THE E COLLAR

2 8 32 12 5 15
mini mini mini mini mini mini
educator educator educator educator educator educator

starter guide
LOVE, WALKING DOG TRAINING
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Author note: There is so much you can do on your own with E Collar training. I mean, that's
how I got started! There might come a time when you feel like you need professional help.
There is a reason why owners hire dog trainers, and we have the experience to help you through
different situations that feel slightly over your head. If at any time during this process you feel
like you need some extra help, we recommend that you reach out to a balanced trainer in your
area or virtually. The E Collar Starter Guide is precisely what the title suggests - a guide to get
you started. You can always set up a Virtual Owner Coaching Session with me on Instagram
@walkingdogtraining, and we can develop a game plan to keep moving forward! This process
will look different for many owners, which is okay. We are all in this together!
I knew nothing about E Collar training until we got our
third dog, Theo. I think that's how most of our stories
start. You don't need this training until you need this
training. Long story short, I started using the E Collar
with him, and our relationship changed. He's the reason
I'm a dog trainer. I want to help other owners who feel
hopeless, as I once did. And here I am, writing the
opening note for our E Collar Starter Guide. You never
know where life (or a challenging dog) will lead you!
I hope this guide inspires you. - Bethany

G DOG
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1
 15 WHAT IS
mini
educator
IN HERE
BEFORE TRAINING STARTS

04 Things To Keep In Mind

PART TWO: EXTRA TIPS
05 What you will need

06 Remote Anatomy 46 Single, Double or Continuous?

08 Contact Points 48 Should I use food?

09 Which E Collar is right for you? 49 Multi Dog Home

10 Collars 101

11 Proper Fit: E Collar

PART THREE: RECALL
12 Prong Collars

54 Off-Leash Checklist

56 TONE

PART ONE: TRAINING 62 Long-Line Work

16 E Collar Reminders

17 Kindergarten Phase PART FOUR: WHEN

18 Finding The Working Level GUESTS COME OVER
20 First Session: Step by Step
65 Is your dog reactive with guests?
22 Threshold Exercise

23 Prompting Phase

25 Accountability Phase PART FIVE: SCHEDULE

28 Real World Phase
72 14-Day Training Schedule
30 Heel Command
82 Place Duration Daily Times
37 Place Command

40 Place Duration Tips

2
 MASTERING
THE ART OF
E COLLAR
TRAINING
LOVE, WALKING DOG TRAINING

YOUR VIDEO GUIDE

We now have a new video guide that goes perfectly

with our E Collar Starter Guide! Tons of videos that
take you through this book so you can see how to do
everything we talk about in here.

CLICK HERE TO GET STARTED

BEFORE YOU
GET STARTED
3
 WHEN STARTING WITH THE E COLLAR
Things To Keep In Mind
As a board and train trainer who works with dogs for two weeks, there are certain things that
help me get the most out of my time with each dog. You have much longer than this, but there
are a few things I would recommend if you want to get the most out of this process.

Consistency. When you expect more from your dog

(heel/place/come), it is essential to be consistent with the E Collar.
Doing this is the key to you and your dog's success with this training.

Everything adds up. E Collar training is a piece of the bigger picture.

Don't forget to add in some extra structure along with the training.
Dogs THRIVE with structure. One of the most significant changes I
see in dogs is when we switch up their schedule and add in more
downtime—Aka place time or kennel time to strengthen your dog's
calm skills.

Consistent routines. Whether it's post-walk place time or kennel

duration after fun in the backyard, staying consistent with new habits
that promote calmness is essential. Small moments stack up.

Prioritize commands that simplify YOUR life. I get many questions

about what commands owners should focus on initially. I like to start
with commands that simplify my life. Place, down, recall, and heel are
my top four. I want to incorporate the first three into one session (like
we do in our first E Collar session) and then work on the heel command
when we go for a walk. Make time for the commands that simplify YOUR
life. That's how you truly get the most out of this training.

4
 WHAT YOU WILL NEED
When getting started with e-collar training, it's nice to have everything ready.
Whenever I start working with a dog, I have the e-collar charged, a shorter leash
on, and a place cot prepared to go. There will be moments when things don't feel
as smooth as you'd like, but being organized helps!

E COLLAR QUIET Dogs are easily distracted

by noises and smells, so

I use and recommend the mini

SPACE it's best to start this stuff
indoors. Doing this will
educator // $180 & it has 100 keep your levels lower
levels // It's an investment for initially (which is
sure, but worth it. Do not buy one preferred for the working
with 8 levels for $39.99. level). Put your other
dogs/cats away and focus
on your pup so they can
focus on you. Although,
playing Christmas music
is encouraged.

DOG BED
The E Collar is non
LEASH directional. Having a
leash on initially is
helpful, so you can give
your dog extra guidance
when layering this new
sensation over A dog bed or raised cot is a nice
commands. I like to use target to use when introducing the
a 4-6 foot basic leash. E Collar. I like to layer continuous
pressure over the place command
and recall off of place.

5
 REMOTE You can buy the Mini Educator on ecollar.com or Amazon. You can
buy it in different colors and I love the shape of it - easy to handle.
ANATOMY

black button: momentary stim dial knob: how you change

the levels on the remote

red button: when set to m/c

it is continuous (this is how I set
mine up), but otherwise it will be display screen
your boost button

battery light (it will

flash red when low
on battery)
on/off and light button
(press and hold for a
couple of seconds to
turn on and off)

mode button: it lets

you change the
vibrate or tone button remote setting
(M or C: momentary
or continuous)
magnetic power switch
to turn on the collar (you
make the two red dots "kiss")

loop for your

lanyard to hang
around your neck
charging spot: there is also
one on the collar

6

01 Follow through
Do not use the remote as a
threat - this will create a dog
that doesn't trust you.
04 Levels
Don't get stuck on the
number. Pay attention to
your dog. Your dog will
show you what number is
meaningful for the situation.
07 Like a seat belt
Think of the e-collar as a
seat belt. It should always
be on JUST IN CASE you
need it.
16
6
reminder
Sheet
mini
educator
02 Contact Sores
03 Easy Access
Switch the receiver Always have the remote
position around the with you initially. Put it
neck every 2-3 hours to in your pocket or
prevent contact sores. around your neck.
05 Is it on? 06 Distractions
Make sure the collar is Keep in mind that more
on by testing it before distractions usually
putting it on your dog. mean you will need
higher numbers.
08 Whining 09 Consistency
Your dog should always have it
Yes, you can and should on when you are at home. If you
correct for whining. pick and choose when she wears
Think of it like you are it, she will become "collar
snapping your dog out smart," picking and choosing
of that state of mind. when she listens to you.
WHAT BUTTONS DO I USE?
Please remember that there are different ways to set up your remote - this is my
preferred way of doing it. If you find another way that you prefer, go for it!

M/C. You will see both an M and C

on the screen and this makes the red
button your continuous button. The
primary button you
will be using.

When giving continuous pressure

you will press and hold on the red
button. When you move to
prompting or corrections, you will
also use the red button with a
single tap giving momentary
pressure.

The button You will also be using the "T" button.

with a "T" When you get your remote, this button
on it
will be set to vibrate, but we like to
switch it to tone. You can take a look at
our tone highlight on Instagram to see
how we do this. Tone is great for recall
and encourages movement in all kinds
of situations.

7
 CONTACT POINTS
Over at ecollar.com, you can choose from different contact points. Does your
dog have long/thick fur? I would get the ones specifically for thick hair.
There are also some for sensitive skin (comfort pads). Using them will make
a big difference when trying to find the working level.

Thick Short Sensitive

Fur Hair Skin

These are great for dogs For a lot of dogs, the basic Comfort Pads. These contact points
with longer and/or thick contact points that arrive are great for any dog with sensitive
fur. with your E Collar are skin. There are short and long ones.
Tip: "brush" the points perfectly fine! Great for Numbers may be a bit higher than
into your dog's fur. Do most dogs without any usual due to the rounded tips
that a couple of times and skin issues. compared to the pointed ends on
then nuzzle them in other contact points.
before tightening the
collar.

Hypoallergenic Titanium Comfort Pads. These

contact points are great for any
dog with skin allergies.
Sometimes dogs can still have a
reaction to the normal comfort
pads, but not so much with these.
A little more pricey, but worth it.

I like thick fur Short hair

and I cannot lie Sensitive skin babes Don't care

8
 WHICH We love to use the Mini Educator E Collar
and recommend you use it when working
E COLLAR through this guide. If you have another
E Collar with 100 levels, you can also use
SHOULD that. We do not recommend using an

I GET? E Collar that has less than 100 levels.

MINI EDUCATOR MINI EDUCATOR MICRO

I primarily use the Mini Educator with
most dogs I work with.
You can get it in different colors: pink (my
favorite!), black, blue, yellow, orange or
red. Both the mini and micro have a 1/2
mile range for off-leash reliability.
According to the E Collar Technologies
website: "It is an all-around smaller
version of our Mini Educator receiver at
approximately 20% smaller, 20% lighter,
and 20% less stimulation."
This model is great for smaller dogs and
larger dogs that are sensitive.

** Note: There is also a version called The Boss. This one is a bit
6 stronger than the Mini Educator, the battery lasts longer, and it has a
the boss
range of 1 mile compared to 1/2 a mile range with the Mini and Micro.

I have used the Boss E Collar with dogs who fall into the category of extreme reactivity.
If you're unsure if you could benefit from this E Collar, reach out for a virtual owner
coaching session with me to talk it through. For most owners, the mini educator will do.

9
9
 COLLARS 101
We like to purchase our collars from the site linked here

The bungee helps the

You can add on a collar expand with
quick snap This is the basic your dog's neck,
buckle to your collar! collar that creating a much
comes with more consistent fit.
your E Collar

I personally like the

The added buckle is
bungee for dogs that
nice for most dogs.
have thick necks, like
Makes it super
pitties or pittie mixes.
easy to get on and off.

Not sure which one to get for your dog? No worries! You can't
go wrong with the basic one with your E Collar. How to get a
consistent fit? Use a white-out marker and make a dot next to
the hole you have been using.

10
 Fit is everything! Keep in mind that the

PROPER FIT E Collar should be a bit more snug than you

think. Good contact will help your numbers
stay consistent.

You should barely be able to fit two fingers under the collar.
Can you move the receiver on the collar around your dog's neck? That means it's too loose.
If your dog shakes their head, the receiver should not swivel to the other side of their neck.
When working with your dog, do not attach the leash to the E Collar. This could affect the fit.

E COLLAR SANDWICH
Prong collar goes up top. Why?
Because up high is the most
sensitive part of your dog's neck.
E Collar goes right below it.
Flat buckle collar right below that.
E Collar Fit receiver = the little box on the collar
Why so many collars?
Safety! I like to attach
the prong collar to the
flat buckle collar with a
carabiner clip. If the
prong collar comes off,
you will still be attached
to the flat collar. You
can clip the prong collar
with a carabiner to the
E Collar.

Talk to
yourself like
you would to
someone you
love.
Brene Brown

11
 You can order them from Amazon. Search for Herm Sprenger Prong
PRONG Collar. I have heard of people getting knock offs on Amazon, so be
careful of that. We order ours from Pawmark.com but please be sure
COLLARS to email them first to make sure they have them in stock.

This is where you attach your

leash. To the "swivel ring".

