RE-133 AGAMID LIZARDS CONTENTS]

Agamids in General .................................. 1

Housing .................................................... 9
Nutrition .................................................. 23
Species Accounts ................................... 29
Suggested Reading ................................ 64

© 1996 by T.F.H. Publications, Inc.

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AGAMIDS IN GENERAL
AGAMIDS IN GENERAL
GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY
The family Agamidae inhabits
the Old World exclusively.
Agamids are very similar in
general form and habits to the
iguanids, but agamids and
iguanids are found together only
in the Fiji and Tonga Islands, and
on Madagascar.
Agamids generally are tropical
and subtropical animals, but
there are some exceptions. Most
of the species occur in Australia
and the southern parts of Asia,
but many also occur in Mrica.
The bulk of the species seen in
the hobby seem to come from
Mrica, these being of the genera
Agama and Uromastyx. In total,
there are over 30 genera and over
1
300 species that have been
described, depending on what
source you consult, and there
probably are many species yet to
be described as well. A surprising
number of agamid species occupy
many of the same types of
environmental niches as the New
World iguanids. For those familiar
with iguanids, you know that they
take many different forms and
occupy many different
environments, from desert to
woodland to swamp. The same
goes for the agamids.
The bulk of the agamid species
are fairly unspecialized, having
only minor differences in their
adaptations. Most agamids have
large heads, powerful legs, and
PHOTO BY KEN LUCAS.
2 AGAMIDS IN GENERAL
comparatively long tails. They
possess well-developed claws for
digging or climbing, as well as a
well-formed dentition for eating a
wide range of foods. Many species
possess attractive dorsal crests
and dewlaps. Agamids occur in
many color forms, most being
relatively somberly colored and
patterned. Some have the
capability of color change, this
usually being determined by body
temperature fluctuation. Most rely
on their good eyesight for food
detection. For the most part, the
species of the family Agamidae are
egglayers, the exceptions to this
being species in the genus
Cophotis and some species of
Phrynocephalus.
ACQUIRING SPECIMENS
One thing you'll notice in your
quest for agamids is that you
usually have to look beyond the
average pet shop in order to find
any but the most common
species. Pet shop owners usually
are wary of any animal that may
not sell well or may be unfamiliar
to them. The information
concerning agamids that is
available to both the pet store
owner and the average hobbyist is
sparse at best. Therefore, it is up
to the keeper to learn where to
obtain his or her specimens. Even
if a pet store isn't carrying the
species you're interested in, you
can alw~ys ask them to try
ordering it.
When purchasing a specimen, it
is wise to research the animal
beforehand. Knowledge of one
species of agamid does not apply
equa!ly to all other agamids.
Agamids occur in many parts of
the Old World and in many forms.
Some have vastly different
housing and feeding requirements
than others. Having a familiarity
with the keeping of water dragons
(Physignathus spp.), for instance,
does not automatically mean you
will be able keep spiny-tails
(Uromastyx spp.) as well, at least
not without further research.
The impulse purchase of a
lizard such as an agamid
frequently will lead to an
improperly cared-for pet. Housing
reqUirements can only be met
with some prior preparation on
the part of the potential owner.
Some agamid species are easier to
care for than others, some grow
larger, and some are more
aggreSSive. It is up to you to
research these animals and
determine which one is best for
you.
Once you have an agamid lizard
in your possession, it is up to you
to give it the best care possible.
The first step is to have the
animal checked over by a
veterinarian. While it is true that
a visit to a vet is not cheap, it is
still better than ending up with a
dead lizard that you paid good
money for. Remember, catching a
health problem in a herp is best
done as early as possible.
Many agamid lizards seen for
sale are wild-caught specimens.
This means they may be
harboring some parasites. In
nature, a healthy lizard can deal
with a population of internal
parasites without too much
tr:ouble. Under the stress of
captivity, however, that same
AGAMIDS IN GENERAL 3
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS .

When shopping around for specimens, look

forthosethat are plump (i.e., appear well fed)
and alert. Also watch for signs of parasitic
infestation , cuts, bruises, and burns . This
Inland Bearded Dragon , Pogona vitticeps,
for example , appears to be in good shape.
4 AGAMIDS IN GENERAL
lizard will have a harder time
coping with such a problem due
to the tremendous amount of
stress put on the animal from
initial capture, transport,
placement in holding facilities (in
which animals often are kept in
overpopulated conditions until
they are shipped off to retailers),
display in the pet shop, and
finally the trip home. Under such
circumstances, any animal could
be susceptible to stress-related
maladies.
HEALTH PROBLEMS
Both the novice and the expert
herp keeper should have a basic
knowledge of reptile diseases.
Because of the fact that reptiles
can hide disease until they are too
far gone to treat, it is vital to have
a working understanding of
PHOTO OF AN AGAMA SP. BY W. P. MARA.
spotting, identifYing, and
(possibly) treating such diseases.
Some of the more common
diseases can be effectively treated
in your own home. Others will
require veterinary assistance.
You will find that most agamid
species are very resistant to
disease as long as their basic
needs are faithfully provided.
However, some specimens
invariably will come down with
one ailment or another, and it is
at such a time that a working
knowledge of disease treatment
comes in handy.
Here are the most common
ailments known to strike agamids,
and their treatment.
Parasites: There are two
types-ectoparasites (external)
and endoparasites (internal). The
most common ectoparasites are
AGAMIDS IN GENERAL 5
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS.
mites and ticks (which actually
are just giant mites), and both are
easily treatable.
There are two ways to do this.
With the first, a small piece of
insecticide strip (about one inch
square) is hung near (within a foot
or so) the enclosure containing
the infested lizards and left there
until all the offending parasites
are dead (usually about a week).
Make sure you remove the
animals' waterbowl during this
time because vapors from the
insecticide strip will taint the
water, rendering it toxic. Give the
lizards a drink of water one time
during each day, then remove the
water again. This method is more
effective on mites than ticks; ticks

are best removed with the help of

a dab of alcohol and a pair of
tweezers.
With the second method, which
is considerably milder and usually
works better with mites rather
than ticks, the lizards are soaked
in several inches of warm water,
which will drown many of the
offending parasites. The obviously
problem here is that many agamid
specimens may not want to sit in
a bowl of warm water for hours at
a time. In either case, you should
bypass both methods and consult
a vet if you have a mite or tick
problem that has really gotten out
of hand.
Endoparasites can, given the
right conditions, be more difficult
6 AGAMIDS IN GENERAL

to deal with than ectoparasites.

