per day, which totals up to around a helper or two, you should have little difficulty
1,300 or more uses every year. For all of these reasons, installing a new garage door in a single day. The job is
it pays to install a high-quality door on your new really no more complex than other window and door M
h
garage so you can enjoy a long service life from it. replacements if you work carefully and exercise good
t
These days, you don’t have to settle for a drab, judgment. Garage door kits come with all the necessary u
flat-panel door. Door manufacturers provide many hardware and detailed step-by-step instructions. Since d
options for cladding colors, panel texture and layout, garage door styles vary, the installation process for your s
exterior hardware, and window styles. Today’s state- new door may differ from the photo sequence you see t
of-the-art garage doors also benefit from improved here, so always defer to the manufacturer’s instructions. m
d
material construction, more sophisticated safety This will ensure the door is installed correctly and the
features, and enhanced energy efficiency. When you manufacturer will honor the product warranty.
The sectional
garage door
you choose for
your garage will
go a long way
toward defining
the building’s
appearance
and giving you
trouble-free
performance day
in and day out.
I
a
j
l
H
u

DTP: LY Page: 68
How to Install an Overhead Garage Door
1 2
Measure the door opening. Measure the

head room (from the top of the door to
the lowest rafter); the side room (the
y unobstructed space on either side of the
door); and the backroom (the unobstructed
space from the inside of the jamb back into
the garage). Check that the measurements Assemble door tracks. Working on the floor, lay out and assemble the vertical
. match the minimum requirements for the tracks, jamb brackets, and flag angle hardware. Install the door bottom seal and
door you’ve purchased. the roller and hinge hardware on the bottom door section.
3 4
Install the first section. Set the bottom door section into position Attach the tracks. Slip a vertical track over the door section
against the side jambs, and adjust it left or right until the side rollers and against the side jamb. Adjust it for plumb, then
jambs overlap it evenly. Check the top of the door section for fasten the jamb brackets to the side jamb blocking with lag
level. Place shims beneath the door to level it, if necessary. screws. Carefully measure, mark, and install the other vertical
Have a helper hold the door section in place against the jambs track as well.
until it is secured in the tracks. (continued)

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DTP: LY Page: 69
5 6
I
Attach the lift cables. Depending on your door design, you Install the door hinges. Fasten the end and intermediate f
may need to attach lift cables to the bottom door section at hinges to the bottom door section, and then install roller d
this time. Follow the instructions that come with your door to brackets and hinges on the other door sections. Attach hinges d
connect these cables correctly. to the top edges of each door section only. This way you’ll be
able to stack one section on top of the next during assembly.
7 I
b
l
Add next sections. Slip the next door section into place in the OPTION: The top door section may require additional t
door tracks and on top of the first section. Connect the bottom bracing, special top roller brackets, and a bracket for a
hinges (already attached to the first section) to the second securing a garage door opener. Install these parts now Y
door section. Repeat the process until you have stacked and following the door manufacturer’s instructions. o
installed all but the top door section. d

DTP: LY Page: 70
8 9
Install the top section. Set the top door section in place and Complete track installation. Fasten the horizontal door tracks
fasten it to the hinges on the section below it. Support the to the flag angle brackets on top of the vertical track sections.
door section temporarily with a few 16d nails driven into the Temporarily suspend the back ends of the tracks with rope so
door header blocking and bent down at an angle. they are level.
10 11
Install rear hanger brackets. This step will vary among door opener Attach the extension springs. The door opener here features a
brands. Check your door instruction manual for the correct pair of smaller springs that run parallel to the horizontal door
location of rear hanger brackets that will hold the horizontal door tracks, not parallel to the door header as larger torsion springs
tracks in position. Measure, cut, and fasten sections of perforated are installed. The springs are attached to cables that attach to
angle iron together with bolts, washers, and nuts to form two the rear door hanger brackets.
Y-shaped door track brackets. Fasten the brackets to the collar tie
or bottom truss chord with lag screws and washers following the
door manufacturer’s recommendations. (continued)

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DTP: LY Page: 71
12 13
Test to make sure the door tracks properly. Raise it about Attach the spring cables. The door should be fully raised
halfway first. You’ll need at least one helper here. Slide a and held in place with C-clamps tightened onto the tracks
sturdy support underneath the door bottom to hold the door to prevent it from slipping down. The tension in the springs
and then inspect to make sure the rollers are tracking and the should be relieved. The cables in this case are tied off onto
tracks are parallel. a 3-hole clip that is then hooked onto the horizontal angle
bracket near the front of the tracks.
14
Attach the doorstop molding. Measure, cut, and nail sections
of doorstop molding to the door jambs on the outside of the
door to seal out weather. A rolled vinyl doorstop may come OPTION: Install a garage door opener. See pages 197
with your door kit. If not, use strips of 1 × 2 treated wood or to 198.
cedar for this purpose.

DTP: LY Page: 72
GARAGE DOOR OPENER SAFETY TIPS
Whether you’re adding an opener to a new or an old garage door, these tips will help make it a safe part of your home.
(Also see pages 206 to 211 for information on repairing garage doors.)
• Before beginning the installation, be sure the garage door manually opens and closes properly.
• If you have a one-piece door, with or without a track, read all additional manufacturer’s installation information.
• The gap between the bottom of the garage door and the floor must not exceed ¼". If it does, the safety reversal system
may not work properly.
• If the garage has a finished ceiling, attach a sturdy metal bracket to the structural supports before installing the
opener. This bracket and hardware are not usually provided with the garage door opener kit.
• Install the wall-mounted garage door control within sight of the garage door, out of reach of children (at a minimum
height of 5'), and away from all moving parts of the door.
• Never use an extension cord or two-wire adapter to power the opener. Do not change the opener plug in any way to
make it fit an outlet. Be sure the opener is grounded.
• When an obstruction breaks the light beam while the door is closing, most door models stop and reverse to full open
position, and the opener lights flash 10 times. If no bulbs are installed, you will hear 10 clicks.
• To avoid any damage to vehicles entering or leaving the garage, be sure the door provides adequate clearance when
fully open.
• Garage doors may include tempered glass, laminate glass, or clear-plastic panels—all safe window options.
Make sure your garage door opener is securely Use the emergency release handle to disengage the trolley
supported to trusses or ceiling framing with sturdy metal only when the garage door is closed. Never use the handle
hanging brackets. to pull the door open or closed.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 73
G
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & For fiber-cement
Installing Siding & Trim eye protection
For stone veneer:
siding:
Hammer
Aviation snips Tape measure
S iding will protect your new garage from the Hammer Bevel gauge
elements, of course, but it also serves as a way Mixing trough Circular saw and
to visually tie the garage to your home. Ideally, you Stiff-bristle brush straightedge guide
should choose the same siding for the garage as you Paint brush
Angle grinder
have on your house, but if you decide to go with a
with diamond blade Chalk line
different material it should mimic the same pattern,
such as horizontal laps, overlapping shakes, or vertical Mason’s hammer Drill with bits
boards and battens. These days, material options for Trowel Cementboard shears
garage siding are more varied than ever. You might Grout bag Caulk gun
choose wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiber-cement lap
Jointing tool Jigsaw with masonry blades
siding, cedar or vinyl shakes, faux brick and stone, or
stucco. Or, depending on your home’s siding scheme, Expanded metal lath Fiber-cement corner boards
it might be a combination of two different siding Building paper Casing nails (6d)
materials that complement one another. Type N mortar Fiber-cement frieze boards V
Each type of siding will typically have its own unique m
Masonry sand Primer paint f
installation process, and each application requires the s
correct underlayment, fasteners, and nailing or bonding Veneer stone Fiber-cement siding
p
method. The installation process can even vary among Sill blocks Dust respirator
manufacturers for the same product type. 2 × 2" zinc-coated Silicone caulk
For the garage project shown here, we install a L-brackets Paint
combination of fiber-cement lap siding and cast Metal flashing
veneer stone.
A combination of faux
stone and lap siding, with
accenting corner trim,
transforms what could
otherwise be an ordinary
garage into a structure
that adds real curb
appeal to your home.
F
s
t

DTP: LY Page: 74
Garage Siding Types
Vinyl lap siding is inexpensive, relatively easy to install, and low Wood lap siding comes in wide or narrow strips and is
maintenance. Some styles can be paired with custom profiled normally beveled. Exterior-rated wood that can be clear
foam insulation boards. Matching corner trim boards are coated is common (usually cedar or redwood). Other wood
sold, but you can also make your own wood trim boards and types are used, too, but these are usually sold preprimed and
paint them. are suitable for painting only.
Fiber-cement lap siding is a relative newcomer, but its use is Specialty siding products like these cast veneer stones are often
spreading quickly. It is very durable but requires some special used as accents on partial walls (see the photo on previous
tools for cutting and installation. page). They can also be used to side one wall of a structure.
For the most part, their effectiveness (and your budget) would
be diminished if they were used to cover the entire structure.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 75
C
g
w
h
T
Cast veneer stones are thin synthetic masonry units that are applied to building walls to imitate the appearance of natural stone
veneer. They come in random shapes, sizes, and colors, but they are scaled to fit together neatly without looking unnaturally
uniform. Outside corner stones and a sill block (used for capping half-wall installations) are also shown here.
How to Install Cast Veneer Stone
1 2 3
Prepare the wall. Veneer stones can be Apply a scratch coat. The wall in the Test layouts. Uncrate large groups of
applied to a full wall or as an accent installation area should be covered with stones and dry-lay them on the ground
on the lower portion of a wall. A top a ½- to ¾"-thick layer of mortar. Mix one to find units that blend well together in F
height of 36 to 42" looks good. A part Type N mortar to two parts masonry shape as well as in color. This will save a
layer of expanded metal lath (stucco sand and enough water to make the an enormous amount of time as you b
lath) is attached over a substrate of consistency workable. Apply with a trowel, install the stones. s
building paper. let the mortar dry for 30 minutes. Brush s
the surface with a stiff-bristle brush.

DTP: LY Page: 76
4 5
Cut veneer stones, if necessary, by scoring with an angle Apply the stones. Mix mortar in the same ratios as in step 2,
grinder and diamond blade along a cutting line. Rap the but instead of applying it to the wall, apply it to the backs of
waste side of the cut near the scored line with a mason’s the stones with a trowel. A ½"-thick layer is about right. Press
hammer or a maul. The stone should fracture along the line. the mortared stones against the wall in their position. Hold
Try to keep the cut edge out of view as much as you can. them for a few second so they adhere.
6 7
L-brackets
Fill the gaps between stones with mortar once all of the stones Install sill blocks. These are heavier and wider than the
are installed and the mortar has had time to dry. Fill a grout veneer block so they require some reinforcement. Attach
bag (sold at concrete supply stores) with mortar mixture and three 2 × 2" zinc-coated L-brackets to the wall for each piece
squeeze it into the gaps. Once the mortar sets up, strike it of sill block. Butter the backs of the sill blocks with mortar and
smooth with a jointing tool. press them in place, resting on the L-brackets. Install metal
flashing first for extra protection against water penetration.

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TOOLS FOR WORKING WITH FIBER-CEMENT SIDING
The garage shown here will be covered with durable and rot-resistant fiber-cement lap siding. The best tool for cutting
it is electric cementboard shears (available at rental centers) that make straight cuts without raising harmful silica dust.
You can also cut fiber-cement with a circular saw and fiber-cement blade or with a jigsaw, but both will create more dust
than shears. Bore holes with a drill and twist bits or hole saws. To install fiber-cement siding, drill pilot holes and hand nail
with siding nails; or use a pneumatic coil nailer with special fiber-cement siding nails. Wear a quality dust respirator when
cutting or drilling fiber cement.
Circular saw
Drill with Coil nailer
hole saw
Fiber-cement
nail coil
I
Respirator o
Jigsaw Cementboard n
shears e
How to Install Fiber-Cement Lap Siding
1 2
I
Install corner boards. Nail one board flush with the wall corner Trim windows and doors. Measure and cut brickmold or other s
and even with the bottom of the wall sheathing using 6d trim to fit around the windows and doors. The trim joints can e
galvanized casing nails. Keep nails 1" from each end and ¾" either be butted or mitered, depending on your preference. s
from the edges. Drive two nails every 16". Overlap a second For miter joints, cut corners at 45° and nail with 2½" A
trim board on the adjacent side, aligning the edge with the galvanized casing nails. Drive pairs of nails every 16". n
face of the first board, and nail in place.

DTP: LY Page: 78
3 4
Install frieze boards. Cut the frieze boards to match the width Install gable frieze boards. Use a bevel gauge to transfer the
of the corner boards. Butt them against the corner trim, and gable angle to the frieze boards, and miter cut the ends to
nail them to the wall studs directly under the soffits on the match. Install the gable frieze boards so they meet neatly in a
eaves with 6d galvanized casing nails. miter joint at the roof peak. Nail them to the gable wall plates
and studs with pairs of 2" 6d galvanized casing nails every 16".
5 6
Install starter strips. Install strips of lath (or narrow pieces of Install the first board. Cut the first siding board so it ends halfway
siding) along the bottom of the walls, flush with the bottom over a stud when the other end is placed 1⁄8" from a corner trim
edges of the wall sheathing. The lath will tip the first row of board. Prime the cut end before installing it. Align the siding
siding out to match the overlap projection of the other rows. with the bottom edge of the lath, keeping a 1⁄8" gap between the
Attach the lath to the wall studs with 6d galvanized casing siding and the corner board. Nail the panel at each stud location
nails. Snap vertical chalk lines to mark wall stud locations. 1" from the top edge with siding nails. Keep nails at least ½" in
from the panel ends to prevent splitting. (continued)

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DTP: LY Page: 79
Install the second board. Mark and cut the second piece
of siding to length. Wear a dust respirator when cutting the
siding, especially if you use a circular saw instead of electric 8
cementboard shears.
Install the next board. Set the second siding board in place
over the lath, spaced to create a gap of 1⁄8" where it would butt
against the first board. Nail the siding board to the wall at stud
I
locations. Install more siding boards to complete the first row.
v
Snap level chalk lines across the wall to mark layout lines for
r
the remaining rows of siding. Set this pattern so each row of
m
siding will overlap the row below it by 1¼".
o
f
Install next rows. As you install each row of siding, stagger the
joints between the end boards to offset the seams by at least
one wall stud. 10
Work around windows and doors. Slide a piece of siding against

the horizontal trim, and mark the board 1⁄8" from the outside
edges of the trim. Use these marks to draw perpendicular lines
on the board, and make a mark on the lines to represent the
correct overlap. Connect these marks with a long line, and make F
the cutout with a jigsaw equipped with a masonry blade. Fit and o
nail the notched panel around the opening. n

DTP: LY Page: 80
11 12
Install the top row. Unless you get lucky or have planned Transfer gable angles. Use a bevel gauge to determine the
very carefully, the top row of siding boards will likely require roof angle on the gable ends of the roof. Transfer the angle
rip-cutting to make sure that your reveals and setbacks are to the siding panels that butt against the gable frieze boards,
maintained. With a circular saw and a straightedge guide, trim and cut them to fit.
off the top of the boards so the cut tops butt up against the
frieze. Nail the cut boards in place.
13 14
Fill in under gables. Drill pilot holes though the angled corners Caulk gaps. Fill all gaps between boards and between boards
of gable siding pieces to keep them from splitting. Drive the and trim with flexible, paintable caulk. Paint the siding and
nails through the holes to install the boards. trim as desired.

nd Edition
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DTP: LY Page: 82
Garage Plans
A full-scale detached garage involves almost all of

the same components found in a small home.
Because of that complexity, a detailed building plan
is essential to correctly construct a detached garage.
In most cases, it’s also a matter of meeting code
requirements, because local building departments
require accurate plans for permit approval.
The materials list and plans for the garage that
was built in the previous section follows in the next
few pages. Combine the two sections and you can
build that adaptable and highly functional design for
yourself. Of course, tastes vary. So you’ll also find six
full garage plans starting on page 213. This section
includes step-by-step instructions for building three
distinctive garages that represent very different
construction challenges and offer unique and eye-
catching appearances.
Using an existing plan is not the only way to go.
You can create your own using one of the many
computer-assisted design (CAD) programs available
on the market. Many of these even allow you to
print out professional-quality elevation diagrams
and materials lists. Regardless of how you develop it,
the right plan is the key to success in building your
ideal garage.
In this chapter:
• Single Detached Garage
• Compact Garage
• Gambrel Garage
GARAGE PLANS 83

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 83
Single Detached Garage
T he garage pictured here is the finished version of

the one under construction in the steps shown
in the previous section. As shown, the dimensions
Whether you’re building this particular garage
or any other, detailed plans are a must. Not only will
they be essential to successfully construct a sound
are 14 × 22 feet. Like any detached garage, this was and lasting garage, but they are normally required by
one was built according to detailed plans and a local building departments. But even if you choose a
comprehensive materials list. Those are provided different garage than the one shown here (or among
in the pages that follow. This simple, one-car those in the special section starting on page 213), you
garage is an incredibly useful structure, is relatively don’t have to come up with plans from scratch. You
straightforward to build, and features a design that can use the plans we’ve provided or purchase others
will complement most home styles. online to suit your own storage needs and available
Finished details, such as siding, trim, lighting, and space. You can also choose the easier option of a
paint, are left open, because it’s likely that any individual kit garage, for which most of the elements will be
homeowner will want to make those choices for prefabricated and delivered, making construction an
themselves—usually to match existing home elements. easier by-the-numbers process.
This efficient garage

is built from the
ground up using
common building
materials available at
any building center.
This plan was the
basis for the Building
a New Garage
chapter featured on
the previous pages.
The materials lists
and plan drawings
are included in the
following pages of
this chapter.

DTP: LY Page: 84
MATERIALS & CUTTING LIST
DESCRIPTION QUANTITY/SIZE DESCRIPTION QUANTITY/SIZE

Wall bottom (plate treated) 1 pc. / 2 × 4 × 14' Exterior caulk 2 tubes / 101
Wall bottom (plate treated) 5 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 12' Garage service door 6 panel 1 ea. / 2'8" × 6'8"
Precut wall studs 58 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 92 ⁄8"
5
Sectional overhead garage door 1 ea. / 9 × 7'
Wall top/tie plates 3 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 14' Door jambs 42 L.F. / 1 × 4'
Wall top/tie plates 6 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 12' Brickmold casing 42 L.F.
Wall top/tie plates 3 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 10' Shingle mold stop 42 L.F.
Header over garage door 2 pcs. / 2 × 12 × 10' Concrete slab foundation & floor 8 cu. yd.
Header blocking 2 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 10' Concrete figures
Header over window & door 2 pcs. / 2 × 8 × 10' Wire mesh 308 sq. ft. / 6 × 6 × #10
Cripple studs 6 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 8' Reinforcing bars 144 L.F. / ½" dia.
Garage door hardware surround 1 pc. / 2 × 4 × 10' Exterior paint 3 gal.
Garage door hardware surround 2 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 8' NAILS
Corner brace 6 pcs. / 1 × 4 × 12' 16d common nails coated 20 lb.
Rafter tie 6 pcs. / 2 × 6 × 14' 10d common nails coated 2 lb.
Rafters & gable blocking 12 pcs. / 2 × 6 × 18' 8d common nails coated 2 lb.
Ridgeboard 2 pcs. / 2 × 8 × 12' 6d common nails coated 5 lb.
Gable studs 3 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 12' 8d galvanized siding nails 5 lb.
Gable nailer (top plate) 4 pcs. / 2 × 4 × 8' 1¼" galvanized roofing nails 15 lb.
Soffit nailer 4 pcs. / 2 × 2 × 12' 8d casing nails 2 lb.
Horizontal fiber-cement siding 10½ exp. 617 sq. ft. / ⁄16" × 12"
7
Anchor bolts w/ nuts & washers 20 ea. / ½" dia. × 12"
Metal corners for siding 40 pcs. Key in knob cylinder lockset 1 ea.
Rake fascia 2 pcs. / 1 × 8 × 18' Door butts 1 pr. / 3½ × 3½"
Rake soffit 2 pcs. / 1 × 8 × 18' OPTIONAL
Rake shingle mold 36 L.F. Ext. plywood sheathing (corner bracing) 8 pcs. / 4' × 8' × ½"
Fascia & soffit 8 pcs. / 1 × 8 × 12' Insulating sheathing 12 pcs. / 4' × 8' × ½"
Aluminum foil kraft paper 1 roll / 36" wide Galvanized nails 10 lb. / 1½"
C-D Ext. plywood roof sheathing 13 pcs. / 4' × 8' × ½" OPTIONAL FOR ALTERNATE FORMED FOUNDATION
Roofing felt 1 roll / 15# Concrete for footing 3 cu. yd.
Asphalt shingles 41⁄3 sq. / 235# Concrete for walls 6 cu. yd.
Sliding window unit 1 ea. / 4 × 3' Concrete for floor 4 cu. yd.
These plans have been prepared to meet professional building standards. However, due to varying construction codes and local building practices,
these drawings may not be suitable for use in all locations. Results may vary according to quality of material purchased and the skill of the builder.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 85
FRONT ELEVATION
1 × 8 fascia
Shingle mold 1 × 8 12
Slope
4
Self-seal
asphalt shingles
Fiber-cement
hardboard
siding
9' × 7'
sectional
garage door
Brickmold
casing
ELEVATIONS
Brickmold Self-seal asphalt shingles

casing
Sliding window 1 × 8 fascia
1 × 8 lap
siding (typ.)
7 1⁄ 2" 6"
Rear Right side Left side

DTP: LY Page: 86
FLOOR PLAN
22'-0"
3 1⁄ 2" 3 1⁄ 2"
11'-81⁄2" 9'-81⁄2"
panel length “D” panel length “B”
panel length “F”
1'-43⁄4"
9'-0" × 7'-0"
sectional
garage door
9'-41⁄2" R.O.
panel length “A”

14'-0"
2'-8" × 6'-8"
6 panel door
panel length “G”
3'-23⁄4"
2'-101⁄4" 2'-10" R.O. 5'-113⁄4" 3" 5'-4" R.O. 5'-51⁄2"
3 1⁄ 2" 10'-41⁄2" 11'-1⁄2"

3 1⁄ 2"
panel length “E” panel length “C”
OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB DETAIL TYPICAL CORNER DETAIL
Garage door 2 × 4 surround

to solid bearing
2-2 × 4 2 × 4 stud
Overhead door
& door stop
1 × 4 trim
Brickmold
SERVICE DOOR JAMB DETAIL
Note: If interior finish is used,

2
⁄8 × 6⁄8 6-panel door
1
⁄4" shim space 2-2 × 4 add 2 × 4 stud & blocking
at each corner.
Door stop
1 × 4 trim
Brickmold
Siding

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 87
BUILDING SECTION
Typ. Roof Construction:

Self-seal asphalt shingles
15# roofing felt
1
⁄2" plywood roof sheathing 2 × 8 ridgeboard
2 × 6 @ 24" O.C. roof rafters
12
Note: No attic storage load.

1 × 8 fascia
2 × 4 tie plate 2 × 6 @ 48" O.C.

1 × 8 soffit rafter ties
2 × 4 top plate
2 × 2 nailer
(continuous)
Housewrap
7'-85⁄8" pre-cut studs
Siding
8'-11⁄8"
8'-11⁄8"
2×4
@ 16" O.C. stud
1
⁄2 × 12"
T/concrete elevation 0'-0" T/concrete elevation 0'-0"
anchor bolt
2 × 4 bottom 2" @ back & 4" @ front 4" concrete slab w/

pl. (treated) (section “4A” only) 6" × 6" × #10 W.W.F.
varies 6"
To extend 6" below local frost line 6"
4" gravel base 1'-6" min.

4" gravel base
2-#4 reinforcement rods
8" concrete wall

8" 1'-0”
16 × 8" concrete footing
1'-8"
8"
1'-4"
FORMED FOUNDATION FOR TURNED DOWN SLAB FOR
FROST CONSTRUCTION NO FROST CONSTRUCTION

DTP: LY Page: 88
SIDE WALL FRAMING ELEVATION
2 × 8 ridgeboard
2 × 6 rafters
2'-81⁄2"
@ 24" O.C.
2 × 6 rafter ties
@ 48" O.C.
12'-0" 10'-0" 2 × 4 tie plate

⁄ 2"
3 ⁄ 2" 3 ⁄ 2"
1
1 1
2 × 4 tie plate
2 × 4 @ 16" O.C.
2-2 × 8 2-2 × 8
2×4 Panel
3'-01⁄2"
cripple point
7'-115⁄8" panel height
4'-01⁄2"
1×4
temporary bracing
6'-91⁄4"
2 × 4 bottom
plate (treated)
4 1⁄ 2"
12 ⁄2"
1
18 ⁄4"
1
11 ⁄4"
3
16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16"
10'-41⁄2" panel length “E” 11'-01⁄2" panel length “C”
FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION
2 × 8 ridgeboard
2 × 4 siding nailer/top plate
2'-81⁄2"
2 × 6 gable end rafter

2 × 4 gable end studs
7 1⁄ 2" 20" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 20" 7 1⁄ 2"
2 × 4 tie plate
⁄ 2"
1
3 1⁄ 2" 3 1⁄ 2"
13'-5" 2 × 4 top plate

2 - 2 × 12 headers
111⁄4"
2 × 4 studs @ 16" O.C.
2 × 4s as required
7'-115⁄8" panel height
2 × 4 cripples each side

7'-03⁄8"
2 × 4 bottom plate (treated)
3" 3"
1'-11⁄4" 16 8"
1'-31⁄4" 9'-71⁄2" header length 3'-11⁄4"

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 89
Compact Garage
T he compact garage is named for its exceptional

versatility and ample storage space. This classic
gabled outbuilding has a footprint that measures
Above the main space of the compact garage is a fully
framed attic built with 2 × 6 joists for supporting plenty
of stored goods. The steep pitch of the roof allows for
12 × 16 feet and it includes several useful features. over 3 feet of headroom under the peak. Access to the
For starters, its 8-foot-wide overhead garage door attic is provided by a drop-down staircase that folds up
provides easy access for large equipment, supplies, and out of the way, leaving the workspace clear below.
projects, or even a small automobile. The foundation The garage door, service door, staircase, and both
and shed floor is a poured concrete slab, so it’s ideal windows of the garage are prebuilt factory units that
for heavy items like lawn tractors and stationary tools. you install following the manufacturer’s instructions.
To the right of the garage door is a box bay Be sure to order all of the units before starting
window. This special architectural detail gives the construction. This makes it easy to adjust the framed
building’s façade a surprising houselike quality while openings, if necessary, to match the precise sizing of
filling the interior with natural light. And the bay’s each unit. Also consult your local building department
33-inch-deep × 60-inch-wide sill platform is the to learn about design requirements for the concrete
perfect place for herb pots or an indoor flower box. foundation. You may need to extend and/or reinforce
The adjacent wall includes a second large window the perimeter portion of the slab, or include a footing
and a standard service door, making this end of the that extends below the frost line. An extended apron
garage a pleasant, convenient space for all kinds of (as seen in the Gambrel Garage, page 104) is very
work or leisure. useful if you intend to house vehicles in the garage.