This is the "dead

ring" and it
lays flat against your
dog's neck.
I like to add on a
buckle to make
it easier for owners
to get on and off
**You can add a buckle from Katie's
buckles @katiesbuckles on Instagram
FAQ: Can I use the
E Collar and prong
collar at the same
time?
Yes! Using both at the same
time will help you better
communicate what you want
from your dog. If something is
helpful for you, keep using it.
You don't have to stop using the
prong collar or phase it out.

3.0 2.25
Different sizes
micro prong collar
2.25 medium
I like the micro size for smaller dogs and
This is the size I use with the majority of get mine from Pawmark. It is not herm
dogs I work with. Also with bigger dogs, sprenger, but I still like it.
but you may need to buy extra links
depending on your dog's size. We get our micro prong collars here

3.0 large
The links on this one are a little bigger **Not actual size, but you can see the
than the 2.25. I would use this for bigger difference in size between the two
dogs with longer/thick fur.

12
PRONG COLLAR OPTIONS m
fan

cy!
I'
You can also get a black
prong collar. It looks super
sleek and fancy. If you are
at all nervous about what
people will think when your dog You can also get a Curogan
is wearing a prong collar, prong collar. It's rose gold
I recommend getting a black in color and great for dogs
one. It's not as easy to with sensitive skin.
recognize.

why we use it
PRONG
It's a great tool to
COLLAR communicate
clearly and give
101 extra guidance on
the walk

#walkingdogtraining

WHAT KIND We use the medium size 2.25

IT IS NOT: DO YOU USE:
with most dogs. But, if you
have a Great Dane or a dog
made out of HERM with long/thick hair, a large
needles that will SPRENGER 3.0 will do.
leave holes in
your dog's neck

it should be worn
& it's called a pinch collar, high on the neck right
because you have to under the ears
"pinch" the prongs to
IT WILL NOT
"PINCH" connect the collar and
YOUR DOG take it apart

13
 PART ONE
TRAINING

14
 THE TRAINING PHASES
In the next section we will go over the different E Collar training phases. You will be
using the E Collar differently based on the phase you are in. Take a look at our daily
schedule section to see how to move through each phase.

KINDERGARTEN PHASE
I also like to refer to this as the continuous phase. It's when we simultaneously
introduce the E Collar pressure, layering it over each command with leash guidance.

PROMPTING PHASE
Instead of the continuous pressure we used in the Kindergarten phase, we are now
moving to Prompts. You will give a single tap on the E Collar instead of continuous
pressure. We are providing less E Collar information but still adding some clarity.

ACCOUNTABILITY PHASE
This phase is when you start holding your dogs accountable for things they know.
You will be dialing up a bit in this phase and pairing it with NO. Doing this will make
commands non-negotiable.

REAL WORLD PHASE

This phase is a reminder to get out of your normal training routine and enjoy new
experiences with your dog. This training is so much more than place or heel and
hopefully this section helps you see that.

15
 KINDERGARTEN
PHASE
I also like to refer to this as the continuous phase. It's when we simultaneously introduce the
E Collar pressure, layering it over each command with leash guidance.

What You Will Need Shorter leash 4-6 feet

E Collar

Another collar to attach the leash to. Please

do not attach the leash to your E Collar

Raised Place Cot

A clear mind. Check your expectations. If you

go into this expecting perfection, you will be
disappointed. Be patient with yourself and your dog.

1. You want to walk towards the place cot and when you get about a foot or two away, say
"PLACE," and as soon as you do, give continuous E Collar pressure simultaneously. Your
finger comes off the button when all four paws get onto the place cot. Doing this exercise
is a great way to show your dog how to turn off the E Collar pressure.

2. You can mark with a neutral "good" to mark the behavior and a piece of food if
you're using any as a reward

Then I like to say, "let's go!" and guide the dog off of the place cot. I walk around the cot
3. and back to where we started. Refer back to #1 and do it again. Think of it like reps at
the gym. Repetition is an excellent way for dogs to learn. Set a timer for 5 to 10 minutes,
and get those reps in!

17
 FINDING THE
WORKING LEVEL
WANT TO SEE ME WORK WITH DIFFERENT DOGS? your video guide is HERE

The working level is the very first level your dog feels on the E Collar. We primarily use this
level (with some leveling up or down if needed) when "working" through the Kindergarten
training phase. Here are some tips to get you started!

1. First, I like to set my remote to M/C.

The red button will be continuous and
the primary button you use to find the
working level and continue to use in
the first training phase.
2. Make sure you are in a low
distraction area and preferably
your dog is sitting on their bed or
place cot. Outside is not ideal due
to all the sounds and smells.

3. Start at level 1 on the remote, and hold on

to the red button while slowly dialing up.
4.
Watch your dog! You are looking for subtle
changes like an ear twitch or if your dog's
head moves as if to say, 'what was that?'
Once your dog responds to a level,
go back to level 1 and do it at least
two more times. This will help you
find a median level. Example: if the
levels were 5, 6 and 8 I would start
with a 6 or 7.

Watch your dog's neck if you don't see an ear twitch or head
tilt. If you see it moving, that means your dog feels it. Ensure
you have good contact if your initial levels are getting up to 15,
20, or higher. You may need to switch to different contact
points. But some dogs work at higher levels initially.

k e not
It is normal for a dog to get a
e
t

a little more sensitive to the E Collar will go directly below your

E Collar pressure as you
train more. Don't be afraid
to dial up or down a level or
two to find a level that feels
a bit smoother.
collar and leash. You can use a
prong collar, flat buckle collar or a
slip lead paired with the E Collar.

18
How to start pairing the E Collar with "NO" in this phase:

If your dog walks off of place before you say "let's go" or "break," you want to say "no."
// tone should be calm // followed up by "place" and simultaneously give continuous E Collar
pressure at the working level with leash guidance back onto place. And same as before, when all
four paws get back onto the place cot, your finger comes off the button. You are not not necessarily
correcting in this phase, but instead, showing your dog how to turn off the E Collar pressure.

FAQ: So, how long am I supposed to stay in the Kindergarten Phase?

I would say two to five days when you are doing a 10-minute session daily plus some duration
on place. And honestly, this depends on you and how confident you feel about dialing up on
the E Collar. Because when you move to the next phase, you will be dialing up on the E Collar.

Trainer Tip: try the "dial-up method" and incorporate it

into a recall session. Doing this is a great way to get
comfortable dialing up on the remote. Toss some food on
the ground and recall your dog away from it. Start at the
working level and slowly dial up, saying, "come!" As soon
as your dog heads your way, your finger comes off the
button. Give light leash guidance to add some clarity.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

Check your expectations. I'm a glass half-full kind of girl, but I have learned to be realistic
about my training expectations with dogs. My advice to you is to anticipate the struggle.
The moments when it's not going the way you had hoped. Everyone gets into E Collar
training with high expectations. They envision off-leash hikes and seamless walks that feel
all kinds of dreamy. But, to get there usually feels like a roller coaster. If you anticipate the
bumps along the way, it makes it much less scary. And instead of feeling like you're doing it
all wrong, you know it's simply part of the process.

19
 P la ce a nd re ca ll: st e p
FIRST SESSION b y st e p wit h t he E Colla r

Ab out a f oot or t wo a wa y
1. f rom t he cot sa y " pla ce " a nd
a s soon a s y ou do, pre ss
a nd hold t he re d b ut t on
(pre ssure on)
Is t he cont inuous pre ssure
t oo much? Y ou ca n a lso give
cont inuous t a ps inst e a d of
cont inuous pre ssure . P la ce -
t a p- t a p- t a p unt il y our dog
ge t s on pla ce .

2. 3.

As soon a s a ll f our pa ws In t he b e ginning, only wa lk t o t he e dge

ge t on pla ce , pre ssure of f of t he b e d/ cot . T his will he lp y our dog
a nd ma rk wit h " good" ma k e t he b e st de cision a t t his t ime .

4.

And t he n re ca ll L ouie , come ! Pre ssure on a s

And whe n she st a rt s t o
soon a s y ou sa y " come "
he a d y our wa y , pre ssure of f
a nd pra ise y our dog. G ood
girl, L ou B oo. G o b a ck t o # 1
t o ge t more re ps in.

20
 THRESHOLD EXERCISE
The exercise on the next page is a good one to add to
your initial sessions when working with your dog. Most
dogs want to rush through doorways, and by doing this
exercise, you can help slow your dog down. If you're
nervous about dialing up, you can wait to do this
exercise closer to days three or four.

One of the most powerful things you can do is be clear

that running through doorways is not ok anymore. This
will be helpful in your home, in your car, and the kennel.

21
 Step One
Walk up to the doorway with your dog.
Start at or around your dog's working level.
You may need to dial up a bit each time
depending on your dog.
Step Three
If the level meant something to your dog,
you will notice it. Dial up for the next time,
And if not, it may lead to them walking
right past you like in the picture below.
This is not what we want.
22
Step Two
When your dog is about to get close to you
and the doorway, tap on your remote to
create a kind of barrier.
Step Four
You can ask for a sit if you'd like, but you don't have
to. We are just looking for your dog to become more
aware of you and not blow through doorways.
Repeat through all the doors until your dog
noticeably slows down at each threshold.
Don't wait until your dog is already past you
If your dog is already past you and you're using more
leash pressure than E Collar pressure, try again and
tap on the E Collar when your dog starts to move closer
to you, as you see in step two.
 PROMPTING
PHASE
Instead of the continuous pressure we used in the Kindergarten phase,
we are now moving to Prompts. Each time you say a command, you will
give a single tap on the E Collar at the same time. We are providing less
E Collar information but still adding it with each command.

WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF THIS PHASE?

Using the E Collar in different ways helps dogs better understand what this new pressure
means. Think of prompts like reminders. Sometimes I will use both continuous pressure
(like we do in the Kindergarten phase) and some prompts, and I've found that combining
the two in a session can be helpful.

Think of this phase as a transitional one: from

Kindergarten to Accountability. You won't need to stay in
it as long as the others. Prompting is how we move away
from having to use the E Collar as much as we were in the
Kindergarten phase with continuous pressure.

Here's what this looks like:

"Bowie, sit" // single tap when you say sit // You may still
need to give leash guidance when giving commands.

And same with all the commands: place, down, recall and heel.

Trainer Tip: If you combine the two phases (kindergarten and

prompting), try using continuous pressure for recall off of the
place cot, and a prompt for "place" and sit or down.

23
 1. You want to walk towards the place cot and when you get about a foot or two away, say "PLACE,"
and as soon as you do, give a prompt with the E Collar at the same time (one tap on the red
button). You can also point towards place to add some clarity. Whatever is helpful for your dog!
Please note that we are still at or around the working level - lower levels.

Now I like to add in some recall off of place. Instead of "let's go" or "break," I will say, "come!"
2. and at the same time give continuous E Collar pressure (combining both phases one and two
into a session) with some leash guidance if needed. When the dog starts to come my way,
pressure off. Give your dog some praise when they get to you. Sessions like this are the
beginning of off-leash reliability! Exciting!

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

Watch your dog. All dogs respond differently to E Collar pressure. Some are much more sensitive
to continuous pressure vs. tapping, while others react beautifully to constant pressure. My point is
to pay attention to your dog. What feels best for them? Are they responding too much to level
eight? Dial down to seven. Take a breath. You're doing great. Now try again and watch your dog.
Did that feel smoother? Great! If not, dial down one more. Watch your dog. They will show you
what they need. which might look slightly different each time. As a trainer, I've learned to be open
to getting creative and trying new things based on the dog in front of me. Maybe this could look like
taps instead of continuous pressure - or flipping the place cot over initially, because the dog is
nervous about it. Be ready to adapt to each situation.