Common examples include
tapeworms and roundworms.
Accurate identification is
impossible without the assistance
of a veterinarian, but the warning
signs can be obvious-lack of
appetite, sluggishness, sunken
eyes, lack of muscle-tone, and
watery waste matter. Treatment
should be sought by a
professional immediately after a
problem is suspected.
Nutritional Problems: These
shouldn't be a concern for the
keeper who pays close attention to
his or her pets' diets. Improper
nutrition can lead to deficiencies
of various vitamins and minerals.
Vitamin A and vitamin D3
deficiencies are common in
herptiles (symptoms of which
include soft bones, loose teeth,
nasal discharge, pufty eyes,
shedding problems, etc.), and only
a vet should deal with such
problems.
Miscellaneous: Other ailments
suffered by captive agamids
include burns (often from lighting
apparatus or hot rocks), bone
fractures, and skin problems such
as shedding difficulties, at this point because there are a
lacerations, and burns. Shedding large number of different breeding
problems usually are not serious strategies to be found within the
and can be helped along with family Agamidae, and it would be
either a little daily misting in the impossible to accurately describe
terrarium or the provision of a each one here. Some general rules
bathing area (to loosen dried skin can be given, however.
patches). All other problems listed First, a healthy stock of lizards
above can be quite serious and is required if captive-breeding is
should be discussed with a vet. to be hoped for. Individuals
should be young (born and raised
BREEDING AGAMIDS in captivity if possible) and similar
Only a short account on the in size to each other to maximize
breeding of agamids is presented breeding chances and minimize
AGAMIDS IN GENERAL 7
PHOTO OF A GROUND AGAMA, AGAMA ACULEATA, BY K. H. SWITAK.

It is strongly suggested that al/ keepers of

agamid lizards make some attempt to breed
their stock, if only as a conservation effort.
The breeding of most agamids is not that
difficult, but it does require patience and
attention to detail.

fighting. Normally these are very be over-wintered or hibernated in

territortallizards, so a group of order for successful fertilization to
only one male to two, three, or occur. Usually temperatures in
even four females is good for the low to mid 50s are required
breeding purposes. Of course, this for apprOximately six to eight
many animals kept in one weeks. Lighting and feeding must
terrarium will need a lot of space. be lessened at the same time.
Attention must be given to exact Finally, a lizard that has not
temperatures, humidity levels, been well fed cannot be expected
hiding places, and the provision of to give satisfying breeding results.
both egglaying sites and basking Check the section on nutrttion, as
areas suitable for the species. well as the species accounts, to
Second, many of the species determine the best diet possible
from cooler climates will need to for your particular specimen.
8 HOUSING
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS.
sa SSS _la _c

