GOLDFISH FOR YOUR OUTDOOR POND!

FISHKEEPER
THE MARCH/APRIL ‘21 Vol. 12/No. 02

For the Aquarist: Freshwater & Marine

The

Toby Or Not
website for the aquarist

fishkeeper .co.za

Toby!
That is the Question?
Cryptocaryon
irritans or White
Spot Disease!
Choosing
Invertebrates
and their
compatibility!

A Simple
Combination of
Unsan Stones and The Emerald Dwarf
Rasbora
Wabi-Kusa!

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 1

 While mandarins are often found
in small groups or pairs in the wild,
males are intolerant of each other
in the confines of an aquarium.

Terrarium Plants 101...pg28

Should I Feed Mice or Rats?
...pg04

Vol. 13 | No. 03 | May/June

2019
Subscribe online at
The Bamboo
Ratsnake www.ultimateexotics.co.za
care and breeding

The Bushmaster
(Lachesis)

WOMA HUSBANDR
Y
AND CAPTIVE
BREEDING

INTRODUCTION
the #1 reptile and exotic
pet website

Ultimate

TO BLUE TONGUE SKINKS

exotics.co.za
Pg. 08
Tarantula Cages Pg. 38

pi

info@aviproducts.co.za

2 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

For the Aquarist: Freshwater & Marine
Contents
South Africa’s only magazine for marine and freshwater aquarium hobbyists.

MARCH/APRIL Vol 12 / No 2/ 2021

34

features 32 YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

We all have questions when it comes to fishkeeping so due to

06 THE EMERALD OF THE DANIO’S
A tiny overlooked gem, this minute species is a welcome addition
to any nano set up.
12 AANDSIMPLE COMBINATION OF UNSAN STONES
WABI-KUSA!
Aqua Design Amano are back with another indepth article this time
incorporating the use of the Unsan Stone and
popular demand we have decided to start up a new section within
the magazine where we do our best to answer the questions that
you our readers have.
CHOOSING INVERTEBRATES AND THEIR
34 COMPATIBILITY
Reef tanks are becoming ever popular overtime. The allure of
colourful corals in particular is just too hard to pass over, a long
with the various other species of beautiful invertebrates that are
becoming even more common to acquire. But what to get and
what goes with what is the question.

20 TOBY OR NOT TOBY

That is the question? 40 GOLDFISH FOR YOUR OUTDOOR POND
We all know of Goldfish, but do you know there are a number
Tim Smith once again brings us a fantastic feature article, this
of species that are commonly available.to us which would make
time on one of the smaller pufferfish families that are regularly
fantastic additions to a pond.
available to the home aquarist. The Canthigasters also known as
Tobies!

CRYPTOCARYON IRRITANS OR WHITE SPOT

regulars
26 DISEASE 04 From the Editor
One of the most common if not the most common ailments within
the marine aquarium. Dr Gerald Bassleer talks about this little 05 About the Editor
parasite and how it may be dealt with.
42 Advertiser’s Index

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 3

 Editorial
T
he ability for certain
fish species to
change sex has
always been a fascinating
topic to myself, having
witnessed in numerous
species of clownfish in
over the years at public
aquaria in my particular.
To my utter shock an
amazement just over
a few weeks ago, not
only did I witness this
in my own fishroom but
in a species in which
there has been very little
speculation it can occur
let alone much evidence.
Around eight months
ago I purchased a trio
of Apistogramma sp
agassizzi alenquer
incorporating one
male, his female and
a young female from a
previous clutch of theirs.
Four months later I
unfortunately stumbled upon a dried up husk of the male on the floor of the
fish room. I was devastated, thinking my opportunity to breed this species
was over.
Low and behold one morning I entered my little fishkeeping haven to gaze
upon the female looking over a group of wrigglers inside the cave. This
had confirmed my suspicions of a change of sex occuring in the older
female. Over time her tail had developed the characteristic look of a males,
with myself and the previous owner having been back and forth with me
questioning her sex and him reassuring me of it.
Isn’t nature just amazing as it always figures itself out!
Lastly I just would like to wish everyone the best during these challenging,
and confusing times. Please stay safe and look after yourselves and your
families. I wish you all a good year a head.
I hope you enjoy this issue! Happy reading, and happy fishkeeping!
The Editor
DEADLINES
Issue Colour Adverts
May/June 20 March 2021
July/August 20 May 2021
September/October 20 July 2021
4 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za
THE FISHKEEPER
volume 12 | number 2
March/April 2021
Managing Editor
Design Layout
Advertisements
Subscriptions
Sales
Matt Needham
Proof Reading
Liaquat H Sain
Contact the Editor at
editor@thefishkeeper.co.za
for any inquiries on advertising,
sales etc
Disclaimer: The Editor and
Publishers of The Fishkeeper do
not accept any liability whatsoever
with regard to any statement, fact,
advertisement or recommendation
made in this magazine and do not
necessarily agree with the viewpoints
expressed by contributors to The
Fishkeeper magazine.
© 2021 by The Fishkeeper. All rights
reserved. Reproduction of any
material from this issue in whole or in
part is strictly prohibited.
“a righteous man cares for the
needs of his animals,”
PROVERBS 12:10
Editor: editor@thefishkeeper.co.za
Subscribe now!
Email us at editor@thefishkeeper.
co.za for info on how to subscribe,
alternatively you can purchase your
subscription off Pocketmags or on
TheFishkeeper app which can be
found on Google play store and
Apple’s equivalent.
Cover Photo:
Blue Spotted Puffer/Toby
(Canthigaster solandri)
 About the Editor!
Matt Needham was born in Durban in 1985.
His passion for fish began at a very young
age with picking up his first aquarium at the
age of 10 as a Christmas present. Around
the time he was 16 he had 20 tanks and
had started working at his local petshop on
weekends, where he was approached to run
their fish section.
Once he had finished school he attended
the University of Kwa-Zulu Natal where
he acquired a degree in Environmental
sciences life stream. During this period he
had purchased approximately 100 tanks and
had begun to breed freshwater Angelfish on
a commercial scale, with around 20 pairs
spawning. After University he moved to the
UK for a couple of seasons to pursue his
cricket career and unfortunately shut down
his breeding operation where he bred well
over 50 different species of fish with great
success, with the majority of these being Above and Below: The Editor with two different species of Loricariidae
Cichlids. During this period he studied a found along tributaries of the Rio Negro river, Brazil.
Diploma in Ichthyology through the Institute
of Animal Health Care in the UK.
On his arrival back into the country in 2010, he SeaWorld under SAAMBR. He started working there
inquired about a potential position at uShaka as an intern in January 2011 of which he then received
a full time position as an Aquarist in the aquarium from
April that year, where he works with various species
of marine fish, elasmobranchs and corals. During his
time at SAAMBR he has been involved with numerous
projects ranging from reproduction of fish at the
aquarium and helping ORI with coral work in Sodwana
Bay. In 2017 he won an award at the Pan African
Association for Zoos and Aquaria conferance for his
presentation on the captive spawning of the coral
Acropora appressa and linking it to the wild.
In 2013 Matt was invited along as a representative
on an Amazon fisheries project called Project Piaba.
The goal of the project was to help the local fisherman
improve their methods of capturing wild caught
specimens for the aquarium hobby. In doing this it kept
them in a self sustainable industry instead of moving
over to destructive practices such as forestry and
mining.
Matt has well over 20 years of experience in the
commercial trade and breeding of ornamental fish
and has regularly contributed to The Fishkeeper over
the years. He was approached mid way through 2019
with regards to taking over the production of The
Fishkeeper.