24
 ACCOUNTABILITY PHASE
Does your dog know all the commands but will only do them if you
have food? This phase is when we start holding our dogs
accountable for things they know. We will be dialing up a bit in
this phase and pairing it with NO.

HOW DO I KNOW IF WE ARE READY FOR THIS PHASE?

The food test is a great way to tell if it's time to hold your dog accountable for known commands. Will
your dog do everything when you have treats or food with you? Do they blow you off when you don't?
If so, it's time for this phase. Also, your dog must understand what E Collar pressure means before
moving to corrections. I recommend at least 5-7 days of consistent work in the first two phases prior to
moving into the Accountability Phase.

Here's how this looks when incorporating it into a session: Louie, down // let's assume she doesn't
lay down // You will mark with NO and follow up with a tap on the E Collar at a level that means
something and then repeat down.

HOW DO I FIND A
MEANINGFUL LEVEL?

I usually start about 10-15 levels above a dog's

working level when correcting. If a dog is super
sensitive to the E Collar (generally working at
lower levels), I will start at five above the working
level. You can underwhelm your dog first before
finding a meaningful level.

After pairing the E Collar tap with no at a bit

higher level, repeat the rep (asking your dog for
a "down" during a session is a rep). Does your
dog lay down when asked? If yes, that means
your correction level was meaningful! If not,
you need to dial up a little more to find a level
that means something for the next time.

25
Are you nagging your dog? The purpose of a correction is to provide clarity instead of confusion.
If you constantly tap on the E Collar when you say no, that is usually a sign that you are
underwhelming your dog, which leads to nagging. I know it's a little scary when dialing up, but
being clear about things like this is one of the best things you can do for your dog - nagging, on the
other hand, is not so nice.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

Take your time. So many owners that I talk with are nervous about dialing up on the E Collar and I want
you to know THIS IS NORMAL. Take your time. If it feels right, you can take two weeks to work on the
first few phases. It's all about your confidence, and it's ok if you underwhelm your dog with levels for a
bit. I think it might be a good way for you to get used to changing the levels and learn what works best
for your dog in different situations. No judgment. If you feel frustrated or like you aren't making
progress, that is different - but nervous about dialing up? Take your time.

PROOFING A COMMAND
Proofing is when we make each command non-negotiable. How
does a trainer get a dog to stay in the down command around
distractions at the park? By proofing it at home. Besides the place
command, the down command is my favorite so let's start there.

Here's what this looks like:

"Wyclef, down" // he doesn't lay down // "no" followed by a tap

on the remote at a correction level and then repeat "down."

Now Wyclef is laying nicely on the ground, and you start to walk
around him // E Collar is set to a correction level //, and you do a
little dance, which is a GREAT distraction and highly recommended.
Wyclef pops up from the down. Timing is essential here. You were
anticipating this, so you are ready! As soon as he gets up from the
down, you say "no" and give one single tap. If he doesn't lay back
down automatically, repeat "down."

26
Now I want you to dial up a few levels. Let's start with 5. Repeat the same exercise. Dance around.
If your previous correction meant enough, your dog should stay in the down command. You can
reward with food or a high-value treat for this if you'd like. If it didn't mean enough, dialing up a
little each time will help you find a level that means something. Doing this leads to less nagging
and a whole lot of clarity.

A NOTE ABOUT DIALING UP

Inside Scoop: Whenever I go for a follow-up visit to an owner's home after the board and train
program, the number one thing I find myself telling owners is to dial-up. Whether the dog is
getting off of place or being pushy on the walk, it's much easier to nag at lower levels. Even though
we get annoyed with repeating things repeatedly, correcting at higher levels doesn't feel great.
And it shouldn't! But, the majority of dogs that I work with (and I have a feeling yours will fall into
this group at some point) eventually need higher levels to create clarity instead of confusion.
"Higher levels" might mean dialing up ten levels above the one you are currently correcting at - it
doesn't necessarily mean HIGH numbers. But, if you find that you are nagging your dog and know
they know the expectations (heel, place, down, recall), it might be time to dial-up.

OUR GO HOME GUIDE

If you would like a detailed look into the Accountability

Phase and what it looks like for each command, you can
find it all in our Go Home Guide. I send this to our board
and train owners. When their dog returns home from our
program, when using their E Collars, the owners are in the
Accountability Phase. In our Go Home Guide you will get
a clear idea of how you will be using the E Collar with
your dogs during this phase.

27
 This phase is a reminder to
get out of your normal training
REAL WORLD routine and enjoy new
experiences with your dog. This
training is so much more than

PHASE place or heel and hopefully this

section helps you see that.

HOW DO I KNOW IF WE ARE READY FOR THIS PHASE?

When your dog is rocking the commands (down, heel, sit, or place) at home, it's a great time to go
out into the real world! Maybe a trip to a home improvement store or long line work at the park.
Being able to hold your dog accountable for things out in public is one of the best parts of this
training because it opens up your world and creates opportunities you couldn't enjoy before.
So, let's look at some ideas.

Long-Line Work
One of my favorite things to do with dogs! Once you feel confident on the walk, long line work is the
next step to challenge you and your dog. Grab a 15-20 foot long line and work with your dog on
recall. You are on your way to off-leash fun when you start to incorporate this one!

I get my long lines from Pawmark and really like the 1/4 width and the 15 or 20 foot line

Home Improvement Store

Want to test your dog's skills? Training takes work,
and it's always good to incorporate new challenges. A home
improvement store is a great place to work on the heel
command and get your dog comfortable being around
people/noises while holding them accountable for a job like
heel or down. You could also try getting your dog on those
orange things people push around. Most dogs are nervous
about them, and working our dogs through stuff like
that is a great way to help boost their confidence. It might
not feel like it at the time, but trust me. Bring some food with
you if that helps! And be sure to check and make sure the
store allows personal dogs.

28
"Off Leash" Heel With The Long-Line
Work on the heel position while your dog drags the long line. With this exercise, you will
primarily rely on the E Collar. The prerequisite is E Collar heel on a walk with a shorter leash.

Long-line work may be difficult if you don't have control with

a shorter leash. You can always practice this indoors first.
Will your dog follow you around your home in heel? If so,
great! The next stop could be a pretty park with more
distractions. You might be nervous, and that's ok! You'll never
know if your dog is ready until you try.

Place to Place Recall

You can use a place cot, cozy bed, or bathroom rug. Have a long line leash on for extra guidance if
needed. You will stand behind one "place" target and recall your dog to you. Once your dog gets
there, mark with good. Be sure to praise your dog for recalling to you. Now you will walk away to
the other place target. One note when doing this for the first time is that you want to be clear about
boundaries. Anticipate that your dog will want to follow you off of place.

Have your E Collar set to a correction level (to start, this could be 10-15 above their working level),
and make sure you look back at them to catch the moment. If your dog tries to follow you, you will
say "no" and tap on the remote once as soon as their paw hits the ground. Walk back to them and
guide them onto the place cot - this is when the leash might be helpful. Dial-up on the remote five
levels. Walk away again. Your dog will not try to follow you if your correction the last time meant
something. If it didn't, you are prepared with a bit higher level to catch the moment and find a level
that means something. If you have to repeat this correction, take a mental note for the next time.
You will want to start at that higher level to be clear about place boundaries.

Down stay at the park

Don't underestimate the power of incorporating down stays during this phase. You can do this at
Home Depot, the park, or a restaurant and hold your dog accountable for the down command. You
can also add this to your morning walk. The walk doesn't have to be a straight line. Ask for a down
at the corner, walk around them, and then back to heel - this small moment will pay off! You are
holding your dog accountable by now, so refer back to the place-to-place recall section when I
mentioned corrections and levels. It will look very similar.

29
 THE WALK

30
 HEEL COMMAND
IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING WITH REACTIVITY, PLEASE BE SURE TO CHECK OUT OUR
REACTIVE DOG HANDBOOK TO LEARN HOW TO USE THE E COLLAR ON WALKS

This is your walking command and using the E Collar for this command takes it to another
level! I'm so excited for you to start this. Here are my top tips to get you started, along with
some things that may come up along the way. Why is the heel position (to your left or right
and a little behind your knee) so helpful? It is a great way to give your dog a "job" on the walk,
which helps them understand what's expected consistently.

NOT heel. When your dog's head is out in front of

your knee, it makes it much easier for them to make
bad decisions. Like reacting to things or pulling you
toward your neighbors. Like the neighborhood
watch. Alert. Eager to make all the decisions.

The heel command looks like this. Slightly

behind your knee or parallel to it. This position
makes it much easier for your dog to get into
follower mode, and make better decisions.

Before getting started:

1. Watch our E Collar Heel
videos. This will help you
understand what we are
doing with the E Collar
when layering it over this
command.
2. It is helpful to use a prong collar during this exercise.
Your dog will feel the E Collar sensation from the neck,
and I've found it beneficial to give leash guidance from
the same area. Unlike a harness, when leash guidance
comes from the chest or back. You could also use a slip
lead leash if you'd like.

31
 KINDERGARTEN PHASE: E COLLAR HEEL

You are MOLDING the walk. You will be using the movement of your body and leash guidance as you
layer E Collar pressure over this command. Here's the thing - at first, I don't want you to say "heel."
Please let the E Collar pressure and leash do the talking. At the beginning of this exercise, the word
heel doesn't mean much. You could say pizza, and it wouldn't matter. We want to add that when your
dog is more focused on you. I'll let you know when it's time to add this new word. Please note that
doing this initially in a low distraction area is recommended.

1. Start at your dog's working level. You

will do one of two things: continuous
taps or continuous pressure - depending
on your dog and what works best. Some
dogs are much more sensitive to
continuous pressure, and that's when I
go to the taps instead.
2. When your dog starts to walk out ahead of
you, you will give continuous pressure
with the E Collar and some leash guidance
back to you. When your dog gets into the
position, you would like, mark with "good!"
Your finger comes off the button when
your dog gets there.

Do you need to dial up? For some dogs, the working level works great during
this exercise, and for others, not so much. Go ahead and dial up one to two
levels to find one that feels smoother. You may need to dial up a little each
time to find this level. I once heard a trainer say, 'you will find a level that
feels buttery.' If you feel like you are relying too much on the leash for
guidance, dial up to find a level that feels "buttery."

3. You will do this repeatedly, giving continuous pressure (or taps) until your dog starts to understand
what you're asking. When your dog gets into that "buttery" mode (which will more than likely take
multiple sessions), you will start to add in the word heel. Each time your dog gets into the position
you want, your finger comes off the button, and that's when you mark it with "heel."

32
 TIPS WHEN TEACHING HEEL

The walk is not a straight line. Instead of walking straight the entire time, try side-stepping to the right,
left, or backward when teaching this command. Think of your body like a magnet. Wherever you move,
your dog should follow with you.

Start indoors. Outdoors equals more distractions and usually higher levels on the E Collar. If you
aren't ready for that, start indoors. And you don't even need a ton of space. Walk around your home
while layering the E Collar pressure over leash guidance.

How do I know if my dog understands what "heel" means? A great way to tell is when you're walking,
step sideways as you give some slack in the leash and say "heel." If your dog understands, they will move
with you into that position. If not, do some more reps with the continuous E Collar pressure, layering it
over the command with leash guidance.

PROMPTING PHASE: E COLLAR HEEL

Double tap time. One of the times I use a double tap on the E Collar is this phase of heel work. When
you're walking, move to the right (or left if your dog is on your right side), say "heel," and then double-
tap with some leash guidance towards you at the same time.

