Professional Documents
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Blade S Guide To Making Knives
Blade S Guide To Making Knives
Published by
he cover knife was made by Michael Walker and showcases a blued “Zipper”
blade with a damascus cuting edge. Michael’s Zipper-blade folders are some of
the most highly collectible knives in the world. (PointSeven photo)
ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-240-8
ISBN-10: 0-89689-240-9
Printed in China
Table of Contents
4 Introduction
5 Preface
Joe Kertzman
Learn how to
make a beautiful
everyday working
knife like this piece
by Wayne Goddard,
certainly a master
at his craft. Joe Szilaski teaches readers
how to make a tomahawk
similar to the piece in the
movie “The Patriot,”
starring Mel Gibson.
The Viking sword by The prop in the movie
Jake Powning is a particular was based on a 1793
favorite of one of the book tomahawk the author
contributors, Don Fogg, who penned reproduced. This is
the chapter on sword making. the author’s version.
(PointSeven photo)
John Jensen’s art knives are highly regarded in R.J. Martin’s grinding style has led him toward
the knifemaking community as innovative edged sweeping grind lines that parallel the edge shape.
collectibles. John penned the chapter on building the He also prefers a grind line that sweeps up from
bolsters of “Alchemy.” the plunge area.
PREFACE ╭ 5
It’s High Time to Fashion
a High-Tech Folder
Allen Elishewitz reveals his secrets for building the
fancy tactical folders that have made him a force in
the knife industry By knifemaker Allen Elishewitz
T
here are many methods to build a knife and there is no The fancy locking-liner folder that
has resulted from this step-by-
wrong way to do it. You can use anything from simple
step instructional is completely
hand tools to industrial machines. The method I have handmade. The reason I choose
chosen for readers to follow allows for a high-tech folder to build all my knives in such a
manner is because it gives me, the
to be fashioned with either simple or large industrial-type
knifemaker, more flexibility in my
machines, the latter of which are like the ones I own. production method. It also allows
the knife to take on more of an
individual and unique appearance.
Keep in mind that, due to space
limitations, there are quite a few
small steps that I have excluded. I
will do my best to mention them
but I will concentrate on the most
important aspects of making a
high-tech locking-liner folder.
For this project, the knife
has titanium bolsters, a carbon
fiber handle and a damascus
blade. The locking-liner folder
integrates a classical handle/
bolster combination that, to build
it, entails an intermediate level
of difficulty. What makes the
folder more complicated to build
than other plain-handle knives is
the introduction of the bolsters.
The bolsters add just one more
aspect to handle construction,
and the alignment of the bolsters
and handle material must be
Although Allen Elishewitz uses large industrial-type machines in his shop, constantly maintained during the
his knifemaking methods are easy to follow employing simple hand tools. knife assembly.
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 7
After the layout spray is dried, I
take a vise clamp and I clamp my
pattern onto the .050-inch-thick
liner material. With a carbide-tip
scribe, I trace the pattern of my
handle onto the titanium.
For the knife, you will need two
liners—one is the lock side and
one is the opposite side. Then
you want to scribe your bolsters.
Remember you also need two
bolsters, one for the left and one
While the liners are lapping, Allen After the blade has been profiled to for the right side of the knife. You
grinds the blade to the scribed line the scribed line, Allen flattens one want to clamp your blade pattern
with a 60-grit belt. side on a disk. onto your damascus bar and
then scribe out the pattern of the
blade. Continue this process for
each part of the knife.
Once all your parts have been
scribed, you are ready to cut
them out. Remember to always
wear safety glasses and hearing
protection when operating a
band saw. Make sure you run the
band saw at the correct speed
for the material you are cutting.
You can tell the difference between the two pairs of liners and blades.
For example, you want to run
The ones on the right side are not perfectly flat and you can tell by the
your band saw faster when you
imperfection of the finish on the parts. The parts on the left side are what
are cutting your handle material,
you want to strive to achieve.
slower when you are cutting
your blade material and thicker
titanium.
Depending on the tooth per
inch, you might want to run a
little bit faster when you are
cutting thin liner materials. If you
do not run the blade faster, you
are chancing stripping the teeth
off the blade.
When cutting, I use a push-
stick to protect my fingers and
allow leverage in tight areas. I
The author uses a vise clamp to The pattern allows the author to spot also wear gloves, mainly to lessen
attach the blade pattern to the all the holes he will need to drill. the vibration to my hands.
damascus blade. All titanium liners will be
In preparation for heat-treating, the blade is wrapped in steel foil. A breather hole is poked in the resulting foil bag
so that a vacuum situation will not present itself, possibly warping the blade.
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 9
To spot the holes in the lock-side liner, and drill them to the appropriate Allen de-burrs and flattens the
sizes, the author clamps the handle pattern onto the .050-inch-thick liner. bolsters on a disk grinder.
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 11
Before counter-boring the pivot-
pin hole to accept the head of the
pivot pin, the author squares up
the back end of the bolsters where
the handle material will come into
Before drilling the pivot-pin hole, Allen screws the two liners together contact with them. He then locates
through the spacer holes. Three screws holding the liners together will the screw hole and drills and
prevent them from shifting during the drilling process. counter bores it on the bolsters.
As you can see, the bolsters are
bore the handle material for the
then screwed onto the liners and
mounting screws.
everything is aligned.
I take my G-10 spacer, which
has been ground to a specific profile the liners and contour the
size, and clamp it onto my handle bolsters, I do not want to take
pattern. I will drill out the holes the risk of burning the handle
for the screws. After this is done, material.
all the parts have been drilled. With the knife handle
At this point, I screw the assembled (minus the handle
bolsters onto the liners, and I material), I start profiling the
slip a pivot pin through the pivot liners. I start with a 60-grit belt,
holes of both the bolster and eventually graduating to a 120-
the liner. I insert a pivot spacer, grit belt, and finally to a 400-grit
which is a piece of G-10 that is belt. I use a variety of wheel sizes,
the same thickness as my spacer like 8-inch, 3-inch and 1-inch
material. This will prevent the wheels. Also, I use serrated and
front end of the knife from flexing plain wheels. Serrated wheels are
This photo shows the pair of
bolsters in which the pivot hole has when I contour the bolsters. more aggressive on the material
been drilled and reamed to .250- Then I take my spacer and the and will keep it cooler. Plain
inch thickness. You will notice that other liner and screw the knife wheels are a lot smoother with
one of the liners is missing the pivot together. I do not attach the less vibration. I use serrated
pin and the stop pin holes. handle material because, when I wheels for the coarser-grit belts
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 13
Allen grinds
the handle
material to the
liners and finishes it with a 400-grit
belt, making sure that the handle
The bolsters are ground down to a 120-grit finish. material is flush with the liners.
I gather the pivot pin, stop pins between two pieces of steel. The
and washers and put away all the two pieces of steel act as a heat
detailed parts to prevent them sink, helping draw the heat away
from getting scratched. The liners from the blade and cool it down
are the only things that do not get quicker. Also, as the heat is drawn
detailed at this point. I also give out from both sides, it helps
the inside of the liners a slight prevent the blade from warping.
chamfer to remove any sharp When the blade is cool enough
corners. to handle, I put it on a hardened,
With the liners and handle precision, flat piece of steel and
material taken care of, now it is hold it up to the light to see if
time to focus my attention on there is any warpage or bow. I
the blade. For this particular place the blade, with the side that
knife, I am using Damasteel—a I ground flat on the disk down, on
Swedish powdered stainless that piece of steel. This side will
steel damascus. I heat it to 1,975 let me know how much the blade
degrees Fahrenheit (F), and air has moved during heat-treating.
quench and temper it twice at Since, prior to heat-treating it
At this point, the profile of the 350 degrees F. When I take the was absolutely flat, the light will
knife is down to a 400-grit finish, blade out of the oven at 1,975 show any gaps.
and the handle material has been degrees, I immediately cut the If the blade has a bow, I use my
contoured to a 600-grit finish. bag and place the red-hot blade arbor press to straighten it out.
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 15
When the blade is cool enough to handle, it is placed on a hardened,
precision, flat piece of steel and held up to the light to see if there is any
warping or bow.
This is well worth to a 400-grit finish. I profile the to that one side.
mentioning—damascus steel edge of the blade with a smooth If you do not flatten one side
has a much higher tendency to 90-durometer, 8-inch wheel. I and there is a slight bow, when
warp because the steel is placed use a hard wheel for this process you surface grind your blade,
under a tremendous amount of because I want the edge to be the magnetic chuck will pull the
stress during the initial forging flat with minimal rolling of the blade flat. The result is that you
process. From my experience, corners. A softer wheel, if pressed will have a parallel blade but it
when it comes to warping, twist- hard enough, will roll the edge of will be bowed. So by flattening
pattern damascus is one of the the material. one side you will have a straight
worst offenders. This is due to When the edge is completely and parallel blade. If this was
the nature of the process used to done, I flatten one side on the a plain stainless steel blade, I
achieve a twist pattern. disk grinder. The side that I would surface grind the blade to
After the straightening process, flatten is the same side I flatten a particular thickness. Since this
the blade is double tempered and prior to drilling and heat- is damascus, the surface grinding
then it is time to start working on treating. This gives me a known will take place later.
it. The entire edge of the blade is flat surface on the blade. It also The best and most accurate
refined, straightened and brought removes any type of warp or bow way to scribe the cutting edge
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 17
Nealy is a modern knifemaker
who employs this style on a knife
he calls the “Pesh-Kabz.” I have
done this grind on some of my
big fighters in the past but it
wasn’t until a knife I collaborated
on with Joel Pirela, named the
“Helix,” that I used it again.
You want to hold the blade
firmly in your hand with your
wrist, forearm and elbow tight
against your side, and plunge it
straight into the contact wheel.
For the next step, I switch to
With a permanent marker, mark where your stop pin will come in contact a smooth 90-durometer contact
with the blade. Then mark the face of your blade and scribe an arc where wheel. I am using a 120-grit belt
your ball detent will travel. and this is the belt with which
I do most of my work. The 120-
grit belt removes all the 60-grit
scratches, bringing the grind line
close to where I want it to be. The
thickness of the cutting edge is
finally established.
When I stop using the 120-grit
belt, I know that all the 60-grit
scratches have been removed.
Once again, I hold the blade
firmly in my hand, put my wrist,
elbow and forearm tight against
my side for stability, and I plunge
the blade straight into the contact
wheel.
You want to hold the blade firmly in your hand with your wrist, forearm and Something to keep in mind
elbow tight against your side, and plunge it straight into the contact wheel. about the speed of my grinder
is that I use a variable-speed,
2-horsepower DC grinder. With
the 60-grit belt, I run the grinder
at full speed, and while using
the 120-grit belt, I reduce the
grinder to 80-percent speed. This
prevents the steel from getting
In this photo, you will notice that the first grind has been started with the too hot as the grit becomes finer.
60-grit belt. Allen made sure he kept away from his reference points when It also allows me to have better
grinding. You can see from the grinding marks on the blade how the author control of the grind so I do not
“plunge ground” the blade straight into the contact wheel. overly grind the blade.
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 19
the blade in the acid. You must be
careful when etching damascus
blades using this technique; if you
leave your blade in the muriatic
acid too long, you will ruin it.
To neutralize the muriatic acid,
I use a mixture of Windex, which
In this illustration, the center grind is completed. While grinding, the has ammonia and detergent,
author stayed away from his reference points, and the two plunges exhibit and baking soda, as an added
nice radii. insurance.
After the acid is neutralized,
I rinse the blade in water and I
begin to polish it. It is easier to
remove the residue of the blade
before the water has dried. I use a
medium felt wheel with a little bit
of rouge and I go over the bevel
In grinding the front end of the blade, nearest the tip, the author repeats and outer edge of the blade.
the steps he used for the center grind, but instead of grinding as high, he After polishing, I surface grind
grinds it much shorter. the blade. I surface grind the
flats to remove the pattern, thus
allowing the ball detent to ride
on the smooth surface of the
blade. It also helps enhance the
appearance of the damascus.
I have converted my surface
grinder to accept a 2-inch-by-
72-inch belt. The 90-durometer,
6-inch serrated wheel will keep
the blade cooler than a stone or
a smooth wheel, and therefore
will also prevent the blade from
To etch the damascus, the author
warping. To prevent rollovers
uses a coat hanger with a plastic
(the edge of your blade will roll
sleeve as a rod to suspend the blade A mixture of Windex and baking
over due to the contact wheel
in muriatic acid. soda neutralizes the muriatic acid.
pressure) with this set-up, you
extremely fine finish, I go around on top of a piece of Micarta. The need a hard, 90-durometer wheel,
the edge of the blade with a jar and Micarta are placed in a and you must take lighter cuts.