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 5

 Freshwater

T h e E m e r a l d
of D a n i o’s By: Matt Needham

The Emerald dwarf rasbora, Danio erythromicron proves a welcome addition

to all smallish planted set ups. Their stunning appearance, particularly that
of the males is a joy to behold as they dart in and out of the dense vegetation
provided within an aquarium. Below we dive into the world of these little,
rather hard to come by gems of the fishkeeping hobby.

D
anio erythromicron which is
commonly referred to as the
Emerald dwarf rasbora, is in
fact not a rasbora at all but rather
one of the smaller species of the well
known danio family.
This tiny cyprinid is primarily known
to exist in the mountain lake of Inle
and its surroundings in eastern
Myanmar although it has been found
within rice paddies in the surrounding
human inhabitated areas.
Lake Inle lays 900m above sea
level and consists of clear, shallow
water with a very fertile substrate.
The emerald dwarf rasbora is
predominantly collected along the
edges of the lake where grass and
reeds dominate.
Due to the lake’s location, it consists
of fairly neutral to alkaline water with
a pH ranging between 7.5 and 8.

Life in the aquarium

Even though this little gem of
a species does not grow larger
than around 2cm, a standard 2ft
tank measuring 60cm by 30cm is
recommended due to the behaviour
of adult males which may be seen as
combative. This slightly larger surface
area will allow any less dominant
males to flee from a more dominant

6 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

“Breeding the Emerald
dwarf rasbora is
relatively easy to
achieve and is within
the capability of even
the amateur aquarist.”
individual or group.
Fairly timid, the Emerald dwarf
rasbora does well in a densely
planted aquarium with a darker
substrate. The plant coverage will
aid in breaking up line of sight which
aids in reducing any aggressive
behaviour amongst mature males.
It will also help in making this tiny
species less timid in nature, offering
the opportunity to see them at their
best. Floating plants are also a
useful addition, helping to create
sight barriers within the whole water
column.
Driftwood as well as any botanicals
should be left out of the aquarium
due to the fact that the tannins they
release are not witnessed within
their natural environment. Botanicals
also aid in lowering pH within soft
water aquariums which is not needed
due to the water parameters which
D.erythromicron requires in order to
thrive.
As mentioned earlier, a pH of 7 to 8
is ideal in order for them to thrive with
a hardness in the range of 200 to
350ppm. Due to their natural locality
being within a mountain range, they
are seen as a temperate species with
a range of 20 to 24ºC being perfect.
Due to the Emerald dwarf rasbora’s

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 7

 “Male D.erythromicron are easy to
sex in comparison to their female
counterparts. Their colour is far
more intense, with vivid blue barring
along their flank and red colouration
in the fins.”

Nelize Van Driel

A pair of Emerald Dwarf Rasbora’s, female on the left, male

right. Note the difference in colour.
small stature, their diet consists of smaller prey
items of planktonic nature. This incorporates
algae and zooplankton.
Within the aquarium they will accept dried foods
of an appropriate size although this should not be
fed exclusively.
Small daily meals of live or frozen zooplankton
such as juvenile artemia and daphnia will not
only bring out their colouration but also bring
them up to spawning condition.
Newly acquired specimens are known to be in
poor condition and may require purely live food in
order to bring them up to decent condition.
As mentioned earlier, the emerald dwarf
rasbora is a shy species which may be easily
outcompeted by larger more boisterous
individuals within the aquarium. Similar sized
species within the Danio complex are ideal
tank mates. The Celestial pearl danio, Danio
margaritatus unfortunately does not fall into this
category predominantly due to the potential for
the two species to hybridize.
An interesting project which is well within the
capability of many aquarists is the option of
setting up a Lake Inle community biotype.
Fortunately, a good few of the species within
the lake are available in the trade, such as
Sawbwa resplendens, Inlecypris auropurpureus,
Microrasbora rubescens, Pethia stoliczkana,
Parambassis lala and Yunnanilus brevis.
Rather gregarious in nature, it is a common sight
to see males sparring with each other during the
day. Often individuals are observed with nipped
fins from this intraspecific competition within this
species, although this behaviour does not carry
over to tank mates. Aggression towards other
species is practically non-existent.
It is a good idea to buy a group of atleast 10
although a larger group will aid in spreading the
male’s aggression amongst all. Larger shoals will
tend to show better colouration as they display
to each other within the aquarium. The larger
the shoal, the greater the confidence and the
higher the likeliness of observing the shoal in the

8 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

 open rather than hiding within the
dense vegetation which should be
provided.