What level should I be at for this phase? Your level will still be around the working level. The double
tap is like a reminder. As if you're saying, "hey, over here, bud!" You're not correcting for anything. You
are still teaching what the E Collar pressure means for this command.

33
 ACCOUNTABILITY PHASE: E COLLAR HEEL

FAQ: Ok, now my dog understands what heel means, but continues to push the position. Help!

E Collar tap plus a leash pop simultaneously. Dial-up 10-15 above your dog's working level. Timing
is essential with this. You want to tap and give a leash pop BEFORE your dog passes your knee. As
soon as they start creeping up to push that boundary, that is when you would tap and give a leash
pop at the same time. This level might not be enough, so dialing up a little each time helps. Doing
this will help you find a level that means enough at that moment. How do you know if that level
means enough? You won't have to tap on the E Collar as much. You were clear about the boundary,
and your dog understood.

The following method is helpful when I have difficulty finding a meaningful level with a
dog. I usually try the E Collar tap plus a leash pop first, but if a dog is a little extra pushy,
this exercise helps.

Dial-up method. Some dogs are so distracted while walking that you need more than the working
level to provide some clarity. When your dog walks ahead of you, start at the working level, press
and hold for continuous pressure as you slowly dial-up. Give light leash pressure back towards
you simultaneously to be clear about where you want your dog to go. As soon as your dog returns
to the heel position, your finger comes off the button. You can either say "good" or "heel" to mark
that position. Stay at this new level you dialed up to, and as soon as your dog gets up to the
invisible boundary you don't want your dog to cross (I like to think of a fence at my knees), you will
give one tap at that level with a leash pop backward. You don't have to say anything. Doing this
helps you rely more on the leash guidance and E Collar pressure. You're providing clarity with the
tools. Just enough information with the leash to help them understand what you want them to do
instead. This method helps you find a motivating level for your dog, hopefully leading to less
tapping and nagging at lower levels.

34
 HEEL COMMAND FAQ

Does my dog have to understand heel, or can I introduce the E Collar with the heel command? Your
dog does not have to know the heel position, and yes, you can use this command to introduce the
E Collar pressure. Think of layering the E Collar pressure over leash guidance when introducing the
heel command as "molding the walk." At first, I'm not saying the word heel. More than anything, I'm
using E Collar pressure to motivate a dog to move into that position with light leash guidance. It's
not until a bit later that I introduce the word "heel."

Should my dog give me eye contact while working on heel? I am not too worried about eye contact
when teaching heel, and I'm more interested in getting a dog to focus on the position. Once you get
into a good space with the heel command, you can work on eye contact later.

What should I do when my dog marks and sniffs constantly? Your dog should focus on the heel
position instead of the distractions around them. When first teaching heel, ideally, you want to start at
the working level, but if your dog keeps pulling towards the ground to sniff, you will likely need a
higher level to say no to that. For example: If your dog's working level is 10, I will dial up to 15 or 20 and
tap as soon as they try to sniff the ground. You don't have to say anything when doing this. Then dial
back down to 10 and start your heel work. Once you make it clear that something as small as sniffing
the ground isn't ok at that time, the easier it will be to get them focused on the heel command.

What to do when your dog stops and won't keep walking? I like to use the dial-up method for this.
Walk out a few feet away from your dog. Press and hold on to the red button with continuous pressure
while slowly dialing up and saying, "come." Start at your dog's working level, and your finger comes off
the button as soon as your dog heads in your direction. Doing this exercise is a great way to find a level
that motivates your dog enough to move with you. Be sure to dial back down to the level you initially
started with on your walk.

Do you give treats/food during the walk? I usually don't when working with a reactive dog, which is
the majority of dogs that come through our program. Most dogs are excited on the walk, and food
usually gets them even more excited. That's not what I'm going for when working on heel. That
being said, everything depends on the dog in front of me. If I'm working with a mellow dog, I might
use food to pep them up or reward them for things like sitting when I stop. You can always try to use
food and see how your dog responds. Do they get super excited, and you want them to chill out on
the walks while working on reactivity? Then food or treats might not be best.

35
How do you distinguish between "free-roaming" while on a leash when they would typically be in
the heel position? I like to use the word "break" to differentiate between heel and breaks to sniff or
go potty. I walk towards the grass, say "break!" and give some leash guidance into the grass. Do this
consistently, and your dog will pick up on it. When first working on heel, break times are only for
potty breaks. I want to clarify that walks are much more structured now, and staying consistent with
expectations help.

What if the dog is in the heel, but its ears are perked up and constantly scanning - what should I do?
You can use the E Collar as an interrupter. Try giving a double tap around your working level
(usually a little lower than correction level) and say "heel" with a leash pop backward. What you are
saying is, hey! No monkey business. Focus on your job. You can dial up a little each time to repeat
this exercise and see if it helps your dog relax a bit. We are trying to clarify expectations BEFORE any
outbursts, and ears perked up, or scanning is usually a precursor to bad choices. Giving E Collar
information during these moments should help your dog deescalate and lead to a much calmer walk.

IF YOU ARE STRUGGLING WITH REACTIVITY, PLEASE BE SURE TO CHECK OUT OUR
REACTIVE DOG HANDBOOK TO LEARN HOW TO USE THE E COLLAR ON WALKS

Is there a specific side to teach heel? I like

to have a dog on my left so I can hold the
E Collar in my right hand. Whichever side
works best for you.

When should I be saying "no," and when should I say "heel?" I like to say "heel" when I'm reinforcing
the command. Example: If I move to the side, I will say heel. If my dog is in a down-stay and I want to
continue walking, I will say heel - whenever I want to continue moving on the walk. If I am correcting
for reactivity, I will say no. Honestly, try not to focus so much on what you're saying. Focus on your
actions and energy.

How often should my dog be in the heel command compared to being able to sniff and have some
free time? When you first work on this, I would go by the 90/10 rule - 90% of the time, your dog
should be in the heel position and 10% sniffing. The more you work with your dog, the more free
time they can have. Just be sure not to give too much freedom too soon. In my experience, dogs need
clear boundaries to understand new expectations. Consistency with the heel command's expectation
up front will make giving your dog more freedom much easier.

36
 PLACE
COMMAND

37
 THE PLACE
COMMAND
This is a magical command. The off switch. Doggy Meditation. Place is my FAVORITE command and the
number one thing people ask me about, so let's get into it! I'll show you how to use the E Collar to create
clear boundaries, stop the whining and get the most out of this magical command.

Should I expect my dog to relax right away when incorporating place duration?
No. Relaxing on place takes time. Initially, you are trying to get your dog used to being on their bed and
staying there. Most dogs want to get off or sit instead of lying down, which is typical. What I would start
doing is pattern the down command into your place command sessions. Or ask for a down each time you
put your dog on place. It makes a big difference when you are consistent with this micro routine.

FAQ: Why the raised cot instead of a

normal cozy dog bed? The raised cot
provides super clear boundaries.
Dogs have to step on and step off. This
makes PLACE very clear.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

One of the most important things you can do

when starting with the place command is to be
consistent with micro routines throughout
your day. Example: post walk place time. The
more consistent you are with things like this,
the easier it will be for your dog to hang out
and relax on it. Consistency is everything.

38
Initially, I like to walk up to the edge of the place cot during active sessions to be clear when layering the
E Collar over place. If you want to start challenging your dog more, you will walk a foot or two past the
cot. Doing this will be tempting, and your dog will probably want to follow you off - a great moment to
add some clarity to the command.

What it looked like

And now when you

walk past place

How am I using the E Collar for this? Now that we are in the Accountability Phase I want you to dial
up 5 to 10 above your working level. Be ready to tap once if your dog walks off of place as you walk
past it. Say "no," tap on the E Collar and guide back to place. Each time you do this, dial up one to
two levels. Doing this will help you find a meaningful level for your dog. Take a look at the schedule
for days six and seven to see how we do this.

My dog is whining on place. Can I correct this? Yes. I like to do this initially by double tapping at
lower levels. Keep in mind that when you first start using the E Collar for this, your dog may try to
get off of place, which is normal. Go over and guide your dog back to place. Ask for a sit or down.
Start at the working level, double tap, and dial-up one to two levels for another double tap if she
continues to whine. Some dogs respond well to this, while others fight it like a temper tantrum.
The most important thing is to take a deep breath and stay calm. Getting frustrated with with your
dog will only make things worse. With some dogs, I will let them whine it out on place and wait to see
if they settle after a few minutes. You might want to try that as well. Check out our place duration
tips pages for a more detailed look at how we do this.

39
PLACE DURATION TIPS

40
PLACE DURATION TIPS
What exactly is it?
Duration on place is when a dog is on place with the expectation of doing nothing for ten minutes or
longer. Think of it like doggy meditation. I like to encourage owners to work up to the duration of a
good movie (around two hours).

Tether the leash

Doing this helps initially, so you can guide

them back on when your dog gets off of
place, which they inevitably will. It's okay
if they get off in the beginning since this is
all new. A tethered leash makes it so they
can't get that far away from place when
they do. You can tether it to a doorknob,
something heavy like the feet of a couch, or
heavy weight.

Ask for a sit vs. down

Down is one of the most challenging commands to teach. Initially, I would ask your dog to sit since most
dogs understand that command. Sitting is preferred to standing on place.

Start duration after an active session

I would add in duration (10-30 minutes) when you're starting

after actively working with your dog. Start with an active
session (like the ones I describe in the Schedule section) and
follow it up with duration. This way, your dog is a little tired
before having them hang out on place.

41
PLACE DURATION TIPS
Can I use the E Collar when first starting out with place?
Yes! You can use it for a number of things after your initial E Collar intro session.

You can use the E Collar when your dog starts whining,
barking, biting at their leash, or chewing on the place cot.
One of the many reasons I like to follow up an active session
with place duration (aim for 30 minutes). If I use it to
interrupt whining or other things listed, I want the dog to
understand what the E Collar pressure means - this is crucial.
You don't have to wait two weeks before interrupting the
barking or whining, but an initial session is helpful.

Please remember that initial place duration sessions will be

tough for most dogs. Even when using the E Collar to say no
things like whining or barking, your dog will not become a
"place pro" after one session. Think of initial E Collar work
during these sessions as a beginning - and each time you
incorporate these more extended periods on place, your dog
will get better at it.

INITIALLY, HOW TO
USE THE E COLLAR
WHEN YOUR DOG IS WHINING

Please ensure your dog has a leash on and is

tethered to something before moving forward.

Many dogs are a bit whiney when on place initially. Sometimes I will let them whine it out without
trying to interrupt it. But if your dog continues to whine and it is getting them worked up, I would
recommend interrupting using the E Collar. Start at the working level and give a double-tap on the
red button. I like to pair a double-tap with things like this when using lower levels.

42
PLACE DURATION TIPS
Depending on your dog, how you use the E Collar can amp them up more - so I want you to ask
yourself which one of these two sounds more like your dog.

INTENSE MILD
This kind of whining is much
This kind of whining
louder and as if it's about to
is a bit more subtle
turn into barking. It gets
and consistent. It is
louder and louder each time
like a low whisper.
the dog whines - getting them
more worked up each time.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

Some of you will have a tough time deciding which

category your dog falls under - and that's ok! It is hard
to tell with some dogs, even for me as a trainer. I
encourage you to go with your gut instead of worrying
that you will get it wrong. Just try. That's the only way
to find out what will be most helpful for your dog.