A lizard couldn't get much more gravid than this! If you are lucky
enough to end up with a pregnant agamid, be sure to provide
her with a nesting box with a deep substrate. In this case, the
keeper used a bucket filled with sand.
HOUSING
HOUSING
In this chapter you will become
familiar with the many
environmental niches that the
myriad species of agamids call
home. I'll describe the various
components needed to
successfully set up a terrarium for
agamids. At the end of the
chapter I'll discuss the four main
agamid habitats-desert,
savannah/ grassland, woodland,
and rainforest. These individual
sections will contain information
on setting up an enclosure in both
a basic, "bare bones" style, and a
more naturalistic fashion,
simulating nature as closely as
possible (in the confines of a
small, enclosed area, of course).
9
The bare-bones setup method is a
way of arranging an enclosure to
meet only the most basic
requirements of your agamid. The
naturalistic method, on the other
hand, tries to duplicate the
lizard's natural environment by
replicating all details of the
terrain that occur where the lizard
originates from. There obviously
will be limits to this latter setup
considering the limited amount of
space and materials at one's
disposal.
ENCLOSURES
For most agamid species, use of
the standard all-glass aquarium is
advised; these usually are the
PHOTO BY PAUL FREED.
10
cheapest, easiest to clean, and
safest. They offer viewing from
all sides and allow regulation of
humidity levels. For most
agamid species that grow to
around 15 in/38 cm in length,
the standard 30-gallon
aquarium (36 x 16 x 12 in/91 x
40 x 30 cm) is perfect. Keep in
mind that this size refers to the
keeping of one medium-sized
lizard. More than one
immediately requires you to look
to at least a 40-gallon aquarium
(48 x 16 x 13 in/122 x 40 x 33
cm). Smaller agamids will do fine
in a 20-gallon aquarium (30 x 12
x 12 in/76 x 30 x 30 cm) or
smaller, depending on size and
number of lizards being kept.
Large lizards can be kept singly
in a 40- or 45-gallon aquarium
(48 x 18 x 13 in/122 x 45 x 33
cm) or might need even larger
quarters depending on the
individual being kept.
HOUSING
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS.
SUBSTRATES
Which substrate you choose will
depend upon whether you are
going for a bare-bones setup or a
naturalistic setup.
Artificial Turf: An all-purpose
type of substrate that is also
known as indoor/outdoor
carpeting, it can be used for all
agamids. It couldn't be used in
the naturalistic setup, since you
generally don't see much artificial
turf growing in the wild. It is safe
for virtually all reptiles, can be
cleaned rather easily, and
presents a tidy appearance (as
long as regular cleanings are
maintained). It is favored by many
experienced keepers who have
large stocks of animals.
Paper Towel and Newspaper:
Paper substrates certainly should
be mentioned. For the keeper of
agamids, these materials can be
cleaned up rather quickly. Even
though they do make a cheap and
HOUSING 11
BOTH PHOTOS COURTESY OF FOUR PAWS.
easy-to-clean bottom for a cage,
they are also very light in weight,
which means agamids will simply
tear them to pieces with their
sharp little claws. They also will
not remain in place for very long,
but rather end up as creased and
crumpled wads stuffed into one of
the enclosure's corners.
Pine Bedding: This type of
material in the form of wood
shavings, bark nuggets, bark
mulch, etc., is normally used with
small rodents (such as mice and
hamsters). It makes a fairly
cheap, clean bedding. It is light
and easy to work with, and is an
excellent substrate for the bare-
bones type of setup. A point to
remember-cedar bedding can be
toxic to herps. The oils contained
in it are said to cause, among
other things, respiratory problems
in herptiles.
Gravel: This is the substrate
used by herpers and aquarists
alike. Gravel is colorful, natural-
looking (except for some of those
wacky, commercially produced
colors), relatively easy to work
with, and very cost effective
(because it doesn't have to be
disposed of at every cleaning).
Gravel can be washed, picked
clean, or baked to remove wastes
and impurities. It is of use in both
the natural setup and the bare-
bones approach. Size 3 and 5
(mm) gravel are the easiest to
come by and are the best for a
lizard's health because they lack
sharp edges. Sizes larger than
this tend to trap wastes and
insects. Sizes smaller than this
can be considered sand.
Sand: This substrate can be
12
used for both the natural setup
and the bare-bones setup. In the
former it can be used in both the
desert and the savannah setting.
On the other hand, I think sand
would look out of place in a
woodland or rainforest habitat,
but that is one person's opinion,
and if you like sand with your
philodendrons and bromeliads
then by all means, go for it. Sand
is relatively easy to clean and is
more resistant to odors than
other, more porous materials
such as soil or even gravel.
PHOTO COURTESY OF OCEAN NUTRITION .
HOUSING
Potting Soil/Orchid Bark: This
is a good substrate to use in the
bare-bones setup, though you will
want to change it frequently. Also,
both potting soil and orchid bark
can be purchased cheaply. Be
careful of soil taken from your
own backyard, however-you
never know what might be
crawling around in it.
Potting soil I orchid bark can
support any sort of terrestrial
plant that you would want to add.
It is safe for all agamids just as
long as perlite is not in the mix
because it has been known to
cause intenstinal blockages in
reptiles. Ordinary soil will, if
ingested, pass through an animal
with no damage. It will be up to
you to figure out what plant
species you will want to use. Once
you've figured this out, the correct
type of soil mixture can be
formulated.
CLIMATE CONTROL
Heating: As reptiles, agamid
lizards are at the mercy of their
surrounding environment. This
means YOU are the one who will
has to regulate the amount of
warmth they receive. Fortunately,
there are several ways to do this.
Using heat lamps is one way.
Heat lamps are either of the
ceramic or incandescent type and
are readily available at virtually
any pet shop that stocks
herpetocultural supplies. The
ceramic type emits heat without
producing any light. The
advantage of this is that day I
night cycles are not affected. Such
heaters also are available in
several wattages, allowing you to
HOUSING
Providing your agamid lizard with the correct photoperiod (day/night cycle) is very important.
Photoperiod often affects a herptile's behavior. Bulbs designed specifically for the keeping of
reptiles and amphibians now are available at many pet shops.
provide just the right amount of
heat in your pet's enclosure. The
problem with using a ceramic-
type heat lamp is that you must
then use a ceramic-style socket
because your ordinary house-
lamp socket would quickly melt
from the amount of heat
produced.
The second type of heat lamp is
the incandescent type that simply
can be screwed into an ordinary
household socket. Also on the
market are full-spectrum
incandescent bulbs, which not
only can be used for heating an
enclosure but also replicate the
light of the sun that is essential to
the survival of agamids.
Besides the ceramic and
incandescent heaters, there also
are undertank heaters. These are
very convenient in that they are
placed under the enclosure itself.