Reproduction
Male D.erythromicron are easy to
sex in comparison to their female
counterparts. Their colour is far
more intense, with vivid blue
barring along their flank and red
colouration in the fins. Females
tend to have no colouration in
the fins and the blue barring is
absent along the flanks. They also
grow slightly larger and are more
rounded in appearance, especially
when gravid.
Breeding the Emerald dwarf
rasbora is relatively easy to
achieve and is within the capability
of even the amateur aquarist.
Like all species within the family
Cyprinidae, they are egg scatters
Below: A pair of Emerald dwarf
Rasboras spawning amongst dense
vegetaion

Nelize Van Driel

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 9

 Nelize Van Driel
Above: The Celestial pearl danio, Danio margaritatus which is known to hybridize with D.erythromicron
who exhibit no parental care.
If they are fed well, are in condition and their
basic requirements are met, they will spawn and
in an aquarium with very dense planting, fry will
be observed amongst the plants.
If your goal is to save the eggs and the fry for
growout, then a different approach is needed
where a focus is made on setting up an aquarium
purely to spawn them. The group can be
conditioned together with a smaller tank set up
with water matching that of the breeding groups
aquarium. This smaller tank can have simple
filtration such as a sponge filter and spawning
mops set up for egg laying.
Once the adults are well conditioned, a small
group can be added to the breeding aquarium.
It is worth mentioning that the more individuals
there are, the higher the risk of predation will be
on the eggs.
It is best to remove the group after an evening
or two as the females do run the risk of burn out
and cannot constantly drop eggs.
It is better to rotate pairs or groups each day if
spawning larger numbers is your goal.
The number of eggs laid per day tends to be
rather small with 20 to 30 being a decent result.
10 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za
Temperature does seem to have an impact
on spawning with temperatures above 25ºC
resulting on very small clutches to zero spawning
activity.
In nature they are known to breed year round so
a constant rotational breeding system throughout
the year is quite achievable.
My personal method is to place a small container
with java moss within it which is left overnight
and checked daily for eggs over the course of
a few days with the adults then being rotated
out. The container is removed from the breeding
aquarium each night whilst still holding water and
checked for eggs. The eggs which are found are
then placed within a small tank for hatching and
raising.
As with all species of fish, hatch rate is
dependant of temperature, with D.erythromicron
generally taken two to three days and then
another four to five days to reach the free
swimming stage.
The fry are very small in size for freshwater
species and require minute food items initially
such as paramecium before moving onto
bigger items like artemia nauplii which can be
introduced a few days after feeding begins.
 “Even though
this little gem of
a species does
not grow larger
than around 2cm,
a standard 2ft
tank measuring
60cm by 30cm is
recommended due
to the behaviour of
adult males which
may be seen as
combative.”

Above: A couple of weeks old D.erythromicron fry

Below: A juvenile D.erythromicron starting to show some of the adult colouration

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 11

 Planted Tank

A Simple
Combination of
Unzan Stones and
Wabi-Kusa! By: Aqua Design Amano

“Plants and rocks are diametric as in soft and hard impressions,

a living thing and a non-living thing, or a changing thing and an
unchanging thing. However, they coexist and are quite compatible
with each other in nature.”
nzan Stones, which are used in a variety Stone goes together very well with the green color

U of layouts in Nature Aquarium Gallery,

are produced by taking advantage of the
characteristic shapes of natural lava stones. Many
depressions are produced on the stones to make
it easy to combine Wabi-Kusa with the stones.
The characteristic rough texture of an Unzan
of aquatic plants.
The combination arouses the creativity of many
aquarists. This layout, which takes advantage of
the features of Unzan Stones, is composed with
a simple plant arrangement of Australian Dwarf
Hydrocotyle and Hair Grass.

12 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

Aquarium: Cube Garden W180 x D60 x H60 (cm) Additives: Brighty K; Green Brighty Iron
Water change: 1/3 once a week
Lighting: Metal halide lighting unit (150W) x 3
units, turned on for 10 hours per day Water quality:Temperature: 25ºC;
pH: 6.8; TH: 20 mg/l
Filter: Super Jet Filter ES-2400 (Bio Rio L, NA
Carbon) Aquatic Plants
Hydrocotyle sp.
Substrate: Aqua Soil – Amazonia, Power Sand Eleocharis acicularis
Advance L, Bacter 100, Clear Super, Tourmaline Fontinalis antipyretica
BC
Fish
CO2: Pollen Glass Beetle Series 50, 6 bubbles Inpaichthys kerri
per second via CO2 Beetle Counter (using Tower) Crossocheilus oblongus
Otocinclus sp.
Aeration: 14 hours after the light is turned off Caridina multidentata
using Lily Pipe P-6

The natural coloration and texture of Unzan their unique earth tone starts to come through after
Stones goes together well with the green color of being submerged in water for a while. Because
aquatic plants of the characteristic forms and the surface
Although Unzan Stone is dark-colored initially, indentation of the lava stone, shadows cast by

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 13

light accentuates the texture of the Unzan Stones.
Its natural coloration and texture go together well
with the green color of aquatic plants and render a
profound natural feel to the layout. The blue color
The Combination of plants and rock surfaces
in nature
Plants and rocks are diametric as in soft and hard
impressions, a living thing and a non-living thing,
or a changing thing and an unchanging thing.
However, they coexist and are quite compatible
with each other in nature. The scenery of plants
hanging on a rock surface and glistening with
dripping water is commonplace in nature. Such
scenery is awash with moist, natural atmosphere.
An elegant, natural impression can be created by
adopting such a combination of plants and rock
surfaces into a layout.
A New layout material gives rise to a new
expression
Nature Aquarium has introduced various layout
styles to aquatic plant layout enthusiasts
throughout the world thus far. It is not an easy
14 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za
of Inpaichthys kerri, which sparkles depending on
the angle of view, also goes together well with the
combination of Unzan Stones and green aquatic
plants.
job to come up with a new layout style. However,
an encounter with a new material often gives me
inspiration. Discovering Unzan Stone is a good
example of this.
The new layout style that was inspired by Unzan
Stone lead to the method of placing a Wabi-
Kusa into the depressions of Unzan Stone and
the technique of chopping Willow Moss with a
chef’s knife and smearing the chopped moss on
the surface of Unzan stone. Since Wabi-Kusa is
well rooted in a plant-based medium, it will grow
well when placed in a depression of Unzan Stone
with a small amount of Aqua Soil Amazonia added
to the depression. Australian Dwarf Hydrocotyle
that spreads like an ivy and Hygrophila pinnatifida
that spreads by attaching itself to stones are
quite suitable for this use. There is nothing more
inspiring to me than finding a new layout material.
Composition framework
The number of stones, the position of the Oyaishi,
and the balance of the sizes of the stones are all
based faithfully on the Iwagumi basics and appear
very beautiful.
Adjustment to the soil mounding
Once the five Unzan Stones were arranged, soil
was mounded around them. The substrate was
sloped and its thickness was adjusted by pouring
additional soil using a small container.