6 Usually, giving a double-tap around the working level helps with dogs that are

The
mini
educator

a bit milder with their whining. You can dial up a level or two if the first couple
of taps does not slow down the whining. Sometimes, I will wait it out with dogs

Mild whose whining is slightly more subtle. Give a double-tap around the working
level to help them settle, and then let them whine a little more without
Dog addressing it. These dogs usually settle on their own, and the whining
disappears. You have to wait it out. I'm generally not a fan of that, but initially,
for some dogs, that can be the best way.

Remember, this is the initial stage of place duration. The expectation should be
introducing and exposing your dog to this new thing. Expecting your dog to settle
right away is not a realistic expectation. You'll get there! But it takes some time.

43
PLACE DURATION TIPS

The Intense Whiner

When whining is more intense, I usually need a higher level to interrupt it. When starting, I would
dial up about five higher than the working level and tap once on the E Collar. You may need to dial
up a little more, but don't keep tapping and dialing up -this might get your dog more worked up.

Notice how your dog responds to your level and ask yourself, is this helpful or not? If not, take a
breath. You don't have to keep tapping on the E Collar whenever your dog whines. If your dog
continues to whine, I want you to dial up a little higher than the last time you tapped - start with five
more. Say "no" and tap on the E Collar. Stay calm. Getting worked up will not help your dog calm
down.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

Come back to the expectations of what you are doing. I know so

many of you struggle with perfection when doing this because
you think us trainers get it perfect, and you must be doing
something wrong - - none of us get this perfect. And if it's feeling
a little messy, you're doing it. That's how it sometimes goes,
which is why I'm adding this tip here - you are not alone. Take a
deep breath, return to the initial expectations, and anticipate the
pushback because this is all new to your dog. Whining, in the
beginning, is pretty standard.

Remember to use the E Collar when working on this stuff because you are looking for subtle shifts in
your dog's mindset. When a dog is allowed to keep whining, it's like they are on a hamster wheel - going
and going, round and round. The E Collar helps us stop that wheel - if only for a moment - which allows
a dog to calm down sooner rather than later.

44
PART TWO
EXTRA TIPS

45
 SINGLE TAP, DOUBLE OR CONTINUOUS

CONTINUOUS E COLLAR PRESSURE: WHEN DO I USE THIS?

This is when you press and hold on the red button.

KINDERGARTEN PHASE THE DIAL-UP METHOD RECALL

When you are layering the
E Collar pressure over
different commands. The
continuous pressure at
lower levels is a great way
to teach your dog what this
new pressure is and how to
turn it off.
When your dog puts on the
breaks, using continuous
pressure while dialing up
simultaneously is a great
way to find a level that
means enough to motivate
your dog to keep moving
with you.
Using the dial up method is a
great way to find a level that
means enough to your dog when
they are distracted by something
else. The continuous pressure
helps you give as much E Collar
information as needed in that
particular moment.

DOUBLE-TAP ON THE E COLLAR: WHEN DO I USE THIS?

Tap-tap on the red button.

PAIR IT WITH DOWN WHEN ON PLACE INITIAL HEEL WORK

I love pairing a double tap
with the down command. A
great way to start is by having
your dog on place, leash on,
double tap and guide with the
leash downward and reward
with some food or a high
value treat.
I like to double tap on the
remote at lower levels when
a dog is on place and excited.
Kind
When of like
On aPlace
reminder to
relax. When you work on
pairing it with the down
command, it becomes a great
way to reinforce it on place.
Double tap equals down.
When initially working on
heel, I like to use a double
tap vs. continuous pressure.
Ex: we are walking and I
move to the right, say "heel"
and pair a double tap with
some leash guidance
simultaneously.

Inside Scoop: I think I started using the double tap simply because
it felt suitable for me at a particular moment. I'm not sure if it's
something many trainers do, but I have found that it is helpful for
down on place or pairing it with heel on the walk. Especially when
I'm first starting to pair the E Collar with the heel command.

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SINGLE E COLLAR TAP: WHEN DO I DO THIS?
One tap on the red button.
PROMPTING PHASE
I primarily start pairing a
single tap with commands
during the Prompting
Phase. I'm still teaching
what this new pressure
means, but trying to get
away from having to use
continuous pressure.
CORRECTIONS
I like to use a single tap at a
level that is meaningful to be
like, HEY! A single tap is a
great way to be super clear
about something. Continuous
pressure at a higher level
would probably be too much.
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 Should I use food?
This is one of the most common questions I get about E Collar training. Should I
reward with food? Here are some ways to tell if food is helping you or not.

Does your dog get excited when you use

food to reward for things? Was your training
mainly reward based
There is a time and place for excited behavior before getting into
(like an off-leash recall, for example), but when E Collar work?
you're first working on things like place, heel, or
down, the last thing we want is for our dog to bounce
First of all, awesome job on
all over the place. If your dog gets overly excited
creating a great foundation!
when using food as a reward, it might be time to
Rewarding for behaviors we
phase it out.
want MORE OF is a great start.
The thing about E Collar
training is we can hold our dogs
Does your dog have selective accountable for things they
hearing when you don't have food? know without depending on
treats. Start to use food for a
I hear this a lot from owners: my dog knows reward every now and then.
everything but will only do it for food. If this is you, This will keep your dog guessing
it is probably time to start expecting more from your and help you phase out the food
dog without food as a reward. rewards if that's something you
would like to do.

Other ways to reward: Affection, words of encouragement, or the walk-in itself is a reward. A
calmer state of mind is the reward. A bigger, beautiful life with new adventures is the reward.
Food is not the only thing you can use as a reward. Think bigger. Don't undervalue how
much your calm "good girl" means to your dog.

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 WHAT IF I WANT TO
TRAIN MULTIPLE DOGS?
FAQ: DO I NEED ONE REMOTE FOR EACH DOG?

I work with owners who prefer one remote for each dog and others who like one remote for two
dogs. I personally prefer one remote for two dogs, but I'm also very comfortable using the
E Collar. Some owners are nervous they will tap on the wrong button for the wrong dog. It
takes a little time to get used to. Also consider how many people will be walking your dogs. Do
you have a partner that will be going for walks with you? Maybe two separate remotes would
be best. Think about your lifestyle and what makes the most sense for you.

** Note: You can always turn one remote into a two-dog remote if you
ever change your mind. Look at your manual to find out how.

THE TWO-DOG SYSTEM

Instead of the M/C you will see on a

one-dog remote system, you will see
either a C or M on your two-dog remote Dog one:
Dog two:
- the red button is for one dog and the black
red button
black button for the other. As a result, button
you can only have both buttons set to
Continuous or Momentary
simultaneously.

WORK WITH ONE DOG AT A TIME

I recommend you work with one dog at a time
and put the others away in their kennels
(ideal) or another room/outside. Doing this
will make it much easier for each dog to focus
on you during the training sessions.

49
 PART THREE
RECALL

50
 The off-leash progression
1 shorter leash first 2 progression: loosen the leash

3 start long-line work 4 work on heel w/ more leash

5 Practice off-leash skills with distractions

like a sit/stay or downstay recalling to you with distractions

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 The off-leash progression
Follow these steps to reach your off-leash goals!
Charlie Sadie Theo
Louie
One
It all starts with the walk.
& a shorter leash
The first thing I recommend working on is
getting your dog to walk in heel, next to you,
with a shorter leash. E Collar heel is my go-to
for this. Start to work on getting your dog to
walk nicely beside you, and you will be that
much closer to off-leash fun.
Three
Switch out shorter leash
for a long-line 15-20 feet
Long-line work is a great way to have fun with
your dog when working on off-leash skills. If
your dog understands the expectations with a
shorter leash (heel command), this progression is
your next step.
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For me, everything comes back to the walk with a
shorter leash. It's an indication of how off-leash
training will go. Does your dog walk nicely next to you
with a shorter leash? Is your dog reactive? Do they
chase squirrels?
All of this matters. Off-leash won't make things better -
it will only magnify the issues you are currently having.
But, don't worry - there's a path to follow that will lead
you to off-leash fun, and it's the Walking Dog Method.
Two
Loosen the leash. tighter
leash
Give some extra leash to allow
more freedom for your dog to
see what kind of decisions they
will make. This will help you looser
see if your dog truly knows leash
what "heel" means, and if they
are following along with you -
which is important for off-
leash work.
You can start by holding some of the long-line in
your hand while letting part of it drag or hang
loosely like a shorter leash. The more confident
you get with this, the more you can let the long-
line drag on the ground.
 The off-leash progression

FOUR Long-Line Heel Work

Like you did with the shorter leash, see how your dog
does when they have more freedom. Remember, we are
working towards off-leash reliability, so it's essential to
ensure your dog understands that even though they
have more freedom, expectations are still the same.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

So, how do you know if you are ready to let your

dog off-leash? Check out our Off-Leash Checklist
to prepare both you and your dog.

6
mini
Here's what I tell owners I work with:
educator

Most owners ask, 'how do I know if my dog is ready to be

off-leash?' But I encourage you to consider this question:
Are YOU ready? How confident do you feel dialing up on
the E Collar if you need to? That is more important than if
your dog is ready. When thinking about off-leash stuff,
check in with yourself. How are you feeling? If you're
ready, great! And if you think you need more practice
around distractions with the long-line, excellent. Do what
feels right for you.

53
 The off-leash progression

The off leash Check List

Start by having a long-line leash on your dog; when you feel more in control, you can drop it for them to
drag around. Doing this is helpful for any moments when your dog is confused, and you can easily pick
up the leash to guide them through it. A good length for this is 15-20 feet, and I also like to do this with a
shorter slip-lead leash if I'm not quite ready for long-line work.

Since we are preparing for off-leash reliability when

using the long-line, I want you to try doing this with
your dog walking in heel "off-leash" beside you, which is
an important skill to practice. It can be a loose heel -
this does not have to be perfect.

from the kennel to their place cot/bed

place to the back door before going outside up and down the driveway

walking with you around your home around your backyard

from the front door to your car up and down your street

the car to your front door car door to your front door

walk around your dog's favorite toys from outside, to inside, and onto place

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP Around some distractions

Not quite ready for the long-line, but recall away from other dogs
want some extra practice with heel?
Use this checklist and try it with your recall away from squirrels
shorter leash, but challenge yourself to
keep it loose. It's a great way to add in long-line dragging on the ground, get
some freedom for your dog to see what your dog to walk in heel next to you
kind of decisions they will make. without giving leash guidance

54
 The off-leash progression
Add in some Before I can truly trust a dog being off-leash, I like to ensure we get
around some distractions when working with a long-line. I like to do
distractions this at a park or somewhere a little busier.

Check list

recall away from other dogs

recall away from squirrels

long-line dragging on the ground, get

your dog to walk in heel next to you
without giving leash guidance

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

Use some space when you start to add in more

distractions. For instance, if your dog is
reactive, you don't have to be super close to
other dogs to see if your dog will recall to you
around them. Sometimes the sight of them is
enough for you to see how your dog will
respond.
Off-Leash Check-In Question

When your dogs are given some freedom to make more choices around distractions, how do they respond to
you with recall? Do they listen or blow you off?

Using the long-line with your dog helps you figure this out. Even if your dog pulls you toward another dog
and you can't dial-up on the E Collar fast enough, it's good to know. It helps you feel more prepared the next
time your dog sees a distraction. What levels did you use last time? Check-in with yourself to make the next
time you try a new level to see if that is a bit more meaningful for the moment.

55
 The Tone Function
This is such a fun function to incorporate into your training.

What exactly is it?

The button
with a "T"
The tone is a sound - whereas the STIM on it
(levels 1-100) is the pressure your dog
feels. When tone is paired with the STIM,
you start to create much more clarity in all
situations. Like adding another tool to
your toolbox. I've found that dogs respond
well to this feature.

