Angelo Chek

Pattern by
Pink Mouse Boutique
Grace
COPYRIGHT: This pattern is intended for PERSONAL USE only. You may not sell or share the pattern in
any form, or distribute it (full or partially), or post it on the Internet, or translate it into other languages.
You may sell the finished products created from this pattern. Any items for sale must state in the item
description that they are based on ‘PinkMouseBoutique’ pattern and also include a link to my website
(www.etsy.com/shop/PinkMouseBoutique).
The items you sell based on this pattern must feature only your own photographs. You do not have
permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS PATTERN YOU MAY CONTACT ME AT:
pinkmouseboutique@gmail.com
SPECIAL NOTE:
In case you did not buy this pattern from Pink Mouse Boutique on Etsy, Ravelry, or Amigurumi Patterns
(dot) net, you are then using a stolen pattern. It will really help me a lot if you contact me in the email
above when you think you got this pattern from a suspicious source.
Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 1|Page

MATERIALS: ABBREVIATIONS:
1. Thread: MR – magic ring
a. DMC Baroque size 10, ecru – doll
Ch – chain
b. DMC Baroque size 10, white – dress and shoes
c. Aunt Lydia’s size 10, light brown – hair St(es) – stitch(es)
d. DMC metallic floss – dress details Sl st – slip stitch

e. Mohair yarn – wings Sc – single crochet
f. Lizbeth size 80*, black and white - eyes
Fsc – foundation single crochet
2. Crochet hooks:
a. Clover Amour, 1.50 mm – doll, dress, hair, and wings Dec – decrease (invisible)
b. Clover Amour, 0.60 mm – eyes Inc – increase

3. Water soluble fabric marker (Optional)
FLO – front loop only
4. Stuffing
BLO – back loop only
5. Glue gun and/or clear tacky glue
6. Pliers (optional but very helpful when sewing the eyes and hair)
7. Cotton swab and blush
*If you can’t find this type of thread, use DMC cotton perle 12 or DMC single strand floss with a 1 mm
hook and follow the instructions for the second type eyes (page 12).
HELPFUL TUTORIALS:
a. Invisible decrease:
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/amigurumi-help/invisible-decrease/#right
b. Finishing amigurumi:
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/the-ultimate-finish-for-amigurumi/
c. Securing stitches:
http://www.planetjune.com/blog/amigurumi-faces-secure-stitching/
d. Crochet in back bump of chain
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igwKXFP89zs
e. Bullion embroidery stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iC4KaflsdE
f. Changing color
https://www.planetjune.com/blog/amigurumi-help/changing-colour/

PART 1: Head and Body
Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Round 1: with ecru 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts
Round 2: 8 inc – 16 sts
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 8 – 24 sts
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 – 32 sts
Rounds 7 – 16: sc around – 48 sts (10 rounds)
Round 17: (4 sc, dec) x 8 – 40 sts
Start stuffing the head.
Round 20: (sc, dec) x 8 – 16 sts
Stuff more before finishing Round 21. Make sure the head is stuffed well.
IMPORTANT: The head needs to be stuffed enough so it has a nice round shape (Picture 1.1) but not so
much that you cannot make indentations for the eyes. A good test is to push the head with your thumbs
(use both; I was holding the camera with one hand) at about the place where you’d place the eyes later (Picture
1.2). If you can make the indentations and the head has a nice shape still (it does not become flat), then you
have enough stuffing. But if you cannot make the indentations (they will not stay but we will define them better
while we sew the eyes later), then you need to remove some of the stuffing.
Round 21: 8 dec – 8 sts
1.1
Round 22: 8 sc around – 8 sts 1.2
Change color - white

Round 21: 8 dec – 8 sts
Round 22: 8 sc around – 8 sts
In Round 26, we will start the body and leave space for the arms.
Round 26: 1 sc in 5 sts; insert hook in same st as last sc and, skipping 6 sts, through the 7th st on the front
side of the body, 1 sc (first armhole created)
1 sc in 9 sts; insert hook in same st as last sc and, skipping 6 sts, through the 7th st on the back side of the
body, 1 sc (second armhole created), 1 sc in 4 sts
After Round 26, you should have 20 stitches for the body (10 in the front and 10 in the back) and 6 empty
stitches on either side of the body for arms.
1.3 1.4
1.5 1.6

Rounds 27 - 28: sc around – 20 sts (2 rounds)
Round 29: in BLO (4 sc, inc) x 4 – 24 sts
Round 30: in both loops sc around – 24 sts
Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.
Stuff the neck and body well. NOTE: Once the hair is done too, the head will be heavy. Make sure the neck and
body are firmly stuffed so they can support the weight of the head.
Leave 8 stitches on each side for legs and mark the middle 8 stitches (4 in the front and 4 in the back) with
thread. Make sure the spaces you are leaving for legs, align with the spaces you left earlier for the arms.
Refer to the pictures below.
1.7 1.8
PART 2: Legs and Arms
The legs are crocheted in continuous rounds.