They cannot be used with wooden
enclosures because the wood
would absorb most of the heat
(and there always is the chance of
a fire starting). Many models have
thermostatic controls that allow
13
PHOTO COURTESY OF ENERGY SAVERS.
regulation of the enclosure's
temperature. Undertank heaters
will not heat a whole enclosure,
just one spot, giving the animals a
choice of either warm or cool
areas.
There also is the option of
"heated rocks." These are molded,
artificial "rocks" with a heating
coil placed inside. Some now have
thermostats. They are good for
creating basking sites, but they
will not do a good job of raising an
enclosure's overall air
temperature.
Finally there is the option of
heating a whole room. Large
collections of reptiles and
amphibians would require
considerable amounts of heating
equipment in order to acclimate
each enclosure individually. This
would mean many electrical cords
lying about and high electric bills.
Thus, it sometimes is cheaper to
set one small room aside for
heating these animals collectively.
Some of the more advanced
"smart" thermostats allow you to
program them when you want
14
higher or lower temperatures in
the room. For example, you
probably would want higher
readings during the day and lower
temperatures at night to simulate
nature (and in turn increase your
chances of captive breedings).
Lighting: In many ways, thi:;
subject goes hand-in-hand with
heating since one way of heating a
tank is by the use of incandescent
bulbs. Incandescents obviously
also produce light, but if the light
produced is not full-spectrum
(Le., it simply is of the ordinary
household variety), then further
lighting will be needed to allow for
vitamin D3 production.
The other type of lighting that is
available to herp keepers is
fluorescent lighting. This type
usually is a bit more expensive
than incandescent lighting, but
many different types of light are
offered, from "shop" lights to
black lights to full-spectrum
lights. Fluorescent bulbs also
tend to last longer than
incandescents, and although their
initial cost is higher, the final
results will be more satisfying.
If you are short on money and
need to save where you can, then
I would recommend full-spectrum
incandescent lighting. This will
give you both heat and light in the
correct quantities (the bulbs
usually are available in several
sizes).
On the other hand, if money
really isn't an issue, the best
setup you can go with probably is
a combination of fluorescents for
light and either incandescent
bulbs or undertank heating pads
for warmth. Full-spectrum
HOUSING
fluorescent lighting seems to be
more effective than full-spectrum
incandescent; exactly how much
more effective is uncertain. What
is certain is that separate light
and heat sources allow freer
manipulation of both. This means
that if you want a lot of light but
not much heat, you can have it.
Conversely, if you want a lot of
heat but not so much light, you
can have that too.
Such freedoms are important in
herptile husbandry. For instance,
most herps originate from areas
that go through daily changes in
temperature, so you should strive
to duplicate this. Also, daily and
seasonal changes in length of
daylight (called photoperiods) are
natural in a lizard's environment
and thus should occur in captivity
as well.
ENCLOSURE DECOR
There are many different items
that can be incorporated into a
lizard's tank. The reason for
anything going inside the tank
will depend on two things-the
lizard's needs and your own
decorating desires. Obviously the
first thing that needs to be done is
for you to gain information on the
species you have. Once you know
about its natural surroundings,
you'll be ready to duplicate those
surroundings in captivity.
As mentioned earlier, there are
two types of setups that you can
go with-bare-bones and
naturalistic (and of course you
can set up a tank that is a happy
medium between the two). This
means any of the following
components can be used.
It is possible to create a naturalistic
feel in an agamid's enclosure without
going to too much trouble. In this
setup, for example , there is only a
bedding of bark nuggets, a few rocks ,
and a waterbowl , yet the arrangement
is attractive and seems appropriate
forthe Hardun , Laudakia stellio, living
in it. Photo by Isabel~e Francais.
16 HOUSING
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS.
You can use any of the artificial
materials previously mentioned,
but such hideboxes should be
hidden behind rocks or plant
growth in order to retain the
integrity of the terrarium's
naturalistic look.
On the other hand, you can use
actual rocks or plants to build
hiding areas. Be careful with the
former, however, because active
lizards tend to dig at rockwork
and can easily cause a cave to
topple down, sometimes on
themselves. Make sure the
structure is securely constructed.
Silicone glue or cement might
help here. Both are safe with
animals if allowed to air for a day
or more.
Waterbowls and Water Basins:
All agamids need water. Desert
Hideboxes: Hideboxes are a species, such as those in the
necessary component for
terrestrial agamids. They also are
useful for lizards kept in groups
in case fighting starts. Obviously
the size of the hidebox should be
such that room is available for the
animals to enter, turn around,
and exit with ease. In the spartan,
bare-bones setup, the hidebox
can be made from many things-
shoeboxes, sweaterboxes,
discarded frozen food trays, heavy
gauge plumbing pipe, etc. Plastic
items simply can be washed and
reused, whereas cardboard items
need to be thrown away and
replaced. Also, many pet stores
now carry hideboxes of different
shapes and sizes designed
specifically for herptiles.
A hidebox that looks like it
belongs in a naturalistic setting is
a bit more challenging to provide.
HOUSING
Security is of prime importance when keeping any herptiles. Lizards in particular rarely will turn
down an opportunity to slip away , so always make sure the tops of your animals ' enclosures
always are on tight.
genus Uromastyx, rarely drink
from a standing body of water,
but instead get their water from
the vegetation found in their
habitats. In captivity, however,
water should be available to the
animal at all times.
Other species, those that
inhabit "wetter" environs, will
drink on a regular basis, and
some species, such as water
dragons, will even soak in the
water bodies you provide. Water
should be available to all such
species of agamids at all times.
The water-loving species will need
a container of water large enough
to bathe in, whereas other species
will do okay with small plastic or
porcelain bowls. The bare-bones
setup can have a small plastic
17
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS.
bowl, swe aterb ox , or rubber wash
basin, whereas the naturalistic
setup might do better with stone
or porcelain water containers
sunk into the substrate to
simulate a small pool. There can
even be a little waterfall leading
into it.
Driftwood and Branches:
Wood can be used in almost any
setup and will go a long way in
making a terrarium look
appealing and making a nervous
lizard feel more "at home."
Driftwood and branches are sold
in pet stores and come in many
sizes and shapes. You can also
find your own in your backyard or
a nearby wooded area (if allowed).
Just make sure, if collected from
an outdoor area, the wood is
18 HOUSING
PHOTO BY DAVID J. ZOFFER.