Scotch-Brite wheel. This ensures small fryer filled halfway with A lot of knifemakers have a
that the edge of the blade has a water and brought to a boil. The tendency to want to remove too
fine finish and any deep scratches Micarta prevents the glass jar much material when using a belt.
will be removed at this point. from breaking. When the water is I put the side that I ground flat,
It is now time for etching the at a boil, the blade is ready to be using the disk, down onto the
damascus. I use muriatic acid in etched. I use a coat hanger with a magnetic chuck. I use a fine-pole
a preserve jar, and I set the jar plastic sleeve as a rod to suspend magnetic chuck because it has
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 21
then take a barrel lap, charge it
with diamond paste and run it
in the pivot hole. With the barrel
lap, I am not trying to enlarge
the hole too much but I am
trying to produce a smoother and
more concentric hole. This will
enhance the action of the blade.
I take the two liners, and with a
permanent marker, I mark a spot
on the lock side. This is where the With the blade perfectly flat and parallel, it is now time to cut the bevel for
the lock in the tang. The author uses a brand-new 320-grit belt and a 90-
locking bar will come in contact
durometer smooth wheel.
Allen adjusts the tool rest to a specific height that he knows will result a 6 The author runs a ¼-inch carbide
½-degree-angle tang bevel. To verify this angle on the blade, the author reamer in the pivot hole to
uses a vernier protractor that is accurate to 5 minutes of a degree. recondition it.
saw blade that I use is ¼-inch throughout your bar. place my blade using the two
wide, the hole allows me to rotate I split a 400-grit belt and I run washers and, finally, assemble the
the liner 90 degrees to complete it as a slack belt, enabling me knife. At this point, I can open
the cut for the locking bar. The to look at the liner while I clean and close it to see if anything
advantage of doing it this way is the band saw cuts. After this is looks out of place. The two stop
that you can keep your locking done, I grind the lock face to the pin holes are exposed so I can
bar relatively parallel to the scribed line. I de-bur my liner insert pins and verify if the knife
contours of the handle from one and bend the locking bar about is working in both the open and
end to another. If the locking bar 3/16-inch high. Now the knife is closed positions.
is not parallel due to a straight ready to be fitted. Since the folder is of open-
cut, when you bend your spring, I take the liner with the locking frame construction, the ball
you will have thin and thick spots bar, insert a pivot pin, then I detent on the locking bar is
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 23
After fitting up the lock, and the ball detent has been spotted on the blade,
Allen takes apart the knife and bead-blasts the liners. Then he anodizes the
titanium liners blue and engraves his name and the year on the inside of
the liners.
Now it is time to sharpen the blade
and the knife is almost complete.
A HIGH-TECH FOLDER ╭ 25
Making the Everyday
Working Knife By Wayne Goddard
M
y experience has taught me that there's nothing should get started. I recommend
like digging in and getting started. I've often said the first knives be made with
simple and even makeshift tools.
the hardest part of the most difficult project I ever
That’s the kind of thing that
completed was getting past the decision to get started. Once lets you ease into knifemaking
I get started, it becomes a matter of problem solving and without spending a lot of money.
See the photo of a backyard
never giving up. The great inventor Thomas Edison wrote,
knife shop. If the simple method
“Many of life’s failures are people who did not realize how is not for you, it won’t hurt
close they were to success when they gave up.” my feelings—just grab your
checkbook and credit cards and
head for town. Don’t forget the
list of basic tools.
Old School
I’m what you would call an old-
school knifemaker. That’s because
I never learned CAD (Computer
Aided Design) or CAM (Computer
Aided Manufacturing). I don’t
work with titanium or drill and
tap a lot of holes in order to put
knives together with screws.
To me, “old school” is riveting
together the handle and blade
tang, giving the knife a unique
personality by hand finishing all
the parts. There are no square
corners—everything is rounded,
smooth and friendly.
About Design
Here’s the author at work in his backyard as it was setup for “The $50 Knife It’s been said that good designs
Shop” project. Originally a series of articles in BLADE® Magazine, a book evolve, and I believe it. When
compilation, titled “Wayne Goddard’s $50 Knife Shop,” is available from I got started in knifemaking, I
the publisher of this book. didn’t have one clear thought
he Everyday However, they said he could have a broken butcher knife that was in one of
the garbage cans. He could find only the handle. The blade was nowhere
Working Knife to be found. He used a huge bench grinder and shaped this weird little
knife from the butcher knife handle. You can see from the hole in the blade
Design where the rivet closest to the blade used to be. He fixed the little knife up
The design for the project with a cardboard sheath and was back in the box-opening business.
knife is practical and simple
from a construction standpoint. been stripped away. Therefore handmade knives.
Although a simple knife, it’s also our project knife won’t showcase I’ve always figured that
a good working knife. History is fancy file work, gold plating, upturned points were left over
on our side because it was simple inlays, attached guards, bolsters from the bowie knife era. The
working knives that got meat or a pommel cap. It will employ drop-point blade is not only
from the hoof and into the kettle. only that which is necessary to stronger but also more useful for
And, there were all the other get the work done. almost every job of which I can
cutting chores required for those The blade is known as a fathom. The drop-point blade
living close to the land. A fancy “dropped point.” I call it a utility allows the opening cuts on game
design or beautiful finish wasn’t shape. If you look up “utility” in a animals to be made without the
required; all that was necessary dictionary, you’ll find something point digging in. When it comes
was a sharp blade with a good like, “the quality of being of to skinning or processing meat,
handle to grip. practical use.” The advantages of the drop point, or the slight
It’s been said that the perfect the drop-point blade are many modification known as a “semi-
design is achieved when when compared to the upturned skinner,” is hard to beat. See the
everything that isn’t necessary has point on some commercial and related photo.
on our experience and the type equipment and methods to work Seting up Shop
work we do. An electrician my way through the basic project I recommend easing into the
working in the mild climate of knife. Along the way, I’ll explain purchase of major tools. I’ve
Eugene, Oregon, will need a very how it would be done with more heard of new knifemakers giving
different knife than that used by sophisticated tools. excuses for sloppy workmanship
a rancher from Wyoming. On The project knife will have a because of poor tools. Frankly, it
the other hand, my experience narrow tang with a two-piece was not the tools but the makers’
is that most folks actually get handle that is carved out to own lack of skill that was the
the work done with whatever receive the tang. This is a handle problem. Give a new maker all
knife they have, regardless if it that requires no attached guard, the tools in the world and it will
is truly suitable for the job. The and can be done with all hand be a long time before he or she
governing principle is that when tools. I like the lightweight feel is turning out consistently good
real work has to be done, any of knives put together with this work.
knife is better than no knife. See method and employ the process I’ve been digging around in
the photo of a quickie survival often for every type of knife, from the handmade knife scene for
knife I made before I was a small utility pieces to larger camp 42 years, and I’ve rarely seen a
knifemaker. knives. See the drawing showing “talent for knifemaking.” It’s all
I’ll be taking the approach the profile of all the knife parts, about practice and it takes weeks,
to making the working knife and use it as a pattern for pieces months and sometimes years to
as if it will be the first project necessary to complete the project develop the skills necessary to
for a new maker. I’ll use simple knife. make knives good enough to hold
Shown are two views of a double-disc machine. The missing disc was on backorder as of the photo taking. It will
be completed with adjustable work tables and guards.
Here’s a Major
Tool List:
1. A 2-inch-by-72-inch belt
grinder, which is the standard of
the handmade knife industry for
many good reasons. For that size
of a belt grinder, excellent, quality
belts are available in any grit and
type you would ever need. The
Coote belt grinder gets my vote as
the most machine for the money.
It comes without a motor. With
some luck, a suitable motor can
be found for a fraction of the
cost of a machine with a motor
Demonstrated are three ways to cut bar stock.
installed. The Coote 2-inch-by-
72-inch grinder with a 10-inch Knifemakers supply companies pocket. it is wise to purchase
contact wheel is around $400. sell these adapters, as does rather than do with makeshift
The Coote is available from the Sears. You’ll need some 8-inch tools. I got my start in 1963 with
manufacturer, no middleman, or 10-inch buffing wheels and a homemade grinder. See the
and that saves dollars; compounds from one of the photo of the faithful replica of
2. A drill press—the imported knifemaker supply companies. that machine, which was used for
type for $75-150 will be adequate. The author sets his up as shown the making of the project knife.
See the accompanying photo for in the related photo; and
the author’s collection of drill
presses;
5. Band saw for wood. A small
one from Sears or an import
he Angle
3. A decent bench grinder can place will do to start with. Grinder
be purchased for $75 or less. I’ve made two knives using only
Check with Sears, Costco or one
of the import places. You might
A Homemade an angle grinder, also called a disc
grinder. The only good thing I can
not want to use a grinding wheel Bench Grinder say for it is that the belt grinder
that much, but with one end I did 90 percent of the work was not needed. The blades were
set up with an abrasive cutting on the project knife with my forged to shape, rough ground
wheel, it just might become one homemade hard-wheel grinder. with a hard abrasive disc and
of your most-often used tools; Making a grinder isn’t for then finished with the flex disc
4. A used, 1/3-to-1/2- everyone because it takes time attachment. Nothing beats them
horsepower, 1,750-rpm, double- and a certain amount of money for taking the scale off of forged
ended motor with work arbors to fashion one. If you consider blades or damascus billets. These
attached will make a good your time to be worth something grinders come in a wide variety of
enough buffer. That’s what I use. and you have the dollars in your sizes and price ranges.
This shows the layout for drilling and breaking apart the bar stock.
Shown is the layout for creating
the radius at the tang shoulder by
using drilled holes.
he Flat Disc but the threaded aluminum discs
are still in production. If you can
Machine find the discs, then the search is arbor and pillow blocks were
purchased locally. The 9-inch
The flat disc machine makes on to find an arbor on which to
it possible to create an absolute mount them. The place to look discs run on a shaft supported by
tight fit between matching for the discs is at lapidary supply ball-bearing pillow blocks. The
surfaces, something that is not stores. See the photo. advantage of the double discs
possible with a belt grinder. A paper-cutting jig cuts a full is that they allow for left- and
There are two necessary things sheet of sandpaper so that there right-hand rotation. This makes
to get the most out of a flat disc is not so much waste. See the it much easier to refine the grind
machine—the disc has to run photo. The strips created are used termination on both sides of a
extremely true, and the on/off for the hand finishing required blade. The 9-inch size allows the
switch needs to be the foot- in much of knifemaking. The 8- user to cut discs from standard-
operated type. inch square piece of sandpaper sized sandpaper. See the photo.
“A” is the layout dye, scribe and center finder made from worn-out files, as well as a close-up of the
centerline being marked. “B” is a surface gauge modified with a carbide scribe to make it suitable for marking the
centerline on a blade. The blade and surface gauge are placed on a flat surface, and the adjustment screw is used
to find the center. By moving the blade past the point of the scribe, the line is scribed.
flexible disc. See the photo of hundred knives with such a setup when you figure their cost into
the author using a homemade before I had a belt grinder. the sale price of your product;
grinder to shape the blade bevel. Once I built my first belt it’s your customer who buys
When I got my start in grinder, I only used the grinding the material. The only time the
knifemaking, all I owned was a wheel for rough-grinding blade expense comes out of your pocket
homemade hard-wheel grinder profiles in order to save on is if you can’t sell the knife.
to profile and to grind the rough sanding belts. The time required
bevels. At first, I smoothed blades cancelled the savings in belts. It he Flat Grind
up using a flexible-disc attached was actually kind of foolish if I When using a belt grinder,
to, and rotated by, an electric would have considered my time the flat surface is relatively easy
drill. Before long, I had mounted to be worth money. to establish. That is not so easy
an electric motor on an upright Sharp, new belts are required using a grinding wheel because
frame and attached the flexible for getting the bevels set up it takes lots of different “tracks”
disc to the shaft, which put the accurately. Many grinding errors to make the wedge, and then the
disc in the horizontal position. that new makers make are caused tracks have to be blended into the
This allowed me to control by trying to work with dull belts. surface of the steel with a disc
the blade with both hands and Make up your mind that each sander, or by draw filing.
see what I was doing. I ruined hunting knife is going to cost you Use a red, waterproof marking
more than a few abrasive discs the price of at least two new belts. pen to ink in the blade prior to
by jamming them on the sides To build a bowie knife takes as each new grit size. I use 60-grit
of blades where the discs were many as five belts. belt for rough grinding the blade,
cutting towards the edges. With It’s time for an adjustment to then go to a 120-grit belt, which
this type of setup, it would have the thinking process if you worry creates a fine enough finish prior
been nice to have a reversible about the expense of materials for to heat-treat. Use an OptiVISOR
motor. I made close to three knifemaking. Materials are free or other headband magnifier
Medium Crystalon stone is used for creating the radius on the back of
Sequence the blade. Note the grooves worn in it from many years of use for this
operation. When a groove gets worn to where it is too wide, just start
for Grinding another one. Use odor-free kerosene or lamp oil for lubricant on the stone.