Begin legs at the back (where you joined rounds).
LEG 1:
Join ecru thread in the 2nd stitch from the thread marking the middle stitches. Refer to Picture 2.1.
1 sc in same st where you joined thread (counts as first st of round).
Round 1: 1 sc in 6 sts, insert hook in same st as last sc and skipping 16 sts, in the st on the other side, 1 sc
(Refer to Pictures 2.2 and 2.3) – 8 sts
Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 7 sts
Pink Mouse
Fasten off.Boutique, 2020 5|Page
LEG 2:
Join green thread in the 2nd stitch from the thread marking the middle stitches.
2.1 2.2 2.3

Round 8: sc in each st, when you get to the three front middle sts 3 inc, sc until the end of round – 11 sts
Round 9: sc in each st, when you get to the three front middle sts 3 inc, sc until the end of round – 14 sts
Round 10: sc around – 14 sts
Stuff the legs. Stuff the feet before finishing Round 11.
Round 11: 8 dec (you are doing an extra dec in this round) – 6 sts
Fasten off.
LEG 2:
Join ecru thread in the 2nd stitch from the thread marking the middle stitches.
1 sc in same st where you joined thread (counts as first st of round).
Round 1: 1 sc in next st, insert hook in same st as last sc and skipping 8 sts, in the st on the other side, 1 sc
in next 6 sts – 8 sts
Continue following the instructions for Leg 1. 2.4
Fasten off.
With the whip stitch, sew the 8 stitches in the middle.

Finish off the legs and secure the stitches.

ARMS (make 2)
The arms are not stuffed. Crochet tightly.
2.5
OPTIONAL: Insert wire to make the arms posable.
Refer to Picture 2.5 below. I bent the ends, so they
don’t poke out of the stitches. You may even wrap
masking tape around. If you are using wire, it needs
to reach the first round of the legs when the end is
bent.
Join white thread in any of the 6 sts you left earlier
for arms. I like to start at the back of the doll.
2.6
Round 1: (see note below) sc around – 6 sts
* In Round 1, join the back and front of the doll the
same way you did the arm holes in Round 26 and the
legs. Insert the hook through the same st as last sc and
then through the st on the other side of the body. Refer
to Picture 2.6.
Change color – ecru
Rounds 10 – 11: sc around – 6 sts (2 rounds) 2.7
Fasten off and secure the stitches.

PART 3: Dress
Join white thread at the back in the FLO of Round 28.

Round 1: 1 sc in same st you joined, 1 sc in 3 sts, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 3; sl st to join and ch 1 – 24 sts
Round 2: (5 sc, inc) x 4; sl st to join and ch 1 – 28 sts
Round 3: sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 28 sts
Rounds 9 – 10: sc around; sl st to join and ch 1 – 44 sts (2 rounds)
Round 14: sc around – 48 sts
*Add another round or two if the dress seems too short.
Change color – silver metallic thread (Lizbeth 20 metallic or three strands DMC metallic floss)
Continue with a 1.5 mm crochet hook.
Round 15: sl st around
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
3.1

Lavender Embroidery
Use two strands DMC metallic floss for the 3.2
embroidery.
Before starting your lavender embroidery, draw a basic
outline of where you would like your flowers to be.
Refer to Picture 3.2.
*Wet the dress to wash the marker as soon as you finish your
embroidery. If it stays too long, you will not be able to wash it
off.
The largest stem I drew (middle one), takes 10 rounds.
The other two are slightly shorter. The left one is 5
rounds at an angle and the right one is only 3 rounds,
3.3
but it starts on the third round of the middle stem.
I used the back stitch to make the stem. Begin at the
top of the left stem and using the back stitch, go down
the dress at an angle for 5 rounds. Once you get to the
bottom (it should be right above the silver edge of the
dress), start working on the middle stem going up the
dress for about 10 rounds. I used the same thread
without breaking it.
Once finished, weave in the thread going down the
middle stem on the inside of the dress until you are at
the base of where the right stem should begin. Go three
rounds up at an angle.
3.4
Once you finish the stems, sew three sets of leaves at
the bottom going up at an angle for 1 to 2 rounds. I
sewed three times for each leaf to make them thicker.
Once you finish the stems and leaves, it is time to make
the flowers. They are very simple, and you can make as
many as you would like. Just use any sewing stitch you
are comfortable with and sew once for each flower.
Begin at the stem and go up one round at an angle.
Once finished, carefully use hot glue to glue the ends
inside the dress.