devoid of any little crawly critters. and they can add a splash of color
To eliminate existing critters, soak to an otherwise bland
the wood in water for several arrangement. The artificial plants
days, then let it dry for a week or sold in a pet shop and designed
so. specifically for use with animals
Plants: The use of live plants are best. Those sold elsewhere
with agamid lizards is a bit of a usually are intended for decor
risk. Although not all agamids are around one's home and often have
vegetarians, many are and may be weak dyes that will run when
tempted to consume the plants moistened. Such dyes will make
you originally intended for your agamids ill if consumed.
decorative purposes. Also, some
plants are toxic to agamids. TYPES OF CAPTIVE AGAMID
Plants selected for an agamid's HABITATS
terraria should be sturdy, non- Desert: The desert setup
toxic, and able to withstand the probably is the easiest to put
rigors of being jumped on together. A naturalistic approach
constantly. Keep in mind that live can be very appealing to the eye.
plants need watering, fertilizing, As a substrate you will need sand
and correct lighting in order to or fine gravel. Depending on
thrive. whether or not the species
The other alternative is artificial involved is an active burrower,
plants. Even vegetarian species you may need to keep several
usually will not bother with them, inches of substrate. Rocks can be
HOUSING
used to form outcrops in the rear
of the tank or to form territorial
boundaries, or they can be used
sparsely throughout the tank
strictly as decoration. Keep in
mind that sand does not hold
rockwork readily; it easily shifts,
which can mean stacked rocks
will tumble on each other. Be
careful.
Spare pieces of driftwood can
be used. Most plants don't really
seem to "look the part" in a
desert setup, but if you like the
look then go for it (please use
desert-dwelling species only).
Cacti with sharp spines are out
of the question as they can
quickly injure a lizard. The
various types of succulents
probably are your best bet
(although again, vegetarian
lizard species may try to eat
19
them, so be careful). Plastic
plants are an option worth
considering.
Dry, hot conditions must be
provided. These can be achieved
by the use of incandescent or
ceramic heaters. Depending on
the species, temperatures will
need to be kept anywhere from 85
to 105°F /29 to 41 °C. The usual
way of doing this is by setting
up the heater on one side of the
terrarium , so that the specified
temperature is reached on the
one side, while a cooler area is
allowed to exist on tlie other. A
lizard can't regulate its own
body temperature internally and
is at the mercy of the
surrounding environment. A
temperature gradient must be
provided so the lizard can adjust
its own body temperature.
PHOTO BY K. H. SWITAK.
20
The bare-bones setup will still
need the lighting/heating of the
naturalistic method, but sand can
be replaced by paper towels or
turf, and a hidebox should be
provided for each lizard kept in
the terrarium. The lighting can be
placed on a timer and the heating
should be as well. Nighttime in
the desert is commonly quite cool,
so room temperature (70 to 78°F /
21 to 25°C) should be adequate
for most species of desert agamid.
Grassland and Savannah: This
is the area of terrain where
forested areas meet open plains. It
can contain small trees or bushes
but generally is characterized by
the many species of grasses that
grow there. This environment
provides homes to many species
of animals, including agamids.
The home terrarium can be
HOUSING
made to house these grassland
species quite readily. See the
section on woodland setups for
tips on soil, gravel, etc. Actual
grasses mayor may not be used,
similar tall, thin plants can be
substituted in their place, and
plastic plants can be used as well.
Lizards of the grassland areas
tend to be shy, active animals
that need plenty of shelter in
order for them to feel at home.
The plants themselves may be
enough shelter, but you may want
to use some rocks or branches to
add to the tank.
Temperatures in these
grassland/ savannah areas can
vary widely, depending on natural
climate, because this type of
habitat occurs throughout many
areas of the world. Knowledge of
your lizard's origin should be
PHOTO BY K. H. SWITAK.
HOUSING
sought in helping you to figure
out exact temperature and
lighting requirements. As a
general rule of thumb, daytime
temperature should run
approximately 78 to 88°F /25 to
31 QC. Nighttime temperatures can
run at about room temperatures,
70 to 75°F /21 to 24°C.
The bare-bones version should
utilize the same heat and light
conditions. It can be set up
Similarly to the desert bare-bones
terrarium, but with added
shelters and some branches for
climbing.
Woodland: You will be able to
house more species of agamids
this way than any other. Actually,
most species that would be
optimally suited for life in a
grassland, savannah, or rainforest
setup can be safely housed here
with some modifications.
Woodlands contain many different
21
PHOTO BY U. E. FRIESE.
microhabitats, from the leaf litter
on the ground to the many
species of trees and vines that
allow life forms to thrive hundreds
of feet up.
Setting up a naturalistic
terrarium to suit the needs of
agamids in this way is easier than
the rainforest setting but harder
than the grassland setting. You
will need to place a gravel layer
about one inch thick on the
bottom. This will allow drainage of
the soil layer. On top of this a
layer of top soil will need to be
placed. About two to three inches
should do it. You can now add
plants or tree branches, whatever
will be safe and appropriate for
the species you plan to keep and
pleasing to the eye.
Temperatures are in the same
range as grasslands (78 to 88°F /
25 to 31 QC-daytime, 70 to 75°F /
21 to 24°C-nighttime. The plant
22
and animal species that inhabit
these areas are used to more
humidity though. The forests tend
to hold moisture and slow the
winds that decrease this
humidity.
The bare-bones tank should be
very similar to the grassland tank
except for added moisture in the
form of daily misting (lightly) and
added climbing structures.
Rainforest: The Old World
rainforests of Africa and Asia are
home to a bewildering array of
animals, including many
agamids. Some are terrestrial in
habit, but most tend to be fully
arboreal. What this means is .
that along with the high
humidity and warm
temperatures they will need,
ample climbing areas must be
provided for the inhabitants.
A rainforest terrarium can
generally be set up using the
same procedure as the woodland
tank. The changes are as follows:
1) if live plants are used, they
HOUSING
should be able to handle
rainforest conditions; 2) more
humidity should occur in the form
of liberal daily mistings (followed
by ample time for the terrarium to
dry out, eliminating decay and
od or that could build up in a
constantly wet tank); 3) warmer
temperatures (85 to 95°F /29 to
35°C-daytime, 70 to 78°F /21 to
25°C-nighttime); 4) light in the
rainforest is filtered through many
layers of vegetation, so strong
lighting should be avoided.
Keep in mind that many
arboreal agamids are vegetarians,
so plastic plants may be the way
to go in such an instance.
However, if insectivorous lizards
are what will be living here,
sturdy live plants such as ficus,
bromeliads, philodendrons, and
the like can be used. Tree
branches and driftwood can be
used. Rocks and other terrestrial
shelters usually will not be
frequented much by arboreal
species but can be included.
PHOTO BY K. H. SWITAK.
NUTRITION
NUTRITION
Once properly housed, your
agamid lizard is going to have
feeding on its mind. This means
that a well-planned schedule of
supplying both water and food is
required.
This chapter will enlighten you
to the two main types of agamids
in reference to their diets-
herbivorous and carnivorous. The
information given will contain
pertinent material on correct
feeding schedules, food types,
supplements, etc., in correlation
to the type of diet in question.
One important point-whether
or not the agamid you're keeping
is herbivorous or carnivorous, it
will be necessary for you to make
sure the animal has fresh water at
23
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS.
all times. This means its
waterbowl should be changed
daily and thoroughly washed at
least two or three times a week.
HERBIVOROUS DIETS
Herbivorous agamids can be
found in a variety of physical
appearances and natural
habitats. They range anywhere
from the desert -dwelling
Uromastyx species (often referred
to as the spiny-tailed agamids) to
the rainforest water dragons,
Physignathus. Most herbivorous
agamids tend to be large-bodied
and therefore need large daily
amounts of foodstuffs. Desert
herbivores, such as the
Uromastyx species, usually get
24
most of their water from the
plants they consume. (A
waterbowl still is advised for
keeping Uromastyx, however). The
woodland - and rainforest-dwelling
agamid species need a more
sizable water area than a simple,
average-size bowl because they
will not only drink from it, but
bathe in it as well.
You will find that most
herbivorous agamids are willing to
accept a wide variety of plant
matter. This doesn't mean you
should give them anything and
everything, however. For example,
just because your sailfin dragon
will eat iceberg lettuce doesn't
mean it will do well on it. (Iceberg
lettuce, in fact, usually isn't very
good for herptiles.)
Another point to remember
about herbivores is that they
NUTRITION
PHOTO BY W. P. MARA.
sometimes will accept insects or
lean meat in limited quantities,
technically making them
omnivores. A small percentage of
such foodstuffs (around 5 to 10%)
will help round out the herbivore
diet. Foods should include but not
be limited to squash, broccoli,
spinach, bananas, tomato, and
melons. These items should be
cut up into sizes that are easy for
your agamids to consume. All the
foods previously named don't have
to be offered at the same time.
Three or four items per serving
should be more than sufficient,
and the selection can be varied
each time.
A vital point to remember with
herbivorous agamids is that they
need vitamin supplements. I
recommend the use of a
multivitamin formula specially
NUTRITION 25
PHOTO COURTESY OF FLUKER FARMS.
designed for reptiles combined
with a calcium/phosphorus
formula (with a ratio of 1: 1 or
higher on the calcium side). Such
items can be purchased at most
pet stores that stock
herpetocultural goods. They
usually are inexpensive and come
in many forms (powders, pills,
liquids, etc.). Sometimes the
manufacturer's directions tell you
to use the formula(s) daily, but
this usually is too much. Once
every three or four days is
sufficient, except in the case of
pregnant mothers or newborn
specimens. They can be given the
supplements every other day.
Freeze-dried mealworms will be eagerly
PHOTO COURTESY OF FLUKER FARMS. accepted by many carnivorous agamids and
can be purchased at most pet shops that
A lot of agamids eat crickets , and crickets are
carry herpetocultural goods.
made more nutritious when maintained on a
high-calcium diet. This practice is known as
"gut-loading ." Finally, it should be mentioned
here that adequate fUll-spectrum
lighting is necessary in order to
facilitate calcium/vitamin D3
intake and production.