DTP: LY Page: 90
y
GARAGE PLANS 91

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 91
CUTTING LIST
DESCRIPTION QUANTITY/SIZE MATERIAL DESCRIPTION QUANTITY/SIZE MATERIAL

FOUNDATION Siding 15 sheets @ 4 × 8' 5
⁄8" T 1-11 plywood
Drainage material 2.75 cu. yd. Compactable gravel siding w/ vertical
grooves 8" O.C.
Concrete slab Field measure 3,000 psi concrete (or similar)
Mesh 200 sq. ft. 6 × 6", W2.9 × W2.9 Siding flashing 30 lin. ft. Metal Z-flashing
welded wire mesh
Overhead door jambs 1 @ 10', 2 @ 8' 1 × 6 cedar
Reinforcing bar As required by As required by
local code local code Overhead door stops 3 @ 8' Cedar door stop
WALL FRAMING Overhead door surround 1 @ 10', 2 @ 8' 2×6
Bottom plates 1 @ 16', 2 @ 12' 2 × 4 pressure treated Corner trim 8 @ 8' 1 × 4 cedar
1 @ 10' Door & window trim 4 @ 8', 5 @ 10' 1 × 4 cedar
Top plates 2 @ 14', 4 @ 12' 2×4 Box bay bottom trim 1 @ 8' 1 × 10 cedar
4 @ 10'
ROOFING
Standard wall studs 51 @ 8'* *may use 2 × 4
Sheathing 14 sheets @ 4 × 8' 1
⁄2" exterior-grade
925⁄8" precut studs
(& header, stud plywood roof
Diagonal bracing 5 @ 12' 1 × 4 (std. lumber) spacers) sheathing
Jack studs 5 @ 14' 2×4 15# building paper 2 rolls
Gable end studs 5 @ 8' 2×4 Shingles 42⁄3 squares Asphalt shingles—
Header, overhead door 2 @ 10' 2 × 12 250# per sq. min.
Header, windows 2 @ 10' 2 × 12 Roof flashing 10'6"
Header, service door 1 @ 8' 2 × 12 DOORS & WINDOWS
Header & stud spacers See Sheathing, right Overhead garage door 1 @ 8 × 7'
w/hardware
BOX BAY FRAMING
Service door 1 unit for 38 × 727⁄8" Prehung exterior
Half-wall bottom plate 1 @ 8' 2 × 4 pressure treated
rough opening door unit
Half-wall top plate
3 @ 8' 2×4 Window 2 units for Casement mullion
& studs
57 × 413⁄8" window unit—
Joists 3 @ 8' 2×6 complete
Window frame 4 @ 12' 2×4 FASTENERS & HARDWARE
Sill platform & top 1 sheet @ 4 × 8' ⁄2" plywood
1
J-bolts w/nuts 14 1
⁄2"-dia. × 12"
Rafter blocking 1 @ 8' 2×8 & washers
ROOF FRAMING 16d galvanized 3 lbs.
common nails
Rafters 36 @ 10' 2×6
(& lookouts, blocking) 16d common nails 15 lbs.
Ridgeboard 1 @ 18' 2×8 10d common nails 21⁄2 lbs.
ATTIC 8d box nails 16 lbs.
Floor joists 16 @ 12' 2×6 8d common nails 5 lbs.
Floor decking 6 sheets @ 4 × 8' ⁄2" plywood

1 8d galvanized 10 lbs.
siding nails
Staircase 1 unit for 22 × 48" Disappearing attic
rough opening stair unit 1" galvanized 10 lbs.
roofing nails
EXTERIOR FINISHES
8d galvanized 3 lbs.
Eave fascia 2 @ 18' 2 × 8 cedar casing nails
Gable fascia 4 @ 10' 1 × 8 cedar Entry door lockset 1
Drip edge & gable trim 160 lin. ft. 1 × 2 cedar

DTP: LY Page: 92
FOUNDATION PLAN
15'-103⁄4"
9 ⁄ 2"
1
7'-10" 1'-113⁄4" 4'-6" 9 1⁄ 2"
6 3⁄ 4"
9 1⁄ 2"
5'-1"
5'-17⁄8"
4" Reinforced concrete slab w/

6 × 6 W 2.9 × 2.9 wire mesh
over 4" compacted granular fill
11'-103⁄4"
13⁄4" Typical to center of
1
⁄2" dia. × 12" anchor bolts
5'-81⁄4"
5'-17⁄8"
9 1⁄ 2"
4 3⁄ 4" 4 5⁄ 8 "
6 3⁄ 4"
9'-1" 5'-63⁄8" 6"
FOUNDATION DETAIL BUILDING SECTION
2 × 8 Ridgeboard
1
⁄2" Plywood flooring
1 ⁄4" Typical to center of
3
12
12'-41⁄2"
to slab
1
⁄2" dia. × 12" anchor bolts Disappearing 8
8'-11⁄8" 6" 3'-2 1⁄8"
stairway
Grade
6"
11'-91⁄4"
1'-6"
4" Reinforced concrete slab 1×6
w/6 × 6 W 2.9 × 2.9 wire Trim board 4'-9"
mesh over 4" compacted T1-11
7'-85⁄8"
3"
gravel 2 × 4 Top plate Siding

1
⁄2" Plywood door 1'-0" 2×4
2 - #4 Bars 1'-0"
1
⁄2" Plywood shelf 1'-31⁄2" Wall stud
2×2 4"
2"
Shelf supports
To extend below
local frost line T1-11 Siding
3"
(12" min. 2 × 4 Wall stud 11'-103⁄4"

w/no frost line)
2 × 4 Bottom plate 1'-0"
4" gravel bed, compacted

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 93
FRONT ELEVATION
Self-seal shingles
1 × 2 Drip edge
2 × 8 Fascia
8"
Casement window
1 × 4 Trim
8"-wide
overhead door
T1-11 Siding
Grade
RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION REAR ELEVATION
12
1 × 2 Drip edge
8
1 × 8 Fascia Self-seal shingles
1 × 2 Trim
Z-flashing
1×4
Trim 8"
1'-6"
Casement 1×4
window Trim
1×4
Trim
T1-11 Siding
Grade
Grade Concrete slab
T1-11 Siding w/
Concrete slab grooves, 8" O.C.

DTP: LY Page: 94
WALL FRAMING PLAN
15'-103⁄4"
9'-33⁄8" 6'-73⁄8"
Panel “C” Panel “B”
3 1⁄ 2"
2 - 2 × 12 Headers
w/1⁄2" plywood between
Disappearing stair 1'-0"

PC
3"
11'-103⁄4"
Panel “D”
Panel “A”
11'-33⁄4"
11'-33⁄4"
GFI
2'-0"
2 × 6 Trim
A
2'-0"
GFI 5
8 × 7' Overhead door
1'-31⁄2"
3"
3 1⁄ 2"
2'-0" 2'-0" 9"
3"
WP/GFI GFI
Note: Wiring plans 2 - 2 × 12 Headers

are optional. w/1⁄2" plywood between
5'-0"
Panel “G”
9'-81⁄8" 6'-25⁄8"
Panel “E” Panel “F”
BACK SIDE FRAMING SIDE FRAMING
12
153⁄8" 153⁄8" 8
2 × 8 Ridgeboard
8" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 8" 2×8
Ridgeboard 2 × 4 Gable studs
2'-0"
2 × 6 Rafters
2 × 6 Rafters
2 × 6 Attic
floor joists 153⁄8" 16" 16" 16" 8" 8" 16" 16" 16" 153⁄8"
@ 16" O.C.
2'-0"
2 × 4 Tie plate 11'-10¾"

9'-05⁄8" 6'-31⁄8" 2×4
3 1⁄ 2" 31⁄2" Tie plate
3½"
3½"
2 × 4 Top plate 2×4

Top plate
1×4
Diagonal bracing 1×4
Diagonal
Blocking between bracing
corner studs
2×4
45°
2 × 4 Wall studs Wall studs
2×4
3 1⁄ 2" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 3 1⁄ 2" Bottom 45°
6'-73⁄8" 9'-33⁄8" plate
2×4 113⁄8" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 113⁄8"
Panel “B” Panel “C”
117⁄8" 117⁄8" Bottom plate 11'-3¾"
Panel “D”

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 95
FRONT SIDE FRAMING
9 3 ⁄ 8 " 6 5⁄ 8 " 5 3⁄ 8"

8" 153⁄8" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 10" 8"
2 × 8 Ridgeboard
2 × 6 Lookouts,
2'-0" O.C.
2'-0" 2'-0"
2 × 6 Rafters
2 × 6 Attic floor joists,

16" O.C.
Secondary cut needed for box bay window 2 × 4 Tie plate

3 ⁄ 2"
1
3 1⁄ 2"
6'-3 ⁄8"
1
9'-0 ⁄8"
5
1 1⁄ 2"
2 × 4 Top plate
5'-0"
R.O.
Blocking between
corner studs
11⁄2" 3'-113⁄8"
Wall stud length
R.O.
7'-85⁄8"
2 - 2 × 12 Header
6'-107⁄8"
w/1⁄2" plywood spacer
2'-81⁄2" 2 × 4 Top plate
2 × 4 Bottom plate
1 1⁄ 2" 3 1⁄ 2" 4 1⁄ 2" 8'-2" 4 1⁄ 8" 16" 16" 16" 3 1⁄ 2"
2 1⁄ 2" 9'-81⁄8" 3 1⁄ 8" 6'-25⁄8"

Panel “E” 4 ⁄ 8" 6 ⁄ 8"
5 5 Panel “F” 6 1⁄ 2"
ATTIC FLOOR JOIST FRAMING BOX BAY WINDOW FRAMING
2×6
Attic floor joists,
16" O.C.
3 1⁄ 2"
3'-0"
3 1⁄ 2"
5'-0"
2 - 2 × 4 Header R.O.
3'-53⁄8"
R.O.
22" P.C. 2 × 4 Side stud

11'-103⁄4"
R.O.
4'-0"
R.O. 1 1⁄ 2"
2 × 4 Sill plate
16" 16" 16" 5 3⁄ 8"
6 5⁄ 8 "
2 × 6 Extension box
3'-2"
bay joists 5'-0"

Panel “G”
4'-33⁄4"
1 1⁄ 2"
3 1⁄ 2"
137⁄8" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 16" 163⁄4" 151⁄4" 16" 167⁄8"
6 3⁄ 4" 9 1⁄ 4"

DTP: LY Page: 96
OVERHEAD DOOR HEADER DETAIL
Self-seal shingles over 12

15# building paper over
1
⁄2" exterior-grade plywood 8
2 × 6 Blocking
2 × 6 Floor joists, 16" O.C.
2 × 6 Rafter, 16" O.C.
2 × 4 Tie plate
2 × 4 Top plate
1 × 2 Drip edge
2 × 8 Fascia
T1-11 Siding
2 - 2 × 12
Header w/ 1⁄2"
plywood spacer
2 × 6 Surround
Caulk @ joint
Shim space
1 × 4 Wood trim 6'-107⁄8"
To top of
1 × 6 Ripped concrete slab
Wood door stop
Overhead door
OVERHEAD DOOR JAMB DETAIL SERVICE DOOR HEADER/JAMB DETAIL
2 × 4 Tie plate
2 × 6 Surround
2 × 4 Top plate
Overhead door 2 - 2 × 12 Header
w/ 1⁄2” plywood spacer
T1-11 Siding
Caulk @ joint
Shim space
Wood door stop
1 × 4 Wood trim
Shim space 1 × 6 Ripped
Wood stop
2 × 4 Wall stud
1 × 6 Ripped
2 × 4 Wall stud Shim space
Service door
1 × 4 Wood trim
Wood door stop

Caulk @ joint
1 × 6 Ripped
T1-11 Siding Caulk @ joint 1 × 4 Wood trim

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 97
RAFTER TEMPLATE CORNER DETAIL
Optional 5⁄8"
gypsum board
9'-21⁄8"
3 5⁄ 8 " 8'-101⁄2" T1-11 Siding
2×4
3 1⁄2 Wall studs
1 1⁄2 "
"
5 1⁄ 2"
2 × 6 Rafter
8
2 3⁄
"
1"
3 ⁄ 8"
5
113⁄16" If interior finish
1'-95⁄8" 4 1⁄ 4" 6'-85⁄8" 3 5⁄ 8 " is used,
add 2 × 4 stud
1 × 4 Corner
trim
Secondary cut for rafters 15
⁄16"
over box bay window only 3"
Blocking between
corner studs
1 ⁄4"
1
Caulk @ joint
BOX BAY WINDOW DETAIL ISOMETRIC B

i
p
1
s
Self-seal shingles over 12 2 × 6 Attic floor
15# building paper over joists, 16" O.C.
½" exterior-grade plywood 8 2 × 8 Ridgeboard
N
2 × 6 Blocking 2 × 6 Lookouts, b
2 × 6 Rafters, 16" O.C. 2'-0" O.C.
2 × 6 Attic floor joists, 16" O.C. 1 × 2 Drip edge
2 × 4 Tie plate
2 × 4 Top plate
2 × 8 Blocking
2×8
2 - 2 × 12 Header 2×4 Fascia board
w/ 1⁄2" plywood Gable studs
spacer @ 16" O.C. 2 × 6 Rafters,
1'-6"
1×2 16 O.C.
Drip edge 1'-3"
1 × 4 Diagonal bracing 4 - 2 × 12 Header
2×8 w/ 1⁄2" plywood
Fascia 2 × 4 Wall studs, spacer
2 - 2 × 4 Header 16" O.C.
w/ ½" plywood spacer 2 × 4 Sill plate
Window jamb 2 × 4 Top plate
(verify w/window mfg)
2 × 2 Nailer
2-2×4
½" Plywood Header
4'-9" R.O.
2 × 4 Stud
(beyond)
2×4
Sill plate
½" Plywood 2×4
2 × 6 Bay Side studs
extension joists
2×4
1" × 10" Sill plate
Ripped to 7½"
4" Reinforced 1
⁄2" Plywood
½" Exterior-grade concrete slab over F
3'-0 ⁄2"
1
2 × 6 Joists
plywood 4" compacted granular fill 9
n
t
1

DTP: LY Page: 98
How to Build the Compact Garage
1 2
Build the concrete foundation using the specifications shown Snap chalk lines for the bottom plates so they will be flush
in the Foundation Detail (page 93) and following the basic with the outside edges of the foundation. You can frame the
procedure on pages 20 to 25. The slab should measure walls in four continuous panels or break them up into panels
190¾" × 142¾". Set the 14 J-bolts into the concrete as A through F, as shown in the Wall Framing Plan (page 95).
shown in the Foundation Plan (page 93). We completely assembled and squared all four walls before
raising and anchoring them.
NOTE: All slab specifications must comply with local
building codes.
3 4
Frame the back wall(s) following the Back Side Framing (page Raise the back wall and anchor it to the foundation J-bolts
95). Use pressure-treated lumber for the bottom plate and with washers and nuts. Brace the wall upright. Frame and
nail it to the studs with galvanized 16d common nails. All of raise the remaining walls one at a time, then tie all of the
the standard studs are 925⁄8" long. Square the wall, then add walls together with double top plates. Cover the outside of
1 × 4 let-in bracing. the walls with T1-11 siding. (continued)
GARAGE PLANS 99

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 99
5 6
C
Cut fifteen 2 × 6 attic floor joists at 1423⁄4". Cut the top corner Mark the joist layout onto the wall plates following the Attic
r
at both ends of each joist. Mark 17⁄8" along the top edge and Floor Joist Framing (page 96). Leave 31⁄2" between the
9
15
⁄16" down the end; connect the marks, then cut along the outsides of the end walls and the outer joists. Toenail the joists
t
line. Clipping the corner prevents the joist from extending to the plates with three 8d common nails at each end. Frame
c
above the rafters. the rough opening for the staircase with doubled side joists
t
and doubled headers; fasten doubled members together with
pairs of 10d nails every 16". Install the drop-down staircase
unit following the manufacturer’s instructions.
7 8
C
b
b
Cover the attic floor with 1⁄2" plywood, fastening it to the joists Use the Rafter Template (page 98) to mark and cut two pattern e
with 8d nails. rafters. Test-fit the rafters and adjust the cuts as needed. Cut a
all (24) standard rafters. Cut four special rafters with an extra t
birdsmouths cut for the box bay. Cut four gable overhang u
rafters—these have no birdsmouths cuts.

DTP: LY Page: 100
9 10
Cut the 2 × 8 ridgeboard at 2063⁄4". Mark the rafter layout on the Mark the stud layout for the gable end walls onto the end wall
ridge and wall plates as shown in the Front Side Framing (page plates following the Side Framing (page 95). Transfer the
96) and Back Side Framing (page 95). Frame the roof following layout to the rafters, using a level. Cut each of the 2 × 4 studs
the steps on pages 38 to 41. Install 61⁄2"-long lookouts 24" on to fit, mitering the top ends at 33.5°. Install the studs flush
center, then attach the overhang rafters. Fasten the attic joists with the end walls.
to the rafters with three 10d nails at each end.
11 12
Construct the 2 × 4 half wall for the interior apron beneath the Cut six 2 × 6 joists at 361⁄2". Toenail the joists to the inner and
box bay. Cut two plates at 60" (pressure-treated lumber for outer half walls following the layout in the Box Bay Window
bottom plate); cut five studs at 321⁄2". Fasten one stud at each Framing (page 96); the joists should extend 15" past the outer
end and space the remaining studs evenly in between. Mark shed wall. Add a 60"-long 2 × 4 sill plate at the ends of the
a layout line 12" from the inside of the shed’s front wall (see joists. Cut two 2 × 4 side studs to extend from the sill plate to
the Building Section page 93). Anchor the half wall to the slab the top edges of the rafters (angle top ends at 33.5°) and install
using masonry screws or a powder-actuated nailer. them. Install a built-up 2 × 4 header between the side studs
413⁄8" above the sill plate. (continued)
GARAGE PLANS 101

nd Edition
Page: 100 Text Job: 01-0903 Title: CSP - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 101
13 14
Install a 2 × 2 nailer ½" up from the bottom of the 2 × 4 Bevel the top edge of the 2 × 6 blocking stock at 33.5°. Cut T
bay header. Cover the top and bottom of the bay with ½" individual blocks to fit between the rafters and attic joists, and a
plywood as shown in the Box Bay Window Detail on page 98. install them to seal off the rafter bays. See the Overhead Door a
Cut a 2 × 4 stud to fit between the plywood panels at each Header detail (page 97). The blocks should be flush with d
end of the 2 × 4 shed wall header. Fasten these to the studs the tops of the rafters. Custom-cut 2 × 8 blocking to enclose b
supporting the studs and the header. the rafter bays above the box bay header; see the Box Bay g
Window Detail on page 98.
15 16
Add 2 × 8 fascia to the ends of the rafters along each eave Add Z-flashing above the first row of siding, then cut and fit I
so the top outer edge will be flush with the top of the roof T1-11 siding for the gable ends. Cover the flashed seam with m
sheathing. Cover the gable overhang rafters with 1 × 8 1 × 4 trim. s
fascia. Add 1 × 2 trim to serve as a drip edge along the eaves o
and gable ends so it will be flush with the top of the roof s
sheathing. Install the ½" roof sheathing. p

DTP: LY Page: 102
17 18
To complete the trim details, add 1 × 2 along the gable ends Rip cut 1 × 6 boards to 41⁄8" wide for the overhead door jambs.
and sides of the box bay. Use 1 × 4 on all vertical corners and Install the jambs using the door manufacturer’s dimensions
around the windows, service door, and overhead door. Rip for the opening. Shim behind the jambs if necessary. Make
down 1 × 10s for horizontal trim along the bottom of the box sure the jambs are flush with the inside of the wall framing
bay. Also cover underneath the bay joists with ½" exterior- and are flush with the face of the siding. Install the 2 × 6
grade plywood. surround as shown in the Overhead Door Header Detail and
Overhead Door Jamb Detail on page 97.
19 20
Install the two windows and the service door following the Add building paper and asphalt shingles following the steps on
manufacturers’ instructions. Position the jambs of the units pages 55 to 58.
so they will be flush with the siding, if applicable. Install the
overhead door, then add stop molding along the top and
side jambs. See the Service Door Header/Jamb Detail on
page 97.
GARAGE PLANS 103

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 103
Gambrel Garage
F ollowing classic barn designs, this 12 × 12-foot

garage has several features that also make it a
workshop. The garage’s 144-square-foot floor is a
poured concrete slab with a thickened edge that
allows it to serve as the building’s foundation.
Designed for economy and durability, the floor can
easily support heavy machinery, woodworking tools,
and recreational vehicles.
The garage’s sectional overhead door makes for
quick access to equipment and supplies and provides
plenty of air and natural light for working inside. The interior space (see next page). Beneath the roof is a
door opening is sized for an 8-foot-wide × 7-foot-tall sizeable storage attic with 315 cubic feet of space and
door, but you can buy any size or style of door you its own double doors above the garage door.
like—just make your door selection before you start
framing the garage. NOTE: We added an apron to the front of this
Another important design feature of this building garage. This optional slab will appear throughout
is its gambrel roof, which maximizes the usable the how-to photos.

DTP: LY Page: 104
THE GAMBREL ROOF
The gambrel roof is the defining feature of two structures in American architecture: the barn and the Dutch Colonial
house. Adopted from earlier English buildings, the gambrel style became popular in America during the early seventeenth
century and was used on homes and farm buildings throughout the Atlantic region. Today, the gambrel roof remains a
favorite detail for designers of sheds, garages, and carriage houses.
The basic gambrel shape has two flat planes on each side, with the lower plane sloped much more steeply than the upper.
More elaborate versions incorporate a flared eave known as a Dutch kick, that was often extended to shelter the front and
rear façades of the building. Barns typically feature an extended peak at the front, sheltering the doors of the hayloft. The
main advantage of the gambrel roof is the increased space underneath the roof, providing additional headroom for upper
floors in homes or extra storage space in outbuildings.
GARAGE PLANS 105

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 105
CUTTING LIST
DESCRIPTION QUANTITY/SIZE MATERIAL DESCRIPTION QUANTITY/SIZE MATERIAL

FOUNDATION ROOFING
Drainage material 1.75 cu. yds. Compactable gravel Roof sheathing 12 sheets @ 4 × 8' ½" plywood
Concrete slab 2.5 cu. yds. 3,000 psi concrete Shingles 3 squares 250# per square (min.)
Mesh 144 sq. ft. 6 × 6", W1.4 × W1.4 welded wire mesh 15# building paper 300 sq. ft.
WALL FRAMING Metal drip edge 2 @ 14', 2 @ 12' Galvanized metal
Bottom plates 4 @ 12' 2 × 4 pressure treated Roof vents (optional) 2 units
Top plates 8 @ 12' 2×4 WINDOW
Studs 47 @ 925⁄8" 2×4 Frame 3 @ 6' ¾ × 4" (actual) S4S cedar
Headers 2 @ 10', 2 @ 6' 2×8 Stops 4 @ 8' 1 × 2 S4S cedar
Header spacers 1 @ 9', 1 @ 6' ½" plywood—7" wide Glazing tape 30 linear ft.
Angle braces 1 @ 4' 2×4 Glass 1 piece—field measure ¼" clear, tempered
GABLE WALL FRAMING Exterior trim 3 @ 6' 1 × 4 S4S cedar
Plates 2 @ 10' 2×4 Interior trim (optional) 3 @ 6' 1 × 2 S4S cedar
Studs 7 @ 10' 2×4 DOOR
Header 2 @ 6' 2×6 Frame 2 @ 8' 1 × 6 S4S cedar
Header spacer 1 @ 5' ½" plywood—5" wide Door sill 1 @ 6' 1 × 6 S4S cedar
ATTIC FLOOR Stops 1 @ 8', 1 @ 6' 1 × 2 S4S cedar
Joists 10 @ 12' 2×6 Panel material 4 @ 8' 1 × 8 T&G V-joint S4S cedar
Floor sheathing 3 sheets @ 4 × 8' ¾" tongue-&-groove ext.-grade plywood Door X-brace/panel trim 4 @ 6', 2 @ 8' 1 × 4 S4S cedar
KNEEWALL FRAMING Exterior trim 1 @ 8', 1 @ 6' 1 × 4 S4S cedar
Bottom plates 2 @ 12' 2×4 Interior trim (optional) 1 @ 8', 1 @ 6' 1 × 2 S4S cedar
Top plates 4 @ 12' 2×4 Strap hinges 4
Studs 8 @ 10' 2×4 GARAGE DOOR
Nailers 2 @ 14' 2×8 Frame 3 @ 8' 1 × 8 S4S cedar
ROOF FRAMING Door 1 @ 8' × 6' - 8" Sectional flush door w/2" track
Rafters 28 @ 10' 2×4 Rails 2 @ 8' 2×6
Metal framing connectors—rafters 20, with nails Simpson H2.5 Trim 3 @ 8' 1 × 4 S4S cedar
Collar ties 2 @ 6' 2×4 FASTENERS
Ridge board 1 @ 14' 2×6 Anchor bolts 16 3
⁄8" × 8", with washers & nuts, galvanized
Lookouts 1 @ 10' 2×4 16d galvanized common nails 2 lbs.
Soffit ledgers 2 @ 14' 2×4 16d common nails 17 lbs.
Soffit blocking 6 @ 8' 2×4 10d common nails 2 lbs.
EXTERIOR FINISHES 10d galvanized casing nails 1 lb.
Plywood siding 14 sheets @ 4 × 8' ⁄8" Texture 1-11 plywood, grooves 8" O. C.
5
8d common nails 3 lbs.
Z-flashing—siding 2 pieces @ 12' Galvanized 18-gauge 8d galvanized finish nails 6 lbs.
Horizontal wall trim 2 @ 12' 1 × 4 cedar 8d box nails 6 lbs.
Corner trim 8 @ 8' 1 × 4 cedar 6d galvanized finish nails 20 nails
Fascia 6 @ 10', 2 @ 8' 1 × 6 cedar 3d galvanized box nails ½ lb.
Subfascia 4 @ 8' 1 × 4 pine ⁄8" galvanized roofing nails
7
2½ lbs.
Plywood soffits 1 sheet @ 10' ⁄8" cedar or fir plywood
3
2½" deck screws 24 screws
Soffit vents 4 @ 4 × 12" Louver w/ bug screen 1¼" wood screws 48 screws
Z-flashing—garage door 1 @ 10' Galvanized 18-gauge Construction adhesive 2 tubes
Silicone-latex caulk 2 tubes

DTP: LY Page: 106
BUILDING SECTION
1'-61⁄8" 8'-113⁄4" 1'-61⁄8"

2 × 6 Ridge
2 × 4 Collar, 32" O.C.
12
1
⁄2" Plywood roof sheathing
6
2 × 4 Rafter, 16" O.C.