the Bevels: width of the bevel is established steel to take off after the blade is
1) Double-check the blade and fairly flat. As an alternate hardened and tempered;
profile to see if it is correct; method, you can create a convex 9) Put together a blade-wedge-
2) To establish the thickness blade shape as you go along. checking jig made of wood or
of the edge, I like to make two Use a straight edge to check other material. See the related
lines with approximately 1/32- the progress of either the flat or photo. Adjust the jig on a knife
inch between the two. Grinding convex grind. If you find that blade that has a wedge that you
to the line from each side will you are having a lot of trouble like, lock the wing nut and then
leave approximately the correct with the grinding it would be put the blade you’re working
thickness at the edge to make it appropriate to get some mild in the gauge to see if it is thin
safe for the quenching operation. steel on which to practice; enough;
If the bevels are brought down 6) Be especially careful to not 10) If you don’t have a belt
to a thin, nearly sharp edge, the grind past the drawn lines that grinder, use a disc sanding
edge may crack or warp during mark the termination point of the setup to smooth up the tracks
the quench. The photo on page grind. Also, don’t grind so high on from the grinding wheel. If the
38 shows two ways to mark the the back as to make the back of grinding wheel was 36-40 grit,
centerlines; the blade thinner than you want; start disc sanding with an 80-
3) Mark the place on the side 7) Grind several passes on one grit disc, then go to a 120-grit
of the blade where the bevels side of the blade and then grind disc, and then to a 240-grit disc.
will end, sometimes called the the same amount on the other That will be fine enough to go
“plunge grind” or “termination side. This keeps the stress in the into the heat-treating sequence.
point;” blade more uniform. Taking off The self-adhesive discs are used
4) Grind a flat bevel, at all the material from one side of here; the flexible disc attachment
approximately 45 degrees, down the blade before the other side is was made for them. See the
to scribed line on each side of the ground can cause it to warp; accompanying photo. Trim off
blade; 8) Once more, do not make any excess disc material so that
5) Next, grind a series of the edge too thin prior to heat- a fairly sharp corner can be
shallow grooves, or tracks, the treatment. You should leave created;
length of the blade until the approximately 20 percent of the 11) You may find that your
Heat Sources
The heat source for the
quenching process must generate
an even heat and the temperature
needs to be controllable. If the
heat source is too hot, it will be
difficult to get a slow and uniform
Montana blade smith Ed Caffrey demonstrates the strength of a selectively
heat on the blade. When the blade
heat-treated blade in Dave Brandon’s shop.
is brought up to temperature too
desired results. Each steel type The intended use for the knife fast or in a heat source that it
has its own unique combination will determine the maximum too hot, the thin sections usually
of time/temperature cycles that hardness that will be acceptable. overheat. The gas forge is an
will result in a blade of superior I’m often asked what steel excellent source of heat for the
strength and cutting ability. type is best, or what steel type I quenching process when it can be
Edge-holding ability is almost prefer. My usual answer is that it adjusted to the temperature range
entirely dependent on a relatively depends on the heat-treatment. required.
high hardness. I would estimate As a general rule, proper heat- Here’s how a gas forge works:
that 95 percent of handmade treating is more important A flame heats the liner of the
knives are between 57-61 Rc on than the steel type. A relatively forge or furnace and the radiant
the Rockwell hardness scale. The simple steel, when properly heat- heat from the lining heats the
specific alloy elements in some treated, will outperform a more material. A burner-tube or torch
types of steel will allow them to sophisticated steel that has a burning in the open air to heat a
have more strength than other defective heat-treat. I’ve proved work-piece wastes what I would
types at the same hardness. this many times. estimate to be 200 percent or
he One-
Brick Forge
The one-brick forge I created
started out with one brick and
proved to be incredibly useful.
As I learned more about working
with soft bricks and found a
better torch, what I call the Pictured is the Extendo Forge.
out where he gets firebricks. The firebrick forge with the dangerous situation. The safety
The common hard bricks will JTH7 torch will easily heat 1/4- holder is made from a large-size
not work to make the little forge. inch-by-1-inch bar stock to forge juice can that is mounted to
The high temperature bricks, blades from 4-6 inches long. a plywood base. The holder is
sometimes called “insulating Most other torches can only be then held to the workbench with
bricks” are absolutely necessary. used “on,” without any way to a wood screw.
The temperature range for the regulate the heat. The photo A safety holder for the torch
soft bricks is 2,800-3,000 F. shows the project blade being would have saved a roof that
There is only one brand and heated. partially burned off a house in
model propane torch that I Test your one-brick forge by our neighborhood. A bicycle
recommend. It’s the BernzOMatic placing a piece of 1-inch-by- fell against a workbench and
JTH-7 “hose torch.” It’s named a 1/4-inch bar stock in the heat knocked a propane torch off and
“hose torch” for the 4-footh hose chamber. Fire up the torch and onto the floor. The torch wasn’t
with a torch tip on the end. There see how long it takes to bring running but when it hit the
is also a regulator valve on the it up to forging temperature. It cement floor the torch broke off
bottle. shouldn’t take more than 5-6 the bottle, releasing the gas. The
A regulator valve is necessary minutes to get 3 or more inches escaping gas was ignited by the
because it allows the temperature of the bar up to the forging pilot light on the water heater.
to be adjusted. The hose torch temperature. The flames went up the wall and
runs extremely hot on the high It’s important to have a safety into the attic through the access
end but can be adjusted back holder for the 16-ounce propane door that had been left ajar.
to run cool enough to use for bottle. The small, propane To make the mini forge,
annealing and hardening small torches can be dangerous if carve the 1-inch-by-1-1/2-inch
parts. When running on the dropped or knocked off of a heat chamber hole lengthwise
high end, you’ll like the extra workbench. The valve unit can completely through the brick
heat because it makes for quick break off and the propane will with a junk knife blade. Or drill
heating of the chamber. be quickly released causing a it out with an old drill bit and
A Quick
Hand-Rubbed
Finish
A nice finish for a working knife
can be done rather quickly with
all handwork. It’s quick because
the strokes are all lengthwise with
the blade. The quick-rubbing
process results in a nice, although
not perfect, finish because there
are usually some coarse lines
or ripples under the final finish.
The trick is to keep the scratch
pattern all going in the same
direction with the length of the
A piece of natural sandstone is being used for hand finishing. blade. I may take the surface to
a 400-grit finish and then use sandpaper are more economical sharp shop knife. Fold that piece
polishing compound on leather to when purchased in a 50-sheet again lengthwise and cut. Fold
finish it off. sleeve. that piece but don’t cut it, and
Here is my procedure for the wet or dry paper will then be
is no longer than the base of the through the palm of his hand. instead of up into your face.
motor. The idea is that there is I don’t think he incurred any My buffing-wheel guards are
nothing between the buff and the permanent damage, but he made out of 3/4-inch plywood,
floor. Some type of pad should missed a lot of work and had then glued and screwed together.
be placed under the buffer so the expense of getting his hand My theory is that a knife blade
that a blade thrown down by the repaired. I have more true horror propelled around the wheel
buffing wheel isn’t damaged, or stories about buffer accidents might stick into the wood before
worse yet, deflected back up into but will not tell them here. I’ll it gets to me. A lip at the front of
the wheel or operator. just state my opinion that I think the guard can be adjustable so
Many years ago, I taught a the buffer is the most dangerous that it can be lowered when the
friend to make knives. He got in machine in the knife shop. wheel gets worn down. The top
a hurry and mounted his buffer Buffing wheels should have of the buff guard is handy for
directly on top of a bench. The guards over them. See the photo storing compounds and other
buffing wheel caught the guard that shows the way I do it. junk.
on a dagger and flipped it down Even if nothing is ever
against the bench top. The knife propelled around the wheel and he Satin Finish
bounced off the table and back into your face, it is nice to have The most practical finish for a
into the wheel where it was the fluff and excess compound working knife is a satin finish. It
propelled around and directly projected down to the floor shows a pattern at a 90-degree
Domestic wood
types I like to use are
maple, walnut, Osage
orange and desert
ironwood. Osage
orange and ironwood
are the hardest and
most durable. I’m
fairly lucky to have
a good source for
Osage orange. The
pioneers that came to
the Willamette Valley
in Oregon by covered
wagon brought starts
with them. There
have the organic feel of natural embargo on Sambar stag. Elk and are many Osage orange trees still
handle materials. A young man deer antlers are not easy to come growing along the old Territorial
was handling one of my Micarta- by and not all are suitable. road north and east of Eugene.
handled hunting knives and Whenever possible, purchase I often use fiddle-back maple
remarked, “I don’t like it; it’s not antler and stag when you can and walnut, sometimes called
organic.” pick it out yourself. That is the “curly”, or “tiger tail.” The maple
Antler, both domestic and the only way to be absolutely sure used for the project has a lot of
imported Sambar stag, are good you get usable material. If you special memories that go with
handle materials but are better order stag or antler through the it. It came from an old-school
suited for knives made after the mail, be sure that you have return craftsman named Gillman
maker has more experience. Stag privileges for any of it that isn’t Keasey. He made bows and
is one of my favorite materials acceptable. arrows, and with them, won the
to work with but availability is Domestic hardwoods are an National Archery championships
not good. There is currently an economical source of material. in 1935 and 1936. That means
“A” shows a precision file guide with a blade in position for filing the shoulders square and in line. “B” shows
an attempt of mine from 20 years ago to make a file guide. It works but should be hardened. It has a sliding pin
holder at the left end, welded up solid on the right end. The long bars are 1/4-inch-by-1-inch with thick stuff
welded on at the wear points.
Here’s a bird’s-eye view of the vise setup for guard fitting. The jaw inserts are in place with a blade locked in them.
The guard is being pushed up against the shoulder by the guard pusher, which is being struck with a large ball-
peen hammer (bopper).
M
y first exposure to damascus knives was through An article by Wayne Goddard
in “Knives ’86” on welded wire
the book “Knives ’84.” As a new knifemaker,
damascus inspired me to try my
I was most impressed by the knives of Kemal hand at pattern welding steel. I
(Murad Sayen), Sid Birt and Hill Pearce. Since I had almost learned quickly that my wood
stove did not get hot enough
no contact with other knifemakers at the time, forging
to weld cable. Twenty years
damascus seemed like an impossible dream. later, I understand quite a bit
more about making damascus,
although I’m still not able to
pattern weld steel in my wood
stove.
Today there seems to be a
damascus maker on every corner,
and the opportunity to learn
to forge damascus is available
to almost anyone. In 2005, the
American Bladesmith Society
slated seven damascus classes
at the Bill Moran School of
Bladesmithing. The Sierra Forge
and Fire School held several
classes, one taught by yours truly.
There are numerous “hammer-
ins” around the country and most
have forging damascus on the
agenda.
Be warned that forging
damascus is addictive. I once
heard Daryl Meier, who I consider
the greatest modern maker of
damascus steel, say, “Making
damascus steel is a disease for
Devin Thomas draws out a bar on a 150-pound air hammer. which there is no cure.”
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 67
For specialized damascus
billets, 1084 and pure nickel can
be used, but edge holding is not
on par with 1084 and 15N20. For
some complicated mosaics, 1084
powder, 1018 powder, pure nickel
powder and 4600E powder work
well for me. The 4600E powder
is similar to 15N20 but has less
carbon.
As you’ve probably deduced,
I make an effort to keep my
damascus materials as simple as
possible. I try to avoid steels that
contain chromium, and since
eliminating the use of 52100 and
5160 blade steels, my success
has increased tremendously. By
eliminating as many variables
as possible, problems with forge Nineteen layers of 1084 and 15N20 are stacked with the thicker steel—
welding are easier to identify. 1084—on the top and bottom to keep the thin 15N20 from warping in
I have used various propane the heat.
forges to make all of my
damascus steel. My first was
built using plans I obtained from
Wayne Goddard, and the one
that I use now is similar to a Don
Fogg design. At hammer-ins, I
have used many variations of
these forge designs, and all have
worked well.
As with my philosophy on
knifemaking, I like my forge to
be simple—one burner with a
small blower to provide air. The
forge must be capable of reaching
2,300 degrees Fahrenheit, which
is no problem with a properly
regulated propane forge.