CARNIVOROUS DIETS
This is the dietary category
most agamids fall into. Many of
them can be more specifically
regarded as insectivores in the
strictest sense of the word
(meaning they feed wholly on
insects), but most eat other
"meaty" foods as well-snails,
shrimp, birds, and other lizards.
Carnivorous agamids take a
broad assortment of insect prey,
from tiny ants and spiders (which
actually are arachnids, not
insects) to large locusts and
butterflies. Many individual
specimens will take a variety of
food items, whereas others will
26
limit themselves to only a favored
few.
Animals of the genera Agama
and Draco are good examples of
insectivores. Their diet is made up
almost entirely of what a lot of
people simply refer to as "bugs."
These lizards are small to medium
in size and are active, curious,
and usually very territorial. Due
to their high activity levels, they
need to feed frequently, so during
the daylight hours you usually
will find them scooting around
their enclosures, constantly in
search of prey.
Both adults and juveniles of
carnivorous species need to be fed
daily. Just as with the diets of
herbivores, the menu items
should be rotated or mixed to
allow maximum nutritional gain.
Some of the insects and other
invertebrates that are preyed
upon by agamids in the wild
NUTRmON
include ants, crickets, locusts,
moths, butterflies, snails, shrimp,
katydids, spiders, and worms. In
captivity, these insects can be
substituted by store-bought
crickets, mealworms, waxworms,
and then a few field-caught
insects (as long as they were
caught in areas void of pesticides,
insecticides, etc.). Be aware,
however, that some agamid
species will need a specialized diet
(ants or termites, for example).
Such lizards can be real
headaches to keep and therefore
are not recommended for
beginners.
The main component of the
captive diet of most insectivorous
lizards should be crickets. The
reasoning is that crickets are
about the most readily available
insect to the average keeper, plus
crickets are nutritionally superior
to all other "farm-raised" insects.
PHOTO BY DAVID J . ZOFFER.
 Another nice point about
crickets is that they are easy to
both "gut-load" and "dust."
Looking at the first concept, the
tenn "gut-loading" refers to the
process of sustaining your
crickets on various nutritious
foods before they themselves are
offered as food. The idea is
obvious-pass on the nutrients
from the cricket to the lizard. Gut-
loading (or "nutrient-loading" as
some call it) is an effective way to
give exacting parameters to an
agamid's diet without having to
use lots of different insects. To
gut-load crickets (or any other
insects for that matter) all you
really have to do is make sure
their diet is high in vitamins and
minerals. There are a number of
specially fonnulated cricket foods
on the market (again, available at
many pet shops), and although
such foods might cost you a little
more than oatmeal or bran flakes,
in the end you will have much
healthier pets (and a remarkably
healthy colony of crickets as
well!). As far as what to keep the
crickets in, I find that plastic
food -storage containers or large
plastic shoe- or sweaterboxes with
holes drilled through the lids do
nicely. Cardboard egg crates
provide great hiding areas and
can be cut to size.
The second concept, "dusting,"
is simple enough-you sprinkle
some vitamin/mineral dust on
some crickets before offering them
to your agamid(s). The following
procedure has worked for me-
take a plastic bag (such as a
sandwich bag) and add
approximately a half teaspoon of
vitamin powder plus one-quarter
teaspoon of calcium/phosphorus
powder. Place the crickets in the
bag, close it, then shake it lightly
28
so the powder will coat the
insects. Mter only a few moments
they should be ready to offer to
your agamids. Insects can and
should be continually gut-loaded
for feeding, but dust them only
once every two to three feedings
(more often for juveniles or gravid
females).
Foods for insects maintained in
captivity could include flaked fish
food, cut fruit and vegetables,
oats and corn meal, and crushed
dry dog food. Food should always
be available for the insects, and
you should try to keep the items
fresh. Also, water needs to be
provided for many insect species.
Most keepers like to place a
water-soaked sponge in a small
bowl, wringing it out and
"refilling" it every other day.
You may find that slower-
moving or inactive carnivorous
Crickets are among the most nutritious items you can give to carnivorous agamids . They can be
purchased in quantity at many pet shops and are relatively inexpensive.
NUTRITION
agamids may not be able to track
down and catch all the insects
you offer them. It also is possible
that the food insects will hide and
never even be seen by your pets if
housed in a naturalistic setting.
In such cases you will have to
feed your agamids in a separate
enclosure or place the food items
in a small bowl with high sides
(this works best with insects that
can't crawl out-mealworms,
waxworms, etc.). The bowl can be
sunk in the substrate so it won't
block the available space in the
terrarium, and the agamids won't
have to climb over the bowl's edge
and risk tipping it. For livelier
insect species like crickets and
grasshoppers, you'll have to pinch
their legs (the jumping legs) in
order to keep them in place. It
sounds kind of cruel, but that's
just how it goes.
PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAIS.
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
Because of the many species of
agamids that occur throughout
the Old World, attention to all the
species (or even genera) in this
relatively short work is
impossible, therefore some culling
must be done. The species that
are listed in this section are
species that occur on a regular or
semi-regular basis in the hobby or
are representative of a genus that
deserves attention because of the
possibility that they would make
interesting pets. It is inevitable
that a species or two that you
might have come across in the
hobby is not listed here, but every
attempt has been made to include
all species that are important to
the hobby.
29
PHOTO BY AARON NORMAN .
MOUNTAIN DRAGON
ACANTHOSAURA CRUCIGfRA
Distribution: Southeastern
Asia.
Length: 10 to 14 in
Housing: Rainforest
Related Hobby Species: A.
annata, A. lepidogaster.
At least these species comprise
a genus that is similar in habits
to the jungle varieties of Anolis.
They are small insectivorous
lizards that live in the dense
undergrowth of bushes and vines