Bow
Use Lizbeth 20 silver metallic thread (or 3 strands of DMC metallic floss) and a 1.5 mm hook. Leave a long
beginning tail.
Ch 3 in a mr, 4 trbl, ch 3 and sl st into the ring, ch 3 and 4 trbl, ch 3 and sl st
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Pull ring tight to close.
Wrap the beginning tail around the middle a few times.
Wrap the end tail around the middle a few times in the opposite direction of the beginning tail.
Tie a knot at the back and set aside.
3.5
PART 4: Face
NOTE: Make sure to sew the eyes in place before attaching the hair. The eyes will serve as a guide for where to place
the hair.
EYES OPTION 1
If you have Lizbeth 80 thread and a 0.60 mm hook, make these eyes. Or go to Page 11 for the second way
you can make the eyes.
Eyes (x 2)
Keep your stitches tight.
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 2: (2 inc, 2 sc) x 2; sl st to join and ch 2 – 12 sts
Round 3: (hdc, hdc inc) x 2, 1 sc in 2 sts, (hdc, hdc inc) x 2, 1 sc in 2 sts; sl st to join – 16 sts

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 10 | P a g e
Large White Part (x 2)
4.1
Use Lizbeth 80 white thread with a 0.6 mm hook.
In a mr 2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 sc; sl st to join
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
Small White Part (x 2)
Use Lizbeth 80 white thread with a 0.6 mm hook.
Ch 2
1 sc in 2nd ch from hook
Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.
Assembly
Sew the eyes between Rounds 11 and 15 of the head, about 7 stitches apart.
If you want a slight indentation, pull the thread tighter while sewing the eyes (be careful not to break it) and
push the eyes in with your thumb. You can even pull the thread through a stitch at the back of the head to
secure the indentation. Once finished, tie knots at the back of the head (Refer to Pictures 4.11 and 4.12
on page 13).
Sew (or glue with clear glue) the large white part at the top right corner of the eye. Repeat for the other
one. Pull the white thread through a stitch at the back of the head and tie a knot there to secure the
indentations even more.
Sew (or glue with clear glue) the small white part to the left of the large white part, at the bottom.
With black thread sew eyelashes on one side of the eye – I did three eyelashes to the right of the right eye
and to the left of the left eye. Sew twice for each to make them thicker.
4.2 4.3

EYES OPTION 2
If you don’t have access to Lizbeth 80, you can create similar eyes by using DMC cotton perle 12 or single
strand floss with a 1 mm hook. Follow the instructions below.
EYES (x 2):
Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts
Round 2: 1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc inc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 sc in 2 sts, 3 sc inc in each of the next 2 sts – 16 sts
Refer to Picture 4.4.
Fasten off. Insert through 1st st of Round 2 (Pictures 4.5 – 4.7) and tie a knot with the mr tail.
To make the white sparkles in the eyes, use white DMC cotton perle 12 thread. Refer to Picture 4.8.
Sew twice going down to make the first sparkle. See Picture 4.9.
4.4 4.5 4.6

With white DMC cotton perle 12 thread, sew two times in two different places. If you want the little sparkles
in the doll’s eyes to be bigger, sew a couple more times.
4.4
4.7 4.8 4.9

Going from left to right, sew twice a stitch or two below the
4.10
first sparkle. See Picture 4.10.
Do not tie knots at the back of the eye. We will use the tails
from the sparkles to secure the eyes and create indentations.
The eyes are sewn on Rounds 11 – 14, about 6 stitches apart.

The eyes are sewn on Rounds 11 – 14, about 6 stitches apart.
I attached the eyes using the tails from creating each eye. Insert
I attached the eyes using the tails from creating each eye. Insert
one black tail through a stitch and a second black tail through
one tail through a stitch and a second tail through the stitch
the stitch right next to the first one at the back of the head
right next to the first one at the back of the head. Press the eye
(going all the way from the front). Press the eye with your
with your thumb to create an indentation and pull the thread
thumb to create an indentation and pull the thread tight. Then
tight. Then tie a knot and stuff the ends in the head. Refer to
tie a knot and stuff the ends in the head. Refer to Pictures 4.11
4.11
Pictures 4.11 and 4.12.
and 4.12.
Repeat with the white tails from the sparkles. Insert the tails all
Repeat with the white tails from the sparkles. Insert the tails all
the way through neighboring stitches at the back of the head
the way through neighboring stitches at the back of the head,
and, pull tight to create the indentation, and tie knots.
pull tight to create the indentation, and tie knots.
With black thread sew a line going from the outer end of the 4.12
eye to the left for the left eye and to the right for the right eye.
That line should be sewn between Rounds 11 and 12.
Starting from the same stitch where you began the first eyelash,
sew a second line but going up at an angle. Refer to Pictures
4.13 and 4.14.
Use glue to secure the eyes where they have not been sewn to
Use glue to secure the eyes where they have not been sewn to the head.
the head.
Once the eyes are attached and secured, press them to make the indentation bigger.
Once the eyes are attached and secured, press them to make the
4.13
indentation bigger. 4.14