Top of nailer
2'-85⁄8"
2'-71⁄8"
12 2 × 8 Nailer
24 2 × 4 Studs, 16" O.C.

5 1⁄ 2"
2 × 4 Bottom plate, set on joists

3
⁄4" Plywood, set
between plates
Rough opening
1 × 6 Fascia
2'-6"
2 × 6 Joists, 16" O.C.

8'-11⁄8"
8'-1 ⁄8"
1

6'-53⁄8"
2 - 2 × 8 Header
w/ 1⁄2" plywood spacer
2 × 4 Studs, 16" O.C.
31⁄2" Concrete slab on-grade
4" Compacted gravel

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 107
FLOOR PLAN
Roof lines shown dashed
2 × 4 Studs 16" O.C.
31⁄2" Floating concrete slab on-grade

w/ 6 × 6" - 10/10 W.W.M.
3'-6"
Rough opening
12'-0"
12'-0"
5'-0"
3'-6"
8' × 6'-8" Garage door
Rough opening
2'-0" 8'-0" 2'-0"
12'-0"
Dimensions are to outside faces of studs

DTP: LY Page: 108
RAFTER TEMPLATES
Lower rafter
12
Roof
slope
24
4'-6
1 2
⁄"
2 × 4 Rafter
3 1⁄ 8"
6 1⁄ 8"
1'-
3"
1 1⁄ 2" 1 3⁄ 8"
Upper rafter
12
Roof
slope 6
4'-1
0 3⁄4
"
2 × 4 Rafter
2 1⁄ 8"
3 1⁄ 2"

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 109
FRONT ELEVATION LEFT SIDE ELEVATION
Roof vent
Double door -
12 see detail
6
1 × 4 Trim
12 Asphalt shingles
1 × 6 Fascia
24
Pork chop
Flashing
1 × 4 Trim, 1 × 6 Fascia
mitered corners
1 × 4 Trim,
Texture 1-11 mitered corners
plywood siding
Texture 1-11
Flush overhead plywood siding
garage door
1 × 4 Trim 1 × 4 Trim
Window with
1
⁄4" clear
tempered glass
REAR ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE ELEVATION
12 Asphalt shingles
6
12 1 × 4 Trim
24
1 × 6 Fascia
1 × 6 Fascia
1 × 4 Trim 8"
1 × 4 Trim
Texture 1-11 Texture 1-11

plywood siding plywood siding

DTP: LY Page: 110
GABLE OVERHANG DETAIL GABLE OVERHANG RAFTER DETAILS
27°
Asphalt shingles over
15# building paper
1
⁄2" Plywood
18°
Metal drip edge
18°
2×4
Overhang rafters
1 × 6 Fascia
2 2 2
2 × 4 Rafter Overhang rafters
4 4 4 at front & rear
3
⁄8" Plywood soffit 2 4 (side view)
2 × 4 Lookouts, 10°
16" O.C.
8°
8"
Texture 1-11
plywood siding
2 × 4 Stud Outer overhang

16" O.C. rafter at front
(top view)
EAVE DETAIL FOUNDATION DETAIL
Anchors @ each rafter

2 × 4 Stud
Asphalt shingles Texture 1-11 plywood siding
over 15# building paper
3
⁄8" Anchor bolt,
1
⁄2" Plywood 8" long, 4'-O" O.C. max.
6" from corner
2 × 4 Rafter
2 4 2 × 4 Treated bottom plate
2 4 2 × 4 Stud 16" O.C. 31⁄2" Concrete
slab-on-grade. w/ 6 × 6" -
2 × 4 Soffit framing W1.4 × W1.4 W.W.M.
Metal drip edge 2 4

1"
1 × 4 Subfascia
3 1⁄ 2"
Grade
1 × 6 Fascia
8"
2 1
2 × 4 Soffit ledger
4 4
Soffit vent 2 - #4 Bars
3
⁄8" Plywood soffit
4" Compacted gravel
8"
Texture 1-11
plywood siding

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 111
ATTIC DOOR ELEVATION
4'-91⁄4"
1 × 4 Boards glued
and screwed to
1 × 8 boards
3'-2"
1 × 8 T&G V-JT
boards
Strap hinge
ATTIC DOOR JAMB DETAIL GARAGE DOOR TRIM DETAIL
1 × 2 Trim
3
⁄4" Frame
1 × 2 Stop 2 6
2 Sectional garage door
2 2
4
4 4 2 × 6 Rail
3
⁄4" Board door w/
1 × 6 Full-depth frame
1 × 4 brace
1
⁄4" 1
⁄4" 1 × 4 Trim
1 × 4 Trim
Texture 1-11
plywood siding
ATTIC DOOR SILL DETAIL WINDOW JAMB DETAIL
1 × 2 Stop Cut slope

for drainage
1 × 6 Frame, ripped to fit
⁄4"
T&G 1 × 8 door panel 1

⁄4"
3
1 × 2 Trim
3
⁄4" Plywood 1 × 2 Redwood stop
at window sill 1 × 2 Stop
2 2 × 6 Attic joists 16" O.C.
Glazing tape, both sides
1 × 4 Door stile & rail
Sloped stop @ still
Sloped sill cut 2
6 from 1 × 6 cedar
3
⁄4" × 4" Jamb
5° 2 4 4
1
⁄8" × 1⁄8" Drip edge
2 4
1 × 4 Trim
1
⁄4" Clear glass, tempered
1
⁄4"
1 × 2 Stop
2 × 4 Stud 1
⁄4"
1 × 4 Trim

DTP: LY Page: 112
FRONT FRAMING ELEVATION LEFT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION
2 × 6 Ridge
2 × 6 Ridge
4'-11 ⁄2"
1
Double 2 × 4 2 × 4 Collar tie -
Rough opening stud under ridge 32" O.C.
Gable wall top plate 2 × 4 Rafters

2 × 8 Nailer
2-2×6 2 × 6 Joists
Header w/1⁄2" 2 × 4 Rafters
Double
opening
plywood spacer
3'-41⁄4"
Rough
2 × 4 top plates 8"

2 × 6 Joists
2 × 4 Studs 2 × 4 Soffit
ledger Double 2 × 4
top plates
2×4
Rough opening
Angle brace, 2×4 8"
6'-8" Rough opening
Soffit ledger
2'-6"
installed @ 45°
8'-11⁄8"
2-2×8
2 - 2 × 8 Header
6'-0"
Header w/1⁄2"
w/1⁄2" plywood spacer
3'-113⁄8"
plywood spacer
2 × 4 Studs Double 2 × 4 sill
16" O.C.
2 × 4 Treated 2 × 4 Studs
bottom plate 16" O.C.
2'-0" 8'-0" 2'-0"
Rough opening 2 × 4 Treated
bottom plate
REAR FRAMING ELEVATION RIGHT SIDE FRAMING ELEVATION
2 × 6 Ridge
Double 2 × 4
stud under ridge
2 × 6 Ridge
12 2 × 8 Nailer 2 × 4 Collar tie, 14'-0" Ridge length

6 32" O.C.
Gable wall
12 top plate 2 × 4 Lookouts
16" O.C.
24 2 × 4 Rafters
2 × 4 Rafters
2 × 6 Joists 2 × 8 Nailer
2 × 6 Joists
2×4
Soffit blocking
Soffit ledger
8"
8'-11⁄8"
2×4 Double 2 × 4
Soffit ledger top plates
Double 2 × 4 2 × 4 Studs
top plates 16" O.C.
2 × 4 Treated
2 × 4 Studs
bottom plate
16" O.C.
2 × 4 Treated
bottom plate

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 113
How to Build the Gambrel Garage
1 2
F
Lay the slab foundation to 144" × 144". Set J-bolts into the Snap chalk lines on the slab for the wall plates. Cut two b
concrete 13⁄4" from the outer edges and extending 2½" from bottom plates and two top plates at 137" for the side walls. a
the surface. Set a bolt 6" from each corner and every 48" in Cut two bottom and two top plates at 144" for the front and j
between (except in the door opening). Let the slab cure for at rear walls. Use pressure-treated lumber for all bottom plates. t
least three days before you begin construction. Cut 38 studs at 925⁄8", plus 2 jack studs for the garage door at
78½" and 2 window studs at 757⁄8". O
t
NOTE: Add the optional slab now, as desired. k
3 4
Construct the built-up 2 × 8 headers at 99" (garage door) and Build the attic floor. Cut ten 2 × 6 joists to 144" long, then
63" (window). Frame, install, and brace the walls with double clip each top corner with a 1½"-long, 45° cut. Install the
top plates one at a time following the Floor Plan (page 108) joists as shown in the Framing Elevations drawings (page M
and Elevation drawings (page 110). Use galvanized nails to 113), leaving a 3½" space at the front and rear walls for t
attach the studs to the sole plates. Anchor the walls to the the gable wall studs. Fasten the joists with three 8d nails at (
J-bolts in the slab with galvanized washers and nuts. each end.

DTP: LY Page: 114
5 6
Frame the attic kneewalls. Cut four top plates at 144" and two Cover the attic floor between the kneewalls with ½" plywood.
bottom plates at 137". Cut 20 studs at 265⁄8" and 4 end studs Run the sheets perpendicular to the joists and stop them
at 335⁄8". Lay out the plates so the studs fall over the attic flush with the outer joists. Fasten the flooring with 8d ring-
joists. Frame the walls and install them 181⁄8" from the ends of shank nails every 6" along the edges and every 12" in the
the joists, then add temporary bracing. field of the sheets.
OPTION: You can begin building the roof frame by cutting

two 2 × 8 nailers to 144" long. Fasten the nailers to the
kneewalls so their top edges are 325⁄8" above the attic joists.
7 8
Mark the rafter layouts onto the top and outside faces of Cut the 2 × 6 ridgeboard at 168", mitering the front end at
the 2 × 8 nailers; see the Framing Elevations drawings 16°. Mark the rafter layout onto the ridge. The outer common
(page 113). rafters should be 16" from the front end and 8" from the rear
end of the ridge. (continued)
GARAGE PLANS 115

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 115
Use the Rafter Templates (page 109)
to mark and cut two upper pattern
rafters and one lower pattern rafter.
Use the patterns to mark the remaining
common rafters. For the gable
overhangs, cut an additional eight lower
and six upper rafters following the Gable
Overhang Rafter Details (page 111).
10
T
Install the common rafters. Nail the upper rafters to the ridge and kneewalls. Toenail a
the lower rafters to the nailers and wall plates. Reinforce the wall-plate connections c
with metal framing connectors. Nail the attic joists to the sides of the lower rafters. t
Cut four 2 × 4 collar ties at 34", mitering the ends at 26.5°. Fasten them between g
pairs of upper rafters, as shown in the Building Section (page 107) and Framing a
Elevations (page 113). r
11 12
Snap a chalk line across the side-wall studs, level with the Frame the gable overhangs. Cut twelve 2 × 4 lookouts at 5" and nail M
ends of the rafters. Cut two 2 × 4 soffit ledgers at 160" and them to the inner overhang rafters as shown in the Left and Right t
fasten them to the studs on top of the chalk lines, with their Side Framing Elevations. Install the inner overhang rafters over 3
ends overhanging the walls by 8". Cut twenty-four 2 × 4 the common rafters, using 10d nails. Cut the two front (angled) w
blocks to fit between the ledger and rafter ends, as shown in overhang rafters; see the Gable Overhang Rafter Details. Install g
the Eave Detail (page 111). Install the blocks. those rafters; then add two custom-cut lookouts for each rafter.

DTP: LY Page: 116
13 14
To complete the gable walls, cut top plates to fit between the ridge Install siding on the walls, holding it 1" below the top of the
and the attic kneewalls. Install the plates flush with the outer concrete slab. Add Z-flashing along the top edges and then
common rafters. Mark the stud layout onto the walls and gable continue the siding up to the rafters. Below the attic door
top plate; see the Front and Rear Framing Elevations. Cut the opening, stop the siding about 1⁄4" below the top wall plate, as
gable studs to fit and install them. Construct the built-up 2 × 6 shown in the Attic Door Sill Detail (page 112). Don’t nail the
attic door header at 62½"; then clip the top corners to match the siding to the garage door header until the flashing is installed
roof slope. Install the header with jack studs cut at 40¼". (Step 20).
Fascia
Sub-fascia
15 16
Mill 3⁄8"-wide × ¼"-deep grooves into the 1 × 6 boards for Install the 1 × 4 subfascia along the eaves, keeping the bottom
the horizontal fascia along the eaves and gable ends (about edge flush with the ends of the rafters and the ends flush with the
36 linear ft.); see the Eave Detail. Use a router or table saw outsides of the outer-most rafters; see the Eave Detail. Add the
with a dado-head blade to mill the groove, and make the milled fascia at the eaves, aligning the top of the groove with the
groove 7⁄8" above the bottom edge of the fascia. bottom of the subfascia. Cut fascia to wrap around the overhangs
at the gable ends but don’t install them yet. (continued)
GARAGE PLANS 117

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 117
I
m
Fascia
Pork chop
Soffit panel
Fascia
Soffit ledger Subfascia
Soffit panel 17 18
Add fascia at the gable ends, holding it up 1⁄2" to be flush with Sheath the roof starting at one of the lower corners. Add metal
the roof sheathing. Cut soffit panels to fit between the fascia drip edge along the eaves, followed by building paper; then
and walls, and fasten them with 3d galvanized nails. Install the add drip edge along the gable ends over the paper. Install the
end and return fascia pieces at the gable overhangs. Enclose asphalt shingles (see pages 55 to 58). Plan the courses so the
each overhang at the corners with a triangular piece of grooved roof transition occurs midshingle, not between courses; the
fascia (called a pork chop) and a piece of soffit material. Install overlapping shingles will relax over time. If desired, add roof
the soffit vents as shown in the Eave Detail (page 111). vents (pages 58 to 59).
19 20
F
o
f
t
Cover the Z-flashing at the rear wall with horizontal 1 × 4 For the garage door frame, rip 1 × 8 trim boards to width so t
trim. Finish the four wall corners with overlapping vertical they cover the front wall siding and 2 × 6 rails, as shown s
1 × 4 trim. Install the 2 × 6 rails that will support the garage in the Garage Door Trim Detail (page 112). Install the trim, n
door tracks following the door manufacturer’s instructions to mitering the pieces at 22.5°. Install the 1 × 4 trim around the t
determine the sizing and placement; see the Garage Door outside of the opening, adding flashing along the top. See the s
Trim Detail (page 112). Front Elevation (page 110). t

DTP: LY Page: 118
Install the garage door in the door opening following the
manufacturer’s directions.
22
Build the window frame, which should be 1⁄2" narrower and

shorter than the rough opening. Install the frame using shims
and 10d galvanized casing nails, as shown in the Window
Jamb Detail (page 112). Cut eight 1 × 2 stop pieces to fit the
frame. Bevel the outer sill stop for drainage. Order glass to
21 fit or cut your own plastic panel. Install the glazing and stops
using glazing tape for a watertight seal. Add the window trim.
24
23
For the attic door frame, rip 1 × 6s to match the depth of the Build the attic doors as shown in the Attic Door Elevation
opening and cut the head jamb and side jambs. Cut the sill (page 112), using glue and 11⁄4" screws. Each door measures
from full-width 1 × 6 stock; then cut a kerf for a drip edge (see 285⁄8" × 38", including the panel braces. Cut the 1 × 8 panel
the Attic Door Sill Detail, page 112). Fasten the head jamb to boards about 1⁄8" short along the bottom to compensate for the
the side jambs and install the sill at a 5° slope between the sloping sill. Install the door with two hinges each. Add 1 × 4
side jambs. Install the door frame using shims and 10d casing horizontal trim on the front wall up against the doorsill; then
nails. Add shims or cedar shingles along the length of the sill trim around both sides of the door frame. Prime and paint
to provide support underneath. The front edge of the frame as desired.
should be flush with the face of the siding. Add 1 × 2 stops at
the frame sides and top 3⁄4" from the front edges.
GARAGE PLANS 119

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 119
DTP: LY Page: 120
Remodeling
a Garage
Y ou don’t have to build a new garage to have a new

garage. You can easily update or alter the space
to make it look entirely different and support new
functions. Change the lighting, interior storage, and
work-area configurations to create an entirely new
room, or just tidy things up and give the structure
a sharp new organized look. In any case, a garage
remodel is limited only by budget and imagination.
In this chapter:
• The Garage Workshop
• Electrical & Lighting Improvements
• Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage
• Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures
• Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED
• Adding a Garage Window
• Installing a Skylight
• Walls & Storage
• Finishing Interior Walls
• Hanging Pegboard
• Installing Adjustable Shelving Systems
• Utility Shelves
• Installing Garage Cabinets
• Installing a Complete Slat-Wall Storage System
• Installing a Ceiling Storage Unit
• Adding a Custom Storage Loft
• Floor Improvements
• Garage Floor Treatments
• Installing Interlocking Floor Tiles
• Garage Door Openers
REMODELING A GARAGE 121

nd Edition
01-0903-1 DTP: LY Page: 121
The Garage Workshop
A ny workshop worth its salt

lives and dies on electricity.
Ideally, one 15-amp circuit should
BENCHED
Workbenches fall into three broad categories: traditional woodworking benches,
be dedicated to lighting alone. utility workbenches, and metalworking benches. They’re freestanding, so you
Read tool and equipment labels can position them wherever you need to and work around all four sides.
to determine how many amps
Woodworking benches are typically 2' wide and 4 to 6' long. The work surface
they draw at peak load, then use a tends to be a laminated hardwood that can withstand vibrations produced by
circuit rated 30 percent over this heavy pounding, while offering the added weight to keep the bench stationary.
number. Large stationary tools of Bench tops are often outfitted with a series of holes along one long edge or at
2 horsepower or more generally the end. Wood or metal pegs, called bench dogs, fit into the holes and work
require 220-volt power—at least with a vise to hold long boards or large work pieces.
a 30-amp circuit. If you’re not Utility workbenches are easy to build and are good for general woodworking
comfortable installing new circuits and home improvement. They can resemble woodworking styles, or be as
yourself, hire a licensed electrician. simple as a sheet of plywood laid on top of a closed cabinet or two. A utility
He can even install a subpanel in the workbench can be freestanding, or you can fasten it to wall studs. Your bench
garage, allowing you easier access to will be more useful with a vise, but clamps can work just as well.
the breakers that control the circuits.
Use heavy-gauge extension cords
in the shortest lengths possible for
your tools. (Longer or lower-gauge
cords may overheat.) Make sure any
cord is rated for greater amps than
the maximum load of the tool.
Clean air is just as important as Utility bench
electricity. If you’re using chemicals
such as stains and varnishes or
strippers in your workshop, ensure
you have a ventilation system that
includes intake near the floor and
an exhaust fan higher up. The fan
should be rated according to the
cubic feet of the garage and the Woodworking bench
number of air changes needed
per hour. These vary depending
on the type of contaminants
you are producing, but most fan
manufacturers include capacity
calculators on their websites. For
toxic fumes produced by certain
activities, such as running a kiln
Metalworking bench
or lead soldering, you may need a
dedicated hood fan with filter.

DTP: LY Page: 122
SAMPLE GARAGE WORKSHOP FLOOR PLANS
Sliding Door Rollup Door
Bandsaw Lathe
Planer
Drill Press
Jointer
Table Saw Miter Saw
Lumber Rack
Service Door Workbench (24 × 60") Shop

Vac
Air Compressor
Workbench
(30 × 80")
Bandsaw
Rolling tool chest
Router Table
Planer
Jointer
Drill Press
Sanding
Station
Outfeed Table
Rollup Door (storage cabinet under)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 123
SAMPLE GARAGE WORKSHOP FLOOR PLANS
Lathe
Table Saw
Dust Collector Air Compressor
E
I
m
Planer g
l
i
Jointer a
Miter Saw o
g
Workbench
w
i
Drill Press Service Door t
Bandsaw a
o
Rollup Door Rollup Door g
Rollup Door b
Table Saw
Service Door
Jointer Workbench
Bandsaw
Tool
Cabinet
Shop Planer
Vac
Sanding Station
Router Table
Drill Press
Dust Collector
Miter Saw Air Compressor

DTP: LY Page: 124
Electrical & Lighting Improvements
I f your garage has too few outlets or just a single

light bulb that hangs starkly from the ceiling, that
may be part of the reason why you don’t use your
and install circuit breakers. These are all the steps
you need to bring juice where you want it. Pages 127
to 133 provide practical instructions for extending
garage more often. It’s frustrating to work in a poorly service into your garage. If your garage suffers from
lit room and inconvenient to have to plug everything poor lighting, you’ll learn how to install new light
into extension cords. Truth be told, many garages fixtures or upgrade those you already own or add a
are built with just one or two outlets and a single new garage window or fixed skylight.
overhead light—just enough service to operate a If you are inexperienced with wiring or
garage door opener and get you in and out of your car. uncomfortable working with electricity, by all
Adding more outlets, lights, or even a skylight means hire a professional licensed electrican to
will dramatically improve the working conditions complete this work. Professionals can do the job
in your garage. Suddenly, you’ll be able to plug in all quickly and safely, and they secure the proper permit
those electric tools, add an air conditioner or heater, inspections. Even if you have the work performed by
and actually see what you’re working on. These sorts someone else, review the included wiring diagrams
of projects could be the keys to jump-starting that to familiarize yourself with your options. Draw up
garage workshop you’ve always dreamed about. a plan to determine where you’d like to have outlets
This section will show you how to install electrical and switches installed so you can share it with
boxes, run wire, connect receptacles and switches, the electrician.
You can vastly improve garage lighting by upgrading to an

8' fixture, such as this fluorescent unit, or by upgrading a
fluorescent fixture to more energy-efficient LED tubes (see
page 136).

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 125
Wiring Safety
N
a
g
i
Shut power OFF at the main service Confirm power is OFF by testing at Wear rubber‑soled shoes while working on e
panel or the main fuse box before the outlet, switch, or fixture with a electrical projects. On damp floors, stand
b
beginning any work. current tester. on a rubber mat or dry wooden boards.
t
Install a green insulated grounding
y
Grounding Screw Grounding Clip
wire for any circuit that runs through a
metal conduit. Although code allows
the metal conduit to serve as the f
grounding conductor, most electricians t
install a green insulated wire as a more
dependable means of grounding the
d
system. The grounding wires must be m
connected to metal boxes with a pigtail p
and grounding screw (left) or grounding a
clip (right). d
p
The ground‑fault
circuit‑interrupter, or GFCI
receptacle, is a modern safety
device. When it detects slight
changes in current, it instantly
shuts off power.
Learn about codes. The National Electrical Code (NEC), and

local electrical and building codes, provide guidelines for
determining how much power and how many circuits your
home needs. Your local electrical inspector can tell you which
regulations apply to your job.