in their native jungles. They are
highly active, nervous little
animals that tend to scurry for
cover at the slightest disturbance.
Keep these lizards in a down-
sized version of the sailfin
30
dragon-style setup. In other
words, they need the same
branches, water pools, and cover
that the Sailfin Dragon requires,
only smaller. You can
comfortably house a trio in a 55-
to 70-gallon aquarium, provided
there is suitable cover and no
more than one male. They need
a temperature range from 78 to
84°F /25 to 29°C during daytime,
70 to 74°F/21 to 23°C for
nighttime. Lighting should be of
the full-spectrum sort, and one
or more basking spots should be
provided, depending on the
number of animals kept. In
nature these lizards take
earthworms, grubs, and
assorted small insects. In
captivity they can be easily
switched over to an insects-only
diet with no problems. Regular
dusting of the crickets,
mealworms, spiders, etc., should
be performed. A relatively large
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETI.
water dish should be provided ,
as these species will bathe and
drink frequently. Breeding
information on these species is
spotty. They are egglayers that
prefer a moist substrate such as
peat moss or vermiculite for
laying. Young are 2 to 3 inches
long at hatching.
BLUE-THROATED AGAMA
AGAMA ATRICOLLIS
Distribution: Southern and
eastern Africa
Length: 10 to 12 in
Housing: Woodland/Savannah
Related Hobby Species: A.
agama, A. planiceps, A. nupta, A.
siniata
It should be noted first off that
the many species of agamas have
recently been split into several
genera by some scientists. This
new system is not accepted by all
at this writing, so we will refer to
them just as Agama.
'033l:1::llnV'd ( ~Oil08 ) ONV' )lV'lIMS 'H ')I (dOL) A8 SOlOHd
S~Nnooov S3103dS
SPECIES ACCOUNTS 33
BOTH PHOTOS BY R. D. BARTLETT.
34
The Blue-throated is of the few
semi -arboreal species of Agama.
In their native haunts of Mrica
they tend to spend most of their
time in the shrubs, bushes, and
Iow-lying trees that are widely
scattered over much of this
savannah area. They are very
territorial, and males will stake
out and defend a specific patch of
bushes or perhaps a small tree.
Females tend to be able to move
in between male territories quite
easily. If A. atncollis is not
involved in territorial disputes, it
invariably will be involved with
the capture of food. They are
constantly chasing the various
medium- to large-sized insects
that abound in these hot, dry
conditions.
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY PAUL FREED.
In captivity, A. atncollis adapts
to either a naturalistic or a bare-
bones setup quite readily. Give
them some tree limbs or other
structures for climbing, along
with the standard water dish,
heat pads, rocks, etc. Lighting is
extremely important and should
take the form of full-spectrum
bulbs with an incandescent spot
light for basking. Vitamin and
calcium dusting are very
important in the diets of these
animals and should be given on a
regular basis. Foods in captivity
can include crickets, king
mealworms , any field-caught
insects that you might capture,
and pinkies. Breeding can occur
in large enclosures, and this
species should be given a
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
spacious environment. Males will
head bob, raise the tail, and
encircle the female in a courtship
ritual. Several weeks after mating,
the female will lay between eight
and 15 eggs in a pit. Incubation
will take about 75 days at 82 to
85°F.
BLOODSUCKER, VARIED LIZARD
CALOTES CALOTES
Distribution: Southern Asia
Length: 20 to 24 in
Housing: Woodland, rainforest
Related Hobby Species: C.
cristatellus, C. mystaceus
The various species of Calates
(about 30 species) represent a
group of medium-sized,
opportunistic lizards that feed on
many sorts of insects, arthropods,
and other lizards. Certain species
are specialized feeders, such as C.
versicalar, which feeds mainly on
ants. Calates are reminiscent of
35
the Cuban Knight Anole (Analis
equestris), with similar feeding
and habitat requirements and the
ability to change color. In fact, the
species of Calates have a strongly
developed ability to do this, falling
short of only the chameleons in
this respect. The color changing is
based on excitement levels and
not strictly camouflage, with reds,
blues, greens, oranges, and
blacks all making their way into
the color schemes of the various
species.
The arboreal nature and high
humidity requirements of these
species would indicate a
rainforest or woodland type of
captive setup. Temperatures need
to be in the middle to high 80s F,
with only slight drops in this
range for nighttime. A basking
area of about 95°F should be
maintained, and full-spectrum
lighting should be employed. Diet
PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETT.
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
can include crickets, king
mealworms, pinkies, and small
lizards. Vitamin and calcium
supplements should be provided.
A large terrarium should be
provided for this lizard. If more
than one if kept, accommodations
will need to be accordingly more
spacious. Keep only one male per
enclosure. Strong branches and
hiding spots (in the form of plants
or hideboxes) should be provided.
This species has been bred in
captivity, with relatively large egg
clutches (14 to 20 eggs) being
laid. Approximately 60 days
incubation time seems average.
FRlllED DRAGON
CHLAMYDOSAURUS KINGI
Distribution: Northern coastal
Australia, southern coastal New
Guinea
Length: 24 to 36 in
Housing: Woodland
37
One of the most bizarre of all
lizards, the Frilled Dragon
possesses a fold of skin that
encircles the neck. When in a
defensive or territorial mood, it is
capable of extending this fold
(which can exceed 12 inches in
diameter) by use of well-developed
hyoid bones. Although most
photographs depict this species
on the ground, it actually is
mostly arboreal. It inhabits
medium and large trees in open
woodlands of tropical Australia
and southern New Guinea. Its
natural prey includes smaller
lizards along with many terrestrial
invertebrates such as spiders,
large insects, and the like.
You will notice one thing about
this species in captivity: there
aren't many. Actually they are
imported infrequently at best from
western New Guinea as they are
protected in their native Australia.
PHOTO BY K. H. SWITAK.
38
When imported they demand a
high price tag-one that most
hobbyists can't afford. In captivity
this species will do well in a
