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Research
Vivien Görnitz
201
ABSTRACT
Sea level rise, due to future global climate warming, could reach at
least 0.7 m by the year 2100, which represents an increase of around 7 times
the present rate. Potential impacts of this accelerated sea level rise
regional to global scales, and to screen out targets for more detailed
studies .
retreat and high wave/tide energies. The coastal hazards data base contains
rank from 1 to 5, based on assessment of the relative risk factor. These risk
factors are then combined into an overall coastal vulnerability index, CVI.
Preliminary results and analysis are presented here for the East Coast,
U.S.A., as a test case. The data base is being extended to the rest of North
Based on the criteria used, high risk areas along the East Coast include
parts of Cape Cod, Long Island and the New Jersey barrier beaches, the North
Carolina. Although the high risk status for most of these sites could have
been anticipated, the CVI approach allows further differentiation among these
INTRODUCTION
could reach 0.66m by the year 2100 (Oerlemans, 1989; Meier, 1990). Although
significantly reduced from the NRC (1987) figures, the latest estimate
flooding from storm waves and high surges could penetrate much further inland.
of saltwater resulting from the SLR, could contaminate drinking water supplies
and adversely affect agriculture. The effects of the global SLR on the
factors, on regional to global scales, and to classify and map the spatial
detailed study.
inundation and erosion hazards. These include: (1) relief (elevation), (2)
20.5
land movements (relative sea level changes), (5) horizontal shoreline changes
(erosion or accretion), (6) tidal ranges, and (7) wave heights. Although not
specifically dealt with here, data on storm frequency and intensity have been
Storm surges and sediment transport, although also important factors, have not
been included at the present time. However, as the data are incorporated into
future sea level rise, the impact of climate change on such variables as
winds, waves and storm surges should also be taken into consideration. For
vulnerability of coastal areas lies outside the scope of this paper. However,
data base, and its application to the East Coast, U.S.A., as a test case. We
Vulnerability Index. Procedures are still under development, and the outline
assessment.
2 04
Among the variables considered here, relief and vertical land movements
longitude land data points, aggregated into 1/4° coastal cells, represents a
global scale analysis. The ET0P05 Gridded World Elevations (5' lat- long
high risk to above normal tides from severe storm surges. The hazard
Vertical land movements are obtained from relative sea level trends ,
which around 300 have usable records. The eastern U.S. is covered by 33
stations (Lyles et al., 1987). The relative sea level (RSL) change at each
locality includes a eustatic component (1-2 mm/yr, Görnitz and Lebedeff, 1987;
The other variables of the data base are associated with erodibility
barrier coasts, mudflats, deltas, estuaries, etc. At lower risk are landforms
with harder substrates and higher relief (e.g. fiords, rocky coasts). Because
these factors are difficult to quantify, they are ranked into classes of
come from the CEIS data base (Dolan et al., 1983; 1990). Rates within ±1 m
lie within the measurement error and are considered relatively stable, and
thus at moderately low risk. Shores with rates of -1 m/yr or less (more
negative) are eroding, and at relatively higher risk (Table 1). Conversely,
shores with rates > +1 m/yr are accreting, and at correspondingly low risk.
Waves and tidal currents actively transform the shoreline. Wave heights
are proportional to the square root of wave energy, which is related to the
and Reed, 1989) . Maximum significant wave heights are available from the Wave
2 OU
Information Study (WIS), U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, for 166 nearshore
segments at roughly 10 mi (16 km) spacing along the East Coast (Jensen, 1983).
(The ranks assigned in Table 1 represent a full range of values, including the
West Coast) .