I use ceramic fiber insulation in
my welding forge, which is coated
with refractory cement to help
resist flux and also to protect the
A 19-layer billet is cut into five pieces and readied for a second weld, ceramic fiber from damage. Cast-
which will result in 95 layers. able refractories work well for
insulation also. They take longer The ability to change dies Hammers are more fun to run
to heat up, but hold the heat well quickly can be handy at times. than a press once you get the
and shorten the re-heating time The press I currently use was hang of them. They also distort
of the billet during the forging made by Jeff Carlisle of Great the patterns or figures in steel
process. There are many good Falls, Mont. I have employed a billets less often if the operators
forge designs out there and my good number of presses over the have good control of them. Bars
advice is to find one you like and years and have not found one can be drawn down more quickly
buy or copy it. that I like better. Dr. Jim Batson with hammers than with presses,
For about 12 years I have sells plans for a press similar to and power hammers tend to
been using a hydraulic press to the one that Carlisle markets. If knock forge scale off rather than
make damascus. The hydraulic you decide to purchase or build forge it into the billets as presses
press has several advantages a press, I would recommend that will do.
over a power hammer. For the it be at least 20 tons and have a Whether you choose a press
beginner, the press is much easier good quick-change die set up. or a power hammer, remember
to control, and dies can be made Power hammers embody the these machines can be dangerous.
for the press that encapsulate the traditional blade smith tool and Combine all the mechanical
entire billet, making the forge have been used to make tons of power with steel that is 2,300
weld much easier. For those damascus. I have used hammers degrees and serious injuries can
with less than understanding ranging in weight from 25 pounds occur. Always think safety first
neighbors, the press is quieter to 500 pounds at hammer-ins when operating a press or power
than a power hammer. and friends’ shops over the years. hammer.
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 69
1
Start with a 19-layer billet
Stacking the be hot-cut and folded onto itself
during the drawing out process to consisting of 10 layers of 1/4-
Steel Deck double the layer count. I have had inch-by-1-1/2 inch-by-6-inch 1080,
In preparing a billet for the first better success with the grinding and nine layers of 1/2-inch-by-1-
forge weld, I stack alternating and cutting process, but use 1/2-inch-by-6-inch 15N20, which
layers of 1084 and 15N20 to get whichever works for you. are stacked in alternating layers
the desired number of layers in The second weld will progress with the thickest material on the top
just like the first, and the number and bottom of the stack;
the billet. This may be as little as
three or as many as 25 layers for of layers will dictate whether a
third, or more, welding sequences
2
the initial weld. The layer count Clamp and weld one end and
is tailored to get the desired effect are necessary. then weld a handle on that
in the finished blade. These forge welds can be end. Weld one corner at the end
I always keep the thicker of accomplished by using two opposite the handle;
the two materials on the top different methods, namely
and bottom of the billet, which welding with flux, referred to as
3
Place the billet into a forge that
helps to hold the heat and aids a wet weld, and welding without
is preheated to 2,300 degrees
in decreasing warp as the billet flux, which is a dry weld. The
and soak until the billet is dull red.
comes up to welding temperature. steps to be followed for a wet
At this time apply anhydrous borax
The 1084 comes with light mill weld are:
as flux;
scale, which I do not clean off,
and 15N20, as I buy it, has no
scale and is used as-is.
After the initial forge weld, the
billet is reheated and drawn out
into a rectangular bar. The size
of this bar is dependent on how
many layers are desired in the
finished billet and the finished
size. The bar is then ground clean
of forge scale on the surfaces
that will be welded during the
second sequence. The bar can
This is the initial weld on a 4-inch-square billet.
Scale and flux come off of a billet during the first weld.
5
Weld the billet using a press or flux can be used to do a wet weld.
flux. This will usually result in a
hammer. If using a press, use The desired visual effect and
cleaner and stronger weld. This
dies that are longer and wider than the pattern will be factors in the
oxygen-free atmosphere can be
the billet to weld in one squeeze. number of layers in the finished
created several different ways:
If using a hammer, weld from the bar. I prefer a predominantly
handle end outward to allow the black-looking damascus, so
1
Make a sheet metal box that the
flux to escape; I like the 1084 layers to be
billet is placed into, and then
approximately twice as thick as
weld the box closed. Spray a small
6
Use a wire brush to remove the 15N20 layers. Because of its
amount of WD-40 inside the box, or
the flux and scale. Reheat the nickel content, the 15N20 layers
place a small piece of combustible
billet and forge into a rectangular do not compress as much as the
material inside, to burn off any
bar, reheating as many times as 1084.
oxygen inside the box;
necessary to reach the desired As the layer count increases,
length and width; the initial difference between .25-
2
Weld all exposed seams of the
billet to seal oxygen out; and inch 1084 layers and .075 15N20
7
Allow the billet to cool and layers becomes much smaller.
grind any scale off of the billet. This initial size difference seems
3
Use square tubing of an
Cut the billet into as many pieces to balance out to the effect that
appropriate size to contain the
as required to reach the desired I like at 200-300 layers. Some
billet.
number of layers; and experimentation with different
Forge weld as described in the thicknesses will teach the
8
Repeat the welding process wet welding sequence, omitting beginner how best to achieve the
and draw the billet out to the the flux. After the billet is drawn desired effect.
desired dimensions. The process to the proper dimensions, the box The damascus pattern applied
to the blade will also be a factor
to be considered in the layer
count. In my view, random
patterns seem to look best with
at least 200 layers. Twist patterns
do no need as many layers, as
twisting the bar tightens them.
Fifty to a-hundred-and-fifty layers
work well to achieve a twist
pattern. For a ladder or raindrop
pattern, 200 to 300 layers are
ideal and, with a good etch, will
give a holographic effect to the
Several billets come up to welding heat in the forge. The large, square billet blade.
on the left will be “dry welded” (without flux).
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 71
insure the proper thickness of the
finished bar.
After the grooves are pressed
into the bar, it is ground flat,
removing all the high spots.
The bar is forged to the desired
blade shape and the ladder
pattern becomes visible. If the
ladder designs are ground or
milled into the bar, they should
be approximately one-third the
thickness of the bar. After the
grooves are ground, the blade
is forged to shape with all the
grooves forged out of the bar,
resulting in a distinct ladder
pattern. Whether pressed or
ground, the ladders should be
Drawing the welded billet out requires stop blocks in the press to keep the
staggered from side to side.
billet sized correctly.
Creating the raindrop or pool-
and-eye pattern is essentially the
Radials and Twist patterns are similarly self-
explanatory. A bar of the desired same process as forge welding
Jellyrolls number of layers is forged into a ladder pattern, except that
The layer counts are only a a square and the corners are dimples are pressed or drilled
starting point and you may find forged down slightly. The bar is into the damascus bar instead
that you prefer more or less. In heated until it is close to welding of grooves. The resulting pattern
specialized damascus patterns, temperature, and then twisted. will look like bull’s-eyes or
such as radials or jellyrolls, far The twisting can be gradual or raindrops on a pond.
fewer layers are needed. It is also tight for varied effects. The center These are the most basic
possible to forge weld sections of each twist gives a star effect. damascus patterns and the
of high- and low-layer bars into Twisted blades should be left a same patterning techniques, and
one billet and get a high contrast little thicker than other patterns several others, are employed for
through patterning. as grinding deeper makes the star more advanced patterns. Before
Patterning of the flat laminated effect greater and the overall look moving on to more advanced
billet can be accomplished in is more pleasing. patterns and techniques, the
many ways. Random pattern Ladder patterns are damascus steel maker should
needs little explanation. The accomplished by pressing become adept at the forge
layers remain relatively flat and or grinding grooves across a welding process.
some distortion usually occurs damascus bar. If the pattern is More advanced patterns
during the forging. The distortion pressed into the blade, it should include the “W’s” design, and
causes the flat layers to bend and be approximately double the mosaic damascus. With the
results in a flowing, organic look thickness required in the finished “W’s” pattern, the initial billet
to the material, especially when bar. The grooves are pressed in is stacked just like a flat-layered
the edge bevels of the blade are with dies made of round rods, billet, and welded. Then, during
finish-ground. and stop blocks can be used to the drawing process, the billet
(PointSeven photo)
weld sequence will distort the
layers even more and make the
“W’s” much more dramatic. Any
layer count works well on this
Rick Dunkerley’s rocker-release folding dagger showcases a 280-layer,
pattern, and any of the patterning
ladder-pattern-damascus blade and 120-layer, random-pattern-damascus
techniques, including twists, bolsters.
ladders, raindrops and even
defined. At the BLADE Show in
accordions, help to further expose
the pattern. 1999, I questioned some of the
Steel Weaving
The next level of advanced best damascus makers on hand Class In Session
pattern welding is the making of as to their opinion on this topic The parquet or basket weave
mosaic damascus. The patterns and each one had a different is a relatively simple mosaic-
in mosaic damascus are visible definition for mosaic damascus. damascus pattern and makes
on the ends of the bars, yet Since there seems to be no clear for a good first mosaic project.
what truly comprises mosaic definition we will refer to all end- To begin, forge weld a low, 5-to-
damascus has never been clearly grain patterns as mosaics. 9-layered billet and draw it out
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 73
into a 1-inch square bar. Cut this
bar into four pieces and
stack them into a 2-inch-
by-2-inch square, with
the horizontal layers in
two opposing corners, and
the vertical layers in the other
corners.
Forge weld the stack and
draw the bar out, keeping
(PointSeven photo)
the bar square by forging
evenly on all sides. Several
The spurs are forged from
series of cutting
ladder-pattern W’s damascus made up
and re-welding as
of 1084 and pure nickel, then polished
described above will
and nitre-blued. They were made by
Rick Dunkerley. give a nice basket-weave pattern,
a design that works well for
background filler in complicated
i8wT
(Gallagher photo)
layered billet of flat laminates.
The bar is cut with a die, which
compresses the center layers.
The halves are then cut into four Pictured is a Barry Gallagher button-release folder parading a ladder-
pieces, stacked into a square and patterned parquet blade and handle scales.
then forge welded back together.
This gives the effect of the layers 1BSRVFU
radiating out from the center of
the square.
The radial technique applied to
a “W’s” pattern bar accomplishes
a spectacular design. As with all
of the patterning techniques, you
can try them with any billet that
you like. You never know when
you will come up with a great 'PSHFEXFME $VUJOUP 3FQFBUVOUJM
new pattern. MPXMBZFSFE QJFDFTBOE QBUUFSOJTPG
The jellyroll pattern starts with CJMMFU TUBDLBTTIPXO EFTJSFETJ[F
a low three-to-seven-layered billet
of flat laminates. The billet is (SJE
drawn out into a rectangular bar
and one end is tapered.
The tapered end is cut square
and rolled back onto the bar by
hammering it over the edge of the
anvil. It requires several heats to
completely roll the bar, and then
the handle is cut off of the bar 4UBDLTRVBSFCBST $VUJOUP 3FQFBUVOUJM
and welded to the center of the BTTIPXOXJUI QJFDFTBOE SFBDIJOHUIF
roll. The billet is then reheated, DPOUSBTUJOHNBUFSJBM SFTUBDL EFTJSFETJ[F
fluxed and forge welded into a CFUXFFOCBST'PSHF 'PSHFXFME
square bar. XFMEBOEESBXPVU
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 75
i3BEJBMTw
DVUUJOHEJF TRVBSJOH
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DVUUJOHEJF
$VUCJMMFUJOQJFDFT
TUBDLJOTRVBSFBOE
DVUJO SFXFMEJOTRVBSJOHEJFT
DVUUJOHEJFT
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(PointSeven photo)
never used it, the raindrop
patterning technique should also
bring the pattern to the surface of
a rectangular bar just as well as Sal Glesser of Spyderco Knives created his first mosaic damascus billet—
the ladder pattern method. not bad! It is cut and ready for four-way forging.
The accordion method is my
favorite way of exposing an end
grain or mosaic pattern. I like
i8BZw
the appearance of movement
and flow that is created by the
accordion technique. There are
several different methods that
can be used to open a bar like
an accordion, and I use one
suggested to me by Don Fogg. PSJHJOBMCJMMFU 0SJHJOBMDVUJOUPQJFDFT
The damascus bar is forged to BOESFXFMEFEJO
final dimensions and annealed. TRVBSJOHEJFT
The bar is then cut on a band
saw, removing triangles of gently weld them closed. I can is valuable to me and I do not
material from alternating sides usually flatten the whole bar in mind a little extra work to help
of the bar. After all of the cutting one heat. The bar is then forged maximize the material that I
is done, the sharp corners are to final dimension. obtain from the bar.
rounded off on a grinder. The bar The cut-out-triangles accordion
is then ready to flatten. While
flattening the accordion, the bar
method has worked so well
for me that I do not use other
Best hing Since
should be worked at a welding accordion methods. This method Sliced Bread
heat. If the bar tears at the is more labor-intensive, but at Another popular method of
bottom of the cuts, apply flux and this stage, the damascus bar exposing end grain patterns is the
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 77
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using twist-
damascus and
accordion-mosaic
damascus bars, the
Wade Colter’s damascus masterpiece is a beautiful example of a latter in an Indian
composite-bar blade with a twisted-mosaic-damascus core revealing sun pattern.
images of the Alamo. The edge bars are twisted W’s.