DTP: LY Page: 126
Bringing Electrical Service to a Garage
N othing improves the convenience and usefulness

of a garage more than electrifying it. Running
a new underground circuit from your house to the
For basic electrical needs, such as powering a
standard light fixture and small appliances or power
tools, a 15-amp circuit should be sufficient. However,
garage lets you add receptacles and light fixtures both if you plan to run power-hungry equipment like
inside the outbuilding and on its exterior. stationary woodworking or welding tools, you may
Adding an outdoor circuit is not complicated, but need one or more dedicated 20-amp circuits. Also, if
every aspect of the project is strictly governed by local the shed is more than 50 feet away from the house,
building codes. Therefore, once you’ve mapped out you may need heavier-gauge cable to account for
the job and have a good idea of what’s involved, visit voltage drop.
your local building department to discuss your plans Most importantly, don’t forget to call before
and obtain a permit for the work. you dig. Have all utility and service lines on your
This project demonstrates standard techniques property marked even before you make serious
for running a circuit cable from the house exterior project plans. This is critical for your safety, of
to the garage, plus the wiring and installation of course, and it may affect where you can run the
devices inside the building. The building department circuit cable.
may recommend or require using a GFCI breaker to
protect the entire circuit. Alternatively, you may be WARNING: All electrical work must be reviewed
allowed to provide GFCI protection to the circuit and passed by a building inspector. Unless you have
devices via the receptacle inside the garage. GFCI experience, electrical installations should be done
protection is required on all outdoor circuits. by a licensed electrician.
A well‑outfitted garage workshop such as this one

requires a lot of power. Make sure the electrical
circuits serving the structure will serve all your
needs and then some.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 127
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Spray paint Pipe straps Utility knife
Trenching shovel (4"-wide blade) Silicone caulk and caulk gun Wire stripper
4" metal junction box Double-gang boxes, metal UF two-wire cable (12 gauge)
Metal L-fittings (2) and conduit One exterior receptacle box NM two-wire cable (12 gauge)
nipple for IMC conduit (with cover) 15-amp GFI-protected circuit breaker
Wood screws Single-pole switches Pliers
IMC conduit with watertight threaded Interior ceiling light fixture Screwdrivers
and compression fittings and metal fixture box
Wire connectors
Wrenches Exterior motion detector fixture
Hand tamper
Hacksaw and plastic fixture box
Masking tape
90° sweeps for IMC conduit EMT metal conduit and fittings
for inside the shed Grease pencil
Plastic conduit bushings
Drill and bit Scraps of lumber
I
a
b
Rigid IMC or EMT conduit from service box
t
r
Ceiling light
Security light
12/2 NM EMT conduit
Switches
L-body
12/2 NM EMT conduit

GFCI (covered)
Schedule 80 conduit Schedule 80 conduit
90° sweep UF cable 90° sweep
A
A basic outdoor circuit starts with a waterproof fitting at the house wall connected to a junction box inside. The underground p
circuit cable—rated UF (underground feeder)—runs in an 18"- to 24"-deep trench and is protected from exposure at both a
ends by metal or PVC conduit. Inside the garage, standard NM cable runs through metal conduit to protect it from damage (not a
necessary if you will be adding interior wall coverings). All receptacles and devices in the garage must be GFCI protected. j

DTP: LY Page: 128
How to Supply Electrical Service to a Garage
1 2
Identify the circuit’s exit point at the house and entry point From outside, drill a hole through the exterior wall and the rim
at the garage and mark them. Mark the path of the trench joist at the exit point for the cable (you’ll probably need to
between the exit and entry points using spray paint. Make install a bit extender or an extralong bit in your drill). Make the
the route as direct as possible. Dig the trench to the depth hole just large enough to accommodate the L-body conduit
required by local code using a narrow trenching shovel. fitting and conduit nipple.
3 4
Assemble the conduit and junction box fittings that will From outside, seal the hole around the conduit with
penetrate the wall. Here, we attached a 12" piece of 3⁄4" conduit expandable spray foam or caulk, and then attach the free
and a sweep to a metal junction box with a compression fitting, end of the conduit to the back of a waterproof L-body fitting.
and then inserted the conduit into the hole drilled in the rim Mount the L-body fitting to the house exterior with the open
joist. The junction box is attached to the floor joist. end facing downward. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 129
5 6 7
Cut a length of IMC to extend from the Inside the shed, drill a 3⁄4" dia. hole in Run conduit from the exterior box down I
L-fitting down into the trench using the shed wall. On the interior of the into the trench. Fasten the conduit s
a hacksaw. Deburr the cut edges of garage, mount a junction box with an to the building with a strap. Add a r
the conduit. Secure the conduit to the open back to allow the cable to enter 90° sweep and bushing, as before. w
L-fitting, then attach a 90° sweep to through the hole. On the exterior side Secure the conduit to the box with an
the bottom end of the conduit using directly above the end of the UF trench, offset fitting. Anchor the conduit with
compression fittings. Add a bushing mount an exterior-rated receptacle box pipe straps, and seal the entry hole
to the end of the sweep to protect the with cover. The plan is to bring power with caulk.
circuit cable. Anchor the conduit to the into the garage through the hole in the
wall with a corrosion-resistant pipe strap. wall behind the exterior receptacle.
8 9 C
c
Run underground feeder (UF) cable from the house to the Lay the UF cable into the trench, making sure it is not twisted t
outbuilding. Feed one end of the UF circuit cable up through and will not contact any sharp objects. Roll out the cable c
the sweep and conduit and into the L-fitting at the house (the and then feed the other end of the cable up through the s
back or side of the fitting is removable to facilitate cabling). conduit and into the receptacle box in the garage, leaving t
Run the cable through the wall and into the junction box, 12" of slack.
leaving at least 12" of extra cable at the end.

DTP: LY Page: 130
10 11
Inside the garage, install the remaining boxes for the other Connect the electrical boxes with conduit and fittings. Inside the
switches, receptacles, and lights. With the exception of plastic garage, you may use inexpensive EMT to connect receptacle,
receptacle boxes for exterior exposure, use metal boxes if you switch, and fixture boxes. Once you’ve planned your circuit
will be connecting the boxes with metal conduit. routes, start by attaching couplings to all of the boxes.
12 13 14
Cut a length of conduit to fit between the If you are surface mounting the conduit Measure to find how much NM cable
coupling and the next box or fitting in or running it up or down next to wall you’ll need for each run, and cut a
the run. If necessary, drill holes for the studs, secure it with straps no more piece that’s a foot or two longer. Before
conduit through the centers of the wall than 3' apart. Use elbow fittings for 90° making L-turns with the conduit, feed
studs. Attach the conduit to the fitting turns and setscrew couplings for joining the cable through the first conduit run.
that you attached to the first box. straight lengths as needed. Make holes
through the wall studs only as large as
necessary to feed the conduit through. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 131
15 16 17
Feed the other end of the cable into the Once you’ve reached the next box in line, Make the wiring connections at the
next box or fitting in line. It is much coil the end of the cable and repeat receptacles. Strip 3⁄4" of insulation from the
easier to feed cable into 45° and 90° the process with new cable for the next circuit wires using a wire stripper. Connect
elbows if they have not been attached run. Keep working until all of the cable the white (neutral) wire and black (hot)
to the conduit yet. Continue feeding is run and all of the conduit and fittings wire of the UF cable to the LINE screw
cable into the conduit and fitting until are installed and secured. If you are terminals on the receptacle. Connect the
you have reached the next box in line. running multiple cables into a single white (neutral) and black (hot) wires from
box, write the origin or destination on the NM cable to the LOAD terminals.
a piece of masking tape and stick it to Pigtail the bare copper ground wires and
each cable end. connect them to the receptacle ground R
terminal and the metal box. Install the o
receptacle and cover plate. i
i
r
18
Neutral wires
Grounding wires
Continue installing receptacles in the circuit run, and then run

Hot wires service from the last receptacle to the switch box for the light
fixture or fixtures. (If you anticipate a lot of load on the circuit,
you should probably run a separate circuit for the lights.)
Twist the white neutral leads and grounding leads together
and cap them. Attach the black wires to the appropriate
Box grounding screw switches. Install the switches and cover plate.
Receptacle grounding screw 19

VARIATION: Installing a GFCI-protected breaker for the new
circuit at the main service panel is the best way to protect
the circuit and allows you to use regular receptacles in the
building. An alternative that is allowed in many areas is
to run the service into a GFCI-protected receptacle, and T
then wire the other devices on the circuit in series. If you f
use this approach, only the initial receptacle needs to be Install the light fixtures. For this garage, we installed a caged i
GFCI protected. ceiling light inside the garage and a motion-detector security n
light on the exterior side. r

DTP: LY Page: 132
20 21
e
t
Run NM cable from the electrical box in the house at the start At the service panel, feed the NM cable in through a cable
of the new circuit to the main service panel. Use cable staples clamp. Arrange for your final electrical inspection before you
if you are running the cable in floor joist cavities. If the cable install the breaker. Then attach the wires to a new circuit
is mounted to the bottom of the floor joists or will be exposed, breaker and install the breaker in an empty slot. Label the
run it through conduit. new circuit on the circuit map.
22 23
Turn on the new circuit and test all of the receptacles and Lay narrow scraps of lumber over the cable in the trench as
fixtures. Depress the Test button and then the Reset button if you an extra layer of protection from digging, and then backfill
installed a GFCI receptacle. If any of the fixtures or receptacles is with dirt to cover. Replace the sod in the trench if you
not getting power, check the connections first, and then test the saved it.
receptacle or switch for continuity with a multimeter.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 133
Installing Fluorescent Light Fixtures
A side from natural lighting, fluorescent lights are

the most economical way to brighten up your
garage. The fixtures are relatively inexpensive, the
Although it might be tempting to buy economy
fixtures, you get better value and performance in the
long run if you invest in industrial-grade fluorescents.
bulbs burn for thousands of hours before they need These fixtures have cold-weather ballasts that start
replacement, and fluorescent lights use a fraction of immediately in the winter, and they won’t flicker or
the energy of incandescent bulbs. If you buy bulbs buzz as loudly as economy lights. The ballasts also
rated as daylight in the 3,000 kelvin range, you’ll have last much longer than those in bargain-priced lights.
bright, white light that will make excellent ambient or
task lighting for a garage.
In this project, we show you how to install an P
8-foot fluorescent ceiling fixture, but you can follow R
the same procedure for mounting shorter fixed 4-foot a
t
lamps, or 8-foot fixtures with multiple 4-foot lamps.
Either way, once you disassemble the fixture to hang N
it, you’ll want to work with a helper. The fixtures are s
bulky and fairly delicate. If your only option is to work y
alone, consider renting a wallboard lift to hold the
fixture against the ceiling while you fasten it in place.
You might wonder how to determine the number
of fixtures you need for your garage. The rule of
thumb is one overhead fixture will illuminate an area
that extends about 4 feet out from the fixture in all
directions. So, a single 4-foot light will illuminate
approximately 96 square feet of floor space below it.
You’ll want to have at least two 4-foot fixtures for a
single-car garage and four 4-foot or two 8-foot fixtures
for a two-car garage. Of course, adding more fixtures
only helps, particularly if you want to eliminate most
or all of the shadows in your garage workspace. If
you install the minimum number of ceiling fixtures,
supplement the overhead lighting with windows and
additional task lights where you need them.
TOOLS & MATERIALS

A
Stepladder Combination tool d
i
Tape measure Fluorescent fixture m
Stud finder Cable clamp n
t
Drill Wire connectors An 8'‑long fluorescent light fixture can illuminate your entire t
Screwdriver garage. This model has a heavy-duty ballast that withstands m
cold weather, making it a good choice for a garage setting. f

DTP: LY Page: 134
How to Install a Hard-Wired Light Fixture
1 2
Prepare the fixture box for installation by removing the knockout in the box that will align with the electrical box in the ceiling.
Raise the fixture to the ceiling. Although fluorescent fixtures are not especially heavy, once you’ve removed the diffuser, there is
a danger they will buckle. Have a helper support the other end of the fixture. Position it against the ceiling, threading the end of
the cable through the cable clamp installed in the light fixture knockout.
NOTE: The light fixture must be supplied with 120-volt power from a ceiling box with 12- or 14-gauge NM cable. The cable
should be routed through finished walls or through conduit, and it should originate from a switch next to the service door. If
you do not have wiring experience, hire a professional to provide power to the fixture box. Shut power OFF at the service panel.
3 4 5
Attach the fixture box to the ceiling by Make wiring connections. Connect the Install the bulb and test the fixture. If
driving screws through mounting holes bare copper ground in the NM cable everything works, remove the bulb
in the box and into ceiling framing to the grounding terminal on the fixture and install the deflector shield over the
members. If the mounting holes do box. (This may require a short pigtail wiring connections. Reinstall the bulb,
not align with rafters or trusses, mark wire.) Connect the black power wire and then attach the diffuser.
the holes, remove the fixture, and from the switch to the black fixture
then install toggle bolts. Or drill new wire with a wire connector. Connect the
mounting holes in the metal box at the white neutral from the switch box to the
framing member locations. white fixture wire.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 135
Converting a Fluorescent Fixture to LED
T he principal drawback to LED workshop lights is their expense. A

new fixture can be pricey. But there is a solution to save you money
and spare your existing fixture from cluttering up a landfill: converting a
TOOLS & MATERIALS
LED socket and wiring kits
fluorescent fixture to LED.
This is a simpler process than you might think. Basically, it involves LED tubes
just rewiring the fixture to bypass the ballast—which isn’t needed to Wire cutter and wire stripper
control new LED tubes. This is an entirely reasonable project, even for Nut driver or sockets
the DIYer who is not proficient in electrical issues. Although the fixture is Safety glasses
sometimes wired so that the entire circuit is contained in the tombstones
Non-contact voltage tester
(the tube sockets) on one side of the fixture to accommodate a “single-
end” LED tube, it’s more common and more straightforward to wire the Ladder
neutral to one side and the hot to the other for a “double-end” LED tube. Set of tombstones (optional)
In either case, it’s always a good idea to replace the tombstones in the
fixture. They are relatively inexpensive and incredibly easy to pop in and
Converting your garage’s fluorescent fixture
out, and new tombstones ensure that you won’t be dealing with shorts or
to LED tubes is an easy way to brighten
wiring problems in your newly converted fixture. the space, eliminate common ballast
Follow local regulations in disposing of the ballasts you remove from problems, and realize long-term value and
your fluorescent fixtures; many localities treat these as toxic waste. energy efficiency in your garage lighting.

DTP: LY Page: 136
GARAGE LIGHTING CHOICES
If your home is older, your garage may be lit by a bare-bulb incandescent fixture, the simplest lighting source.
Incandescents—and especially single-bulb fixtures—are generally inadequate for any garage. Even if you have an older
fluorescent fixture, the space is most likely underlit. Illumination aside, you should use the most energy-efficient fixtures
and bulbs possible. That’s why most garage facelifts start with new lighting. You’ll choose from several options—including
newer technologies that may represent better value for money over the long term.
• Incandescent. The least efficient lighting in terms of both illumination and energy consumption. Incandescent bulbs
are usually the worst choice for garage lighting. Their key selling point—a warm, yellow light that makes details
indistinct and cozy—is not a plus in a space where crisp, bright white light is preferable.
• Fluorescent. Fluorescent tube fixtures have Flood CFL Fluorescent T-8 tube lamp
Standard TC-14 11
become the standard workshop and garage watt CFL
CFL
light because they are inexpensive, long-
lasting, and energy-efficient; and the light
is conducive to detailed work. Fluorescent
tubes provide a diffuse, even light that is
excellent for a garage, and the tubes can
last ten times longer than comparable Bulb-shaped
incandescent bulbs. The downside is that CFL
they contain temperamental ballasts, the
mechanism that controls the current going
to the bulbs. In less expensive or older
fluorescent fixtures, the ballasts often
make an annoying buzzing sound when Fluorescent
Candelabra T-5 tube
the lights are on, and are prone to failure
lamp
or misfiring that causes bulbs to flicker
T-9 30 Watt CFL
and can shorten their lifespan. This is
especially true in colder temperatures, and
temperature variations can play havoc with fluorescent lights. When a ballast fails and dies, it usually means buying a
new fixture because a new ballast costs almost the same as a new fixture. More expensive, higher quality fixtures with
“industrial” ballasts are a necessity in any part of the country where the thermometer dips below freezing on a regular
basis, or where you want reliable service from the fixture for years to come. Although 8' fixtures often best serve the
needs of a garage as a central fixture, buy one that uses 4' bulbs, which are much easier to handle and change.
• Compact Fluorescent (CFL). If you’ve decided to stick with your existing incandescent fixtures, you can still make them
more efficient. Compact fluorescent bulbs are just smaller versions of the tubes that are used in a fluorescent light
fixture, with a screw base that allows the bulbs to be used as direct replacements for incandescent bulbs. They offer
the same advantages as tubes—longer life and lower energy use.
• LED. LED (light emitting diode) bulbs are highly efficient, creating more light with less energy than either incandescent
or fluorescent bulbs. Emitting a strong, bright, cool white light, LEDs are miniature semiconductors that turn electrical
current into directed light, called Solid State Lighting (SSL). An LED bulb is 85 percent more efficient than a comparable
incandescent bulb, and 10 percent more efficient than a comparable compact fluorescent (CFL) bulb. LEDs are
brighter, and cooler (more blue and white) than the light from an incandescent bulb, but are also less harsh than most
fluorescent or CFL bulbs. The light will clearly define shapes and details, but won’t irritate the eyes over long periods
of exposure. The bulbs are designed with internal or external heat sinks, so that they emit far less heat than even an
incandescent bulb. LED bulbs are available as direct replacements for incandescent bulbs, as well as tubes that can be
swapped in a plug-and-play fashion for T8 and T12 fluorescent tubes. However, any LED will be much more expensive
than a comparable incandescent or fluorescent bulb, and direct-replacement LED tubes are the most expensive of all.
In addition, any malfunction of the ballast will render the light inoperable. That’s why many people buy less expensive
replacement LED tubes and remove the ballast for direct wiring in the fixture, modifying it for the LEDs (see Converting
a Fluorescent Fixture to LED, page 138). You can also buy complete LED fixtures meant for garage and workshop use.
These can represent the best value and least effort where you’re replacing an existing fixture that no longer works.
Keep in mind that both fluorescent fixtures and LED fixtures are available as hardwired or plug-in units—which may be
your only option in a garage with no ceiling and just a wall outlet. You’ll spend a little more for a plug-in model, but the
ease may be worth it. Most plug-in units can also be adapted for hardwiring, if you choose.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 137
How to Convert a Fluorescent Fixture to LED
1 2
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes in the event a bulb Remove any covers or panels on the light fixture that conceal
breaks. Turn off the power to the garage at the breaker box the wiring and ballast. Locate and identify all wiring; ground
and test the light switch to make sure there is no power to the should be green or bare; white, neutral; and black, live.
light fixture. (If the fixture is not hardwired, simply unplug it.) Double-check that all the power is off to the fixture with a
Remove the existing fluorescent bulbs. non-contact voltage tester. Unscrew the wire connectors and
separate the wires.
NOTE: LEDs are sometimes sold in solid cardboard tubes;
if so, use the tubes to hold the removed fluorescent bulbs
for transport.
3 4
Cut the wires emanating from the ballast. Unscrew the Reconnect the neutral wire (the white in this case) feeding into
ballast and discard it, following local regulations concerning the fixture to the leads from the tombstones (bulb sockets) on
toxic waste. one side. Do the same with the hot wire (black in this case) I
feeding into the fixture, connecting it with leads from the t
opposite tombstones. Cut any mangled wire ends and strip t
the wires so that you have leads to work with. t

DTP: LY Page: 138
SINGLE‑ENDED LED TUBES
Be careful when buying LED tubes, because there are several types, including single-end LEDs that are powered on only
one end. Double-ended are generally no more expensive and are easier to install. If you use a single-end tube, you’ll need
to wire both the neutral and hot wires to the wires on the tombstones on one side of the fixture. This may require you to
replace the tombstones (they are slid in place and held by ridges on the sides and are easy to pop out).
Twist the ends of

the connections
5 on both sides with
wire connectors
until the
connectors are
hand-tight. Gently
tug on each of the
wires to ensure
they are securely
locked into the
wire connector.
6 7
Install an LED tube into the fixture, turn the power on, and Replace the wire and ballast covers, making sure that none
test to see that all tombstones are live and getting power and of the wires are pinched or crimped. Replace the bulbs, turn
that there are no short circuits. Turn the power off again at on the power at the breaker box, and test the fixture one
the breaker. final time.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 139
Adding a Garage Window
A rtificial lighting is only one option for illuminating

your garage. Another sensible approach is to add a
window or two. No matter which direction your garage
faces, a window increases the ambient lighting during
daylight hours. Any window size and style can work in
a garage, but smaller windows are less vulnerable to
break-ins. If you want your garage window to serve as
a source of ventilation as well as light, a double-hung
style will allow breezes from all directions and it won’t
project out from the garage when it’s open. Be sure to
buy insect screens for your new window.
This project shows you how to install a flange-
style window in a finished garage wall. The process R
involves locating the window on the inside wall, w
removing wallboard and existing framing, and then w
a
framing a new rough opening for the window. Once
c
the exterior wall is opened up and the window is w
mounted, you patch the siding and interior wall
surfaces to complete the job. Correct flashing and
caulking techniques are critical to keep moisture out,
so follow those steps carefully.
Be sure to defer to the installation manual that
comes with your new window if the instructions differ
Add a window to a dark garage to increase natural light.
from those you see here. Failing to do that and installing Although hopper-style windows and fixed windows are
the window incorrectly could void the product common in garages, a double-hung such as this offers
warranty and lead to leaks or a shorter service life. better ventilation.
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Work gloves & eye protection Circular saw 2× framing lumber
Utility knife Reciprocating saw Self-adhesive flashing
Straightedge Flat pry bar Window
Tape measure Caulk gun Shims
Marker Chalk line Silicone caulk
Level Aviation snips 11⁄2" roofing nails
Combination square Common nails Metal drip edge
Hammer (10d, 16d) Brickmold C
Stepladder Panel adhesive Case moldings p
1
⁄2" plywood t

DTP: LY Page: 140
How to Add a Garage Window
1 2
Remove wall coverings in the installation area. Lay out the location for the new Mark the rough opening width on the
window on the wall first, according to the rough opening requirements for the sole plate of the garage wall. Mark
window unit you purchased. Extend the opening to the next wall stud on each side, locations for jack studs and king studs
and mark the centers of the studs to outline the removal area. Remove the wall just outside the rough opening marks.
covering material all the way from the ceiling to the floor in the removal area. This
will create access for framing the window opening.
3 4 5
Cut and attach the king studs to the sole Plumb the tops of the king studs with a Mark the top of the rough opening onto
plate using 10d common nails driven level and then mark the edges onto the the king studs, measuring up from the
toenail style. cap plate. Toenail the king studs to the floor. Cut the jack studs to this length.
cap plate. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 141
6 7
Measure and mark the top of the header and sill locations Cut the old studs along the top and bottom cutting lines using
on the king studs and then transfer the lines across the old a circular saw set to full cutting depth. Finish the cuts with a I
studs in the rough opening area by positioning a straightedge reciprocating saw or handsaw. Pry out the cut studs with a flat j
between the header marks on the king studs. This creates a pry bar. t
pair of cutting lines on each old stud. A
t
8 9
2×6
1
⁄2" plywood
Make the header. For most garages, a window or door header Facenail the jack studs to the king studs, making sure the tops
made from a pair of 2 × 6s sandwiched around a strip of align with the layout lines for the bottom of the header (the
1
⁄2" plywood meets code requirements, but be sure to check header will rest on the tops of the jack studs). M
with your local building department. Apply panel adhesive c
between all the parts, and drive 16d nails through both faces n
at regular intervals to secure the header parts. a

DTP: LY Page: 142
10 11
Install the header. Set the header (step 8) onto the tops of the Install a doubled sill. Attach one sill member by facenailing
jack studs. Attach it to the king studs by facenailing through down and into the tops of the cripple studs. Then, facenail the
the king studs and into the header with 10d common nails. second sill plate to the first. Also toenail the top sill to the jack
Also toenail through the cut studs (called cripple studs) above studs. Finally, cut two cripple studs and install them beneath
the header. the ends of the sill.
12 13
Mark the rough opening on the exterior wall. First, drive a 10d Cut through the wall with a reciprocating saw, following the
casing nail through the siding at each corner of the opening, cutting lines for the rough opening. Make your cutting lines as
nailing from inside the garage. Then on the exterior side, snap straight as you can.
a chalk line between the nails to outline the opening. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 143
14 15
Mark the siding around the opening for trimming to create a Remove the siding along the cutting lines. Vinyl, wood, or N
recess for the window nailing flange and also the brickmold steel lap siding can be cut with a trim saw or circular saw. 1
trim that will be installed (it is preinstalled on some windows). Other siding types, such as stucco or brick, require more d
You need to temporarily set the window into the opening to complicated techniques. Check with a contractor or refer f
trace the cutting lines. to other resources for more information. Remove all wall F
coverings down to the wall sheathing. c
16 17
Flash the rough opening by installing self-adhesive flashing or Set the window in the opening. Insert wood shims beneath I
strips of building paper around the opening. Tuck the flashing the window and the sill and between the sides of the unit and t
beneath the siding next to the window opening. Flash the rough opening. Adjust the shims until the unit is level in the 4
sill first, then the side, and then the top so the strips overlap opening and the side gaps are even. i
from above. w
TIP: For an extra seal, apply a bead of silicone caulk to the (
back of the nailing flange before installing the window. b

DTP: LY Page: 144
18 19
Nail the window nailing flange to the framing members with Cut a piece of metal drip edge molding (also called drip cap or
11⁄2" roofing nails. Unless the manufacturer’s instructions window cap) and insert it behind the siding above the window.
direct otherwise, drive nails at corners and every 6" along the Use only caulk (no metal fasteners) to secure the drip edge.
flanges. Most flanges are predrilled with guide holes for nails.
For an extra seal, cut thin strips of self-adhesive flashing and
cover the flanges once the nails are driven.
20 21
Install brickmold if your window doesn’t have preinstalled Finish the interior side. Patch in with new drywall or reuse the
trim. Start with the top strip, miter cutting the ends at old drywall if possible. Then trim the window sill and jambs
45° to create miter joints with the side pieces. Then with mitered case molding.
install the sides. Install the bottom last. Attach brickmold
with 8 galvanized casing nails driven through pilot holes
(brickmold is prone to splitting). Caulk between the
brickmold and the siding.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 145
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Work gloves & Circular saw
eye protection Jigsaw
Tape measure Aviation snips
Miter saw 2× framing lumber
Installing a Skylight Hammer

Drill
Utility screws
1 × 4 board
Ladders Self-adhesive flashing
Chalk line
A skylight will brighten any room in your house, Skylight with flashings
including the garage. Skylights are reasonably
priced, and today’s new high-quality models have
improved flashing that makes them as dependable as you permanently support the cut rafters. If your
and weather-tight as other windows. Any standard garage has a truss roof, the skylight needs to fit
garage roof can accept a skylight, provided it has a between two trusses. Never alter your roof trusses
reasonable pitch (at least 3-in-12) and good drainage. to accommodate a wider skylight by cutting or
If your garage has an unfinished ceiling, you can removing parts of their framework. If your garage has
simply mount the skylight and let it provide general a heavy slate or clay tile roof, talk with an architect
ambient light. On finished ceilings, a skylight shaft is or building engineer regarding how to reinforce the F
needed to direct the light down into the garage, which new framing. s
will create a more focused area of light. If you install your garage skylight facing west or f
A skylight frame has a header and sill, similar south, it will receive the greatest amount of direct c
s
to a standard window frame. However, instead of sunlight, but the flip side is that the intensity of the m
king studs, it has king rafters as well as trimmers light could overheat your space. For that reason, y
that define the sides of the rough opening. Follow you may want to position it facing east or north t
the manufacturer’s instructions for determining the for cooler general room lighting. Since installing a
proper rough opening size for your new skylight. skylight requires working on the roof, carefully set up
With standard rafter-frame roof construction, stepladders and wear fall-arresting gear. The job will
you can safely cut into one or two rafters as long go much more smoothly and safely with a helper.
SKYLIGHTS IN THE GARAGE

Although they might not appear so at first glance, skylights can be an ideal addition for
the garage. Depending on where they’re placed and how big they are, a skylight can
bring more light into the interior of the garage than is possible with a side-wall window.
Skylights also offer better security than do garage windows. If you’re considering this
beneficial addition to your garage, there are few points to keep in mind.
• Choose position carefully. Although southern or western exposures are generally

preferred for maximum daylight inside the garage, keep in mind how and when
you use the garage. If strong sun during the hottest part of the day would make
your garage workshop too steamy for weekend projects, you might opt for a
northern or eastern exposure.
• Accommodate existing ceilings. If your garage has a finished ceiling, you’ll O

probably be faced with framing and sheathing a light shaft between the roof and t
the ceiling. If that seems like a bit more work than you want, consider a solar tube—a round skylight in the roof with a t
flexible, reflective metal tube that leads down to a lens that is simply installed in the ceiling. w
n
• Pick your skylight with weather in mind. A basic single-layer skylight will be an avenue for heat loss, something to r
consider if you’re weatherizing the garage for use in the colder months. Newer, pricier units with Low-E options or w
double glazing may be a better choice for you.