Although a large tidal range may dissipate wave energy, limiting beach or
cliff erosion to the brief period of high tide (Bird, 1985), it also
estuaries depends on the tidal range, as well as the asymmetry of the tidal
cycle and channel morphology (Pethick, 1984). Therefore, holding these other
factors constant, high tidal range is associated with stronger tidal currents,
with here, the tidal range is also important in determining the upper limit of
more vulnerable than those with lesser ranges (Table 1). Tide range data are
information, at different scales and units, each variable for each coastal
segment has been assigned a rank from 1 to 5, with 5 representing the most
vulnerable class (highest risk; Table 1). These individual risk classes can
computed as either the sum or product of the variables. The product has the
2 07
Several indices have been examined. The simplest form of the CVI is the
geometric mean, or the product of the risk classes, divided by the number of
variables present (CVIj) . A modified geometric mean (CVI2) has been obtained
by first averaging the geology and geomorphology risk classes, which are
highly correlated in this region, and also the tide ranges and wave heights,
both of which actively shape the coastline (Davis and Hayes, 1984). CVI3 is
obtained as the average of the squares of the risk classes (Kimball et al.,
1985). Squaring each value emphasizes extreme events, which usually present
the greatest hazards. Finally, in order to compress the wide maximum range
between 0.91 and 1.00, indicating a very high degree of correlation (Table 2).
This suggests that any of the indices can be used as an indicator of relative
coastal hazards. Experimentation with the various CVI schemes and weighting
208
0), let aA - 1, and n - 6 . The total range of CVI was divided into four equal
parts, and the upper quarter was taken as "very high risk coastline." Based
percentile (or 4% of the East Coast is greater than or equal to CVI4 33.0).
Examples of the calculation of CVI4 are now given for two contrasting
coastal sites.
(1) Eastport, Maine. The mean elevation for the 1/4° cell enclosing
class 1, with respect to relief. Thus a1 - 1 . Relative sea level rise is 2.7
igneous rocks, forming an embayed, rocky coast; thus a3 and a4 are 1 and 1,
respectively. The shoreline is stable (a5 - 3). Maximum wave heights are
around 4.4 m (a6 - 2), and mean tidal range is 5.6 m (a7 - 4). CVI4 -
(96/7)1/2 - 3.70.
(2) Ocean City, Maryland. Here, the mean elevation is only 2 m above
present sea level (aA - 5). Relative sea level rise is around 3.1 mm/yr, so
Delaware. However, most tide-gauge records in the Chesapeake Bay- Delaware Bay
area yield sea level trends between 3.0 - 4.0 mm/yr [Lyles et al., 1981]).
The shore is a sandy beach on a barrier island (a3 and a4 are 5 and 5,
209
CEIS gives an average erosion rate of - 8.8 m/yr (a5 - 5). Maximum wave
heights are 4.7 m (a6 - 2), and mean tidal ranges around 3.5 m (a7 - 3).
The ARC/INFO GIS (ESRI, Inc.) software at ORNL can relate and manipulate
data in various formats and spatial resolutions, such as (1) point data (e.g.
tide-gauge stations), (2) line or arc data (lithology, landforms, waves), (3)
1989) . Each variable forms a feature class (coverage) , which can be displayed
Some of the data sets differ in the continuity of coverage. For the
East Coast, where sea level variations are regionally coherent, and
values from adjacent tide-gauge stations. Data for tide ranges are closely
spaced and fall into well-defined clusters, to which ranks are assigned based
Maine, rocky coasts were assumed to be stable (Dr. S.M. Dickson, Maine Geol.
erosion trends were assessed from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers National
Shoreline Study (1971). No erosion data are available for the Everglades, or
210
for many estuaries and lagoons. Missing elevation data for low- lying Cape
Hatteras and Florida Keys were assumed to be close to zero. Wave data are
only available for the open coasts, but not for the major bays, estuaries or
RESULTS
The total East Coast shoreline from Maine to Key West, Florida is
dominant landform along the East Coast (41.9% by length), followed by barrier
coasts (18.2%), and lagoons (15.3%). Rocky, glaciated coasts (Maine) occupy
12.3% of the shore, while glacial deposits (mostly on Cape Cod and Long
Island) form 6.0% (Appendix 1). Around three-quarters of the East Coast is
100 m (central Maine) to near sea-level along barrier coasts. Around two-
1 m/yr) , with 25.2% eroding and 7.7% accreting (based upon the length of coast
The East Coast is subsiding. Rates of sea level rise exceeding 2 mm/yr
affect 89.0% of the region (Fig. 1). These rates are 1.5-2 times the global
eustatic range of 1-2 mm/yr. About half of the SLR along the East Coast can
211
Values of CVI<, for the East Coast range between 1.79 and 46.29. The
median value (by shorelength) is 10.12, while the upper and lower quartiles
are 15.12 and 6.87, respectively (Table 3). The East Coast can be divided for
convenience into three regions, that also differ in geologic and terrain
weakly embayed rocky, glaciated shores. While beaches constitute 20.9% of the
deposits, 13.9% are pocket beaches, and 46.4% are coastal plain and barrier
or less (Fig. 1). The average regional elevation is 13.2 m, ranging from a
high of 100 m in central Maine, to near sea level in parts of Cape Cod (Fig.