(PointSeven photo)
which is ground off after the i-PBGw
forge weld. This method also does
not distort the original pattern.
The final method of exposing
end grain patterns to be
addressed is the plug weld. The
original bar can be turned or
forged into a round bar and plugs
are then cut off. A hole is drilled
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MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 79
into a blade and the plug is fit degree bias, the pattern in the bar create the pattern I call “Persian
into the hole. A good, tight fit is will be distorted. The distortion Ribbon.” Four blocks are stacked
desirable, and the plug should be continues as the bar is forged on in a square with borders of
slightly thicker than the blade. the bias until it is square again. contrasting material between
The blade and plug This can then be used as is, or the blocks. These are then forge
combination are heated to a incorporated into a four-way or a welded and turned on a bias, with
welding heat and welded in nine-way. the borders now creating an “X”
one press or hammer sequence. A pattern that is not so across the bar. The bar is then
Several plugs can be welded spectacular can be brought to opened up using the accordion
into one blade if desired. This life by using distortion to your method and the Persian Ribbon
is another method that does not advantage. The squares in a four- pattern is created by the “X.”
produce distortion. way will be triangles after a 90-
There are times when distortion
can be used to enhance a pattern
degree bias forging, and can then
be oriented on the next four-way
A Composite
or even create a new pattern. to create diamonds in the pattern. Sketch
By forging a square bar on a 90- This is the technique used to Damascus forging can be taken
to the next level with the creation
of a composite-bar blade, which
'PSHJOHPOBCJBT is one of my favorite edged
inventions. In my opinion, a well-
executed composite bar blade is
the epitome of damascus blade
forging.
Composite bar blades, such
as those forged by Rob Hudson,
PSJHJOBMCJMMFU SFTVMUJOHCJMMFU made a huge impression on
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me in my early years of forging
EFHSFFCJBT
damascus. I submitted five knives
for my American Bladesmith
1MVTXFME Society master smith test in 1997,
and four of those knives had
composite-bar blades. I made the
decision to submit composite-bar
blades because I felt the forging
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BSFTMJHIUMZUIJDLFSUIBOCMBEF'PSHFXFMEJO judges that I was a competent
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damascus steel maker. It must
have helped because I passed the
5JMFT test.
PWFSMBQ A composite blade can be made
TBDSJmDBMNBUFSJBM up of as little as two bars of steel,
or as many as a damascus maker
would like. Most of my composite
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BUUBDIXFMEUP blades consist of three to seven
TBDSJmDBMNBUFSJBMBOEGPSHFXFME bars.
(PointSeven photo)
after twisting. The bars are then
aligned and forge welded to make
the core.
The next bars, or edge bars, Rick Dunkerley
depending on how many built a mosaic-
bars one desires to add damascus folder in a
to the composite,
Persian ribbon pattern.
are then forged and
drawn down to the same size as steel, an EDM (Electrical
the core bars. They are then edge bevels are Discharge Machining) machine
welded on and the sequence then ground. This could be used to cut a figure
is repeated until the eliminates distortion of the from two blocks of contrasting
composite desired is achieved. bars that so much work went steel, and the male parts were
The result is a single into while trying to make them interchanged. Forge welding
rectangular bar with a square uniform. resulted in two bars with the
end. A more pleasing and skilled The possible combinations for same figure, one dark and one
look to the finished blade can be composite bar blades are endless. light. This method was very
accomplished by wrapping the Imagination is the only limiting expensive, and although intricate
edge bars around the outside factor and that is why composite details could be cut, distortion
of the blade, or creating the bar blades are some of my was still a problem with uneven
appearance that the edge bars are favorite damascus specimens. forging.
wrapped around the blade. When using powdered steel,
There are several ways to do
this, but as J.D. Smith suggested,
Nicely Figured one block can be cut on the
EDM machine and the figure is
cutting a V-shaped notch out of Damascus then removed and the hole filled
the end of the bar and then forge Beyond damascus patterning with contrasting powdered steel.
welding the “V” closed is my most is the topic of creating figures The male part can be placed
preferred method. I have used within the damascus steel. in a square tube with one end
other techniques, such as forging Placing pictures in damascus has capped, filled with a contrasting
the core to the desired blade now become commonplace, as powdered steel and forge welded.
shape and then wrapping the I have seen bird-hunting scenes This yields two bars with the
outside bar completely around and the outlines of mammoths, same figure for half the cost of
it. I have also welded two outside shamrocks, dragons and the EDM work.
bars to the forged-to-shape core. countless other objects in blades. A second method for making
Once the composite bar is The use of powdered steels has figures or pictures in steel is to
completed, I do not forge in the made creating these figures and cut plate material and stack the
edge bevels. The blade is ground pictures much simpler. plates. The plates can be cut by
to the desired thickness and the Prior to the use of powdered laser or water jet less expensively
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 81
than with an EDM. The plates
are stacked in a square tube, and
the cut-out figure is filled with
contrasting powdered steel, and
forge welded. I suggest that the
first weld be on the ends of the
stack to weld the plates to each
other and prevent the powder
from sifting between them.
The billet is then forged out
into a square bar with the figure
The center bars of a composite-bar blade are welded, and the next two on the end. This method provides
bars are ready to weld to the core.
great detail for a fraction of the
cost of the EDM, and materials
are more readily available.
Figures can also be made
by forming pure nickel sheet
around cut-out molds. I have
cut out wooden figures of birds,
fish, shamrocks and many other
figures to form the nickel around.
This is obviously inexpensive
and requires no outside work
like using the EDM or laser
cutting does. The nickel form
is placed in a square tube and
Two bars with opposing twists are ready to forge-weld together. These will
powdered steel is used to fill the
be the center of a six-bar-composite blade.
tube. Special shapes may also be
forged and placed in these billets,
using whatever it takes to get the
desired effect.
When using powdered steels,
you must compact the powder as
much as possible before sealing
the tube. Vibrating the tube
works well to help the powder
settle and become as dense as
possible. These billets feel soft
during the initial forge welding,
but after the billet has been
reduced by about one-third, it
will begin to feel solid.
Certain powders move at
Blade smiths Wade Colter, Shane Taylor, Barry Gallagher and Rick different rates while being forged,
Dunkerley collaborated on a six-bar-composite blade. so experience is critical in forging
(PointSeven photo)
The pinwheel was shaped from pure nickel and surrounded by
1084 powder steel. The initial billet was four-way forged
twice and then ladder patterned.
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MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 83
tremendous. In my opinion, we After drilling any holes needed perpendicular to the 320-grit belt
have only scratched the surface and grinding to a 120-grit finish, marks until they are gone. Then
and the possibilities for its use the blade is ready to harden. 600-grit wet and dry paper is used
are limitless. If the forging was uneven and to remove the 400-grit scratches.
required grinding one side of
Building Blocks the blade more than the other, I Scratch Removal
to Damascus recommend several more thermal
cycles before hardening.
Use each grit perpendicular
to the last grit’s scratches to
Making The hardening process for bars completely remove the marks.
These are by no means the only forged of a combination of 1084 Any belt marks that are left in
methods for creating damascus and 15N20 goes as follows: heat the blade will be highlighted,
patterns. It is my hope that the blade to 1,500 degrees in not camouflaged by the etching.
you will take this information high temperature salt; hold for The better the finish on the blade
and come up with your own two to three minutes; quench in before etching, the better the
ideas. These methods are meant preheated (120-degree) oil; and blade will look after the etching is
to be building blocks, and by the allow the blade to cool until it complete.
combining them or modifying can be handled comfortably bare When working with 1084 and
them, you may come up with handed. 15N20 blades, a 600-grit finish is
something truly unique. This should result in a fine enough to give a nice finish
Once a blade or bar of Rockwell hardness of 62-64 Rc. after etching. On blades that
Damascus has been forged, Two tempering cycles of one hour contain nickel, I finish to 2,000
it must be prepared for heat- each at 400-425 degrees should grit and mirror polish. The blade
treating. The first step is three produce a blade with a Rockwell can then be hot-blued, which
thermal cycles to relieve stresses hardness of approximately 58 gives a dramatic contrast between
imparted while forging the Rc. If high temperature salts the nickel and 1084 because the
damascus. The thermal cycles are unavailable, the blade can nickel does not accept the bluing.
consist of heating the bar to non- be heated to nonmagnetic and These blades can also be etched
magnetic and allowing it to cool quenched with similar results. like the 1084 and 15N20 blades.
for several minutes. This same heat-treating recipe My best etching results have
This is repeated two more will work for other combinations been obtained utilizing ferric
times, and after the third heating, of simple steels. The tempering chloride mixed as four parts
the bar can be allowed to cool cycles should be at a lower water to one part ferric chloride.
to room temperature, which is a temperature (350 degrees) and The etching solution should
normalizing step. This process raised 25 degrees incrementally be room temperature for best
greatly reduces the possibility until the desired hardness is results. The blade is submersed
of the blade warping during the obtained. in the solution for 10-15 minutes
hardening process. The hardened and tempered and then checked.
The blade or bar of damascus blade must then be finish-ground For me, two 10-15-minute
is then ready to anneal. It is and hand sanded so that it can cycles usually provide the etch I
again heated to non-magnetic be etched to reveal the damascus want. I then sand the blade with
and placed in vermiculite to pattern. 2,000-grit paper backed by a
slow the cooling process. After I grind my blades to a 320- hard sanding block to clean the
approximately six hours, the grit finish and begin hand oxidation from the higher layers.
steel is annealed and can then be sanding with 400-grit wet and The blade should be neutralized
drilled and ground easily. dry paper. The sanding is done in household ammonia—a 15-
minute soak works fine. A light has been gathered through Colter. Each one has contributed
coat of oil will help prevent rust personal experience and sharing tremendously to my success as a
while the knife is being finished. with some of the world’s greatest blade smith, and without them I
The end result is a damascus blade smiths. I can never fully am sure I would not be writing
blade ready to be made into a express my appreciation to Fogg, this article.
knife. If the damascus bug has Schwarzer, Thomas, Schempp, Out of respect to the above-
not bitten you at this stage, you Daryl Meier, Hank Knickmeyer, mentioned blade smiths, I ask
must be immune. If you are Al Dippold, Rob Hudson, and you to take this information and
infected, I welcome you to a the three other original members build upon it. Share what you
wonderful world. of the “Montana Mafia,” Shane learn and give credit to those who
The information shared here Taylor, Barry Gallagher and Wade help you along the way.
MOSAIC DAMASCUS ╭ 85
Dedicated to the Study
of Sword Making
Let the author walk you through the building of one
of the big blades, the lengthly lopper—the sword!
By Don Fogg
T
he time is right for a new age of swords. It is not the Blade smithing has been
revived in the past 25 years.
need for weapons that stimulates this resurgence, but
Stimulated by the development
rather a convergence of interests, that of the modern of the custom knife market,
swordsman and the modern blade smith. Each group is the craft has grown from the
inclusion of a handful of makers
dedicated to the study of its craft, each with teachers and
to a well-established core of
individuals intent on mastery. several hundred smiths. The
custom knife market was based
initially on handmade utility
knives for the sportsman, but it
rapidly evolved into an area of
collectibles, and the scope of the
knives broadened.
Concurrent with the
development of the blade
smithing craft, the martial arts
community began to experience
an explosion of interest. In
both areas, it would take years
of practice and study before
students developed the skills and
discipline required of mastery.
It seems that every year there is
a new blockbuster movie that
features swords. Video games
and animated characters all
have come to feature the sword.
Couple this with the popularity
of the martial arts and we seem
The author, Don Fogg, shown here taking a sword billet to the power to be entering a revival of this
hammer, says there are no schools for sword smithing and very few medieval sidearm.
classes. To learn the craft, you will have to be self-motivated and dogged The sword comes in many
in your pursuit (and reading “BLADE’s Guide To Making Knives” will forms and shapes. Each culture
help tremendously!). developed its own particular style
Sword Tooling
There are specific tooling
requirements to make swords.
Interestingly, you do not need a
deep, or long, fire to do the hot
work on a lengthy sword blade.
Heating more than a 5- or 6-inch Will your sword turn out as beautifully as the Celtic Chieftan by
section will only cause problems Jake Powning?
SWORD MAKING ╭ 87
Pictured is a sword-size forge, but The initial forging step is to prepare the overall shape of the sword blade.
on the smaller side. The profile and thickness of the steel are hammered to form.