DTP: LY Page: 146
How to Install a Skylight
Mark the cutout area for the roof sheathing by driving a long
deck screw or a casing nail at each corner of the framed
opening on the interior side.
1
Frame the rough opening for the skylight according to the size
specifications provided with the unit. Skylights are sized so they
fit between 24 or 16" on-center roof members, so if you have
chosen a model wisely, you only need to install a header and a
sill to complete the rough framing. In most areas, single 2 × 4s
may be used for the rough frame. For aesthetic purposes or if
you will build a skylight shaft, however, you may prefer to use
the same width dimensional lumber as the rafters.
3 4
Outline the roof cutout by snapping chalk lines between Cut out the roof opening. Mount an old blade in a circular saw
the points of the deck screws driven at the corners of or cordless trim saw and plunge cut along the top and bottom
the opening. Be sure to follow good safety practices for cutting lines. Stop short of the corners so you don’t overcut. Before
working on roofs: wear shoes, such as tennis shoes, with making the side cuts, tack a long 1 × 4 across the opening,
nonskid soles; and use roof jacks and fall-arresting gear on perpendicular to the top and bottom cuts, driving a couple of
roofs with a pitch greater than 4-in-12. Also be aware of screws through the 1 × 4 and into the cutout area. The 1 × 4 will
weather conditions. keep the waste from falling into the garage through the hole. Make
the side cuts, and then finish the cuts at the corners with a jigsaw
or reciprocating saw. Remove the waste. (continued)

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DTP: LY Page: 147
5 6
Remove the shingles surrounding the opening, but try and Seal the bottom of the rough frame opening. Apply a strip I
maintain the integrity of the building paper beneath. Try to of self-adhesive flashing at the bottom of the roof opening S
salvage the shingles if you can so they can be reinstalled to create a seal on the curb and to cover the seam f
(they’ll match better than new shingles). Start with the row of between the underlayment and the roof deck. This is for r
shingles above the opening. Once these are removed you’ll extra protection. l
have access to the roofing nails on lower courses.
7 8
Position the skylight in the opening. Different models Fasten the skylight unit. Many models employ adjustable
use different fastening and centering devices. The one brackets like the ones seen here so the skylight can be raised or R
seen here is installed using pairs of adjustable brackets lowered and centered in the opening. The brackets seen here c
that are fastened to the roof deck and to the sides of the have a slot and several nail holes in the horizontal flange. Drive a n
skylight frame. ring shank nail in all four slots and then shift the unit side to side S
as necessary until it is centered in the opening. The brackets t
also allow the unit to be raised or lowered so the bottom edges
of the cladding are the recommended distance above the
finished roof surface (see manufacturer’s recommendations).

DTP: LY Page: 148
9 10
Install self‑adhesive flashing strips around the skylight curb. Install the metal flashing beginning with the sill. Some skylights
Start with the base strip, cutting slits in the corners so the have a four-piece flashing kit where the side flashing is simply
flashing extends all the way up the curb (you’ll need to shingled over. Others, like the one seen here, include solid
remove metal cladding strips first). Install the head flashing base and head flashing components and step flashing that is
last so all strips overlap from above. woven in with the shingles as the roof coverings are installed.
11 12 13
Replace shingles up to the skylight Install side flashing. Here, metal step Install the head flashing piece so it
curb. Install shingles in complete rows, flashing is interwoven with the shingles overlaps the last course of shingle
a notching them to fit around the curb. during the shingling process. Whether it’s and step flashing. Finish shingling in
e Stop once the granular surfaces of the the shingle layer or the step flashing layer, the installation area, again taking care
top row of shingles meet the curb. make sure that all components always not to nail through any metal flashing.
overlap from above and the horizontal Replace the metal cladding and caulk if
tabs on the step flashing are all covered recommended by the manufacturer.
with shingles. Do not nail through flashing.

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Walls & Storage
F ew upgrades make a garage look as sharp as newly

finished walls. Add the latest in stylish storage
units and you’ll have a space that rivals any room in the
Today’s garage storage solutions come in many
different styles and configurations. You can choose
simple adjustable shelves or wall-mounted hooks
house for pure good looks and absolute functionality. as the most basic options for general storage.
Finishing your garage walls provides almost instant Prefab wire loft structures allow you to store
satisfaction. You can easily finish cladding a garage’s seasonal items overhead and out of the way. These
walls in less than a weekend—including taping and are all inexpensive, unimpressive, and purely
coating the seams. Insulating to weatherize the useful possibilities.
structure is a natural companion project to finishing But if you’re willing to spend a little more time
the walls (and something it would be wise to consider and money, you can install all-in-one wall-mounted
carefully before you start, because insulating already storage with a place for anything you might want to
finished walls is a huge undertaking). Finishing the store in the garage. Today’s garage wall systems are all
garage ceiling is also usually done in tandem with the about organizing in style, with ease of use built right
walls, because exposed rafters detract from the look of in. The projects that follow represent the full range
finished garage walls. of storage options, and you’ll surely find one or more
Cladding these surfaces sets you up nicely to add a that meets your budget and organizes your garage to
range of storage. The possibilities are mind-boggling. suit your tastes and needs.
Add a variety of storage types to your garage to create places for everything you need to store in the garage. This garage features
cubbies for wood scraps, a work surface over drawers and metal bins, and plenty of shelves.

DTP: LY Page: 150
INSULATING YOUR GARAGE WALLS
Use faced fiberglass insulation batts to insulate your garage Work around obstacles in the wall cavities. For wiring
walls. Staple the backing tabs to the wall studs, driving a staple cables and conduit, split the batts by separating them into
every 8 to 10". The tabs should be perfectly flat against the two layers. Tuck the unfaced layer behind the cable or
studs to block air movement. Do not compress the insulation. conduit and then install the faced layer over both.
Fit the batts around electrical boxes by cutting the insulation Cut around windows and doors. Lay a batt on a piece of scrap
with scissors, not by stuffing it. Tuck a small piece of the plywood with the facing down. Set a wide straightedge, such
insulation behind the box if there’s room. as a metal rule, across the batt at the cutting point. Press
down on the straightedge to compress the insulation and
then slice through with a sharp utility knife. Be sure to wear
gloves and face protection (such as a respirator).

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Finishing Interior Walls
Whether or not to install finished interior walls on typically one of the more economical choices. But
your garage is mostly a matter of preference. The only because drywall is relatively susceptible to damage
time wall surfaces are required is when your garage from impact ( for example, from tools or bicycles) and
shares a wall with your house (an attached garage) doesn’t withstand exposure to moisture well, many
or if one of the walls in your detached garage runs homeowners choose other wall coverings for their
parallel to the house and is constructed within 3 feet garage. Exterior siding panels are thick enough to hold
of the house. In both cases only the shared or closest fasteners and withstand moisture well but are relatively
walls need to be finished to block the spreading of fire. costly, and most have a rougher texture that some find
Typically, a wall covering of ½-inch-thick (minimum) bothersome on interior spaces. Interior paneling has
drywall with taped seams is required. Some only minimal structural value and some styles are fairly
circumstances may demand that you install fire-rated, inexpensive, but it may be more visually pleasing to you.
Type X drywall or a double layer of drywall. The seams Plywood and oriented strand board (OSB) are
between drywall panels on fire-blocking walls must popular products for garage walls. Thicker panels
be finished with tape embedded in joint compound or (½ to ¾ inch thick) give excellent rigidity to the walls
with adhesive-backed fire-blocking tape. and are suitable for holding some fasteners. They
If the area above the garage is occupied by a can be left unfinished, clear-coated for protection
habitable room, the garage walls should be covered with polyurethane finish (or comparable), or you may
with ½-inch drywall to provide rigidity and structure, choose to paint them. A lighter colored wall paint in
and the ceiling should be finished with 5⁄8-inch-thick semigloss or gloss is a good choice. Sheet goods that
Type X drywall. Ceiling seams should be covered with have a pleasing color or woodgrain may be finished
tape and compound. Fastener heads do not need to with either a clear coating or a protective deck/siding
be covered with compound except for visual reasons. stain. Lauan plywood underlayment, for example, has
If your goal is to create a garage with walls that are a natural mahogany color that can be pleasing when
finished to interior standards or serve to prevent fire treated with a reddish exterior stain or clear coat. It is
spreading, then drywall is an excellent wall covering. also inexpensive, but it is thin (¼ inch on average) and
Although the price and availability of diverse building can only support very light-duty fasteners with little
materials fluctuates rather dramatically, drywall is load, such as a stickpin holding a wall calendar.
Finishing your garage walls

with drywall or other
panel products improves
the appearance of your
garage and also can serve
practical functions such
as forming a fire block
or concealing wiring
or plumbing.

DTP: LY Page: 152
FINISHING GARAGE WALLS
Fire‑rated drywall (Type X) is often required on walls Tape the seams in fire‑rated walls. If you are installing fire-
that separate the garage and house, but more often it is rated drywall that won’t be painted, you can save time and
installed on garage ceilings when a habitable space is effort by using self-adhesive firewall tape.
located above the garage.
A B C D
H G F E
Sheet goods that may be used for interior garage walls include: (A) siding panels (T1-11 shown); (B) fiber-cement siding
panels; (C) 3⁄4" interior grade plywood; (D) 1⁄4"-thick underlayment (lauan shown); (E) cedar siding panels; (F) oriented strand
board; (G) hardwood plywood (birch shown); (H) drywall (1⁄2" shown).

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How to Hang Drywall in a Garage
1 2
Begin installing drywall panels in a corner. You can install the Cut drywall pieces to fit around doors and windows. Take B
panels vertically or horizontally, depending on the wall height special care if you are covering a firewall since any gaps will A
and how much cutting is involved. Garage walls are seldom a need to be filled with joint compound and taped over. Make w
standard 8', as are interior walls. If you are finishing a ceiling with straight cuts that run full width or length by scoring through p
drywall, cover the ceiling first so you can press the tops of the the face paper with a utility knife and then snapping along the n
wall panels up against the ceiling panels. This helps support the scored line. Finish the cut by slicing through the paper of the c
ends of the ceiling panels. Drive 11⁄4" drywall screws every 16". back face.
3 4
Mark and make cutouts for electrical and utility boxes. Use a Cover seams between drywall panels with joint compound; use U
drywall saw, key hole saw, or spiral-cutting saw to make the drywall tape on walls that serve as firewalls. Cover tape with b
cutouts. Make sure the edges of the front boxes are flush with two layers of feathered-out joint compound and then cover A
the face of the drywall (move the boxes, if necessary). Finish all fastener heads if you will be painting the walls. Give the b
installing all panels. panels a coat of drywall primer before painting. h

DTP: LY Page: 154
How to Finish Walls with Sheathing
1 2
Begin installing full panels of sheathing at one corner. Make cutouts for boxes with a jigsaw. Cut panels to fit
Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the faces of the using a circular saw for straight cuts and the jigsaw for any
wall studs before installing each panel. For best holding other interior cuts. Install all wall panels, making sure the
power, use drywall screws or deck screws instead of finish seams fall at wall stud locations. Leave gaps of 1⁄8 to 1⁄4"
nails or pneumatic nails. Drive the screws so the heads are between panels.
countersunk just below the wood surface.
3 4
Use screen retainer strips or T‑molding to cover the seams Paint the sheathing with a semigloss or gloss paint that’s easy
between sheathing panels if you will be painting the walls. to clean and will reflect light well. Use a paint roller or a high-
Attach the strips with panel adhesive and brad nails. Sand volume low-pressure sprayer to apply the paint. Apply two or
back any splinters around fastener heads and then cover the three thin coats.
heads with joint compound or wood putty.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 155
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Eye protection Stud finder
Hanging Pegboard Marker

Tape measure
Level
Drill
Circular saw Pegboard panels
Straightedge 1 × 2 lumber
P egboard, also called perforated hardboard
or perfboard, is one of the simplest and least
expensive storage solutions for hanging tools and
Miter saw
Caulk gun
1" drywall screws
Panel adhesive
other lightweight objects. When mounted to the wall Paint roller Paint or varnish
and outfitted with metal hooks, pegboard provides
a convenient way to keep items from getting lost
in the back of a drawer or the bottom of a tool studs, you can simply screw pegboard to the studs.
chest. Pegboard also makes it easy to change the The empty bays between the studs will provide
arrangement or collection of your wall-hung items, the necessary clearance for inserting the hooks.
because you can reposition the metal hooks any On a finished wall, however, you’ll need to install a
way you like without measuring, drilling holes, or framework of furring strips behind the pegboard to
hammering nails into the wall. In fact, pegboard has create the necessary clearance and provide some
served as a low-cost storage option for so long that added stiffness. It’s also a good idea to build a frame
there are a multitude of different hooks and brackets around your pegboard to give the project a neat,
you can buy to accommodate nearly anything you finished appearance.
want to hang. Any home center will carry both the If your garage tends to be damp, seal both faces of
pegboard and the hooks. the pegboard with several coats of varnish or primer
You need to install pegboard correctly to get the and exterior paint; otherwise it will absorb moisture
most value from it. If your garage walls have exposed and swell up or even delaminate.
Pegboard systems
are classic storage
solutions for garages
and other utility
areas. Outfitted with
a variety of hangers,
they offer flexibility
and convenience
when used to store
hand tools and other
small shop items.

DTP: LY Page: 156
PEGBOARD & HANGER HARDWARE STYLES
3
⁄16" dia.
Furring Strip
1
⁄8" dia.
Hanger hardware comes in many shapes and sizes, from Two common thicknesses for pegboard hangers are 1⁄8"-dia.
the basic J for hanging a single tool to double-prong and 3⁄16"-dia., both of which fit into standard pegboard hole
hangers for hammers and even shelf standards. You can configurations. The thicker the hanger, the more it can
buy assorted hangers in kits or stock up on the type you’re handle. Both types rely on the mechanical connection with
likely to use the most. the pegboard and can fail if the holes in the board become
elongated. The pegboard must have furring strips on the
back side to create a recess for the hangers.
Metal pegboard
Tempered hardboard
Hardboard Hardboard with white melamine finish
Pegboard is a single‑purpose sheetgood material. It is used to create a wall surface with storage function (occasionally it may
be used as a cabinet back where ventilation is desired). Although it comes in 1⁄8"-thick panels, avoid them in favor of 1⁄4"-thick
material. Most larger home centers carry it unfinished and in pre-finished white. Woodgrain and other decorative panels can
be found, and you can also buy metal pegboard panels. The standard size holes are 1⁄4"-dia. and spaced in a 1"-on-center grid.

nd Edition
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How to Install a Pegboard Storage System
1 2
Cut your pegboard panel to size if you are not installing a full Cut 1 × 2 furring strips to make a frame that is attached to P
sheet (most building centers sell 2 × 4' and 4 × 4' panels the back side of the pegboard panel. The outside edges u
in addition to the standard 4 × 8'). If you are cutting with a of the furring strips should be flush with the edges of the p
circular saw, orient the panel face-up to prevent tearout on pegboard. Because they will be visible, cut the frame parts h
the higher-grade face. If cutting with a jigsaw, the good face of so the two side edge strips run the full height of the panel l
the panel should be down. If possible, plan your cuts so there (36" here). Cut a couple of filler strips to fill in between the s
is an even amount of distance from the holes to all edges. top and bottom rails.
OPTION: Make a frame from picture frame molding and

Attach the furring strips to the back of the panel using 1" wrap it around the pegboard to conceal the edge grain
drywall screws and panel adhesive. Drive the screws through and the furring strips. If you can’t find picture frame
countersunk pilot holes in the panel face. Do not drive screws molding with the correct dimensions, mill your own T
through the predrilled pegboard holes. Use intermediate molding by cutting a 3/8"-wide by 1"-deep rabbet into one D
furring strips to fill in between the top and bottom. These may face of 1 × 2 stock. c
be fastened with panel adhesive alone. p

DTP: LY Page: 158
4 5
Paint or topcoat the pegboard. You can leave the pegboard Locate and mark wall studs if your garage wall has a wall
unfinished, if you prefer, but a coat of paint or varnish covering. Make sure the marks extend above and below the
protects the composite material from nicks and dings and pegboard location so you can see them once the pegboard is
hardens it around the hole openings so the holes are less positioned on the wall.
likely to become elongated. A paint roller and short-nap
sleeve make quick work of the job.
6 7
Tack the pegboard and frame to the wall in the desired location. Drive a drywall screw through the top and bottom frame rails
Drive one 2½" screw partway through the top frame at the at each wall stud location. Drill countersunk pilot holes first.
center of the pegboard. Place a long level on the top of the Double-check for level after driving the first screw. Insert
pegboard and adjust it to level using the screw as a pivot point. hangers as desired.

nd Edition
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I
t
s
w
t
Installing Adjustable Shelving Systems l

m
s
i
r
S ome garage stuff is simply stored best on shelving,

particularly if it’s too large to fit into a cabinet but
still relatively lightweight. Empty planters, gas cans,
with shelf brackets in a range of lengths to suit various
shelf widths. For garage applications, it’s a good
idea to buy heavy-duty standards and brackets. The
boxed supplies, and half-full cans of paint are ideal components are made of thicker-gauge metal than
candidates for a sturdy shelving system. You could regular-duty hardware, and the shelf brackets have
go to the effort and build your garage shelving from two mounting lugs instead of one to reinforce the
scratch, but going that route will require you to come attachment points.
up with a means of supporting shelf boards on the When you install your shelving, locate the top
wall. It’s doable, of course, but you’ll have to make the of the standards just high enough so you can reach
standards and brackets yourself. Plus, most shop- the top shelf from the floor. If you plan to load your
made shelving is fixed in place, so you can’t reposition shelving with fairly heavy items, mount a standard to
the shelves easily if your storable items change. every wall stud in the shelf area. Use strong screws
A more convenient option is to buy metal recommended by the manufacturer and fasten them
shelf standards that fasten to the wall studs and to wall studs only—never to paneling, trim boards, or
shelf brackets that clip into a series of slots on the wallboard alone. Be sure to use sturdy shelf boards
standards. Home centers carry these adjustable and firmly tap the brackets into mounting slots before
shelving systems in several colors, and they come loading up the shelves.
TOOLS & MATERIALS

Eye protection & work gloves
Level
Drill
Tape measure
Circular saw
Straightedge
Stud finder
Rubber mallet
Shelf standards with brackets
3
⁄4" plywood
P
Sturdy, adjustable shelves are easy to (
install and offer a convenient place to s
safely store those larger, lightweight M
items off the floor. p

DTP: LY Page: 160
How to Install Bracket Shelves
Install the first standard at one end of
the installation area. The standards
seen here (70" long) are centered on 2
wall studs with the tops level. Align the
top of the standard with the top level
line and drive one screw through a
mounting hole. Hold a level against the
side of the standard and adjust it until
it is plumb. Drive screws through the
remaining mounting holes.
Install the remaining standards. For fail-proof results, install the two end standards
first, and then establish a level line between them so you can butt the intermediate
standards against the line. Use a level against each standard to make sure it
is plumb.
NOTE: If you need to cut the standards for length, align all cut ends of the
standards in the same locations (either at the top or bottom).
3 4
Prepare your shelf stock. For excellent results, rip cut quality 3⁄4" plywood to width Install shelf support brackets in the
(usually 111⁄2") with a circular saw and a straightedge. Avoid particleboard or MDF standards using light blows from a
shelving as it is prone to sagging and will degrade quickly if exposed to moisture. rubber mallet to make sure they’re
Most premilled shelving (usually coated with vinyl or melamine) is made from fully seated. Set the shelving onto the
particleboard and is a bit too light-duty for garage storage. standards, adjusting as desired.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 161
Utility Shelves
Y ou can build adjustable

utility shelves in a single
afternoon using 2 × 4s and plain
¾-inch plywood. Perfect for use
in a garage, utility shelves can be
modified by adding side panels
and a face frame to create a
finished look.
The quick-and-easy shelf
project shown on the following
pages creates two columns of
shelves with a total width of
68 inches. You can enlarge the
project easily by adding more
2 × 4 risers and plywood shelves.
Do not increase the individual
shelf widths to more than
36 inches. The sole plates for
the utility shelves are installed
perpendicular to the wall to
improve access to the space under
the bottom shelves.
Utility shelves built with ordinary 2 × 4s

and plywood are an easy, inexpensive
way to create flexible storage in
a garage.