When do you use it? For recall

I love to pair tone with recall - when introducing the STIM at a

dog's working level. I will start with a short leash for guidance
and use my body movement to encourage a dog to come
towards me when they hear this new sound.

The Walk

I also like to pattern the pairing of tone with heel,

like a mini version of recall. It's a great way to
reinforce coming with you on the walk. Your dog is
on break to go potty - tap on tone- heel! Then off-
leash recall when using tone is even more precise
because you've also been using it on the walk.

56
Situations that are great for tone

Let's go!
On the walk, in your home, when working on recall outside - any
time you want your dog to get moving with you, tone is helpful. I
especially like to use this when working on off-leash stuff with
dogs. I will pair a tap on tone with "let's go" to get a dog to
continue coming with me in the same direction.

Recall to place
Once you teach your dog what tone means, it's a great addition to the
place command. I recently started to incorporate tone when working
on place with dogs, and I've found that it adds a little extra clarity
when working through it. I will say "place" paired with a tap-tap-tap
on the tone button, plus leash guidance onto place. After a few
sessions, I will do the same thing ("say place with a tap-tap-tap on the
tone), and I have found that they get it a bit quicker. Worth adding to
your routine if you haven't already!

Long line work - tone equals come to me

Pairing a sound with recall is a fun way to add extra clarity when
working with dogs. When they realize that STIM follows the tone
sound, it makes recall a bit more non-negotiable.

Tone encourages movement

It's a great way to encourage your dog to move with you or recall. I find that some owners use tone
instead of the STIM in situations that create a "bluff." Meaning that you use tone (the sound) to
interrupt barking or reactivity instead of following through with STIM - which leads to bluffing
and a dog that won't take you seriously. I want to encourage you to play around with tone and see
what works best for you and your dogs, but tone differs from the STIM. Try to stick to tone for the
movement stuff as listed above.

57
 HOW TO GET STARTED
Very similar to how I introduce the STIM.

You can layer tone over leash guidance when working on place (as you walk up to the place cot), on
the walk when you want your dog to move into the heel position, or with the long-line leash when
working on recall. It's similar to how I layer E Collar pressure over leash guidance with the STIM.
Try adding it to your next session and see how you like it.

6
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When comparing to how I introduce STIM, with tone I have found that dogs
TONE respond well to continuous taps instead of continuous pressure. If your dog is
a bit nervous when they hear the tone sound (this can happen) I would try taps
TIP instead of continuous pressure on the tone button.

Have a leash on. No fleeing.

This is so important. Please do Take away the option of your
not introduce tone or the E Collar dog running off when they get
without a leash. It's helpful to nervous. One of the very best
give your dog guidance through things you can do in those
the moments when they are a bit sticky moments is give leash
nervous about this. guidance and work through it.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

What if my dog is scared of the sound? I know it can be scary for owners when their dog becomes
nervous when you are using the E Collar. I have the experience to lean on when this happens,
but it can be nerve-wracking for you. When this happens, I want you to do the following:

HOW TO WORK THROUGH IT

If your dog is nervous about the tone, give leash guidance to walk with
you around your home. Use your body movement and leash guidance
to help your dog forget their nerves. Movement is essential for these
moments. Have some fun moving around, and then introduce a
couple of taps of tone while walking around. Please don't make a big
thing of it. Your dog won't notice what's happening when you do it.
Keep moving around. Every now and then, give a couple of taps and
then no more for 30 seconds or so.

58
How To Use
The E Collar
for recall
you can find your recall videos inside the video guide

I will take you through the phases of how I teach this, from the beginning with a shorter leash to
the end with a long-line leash dragging. Once your dog understands recall, look at the Off-Leash
Progressions pages to see how you can keep progressing towards your goals. I'm so excited for
you! Let's dive in.

What you
will need slip lead leash or prong & leash

Place Cot or Bed

E Collar 6
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Yay! This
is so fun!

*optional - food to reward

for coming to you

Kindergarten Phase
6
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We will use tone and the STIM at your dog's
working level. I like to use the place
command as a target to work off of, but you
can also use a dog bed. Very similar to how I
initially introduced the E Collar, with a few
new things added into your session. The
tone function is my go-to for recall, and since
this is the Kindergarten stage, we will go over
the basics of using it for recall.
This is what
shows up when
you use Tone.
When using Tone, we will use both
continuous pressure and continuous
taps, and I will specify when to use both.
Some dogs respond better to taps than
continuous pressure and being open to
trying both will help you get the most
out of this work.

59
 How much leash
guidance do you need?
If your dog is already past
you and you're using more
leash pressure than
E Collar pressure, try again
and tap on the E Collar
when your dog starts to
move closer to you like you
see in step two.
tighter This is great when initially
leash working with your dog using
the E Collar or tone. E Collar
plus clear leash guidance is so
helpful in the beginning stages.
looser This change is subtle, but will
leash
help get you that much closer
to your off-leash goals. Add in
some looser leash moments to
see how your dog responds.

INTUITIVE OWNER TIP

You can always give more leash guidance when needed. Challenge yourself to loosen the leash
when starting to work on recall. If your dog seems a bit confused, or needs extra guidance, shorten
the leash (like the picture above) to add clarity to the E Collar.

How For the sequence below, I recommend practicing it for at least 5-10 minutes each day
many until your dog responds more to the E Collar than leash guidance. You can add
reps? progressions to move closer to off-leash each time you practice this.

1. 2.
Start position Come! Tap-tap-tap on
Standing with leash in your hand the tone button
and your dog on place.
Start to move backwards as
you do this. You can give
leash guidance if needed at
this moment.
3.
Throw a little party
This is a great time to let your
dog know how happy you are
that they are coming your way.
I normally say "good!" Or yes!
Use words that feel right for you.

How do I reward when working on recall?

You can use food (your dog's meals), high-value treats, or reward with
affection when your dog comes to you. If food gets your dog too excited, try
using your affection instead. We do it all the time, and it's highly effective!

60
Place! Tap-tap-tap :tone: Guide back on Start position
Remember that tone encourages Back to the beginning to start
Reward with
movement, so pairing it with "place" again. Your dog does not
a calm, "good"
when walking back to the cot/bed is a have to be sitting or in a
when they get
great way to encourage your dog to get down when doing this. You
back on place.
back on. can always work up to that.

Stand up straight when recalling your dog off of place. It's a

#1 progression small change that will help you see if your dog is responding to
the E Collar, or to your body movement.

Come! Tap-tap-tap on

the tone button

Start to move backwards as you do
this. Try without any leash guidance
1. 2. to see how your dog does.

Drop the leash. I would recommend going back to getting down

#2 progression low as you back away to encourage your dog without the leash.

1. 2. 3.
Come! Tap-tap-tap on Encourage your dog Throw a little party

the tone button I will usually say, "Yeah! Good

boy!" You can also give a few
more taps on tone.

61
How To Use
The E Collar
w/ the long line
Most owners ask, 'How do I know if my dog is ready to be
off-leash?' But I encourage you to think about this
question: Are YOU ready? How confident do you feel
dialing up on the E Collar if you need to? When thinking
about off-leash stuff, check in with yourself. How are you
feeling? If you're ready, great! And if you think you need
more practice around distractions with the long line, that's
ok too. Do what feels right for you.

Think of the E Collar as a way to keep your dog in your "bubble"

The bubble is like a perimeter around you - mine is usually about 15-20 feet around me - about the length
of my go-to the long-line I am using. When the dog gets to the perimeter of that boundary, I will tap on the
E Collar (red button) to say, 'hey - don't cross this line.' A clear boundary. I will bounce between the STIM
(red button) and tone depending on what I want the dog to do. If I want to add clarity - STIM - and if I want
to encourage movement - TONE.

And remember, TONE encourages movement and STIM is for adding clarity.

62
Sequence Of Commands for off leash
Break Come Heel Let's Go Sit/Down
free time to I like for this to if you want when you want if stationary,
sniff or go mean come TO ME. your dog to your dog to come giving your dog
potty Not come to me walk next to with you, but not a job is helpful
and zoom past you, say this in heel
6
mini
educator tone 6
mini
educator tone 6
mini
educator tone

You don't
need the e You are using the
collar for tone to
this If your dog Give a few taps encourage your
command. usually zooms on the tone dog to move
Start by past you, button when you along with you.
giving leash anticipate it and say "heel" and This is a looser
guidance be ready to tap then follow command. You
over to the on the red button through with the want your dog to
grass if your with a level that STim if you need follow along
dog doesn't will slow your to hold your dog with you in your
fully dog down a bit. accountable for "bubble."
understand it. Much like
what this when they are on
means. a shorter leash
for a walk.
Easy
I like to pair this
word with a few
taps on the e
collar when I
want a dog to
slow down

63
 "no"
6
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educator tap on red button

"come"

6
tap tap
on tone
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You can have your dog walk in

heel or have them walk loosely
in your bubble

Any time your dog

gets too far out of
your bubble, you "no"
can say "no" with a
tap on the red
6
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educator
tap on red
button or tap tap on button
the tone button as a
signal to come back
your way.
"let's go!"
6
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tap tap
on tone

64
WHEN GUESTS
COME OVER

65
 When guests come over
6
When you start to address reactivity in your home, the levels you use are an important piece of this exercise.
mini
educator
In the Accountability Phase and that is a great starting point for this training (10-15 above your dog's
working level). When working through reactivity towards guests in your home you can always start there,
but prepare yourself to dial up each time if needed. Meaningful levels are crucial for this exercise. Take
note of the levels you use so you know where to start for the next time.

Having guests over is something a lot of owners struggle with. When I get a
new training dog in, one of the top goals I hear (after reactivity on the
walks) is owners want their dog to be calm when guests come over. I always
love this goal, because I have some go-to things that I know will help each
dog I work with. It's a system, and when all the parts are in place, it gets a
little easier every time.

Please keep in mind that not all dogs are created the same and they may
need a different approach than someone else's dog. I'm going to mention a
few things you can try, and based on your dog, one thing may work better
than the other. This does not make your dog "bad," or say anything about
you as an owner - it's how it goes sometimes.

Step One
Give your dog a job.
Whether your dog gets excited around guests, or is nervous about
them - all dogs thrive with clear guidance in this situation.

Kennel or Place
Step Two
Set up the situation to practice.
Dogs are smart, but they are not THAT smart. I say with love.
When your dog is either in the kennel or on place (with their leash
tethered to something) I want you to pretend someone is at the
front door, or walking in, so you can practice with the E Collar
before your guests arrive.

66
I want you to crack the front door open and knock on the door or
ring your doorbell. Before doing this, have your E Collar in hand
and set to a meaningful level.

You should be ready to follow through with a tap on the E Collar

if they bark, boof (this is a much more subtle bark, but still
something we want to address), or getting off of of place.
Timing is essential to setting the tone before your guests arrive.

Knock on the door or ring the doorbell, and if your dog does react
in any way you don't want, say "no" and tap on the E Collar. Dial
up a little bit in case you have to tap again.

And now I want you to act your heart out.

"Hello! Oh, hi! It's so nice to see you! Thank you for coming over!"