Forging of the
Long Blade
The initial forging step is to Here is the author’s large forge.
prepare the overall shape. The
profile and thickness of the steel to break down the round bar, When I have finished, I have a
are hammered to form. The and keeping just a few sizes on rough bar with the preshape
Japanese call this initial shape the hand gives me the entire range of of my desired sword in the
sunobe. It prepares the billet for possibilities. proportional thickness.
the final edge beveling and shapes The initial stage involves Once the sunobe is formed,
the tang. Careful forging at this breaking the steel down to bar then the edge bevels can be
point will make the final forging stock. During this process, I established. I have found
go smoothly. am setting my dimensions and that beginning the forging by
I work from round stock thickness. The next step is to establishing a mini bevel with
primarily because I have the tools forge the tang and point shapes. light hammer blows allows you
SWORD MAKING ╭ 89
straight. I saw a demonstration
by Japanese swordsmith
Enomoto, and he corrected
this action by first reversing the
direction of his forging, and
then by changing ends of the
sword and reforging. In effect, he
removed the twist by unwinding
it through the reverse process.
Keeping the flats straight is the
objective in either case.
Once the bevels have been
established over the entire length
of the sword, the blade is sighted
for major correction. There will
be areas that bow out or in down
its length and those are flattened
now. The straightness of the blade
is corrected at this point until the
blade is eyeball close.
Now it is time to enter the
The hammer arm is comprised of the shoulder, elbow and wrist joints. Each final forging. At this point, the
of these joints must be coordinated in order to strike a consistent blow. bevels are forged back to the
ridgeline, but the edge is still
Working 5 inches of blade precurve the blade down and then too thick. Heats at this stage
length at a time, the work it will straighten out as the bevel should be at or slightly above
progresses down the blade and is forged. This is easier to do in critical temperature. Using a light
includes forging the bevel up, small blades than in sword-length hammer will give more control
making sure it is equidistant pieces, but it can be done. There and you are not as likely to make
on both sides, forging the curve is no advantage of one method an uncorrectable error because
back out and then correcting the over the other and each has its you can not move the metal as
distortion to the edge. own peculiar set of problems. quickly with the light hammer.
Another problem that comes It is important that you
SWORD MAKING ╭ 91
steel. Once it does start to bite,
however, it will pull curls off the
steel.
There is a lot of heat generated
during this process, and if you
work too quickly, it can create
carbide pimples on the surface of
the steel that will dull a file. You
can generate the same problem
if you are too aggressive with a
file. Once these carbides form,
you have to dig them out with
the edge of a worn file before any
more cutting can be done.
As you forge the bevel and the edge climbs, reserve enough heat to make It is best to work at a steady
the correction. The author usually does this by placing the spine on the pace, watch your breath and toil
anvil and lightly tapping on the edge until the spine is completely flat on the at a rate that does not leave you
anvil. panting. All rough shaping on the
flats and bevels can be established
with the scraper and then cleaned
up with files.
Draw Filing
The best filing technique is
called draw filing. Using an 8- or
10-inch bastard mill file, hold
the file with your hands on both
ends. Work the file at right angles
and lengthwise on the blade. You
need to find the right amount of
pressure when using a file. Too
much pressure and the teeth will
Working 5 inches of blade length at a time, the work progresses down the load, causing gauling or deep
blade and includes forging the bevel up. scratches. Too little pressure and
no work gets done.
to how the blade contacts the a 40-grit belt. With the right amount of
belt. Generally you are working The flats are difficult to hold pressure, the file will remove light
on one edge of the platen or the freehand and I generally set them shavings and allow you to quickly
other. In one direction, the grind with a sen, or scraper, and finish clean up the rough scraper finish.
will plunge, and in the other, the them with files. At this point on Files wear out. I like to start a
grind will climb. I do not try to the grinder, I am only getting out new project with a fresh file. If
be too aggressive with the grind the scale and major low spots. you can see bright areas on your
until the bevel flats have been When you first start to use the file, the teeth are gone and it isn’t
established and I can feel them. I scraper, it takes a few strokes going to work as quickly as a
do my primary rough grinding on before it starts to get a bite on the fresh file would.
SWORD MAKING ╭ 93
One way to keep the surface free
of scale is to wet the anvil and
hammer during this part of the
forging. The water converts to
steam and quickly blows off the
The author profiles the blade tang. The tip of the sword is profiled. scale
Cut small doors at the top of much extra length is required that, when hardened in oil, the
the drum to insert your blade. to get the entire blade into the point will drop and the blade will
You could also hang rods down quench. curve downward.
from the top as hangers to hold If you quench vertically, then If the same blade were
the blade and minimize sagging you will need a cylinder with quenched in water, the point
while it is heating. not only enough depth, but also would climb and the blade would
The way this forge works is that volume so that the quenchant curve up. The cause of this is
instead of trying to equalized heat doesn’t overheat. You will, of much debated and the process
over a long length and narrow course, need extra quenchant to is quite complex. It is enough to
diameter, the heat equalizes itself fill these containers. know that it will occur and to
over the larger area, giving a anticipate it. This particular blade
nice even heat. The key is to use Clay Coating still curved past straight and I
a small burner. The one I have The blade that I have been had to regrind some of the re-
on my setup can only bring the making will be selectively curve out of it to make it straight.
forge to a maximum of 1,650 hardened by applying a refractory The blade was forged from
degrees Fahrenheit and is capable clay coating to the back, or spine, 1095 high-carbon steel, and for
of running as low as 1,300 F of the edged steel. When the the heat treatment, I brought the
with controllable increments in blade is quenched, the clay will entire blade up to 1,425 F, and
between. slow down the cooling enough soaked it until all the carbides
Once we have our heating to prevent the spine from fully had gone into solution. If the
source, we have to consider the hardening and leave only the edge fire is steady and you watch the
quench tank. If you are going to fully hard. blade carefully, you can see the
quench horizontally, you’ll need I hardened this blade in oil and metal make its transformation to
a tank long enough for the blade, had pre-curved the blade during austenite.
including the tang and tongs. A forging so that it will come The blade will gain color as
dry run with the tongs in place out relatively straight. It is an it heats. As it approaches the
will give you an idea of how interesting effect with long blades temperature of the forge, it
will appear to hang and not temperature before I start forging The Oil Plunge
gain in temperature. During to adapt my eye to the changing The blade is at critical
this stage, shadows will be colors. Finding the decalescence temperature and I quickly
visible on the blade. It is still and recalescense points is one withdraw it from the fire and
gaining temperature, but energy sure way of knowing what my immediately plunge it into the oil.
is required for the carbon to temperatures are. Another way is I am using a commercial quench
move from within the matrix of to check the steel with a magnet. oil called Tough Quench. There
the iron molecule and go into Steel will lose its ability to attract are many possibilities for the
solution. Once this finally occurs a magnet just prior to the critical quench. A vegetable-type oil will
throughout the blade, the steel temperature. work well, especially peanut and
will brighten and be uniform over Once the blade reaches critical Canola oil.
the entire length. temperature and has soaked long I hold the blade in the quench
Bring the blade above critical enough to put all the carbides until it stops bubbling, gently
temperature and then allow it into solution, then it is ready to moving it back and forth. It is
to cool in still air in a darkened quench. I have a pair of special important to enter the quench
space. I have a pipe by the offset tongs that allow me to hold cleanly and not to tip it to one
forge for this purpose. As the the blade by the tang and have side or the other. Doing so will
temperature drops, it will lose the tongs out of the way when I almost guarantee warping. I like
color until it reaches a point dip it into the quench tank. to think of this as the first cut
where it seems to hang, and then, Having a pair of straight tongs the sword will make, and it is the
especially in the thinner sections, will greatly increase the size of moment when it comes alive.
it will appear to visibly brighten the tank required to get the whole After the quenching solution
as the steel drops below critical blade into the quench. It is a has stopped bubbling, I remove
temperature. good idea to do a dry run on your the blade and scrape off the clay.
Because I work in an outside equipment before you get to the The blade is still too warm to
shop, I have to check for critical hardening stage. touch. With gloves on, I sight
SWORD MAKING ╭ 95
are extremely tough, while
the Japanese-style blades are
sometimes left full hard because
the blade has toughness in the
unhardened back. Full-hard edges
will chip and it only makes sense
to draw them down (cool them)
some to increase the toughness.
Sword-length blades will
generally exceed the size of a
normal kitchen oven, so you
will have to prepare before you
The author scrapes the blade spine. harden the blade. Many sword
It’s Time to
Temper
After the blade is hardened, it is
hard, but brittle. The tempering
cycle adds heat back to the
Next, the bevels are scraped.
steel and softens it somewhat,
but more importantly it adds where it will not chip in heavy makers use low-temperature
toughness to the steel, making it use, yet still maintain a good salts for this purpose. Low-
far less brittle. Depending on the edge. temperature salts melt at 350-400
style of sword, you will want to Some European swords are F and become liquid capable
draw the hardness to the point drawn to spring temper and of taking heats well in excess
SWORD MAKING ╭ 97
I set the oven at 450 F and
preheat it while I am hardening
the blade. After hardening, I will
pop it in the oven for a one-hour
draw. I remove the blade and let
it cool to room temperature and
then run another one-hour draw.
I can adjust the temperature if
I find, after checking the blade
with a file, that it is too hard. The
second draw is important because
with all steels there will be some
retained austenite that has not The author’s quenching tongs are bent so that the quenching tank doesn’t
converted to martensite. This have to be nearly as long as would be necessary if straight tongs were used.
retained austenite will change
to fresh martensite during the help but not eliminate warping. surface of the blade and weaken
tempering and cooling process, There are several ways you it. Also, if the blade has been
and the second draw will temper can correct warping after the thoroughly hardened, it should
that martensite. It would not blade has been heat treated. If just spring back or break after
hurt to repeat for a third cycle, the blade has been selectively flexing.
but it is not necessary. hardened using clay on the back,
The times and temperatures
will vary depending on the type
you can often correct the warp
by hammering the blade using a
Finishing the
of steel used and it is a good round-faced hammer. Work over Blade
practice to make smaller test the hardy hole or over a plate Once the blade is straight
blades to determine the best with a hole in it. and the profile is correct, you
combination for what you are If the blade has been can begin to finish the blade. I
trying to make. I am a firm thoroughly hardened, then usually go back to the grinders
believer in testing your work. I you can use heat to correct the to rough in the flats and adjust
routinely take blades through warped section. The Japanese the profile. It is helpful to reduce
progressively more demanding smiths often used a heated the speed of the grinder at this
series of tests all the way to copper block for this purpose, point to minimize the chance
destruction. If you do this but an acetylene torch will work. of overheating the blade. I work
consistently, you will know what Heat a small area on the outside bare handed so I can feel the heat
to expect from your steel and of the curve, being careful not to build up and quench the blade as
what your blades are capable of draw (or reduce) the temper soon as it begins to get warm. I
doing. on the edge, until it just sizzles start with a 40-grit belt, making
water, and then quench the blade. sure to use fresh belts for all
SWORD MAKING ╭ 99
A close-up of the sword tip depicts
its geometry. Below the blade is a
Don Fogg takes a stone to the blade. finishing stone in a rinsing solution.
keep the surface from scratching neoprene glued to one side. This black and the pearlite on the back
when I flip it over to do the other block is impervious to water and will etch gray.
side. gives me two different densities I go immediate back to the
After all of the underlying with which to work. rinse water and thoroughly rinse
scratches have been removed, After I have a good, 1,000-grit the blade. I spritz the blade with
I switch to 400-grit paper on finish on the blade, I wipe the ammonia and scrub it down
the sanding bar and, going in grease off the blade and give it with a wet paper towel. Rinse
the opposite direction, proceed a light etch in ferric chloride. I and repeat, this time using
to sand out all of the 180-grit made up a tube for the ferric out baking soda on the paper towel.
scratches. of PVC pipe and it is especially Rinse and then wipe the blade
The adhesive-back rolls are useful for the long blades. completely dry.
available up to 400 grit, and It is extremely important to The blade at this point will
then you have to switch to sheet completely degrease the blade. have a light surface oxide. I move
abrasives. You can use spray Also, you should have a container back to the bench and remove the
adhesive to stick the paper to the of clean water that is deep loose oxides with a cotton ball
bar, but it is messy and I find it enough in which to immerse and pumice. I have been using 2F
more convenient to cut the paper the entire blade. Water should fine pumice from a woodworkers
into strips and wrap them around sheet over the entire surface of supply store. You can either use it
a sanding block. the blade. If there are any grease dry or spray the blade down with
After the 400-grit paper, I spots on the blade, clean the WD40 and scrub off all the loose
graduate to 500-, 800- and 1,000- spots until they are gone. oxides.
grit paper. The 1,000-grit sanding I dunk the entire blade in the The finish on the blade will be
is done lengthwise on the blade ferric chloride for a short count dull at this point, but the hamon
using a block with hard neoprene. and then remove it to see if there (temper line) will show clearly. I
The type of backing you use with are any areas that still need to use 2,000-grit paper wrapped over
the abrasive will greatly affect be degreased. If it is clean, then the block with the neoprene side
the finish on the metal. I have I dunk the blade for a 20-second down and pull the paper over the
many sanding blocks that I have count or until the hardened entire length of the blade in one
fashioned. My primary block is area turns black. The tempered smooth motion. For each pass, I
cut from .5-inch Corian with hard martensite on the edge will etch change to a fresh section of paper.
he Swirl-Free
Sword
When you have a nice, swirl-
free, 2,000-grit finish on the
blade, it will have a soft, matte
look. Again, we go back to the
etch, cleaning and degreasing the
blade thoroughly and then doing
another 20-second dunk in ferric
chloride. The author uses the sanding bar to further finish the blade.