DTP: LY Page: 162
TOOLS & MATERIALS & CUTTING LIST
TOOLS MATERIALS CUTTING LIST

Tape measure (15) 2 × 4 × 8 pine PART NO. DESC. SIZE MATERIAL
Level (2) ¾ × 4 × 8 plywood A 2 Top plates 68" 2 × 4s
Framing square Wood glue B 3 Sole plates 24" 2 × 4s
Drill/driver Shims C 8 Shelf risers 93" 2 × 4s
Plumb bob Drywall or deck screws D 4 End risers 93" 2 × 4s
Powder-actuated nailer (2½", 3") E 12 Shelves 30 ⁄4 × 24"
3
⁄4" plywood
3
Clamps Finishing materials

Router Shelf supports
Circular saw
Grease pencil
Straightedge guide
A
D
D
E
C

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 163
How to Install Utility Shelves
1 2 3
Mark the location of top plates on the Mark points directly beneath the Cut the outer 2 × 4 sole plates and B
ceiling. One plate should be flush outside corners of the top plates to find position them perpendicular to the wall, p
against the wall, and the other should the outer sole plate locations using a just inside the outlines. Shim plates b
be parallel to the first plate, with the plumb bob as a guide (top). Mark the to level if needed, then attach to the a
front edge 24" from the wall. Cut 2 × 4 sole plate locations by drawing lines floor with a powder-actuated nailer or
top plates to full length of utility shelves, perpendicular to the wall, connecting 3" screws. Attach a center sole plate
then attach to ceiling joists or blocking each pair of points (bottom). midway between the outer sole plates.
using 3" screws.
Prepare the shelf risers by cutting 7⁄8"-wide, ¾"-deep dadoes with a router. Cut
dadoes every 4" along the inside face of each 2 × 4 riser, with the top and bottom
dadoes cut about 12" from the ends of the 2 × 4. 5
TIP: Gang cut the risers by laying them flat and clamping them together, then
attaching an edge guide to align the dado cuts. For each cut, make several passes
with the router, gradually extending the bit depth until dadoes are ¾" deep.
P
e
Trim the shelf risers to uniform length s
before unclamping them. Use a circular s
saw and a straightedge guide. t

DTP: LY Page: 164
6 7 8
Build two center shelf supports by Build four end shelf supports by Position an end shelf support at each
positioning pairs of shelf risers back to positioning the back of a dadoed shelf corner of the shelving unit between
back and joining them with wood glue riser against a 2 × 4 of the same length, the top and the sole plates. Attach the
and 2½" screws. then joining the 2 × 4 and the riser with supports by driving 3" screws toenail
glue and 2½" screws. style into the top plate and sole plates.
9 10
Position a center shelf support (both faces dadoed) at each Measure the distance between the facing dado grooves and
end of the center sole plate, then anchor shelf supports to the subtract ¼". Cut the plywood shelves to fit and slide the
sole plate using 3" screws driven toenail style. Use a framing shelves into the grooves.
square to align the center shelf supports perpendicular to the
top plates, then anchor to top plates.

nd Edition
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Installing Garage TOOLS & MATERIALS
Cabinets Eye protection &

work gloves
11⁄4" panhead screws
Base & wall cabinets
Long level Shims
Grease pencil
I f you prefer to keep what you store behind closed Toekick boards or side panel
doors, cabinets may be the storage solution. Any Tape measure trim, as needed
interior cabinets can be used in the garage, and Stud finder 3
⁄4" plywood
if you’re upgrading garage storage on a budget, Combination square Panel adhesive
utility-grade melamine or unfinished cabinets Drill 1 × 2 lumber for
are quite affordable. Used cabinets are widely edging strips
Handscrew clamps
available as well and can make ideal knock-around
Hammer Finish nails
garage cabinets where looks aren’t essential. Check
Craigslist, secondhand stores, or local kitchen Caulk gun
1
⁄4" hardboard
remodeling contractors for recycled units on 1 × 4 ledger boards 1" brads F
the cheap. L-brackets l
21⁄2" drywall screws c
If you have limited floor space in your garage,
g
consider utility cabinets with a shallower base. Some
manufacturers offer a 15-inch-deep model that is
9 inches shallower than a standard base cabinet. As
you plan, make sure there is still room for a car, bikes,
and yard and garden equipment.
Cabinets like the ones shown here are low-cost,
simple alternatives to a full-blown wall storage
system like the one shown on page 170. They can
be very sturdy because they’re mounted to the
studs and are ideal for spot storage in one area of
the garage.
The process for installing individual cabinet sets
in the garage is the same as in a kitchen. Cabinets
must be firmly attached to wall studs, and they
should be level and plumb. The best way to ensure
an even, level installation of upper cabinets is to
install a temporary ledger board, as shown here.
Rest the cabinets on it when fastening them to the
wall studs. Many pros install upper cabinets first
to take advantage of the full-wall access, but you
might want to begin with the base cabinets and use
them to help support the uppers during installation. D
If your garage cabinet system will include a c
corner cabinet, install it first and work outward Garage utility cabinets are inexpensive and because the base h
cabinets are not as deep as kitchen cabinets, they have a t
to make sure the corner cabinet will fit the space
compact footprint that’s well suited to a garage. A durable l
properly. If your garage floor tends to be damp, melamine surface is easy to clean, and a double plywood t
it’s a good idea to install leveler feet on the base work top with a replaceable hardboard surface stands up well u
cabinets beforehand. to hard use. t

DTP: LY Page: 166
How to Install Garage Cabinets
1 2
Find the high point of the floor in the installation area by Draw a level line along the wall to create a base cabinet
leveling a long, straight board and identifying the principal top reference
contact point with the floor. Mark the point on the floor with a
grease pencil or tape.
3 4
Draw reference lines for the upper cabinets based on the base Mark wall stud locations clearly on the wall just above the
cabinet line. If your base cabinets are 34½" tall (standard base cabinet line and just below the bottom upper cabinets
height not including countertop) then the line for the tops of line. Also mark stud locations slightly above the top upper
the upper cabinets should be 49½" above the base cabinet cabinet line. Use a stud finder to identify the locations of
line and parallel to it. Measure down from the upper cabinet the studs.
top line 30" and mark reference lines for the bottom of the
upper cabinets (make sure your cabinets are 30" high first—
this is a standard but there is occasional variation). (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 167
5 6
Attach ledgers to the wall or walls to provide temporary Attach the first wall cabinet with 21⁄2" drywall screws. If the I
support for the upper cabinets while you install them. The cabinet has a mounting strip at the top of the back panel s
ledgers (1 × 4 is being used here) should just touch the (most do), drive a pair of screws through the strip at each t
reference line for the bottom of the wall cabinet. Attach the stud location. Attach all wall cabinets to the wall. i
ledger with a drywall screw driven at each stud location.
Transfer stud location marks to the ledger.
7 8
M
e
S
t
s
1
Join wall cabinets by driving 1¼" panhead screws through Install the first base cabinet directly under the first wall s
one cabinet side and into the adjoining cabinet side. Clamp cabinet. Position the cabinet and shim it as needed until it a
the cabinets together first to make sure the fronts and tops is level, plumb, and touches the reference line (see step 2). c
stay flush. Secure it to the wall with 2½" drywall screws. b

DTP: LY Page: 168
9 10
Install the remaining base cabinets by leveling the cabinet Attach cabinet doors and drawers if you removed them during
sides, screwing them to the wall studs, and then fastening installation or if they were not preattached. Adjust the hinges
them together. Attach toe-kick trim boards or side panel trim, according to the manufacturer’s instructions so the gaps
if desired. Remove the upper cabinet wall ledger or ledgers. between doors are even and they all open and close smoothly.
11 12
Make the work top. While a piece of postform countertop makes a suitable and Attach the work top. If your base
easy-to-install work top, you can create a heavier, more durable top with plywood. cabinets do not have preattached
Simply cut two pieces of ¾" plywood so they overhang each side and the front of mounting strips for a countertop, fasten
the cabinet base by 1". Secure them with panel adhesive and countersunk 1¼" L-brackets around the inside perimeter
screws. Use plenty of screws. Then cover the front and side edges with strips of of each cabinet, and then drive screws
1 × 2. The front strip should overhang the front ends of the side strips. Attach the up through the L-brackets and into the
strips with adhesive and finish nails. Finally, cut a piece of 1⁄4"-thick hardboard so underside of the work top. Apply a bead
all edges are flush with the base. Attach it with 1" brads driven through slightly of panel adhesive to all cabinet top
countersunk pilots holes (the heads need to be recessed). When the hardboard top surfaces for a better bond and to reduce
becomes worn, you can easily remove it and replace it. clattering. Add a bench vise, if desired.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 169
Installing a Complete Slat-Wall Storage System
C omplete garage wall storage systems continue to

evolve, and new products are radically different
from the flimsier, duller early versions. The big change
finished walls—especially because one advantage of
this type of storage is the development of stunningly
attractive models that look custom made.
in new versions is that the systems now are designed No matter which manufacturer’s product you
to run on slat-wall bands of varying widths top to choose, the first step in installing a slatted-wall storage
bottom, depending on what it is you need to store. system is planning it out. If you take the time to figure
That means you no longer have to plan on covering out exactly how many cabinets and which type of
an entire wall with slatted surface panels—just use storage hooks you want, you’ll have both an exact idea
what you need. of budget and a system that perfectly meets your needs.
Even so, the basic idea remains the same. Cabinets
hang on brackets that are supported by the slats
in the wall panels. The slats can also support an TOOLS & MATERIALS
amazing array of custom storage hangers, from a
variety of bicycle supports, to individual tool hangers, Stud finder Screwdriver Jigsaw
to sturdier hardware meant to hold power tools. (if working Pencil Drill
The integrity of the system relies on screwing the on finished
Framing square Tape measure
wall panels firmly to studs. You can attach them over walls)
Level
exposed studs, but the systems look much nicer on
A complete slat‑wall
system like this one
provides incredible
flexibility, allowing you
to store just about
anything you want
with a minimum
of installation time
and effort.
Before
After

DTP: LY Page: 170
.
Although the product used in the following project

includes cabinets mounted on slat walls, you can
also find hybrid products, such as the one shown
here, that include freestanding cabinetry and
slat-wall panels for exposed storage, such as the
vertical bike hangers included in this garage.
A slat‑wall system doesn’t need to

be complex or massive to make
sense. This simple quarter-wall
system provides plenty of room to
keep avid bikers organized and
ready to ride at a moment’s notice.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 171
How to Install Slat-Wall Panels
1 2
T
Measure and mark the location of the wall panels. Use a level Install a 1 × 2 × 4 starter strip on the wall, checking carefully w
to mark lines across the stud faces for the starter strip to run again to ensure it is level. Install the strip 1' below the top t
under the top slat panel. edge of the first panel in the wall. o
m
3 4
Install the first panel by sitting it on the starter guide and Snap the next panel into position underneath the first panel.
aligning it on the studs. Screw it to the wall with the supplied Align the outside edges (there may be up to a 1⁄8" variation in
color-coordinated screws. For maximum support, use one panel width; the edge strips will conceal this). Double-check
screw per slat, per stud. the panel to make sure it’s level before fastening it to the wall
with screws, as you did the top panel. A
NOTE: If you’re installing the panel on a finished wall, coat s
the back of the panel with construction adhesive before p
setting it in position. w

DTP: LY Page: 172
5 6
To accommodate wall outlets, switches, or other fixtures in the Unscrew the outlet receptacle or switch from the box frame.
wall surface, measure and mark from the edge of the panel Install an outlet extender box, screwing it to the frame, then
to the location of the outlet. Mark the outline of the opening screw the receptacle or switch to the extender box. Install the
on the face of the wall panel. Drill holes at the corners of the wall panel over the receptacle and replace the outlet cover or
marked opening and cut it out with a jigsaw. switch plate.
7 8
Add any additional wall panels to either side by inserting the For larger obstructions, cut the panels as needed to fit around
supplied dowels into the slots on the back of the previous the obstruction. Measure and mark, and then cut the panels
panel and pushing the panels together. Check for level as you with a jigsaw.
work, and screw the new panels into the wall. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 173
Clean newly installed panels
with an all-purpose
household cleaner. Install 9
the edge caps, working
from top to bottom on the
right side, and bottom to
top on the left.
U
How to Install Slat-Wall Cabinets r
a
1 2
Check all cabinet boxes for the correct sizes and to make Set a cabinet bottom panel (the bottom and top are
sure that all the hardware has been included. The company interchangeable with this system, as are the sides) on a flat
that manufacturers the system shown here supplies cabinet work surface. Snug a dowel into each dowel hole. Separate U
bodies and their matching doors in separate boxes. the cam posts from the cam nuts and place the posts in the w
outside holes on each end of the panel.

DTP: LY Page: 174
3 4
Use a screwdriver to hand-tighten the cam posts into the Push the cam nuts into the receiver holes in the one side wall.
receiver holes. The post should still stick up far enough to Make sure the line on the face of each nut is pointing vertically.
accommodate the cam nut where it sits in the side-wall hole. Slide the wall down over the dowels and cam posts with the
row of pin holes facing the inside of the cabinet (inset).
5 6
Use a screwdriver to turn the cam lock nuts to lock the side Align the cabinet spanner bar with the bolt holes in each side
wall to the base. Repeat with the second side wall. wall. Fasten the bar in place with the supplied Allen-head
bolts. Repeat with the other spanner bar. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 175
Install dowels and the
cam posts in the top of
the side panel, and slide 7
the top panel onto them.
Lock the cam posts in
place as you did on the
bottom, by turning the
cam nuts until tight.
Sit a shelf rear bracket

into the recessed back
edge of one shelf. Screw 8
it into place with the
wood screws provided.
Repeat with the other
shelves you’ll be using in
the cabinet.
Position each shelf at

the level you prefer
by levering it into the 9
wall spanners for the
shelf. Place pins in the
corresponding side-
wall panel pin holes at
the front edge of the
cabinet. Set the front
of the shelf on the pins
and check for level.
Adjust as necessary, and
repeat with the rest of
the shelves.
S
s
c

DTP: LY Page: 176
Screw the door hinges
into the designated hinge
10 holes in the doors (longer
cabinets have hinges at
top, bottom, and middle;
smaller cabinets only
have two hinges on
each side).
11 12
Sit one door in position with the round hinge projections Screw the door handles onto the cabinet doors. Adjust the
secure into the door’s receiver holes. Screw the hinges to the position of the cabinets as needed—they can be easily slid
cabinet. Repeat with the opposite door. in one direction or the other. Add other accessories, work
surfaces, and specialty hooks as desired.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 177
Installing a Ceiling Storage Unit
S ome garage storables, such as empty coolers,

luggage, and cartop carriers, tend to be bulky
but lightweight. They take up an inordinate amount
fit between the downrods and attach with nuts and
bolts. It’s possible to install the system by yourself, but
a helper makes the job much easier. Once the parts
of shelf or floor space that could be better used for are assembled, carefully double-check all connections
heavier items. One storage option for these items is before loading up the shelf.
right above your head—on your garage ceiling. Aside Be careful to position your ceiling storage unit
from a few lights and the track rails for your garage clear of the path of your sectional garage door and the
door, there isn’t much on the ceiling of most garages. moving parts of your garage door opener. Use a stud
If your garage has roof trusses, you’ve got the perfect finder to help determine the thickness of the trusses A
b
location for some lightweight shelf storage. so you can locate the attachment bolts as close as
T
There are several ceiling-hung shelf kits available possible to their centers. Refer to the instructions that c
in a range of lengths and widths. The typical ceiling come with your kit to be clear about the maximum o
storage unit consists of four downrods that bolt weight load your unit can hold. r
to the bottom truss or joist members. A pair of h
crossbraces attaches to the downrods to form support r
frameworks for wire shelf grids. Other styles of ceiling TOOLS & MATERIALS 1
storage are available for hoisting bicycles, truck

toppers, or canoes up and out of the way. Stepladder Screwdriver
Installing ceiling storage involves locating truss Stud finder Ratchet wrench & sockets
chords, joists, or rafter ties to support the four Tape measure Overhead shelving kit
downrods, and then attaching the rods to the ceiling Drill
framing with lag bolts. The crossbraces and grids
A ceiling shelf unit

takes advantage of
underused space
between the hood
of your parked car
and the ceiling. Most
units are rated only
for relatively light
storage items.
I
t
T
f
o

DTP: LY Page: 178
How to Install a Ceiling Storage Unit
Rafter tie or 24"

truss cord
1 2
Attach the downrods for the first pair of horizontal support Install the horizontal support bars. The bottom ends of the
bars using the fasteners recommended by the manufacturer. downrods are secured to the horizontal bars that support the
The fasteners must be driven into structural members in the shelving. This is often done with the use of L-shaped corner
ceiling, be they truss chords, rafter ties, or ceiling joists. The rods with female ends that accept the male ends of the
outside edges of the two footplates should follow the spacing downrod and the horizontal bars. How deeply the corner rods
recommended in the instructions (69" apart for the model seen are inserted into the downrod determines the height of the
here). Install the second pair of downrod footplates on the next storage platform. Set the height you want and then insert bolts
rafter or truss chord in 24" on-center framing. If the ceiling is through the aligned bolt holes in the downrods and corner
16" on center, skip one member so the footplates are 32" apart. rods. Align all parts and secure with bolts and nuts.
3 4
Install the shelving grids. Position the wire grid shelves so Join the grids together with the supplied fasteners. Load
they span the support bars with even overhang (if possible). the storage items onto the shelves. Do not overload. Your
Thread bolts through the parallel wires and support instruction manual will inform you of the weight capacity. The
framework as directed. Hand tighten nuts and washers model shown here is rated for up to 300 pounds provided the
onto bolts. weight is distributed evenly.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 179
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Power drill Stud finder Jigsaw
and bits (if working Ladder
Tape measure on finished
Wood screws
walls)
Pencil (2½", 4", 5")
Framing square
Adding a Custom Screwdriver
Level
Chalk line
Lumber
Storage Loft
heavy-duty hardware, power tools, and metal odds
and ends aren’t. Depending on what you plan on
O verhead space is an unexploited asset in most

garages. That’s because it’s so easy to miss. A
simple garage storage loft can provide an ideal place
storing, you can replace the plywood loft floor with
slats for better air circulation.
Adding an overhead structure like this is the perfect
to get long-term storage items up and out of the way, opportunity to drywall the garage ceiling, since you’ll
while still being relatively accessible. already be working there. To that end, we’ve included
This loft design puts an emphasis on “simple,” since simple instructions to finish your garage ceiling.
it can be easily constructed in a day. Although the parts Lastly, keep in mind that the design used here can
are not heavy, it can be awkward working overhead, so be easily modified. If you have lower-than-normal
the work will be quicker and easier with a helper. ceilings in your garage, you might need to reduce the
If looks are important and your garage has finished 30-inch height of the loft; alternatively, if your garage
walls, you may want to paint the loft to match the ceiling is unusually high, go ahead and increase I
walls or even to contrast with them. Either way, it’s the height for more clearance. It’s also fairly simple m
o
important to keep in mind that the loft is meant for to scale the design up to run in a U-shaped layout
M
lightweight storage items. Christmas decorations, around the back of the garage, creating an incredible d
seasonal linens, old toys, and similar items are okay; amount of storage. t
C
c
This garage loft is not only simple to build, but it can also easily be resized, doubled, or otherwise adapted to suit your particular c
garage and whatever you need to store. 4

DTP: LY Page: 180
How to Build a Custom Storage Loft
1 2
If the garage wall is finished, use a stud finder to confirm and Measure 30" out from the wall at several points along three
mark the location of the studs (the instructions here are based joists or the ceiling, and snap another chalk line across these
on 16"-on-center studs and 24"-on-center ceiling joists). points. This represents the outer edge of the top ledger.
Measure and snap a chalk line across the wall or studs, 30"
down from the ceiling across five studs. This represents the
top of the ledgers that will support the loft platform.
3 4
Cut the 2 × 4 bottom wall ledger 75" long. Butt one end in the Cut the top 2 × 4 ledger 75" long and align it with the top
corner and align the top edge of the board with the bottom marks on the joists or ceiling, butted to the perpendicular
chalk line marks. Screw the board face to the studs with wall. Screw the ledger to the joists with 4" wood screws.
4" wood screws (two per stud). (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 181
Lay the three 2 × 4 × 33½" vertical supports face down and
parallel, spread out on a flat, level work surface. Lay the
bottom ledger face down across the base of the supports.
Adjust them so that the two outer supports are flush to the
outer edges of the ledger, and the third support is exactly
centered. The bottom edges of the supports and ledger
should be flush. Screw the ledger to the supports with
2½" wood screws, using three per support.
6
Screw the tops of the vertical supports to the edge of the top S
ledger at each joist location. Use three 4" wood screws at j
each support. Toe-screw each support up into the joist with
one 5" wood screw.
7 8
Cut 2 × 4 cross braces 30" long. Screw them to the bottoms of Rip the 30"‑wide platform from a ¼" plywood sheet. Cut it 72" P
the ledgers on both sides, spaced equidistant along the length long and carefully place in into position with the edges resting a
of the loft structure, using 4" screws. on the ledgers on either side. a

DTP: LY Page: 182
How to Install Drywall on a Ceiling
1 2
Snap a chalk line perpendicular to the Measure to make sure the first panel will break on the center of a joist. If necessary,
joists, 481⁄8" from the starting wall. cut the panel on the end that abuts the side wall so the panel breaks on the next
farthest joist. Load the panel onto a rented panel lift, or use a helper, and lift the
panel flat against the joists.
3 4
Position the panel with the leading edge on the chalk line After the first row of panels is installed, begin the next row
and the end centered on a joist. Fasten the panel with with a half-panel. This ensures that the butted end joints will
appropriately sized screws. be staggered between rows.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 183
Floor Improvements
I f you plan to use your garage for anything more

than parking or storage, you’re going to spend a
lot of time standing and walking on the floor, so it
Paint will brighten dull concrete, and when applied
correctly, it will stand up to both foot traffic and car
tires. The first project of this section will show you
makes sense to improve its appearance, condition, how to apply garage floor paint properly.
and cleanliness. Garage slabs tend to be the most The next two projects provide floor-covering
marginal floor areas of our homes. They can be damp, options. If your garage floor has some minor cosmetic
especially when the slab doesn’t drain properly. If problems, such as tiny cracks or spalling, paint
you’ve got an older garage, the slab may be cracked or probably won’t hide them adequately. One alternative
show signs of deterioration from weathering and hard is to install flexible rolled flooring. It’s thick enough
use. The good news is there are a number of ways to to hide surface imperfections in the slab, and it offers
improve your garage floor economically as a do-it- a bit of cushioning for your feet and legs. A third
yourselfer, without renting a jackhammer or sand option—interlocking floor tiles—simply snaps together
blaster. This chapter will highlight several options. to form a grid over the concrete. These tiles stand
For a garage floor that is dry and in sound slightly off the floor to promote drainage underneath,
condition the most cost-effective approach is to paint so they’re a good solution for damp concrete.
it. Garage floor paint is generally a two-part epoxy Because no flooring project should be conducted
product that you can apply with a roller and brush. on a floor that is in disrepair, the following pages
It comes in a range of colors, and you can add quartz include a brief sequence showing how to patch your
crystals or sand to the paint to help improve traction. concrete garage floor.
Three flooring solutions allow you to

paint your floor or cover it up for a
fresh, clean appearance, and all are
manageable DIY projects. You won’t
have to put up with a dull, dirty, or
damp garage floor.

DTP: LY Page: 184
PATCHING GARAGE FLOORS
Use a concrete chisel (called a cold chisel) and a heavy Clean out the area to be patched using a wire brush or
hammer or mallet to deepen the edges of the damaged portable drill with a wire wheel attachment. Be sure to
area until the outer edges are at least 1⁄8" thick. Most cracks remove all dirt and loose material from the area to be
and depressions in concrete floors are deeper in the center patched. This step will also roughen the edges a bit,
and are tapered at the edges; the feather-thin material creating a better bond.
around the perimeter of the hole is liable to peel or flake off.
A bonding agent (also called a bonding adhesive) helps Mix your concrete patching compound with clean water until
to chemically bond the patch material to the existing all of the material is thoroughly wet and all of the lumps are
concrete, making the repair material less likely to loosen worked out. Most mixing compounds start to set within 10
or dislodge. Apply a thin layer of bonding adhesive to the to 20 minutes. (Inset) Use a trowel to compact the material
entire repair area with a paintbrush. Some bonding agents into the area being repaired until it is slightly raised above the
need to be applied to a wet surface, others should not. surface of the surrounding concrete. If the hole is deeper than
Follow the directions carefully. ¼", allow each layer to dry before applying the next layer.
Use the edge of the trowel to smooth the surface, removing Finishing work. Slightly raise the flat face of the steel
any excess material. Slide the trowel back and forth on finishing trowel and smooth the patching material until it
its edge, while also pulling the excess material toward is even with the adjoining surfaces, creating a seamless
you, until it is past the edge of the area you’re working on. repair. Keep the trowel clean and damp to prevent the mix
Scoop it up with the trowel and discard. from gumming up the trowel. Finishing is an art and takes
practice, so keep trying.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 185
TOOLS & MATERIALS
Stiff-bristle push broom Painter’s tape T
Leaf blower Plastic sheeting and tape
Pressure washer Drill
Power buffer Mixing paddle attachment
Garage Floor Treatments Garden hose
Long-handled paint roller
Cleaning and finishing
products
or squeegee Shop vacuum
Paintbrush Large plastic bucket
I f your garage floor is not perfectly dry, smooth,
and in good repair, you have several options for
improving it. A simple cleaning is the easiest and most
Baking soda
Protective glasses
Respirator
Rubber gloves
obvious solution. For concrete floors, a process called Boots
etching is done in conjunction with basic cleaning
with detergent. Etching uses mild acid to remove oil,
grime, and other stains plain detergent won’t take because garage floors receive so much traffic and filth,
care of. Etching is recommended as a preparatory it is generally agreed that a seal coat is a definite aid in
treatment for applying paint or acid-based stain. Prior ongoing maintenance.
to etching, any preexisting paint must be completely After etching, but before sealing, is the time to paint P
removed and any minor cracks or imperfections (or you can use an acid-based stain if you wish). To d
should be repaired. paint an etched concrete floor, use a two-part, epoxy- a
Once the garage floor is repaired, cleaned, and based product that you mix together before application. t
P
etched, you may choose simply to seal it. There The paint can be applied with ordinary brushes and
is some debate about the advisability of sealing rollers. Each gallon provides approximately 250 square
concrete because the sealing products remove the feet of floor coverage and dries in about 48 hours.
concrete’s natural ability to breathe, which can lead When fully cured, the paint will resist oil and brake
to problems related to moisture entrapment. But fluids and other automotive chemicals.
A
t
w
c
t
Specially formulated epoxy‑based paint will give your concrete garage floor a low-cost facelift and comes in a variety of colors p
from which you can choose. t

DTP: LY Page: 186
Tools & Materials for Painting Garage Floors
B
C
A
Preparation and finishing materials include: (A) ammonia-base A power washer does a fast and thorough job of cleaning dirty
detergent for general cleaning of concrete surface; (B) muriatic garage floors prior to painting. Use these tools with caution. If
acid for final cleaning immediately before paint application; (C) handled carelessly, they are powerful enough to create more
. two-part epoxy floor paint Part A; (D) two-part epoxy floor paint mess than they remove.
Part B; (E) antiskid granular additive (optional).
F E
A power scrubber/buffer can be rented General purpose tools that are useful in a floor maintenance and painting project
to clean dirty, oily floors and to help include: (A) a plastic watering can for broadcasting cleaning and finishing chemicals;
work floor treatment products into the (B) a push broom; (C) a long-handled squeegee; (D) a long-handled paint roller; (E) a
concrete surface. These can be tricky drill outfitted with a paddle-type mixing attachment; (F) a plastic-body garden sprayer
to handle at first, so it’s a good idea to for applying chemical treatments.
practice with plain water before you use
the scrubber with chemicals.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 187
How to Clean & Etch a Garage Floor
TESTING TIP
Test the floor to make sure moisture is not migrating
up from below. Tape a large piece of plastic to the floor
and let it rest overnight. If condensation forms on the
underside of the plastic it means that transpiration is
occurring and the paint will likely fail. Test the floor
more than once and in multiple spots to be sure of its
suitability for paint.
1
Rinse the floor thoroughly after sweeping or vacuuming. A W
simple garden hose can be used for this process, or you can p
employ a pressure washer for deep cleaning. Use grease- r
cutting detergent and also scrub with a stiff-bristle brush as t
necessary to remove oily stains.
Prepare the acid‑based etching solution by pouring one cup

of muriatic acid into a pump sprayer or a plastic watering can
containing clean water for the recommended dilution ratio
(see acid container label). Always add acid to water: never
add water to acid.
CAUTION: Follow the safety precautions on the acid product

container at all times.
3
Broadcast the acid etching solution with a sprayer or a
watering can. Apply it evenly in areas small enough that they
will not dry before you can work the acid into the concrete
surface (100 sq. ft. at a time is a good guideline).