Empowered Owner Tip

You empower yourself by practicing this scenario. It gives
you the chance to work through things your dogs might
need some extra help with. I do this with our personal dogs
all the time. Before an owner comes over for a go-home
session, I knock on the door to see how they will react. They
are pretty good about this by now, but it never hurts to keep
that expectation fresh. Trainers do it all the time. For
example, before go-home sessions, some trainers will do a
"walk through" with the dog. Going over things the dogs
have learned. Like a rehearsal, and it's a great way to boost
your confidence before your guests arrive.

step
three Be prepared.
Have your E Collar in hand and ready to follow through if needed. Timing is important. You will either use
it to interrupt any barking/whining, or to hold your dog accountable for the down command. You can also
use the E Collar to say no to getting off of place, but I have found it to be most helpful when you address the
smaller things that happen before they pop off of place - like whining, barking, or getting up from a down.

67
 step Address the smaller moments.
This will make a big difference.

four Don't wait for the big reaction to follow through with your E Collar. I want you
to notice the smaller things before the outburst happens - here are some
examples of the things you will be looking for:

whining growling getting up from a down letting out a low bark

Instead of waiting for the big reactions, addressing the smaller moments with
meaningful levels will help you set the tone. Meaningful level = it means
something to your dog in a particular moment. Usually, these levels will stop
your dog from continuing a certain behavior.

step
five
How to let your dog say hi to guests
So your dog has been hanging out on place, and now you want to let them say hi to your
guests - how do we do this? *Please note that your dog does not need to say hi to guests.
Having them hang out on place the entire time is great - but if your dog is the excitable
type, and you want to work through that - this is for you.

Have a leash on initially for extra guidance, release your dog from place, and walk them
over to your guest. Be ready to correct for jumping on your guest. Other than that, I
would let your dog say hi, tell your guests they can do the same, and then guide your
dog back over to place. This is a great way to reinforce calmness and work through the
excitement that happens when guests come over.

68
When guests come over Q&A
He barks and then does little grumbles continuously.
How do I stop it so he can calm down?

You can address the grumbles with the E Collar. Your level will affect how your dog responds.
Some dogs need a meaningful level (correction level) for the grumbles, while others may be ok
with lower level taps to interrupt the grumbles (around the working level or a little higher). Pay
attention to your dog, and try dialing up if needed.

An important thing to remember when you're doing this - please do not continue to tap and dial-up
if your dog continues to get worked up. That's a sign that you are "chasing the excitement," which
usually gets a dog more worked up, and that isn't helpful. Take a breath and reflect for a second.

Notice the levels you were using and how they affected your dog. Was it helpful? How did your dog
respond to lower/higher levels? Now I want you to reset. Ask your dog for "down" if they pop up,
and say no to the grumbles with a level after reflecting on the ones you used before.

Remember, your dog will show you which levels are right for the situation. Sometimes that means
a higher level for a smaller moment, and other times it's a double-tap for a grumble. Reflecting on
the levels and how your dog responded is a helpful part of this training.

This is so hard to practice, since me acting as the guest doesn't

fool our dogs. Have any advice when this is the case?

I would recommend proofing place as best you can. Take about 5-10 minutes each day, put your
dog on place, and do things like vacuuming or dancing. Throw their toys around and roll a tennis
ball across the floor. Get loud and pretend you're talking to someone. I know this isn't exactly like
having guests over, but doing this helps strengthen your dog's ability to be on place when stuff is
happening around them.

It's like when I work with a dog who loves to jump at the windows to bark at people walking by their
home. I might not be able to recreate that exact scenario, but proofing place (adding distractions
and correcting for getting off of place) is an essential piece of that puzzle. Be consistent and clear
about what you want your dogs to do, so it's a little easier for them to know what is expected.

69
When guests come over Q&A
If you use place, but eventually release - how to keep energy
down when guests are still there?

I would have a leash on, say heel instead of your break-word, and use the E Collar to slow them down. I
like to use the word "easy" for something like this. Think of it like you are interrupting their zooms. But
having a leash on for this is helpful. After you do this a few times, you can always try without the leash,
only communicating with the E Collar to see how they do.

The "EASY" command

Does your dog zoom off of place when you recall them off? A command I like to teach is "easy." I
anticipate they will zoom off like usual and prepare to follow through with a tap-tap on the red
button with a level that is slightly higher than the working level. You want it to mean enough to
slow them down. My command for releasing a dog off of place is "come" or "let's go." I'll say that
paired with a tap on the tone button, and then prepare to say "easy" with a tap-tap on the red
button. You can dial up a bit if you need to do it again. You can also use this command when
working on recall. If your dog is known to zoom past you, anticipate it, and tap-tap on the red
button when they get about 10-20 feet away from you to slow them down. Pair it with the word
"easy." Before you know it, the command will mean enough on its own.

It's so frustrating when guests work up my dog when he's in the

kennel. Tips on how to best handle this?

I know this can be frustrating, but one way to prevent that is by being transparent with your guests.
Setting boundaries with friends and family is not always easy, but neither is holding in how you
feel and getting frustrated. You can also address any barking in the kennel and use your E Collar to
say no to the barking to help your dog settle AND set boundaries with your guests.

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When guests come over Q&A
We don't have guests over often at all, so when they do it's very
difficult. Where do I start?

I would be sure to incorporate your place practice every day and start to hold your dog accountable
for it. Pretend someone is coming in by knocking on your front door and opening it to make it
sound like a guest is at your dog. Talk as if you're speaking to someone outside your home. Be ready
to follow through with the E Collar to say no to barking or popping off of place. The more you focus
on proofing place, the easier it will be for your dog to understand what is expected when you
eventually have guests over.

How do I help my dog not be so fearful of guests, even when they

ignore her? And is this normal for some dogs?

It is a shared trait for many dogs. I find with nervous dogs that giving them a job (place or the kennel) is
helpful when having guests over. The job plus exposure will help with their confidence over time. You
may also want to incorporate outings around more people. While utilizing the heel command, visiting
the park or home improvement stores may be the exposure training your dog needs.

When they come over with a dog - how can we get them to relax
together instead of playing together the whole time?

The place command would be my go-to for this, but this is only possible if both dogs have practiced
the skill. You can also tell your guest that you would like to take the dogs for a walk before visiting
indoors to drain some of their energy.

71
 training schedule
10 minutes a day
love, walking dog training

72
 FIRST SESSION NOTES
SOME DOGS ARE NERVOUS ABOUT THIS NEW TOOL INITIALLY

Nerves may look like a dog putting on the breaks and refusing to move with you when E Collar
pressure is applied. Some dogs may look "sad" or "scared," making owners feel nervous about
starting this new tool. More than likely, your dog is not scared, but they are probably unsure -
and that's where we come in. If this sounds like your dog, I want to encourage you to look at
this as an opportunity to boost your dog's confidence - because that's what it is. When you are
working at lower levels, there is nothing for your dog to be nervous about, and it is up to us to
guide our dogs through these moments to reassure them that they do not need to worry. Please
look at the following to be sure you are doing everything to set you and your dog up for success
in these initial sessions.

FEEL THE E COLLAR ON YOURSELF

Find YOUR working level. Familiarize yourself with this new tool to set your mind at ease.

HAVE A LEASH ON

Please put a leash on your dog before putting their E Collar on. Doing this will ensure that
you can guide your dog through moments when they would prefer to go into their kennel or
run under the kitchen table. Taking away these options will help you guide them to show
what you would like them to do instead.

MIX UP YOUR FIRST SESSION

If your dog seems nervous about the E Collar pressure, first try getting your dog on and off
of place without any E Collar pressure applied. Next, I want you to try a few taps at your
dog's working level when practicing the recall off of place portion of your session. I find that
applying the E Collar pressure when practicing recall compared to layering it over the place
command is preferred in these situations.

73
 START TO INCORPORATE TONE

The tone is a great way to introduce the E Collar when a dog is timid about the E Collar
pressure (the STIM - levels 1-100). Please look at the recall section to see how we do this.

TRY THE DIAL-UP METHOD

When dogs put on the breaks, I like to try this method. It's a great way to find a level
encouraging a dog to move with me. In my experience, a dog refusing to move with me is
pushy - another moment when a dog doesn't want to do what they don't want to do. I'm sure
some of you can relate. The dial-up method helps me start a new conversation using the
E Collar. Once I get a dog moving, I can dial back down to the working level to continue.

YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO THIS ALONE.

We have resources available for you if you want to talk things through, and you can ask a
question in our private Facebook group for owners - The Empowered Owner Club. We also
offer virtual owner coaching sessions where I can help you develop a game plan, so you feel
confident before going into your next session.

DOG TRAINING IS NOT ABOUT THE

THINGS YOU ARE GIVING UP BUT
ABOUT THE THINGS YOU WILL GAIN

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 Using the Place Command
Set your timer for 10 minutes and follow this schedule each day

days 1-3 Place & Recall

Kindergarten Phase

One daily 10-minute session followed up with duration on place

for 30 minutes. You can add in a second session if you'd like.

For the first few days, your focus will be on introducing the E Collar, getting your dog used to the place
command, and getting into your groove as the handler. The first few days can feel overwhelming
because different things may pop up; whining, barking, refusal to get on the place cot. Give yourself a
few days to focus on these initial steps, and please read through our First Session Notes.

A bo u t a f o ot o r tw o In the beginning,
a w a y f ro m t h e c o t sa y
onl y walk to the edge
"p l ac e" an d as so o n as
of the bed/cot. Thi s
yo u do , p res s a nd h ol d
th e r ed bu tto n
wi ll help your dog
( p res su re o n ) make the best
deci si on at thi s ti me.

Try walking a few steps past the place cot on days two and
three. If your dog gets off, say "no" and give continuous
E Collar pressure while guiding them back onto place. It may
be easier to guide your dog back to place without worrying
about the E Collar, which is fine. Reset and start over again.

Is the continuous pressure too much?

If your dog is a bit nervous about the E Collar when you press and hold with continuous pressure, try
continuous taps (place - tap, tap, tap, tap) or start incorporating TONE. Some dogs respond perfectly fine
to the continuous pressure at the working level, while others respond better to the continuous taps. I
also find that when someone is entirely new to E Collar training, incorporating TONE into the initial
sessions is great for a handler's confidence. Like the E Collar pressure (the STIM), you teach your dog
what to do when hearing this new sound.

75
 days Place work progression - less leash
Kindergarten Phase & place duration 30-45 minutes

4&5 One daily 10-minute session followed up with duration on place for 30-45 minutes.

Day four and five daily sessions are all about progression. When introducing
the E Collar, you use lots of leash guidance since the E Collar is non-directional,
and leash guidance is essential in the beginning.

Now I want you to start thinking about using less leash guidance when working
through things. Doing this helps you see if your dog understands what you want
without you being right there to guide them through every movement.

When you walk up to place, I want you to loosen your leash. If you need to give
leash guidance, that is no problem - but as soon as you give guidance, I want you
to think about loosening the leash so it goes back to being slack - doing this will
help you get the most out of your session. Moving away from leash guidance
with something like place gets you closer to off-leash fun and enjoyable walks.
All the little moments add up.

1 shorter leash first 2 progression: loosen the leash

Your leash should be a
bi t looser like thi s. It' s a
progressi on that wil l get
you that much cl oser to
not needi ng a l eash and
bei ng able to rel y on
your bl ue-tooth-leash
(the E Collar)

What if your dog is nervous about this new tool?

Leash guidance, leash guidance, leash guidance. Some dogs will
respond differently than others when introduced to the E Collar. If your
dog seems nervous, tries to run back to their kennel, or puts on the
breaks, be sure to use leash guidance to work your dog through each
moment. There is nothing for your dog to be nervous about when
working at lower levels, and I would encourage you to feel the E Collar
on yourself. It is new for both of you, so nerves are normal. Think of this
as a confidence-boosting exercise. Use leash guidance to reassure your
dog that you've got this.