NOSE: 4.15
The nose is sewn between Rounds 13 and 14, taking 5 stitches
between the eyes.
The nose is sewn using the bullion stitch (refer to Tutorials on
Page 2). Wrap the thread around the needle 15 - 20 times.
Secure the ends by inserting them through the same stitch, tying
a knot, and stuffing the excess thread inside the head.
PART 5: Hair
Use Aunt Lydia’s size 10, light brown thread with a 1.5 mm hook.
Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1. 5.1

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr – 8 sts
Round 13: in BLO sc around; sl st to join – 48 sts
Round 14
NOTE: (hair strands):
I glued the top ofchthe
36,cap
1 sc
tointhe
2ndhead
ch from hook,
before 1 sc in 34 chains; sl st in next st of hair cap and ch
starting
16, 1 sc14.
Round in 2Only
nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 14 ch, sl st in next
glue the top. Make sure the cap is 6 rounds
5.2
Repeatthe
above until the4end
eyes, or 5ofstitches
the round alternating
to the short
left or right of and
thatlong
eye, strands. At the end of Round 14, you should
haveabout
and 48 hair strands
3 or – 24above
4 rounds shortthe
hairneck.
strands
We (15
willstitches)
sew the and
cap 24 long hair strands (35 stitches).
later to the head. But the glue helps it be secured so we can
Leave a Round
crochet long tail
14for sewing and fasten off.
easily.
Placecan
You themake
hair cap on the
Round head.ifItyou’d
14 first should beIfabout
like. 6 rounds
you decide to above the eyes and on each side, about 4 or 5
stitches
finish to the14left
Round or right
before of that
gluing the eye.
cap, place it on the head first
to make sure it is not too big or too small. Add more rounds if needed but make sure to crochet in the BLO
Iwhen
it glued
seems the
tootop
making to last
small.
the keep the capThen
Addround.
more in place,
rounds then with
started
if needed
continue butthesewing
make using
hairsure the back
to (page
strands 15).stitch.
crochet in the BLO when making the last round. Then
This nextwith
continue stepRound
is optional.
14. I crocheted a second hair cap to create more volume.
Join to front look of Round 13.
Round 14 (hair strands): ch 36, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 34 chains; sl st in next st of hair cap and ch
16, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in 14 ch, sl st in next
Repeat until the end of the round alternating short and long strands. At the end of Round 14, you should
have 48 hair strands – 24 short hair strands (15 stitches) and 24 long hair strands (35 stitches).
Place the hair cap on the head if you have not done so already. Remember that it should be about 6 rounds
above the eyes and on each side, about 4 or 5 stitches to the left or right of that eye.
Once the cap is placed on the head, start sewing using the back stitch. I sewed through the edge of two hair
strands (the edge is the place where each hair strand meets the cap). Pull tight each time to make sure the hair looks
like it’s coming from the head and no sewing stitches are showing. When finished, secure the ends.
5.3 5.4
This next step is optional. I crocheted a second hair cap to create more volume.
Join to front look of Round 13.
Round 11: sc around sl st to join and ch 1 – 32 sts
5.5 5.6

5.7 5.8
We will crochet a second cap to create more volume.

Begin by joining light brown thread to front look of Round 13.
NOTE: In the pictures above it shows that I have crocheted through the BLO of multiple rounds. That’s because I
wasn’t sure how many I will need later. You only need one.
Round 12: (2 sc, dec) x 8; sl st to join and ch 1 – 24 sts
Round 13: (sc, dec) x 8 sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts
Stuff the cap lightly.
Round 14: 8 dec; sl st to join – 8 sts
Fasten off. Close the ring and secure the ends.
5.9 5.10

Once you have finished sewing the cap to the head and creating the second cap for volume, it is time to
style the hair.
Begin by carefully gluing each of the 24 short hair strands to the cap. Glue only the ends of the hair
strands. I used a hot glue gun because the glue dries quickly.
5.11 5.12 5.13
Now carefully pick every long hair strand and form a ponytail. I started with the back first. Make sure the
strands don’t twist.
TIP: Having someone hold the doll while you are working on forming the ponytail is very helpful, especially if you are
making the doll in thread.
Once you have picked all the hair strands, tie them up with brown thread.
You can leave it as is or you can create a little hair ribbon with your white thread.
16 fsc
Glue it carefully around the ponytail. I cut the tails and glued them down at the back of the ponytail. Even
if it gets a little messy with the glue, that part will be hidden under the curls.
5.14 5.15 5.16