3), and rocky skerries in Maine. Only 6.8% of the coastline is eroding at
rates of - 1 m/yr or greater, 2.2% more than -2 m/yr (Fig. 1). Erosion rates
eastern Cape Cod reach -3.5 to -4.5 m/yr (Fig. 3). These highly eroding
outwash) . On the other hand, the spit at the northern end of Cape Cod is
2í2
Connecticut (1.0-1.9 m) , increasing again toward the western end of Long Island
Sound (2.0-4.0 m) . Maximum wave heights in New England are only moderately high
(Fig. 1), with regional maxima on Martha's Vineyard (5.1 m) and Nantucket (5.2
m) , off Cape Cod. The regional RSL, ranges from 1.8 mm/yr to 2.7 mm/yr.
Values of CV IA for New England range between 2.31 and 35.86. The median
value is 7.85, while the upper quartile is 10.75 (Table 3). Figure 4 shows the
distribution of CVI<, values > 33.0 for the Cape Cod region.
Cape Cod, is formed largely of glacial moraine and outwash deposits. Although
barrier islands and associated lagoons are well -developed along the south shore
of Long Island, the New Jersey coast and the eastern shore of the Delmarva
Bay and Chesapeake Bay, both of which are river valleys submerged by the post-
shorelength, with coastal plain beaches, barriers and lagoons comprising only
26.3%. Unconsolidated sediments form 99.1% of the shore. Beaches occupy 14.3%
(1243.1 km) of the total shorelength. Of the beaches, 65.0% are located on
barriers or coastal plains, 21% are along estuaries and 14.0% on glacial debris
(e.g. Long Island). Marshes constitute 26.3% of the mid- Atlantic coast, 41.8% of
which occur along estuaries, 41.8% are associated with lagoons and only 11.8%
the western shore of Chesapeake Bay, to near sea level, along much of the
mobile landforms throughout the region, nearly the entire coast is stable or
particularly near tidal inlets. Severe erosion (<-2 m/yr) occurs on the
barrier beaches of Jones Island, New York, central New Jersey and especially
the southern Delmarva Peninsula, where several islands are retreating at rates
exceeding -10 m/yr. On the other hand, some of the inlets and spits are
western tip of Jones Beach, New York, is accreting at 3.4 m/yr while the
Henlopen, Delaware (5 m/yr) and northern Brigantine Island, New Jersey (25.5
m/yr) .
Tidal ranges decrease southward from New York toward Chesapeake Bay, as
tributaries. Regional maximum wave heights on the open coast are moderate,
ranging between 3.8 and 5.2 m, the latter occurring on the south Delmarva
Peninsula.
The mid-Atlantic region is marked by above average RSL rise (>3 mm/yr) ,
which roughly coincides with a zone of maximum peripheral bulge collapse south
214
of the edge of the former Wisconsin ice sheet (Walcott, 1972). Sediment
anomalously high trends along the New Jersey coast (Davis, 1987). Although
glacioisostatic and eustatic factors account for much of the apparent RSL
1990).
In the mid-Atlantic region, CVI4 ranges between 1.79 and 46.29. Here,
the median CVI4 is 10.79 and the upper quartile is l4 . 57 (Table 3). Areas
shorelength, lagoons 22.3% and estuaries another 39.2%, with the remainder
mostly mangroves and reefs. Marshes occupy 45.2% of the coastline, of which
58.4% are located in estuaries and 25.0% along lagoonal coasts, the remainder
islands .