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 15

 Hair Grass planting
The substrate was
planted solely with Hair
Grass. It was planted at
the density shown in the
picture. Adding water
to the aquarium until
the substrate is slightly
submerged makes it easy
to plant the aquatic plants.

Arrangement of the
stones and Wabi-Kusa
The photograph shows
the primary focus of the
layout: the combination
of Wabi-Kusa and the
stones. The appearance
of Australian Dwarf
Hydrocotyle spreading
across the Unzan Stones
creates the focal point of
the layout.

16 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

The Way to attach Willow Moss
The technique to grow Willow Moss on the stones by smearing finely chopped Willow Moss is a bold tactic that
would work only on Unzan Stones. It is a new layout method that takes advantage of the characteristics of the
materials.

The appearance of the aquarium shortly after planting. The simple arrangement of Hair Grass, Australian Dwarf
Hydrocotyle, and Willow Moss brings out the beauty of the well-balanced arrangement of Unzan Stones.

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 17

 The World expands from Passion
The International Aquatic Plants Layout Contest (IAPLC) is proud of its 20 years of history
as an international competition platform,
where various "aquatic plant layouts" enhance each other regardless of layout style.
The aquascapes created by each participant have
now grown into something that is enjoyed not only by the individual participants,
but also by friends and people fascinated by aquascaping all over the world.

The IAPLC will continue to support the passion of participating creators in their aquascapes,
and shall continue to be a global competition for people who earnestly create aquatic plant layouts.

APPLICATION PERIOD

2021.04.01 - 2021.05.31
MON
THU

GRAND PRIZE JP ¥1,000,000 - Free application fee

www.iaplc.com
Cosponsored by AQUA JOURNAL(Japan) / AQUA LIFE(Japan・South Korea) / AQUAmag(France) / AquaNet(Chinese Taipei)
aquaristik(Germany) / Practical Fishkeeping(Great Britain) / The Aquatic Gardener(U.S.A.) / TROPICAL FISH HOBBYIST(U.S.A.) / The Fishkeeper(South Africa)

18 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 19
 Marine

Toby or
not Toby!
That is the Question?
By: Tim Smith

20 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

Pufferfish have always been iconic amongst marine fish species.
The mere mention of one and all tend to know exactly what it is,
but do the majority of marine fish enthusiasts know of a family
that stay within a manageable size range. Tim Smith brings us
the family Canthigaster, also known at the Tobies.

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 21

 ufferfishes are often viewed

P as the personable heart and

soul of all corners of the
fishkeeping world. Indeed, their
inquisitive nature, focused and
swivelling eyes, and remarkable
intelligence easily sway even the
most hardened fishkeepers. Tobies
or sharpnose puffers - those in
the genus Canthigaster - can
prove hard to turn down because
of these very same charming
characteristics. But are these wet
pets for everyone? In this article
we aim to explore just who the
tobies are, the specificities of their
care, and some of the species
you’re likely to stumble upon at
your local store. Above and Below: The Blue spotted sharpnose puffer
(Canthigaster papua)
Specialized Puffers
The genus Canthigaster is truly
unique among the pufferfishes,
family Tetraodontidae. Where
most genera from this family are
typified by rather oval bodies, with
a short snout capped with a beak,
Canthigaster instead have laterally
compressed bodies and pointed
snouts. There’s a good reason
for this body shape, too. It allows
these fishes to utilize particular
niches within the reef, such as
picking between rocks and corals
for smaller invertebrates and algal
growth. Such a body shape also
allows these puffers to move with
ease within the complex structures
of the reef. under particularly stressful In the more limited space of an
conditions, and may behave aquarium, it is best to err on the
Despite these specializations, reclusive after having to resort to side of caution and keep a single
sharpnose puffers can still puff up defensive measures. Canthigaster per tank. While
as their relatives can. Care must mixing Canthigaster species
be taken when handling these While we’re here, it is worthwhile in an aquarium is a possibility,
fishes during moving events. They to note that you might see especially in larger aquariums, this
may attempt to inflate themselves your puffer inflating on the odd too would need to be approached
above the water line, taking in occasion, even if for only a few with caution. It goes without saying
a whole bunch of air instead of seconds. This behaviour isn’t that similar-looking species should
water. Puffers can sometimes usually indicative of stress, not be housed together given the
struggle to release this air, and but rather that the animal is territorial nature of these animals.
in many instances require gentle “stretching”, and will resume its
assistance in expelling the gas. day as per normal after such an Given a natural diet of
event. invertebrates, it is best to avoid
As with any other pufferfishes, keeping most invertebrates away
please do not attempt to make Compatibility from your sharpnose puffers. This,
your puffer blow itself up. These In the wild, most Canthigaster unfortunately, can also include a
fishes only resort to this behaviour will be found alone or paired up. variety of sessile invertebrates

22 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

inclusive of corals and sponges. These “Sharpnose puffers have a
tendencies can be offset somewhat by regular
feeding, but by no means is this a guarantee huge distribution across the
of invertebrate safety. For the most part, these
puffers are best kept in an invertebrate-free tank. globe, being found in almost
all major oceans, and while
Most fish do well enough alongside sharpnose
puffers - the puffers themselves aren’t especially their greatest diversity is in
likely to bother anyone else, and the toxicity
of puffer flesh appears to be well-known
the tropical and subtropical
by predators owing to the puffers’ warning regions, many species are
colour displays. There are, however, reports
of sharpnose puffers “picking” at other fishes, also found well into more
particularly those with longer fins or more
sedentary species. Whether this is a symptom
temperate waters.”
of boredom, hunger, or both is difficult to say,
but in any case such mixes should be monitored
closely. trouble.
Either incidentally or purposefully, these puffers
Feeding seem to invariably consume some amount
Adept at picking at - or picking apart - of macroalgae, depending on species. Most
invertebrate prey, sharpnose puffers relish all herbivore preparations will fit the bill here, with
sorts of prey items, so you shouldn’t be too my preference being ocean-derived products like
hard pressed to provide a variety of food items. nori sheets. In any case, try out a few options
Shrimp, mysids, mussels, and other invertebrate- - you might find your other tank inhabitants will
based items should be accepted with little nibble on the green treats too.