EXTRA CURLS
Long curls (x 2)
Ch 17
Row 1: 1 sl st in the back bump of 2nd ch from hook, 1 sl st in 15 back bumps – 16 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
Medium curl (x 1)
Ch 14
Small curls (x 4)
Ch 11

ASSEMBLY
1. Sew three of the small curls at the back of the hair, right where the hair meets the head of the doll.
2. Sew the two long curls on either side of the head, at right about middle of the eye level.
3. Sew the last small curl on the right side and the medium curl a hair strand apart on the left.
5.17 5.18

STYLING THE CURLS
1. Prepare a small bowl with water. Have a metal hook handy too.
4. Begin
2. Begin with
with the
the ponytail
ponytail at
at the
the back.
back. Take
Take aa strand
strand of hair. Dip your fingers in the water and
carefully wetyour
the fingers
strand. in the water and carefully
5.19
of hair. Dip
5. wet
Wraptheitstrand.
tightly around the metal hook. Hold it for a few seconds.
6. Wrap
3. Gentlyitremove
tightly the hookthe
around making
metal sure
hook.the curlitstays
Hold for a in place.
7. few
Repeat with all hair strands.
seconds.
8. Gently
4. Wet andremove
style the
theextra
hook curls thesure
making samethe
way.
curl stays
9. in
When finished, let the hair dry.
place.
5. Repeat with all hair strands.
6. Wet and style the extra curls the same way.
7. When finished, let the hair dry.
5.22 5.20
5.23 5.21

PART 6: Right Wing
Each wing consists of three layers: small wings, medium wings, and large wings. Later those three layers
will be sewn together.
RIGHT WING
Use mohair white thread or DMC Baroque size 10 white
6.1
thread with a–1.5
Small Wing mm1hook.
Part
Here
Ch 3 I used yarn in two colors to make the step by step photos clearer.
Small Wing – Layer 1
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Ch 3
Rows
Row 1:2 2– sc
3: in
sc 2inndeach st; ch
ch from 1 and
hook, turn
2 sc in –last
4 sts
ch;(2
chrows)
1 and turn –
4Row
sts 4: sc in each st
Rows 2 – 3: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts (2 rows)
Row 4: sc in each st
Small Wing – Part 2
Ch 3 Wing – Layer 2
Small 6.2
Ch
Row3 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn –
4 sts
Row 7: 1 sc in 3 sts
Insert7:your
Row 1 sc hook through the last st and through an end st of Part 1; 1 sc joining the two parts; 1 sc in the
in 3 sts
three sts of Part 1; ch 1 and turn – 7 sts
Insert your hook through the last st of Layer 2 and through an
Rowst8:ofscLayer
end in each
1; st;
1 scchjoining
1 and turn – 7 layers;
the two sts 1 sc in the 3 sts
of
Row Layer
9: 1 1;
scch
in 15 and
sts, turn
dec in– FLO
7 sts – 6 sts
Row 8: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 7 sts
Now we will crochet all around the Small Wing. 6.3
Row 9: 1 sc in 5 sts, dec in FLO – 6 sts
1Now
sc inwe6 rows going up
will crochet all the shorter
around the side ofWing.
Small the wing, 2 inc at the top, 1 sc in 4 rows going down; 1 sc in 6
rows, 2 inc at the top, 1 sc in 8 rows going down the long side of the wing; join with a slip stitch.
1 sc in 6 rows going up the shorter side of the wing, 2 inc at
Fasten
the top,off leaving
1 sc a tailgoing
in 4 rows for sewing.
down; 1 sc in 6 rows, 2 inc at the
top, 1 sc in 8 rows going down the long side of the wing; join
with a slip stitch.