DTP: LY Page: 188
4 5
Work the acid solution into the floor surface with a stiff-bristle Neutralize the acid by brushing the floor with a solution of
push broom or a power scrubber/buffer. Let the acid solution baking soda dissolved in water (1 cup per gallon of water)
rest for 5 to 10 minutes. A mild foaming action indicates that only after all of the floor surface has been etched. Rinse
the product is working. with a power washer and then vacuum with a wet/dry shop
vacuum. Let the floor dry overnight before applying paint.
Rinse the garage floor thoroughly with a

hose and clean water, or with a pressure
washer. Multiple rinsing is advised.
7
Vacuum the wet floor thoroughly with
a wet/dry shop vacuum after you have
finished rinsing it. Vacuuming will help
6 prevent any residue from forming on
the floor when it dries.

nd Edition
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How to Seal a Garage Floor
1 2
Once etched, clean, and dry, your concrete is ready for clear Use wide painter’s tape to protect walls, and then use a M
sealer or liquid repellent. Mix the sealer in a bucket with a stir good-quality 4"-wide synthetic-bristle paintbrush to coat the F
stick. Lay painter’s tape down for a testing patch. Apply sealer perimeter with sealer. P
to this area and allow to dry to ensure desired appearance. a
Concrete sealers tend to make the surface slick when wet. Add a
an antiskid additive to aid with traction, especially on stairs.
3 4
P
n
Use a long‑handled paint roller with at least 1⁄2" nap to apply Allow the surface to dry according to the manufacturer’s m
an even coat to the rest of the surface. Do small sections at instructions, usually 8 to 12 hours minimum. Then apply a t
a time (about 2 × 3'). Work in one orientation (e.g., north to second coat in the opposite direction of the first coat. If the O
south). Avoid lap marks by always maintaining a wet edge. first coat was north to south, the second coat should be east d
Do not work the area once the coating has partially dried; this to west. t
could cause it to lift from the surface. s

DTP: LY Page: 190
How to Paint a Garage Floor
1 2
Mix the first part (Part A) of the two-part epoxy paint. Paint the perimeter of the room with a large brush, making
Following the instructions on the can label precisely, add the sure to get paint all the way into the corners and up against
Part B liquid to the Part A and blend with a mixing paddle the bottom of the walls. Feather the paint out on the room
attachment mounted in an electric drill. If you plan to add side so you do not leave any ridges that will show.
antiskid granules, add them at this point and mix them in well.
3 4
Paint the floor with a long-handled roller extension and a short- Apply the second coat of paint in the same manner as you
nap sleeve. Work from one corner opposite the garage door and applied the first. Instructions may vary, but in general it isn’t a
make your way to the overhead door. Don’t make the coat too good idea to apply more than two coats. Reserve any leftover
thick; a couple of thin coats is much better than one thick one. paint for occasional touch-ups in high-wear areas.
Once you have completed the first coat, close all doors and
do not open them until the paint has dried. Sweep or vacuum
the floor after the first coat (the primer coat) dries. Wear clean
shoes and try and get up as much debris as you can.

nd Edition
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TOOLS & MATERIALS
Push broom or leaf blower Straightedge guide
Tape measure Rubber mallet
Chalk line Jigsaw or circular saw
Installing Interlocking Stiff-bristle brush

Cleaning detergent
Grease pencil
Surface sealer
Floor Tiles Backer board
Plastic bucket
Floor tiles
I nterlocking floor tiles are another quick, DIY-friendly

solution that can give your garage floor a custom
checkerboard look. These 1 × 1-foot tiles are molded
mallet. Most tile brands offer beveled transition pieces
to border the garage door edge.
The process for installing locking floor tiles is quite
in a range of colors and are made of recycled PVC or similar to laying permanent floor tile. Clean the floor
other composites. You have several surface pattern thoroughly, then measure it and snap chalk lines to
styles to choose from, depending on the manufacturer. determine the exact center. Start by laying a row of
Some types are ventilated to promote drying, which tiles along the lengthwise chalk line from the garage
makes them a good option for installing over damp door to the intersecting chalk line. Adjust the row as
concrete. The tiles will resist gasoline, oil, and most needed to allow for full tiles along the front edge of
other solvents, so they’re well suited for parking spaces the garage. It’s fine to have partial tiles along the back
or other garage workspace applications. wall. Now, build out the tile grid left and right of the
Interlocking tiles create a floating floor system center row to fill in the rest of the floor. Measure and
similar to roll-out flooring. The four edges have cut partial tiles as needed to fit against the side and C
locking tabs that clip together like a jigsaw puzzle. back walls. Finish up by adding beveled transition d
Once installed, the tile grid holds itself in place, so pieces along the garage door, and cover the edges
there’s no need to fasten or glue the tiles permanently of the floor at the walls with sanitary base or other
to the concrete. You can cut them with standard base moldings. With a helper, you should be able to
woodworking saws and tap them together with a complete your new tiled floor in an afternoon.
Interlocking floor tiles

are easy to install
because they just
snap together,
creating a durable
floating garage floor
that will hold up to
wear and tear and
even chemical spills.
You can customize
the look to suit your
tastes. Given its
long lifespan, this
type of flooring is
also inexpensive
and a great value
for money.
M
t

DTP: LY Page: 192
How to Install Interlocking Floor Tiles
1 2
Clean the floor by sweeping, vacuuming, or blowing off any Remove any oily stains by scrubbing with detergent and a
debris with a leaf blower. stiff-bristle brush.
3 4
Measure the floor in both directions, and mark the locations of Snap chalk lines to connect the center points in both directions,
the centerlines. forming a point of intersection in the middle of the garage and
dividing the floor into four quadrants. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 193
5
Lay tiles along one leg of the layout 6

reference line, stopping just short
of the wall. Snap the tiles together
Adjust the position of the first row of tiles so the last tile will fit
as you work. Use a rubber mallet
just short of the overhead door opening without cutting. It is best
to gently tap and set the tiles,
to have the cut tiles against the far wall. If you plan to install a
if necessary.
beveled transition strip (some, but not all, manufacturers carry C
them), be sure to allow room for it when repositioning the row. a
Snap new chalk lines parallel to the originals. f
7
Measure the gaps at the ends of the
Add tiles along the adjusted reference lines to establish the
rows requiring cut tiles and subtract O
layout. If you find that one row of tiles will need to terminate with
¼" for expansion. o
tiles that are cut to a couple of inches or less, adjust the layout
side to side so the cut tiles will be evenly balanced at both ends w
of the line. Fill in the tiles in the field area of all quadrants.

DTP: LY Page: 194
9
10
Install transition strips at doorways.

t
Not all brands of interlocking tiles
have transition strips available.
Cut the tiles that need cutting with a jigsaw. Be sure to place
a backer board underneath the tile. Use a straightedge guide
for a clean cut.
11
OPTION: Seal the tiles to protect against tire marks and

other discoloration by applying a surface sealer. (Check Add base trim. Conceal the expansion gaps around the
with the tile manufacturer for its recommendations.) perimeter of the installation with molding, such as vinyl-cove
base molding.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 195
Garage Door Openers
I f you have an older garage or one to which you’ve just

run electrical service, it may be time to enjoy the ease
of access and security an automatic garage door opener
make sure your garage door is properly balanced and
moves smoothly in its tracks. Open and close the
door to see if it sticks or binds at any point. Release
affords. The installation instructions shown here feature the door in the half-open position. It should stay in
the most common and least expensive type of garage place supported by its own springs. If your door is
door opener: a chain drive unit. It’s installed on a sectional not balanced or sticks at any point, call a garage door
door with exposed joists. If you have an older one-piece service professional before installing the opener.
door, a lightweight metal or glass-paneled door, or a Most garage door openers plug into a standard
garage with a finished ceiling, consult the manufacturer’s grounded 120-volt receptacle located near the unit,
directions for alternative installation procedures. though some local codes may require openers to be
S
Before you begin, read all of the manufacturer’s hardwired into circuits. Consult the manufacturer’s t
instructions, especially the safety information. Then directions for hardwiring procedures. b
t
a
Hanging bracket
h
o
Opener s
Wall console
Braces
Header bracket
Screw terminals
Rail
Pulley bracket
Trolley
This illustration indicates all the components of a garage
door opener. If your opener style differs, refer to your owner’s
manual for clarification. Structural
support
TOOLS & MATERIALS Sensor

Door arm mounting
Stepladder Adjustable Garage door Door bracket
bracket
Tape measure wrench opener kit

Screwdriver
1
⁄2 and 7⁄16" 2× lumber Sensor eye T
sockets t
Pliers Grease pencil n
and ratchet
Wire cutters Staple gun f
wrench l
Pencil Insulated staples
Drill and bits i
Hammer Shims l
t

DTP: LY Page: 196
How to Install a Garage Door Opener
1 2
Start by aligning the rail pieces in proper order and securing The drive chain/cable should be packaged in its own dispensing
them with the included braces and bolts. Screw the pulley carton. Attach the cable loop to the front of the trolley using the
bracket to the door end of the rail and slide the trolley onto included linking hardware. Wrap the cable around the pulley,
the rail. Make sure the pulley and all rail pieces are properly then wrap the remaining chain around the drive sprocket on the
aligned and that the trolley runs smoothly without hitting any opener. Finally, attach it to the other side of the trolley with linking
hardware along the rail. Remove the two screws from the top hardware. Make sure the chain is not twisted, then attach the
of the opener, then attach the rail to the opener using these cover over the drive sprocket. Tighten the chain by adjusting the
screws (inset). nuts on the trolley until the chain is 1⁄2" above the base of the rail.
3 4
To locate the header bracket, first extend a vertical line from Support the opener on the floor with a board or box to prevent
the center of the door onto the wall above. Raise the door and stress and twisting to the rail. Attach the rail pulley bracket to
note the highest point the door reaches. Measure from the the header bracket above the door with the included clevis
floor to this point. Add 2" to this distance and mark a horizontal pin. Then place the opener on a stepladder so it is above the
line on the front wall where it intersects the centerline. If there door tracks. Open the door and shim beneath the opener until
is no structural support behind the cross point, fasten 2× the rail is 2" above the door.
lumber across the framing. Then fasten the header bracket to
the structural support with the included screws. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 197
5 6 7
Hang the opener from the ceiling joists Strip ¼" of sheathing from the wall- Install the sensor‑eye mounting brackets
with the included hanging brackets console bell wire. Connect the wire to at each side of the garage door, parallel
and screws. Angle at least one of the screw terminals on the console, then to each other, about 4 to 6" from the
the hanging brackets to increase the attach it to the inside wall of the garage floor. The sensor brackets can be
stability of the unit while in operation. with the included screws. Run the wires attached to the door track, the wall,
Attach the manual release cord and up the wall and connect them to the or the floor, depending upon your
handle to the release arm of the trolley. proper terminals on the opener. Secure garage layout. See the manufacturer’s
the wire to the wall with insulated directions for the best configuration for
staples, being careful not to pierce the your garage.
wire. Install the light bulbs and lenses.
Attach the sensor eyes to the brackets with the included wing nuts but do not
tighten the nuts completely. Make sure the path of the eyes is unobstructed by the
door tracks. Run wires from both sensors to the opener unit and connect the wires 9
to the proper terminals. Plug the opener into a grounded receptacle and adjust
the sensors until the indicator light shows the correct eye alignment (inset), then
tighten the wing nuts. Unplug the unit and attach the sensor wires to the walls with
insulated staples.
Center the door bracket 2 to 4" below

the top of the door. Drill holes and
attach the bracket with the included
carriage bolts. Connect the straight and
curved arm sections with the included
bolts. Attach the arm to the trolley
and door bracket with the included
latch pins. Plug the opener into a
grounded receptacle and test the unit.
See the manufacturer’s directions for
adjustment procedures.

DTP: LY Page: 198
GARAGE DOOR OPTIONS
Manufacturers continue to refine the materials used in garage doors and the styles available. Although almost all new
garage doors are sectional, as opposed to solid doors, you can choose from a range of materials. Many of these options
offer improvements in insulation values, security, and durability.
• Wood. Even though wood doors are still available, they are nowhere near as common as they once were. That’s
because wood garage doors require ongoing maintenance, including regular painting, and they are susceptible to
damage from the elements.
• Steel. This is currently the most common material used in sectional garage doors. Thicker is better when it comes to
steel construction, and 24-gauge is generally the thinnest you should buy. Finish is essential on steel doors in order
to prevent corrosion and aid in longevity. A baked-on primer and polyester topcoat are preferable, and you’ll also
want to make sure the steel is backed by insulated panels.
• Synthetics. An emerging trend in garage doors is the use of plastics and composites to create lightweight, inexpensive,
and durable units. These materials can be formed to just about any surface appearance and are usually colored all the
way through, so they are resistant to scratching and damage. They are sometimes used in conjunction with metal or
aluminum sections. The lightweight, durability, and relatively low cost mean that the popularity of this type of door is
sure to grow.
Regardless of the material you choose, most any garage door design these days can include lites—windows that usually
line the top of the door (but they can make up every section, as they do in some designs). The windows can be styled with
faux mullions to resemble just about any school of design, and are themselves offered as low-E and insulated panes.
While price is an excellent indicator of quality and longevity in new garage doors, it isn’t the only consideration. Warranties
vary from a one-year limited warranty on low-end wood doors, to 15- and 20-year warranties on some metal and
composite units. In purchasing the doors, it’s also wise to inquire how difficult it is to repaint the door—something that
may become an issue over a two-decade door life. And keep in mind that many new doors require replacing the door
opener, something you should take into account when you’re setting your new garage door budget.
Old‑fashioned carriage house doors? Hardly. These are sectional overhead doors that aren’t just incredibly detailed, but
also made of insulated steel and composite panels that give the door great insulation value and durability in addition to its
showstopping appearance.

nd Edition
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DTP: LY Page: 200
Garage
Maintenance
M ost of the chores required when taking care of

your garage are not much different from those
you’d perform on your house: some fresh paint, a
little caulk around windows and doors, a new roof
every 10 or 20 years, and some basic dusting up and
washing. But there are some maintenance activities
that are unique to the garage. Concrete garage floors
get more abuse than most floor surfaces and need
regular cleaning as well as the occasional touching
up of cracks or pop-outs. If your garage is home to a
car or other gas-powered vehicle equipment, you will
almost certainly face an occasional stain from engine
oil or other fluid. In colder climates, road salt tracked
in by your vehicles can cause the floor to discolor
and degrade.
The garage door is another hot spot for garage
maintenance. Anything that’s as big as a garage door
and moves regularly will undoubtedly need occasional
lubrication and adjusting. If you have a garage door
opener, you can plan on some regular maintenance,
as well as eventual replacement.
The trick to garage maintenance is really no trick
at all: don’t procrastinate. Fix problems as soon as
you spot them so they don’t get worse, and stick to a
regular cleaning and maintenance schedule.
In this chapter:
• Renewing a Garage Floor
• Tuning Up Garage Doors
GARAGE MAINTENANCE 201

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 201
Renewing a Garage Floor
O ver time, exposed concrete surfaces can start

to show a lot of wear. Weather, hard use,
and problems with the initial pour and finishing
in thickness from 1⁄16 to ¼ inch. For a smooth finish,
spread the resurfacer with a squeegee or trowel. For
a textured or nonslip surface, you can broom the
are among the most common causes of surface surface before it dries or use a masonry brush for
blemishes. But despite a shabby appearance, old smaller applications.
concrete is often structurally sound and can last
for many more years. So instead of breaking up and
replacing an old garage floor, you can easily renew
its surface with concrete resurfacer. With this simple TOOLS & MATERIALS
application, your concrete will have a freshly poured Protective gloves Drill with mixing paddle
look and a protective surface layer that’s typically & eyewear
stronger than the garage floor itself. Squeegee
Concrete resurfacer is suitable for any size of Scrub brush Concrete cleaner T
garage floor, outdoors or indoors. You can also apply Pressure washer Concrete resurfacer r
it to vertical surfaces to put a fresh face on steps, Trowel c
Duct tape i
curbs, and exposed patio edges. Depending on the 5-gal. bucket r
condition of the old surface, the new layer can range
Before After
F
c
o
b
Concrete resurfacer offers an easy, inexpensive solution for renewing garage floors that have become chipped and flaked with age. l

01-0903-1 DTP: LY Page: 202
How to Resurface a Garage Floor
1 2
Thoroughly clean the entire project area. If necessary, Wash the concrete with a pressure washer. Set the washer at
remove all oil and greasy or waxy residue using a concrete 3,500 psi and hold the fan-spray tip about 3" from the surface
cleaner and scrub brush. Water beading on the surface or as recommended by the washer manufacturer. Remove
indicates residue that could prevent proper adhesion with the standing water.
resurfacer; clean these areas again as needed.
3 4
Fill sizeable pits and spalled areas using a small batch of On a large project, section off the slab into areas no larger
concrete resurfacer. Mix about 5 pt. of water per 40-lb. bag than 100 sq. ft. It’s easiest to delineate sections along existing
of resurfacer for a trowelable consistency. Repair cracks or control joints. On all projects, cover or seal off all control
broken slab edges as shown on page 185. Smooth the repairs joints with duct tape, foam backer rod, or weather stripping to
level with the surrounding surface and let them harden. prevent resurfacer from spilling into the joints. (continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 203
5 6
O
Mix the desired quantity of concrete resurfacer with water Saturate the work area with water, then use a squeegee to
following the mixing instructions. Work the mix with a 1/2" remove any standing water. Pour the mix of concrete resurfacer
drill and a mixing paddle for 5 minutes to achieve a smooth, onto the center of the repair area or first repair section.
pourable consistency. If necessary, add water sparingly until
the mix will pour easily and spread well with a squeegee.
Spread the resurfacer with the squeegee using a scrubbing motion to make sure all depressions are filled. Then spread it into a
smooth, consistent layer. If desired, broom the surface for a nonslip finish (opposite page). You can also tool the slab edges with
a concrete edger within 20 minutes of application. Let the resurfacer cure.

DTP: LY Page: 204
Options for Finishes
For thicker resurfacing, simply add
more layers of resurfacer as needed.
Wait until the surface can support foot
traffic—typically 2 to 6 hours—before
applying the next coat.
Nonslip broomed finish: Within

5 minutes of applying the resurfacer,
drag a clean fine-bristle push broom
across the surface. Pull the broom
backward in a straight line, moving
across the entire area without stopping.
Repeat in parallel rows until the entire
surface is textured.
Trowel application: A trowel is handy

for resurfacing small areas. Use a stiffer
mix for troweling—approximately 5 pt.
of water per 40-lb. bag of dry mix.
Spread and smooth the resurfacer with
a steel concrete finishing trowel.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 205
Tuning Up Garage Doors TOOLS & MATERIALS
Mineral spirits
Graphite spray lubricant
G arage doors look deceptively simple, and it’s easy to forget they need
any maintenance whatsoever. You pull into your driveway, hit the
remote, the door opens, and in you go. You head into the house after
Garage door weather-stripping
Level
hitting another button and, presto, the door closes. You may do that for Soft-faced mallet
years on end, only really giving it some thought when the door sticks or
Galvanized roofing nails
makes an unpleasant noise. Or, when you pull into the driveway on some
rainy, moonless night, the door simply refuses to go up. That’s when the Penetrating lubricant
importance of garage door maintenance will become most evident. Don’t Toweling
wait for that moment. Socket wrenches
It’s not as if basic maintenance is difficult. It probably won’t take you Lightweight oil
more than an hour to completely check over your entire opener and
door track system, and it will be time well spent. The process of raising Pliers
and lowering a heavy sectional door—often two or more times a day—is Open-end wrenches
bound to put things out of alignment eventually. Fortunately, keeping Old paintbrush or toothbrush
ahead of problems requires no advanced skills and only a few basic tools. Hammer
So what are you waiting for?
An understated, stylishly elegant facade like this can make a garage door seem like a simple thing . . . until you have to deal with
mechanical problems.

DTP: LY Page: 206
How to Tune Up a Garage Door
Begin the tune-up by lubricating the
door tracks, pulleys, and rollers. Use
1 a lightweight oil, not grease, for this
job. The grease catches too much dust
and dirt.
Remove clogged or damaged rollers

from the door by loosening the nuts
2 that hold the roller brackets. The roller
will come with the bracket when the
bracket is pulled free.
Mineral spirits and kerosene are good

solvents for cleaning roller bearings.
3 Let the bearing sit for a half-hour in
the solvent. Then brush away the
grime buildup with an old paintbrush
or toothbrush.
(continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 207
If the rollers are making a lot of noise
as they move over the tracks, the tracks
are probably out of alignment. To fix 4
this, check the tracks for plumb. If they
are out of plumb, the track mounting
brackets must be adjusted.
To adjust out-of-plumb tracks, loosen all

the track mounting brackets (usually
3 or 4 per track) and push the brackets 5
into alignment.
S
r
t
l
It’s often easier to adjust the brackets by

partially loosening the bolts and tapping
the track with a soft-faced mallet. Once 6
the track is plumb, tighten all the bolts.

DTP: LY Page: 208
7 8
Sometimes the door lock bar opens sluggishly because the If a latch needs lubrication, use graphite in powder or liquid
return spring has lost its tension. The only way to fix this is form. Don’t use oil because it attracts dust that will clog the
to replace the spring. One end is attached to the body of the lock even more.
lock; the other end hooks onto the lock bar.
ALTERNATIVE: Sometimes the lock

bar won’t lock the door because it
won’t slide into its opening on the
door track. To fix this, loosen the
guide bracket that holds the lock
bar and move it up or down until
the bar hits the opening.
(continued)

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 209
Worn or broken weather stripping on the
bottom edge of the door can let in a lot
of cold air and stiff breezes. Check to 9
see if this strip is cracked, broken, or
has holes along its edges. If so, remove
the old strip and pull out any nails
left behind.
Measure the width of your garage door,

then buy a piece of weather stripping
to match. These strips are standard 10
lumber yard and home center items. O
Sometimes they are sold in kit form, c
with fasteners included. If not, just nail l
the stripping in place with galvanized
roofing nails.
If the chain on your garage door opener

is sagging more than 1⁄2" below the
bottom rail, it can make a lot of noise 11
and cause drive sprocket wear. Tighten
the chain according to the directions in
the owner’s manual.
C
f
l

DTP: LY Page: 210
11 12
On openers with a chain, lubricate the entire length of the Test the door’s closing force sensitivity and make adjustments
chain with lightweight oil. Do not use grease. Use the same at the opener’s motor case if needed. Because both the
lubricant if your opener has a drive screw instead. sensitivity and the adjustment mechanism vary greatly between
opener models, you’ll have to rely on your owner’s manual
for guidance. If you don’t have the owner’s manual, you can
usually download one from the manufacturer’s website.
13 14
Check for proper alignment on the safety sensors near the Make sure that the sensors are “talking” to the opener properly.
floor. They should be pointing directly at one another and their Start to close the door, then put your hand down between
lenses should be clean of any dirt and grease. the two sensors. If the door stops immediately and reverses
direction, it’s working properly. If it doesn’t, make the
adjustment recommended in the owner’s manual. If that
doesn’t do the trick, call a professional door installer and don’t
use the door until it passes this test.

nd Edition
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Special Section: Bonus Garage Plans
T he six garage designs in this section include all the
plans you’ll need to build the garages. Depending
on your local building department’s requirements, you
craftsperson looking for a modest challenge. However,
you can use the plans and the footprints of any one
of these as a departure point for a more elaborate
may even be able to use these plans for the building design. Or go to the plan supplier’s website at www.
permit process. justgarageplans.com for a larger selection, including
The garages included here are generally simple. units from two to four bays, and even some with
They are meant to be doable projects for the home second stories.
Detached One-Car Garage with Front Gable

The Detached One-Car Garage with Front Gable features a truss roof frame, side door, and
14 × 24-foot interior. With sufficient space for a car, this classic-style garage is relatively
simple to build and provides high owner satisfaction.
Courtesy JustGaragePlans.com, Plan 1301

DTP: LY Page: 212
FLOOR PLAN
14' 0"
7' 0" 7' 0"
A-2
2-4 × 4-6
11' 0"
11' 0"
2-4 × 4-6
2-4 × 4-6
24' 0"
22 × 30"
access
24' 0"
Attic
Slope
Slab
7' 8"
13' 0"
2-
8
Girder truss
5' 4"
9 × 7' overhead garage door
Floor Plan Notes:

All door and window headers
(2) 2 × 12 × 12'
are (2) 2 × 10s with ½"
header at left
plywood (solid) between
unless otherwise noted on 7' 0" 7' 0"
floor plans
denotes (3) 2 × 4 post 14' 0"

unless otherwise noted on
floor plans. Provide solid blocking
below all posts to foundation.