The southeast is the lowest region on the East Coast (av. elevation
2.13 m, ranging from 34 m west of St. Augustine, and 11m closer to the coast,
to near sea level on the Outer Banks, North Carolina and the Southern
215
barrier beaches along the South Carolina and Georgia coasts; also the exposed
Cape Hatteras (Fig. 7), North Carolina and Cape Canaveral, Florida (Fig. 9).
Erosion rates south of Cape Canaveral, Florida are fairly low, except for
Jupiter Island (-1.8 m) (Fig. 9). However, shoreline displacement trends are
roles of tidal and wave processes in the Georgia Embayment. The Georgia and
embayments flanked by short and thick barrier islands. The shoreline position
(2-4 m) conditions along the Georgia coast, and back to microtidal in Florida.
Seaward shoals, off tidal inlets . refract incoming waves, causing rapid erosion
on one section of beach, while nearby, wave energy is reduced, and sand
Maximum wave heights throughout the region range between 2.4 and 5.9m.
Regional highs occur north of Cape Hatteras (5.9m), and north of Cape
Canaveral (5.1-5.2 m) .
Along the southeast Atlantic coast, RSL trends for stations between Key
West, Florida and Wilmington, North Carolina range between 1.8-3.4 mm/yr. The
RSL trend for Wilmington (1.8 mm/yr; Lyles et al., 1987) is somewhat lower
than those of adjacent stations, which may reflect continuing uplift along the
Cape Fear arch (Braatz and Aubrey, 1987). The relatively high trends at
Savannah (3.0 mm/yr) and Charleston (3.4 mm/yr) may be largely caused by
2 i (>
possibility.
In the southeast Atlantic region, CVI4 ranges between 3.0 and 46.3. The
quartiles (by length) are: 6.76 (25%), 11.19 (50%) and 16.61 (75%) (Table 3).
The occurrence of CVI4 > 33.0 for southern Florida is shown in Fig. 10.
DISCUSSION
vulnerable to future SLR, except for parts of Cape Cod (Fig. 4). This is due
to the comparatively greater proportion of resistant rock types and landf orms ,
and more elevated terrain, even although, in general, wave heights and tidal
ranges are higher than further south, and the coast is also subsiding (Fig. 1,
shoreline, south of New York fall into the high to very high risk classes (4,
5) for most variables (Figs. 1, 5). The relief decreases going southward, as
Cape Hatteras region ranks among the most vulnerable i*because of above average
other hand, Florida south of Cape Canaveral ranks relatively low risk, in
wave energies decrease southward. Erosion rates are relatively low, except
2i7
for the stretch between the St. Lucie and Jupiter Inlets (av. -1.8 m/yr) .
factors into the CVI could lead to revision of the overall vulnerability
year, as compared to a 8-11% probability off Cape Hatteras. (These two areas
have the highest hurricane probabilities along the U.S. East Coast). If
"great" hurricanes are considered (winds > 125 mph) , the probability for
southern Florida is 5-7% as compared to 2-4% for Cape Hatteras (U.S. Dept.
Commerce, 1976).
On the other hand, destructive waves and storms along the U.S. East
mean of 20 per year, north of New Jersey, during the period 1885-1978 (Hayden,
1981). Although New England experiences the highest number of cyclones per
year, the damaging effects are largely offset by the relatively resistant
substrate. However, the mid- Atlantic region is more vulnerable (in terms of
erodibility) to the damaging effects of the still fairly high number of severe
storms .
shorelength mileage) . Florida has the highest shoreline density (by this
Georgia, 303 in South Carolina, 202 in North Carolina and 1,133 in Virginia;
218
risk factor, Florida may rate ahead of the other high risk areas south of New
Jersey.
development .
CONCLUSIONS
analyses, for a coastal hazards data base, covering the East Coast, U.S.A.
has been assigned a rank ranging from 1 to 5 , based on the relative risk
factor. These risk factors are then combined into an overall coastal
vulnerability index, CVI. Several versions of the CVI have been proposed.