Now we will crochet all around the Small Wing.
1 sc in the 6 rows going up the shorter side of the wing (Picture 6.4) and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.5)
1 sc in the 4 rows going down (Picture 6.6)
1 sc in the 6 rows (Picture 6.7) and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.8)
1 sc in the 8 rows going down the long side of the wing (Picture 6.9)
Join with a slip stitch. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
6.4 6.5 6.6
6.7 6.8 6.9

Medium Wing – Layer 1
Ch 3
Ch 3
Row 6: sc in each st – 4 sts
Ch 3
Insert hook through the last st of Layer 3 and through an end st of Layer 2; 1 sc joining the two; 1 sc in 2
sts
Insert hook through the last st of Layer 2 and through an end st of Layer 1; 1 sc joining; 1 sc in 3 sts
Ch 1 and turn – 10 sts
Row 11: 1 sc in 6 sts, 2 dec in FLO; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts

6.10 6.11
Row 12: 1 sc in 8 sts; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
Row 13: 1 sc in 6 sts, dec – 7 sts

Now we will crochet all around the Medium Wing.
1 sc in the 8 rows going up the shorter side of the wing and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.12)
1 sc in the 6 rows and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.14)
1 sc in the 8 rows going up the longest part of the wing and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.16)
Slip stitch to join and fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
6.12 6.13 6.14
6.15 6.16 6.17

Large Wing – Layer 1
Ch 3
Ch 3
Ch 3
Fasten off and weave in the ends
Ch 3
Row 11: 1 sc in 3 sts 6.18
Insert hook through the last st of Layer 4 and through
an end st of Layer 3; 1 sc joining the 2; 1 sc in 2 sts
Insert hook through the last st of Layer 3 and through
an end st of Layer 2; 1 sc joining; 1 sc in 2 sts
Insert hook through the last st Layer 2 and
through an end st of Layer 1; 1 sc joining; 1 sc in 3 sts
Ch 1 and turn – 13 sts (Refer to Picture 6.18)

Row 14: 1 sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 11 sts
Now we will crochet all around the Large Wing.
6.19
1 sc in 10 rows going up the shorter side of the wing and 2
inc at the top
1 sc in 4 rows going down
1 sc in 6 rows and 2 inc at the top
1 sc in 8 rows going up and 2 inc at the top
1 sc in 10 rows going up the longest part and 2 inc at the

top
Now
1 sc inwe16will
rowscrochet
goingall around the Large Wing.
down
1 sc in the 10 rows going up the shorter side of the wing
Slip stitch to join and fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.
and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.20)
1 sc in the 6 rows and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.22)
1 sc in the 8 rows going up and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.24)
1 sc in the 10 rows going up the longest part
and 2 inc at the top (Picture 6.26)
1 sc in the 16 rows going down and ch 1 (Picture 6.27)
Row 18: 1 sc in 9 sts; ch 1 and turn – 9 sts (Picture 6.28)
Row 19: dec in BLO, in both loops 1 sc in 5 sts, dec in BLO; ch 1 and turn – 7 sts
Row 20: dec in FLO, in both loops 1 sc in 3 sts, dec in FLO; ch 1 and turn – 5 sts
Row 21: dec in BLO, 1 sc in both loops, dec in BLO – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.

6.20 6.21
6.22 6.23
6.24 6.25

6.26 6.27
6.28 6.29
6.30

PART 7: Left Wing

Ch 3
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn
7.1
– 4 sts
Ch 3
Row 1: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in last ch; ch 1 and turn
– 4 sts
Rows 2 – 6: sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 4 sts (5 rows) 7.2
Insert your hook through an end stitch of Layer 1 and then
through the last stitch of Layer 2 (Pictures 7.1 – 7.3); 1 sc
joining the two parts; 1 sc in the three sts of Part 1; ch 1 and
turn – 7 sts
Now we will crochet all around the Small Wing.
1 sc in 6 rows going up the shorter side of the wing, 2 inc at

the top, 1 sc in 4 rows going down; 1 sc in 6 rows, 2 inc at
the top, 1 sc in 8 rows going down the long side of the wing;
7.4
join with a slip stitch.
7.3

NOTE: When we made the RIGHT WING, we crocheted Row 9 and then went all around the small wing. For the
LEFT WING, we will first go around the small wing and then make Row 9.
1 sc in the 7 rows going up the longer side of the wing and 2 inc at the top (Picture 7.5)
1 sl st in the second stitch (NOT row; refer to Picture 7.7 and Picture 7.8)
Continue in the 1st st of next row (Picture 7.9) and 1 sc in 3 rows; 2 inc at the top (Picture 7.10)
1 sc in the 5 rows going down the shorter part and ch 1 (Picture 7.11)
Row 9: dec in FLO, in both loops 1 sc in 5 sts – 6 sts
7.5 7.6
7.7 7.8
Skip this stitch.
1 sl st in this stitch