Below: The Black saddle toby (Canthigaster valentini), the most common species of
Canthigaster that you will most likely come across at one of your local stores.

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 23

 Above: The Honeycomb Toby (Canthigaster janthinoptera)
Owing to their active and browsing habits, it
may be best to provide smaller amounts of food
throughout the day instead of a single, large
meal. The “green” portion of the diet, left to be
picked on throughout the day, can help in this
respect.
Where they’re from
Sharpnose puffers have a huge distribution
across the globe, being found in almost all
major oceans, and while their greatest diversity
is in the tropical and subtropical regions,
many species are also found well into more
temperate waters. Some individual species
have enormous ranges and as such might be
imported for aquaria from one of many localities.
Some of the most common species hail from
the Indian Ocean and the Indo-Pacific, but
some interesting species, such as Canthigaster
rostrata, appear among Caribbean shipments.
Nearly all species are associated with
structures of sorts - reef walls, complex coral
hideaways, and rocky rubble environments.
24 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za
These species appreciate being able to retreat
to safety and usually do not wander far from
these environments. In the aquarium, this is
easily mimicked with any sort of hard-scaped
arrangements, especially the sorts that these
fishes can handily move between.
Common Species
Although Canthigaster is a relatively diverse
genus with over 35 species, about 15 species
show up in the aquarium trade, and only a fraction
of those with any frequency. With any luck, you’ll
find some of the more uncommon species, but
for the purposes of this article I’ll be taking a look
at the three most common species. Care is fairly
similar across the genus, so extrapolating what
you learn here is a good way to start off if you
encounter any other species.
Canthigaster valentini - known by many names
from Valentini’s puffer to the black saddle toby -
is one of the most common and budget-friendly
species around. This is likely owed to its vast
distribution, where specimens may be collected
 “Although
Canthigaster is a
relatively diverse
genus with over
35 species, about
15 species show
up in the aquarium
trade,”
anywhere from the eastern Indian
Ocean across through the Indo-
Pacific and even off the Hawaiian
islands. Within this range, this
species is remarkably common Above: The Spotted Toby (Canthigaster solandri)
among the nearshore reefs and as Below: Bennett’s Toby (Canthigaster bennetti)
such often makes appearances on
stock lists from around the globe.
This species rarely exceeds 10cm
in length, and much like other
Canthigaster can be housed in
more moderately-sized aquariums
than most other marine puffer
species.
There are a number of very
similar-looking Canthigaster
which might be mistaken for this
species, as well as a few non-
puffers: Canthigaster coronata, C.
axiologus, and C. cyanospilota can
all be mistaken for C. valentini at
a brief glance, but these appear in
the trade with far less frequency
than C. valentini.
However one of the non-puffer
mimics, the false saddle puffer the coastal Indian Ocean, Indo- makes an appearance now-and-
(actually a filefish!), Paraluteres Pacific and Australia. Colour again and is a welcome addition
prionurus, pops up with some forms between localities may to fish-only tanks. Also reaching
regularity and in many instances differ from one another, which approximately 10cm in length,
is peddled as a puffer species. have previously been assigned to these animals regularly associate
This mimicry by other fish species different species. with non-reef environments, such
takes advantage of the fact that Care is similar to other as macroalgal beds and seagrass
predators readily recognize the Canthigaster species, preferring meadows. Here they form familiar
toxic marking of the Valentini solitude or mated pairing, but socially-sparse groups and
puffer. rarely enjoying the company consume a variety of invertebrates
of small groups. The diet of and algal growths, the latter of
The spotted sharpnose, this species is remarkably which appear to have a little more
Canthigaster solandri, also diverse, which leaves very importance in their diets than other
goes by the names jewel puffer, few invertebrates safe in their Canthigaster species. While these
false-eye, and netted toby. It is presence. fishes will happily pick on growths
a beautiful puffer that also has in your aquarium, be sure to
a wide distribution: from south- Finally, Bennett’s sharpnose provide additional greens to fill the
eastern South Africa throughout puffer, Canthigaster bennetti, gap in their diets.

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 25

 Health

Cryptocaryon irritans
or White Spot Disease!
By: DR Gerald Bassleer Fish Pathologist
(www.bassleer.com)

Cryptocaryon irritans or Marine white spot is a parasite that

quite often is found to have made it’s way into a marine
system and onto it’s occupants, primarily through a situation
that causes stress upon the occupants. Dr Gerald Bassleer
discusses this common marine parasite in more detail!

26 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za


C
ryptocaryon irritans or white
spot disease is probably
the most frequently
occurring disease in tropical
marine fish (Ref. 5 +7).
These parasites are singled celled
or unicellular (protozoa) organisms
with tiny, little hairs also called
ciliates
Fortunately, this disease can be
recognized by the typical white
spots on the skin, fins and gills.
At first, only a few white spots
are scattered over the body while
many tend to hide within the gills.
These later divide and attack the
entire fish.
This disease usually develops
after drastic changes in the water
environment, such as cooling
caused by a defective heater or
loss of electricity supply. Infection
may also be attributed to rapid
cooling or temperature fluctuations
in rooms where aquaria are
located (typical for spring or
autumn) or high concentrations
of ammonia, nitrite or nitrate, very
low pH, or poor feeding practices.
Below: Dr. Bassleer Anti-ICH method
In other words, many factors
can contribute to the reduced
resistance of the fish which
makes them more susceptible to
parasites such as Cryptocaryon
irritans which can be present in
your aquarium water (they can
remain dormant for extensive
periods of time until a trigger sets
them off) (ref 2) or introduced with
new fish or invertebrates.
Besides typical white spots, fish
sometimes exhibit increased
mucus production, cloudiness of
the eyes, frayed fins, secondary
bacterial infections with skin and
fin rot, and red or pale patches. As
the parasites usually infect the gills
first, fish also will begin to have
breathing problems. If the disease
is discovered too late, the parasite
can cause serious damage to
the skin & gills which gives an
opportunity for bacterial infections
to take hold (Photo 6)
Fish try to relieve irritation by
rubbing themselves against
objects or the bottom of the
aquarium. They may also tend to
www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 27
stay at the water’s surface or close
to filter inflow.
Microscopic examination:
At 100x microscopic magnification,
large, dark ball- or cone-shaped
parasites (350-450 µm in
diameter) can easily be identified
on skin and fin smears (Photo 4+
5 ).
It is important to understand
the life cycle of the parasite
which usually takes anywhere
from 7 to 14 days depending on
a temperature between 24 to
27°C. The white spots caused
by adult Cryptocaryon irritans
are known as trophonts. In the
mature stage, these fall from the
fish and encapsulate themselves.
These encapsulated spots or
tomonts divide into approximately
200 daughter cells, which in
turn develop into small, ciliated
organisms (size 30 to 50 µ), called
tomites, that swarm (ONLY when
light is off at night), looking for new
hosts. They bore into the mucosa
of the skin, fins and gills of a host
fish and mature into typical adult
white spots. If they do not find
hosts within 24 hours, they will die.
Primarily, treatment is aimed at
killing tomites with the
application of a medication or UV-
sterilization.