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 When can I hold my dog accountable for place?
One of my favorite things about using the E Collar when working on place is its clarity. When
using the E Collar initially, you will use your dog's working level to help them understand
what to do with the new pressure (when your dog feels the E Collar). Once your dog
understands what the pressure means, you can start to dial up a bit to add clarity to the
boundaries of the place command.

Does my dog understand Does my dog understand

Questions to what the E Collar
what "place" means
ask yourself when I say it? pressure means?

I recommend you start holding your dog accountable for place on days six and seven in this
schedule. I may do this closer to day four or five for some dogs - it depends on you and your
dog. I would recommend trying the loose-leash place test. If you walk over to the place cot
with a looser leash and say "place," will your dog get on the cot without much guidance?
Doing this shows you that your dog understands this command, which is a good thing. I will
start to hold dogs accountable for place when they do this. I start about 5-10 above their
working level and add a tap-tap on the red button if they pop off of place when walking past
the cot a few steps - as I mention on the day 1-3 schedule.

Initially, holding your dog accountable for place

looks like this picture - tethering the leash to
something. You will move away from that, but for
the first week, I recommend tethering your dog's
leash to something so that when they get off of place,
they can't get that far, and doing this makes it easier
for you to guide them back on.

Once your dog is doing well with the tethered leash,

you can try not tethering but keeping the leash on just
in case you need it. You can try this whenever you'd
like, but I recommend tethering for the first week.

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 days
6&7
Add in some distance with place
Kindergarten & Prompting Phase

One daily 10-minute session followed up with duration on place for 30-45 minutes.

On days six and seven, I want you to use TONE and start to
dial up a bit in case your dog gets off of place. Depending
on your dog's sensitivity to the E Collar pressure, dial up
2-10 levels above your dog's working level.

"Place!" tap, tap, tap on the TONE button

with light leash guidance towards place.
Then I want you to walk past the place cot
and turn around to face your dog - be
ready to tap, tap on the red button if your
dog pops off of place to follow you. How did
your dog respond? If they popped back on
place, great! That is a sign they are getting
it. If you're unsure, no worries - reset and
do it again. You can dial up a few levels if
you think it would be helpful.

78
day
eight
Start to pattern down on place
Prompting & Accountability
One daily 10-minute session followed up
with duration on place for 50 min - 1 hour
day nine
Drop the leash
Prompting & Accountability
One daily 10-minute session followed up
with duration on place for 50 min - 1 hour

One of my favorite ways to incorporate the
down command is to start place with a
raised cot. Down is one of the more
challenging commands to work on, but I
find that patterning it when a dog gets on
place helps to solidify the command. If
you're going to use food to reward for
anything, I will use it for this command.
Your dog understands what place is by now, and adding
some challenges will help solidify the command.
I want you to challenge yourself in today's session AND
drop the leash as you move away. If your dog stays on
place, reward it with a calm "good" or some food.
If your dog pops off of place, I want you to say "no" and
tap once on the E Collar - the red button. Please pick up
the leash and guide them back to place with a tap, tap,
tap on the tone button. Dial up 5-10 more levels and try
again. Did your dog stay on place this time? Great! You
know that your last level meant something. And if not, no
worries. Dialing up each time will help you find a level
that means something to your dog, which leads to clear
place command boundaries.

The "EASY" command

Does your dog zoom off of place when you recall them off? A command I like to teach is "easy." I
anticipate they will zoom off like usual and prepare to follow through with a tap-tap on the red
button with a level that is slightly higher than the working level. You want it to mean enough to
slow them down. My command for releasing a dog off of place is "come" or "let's go." I'll say that
paired with a tap on the tone button, and then prepare to say "easy" with a tap-tap on the red
button. You can dial up a bit if you need to repeat the exercise. You can also use this command
when working on recall. If your dog is known to zoom past you, anticipate it, and tap-tap on the red
button when they get about 10-20 feet away from you to slow them down. Pair it with the word
"easy." Before you know it, the command will mean enough on its own.

79
 day
Start sending your dog to place
Accountability Phase

ten One daily-10 minute session followed up

with duration on place for 1 - 1 1/2 hours

Do you know how in the beginning, you walk

up to the place cot with your dog in those
initial sessions? For this session, start to leave
space between you and place each time. See
the graphic to the right for a visual. Each time
you say "place" with a tap, tap, tap on TONE, I
want you to be a little further away each time.

If your dog does not get into place and stops

right before the cot, I want you to say "no" and
tap once 10-15 above your dog's working level.
This level may be higher for some of you, but
you can always start lower first.

You may still need to give leash guidance, and that's ok.
slow Adding new challenges helps us notice what our dogs
need more help with to keep progressing. You can always
progress increase the distance a little slower in this session and
add more space the next time you work on it.
is still I do find that some dogs pick up quicker on
something when we start again the next day.
progress. So don't worry if your dog isn't getting it
during this session. Tomorrow is a new day.

day 11
Break up your One daily-10 minute session followed up
active session with duration on place for 1 - 1 1/2 hours
Accountability Phase

When you are actively working with your dog, I want you to do something else after a few reps. You can sit on the
couch or start to make dinner. Doing this is challenging for dogs because they expect us to keep moving around
them, and when we take a break, it strengthens their ability to relax on place while we do things around our
home. Do this a few times and then walk back over to pick up the leash for a few more reps. Did your dog get a bit
whiney? Please refer to our place duration pages to see how we recommend you work through it.

80
 If your dog is a little whiney or trying to pop off the place cot, it's
usually a sign that you're doing what your dog needs most. Be sure
to add the same challenge tomorrow to see how your dog does. You
might be surprised!

Long-Line Place Session

DAY 12 Accountability
One daily 10-minute session followed up
with duration on place for 1 - 1 1/2 hours

Switch out your shorter leash for a long-line leash. I prefer the 15
to 20-foot length. Doing this will help you give your dog a bit more
freedom while still having a leash to pick up if needed. You will be
using your body movement and E Collar more than anything -
getting closer to off-leash freedom!
Try recalling your dog off of place and walking back over to the
place cot to guide them on without any leash guidance. Don't
worry - it's there if you need it.

DAYS 13&14
Place & Recall Without A Leash
Accountability Phase
One daily 10-minute session followed
up with duration - aim for two hours

These sessions will look similar to days 1-3 training

schedule. The only difference is that you will not have
a leash. If having a leash on your dog helps you feel
confident, have them drag it around as you work with
them, and you can pick it up if needed.

81
 Your Place
practice schedule
How long should your dog be on place when first starting with duration? This schedule is
what I would recommend. Aim for the daily amount for your dog's place practice.

1 2 3 4 5
30 30 30 30 - 45 30 - 45

6 7 8 9 10
30 - 45 30 - 45 50 - 1 hour 50 - 1 hour 1 hour to
1/2 hours

11 12 13 14
1 hour to 1 hour to 1 1/2 to 2 Aim for
1/2 hours 1/2 hours hours 2 hours

I hope you've enjoyed our E Collar MASTERING

Starter Guide! Don't forget that you THE ART OF
can watch our videos that take you E COLLAR
through this guide right here. TRAINING
LOVE, WALKING DOG TRAINING

YOUR VIDEO GUIDE

82
 HAS A 9-5 JOB

Wake up and take some time to drink your

6-7:30 coffee, put e collars on and then let the dogs
out of the kennel to go out back for bathroom
breaks and to stretch their legs.

Bring them back inside for some place time

8-9
while you eat breakfast and get ready for
work. You can also put them in their
kennels at this time.
Go ahead and feed them their breakfast in
the kennels.

Since you will be heading out for work, you

can give them some extra time out back or
make the time to walk each before you head
out to work. Whatever feels right for you!

9-12 Kennel time.

Potty break, free time in the backyard and then

12-1
some place time while you eat your lunch or
watch some tv.

Outside time or walks are ALWAYS followed up with

place duration or kennel time. The more consistent
you are with this routine, the easier it will be for
Luna and Boujee to relax inside.

1-5 Kennel time.

Outside time in the backyard

5-6
// maybe some fetch //
(20-30 minutes) followed up by place
time inside.

83
 If you want to incorporate some active training
sessions, here are some ideas:

Recall from the backyard to place on the

porch. This is great for impulse control
and to practice recall. Walking away from
place will be a challenge. Anticipate her
getting off to follow you and be ready to
correct and then put her back on place if
she gets off.

Recall from place to place inside. Put one dog away

and work with the other. Or, have both dogs out and
work on having one of them walk with you slowly
around your home. Have a leash on for extra guidance
if you need it. Slowing down is challenging! Which is
why we want to work on it.

Down stays on the walk. Every now and then, ask

your dog for a down and walk around him or her.
Then go right back into "heel," as you start walking
again.

Place duration is when you are going to see the

biggest changes in both dogs. Maybe try place time
on the back porch one day when the weather is nice.
This will up the challenge a bit with all the
distractions outside.

Let them outside for a potty break/free time

6-8:30
and then back inside for place time.

A walk for each dog followed up with place time

while you make dinner or relax.

Last potty and kennel up for bedtime. It's ok to

9-9:30
put your them to bed even though you are
going to stay up and watch a few more episodes
of your favorite tv show. Enjoy some dog free
time!

84
 WORKS FROM HOME

6 Enjoy your coffee or breakfast FIRST you do not need to let her out
as soon as you wake up
7-8 Let her out to go potty and then back on place
for 10-15 minutes to chill out
this is when I would put her
e collar on.
9-10 A walk and then breakfast in kennel

Place time for one to two hours and you can you could always follow this up
11-12 also incorporate kennel time here (or incorporate it into the place
time) with a "recall from place to
Outside to go potty and and then into
2 place" session or put on her
her kennel for an hour to relax
muzzle and do some nail
desensitization. Touch her paws
3 This could be some free time in the backyard with
the other dogs followed up by place time inside and be clear about expectations
... keeping her head down.
4 Kennel time for an hour
this is also a great time to work
5 Walk and then dinner time in the kennel on recall using tone. Recall her
away from the dogs to place.
Just a couple of times is enough
6 Evening place time 1-2 hours
to include some structure during
her "free time".

Walks: How long should they be?

8-9 Last potty break and then kennel for the night
20 to 30 minutes is ideal

How often should I "train" with her?

Everything is training
Progress Milestones
The walks are also a great time
worked on nail desensitization twice today to work on a down stay or sitting
each time you stop.

incorporated some down stays into our morning walk active sessions: this is like place
to place recall or kennel to place.
did one active session today I would do this at least once a day
for 10 minutes total.

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 DAY OFF FROM WORK

Time Agenda Notes

first potty break and then back kennel time always follows meal time.
am
in kennel for breakfast

7 or 8 take him for a walk or some kind

of exercise (long line work, backyard time, etc.)

place time after the walk and he should

hang out on there for a couple of hours.

let off for some free time for backyard

11ish
time or a walk Ideas: walking around your house
w/ a leash in heel with stops to work
11:30 10-15 minutes of active training on sitting when you stop.
or 12
Down stay work. Put him in a down,
drop the leash and walk away. This
2-3
hours Kennel Time and/or place time is a great exercise to work on his
impulse control.

Potty break/walk and then some free time

3
inside without having to be on place

3:30 Go do something fun!

Place time after an outing.

Calm time after fun time.

potty break/walk then back

5
in kennel for dinner

Kennel Time after he eats dinner

for about an hour

you can also do some place time instead

of the kennel if you prefer

8 or 9 last potty break before bed

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