The first etch serves as a how the paper cuts. By using the
chemical abrasion, in effect foam backing, you can apply light
eroding the tops of the prior pressure to the paper and it will
sanding marks. The 2,000-grit not leave hard, swirled stop-and-
finish abrades that down even start marks. The finish mimics
finer and leaves a smooth, that which was achieved using
uniform surface. When the blade traditional finger stones.
comes out of the second etch, It is helpful to apply a fluid to
you follow the same procedure, the blade during this process.
making sure that it is completely I will sometimes use Liquid
rinsed and neutralized. This is a Wrench, but because of the
good-looking finish on the blade, petrochemical aspect of the
all the details are visible in a good solution, I prefer to apply soapy
light and it is relatively easy to distilled water. I cut the foam-
maintain. backed, 2,000-grit paper into
You can take the polish to strips 3/8-to-1/2-inches wide each,
another level by continuing to and then cut off 1/2-inch-long
work on the finish. This time we sections. I rub the gritty sides of
will want to distinguish the two the smaller pieces against each
zones on the blade by polishing other to take the bite out of the
the area above the hamon and paper.
leaving the hard area frosted. With a small piece of sandpaper
To polish it, I prepare 2,000-grit under my thumb, I begin to
paper by sticking it to 1/8-inch, lightly sand the whole blade, The author mounts abrasive paper
sticky foam sheets. paying more attention the area to sanding bars that are roughly
I said earlier that the backing above the hamon than below 18 inches long and have handles
will make a big difference in it. The softer steel will polish on both ends.
The author applies a sponge backing The author polishes the blade with In the final polishing step, the
on 2,000-grit sandpaper for the next a 2,000-grit thumb pad. author rubs the blade with pumice
step in finishing the sword blade. on a cotton pad.
more than the harder sections. this purpose. I don’t recommend This process is time consuming
Continue to polish until the oxide diamond paste abrasives because and is only finished when you
matte has been polished away. they tend to cut both hard and decide the blade finish looks as
Finishing is a matter of taste and soft equally, and will not produce good as you can make it. I usually
what you should be shooting good results. I rub out the blade stop before the final finish to
for is getting the best look and by putting the paste on a cotton make the habaki [handle charm]
not trying to mimic a traditional pad, replenishing the pad with and fittings for the handle.
finish. After you have finished the paste when it darkens and Whenever you stop for the day,
the blade with the 2,000-grit is not as fluid. Simichrome will or an extended period of time, oil
paper, you can proceed with paste leave a waxy residue on the blade the blade to prevent rust. While
abrasives. that can be cleaned up with I am working on the fittings, I
Simichrome is a fine polish for pumice on a cotton ball. tape the blade with masking tape
W
ith training in jewelry, sculpture and metal
smithing, my method of knifemaking tends to
be a bit “old school.” My education from the
Rhode Island School of Design instilled precision, innovation
and problem solving, among other things. Yet, the main
focus was in the education, knowledge and understanding
of the age-old methods of complete hand fabrication. My
working methodology is in many ways an over-the-top style
Knifemaker John Lewis Jensen
of doing things, and that is how people view my work.
was trained in jewelry, sculpture
and metal smithing at the Rhode
Island School of Design and says
his education instilled precision,
innovation, problem solving and
age-old methods of complete hand
fabrication.
and dimension in an unending actually Part Two of the overall tools, equipment and machines
number of combinations, choices documentation of the Alchemy are in proper working order. They
and treatments. knife project. should be well oiled, have new,
Aside from working closely This is a complex bolster sharp cutting blades and grinding
with several damascus smiths, because there are no straight belts. Work on clean, flat surfaces.
I also forge and use my own lines and it doesn’t simply follow Most importantly for the sake of
damascus steel, as I did here for the outside profile of the knife. precision is that work surfaces
the blade of this knife, The sequence and construction are perfectly square in relation to
Overall, fixed blades have of these bolsters is a microcosm band-saw blades, grinding belts
always been my first true love. of the techniques and issues you and drill-press chucks.
They give me a much larger would face in most aspects of
canvas on which to work, and knifemaking, so what you learn Materials
that, in turn, gives me a larger here can take you much further The following is a list of tools
palette from which to draw. With than just this specific application. and materials that I used to
fixed blades, I’m not constrained create the bolsters of Alchemy.
by size, design or mechanical Safety In order of appearance, they are:
movements. While all of my It is important to take a a 4-inch-by-36-inch belt grinder;
knives are made to the same moment and remember safety Scotch brand permanent double-
exacting standards as more equipment. On this particular stick tape; a vise; an X-Acto blade;
traditional “using” blades, and project, as with all aspects of Crazy Glue; a metal-cutting band
therefore are fully functional, I knifemaking, eye protection is saw and metal-cutting blade; a
want my knives to be viewed as essential. You might also want metal square; Burr King or Bador
sculpture suitable for display. to consider hearing protection, belt grinder with flat platen and
Even though my construction especially when using the band table attachment; oscillating
techniques are being applied to a saw. A band saw can make a spindle sander (laminate top
fixed blade in this case, they can high-pitched, ear-damaging preferred because metal tabletops
also be adapted to the making of whine, particularly when cutting will scratch up your materials
folders. titanium. A respirator can come surfaces more); Dykem steel
My inclusion here in this in handy depending on how bluing layout fluid; measuring
book, specifically on bolster sensitive you are to dust, and calipers; small clamps; scribe;
construction, is just one part of a in particular here when using center punch; rawhide or plastic
much larger educational project. cutting fluid. It certainly is a mallet; drill press; #50 drill bits;
The construction of the overall good idea to use these lines of scraper; nail polish remover
core frame of this knife can be protection at all times. or acetone; small riffling file;
viewed on my website, www. Another thing to check into number punch set; 1-inch-by-2-
jensenknives.com, under the before starting is the condition inch-by-3-inch precision blocks;
“Process” section. This chapter is of your tools. Make sure your hand tap wrench; 2-56 taps; 320-
red) and a not-so-sticky version the bolster will give the knife not to melt the glue and tape.
(color coded blue). This can be a dynamic and dimensional Until we get screws in place, it
confusing because the overall appearance. It is also one more is important that the layers stay
color of both packages is yellow layer to work with a file and/or aligned.
plaid. Make sure you use the red anodize. I have been using this After making sure the band
version. The blue version will idea for a while; it’s more work, saw and worktable are square, I
not hold up through the bolster- but adds a nice touch, something carefully cut the bolster to rough
making process and is likely to you don’t otherwise see on knives. shape, just outside of the design
fail to hold the pieces together in I have carefully double-stick line. I try to cut as close as I can
their proper places. taped all four bolster layers to the line, but still leave myself a
together and am now giving the little room for cleanup. The band
Layered Bolsters assembly a good squeeze in a vise saw makes some rather rough
In the accompanying photo, to secure everything in place. marks along the newly cut edges.
you can see the two Timascus I trim the excess tape from the You want to give yourself
pieces stacked and taped. sides with an X-Acto blade. This enough room to grind out those
Underneath this you’ll discern excess tape will get in the way marks without grinding into your
two more rectangles of material. otherwise, catch on work surfaces profile. If you cut too close to
These additional pieces are .0035- and clog up with grit when I the line, by the time you’re done
inch-thick rectangles of titanium start cutting. I suggest getting in finish-grinding the saw marks,
that I have pre-cut. They are also the habit of working cleanly and the bolster could be undersize.
going to be a part of the bolsters, orderly. It will save unforeseen The band saw does not cut
as a sort of an under-liner of the headaches. curves. You can tweak the blade
Timascus. I felt the Timascus I also run a bead of Crazy Glue a bit, but you’ll have to take off
thickness was a bit too thin in along the edges of the assembly large chunks of material at a time
regards to the proportions of the to help secure everything in from in the curvy areas. Yes, lots
rest of the knife. place and keep parts from of material and money end up on
The additional bolster layer will moving and shifting as I start the floor!
thicken things up a bit, as well the initial work. It is important On the grinder, using the back
as give another visual element not to overstress or overheat the platen with table accessory,
to the overall design of the stacked layers during this critical clean up the convex areas of the
knife. Another layer underneath stage of construction. Be careful material stack only. Before doing
he Aggressive
Grit
You can also get several
different grits of sanding sleeves.
Start with the most aggressive
grit sleeve to quickly erase the
band-saw-blade marks. Again,
this is a woodworking machine,
so it does not have a lot of natural
The author has carefully double-stick taped all four bolster layers together, aggression. Compensate for this
giving the assembly a good squeeze in a vise to secure everything in place. by using the most aggressive
this, you should knock off any profile with the rest of the knife. grit sleeves. As you get closer
rough burs created by the band Blend those later after you know to a finished profile, change
saw on the bottom side of the proper placement of the bolsters incrementally to the smoother
material stack, using either a on the knife. grit sanding sleeves.
fine file or by running the stack Now it’s time to clean up In the accompanying photo,
across 320-grit sandpaper on a the concave areas with an you can see the difference
flat surface. The material stack oscillating spindle sander. This between the now-smooth areas
should rest flat on the table, thus is traditionally a woodworking that were finished up using the
assuring square grinding. tool, but it works great for sanding machine, and the still-
There are two areas along the knifemaking and keeps all parts rough, band-saw-cut areas. The
profile to stay away from for the at precise 90-degree angles small, hooked area of the bolster,
moment, still leaving them rough, in relation to each other. I as well as the tip in front, will be
and therefore a bit oversized. recommend finding an oscillating cleaned up later with a different
These are the areas—shown with spindle sander with a laminate tool ideal for tighter areas.
arrows in the accompanying top, as opposed to a metal top. Apply Dykem steel bluing
photo—that share the outside The laminate top will cause fewer layout fluid to the general area on
The front-top and bottom bolsters are screwed to the handle core. on the inside. To ensure proper
alignment, you do not want the
ends of the screws touching in
the middle. Screws meeting in
the middle would keep you from
getting the proper tension on
the parts and prevent the screw
heads from lying tight and flush
against the outside surfaces of the
bolsters.
Angled screw heads leave
small gaps between layers, so the
screws should fully engage the
Using two clamps, the bottom bolster is attached to the frame. Timascus and titanium under-
liner, the knife frame liners
The rear bolster is screwed back The top of the bolster is blended, or ground flat, even with the top of the
onto the frame so that both sides frame.
are attached to the knife.
Switch to the
Spindle Sander
Switch to the spindle sander
now to blend the bottom-rear of With a file machine, the author is able to finish the inside of the small curl
the bolster to the frame. Set up on top of the bolster.
the assembly on two precision
blocks. In the accompanying
photo, you can see the main body
of the knife is resting primarily
on one block. The second block
lies beneath only a bit of the liner
that flares out from under the
front bolster. There is just enough
of the liner available to come in
contact with the block.
Keep an eye on that forward
block to make sure it doesn’t The bolsters are realigned and reassembled.
slip out from under its proper
location when moving the
assembly around the table or
from the vibration of the running
machine. It is important that
the knife rests evenly on the two
blocks to ensure level flatness,
and therefore square, precise
grinding.
The top area of the bolster
still needs a little work. You will Drill bit shanks help line up the layers of the bolsters.
need to smooth the inside radii
of the top little curl. The rough
area along the bottom-rear of the
bolster is now nicely blended to
the handle frame. However, as
the bolster only shares a small
section of the profile in common
with the overall outside profile
of the knife, there is a slight
discrepancy where the bolster
and handle frame split off in two The bolster assembly is clamped in a fixed position and the holes are
directions. tapped one more time to ensure proper threading.
With a fine sanding belt on the The author used a rotary file on his The last bolster holes are drilled.
flat platen and table assembly of a drill press to remove excess bolster
Burr King grinder, a bump on the material. There is a light “facet,” which
bolster is smoothed. occurs where two concave objects
meet. You will have to remove
the bolsters, reassemble them,
and just ever so slightly remove
the facet, blending the curves of
the bolster. But before you get to
that, leave the assembly together
so that you can get into the top
little curl.