Treatment:
The sooner you detect this
parasitic infection, the better your
results will be with your treatment!
FIRST you should determine
whether the water quality is
sufficiently good. Otherwise,
treatment will only worsen the
situation. The combination of
formaldehyde - malachite green or
formaldehyde - copper sulfate has
proven to be more effective than Photo 2: White spots, Cryptocaryon irritans, on skin and fins of Acanthurus
copper sulfate alone. Quinine has leucosternon.
also been used with success as
a treatment in the water or added
into the food. Watch out though
as it can harm your invertebrates!
Check your local shops to see if
they stock good medications like
Protomor or Faunamor (Aquarium
Münster)! For Reef Aquaria: see
further!
Sufficient dosage and 8-10-day
treatment periods are important
to ensure that all tomites are
killed. Daily freshwater baths
are recommended as additional
treatment for infected fish.
Methylene blue can also be added
to this freshwater bath. The sooner
treatment is begun, the better the
results will be.
You can also use ‘Hyposalinity’
= lowering salinity in fish only Photo 3: Larger number of white spots, Cryptocaryon irritans, clearly recognized
aquaria until 1.013-1.010 which on the red skin of Tomato Clown (Amphiprion frenatus). But there are certainly
will result in killing marine also parasites on the white band and the gills!
ICH within a 1-2 days due to
the parasite not being able to
sustain the osmotic pressure.
A combination of medication & “It is important to understand the
Hyposalinity is possible. life cycle of the parasite which
If the disease is discovered
too late, the parasite can cause usually takes anywhere from
serious damage to skin & gills
which gives an opportunity 7 to 14 days depending on a
for bacterial infections to take temperature between 24 to 27°C.”
hold (Photo 6) !Antibacterial
agents must be administered

28 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

 Photo 4: Cryptocaryon irritans infection on a Moorish
Idol (Zanclus cornutus), with clearly recognizable white spots
on the black bands, which are practically invisible on
the pale yellow bands.

simultaneously to combat the possibility of
secondary bacterial infections. Nifurpirinol
or Furaltadone, are effective drugs. Good
results have also been achieved with quinine
hydrochloride when entire aquaria, including
invertebrates, are treated. But, always be
cautious!
Use of our functional foods, Dr. Bassleer Biofish
Food matrine as a preventive & curative effect
while the mucus becomes a kind of repellent
will aid the fish and can help them to fight off the
Marine ICH. (Ref. 4)
Note: after healing of an ICH-infection fish
develop a resistance (immunity).
For Reef Aquaria we recommend to apply
the Dr. Bassleer Anti-ICH Method. First of all
it should be noted that you will have greater
success, when you act in the first days of
infection of Cryptocaryon. To physically remove
the parasites, you can leave the lights on and
siphon off the bottom 2x/day and install a micro-
filter (< 300µ pores, diatom filter) (Ref. 3).
Raise the temperature a few degrees to speed
up the cycle of the parasite and use a reef-
safe medication (like Protomor from Aquarium
Münster). At the same time give a functional food
with nutricaments like Dr. Bassleer Biofish Food
matrine to help the fish to fight off the parasites
(& safe for invertebrates). Watch out! Certain
invertebrates do not like permanent light nor
higher temperature (try 24-48hrs).
Some Recommendations: Defense of the fish
& Prevention of infection:
As a fish hobbyist you should try to keep your
fish in the best condition that you possibly can! If
you do so, they will have a good ‘defense’ system
and the fish will be in a better condition to fight
off any kind of parasitic infection (ref. 1+6). Good
water quality, avoiding stress, and feeding quality
food with probiotics & prebiotics will all help
the fish to keep a good active immune system.

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 29

 Photo 4: Skin scraping with dark, cone-shaped Cryptocaryon parasites
at 100x magnification.

Usually marine fish get Marine-

ICH due to a few ‘poor factors’,
including poor feeding practices:
just feeding Brine shrimp or frozen
food is not enough! Also the lack
of a proper quarantine regime,
before they are introduced into
your reef aquarium, is a risk of
introducing this parasitic infection.
Therefore, we recommend a good
quarantine practice after your
purchase. (We might go in more
detail about QUARANTINE in a
next article)
Photo 5: Pear-shaped Cryptocaryon irritans in motion
(200x magnification).
References: (with most new,
recent publications)

(1)+ Maladies des poissons marins

en aquarium.(Nouvelle Edition) By
Gerald Bassleer, 2019 (Bassleer
Biofish Belgium)
(Eng= Diseases in marine
aquarium fish; new edition)

(2)+ Dormancy induced by a

hypoxic environment in tomonts of
Cryptocaryon irritans, a parasitic
ciliate of marine teleost by Yuho
Watanabe Kah Hui, How Kosuke,
Zenke, NaokiItoh, Tomoyoshi,
Yoshinaga (Aquaculture 2018,
Volume 485, p. 131-139)
Photo 6: Photo 6 Cryptocaryon causing damage to the gills
(3)+ Dynamics and distribution

30 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

properties of theronts of the parasitic ciliate
Cryptocaryon irritans by How, Kah Hui, Zenke,
Kosuke, Yoshinaga Tomoyoshi (Aquaculture
2015, Volume 438, p.170-175)
(4)+ Antiparasitic effects of Sophora flavescens
root extracts on the ciliate, Cryptocaryon irritans.
By Goto&Hirazawa&Takaishi&Kashiwada
(Aquaculture 2015, Volume 435, p. 173-177)
(5)+ The prevelance of Cryptocaryon irritans in
wild marine ornamental fish from Vietnam. By
Van & Nhinh (Earth and Environmental science
2018, Vol. 137)
(6) + Cryptocaryon irritans Infections (Marine
White Spot Disease) in Fish. By Yanong (IFAS
extension, revised 2017, FA164)
(7)+ Studies on the prevailing parasitic diseases
in some Red Sea coral reef fishes in aquarium.
By Ahmed Omar (Faculty of Veterinary Medicine
Egypt, Master Thesis 2017)
All pictures supplied by the Author