7.9 7.10
7.11 LEFT WING RIGHT WING
7.12
Ch 3
Ch 3
Medium Wing – Part 3
Ch 3

Ch 3
Insert hook through an end st of Layer 2 and through the last st of Layer 3; 1 sc joining the two; 1 sc in 2 sts
Insert hook through an end st of Layer 1 and through the last st of Layer 2; 1 sc joining; 1 sc in 3 sts
Row 11: 1 sc in 6 sts, 2 dec in BLO; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts
7.13
7.14
NOTE: When we made the RIGHT WING, we crocheted Row 13 and then went all around the medium wing. For
the LEFT WING, we will first go around the medium wing and then make Row 13.
1 sc in the 11 rows going up the longest side of the wing and 2 inc at the top (Picture 7.15)
1 sc in the 8 rows going down
Continue in 1st st of next row (Picture 7.9 for small wing) 1 sc in 5 rows; 2 inc at the top (Picture 7.18)
1 sl st in the second stitch (NOT row; same as what you did above)
Continue in 1st st of next row (Picture 7.9 for small wing) 1 sc in 3 rows; 2 inc at the top
1 sc in the 7 rows going down and ch 1 (Picture 7.19)
Row 13: dec in FLO, in both loops 1 sc in 6 sts – 7 sts

7.15 7.16
1 sl st in this stitch. Skip this stitch.
7.17 7.18
7.19 LEFT WING RIGHT WING
7.20

Ch 3
Ch 3
Ch 3
Fasten off and weave in the ends
Ch 3
Insert hook through an end st of Layer 3 and through the last st of Layer 4 (Pictures 7.21 and 7.22); 1 sc
joining the 2; 1 sc in 2 sts
Row 14: 1 sc in each st; ch 1 and turn – 11 sts

7.21 7.22
7.23 7.24
NOTE: When we made the RIGHT WING, we crocheted Row 17 and then went all around the large wing. For the
LEFT WING, we will first go around the large wing and then make Row 17.
1 sc in the 15 rows going up the longest side of the wing and 2 inc at the top (Picture 7.25)
Continue in 1st st of next row (Picture 7.29) 1 sc in 7 rows; 2 inc at the top (Picture 7.30)
Continue in 1st st of next row (Picture 7.29) 1 sc in 5 rows; 2 inc at the top
1 sc in the 6 rows going down
Row 17: 1 sc in 9 sts – ch 1 and turn
Row 18: 1 sc in 9 sts; ch 1 and turn – 9 sts (Picture 6.28)
Row
Pink 19: dec
Mouse in FLO,
Boutique, in both loops 1 sc in 5 sts, dec in FLO; ch 1 and turn – 7 sts
2020 34 | P a g e
Row 21: dec in FLO, 1 sc in both loops, dec in FLO – 3 sts
Continue in 1st st of next row (Picture 7.29) 1 sc in 3 rows; 2 inc at the top
1 sc in the 9 rows going down and ch 1
Row 17: 1 sc in 9 sts – ch 1 and turn (Picture 7.32)
Row 19: dec in FLO, in both loops 1 sc in 5 sts, dec in FLO; ch 1 and turn – 7 sts
Row 21: dec in FLO, 1 sc in both loops, dec in FLO – 3 sts
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
7.25 7.26
7.27 7.28
1 sl st in this stitch.

7.29 7.30
7.31 7.32
7.33

PART 8: Wing Assembly
The wings are not sewn in a straight line but at an angle.

RIGHT WING: Begin by placing the Small Wing on top of the Middle Wing. Refer to Picture 8.1 below.
The bottom of the Small Wing should be sewn to the last row of the Middle Wing and the top of the Small
Wing should be sewn 2 or 3 rows up. Mark the stitches with a stitch marker or thread.
LEFT WING: Repeat the steps above.
RIGHT WING: Using the whip stitch start sewing the Small Wing to the Middle Wing. Tip: You can tie
the bottom corners of the Small and Medium wing. That way the wings will not move, and you can
smoothly sew them together keeping the angle. Refer to Picture 8.3. Weave in the Small Wing tail when
done sewing.
LEFT WING: Repeat steps above.
8.1 8.2
8.3 8.4

RIGHT WING: Place Small/Middle Wing on top of the Large Wing. The bottom of the Small/Middle
Wing should be sewn to Row 19 or 20 of the Large Wing and the top – 2 or 3 rows above it. (Pictures 8.5
and 8.6). Mark with thread.
LEFT WING: Repeat the steps above.
RIGHT WING: Using the whip stitch start sewing the Small/Middle Wing to the top. Tip: You can tie
the bottom corners of the Small/Medium Wing and the Large Wing together. That way the wings will
not move, and you can smoothly sew them together keeping the angle. Refer to Picture 8.8. Weave in the
Medium Wing tail when done sewing.
LEFT WING: Repeat steps above.
8.5 8.6
8.7 8.8

The wings on the left are made with DMC Baroque size 10 thread. After I assembled the wings, I wet them
and placed them under a towel and heavy books to straighten the curly ends of the wings.
The wings on the right are made with mohair thread. I left the ends of the wings curly.
8.9 8.10
Sew or glue the wings at the back. The wings should be sewn about 3 or 4 stitches apart if using mohair
and 2 or 3 stitches apart if using DMC Baroque size 10.
Tip: Pin the back curls up so they don’t get in the way. You may need to curl those again later.
Glue the bow between the wings
8.11 8.12

Use a cotton swab and blush to add some pink to the cheeks.
Your finished angel should be about 4 inches tall (measuring from the top of the ponytail).