Since most are based on the product of the variables, they are highly
correlated. For the purpose of illustration, the CVI used is the square root
highest CVI ratings include the Atlantic coast of the Delmarva Peninsula,
northern Cape Hatteras , parts of New Jersey, Georgia and South Carolina.
inundation due to low elevation, and to erosion due to high risk rock types
and landforms, nevertheless historic rates of erosion, wave heights and tide
ranges are considerably lower than in the above-mentioned areas. On the other
219
south Florida could attain a higher vulnerability rating than under the
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Energy Research, under contract DE - AC05 - 840R 21400 with Martin Marietta
Energy Systems, Inc. and Subcontract MRETTA 19x - 91348V with Columbia
for a major effort in GIS data entry, analysis and production of coastal risk
maps and to Mr. Robert M. Cushman, ORNL, for his helpful advice and
encouragement. Programming assistance was provided by Mr. Z.Y. Zhang and Mr.
Jack Jia. Thanks are also extended to Dr. D.T. Pugh, Director, Permanent
Service for Mean Sea Level, Bids ton Observatory, England for sending tide-
for providing a complete set of Tide Tables; and to Dr. J. Hubertz, U.S. Army
data. A tape of CEIS shoreline displacement data for the U.S. was obtained
digital relief data came from the National Geophysical Data Center, Boulder,
Colorado.
LITERATURE CITED
Anders, F.J. and Reed, D.W., 1989. Shoreline change along the South Carolina
22 0
Braatz , B.V. and Aubrey, D.C., 1987. Recent sea level change in eastern North
America. In: Nummedal, D. , Pilkey, D.H., and Howard, D.H., (eds.), Sea-
Culliton, T.J., Warren, M.A. , Goodspeed, T.R. , Remer, D.G. , Blackwell, C.M.
and McDonough, J.J., III, 1990. 50 years of Population Change alone the
Maryland, 41p.
Dolan, R. , Hayden, B. and May, S., 1983. Erosion of the U.S. shorelines, In:
CRC Handbook of Coastal Processes and Erosion. Komar, P.D. (ed.), Boca
Dolan, R. , Trossbach, S., and Buckley, M. , 1990. New shoreline erosion data
Davis, G.H. , 1987. Land subsidence and sea level rise on the Atlantic coastal
10, 67-80.
Davis, R.A. and Hayes, M.O. , 1984. What is a wave -dominated coast? Marine
Gornitz, V. and Kanciruk, P., 1989. Assessment of global coastal hazards from
sea level rise. Coastal Zone 89. Proceedings of the 6th Symposium on
Görnitz and Lebedeff, S., 1987. Global sea- level changes during the past
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century. In: Nummedal, D. , Pilkey, O.H. , and Howard, J.D., (eds) . , Sea-
Görnitz and Seeber, L. , 1990. Vertical crustal movements along the East
Coast, North America, from historical and late Holocene sea level data.
Jensen, R.E., 1983. Atlantic Coast hindcast. shallow water, significant wave
Experiment Station, 19 p.
Kana, T.W. , 1989. The South Carolina coast 1. Natural Processes and Erosion.
Kimball, S., Anders, F. and Dolan, R. , 1985. Coastal Hazards Map. U.S.
Lyles, S.D., Hickman, L.E., Jr. and Debaugh, H.A., Jr., 1987. Sea- level
Meier, M.F., 1989. Reduced rise in sea level. Nature . 343, 115-116.
National Ocean Service, 1988. Tide Tables 1988. NOAA, Washington, D.C., U.S.
P-
Oerlemans, J., 1989: A projection of future sea level rise. Climate Change.
22 2
15, 151-174.
Peltier, W.R. and Tushingham, A.M., 1989. Global sea level rise and the
260 p.
Ręsearch, 5, 147-159.
Pugh, D.Ï. , Spencer, N.E. and Woodworth, P.L. , 1987. Data Holdings of the
Permanent Service for Mean Sea Level. Bids ton Observatory, England, 156
P-
Till, R., 1974. gtatisficaļ Methods fpp çhe Earth SçjeptisÇ, London,
22 3
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Vulnerability Indices
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Appendix 1. Relative Shorelength of Landforms and Rock Types for the East
Coast and Subregions
NEW ENGLAND
2 3«
MID-ATLANTIC STATES
SOUTHEAST ATLANTIC
2oV