Gerald Bassleer’s
Guides to
Fish Diseases
Some of the best books out there for hobbyists
and professionals

• Detailed with 232 pages

• 1000 photographs
• Descriptions and
treatments on numerous
fish diseases
• Largest and most detailed Also Available
book of its type
• Comes with dvdrom with The Practical
Guide to Fish
65 videos
Diseases and
• One of the best books Diseases in
available on fish disease Marine Aquarium
Fish
For more information or to purchase please visit:
www.bassleer.com
www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 31
 Q&A

Your Questions
Answered!
Send your questions through to editor@thefishkeeper.
Marine co.za and we may pick yours to feature.

Q Is it necessary for your common clownfish (Amphiprion

ocellaris) to have their own anemone in order to successfully
breed.

Clowns no matter the species are always found associated

A with anemones in the wild. They will tend to lay their eggs
on a rock or other hard surface within a very close distance to
the anemone or in some cases right next to the foot. Whilst it is
good practice to keep clowns with an anemone within the display
aquarium, it is not entirely necessary within a breeding set up if
breeding is your goal. The majority of captive bred clowns that
you may find within your local store are bred without the use of
an anemone and have therefore never come into contact with
one. This does not mean that they will not bond with one if it is
supplied. Many breeders have successfully bred many varieties
of clowns using slanted tiles or clay pots. But at the end of the
day it all comes down to your own preference.

Freshwater

Q Recently I spotted a very cute pretty

fish within my local pet shop. It was
called a Red tail catfish (Phractocephalus
hemioliopterus) and I am absolute in love with
it! it was about 5cm in length. Would this make
a good scavenger for my 3ft tank.

The best advice we can give you is to

A leave it within the stores tank. There is no
doubt to its attractiveness, but this species is
currently a baby which can potentially grow into
a monster measuring up to 1.5 metres long.
As it grows it will start to consume all other
occupants within the aquarium as they are predators with an exceptionally large mouth. You will continously
have to find a larger tank for it which unfortunately is out of the scope of many home aquarists.
What tends to happen is when these larger species grow bigger than what a keeper is able to handle, they often
end up releasing them into local river systems where they can have disastrous consequences.
As with all acquisitions it is always best to do your homework first and ascertain whether such a species is within
your keeping ability.

32 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

 Contact: 073 477 3920
Email:ecaquatics1@gmail.com/eastcoastaquatics@mymtnmail.co.za
Facebook: www.facebook.com/eastcoastaquatics1

We specialize in:
* Show quality Japanese & local Koi
* Koi food and accessories
* Custom designed ponds & filter equipment
* Goldfish tropicals & small pet accessories
* Open 7 days a week

Contact Warren or Angela on:

Tel: 031 209 8781
Cell: 074 158 0279
Email: info@koiatjungle.co.za
829 King Cetshwayo Highway
(Jan Smuts) Sherwood Durban.

www.koiatjungle.co.za
www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 33
 Marine

C h o o s i n g
v e r t e b r a t e s a n d
I n
i r C o m p a t i b i l i t y
the
By: Matt Needham

With a wealth of invertebrates in an array of beautiful

colours available to the hobby it can prove quite a
challenge in selecting the right one for your aquarium. Here
we discuss some of the better options available to us and
how they may coexist peacefully.
wealth of species that are available to the hobbyist

O
nce we understand all the mechanisms
that are required in order to keep a
successful aquarium, the next problem
that is generally faced is with regards to
compatibility amongst species. Diving into a setup
which incorporates invertebrates can be quite
daunting to the newer marine aquarist but with the
it proves quite easy to acquire the what you find
attractive but the challenge comes in creating
an aquarium which allows all creatures to live in
harmony with one another and may require some
prior knowledge on species or a fair amount of
homework.

34 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za


Above: Sinularia sp
Left: Banded Coral Shrimp (Stenopus hispidus)
Soft Corals
Most of these corals are fairly
resistant to stress factors within
the aquarium and tend to grow
rather quickly, which make them
ideal candidates for first additions.
Some of the most common species
that you may come across and the
easiest to maintain are those of
the families Sarcophyton, Anthelia,
Cladiella, Pachyclavularia and
Sinularia.
It is essential to scan any individual
you may be interested in purchasing,
looking for any black, brown or
white areas which may appear on
the surface on the tissues as well
as whether the corals polyps are
open at all scanning for food. If any
of these signs are seen then that
coral should be passed up as it
may unfortunately be compromised
and end up as a fatality within your
aquarium. It is important to also
look out for any possible parasites
on any of the colonies. Certain
flatworm and crustacean species
are commonly seen on coral
colonies and depending on the
species may decimate a colony.

Hard corals
Hard corals are made up of a
characteristic calcium carbonate
skeleton and are a lot more sensitive
to water parameters in comparison
to soft corals. Some can however
be added in the early stages of a
Above: Sarcophyton sp tank set up. Scolymia, Tracyphyllia,
Below: Galaxea fascicularis Plerogyra and Galaxea are all
genera which are hardy enough to
be set up within a newer aquarium.
Choose specimens carefully and
look out for any patches of the
swollen tissues. The skeleton
should never be visible as this
indicates possible damage to
the coral or poor health. Rather
the tissue of the coral as a whole
should be swollen showing good
health and a feeding response. As
with soft corals, hards should never
show areas of putrefaction as this
indicates a colony on its way out.
The colours should be bright and
rich as a dull hard coral usually
indicates that the symbiotic algae,

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 35

which live inside the tissue and
bring in the vast majority of food
through photosynthesis may be
dead or dying. The size of a colony
is also something to consider as
some species are well known to
sting and can fatally damage any
adjacent colonies. Many species
are known to develop long tentacles
such as Galaxea which can be very
aggressive to other colonies that
are within stinging range.