PART 9: Tiny White Dove
MATERIALS:
1. DMC cotton perle size 12, white and black

2. DMC metallic floss, silver (single strand)
3. Clover Amour hook, 1 mm
4. Stuffing
ABBREVIATIONS:
Mr – magic ring sc – single crochet
Ch – chain st – stitch
HEAD
Hdc – half double crochet trbl – treble crochet
Crochet in continuous rounds.
Round 1: with white 5 sc in a mr – 5 sts

BODY
Round 6: 3 dec, 1 sc in last 4 sts – 7 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Set aside.
BODY
WINGS (x 2) Round 6: sc around – 9 sts
Round 1: 2 sc, hdc, trbl, hdc, 2 sc in a mr Stuff the body well.
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Round 7: (sc, dec) x 3 – 6 sts
Round 8: 3 dec; ch 1 and turn – 3 sts
9.1
Crochet in rows. The count continues from last
Round 6: sc around – 9 sts row.
Stuff the body well. Row 9: 1 sc in 2 sts; ch 1 and turn – 2 sts
Round 7: (sc, dec) x 3 – 6 sts Row 10: 1 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 3 sts
Round 8: 3 dec; ch 1 and turn – 3 sts Row 11: 1 sc in 3 sts
Crochet in rows. The count continues from last Fasten off and secure the stitches.
row.
Row 10: 1 sc, inc; ch 1 and turn – 3 sts

ASSEMBLY
Secure the head with a pin to the top of the body. The front of the head will be sewn to the second round of
the body with a whip stitch.
Once you finish, sew the wings on each side of the body.
Secure all stitches.
The beak is made using the bullion stitch. It is sewn between rounds 4 and 5 and it only takes one stitch
(refer to the picture below). Wrap the thread around the needle 6 or 7 times.
Sew the eyes (optional) a round above and about a stitch apart from the beak. Use the bullion stitch and
wrap the thread around the needle only once or twice.
9.2 9.3
9.4 9.5

Angelo Chek

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Pink Mouse Boutique

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 1|Page

d. DMC metallic floss – dress details Sl st – slip stitch

b. Clover Amour, 0.60 mm – eyes Inc – increase

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 2|Page

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 3|Page

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 4|Page

PART 2: Legs and Arms

The legs are crocheted in continuous rounds.

Rounds 2 – 7: sc around – 8 sts (6 rounds)

With the whip stitch, sew the 8 stitches in the middle.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 6|Page

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 7|Page

Join white thread at the back in the FLO of Round 28.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 8|Page

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 9|Page

Keep your stitches tight.

Round 1: 8 sc in a mr; sl st to join and ch 1 – 8 sts

Round 2: (2 inc, 2 sc) x 2; sl st to join and ch 2 – 12 sts

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

In a mr 2 hdc, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 2 sc; sl st to join

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

Small White Part (x 2)

Use Lizbeth 80 white thread with a 0.6 mm hook.

1 sc in 2nd ch from hook

Leave a tail for sewing and fasten off.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 11 | P a g e

4.4 4.5 4.6

4.7 4.8 4.9

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 12 | P a g e

The eyes are sewn on Rounds 11 – 14, about 6 stitches apart.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 13 | P a g e

Join each round with a slip stitch and chain 1. 5.1

Leave a long tail for sewing and fasten off.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 15 | P a g e

We will crochet a second cap to create more volume.

Round 13: (sc, dec) x 8 sl st to join and ch 1 – 16 sts

Stuff the cap lightly.

Round 14: 8 dec; sl st to join – 8 sts

Fasten off. Close the ring and secure the ends.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 16 | P a g e

5.11 5.12 5.13

5.14 5.15 5.16

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 17 | P a g e

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 18 | P a g e

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 19 | P a g e

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 20 | P a g e

6.4 6.5 6.6

6.7 6.8 6.9

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 21 | P a g e

Row 11: 1 sc in 6 sts, 2 dec in FLO; ch 1 and turn – 8 sts

Row 13: 1 sc in 6 sts, dec – 7 sts

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 22 | P a g e

6.12 6.13 6.14

6.15 6.16 6.17

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 23 | P a g e

Pink Mouse Boutique, 2020 24 | P a g e

1 sc in 4 rows going down