It’s best to work on a file
machine because it accepts
several sizes of files, each of
which is mounted in a chuck
The spindle sander works well to under the table. There is a small
smooth the transition area between The bolster stack is once again hole in the table for each file to
two concave curves. disassembled and de-burred. pass through. When turned on,
The width of the pin is decreased so it doesn’t hit the sides of the bezel.
remove material quickly. But be the two last bolster holes , and
careful not to move the grinding disassemble and de-bur the
bit too high or too low. bolster stack.
The bolster stack will once Now you can screw the bolsters
again be disassembled and de- down to your frame.
burred. After repositioning it
in the usual manner, aligning it
and re-tapping it, the front-side
Geting a
bolster only will be reassembled Handle On It
onto the frame. Now that the This is the majority of the
The author placed a screw through entire bolster is shaped and construction of the bolsters.
one of the countersunk holes on From here, you will be adding on
finished, apply Dykem layout
the bolster and through the bolster
fluid on the top of the bolster the rest of the handle materials,
liner.
where the rest of the screws will much in the same fashion as
the tips so that they are flush with be placed. Ballpark the screw the bolsters. Once all the handle
each other, and then finish out placement points by sight and components are in place, they
the front curved area. mark the north/south placement will be contoured to make
Set up a rotary file in a drill with a scribe, measuring the for a nice rounded and more
press, making sure that the length distance from the top with the comfortable handle.
of cutting area on the rotary file calipers. I will most likely leave the
fully covers the area needed to be Remove bolster from the frame. Timascus bolsters at an 800-
ground. It is important that the Then reassemble the bolsters as a grit finish; this is fine and
length of grinding area on the stack, re-aligning and re-tapping. lustrous without being too
rotary file goes past the bottom Deeply scribe in crosshairs bright. Additional polishing
of the assembly to ensure even the drill-hole placement based of the Timascus could result
contact and, therefore, even on the previous marks and in the material being too loud,
grinding of this area. Work on a measurements. especially after anodizing it.
precision block. You can move Punch a small hole on the I hope that you have been able
the rotary file up and down a little crosshairs of the re-assembled to easily follow along, enjoy the
by engaging the depth handle bolster stack for the drilling of process, and most importantly,
on the drill press. This will help the final two screw holes , drill learn a lot!
E
ver since seeing my first cowboy and Indian movie, In the 1960s I learned
blacksmithing at a trade school in
I have been fascinated by tomahawks, as were most
Hungary. I was one of the lucky
kids back in those days. The first time I saw an Indian ones who had the opportunity
tomahawk in person was when a Wild West show came to to learn from more than one
master of the trade. My first
my small town.
master taught me how to make
knives, cleavers and hatchets.
After learning to fashion those
tools, I had the chance to fulfill
my lifelong dream of making a
tomahawk.
I am still fascinated by
tomahawks and their history.
Though most of the “hawks” I
now make are one-of-a- kind,
presentation-quality pieces, they
are all fully hardened, balanced,
he Tomahawk The author uses a wooden template as a guide when forging the head to
shape.
Template
I used a wooden template
as a guide while forging the
tomahawk head to shape. Here
again, after removing the hawk
head from the hot box, I will
compare its size and shape
with the template to make sure
everything is in order.
Checking for
Proper Angles of
the Head and Eye
Before I go any further, I will
The illustration shows how to check the angles of the eye section and blade
double-check all the angles of the
of the tomahawk using a right angle and a precision block.
head. As mentioned earlier, the
angles are crucial.
The accompanying picture kilter, I could still correct them grinding off the scale that
shows how to check the angles of by putting the tomahawk head developed during the forging
the eye and blade sections using back into the forge to make process. As I take the scale off
a right angle and a precision the necessary adjustments. the billet, I begin grinding the
block. I think, for me, the angles Unfortunately, if any corrections contour of the tomahawk head,
on the tomahawk shown in the are needed at this point, then the being careful to grind evenly on
accompanying photo are as close entire normalizing and annealing both sides.
as can be achieved in the forge. process must be repeated. I pay particular attention to
If any of the angles were off If all angles are true, I start the angles and contour of the
Shown is the selected piece of wood for the haft and various sizes of drill bits.
Diamond-Shaped
Silver Overlays
To make the two silver
diamonds that will be overlaid
on the eye of the head, I cut the
diamond shapes from a 16-gauge
The head is finally shaped.
silver sheet and file the edges
smooth. I determine where the
diamonds will be placed on the
eye section and drill two small
holes for the eventual pinning
of the diamonds to the head. I
drill the holes through the silver
diamond and into the head.
I also make the pins from silver
and then set aside the diamonds
and the pins in a safe place.
Carving Scrolls
into the Hat After the last tempering cycle, the head should be a beautiful, uniform
I use a Foredom brand air
spring-steel-blue color.
pencil grinder to carve the
pattern into the wood. Most of the burrs I use are carbide brand Danish oil and wait at
people are more familiar with because they last much longer least six hours before again using
Foredom flex shaft grinders that than other high-carbon steel triple-zero steel wool to buff the
run off electric and are often used burrs. I also use diamond burrs haft to a nice hand-rubbed finish.
by jewelers. This is not what I for cleanup.
use for carving; I only use air- Once the carving is complete, I he Smoke Plug
powered pencil grinders, and I sand the haft with 400-grit paper The smoke plug is inserted into
generally use three grinders of to get rid of the loose fibers and smoke hole on the fore end of
different speeds—a 100,000 rpm prepare the wood for stain. I the haft and is removed when the
grinder, a 60,000 rpm grinder and always sand in the same direction smoke hole needs cleaning.
a 30,000 rpm grinder. Each speed as the wood grain. Then, after Traditionally, smoke plugs
excels at a different application. wiping away any sawdust, I apply were fashioned from wood or
The air-powered tools run cool all the first coat of stain and allow antler, but for this piece I chose
day and the hose is more flexible the haft to dry overnight. a damascus smoke plug to match
than the flex shaft equivalents, I sand the stained haft, again the tomahawk head. I forged a
and air-powered pencil grinders removing any loose fibers 1/2-inch-round by 2 1/2-inch-long
seem to be much easier on my brought up by the stain. I repeat damascus billet. Then, with files,
hands. the process two more times. I fashioned it into a 3/8-inch ball
The carving is done using a After applying the last stain, I use with a 1 1/4-inch tapered stem. I
1/16-inch, round-ball carbide 600-grit sandpaper followed by filed the stem into a wood screw
burr. Burrs are available in triple-zero steel wool to bring out so that there is less of a chance
several sizes and shapes. Most a little luster. I then apply Watco that the smoke plug will be lost.
I
t has been 30 years since I first picked up a bar of steel
and applied it to a moving abrasive belt in hopes of
ending up with something that resembled a knife blade.
I don’t remember that first knife, but I remember the feeling
of fascination and satisfaction that accompanied the
process of grinding the blade.
R.J. Martin’s Rampage fixed blade features a radical grind. The popularity instruction was not possible for
of this grind has led to two successful folder designs, and the author plans me.
to make a longer version of the fixed blade in the near future. It just goes to Fortunately, there were books
show what can happen when you push the envelope in blade grinding. and I read every one I could
find. I studied the pictures—they
The magical process of of knife making was still in were most helpful, as the actual
transforming a rectangular its infancy. There were only a process of grinding is not an easy
bar of steel into an edged tool handful of knifemakers, none thing to describe. I am indebted
by grinding away what doesn’t of whom lived near me. If there to David Boye and Robert W.
belong—that is the essence of had been some, it wouldn’t have Loveless because these two men
knife making. mattered much because I couldn’t penned the words and provided
When I was a high school kid drive yet! So, the possibility the pictures for the book “How to
in the 1970’s, I started making of visiting a knifemaker and Make Knives” that started me on
knives. Back then, the field learning by watching or by my way.
Proiling a Chisel-
Ground Blade
I’m starting with a chisel
grind for a few reasons. The
chisel grind is a one-sided grind,
which eliminates the problem of
symmetry. This is a big help for
the beginner, allowing him or her
It’s a simple matter of working repeatedly from the handle to the tip,
to concentrate on one bevel. The
pressing lightly on the belt and keeping the blade blank moving until you
majority of my Japanese-style see the scribe line disappear. Then, move on to the tip bevel.
knives are chisel ground.
There is a choice of edge styles
that comes with a chisel grind.
The “standard edge” exhibits a
blade that is ground down to, say,
.02 inch, and a small, secondary
bevel continues from that point,
making up the cutting edge. The
bevel of a “zero grind,” on the
other hand, is reduced to “zero
thickness,” and thus, becomes
the cutting edge. While the “zero
grind” is more complicated to
grind, because the entire bevel The author rounds both corners of the butt end of the handle.
I freehand scribe a line that For now, I just want to get most you want to brace the work well,
connects the plunge to the top of the material off, so, I leave the and for safety purposes, ease it
grind line, just for reference. The tip about 0.05-inch thick, with into the belt. After a pass or two,
intended blade grind is now fully the grind running about one-third the tip bevel looks like the one
defined on the blade blank. of the way up the blank. Note in illustrated in the accompanying
Using the same, worn 60-grit the accompanying photo how photo. Cool the tip off in your
belt I profiled with, I rough in I support the back of the blade water bucket before proceeding.
the tip grind. This grind will be on the edge of the work rest and With a new, 60-grit belt in place
completed after heat treat, using apply pressure with my right on the 10-inch wheel, it’s time
a slack belt to produce the convex thumb. to rough in the primary bevel.
bevel that adds both strength and Whenever you put the tip of a Remember, I plan to finish the
style to the finished knife. knife against the belt in this way, bevel on the 6 x 48 flat sander, so
As the author pulls the blade from right to left, he needs the blank to move There is always a bit more pressure
freely across the face of the belt. To achieve this, his left hand must be on the left side of the belt than the
slightly forward of his right hand. Otherwise the belt will dig into the steel right.
and hang up, keeping him from completing the pass.
The primary blade bevel is uniform and disappears right at the edge of the knife.
grit off a new belt before getting of the work rest, changing the
any real use out of it. way the bevel would contact the
I install a new 3M 967 60- wheel. This could have a bad
grit belt and begin grinding the effect on the grind line!
primary bevels. When grinding I use the work rest and the
a double-hollow-ground blade, I work rest support bar to brace
like to start on the left side of the my fingers, generally the third,
blade because I’m right handed. fourth and pinkie fingers of
Grinding this side is easier for whichever hand is holding the
me because my right hand is tip of the blade. This leaves my
“smarter” than my left. thumb and index finger to hold Notice how the author’s right hand
the blade blank. is forward of his left hand at the
It’s easier for me to establish
start of the grinding pass.
a nice grind line on this side, For the most part, my other
and by the time I’m ready to hand is holding the handle of
switch over and grind the right- the knife and is responsible for
hand bevel, I’m into the swing of pulling the blade sideways during
the grind and things tend to go the grinding pass. My thumbs are
smoothly. responsible for pressing the blank
I hollow grind with a work rest, into the belt.
although I almost never use the
work rest to support the spine
of the blade. In the case of the
he Hands Work
Manta Ray, the small protrusion in Unison
on top of the handle would cause The hands must work in unison
problems if it contacted the during a grinding pass. Having Illustrated here is how the author’s
work rest. As I would progress the machine at the correct height hands have changed position by
towards the tip of the blade, that really assists hand motions. I the time he reaches the tip of the
protrusion would fall off the side like to have the top of my work blade.
It has been a long day, but, at eventually, run up the full length
this moment I am in the zone and of the tang. If I can start off with
there is nothing in my head but the trough centered, I’ll have an
the sound of the grinder and the easy time of things later.
belief that the grind is going to be I continue to push the trough
perfect … nirvana up the tang, keeping the bottom
of it straight and ensuring it is
Rick Dunkerley,
POB 582,
Seeley Lake, MT 59868;
phone: 406-677-5496;
email: natv2mt@blackfoot.net
Allen Elishewitz,
POB 3059,
Canyon Lake, TX 78133;
phone: 830-899-5356;
email: allen@elishewitzknives.com
Don Fogg,
40 Alma Rd.,
Jasper, AL 35501-8813;
phone: 205-483-0822;
email: dfogg@dfoggknives.com
Wayne Goddard,
473 Durham Ave.,
Eugene, OR 97404;
phone: 541-689-8098;
email: wgoddard44@comcast.net
The book editor and contributors are busy, so please be patient in awaiting a response if leaving a message,
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US $24.99
BGKFM (CAN $29.99)
ISBN-13: 978-0-89689-240-8
ISBN-10: 0-89689-240-9
52699
UPC
EAN