Anemones, Echinoderms and

various shellfish
With regards to the various species
of mobile invertebrates that may
Above: Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius)
be available, selection criteria
Below: Pink Sea Urchin
can differ amongst species. Sea
urchins should generally be chosen
with straight spines and should be
seen to be moving. Shrimp species
should always appear lively with
full abdomens. Be careful if their
colours appear to be dull as this can
ring warning bells on an animal’s
well-being.
Anemones should appear plump.
Avoid a limp anemone that may not
be adhering to a surface and rolling
around the aquarium or where you
can see a tear on the foot. Any
rupture of the foot spells instant
death for these animals.
It is always wise to research any
behavioral characteristics or
special features of a species before
purchasing it as this will give you
an idea what to look out for in order
to make the right decision. Below: The bane of all aquarists, Aiptasia sp
Sea anemones have practically the
same characteristics of corals yet
they are able to move independently.
It therefore is strongly advised to
keep this in consideration when
deciding on an aquarium for them.
Once placed with the aquarium,
they will move around until they
find the spot in which they want to
“root” themselves. Current is very
important to them.

Shellfish are also a common

inhabitant of reef aquariums, with
various species from the Lysmata
and Periclimenes genus living
quite comfortably within the reef

36 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

community, without showing much aggression or any
at all to their neighbours. Shrimp from the Stenopus
genus can only live-in pairs, with two individuals of
the same sex fighting until one succumbs.
Not all shellfish are suitable for the reef community
with the shrimp from Rhyncocynetes often disturbing
the corals with their constant movement.
Crabs may also need to be watched, with various
species proving to cause substantial damage to
corals and the likes.
The Echinoderms (sea urchins, starfish and Sea
cucumbers) need careful research as certain
starfish are known to feed on corals whilst others
are invaluable additions in helping with cleaning.
Most sea urchins will move around the aquarium
shifting quite a lot of loose rockwork and poorly
placed corals as they go. This can be quite
alarming as they can be quite destructive if
allowed. Sea cucumbers contain virulent poisons
which they may release when disturbed or in the
case of death which can cause serious issues if
not attended to with a water change and early
removal.
Some invertebrates such as those of the Aiptasia
and Anemonia are pests and avid colonizers
and will need to be removed regularly or they
may cause serious issues to other desired
invertebrates. Copperband Butterflyfish (Chelmon
rostratus) prove a welcome addition at keeping
these pest anemones at bay and should be a
standard addition within all reef aquaria.

Above: Starfish and sea cucumber

Below: An amazing set up incorporating Anemones

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 37

 Goldfish for your
GOLDFISH

outdoor pond!
By: Angela Beckx
(Koi@jungle)

Left: Black Moor

e all have unique taste when it comes to *Landscaping design and style.

W choosing a design for our garden ponds.

*Formal or non-formal.
With our unique taste in designs, we also have
unique tastes in what types of fish we wish to keep
in our ponds. Koi are popular due to their size and
*Shape and Size of the pond. bright colours but there are other fish available for
your garden ponds. You must always make sure
*Many water plants or no plants. the fish you choose are able to live outside as
many fish need heaters as they require warmer

38 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

water. One of my favorite fish to
keep outside other than Koi are
Goldfish.

Goldfish are extremely popular fish

that most of us have kept at some
stage in our life. They were bred
from Prussian Carp in China and
were one of the earliest fish to be
domesticated. The interesting thing
about Goldfish is that you get many
varieties. Some are for ponds,
some for tanks and some are very
fancy. In 1620 goldfish were highly
regarded in Southern Europe
because of their metallic scales and
symbolized good luck and fortune.
It was a tradition for married men to
give their wives a goldfish for their
1-year anniversary as a symbol for
the prosperous years to come. As
time went on goldfish became far Above: Bubble eye
more popular and lost their status
and that tradition fell away.

Goldfish are popular fish to add

to your garden ponds as they are
friendly, easy to keep, fast growing,
very colourful and breed better in
ponds than in tanks during spring.
When there is a temperature drop
and your fish are mature enough
to breed, you will see the male
goldfish chasing the females and
nudging her to encourage her to
release her eggs so that he can
fertilize them. There are 15 popular
varieties available in South Africa,
which you can look out for in most
Pet stores.

Common Goldfish
The traditional common goldfish is Above: Celestial eye
bright orange in colour with a small
tail.

Black Moor
Is black in colour and has telescoped
eyes. They are sensitive to white
spot so keep a close watch on
them when you first introduce them
to your pond.

Bubble eye
This goldfish has upward pointing
eyes and two large fluid-filled sacs.
They look like they have bubbles
on the side of their faces.

Celestial eye
This goldfish has a double tail
and upturned telescopic eyes with
pupils that gaze skywards. They
have a unique look to them.

Comet Above: Comet

These are slightly smaller and

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 39

slimmer than your common
goldfish. They have a long deeply
forked tail. They are active fish and
one of the most popular goldfish to
keep in ponds outside due to their
playful nature. They love to swim
around and can be hand feed.

Fantail
Fantails have short egg-shaped
bodies with a split caudal fin or tail,
which is typically longer than the
common goldfish.

Lionhead
These are goldfish that look like
they have a lion face. They have a
big hood and are very friendly.

Oranda
These have a raspberry looking
like hood or head growth that is Above: Fantail
attractive.

Pearlscales
These goldfish have spherical
bodies with fantail looking fins
and pearls that shine on the fishes
scales.

Pompom
Pompom can be noticed with the
bundles of loose fleshy outgrowths
between the nostrils on each side
of the head.

Ryukin
These have a short deep shaped
body with a characteristic shoulder
hump.

Shubunkin
These are also known as calicos
and have multiple colours. Red, Above: Lionhead
orange, brown, yellow and patches
of black. They are one of the
hardiest of all the goldfish and can
handle temperature fluctuations.

Telescope eye
These are also called globe eye or
dragon eye as they have protruding
eyes.

Ranchu
The Japanese call this goldfish the
king and it has a hooded head.

Panda Moor
This goldfish is black and white in
colour with protruding eyes and
looks like a panda bear.

With all the varieties of goldfish

to choose from you will find the
perfect fish for your garden ponds. Above: Oranda

40 the fishkeeper March/April 2021 www.thefishkeeper.co.za

 Above: Pearlscale Above: Pompom

Above: Ryukin Above: Shubunkin

Above: Telescope eye Above: Ranchu

www.thefishkeeper.co.za March/April 2021 the fishkeeper 41

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