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 213
FRONT ELEVATION
6/12 pitch 12 × 24" vent

with screen
12 12 2 × 8 rake board
8 8
1 × 6 frieze board
Top plate
Lap siding
9' 11⁄8"
Downspouts
Gutters
Top of
foundation
RIGHT ELEVATION
Valley flashing 12 × 24" vent with screen

8/12 pitch 12 12
6 6 2 × 8 rake board
Lap siding
LEFT ELEVATION
12 × 24" vent with screen Valley flashing
12 12 8/12 pitch
6 6
Lap siding

DTP: LY Page: 214
WALL DETAIL
All overhangs are 1' 0" unless otherwise noted
Shingles on 15# felt paper
½" plywood roof decking
Rafter ties each bearing point
Metal drip edge

Vented vinyl soffits
½" CDX plywood exterior wall sheathing
2 × 4 studs at 16" on center
2 × 4 pressure-treated sill plate Vinyl lap siding
½ × 12" anchor bolts at 48" on center
Grade
8" minimum
8"-thick concrete foundation wall

with 2 #4 rebars in top and bottom
2 × 4 key in footing

with 2 #4 rebars

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 215
Detached Two-Car Garage with Separate Garage Doors
Featuring a front-side door and a spacious 30 × 30-foot interior, the Detached Two-Car
Garage with Separate Garage Doors provides space for two cars/trucks with room to spare.
The garage features side windows and roof-apex vent screens.

DTP: LY Page: 216
FLOOR PLAN
30' 0"
A-3
GFI
15' 0"
15' 0"
GFI GFI
3-0 × 3-0
3-0 × 3-0
30' 0"
30' 0"
15' 0"
GFI 15' 0"

Slope
G.D.O. G.D.O.
Slab
GFI
2 1¾" × 117⁄8" × 29' continuous LVL microllam
garage door header. Header shall extend 1' 6"
minimum beyond each door opening 3-
0
9 × 7' overhead garage door 9 × 7' overhead garage door SS
7' 0" 11' 6" 8' 4" 3' 2"
30' 0"

nd Edition
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FRONT ELEVATION
4/12 pitch
Gutter
Top plate
Lap siding
Downspouts
9' 11⁄8"
Top of
foundation
RIGHT ELEVATION
18 × 24" vent with screen
12 12
4 4
2 × 8 rake board
Lap siding
LEFT ELEVATION
12 12
4 4
2 × 8 rake board
Lap siding

DTP: LY Page: 218
WALL DETAIL
All overhangs are 1' 0" unless otherwise noted on elevations or roof plan
Metal drip edge

Optional:
• R-13 insulation in walls
• R-30 insulation in ceiling
• ½" gypsum on walls and ceiling
4" concrete slab over

4" compacted gravel fill Grade
8" minimum


with 2 #4 rebars

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 219
Detached One-Car Garage with Workshop/Storage Space
At 14 × 28 feet, the Detached One-Car Garage with Workshop/Storage Space is roomy
enough for a vehicle and then some. The 13-foot truss roof leaves 5 feet of space for
rafter storage.

DTP: LY Page: 220
FLOOR PLAN
e
14' 0"
GFI
A-4
12' 2"
3-0 × 3-0
GFI
28' 0"
28' 0"
Slope
Slab
GFI
11' 4"
G.D.O.
SS
3-
0
Garage door header

(2) 2 × 12 × 12' long.
4' 6"
Centered on door.
7' 0" 7' 0"
14' 0"

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 221
FRONT ELEVATION
Attic vent with 4' base and screen
12 12
6 6
2 × 8 rake board
Top plate
Lap siding
Downspouts
8' 11⁄8"
Top of
foundation
RIGHT ELEVATION
6/12 pitch
Gutter
Lap siding
LEFT ELEVATION
6/12 pitch
Gutter
Lap siding

DTP: LY Page: 222
WALL DETAIL
Metal drip edge
Pre-engineered roof trusses at 24" on center

2 × 4 pressure-treated sill plate IRC-approved vinyl lap siding
Grade
8" minimum


with 2 #4 rebars

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 223
Detached Three-Car-Plus Garage with RV/Boat Storage
At 34 × 38 feet and a towering 21 feet high at the tallest roof apex, the Detached Three-Car-
Plus Garage with RV/Boat Storage has enough room for your life and your hobbies. With
multiple windows, truss overhead storage in both garages, and a left-side door, this garage
has all the features serious hobbyists crave.

DTP: LY Page: 224
FLOOR PLAN
38' 0"
29' 0" 9' 0"
5-0 × 4-0 slider
Slider 5-0 × 4-0

GFI GFI GFI GFI
3' 0"
6' 6"
6-0 frame opening
(3) 2 × 12 header
3-2 × 12 header
6' 0"
15' 0"
GFI
Slider 5-0 × 4-0
GFI
28' 0"
9' 0"
GFI
19' 0"
GFI
34' 0"
6-0 frame opening
(3) 2 × 12 header
G.D.O. G.D.O.
GFI
13' 0"
6' 0"
3-2 × 12 header
(3) 1¾" × 117⁄8" × 19' 8"
LVL microllam door
header. Centered on door.
3' 0"
Slider 5-0 × 4-0

GFI
Slope

Slab
SS
GFI
3' 0"
8' 6"
6' 0"
0
3-
3' 0"
(3) 2 × 12 garage door header

10' 0" 10' 0" WP/GFI
20' 0" 9' 0" 18' 0" 9' 0"
38' 0"

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 225
FRONT ELEVATION
12 12
6 6
Valley flashing
6/12 pitch Top plate
Lap siding
Top plate
16' 0"
12 × 14' overhead
10' 0"
garage door
16 × 8' overhead
garage door
Top of Top of
foundation foundation
RIGHT ELEVATION
6/12 pitch
Gutter
Lap siding
Downspout
LEFT ELEVATION
Valley flashing 18 × 24" 6/12 pitch

12 vent with screen
6 Gutter
Lap siding
Downspout

DTP: LY Page: 226
WALL DETAIL
Metal drip edge

Provide 2 × 6 blocking between all

studs at mid-height of 16' walls
Grade
8" minimum


with 2 #4 rebars

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 227
Detached Three-Car Garage with Hip Roof
The stylish Detached Three-Car Garage with Hip Roof has side windows, attic vents, and
a left-side door. With plenty of room for three vehicles, or two vehicles and a workshop/
storage, this garage provides tons of space and versatility.

DTP: LY Page: 228
FLOOR PLAN
36' 0"
A-3
GFI
Girder truss Girder truss GFI

GFI
14' 0"
14' 0"
trusses @ 24" on center
Pre-engineered roof
22 × 30"
3-0 × 3-0
3-0 × 3-0
attic access Mono-trusses at
Mono-trusses at
24" on center
28' 0"
28' 0"
24" on center
WP/GFI
Slope
Slab
GFI
9' 6"
G.D.O. G.D.O. GFI
14' 0"
SSS
0 (2) 1¾ × 14" LVL (3) 2 × 6 posts each end

3- microllam garage
(3) 1¾ × 14" LVL microllam
door header
4' 6"
garage door header

9 × 8' overhead garage door 16 × 8' overhead garage door
8' 6" 15' 6" 12' 0"

36' 0"

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 229
FRONT ELEVATION
6/12 pitch
12 12
7 7
Gutter
Top plate
Downspouts
9' 11⁄8"
Lap
siding
Top of
foundation
RIGHT ELEVATION
12 7/12 pitch 12
6 6
Lap siding
LEFT ELEVATION
12 7/12 pitch 12
6 6
Lap siding

DTP: LY Page: 230
WALL DETAIL
Metal drip edge

Optional:
• R-13 insulation in walls
• R-30 insulation in ceiling
• ½" gypsum on walls and ceiling
Grade
8" minimum


with 2 #4 rebars

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 231
Simple Detached Two-Car Garage
At 20 × 20 feet, with windows on three sides, and a right-side door, the Simple Detached
Two-Car Garage is an excellent choice for owners without a need for garage storage or a
workshop. With the apexes of the roof on the sides, the garage looks deceptively small.

DTP: LY Page: 232
FLOOR PLAN
20' 0"
10' 0" 10' 0"
A-3
3-0 × 3-0
GFI
10' 0"
10' 0"
GFI GFI
3-0 × 3-0
3-0 × 3-0
Slope
Slab
20' 0"
20' 0"
5' 10"
G.D.O.
SSS
10' 0"
(2) 1¾ × 11¼" × 19' 0" continuous LVL 3-

microllam header, centered above door 0
WP/GFI
4' 2"
(2) 1¾ × 117⁄8" LVL
10' 0" 10' 0"
20' 0"

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 233
FRONT ELEVATION
5/12 pitch
Gutter
Top plate
Downspout
8' 11⁄8"
Top of
foundation
RIGHT ELEVATION

12 12
5 5
2 × 8 rake board
Downspout
Lap siding
LEFT ELEVATION

12 12
5 5
2 × 8 rake board
Downspout
Lap siding

DTP: LY Page: 234
WALL DETAIL
Metal drip edge

Grade
8" minimum


with 2 #4 rebars

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 235
Resources M
ArmorPoxy Diamond Life Just Garage Plans
C
Garage floor coatings Pegboard and wall hangers Garage plans
(888) 755-7361 (888) 983-4327 (866) 256-6245
www.armorpoxy.com www.diamondlifegear.com www.justgarageplans.com
Barn Pros Flow Wall RaceDeck Garage Floors

Garage kits Garage organization and storage solutions Garage flooringa
(866) 844-2276 (877) 203-5974 (800) 457-0174
www.barnpros.com www.flowwall.com www.racedeck.com
Black & Decker Gladiator Sutherlands

Tools and equipment Garage storage products Garage kits
(800) 544-6986 (866) 342-4089 (800) 225-6729
www.blackanddecker.com www.gladiatorgarageworks.com www.sutherlands.com
California Closets Haiku Home Swisstrax

Garage wall storage systems Garage and Workshop LED Lights Garage flooring
(855) 336-9590 (844) 289-4987 (866) 748-7940
www.californiaclosets.com/garage-accessories www.haikuhome.com/garage-light www.swisstrax.com
Clopay Garage Doors Horizon Structures L

Garage doors Prefab garage kits
(800) 225-6729 (888) 210-5861
www.clopaydoor.com www.horizonstructures.com
Photo Credits
M
ArmorProxy: 11 (top, both)
Beth Singer: 12 (top)
California Closets: 11 (bottom), 120
Clopay: 10 (top), 14 (top)
Lee Klancher: 15 (bottom)
Shutterstock: 5, 127

DTP: LY Page: 236
Metric Conversion Charts
CONVERTING MEASUREMENTS
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Cubic inches Cubic centimeters 16.4 Cubic centimeters Cubic inches 0.061
Cubic feet Cubic meters 0.0283 Cubic meters Cubic feet 35.3
Cubic yards Cubic meters 0.765 Cubic meters Cubic yards 1.31
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2
LUMBER DIMENSIONS
NOMINAL - U.S. ACTUAL - U.S. (IN INCHES) METRIC NOMINAL - U.S. ACTUAL - U.S. (IN INCHES) METRIC
1×2 ¾ × 1½ 19 × 38 mm 2×4 1½ × 3½ 38 × 89 mm
1×3 ¾ × 2½ 19 × 64 mm 2×6 1½ × 5½ 38 × 140 mm
1×4 ¾ × 3½ 19 × 89 mm 2×8 1½ × 7¼ 38 × 184 mm
1×6 ¾ × 5½ 19 × 140 mm 2 × 10 1½ × 9¼ 38 × 235 mm
1×8 ¾ × 7¼ 19 × 184 mm 2 × 12 1½ × 11¼ 38 × 286 mm
1 × 10 ¾ × 9¼ 19 × 235 mm 4×4 3½ × 3½ 89 × 89 mm
1 × 12 ¾ × 11¼ 19 × 286 mm 4×6 3½ × 5½ 89 × 140 mm
2×2 1½ × 1½ 38 × 38 mm 6×6 5½ × 5½ 140 × 140 mm
2×3 1½ × 2½ 38 × 64 mm 8×8 7¼ × 7¼ 184 × 184 mm
METRIC PLYWOOD COUNTERBORE, SHANK & PILOT HOLE DIAMETERS

STANDARD SHEATHING GRADE SANDED GRADE (INCHES)
7.5 mm (5⁄16") 6 mm (4⁄17")
SCREW COUNTERBORE CLEARANCE PILOT HOLE DIAMETER
9.5 mm (3⁄8") 8 mm (5⁄16")
SIZE DIAMETER FOR HOLE FOR
12.5 mm (½") 11 mm (7⁄16")
SCREW HEAD SCREW SHANK HARD WOOD SOFT WOOD
15.5 mm (5⁄8") 14 mm (9⁄16")
18.5 mm (¾") 17 mm (2⁄3") #1 .146 (9⁄64) 5
⁄64 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
20.5 mm (13⁄16") 19 mm (¾") #2 ¼ 3
⁄32 3
⁄64 1
⁄32
22.5 mm (7⁄8") 21 mm (13⁄16") #3 ¼ 7
⁄64 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
25.5 mm (1") 24 mm (15⁄16") #4 ¼ 1
⁄8 1
⁄16 3
⁄64
#5 ¼ 1
⁄8 5
⁄64 1
⁄16
#6 5
⁄16 9
⁄64 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#7 5
⁄16 5
⁄32 3
⁄32 5
⁄64
#8 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#9 3
⁄8 11
⁄64 1
⁄8 3
⁄32
#10 3
⁄8 3
⁄16 1
⁄8 7
⁄64
#11 ½ 3
⁄16 5
⁄32 9
⁄64
#12 ½ 7
⁄32 9
⁄64 1
⁄8
METRIC CONVERSION CHARTS 237

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 237
f
f
Index f
g
g
air-entrained concrete, 20 conversion charts, 237 etching, 186, 188–189 g
asphalt shingles, 53 cornice blocking, 50 exhaust fans, 122 g
cornice filler pieces, 50 g
bleed water, 25 counterbore diameters, 237 fascia, installing, 48–51
bracing, temporary, 30, 40 cripple studs, 32–33 fascia covers, 51
building paper (roofing felt), 52, 54 fiber-cement lap siding
building permits, 19 detached garages about, 75
building section, 18 one-car, with front gable, installing, 78–81 g
212–215 for interior walls, 153 g
cabinets one-car with workshop, 220–223 fiber-cement nail coil, 78 g
installing, 166–169 simple two-car, 232–235 fire-rated drywall, 153 G
installing slat-wall, 174–177 single, 84–89 flashing, 62, 149 G
options for, 15 three-car, plus RV/boat storage, floor plans, 19 g
cap shingles, 57–58 224–227 floors/flooring g
cast veneer stone three-car, with hip roof, 228–231 cleaning, 186–188
about, 75–76 two-car with separate doors, etching, 186, 188–189 h
installing, 76–77 216–219 finish options for, 205 h
tools for working with, 78 diagonal distances, measuring, 27 improvements to, 184–185 h
CDX plywood, 44, 52 doors installing interlocking tiles, h
cedar siding panels, 153 framing, 32, 35, 61 192–195 h
ceiling storage unit, installing, installing, 60–61, 65–67 options for, 184, 186
178–179 installing overhead, 68–72 painting, 184, 186–187, 191 i
ceilings, finishing, 180–182, 183 installing reinforcement for, 67 patching, 185 i
cementboard shears, 78 marking, 30 renewing, 202 i
circular saw, 78 openers for, 73, 196–198 resurfacing, 203–205 i
coil nailer, 78 options for, 199 sealing, 186, 190
collar ties, 36, 41 tuning up, 206–211 treatments for, 186–191
compact fluorescent lights drainage, 19 fluorescent lighting J
(CFL), 137 drill with hole saw, 78 about, 137 j
compact garage drip edge, 52, 54, 55 converting to LED, 136–139
about, 90–91 drywall installing, 134–135 L
building, 99–103 about, 152 foundation
cutting list for, 93 fire-rated, 153 building, 20–25
plans for, 93–98 hanging, 154 for compact garage, 99
concrete for gambrel garage, 114 l
estimating, 23 eaves, enclosing, 50 overview of, 20 l
ordering, 20 electrical service plans for, 21 l
pouring for slab foundation, improvements to, 125–126 pouring concrete, 22–25
22–25 installing, 127–133 framing
resurfacing, 202–205 load requirements, 122 for doors and windows, 32, 35
continuous ridge vent, 52, 58–59 end blocking, 29 for garage, 28–35

DTP: LY Page: 238
for roof, 36–43 converting fluorescent fixture to planning, considerations for, 19
tips for, 27, 61 LED, 136–139 plans
frieze boards, 79 improvements to, 125 for compact garage, 90–103
front framing elevation, 19 installing fluorescent light for detached one-car garage with
furring strips, 158 fixtures, 134–135 front gable, 212–215
number of fixtures for space, 134 for detached one-car garage
gable studs, 41 locksets, 67 with workshop/storage space,
gable top plates, 41 loft, adding custom, 180–182 220–223
gables, soffits in, 51 lookouts, 41 for detached three-car garage
gallery of garages, 8–15 lumber dimensions, 237 with hip roof, 228–231
gambrel garage for detached three-car garage
about, 104–105 maintenance with RV/boat storage, 224–227
building, 114–119 overview of, 201 for detached two-car garage with
cutting list for, 106 renewing floor, 205 separate doors,
plans, 107–113 tuning up doors, 206–211 216–219
gambrel roof, 105 metal pegboard, 157 for gambrel garage, 104–119
garage door openers, 73, 196–198 metalworking benches, 122 making, 18–19
garage workshop, 122–124 metric conversion charts, 237 overview of, 83
GFCI breaker, 127, 132 metric plywood, 237 for simple detached two-car
GFCI receptacles, 126 garage, 232–235
grounding clip, 126 National Electrical Code (NEC), 126 for single detached garage,
grounding screw, 126 new garages, building 84–89
building foundation for, 20–25 for slab foundation, 21
hand-nailing technique, 27 building roof for, 52–59 plywood
hanger hardware, 157 framing & raising walls for, CDX, 44, 52
hardboard, 157 26–35 metric, 237
headers, 32 installing fascia & soffits on, for walls, 44, 152, 153
housewrap, 46–47 48–51 pneumatic framing nailer, 27
installing overhead garage doors power scrubber/buffer, 187
incandescent lighting, 137 in, 68–73 power washers, 187
insulation, 64, 151 installing roof framing for, 36–43
interior walls, finishing, 152–155 installing siding & trim on, rafter ties, 37, 39
interlocking floor tiles, installing, 74–81 rafters, 36, 37, 38–39, 40, 146
192–195 installing windows & service remodeling garage
doors in, 60–67 adding custom loft, 180–182
J bolts, 24, 28 making plans for, 18–19 adding window, 140–145
jigsaw, 78 overview of, 17 converting fluorescent fixture to
sheathing walls for, 44–47 LED, 136–139
LED lights electrical & lighting
about, 137 oriented strand board (OSB), 44, 52, improvements, 125–126
converting fluorescent fixture to, 152, 153 finishing ceilings, 183
136, 138–139 overhead garage doors, installing, finishing interior walls,
ledgers, 166, 168 68–72 152–155
lift cables, 70 floor improvements, 184–185
lighting patching garage floors, 185 floor treatments, 186–191
about, 13 pegboard, hanging, 156–159 garage door openers, 196–199
choices for, 137 pilot hole diameters, 237 garage workshop, 122–124
INDEX 239

nd Edition
DTP: LY Page: 239
hanging pegboard, 156–159 sheathing walls, 44–47 subfascia, 49
installing adjustable shelving sheet goods, 153 synthetic doors, 199
systems, 160–161 shelf brackets, 160–161
installing cabinets, 166–169 shelves/shelving tempered hardboard, 157
installing ceiling storage unit, ceiling hung, 178–179 threshold, 35
178–179 installing adjustable, 160–161 tile flooring, installing interlocking,
installing complete slat-wall utility, 162–165 192–195
system, 170–177 wire, 15 trim, 74
installing electrical service, see also storage trusses
127–133 shingles about, 42
installing fluorescent light about, 53 dos and don’ts for, 43
fixtures, 134–135 installing, 55–58 skylights and, 146
installing interlocking tile siding working with, 43
flooring, 192–195 about, 74
installing skylight, 146–149 installing, 76–81 utility benches, 122
overview of, 121 for interior walls, 153 utility lines, 19
utility shelves, 162–165 types of, 75–76 utility shelves, 162–165
walls & storage, 150–151 sill detail, 19
resources, 236 single detached garage plans, ventilation, 122
respirator, 78 84–89 vertical joints, 49
ridge caps, 57 skylight, installing, 146–149 vinyl lap siding, 75
ridge vent, 52, 58–59 slab-on-grade foundation, 20
ridgeboard, 36, 39–40 slat-wall system walls
rollers, maintenance for, 207–208 about, 13 finished, 150
roof installing complete, 170–177 finishing, 152–155
building, 52–59 soffits finishing with sheathing, 155
framing for, 36 in gables, 51 framing & raising, 26–34
sheathing for, 52 installing, 48–51 insulating, 151
roof deck, preparing, 54–55 soil, 19 sheathing, 44–47
roofing felt (building paper), 52, 54 sole plates, 28 weather stripping, 210
speed square, 37 windows
safety spring cables, 72 adding, 140–145
for garage door openers, 73 standards and brackets, 160–161 framing, 32, 61
for wiring, 126 steel doors, 199 installing, 60–65
working on roofs, 56 storage marking, 30
safety sensors, 211 about, 150–151 wiring safety, 126
sealing garage floors, 186, 190 custom loft for, 180–182 wood doors, 199
service doors examples of, 11–13, 15 wood lap siding, 75
installing, 65–66 installing ceiling unit, 178–179 woodworking benches, 122
tips for, 65 see also cabinets; workbenches, 122
setback requirements, 19 shelves/shelving workshops
shank diameters, 237 studs, 29 about, 122
plans for, 123–124

DTP: LY Page: 240

The Complete Guide To Garages - Design, Build, Remodel & Maintain Your Garage

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The Complete Guide to

GARAGES 2nd Edition

Design, Build, Remodel & Maintain Your Garage

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 1 1/18/17 10:50 AM

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 2 1/18/17 10:50 AM

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 3 1/18/17 10:50 AM

Remodeling a Garage 121

162 Hanging Pegboard 156

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 4 25/1/17 11:12 am

Garage Maintenance 201 180

Renewing a Garage Floor 202

Special Section: Bonus Garage Plans 212

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 5 1/18/17 10:50 AM

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 6 1/18/17 10:50 AM

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 7 1/18/17 10:50 AM

A ttached or not, garages these days are as much

Spectacular design highlights this garage that makes a bold

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 9 1/18/17 10:51 AM

Match garage doors to the home’s architectural style for big

10 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GARAGES

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 10 1/18/17 10:51 AM

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 11 1/18/17 10:51 AM

12 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GARAGES

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 12 1/18/17 10:51 AM

Light for the best

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 13 1/18/17 10:51 AM

14 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GARAGES

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 14 25/1/17 12:41 pm

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_001-015.indd 15 1/18/17 10:51 AM

H ere you have the opportunity to follow along

BUILDING A NEW GARAGE 17

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_016-081.indd 17 1/18/17 10:53 AM

T o successfully build your own garage you must

2 × 4 Collar, 32" O.C.

2 × 4 Rafter, 16" O.C.

Double 2 × 4 top plates

24 2 × 4 Studs, 16" O.C.

2 × 4 Bottom plate, set on joists

2 × 6 Joists, 16" O.C.

Double 2 × 4 top plates

w/ 1⁄2" plywood spacer

Texture 1-11 plywood siding

2 × 4 Studs, 16" O.C.

4" Compacted gravel

18 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GARAGES

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_016-081.indd 18 1/18/17 10:53 AM

FLOOR PLAN PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS

• Soil and drainage: To ensure that your foundation will

soil in an area that won’t collect water.

• Utility lines: Contact local utility providers to find

run through your property. Often, local ordinances

and utility companies require lines to be marked

• Building permits: Obtain permits, if your local

8' × 6'-8" Garage door

BUILDING A NEW GARAGE 19

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_016-081.indd 19 1/18/17 10:53 AM

T he slab foundation commonly used for garages is

20 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GARAGES

0903 - BD Complete Guide to Garages_2nd Edition_016-081.indd 20 1/18/17 10:53 AM

Top/foundation wall elevation 0'-0" 13⁄4 Typ. - for

anchor bolt location

Anchor bolts - typ.

Notch foundation 8" Pitch floor 2"