spacious terrarium or cage,
decorated with a few well-
supported branches. Daytime
temperatures should be in the 85
to 90°F range, with a hot spot of
about 100° F. At night the
temperature can safely drop to 70
to 75°F.
The diet should include large
insects and pinkies, and some
fruits will be taken. Foods should
be nutrient loaded and dusted as
explained in the nutrition chapter.
FLYING DRAGON
DRACO MACULATUS
Distribution: India to
southeastern Asia
Length: 7 to 14 in
Housing: Rainforest
Related Hobby Species: D.
fimb natus , D. lineatus
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY K. H. SW IT AK.
These fascinating lizards are
what Linnaeus thought to be the
babies of the mythological
Oriental dragons. Obviously just a
bit off base, these lizards are now
known to grow to no more than a
foot or so long. Even though they
don't actually make it to "giant" in
size, they do possess a unique gift
shared only with the flying geckos
among lizards-the gift of gliding
(not actually active flight). The
Flying Dragon possesses a fold of
skin on the side that covers
several of the ribs, allowing the
lizard to extend its "wings." It
normally will keep the wings
folded against the body except for
soaring and territorial displays. It
also possesses three dewlaps, one
on either side of the chin and one
on the midline of the throat. The
central dewlap often is seen being
extended for territorial displays,
along with the wings and use of
head bobbing. They are brown to
SPECIES ACCOUNTS 39
BOTH PHOTOS BY R. D. BARTLETT.
 40
gray in body coloring, with the
wings containing spots and
streaks of anyone of several
colors, from red to yellow to blue.
These species are found in the
foliage of tall trees of the Asian
rainforests, where they hunt
mainly for ants, plus smaller
spiders and insects.
These lizards are rather delicate
in captivity. Terraria for these
species should provide ample
branches and hiding spots. They
need exacting temperature and
diet regimens in order to survive.
They need temperatures of 84 to
88°F during the daytime and 72
to 76°F for nighttime. Diet should
consist of small crickets, white
(freshly shed) mealworms,
fruitflies, and any small field-
caught insects that you might
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETT.
cl . . 5 .._ •
come across. These should be
vitamin/ calcium dusted regularly.
Ants are impractical to use, and
therein might lie the problem in
keeping these animals for the
long-term. A small dish of water
should be provided, along with
daily mistings.
TREE DRAGON
GONOCfPHALUS GRANDIS
Distribution: Southwestern Asia
through Indonesia to and
Australia
Length: 12 to 25 in
Housing: Rainforest
Related Hobby Species: G.
abbotti
The approximately 15 species of
the genus Gonocephalus resemble
several of the New World iguanids
in both habits and physical
SPECIES ACCOUNTS 41
BOTH PHOTOS BY R. D. BARTLETI.
°11311l:11;18 °0 0l:l A8 S010Hd H108
S~Nnooov S3103dS
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
appearance. For example, G.
grandis bears a striking similarity
to the basilisks (Basiliscus). Most
species of tree dragon tend to
inhabit the higher elevations of
trees in dense forests. Some
occasionall-y--CaIl--b-eSpotted at
lower elevations but not normally.
Depending on the species and size
of the individual lizard these
animals feed on insects, spiders,
and any other invertebrates that
inhabit the rainforests. Most are
relatively slow-moving lizards that
tend to stalk, rather than pounce
on, their prey. Only when eluding
predators do they show any signs
of speed.
SAILFIN DRAGON
HYDROSAURUS AMBOINENSIS
Distribution: Indonesia, New
Guinea
43
Length: 36 to 48 in
Housing: Rainforest
Related Hobby Species: H.
pustulosus
The first thing you will notice
about an adult Sailfin Dragon is
the size. Males can reach 4 feet in
length, females about 3 feet. The
next thing you are probably quick
to notice is its resemblance to the
New World basilisks. They both
share very similar niches-similar
diets, habitats, and behavior. The
Sailfin Dragon is the largest of the
agamid lizards. It is believed that
the elaborate frills and crests that
run along its dorsal ridge are for
both territorial displays and for
swimming (the crests supposedly
act like rudders in the swiftly
flowing waters that it frequents).
In captivity, very spacious
housing is required, either in the
PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETI.
'il3l11:l\f8 'a '1:1 A8 SnS07nlSnd SmmVSOI:JOJ.H :l0 SOlOHd HI08
SJ.Nnoooy S3103dS
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
form of an extremely large
aquarium (100 gallons or more) or
a home-built cage at least 6 feet
long by 3 feet high and wide. They
are very active lizards and will
need both a large pool to bathe in
and several sturdy branches to
bask upon. They will need
basking areas of 90 to 95°F, with
the rest of the cage about 80 to
85°F during daytime. Nighttime
temperatures should run about
70 to 75°F.
They are truly omnivorous in
their diet. In nature, they take
fish, crabs, mollusks, insects,
leaves, flowers, and fruits. In
captivity, they will take a diet of
romaine lettuce, spinach, melons,
bananas, squash, etc., along with
crickets, me alworms, and/or
pieces of cut fish or chicken.
Supplementation with vitamins
and calcium is mandatory. The
Sailfin Dragon's breeding history
45
PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETT.
in captivity is poor at best, but it
is possible to breed them using
large enclosures and proper diets.
BUlTERFLY ACAMID
LEIOLEPIS BELLIANA
Distribution: southern China to
Sumatra
Length: 18 to 20 in
Housing: Savannah/woodland
This is a genus of agamids with
about five species spread out over
much of southern Asia. There
they inhabit the dry scrublands or
open forests that are scattered
over the region. Leiolepis are
ground -dwellers that tend to dig
deep, elaborate burrows. They are
active hunters and take all kinds
of arthropods, small lizards, and
the like.
In captivity, they can be given a
savannah or woodland
environment. Use of the
naturalistic methods of
For the most part, Butterfly Agamids are carnivores,
taking everything from mealworms and crickets to baby
mice, but they also are slightly herbivorous as well.
Because of this, a keeper should offer them as many
different items as possible. A varied diet, after all , is one
key to good herptile husbandry. Photo by Paul Freed.
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
landscaping the living space is
most suitable. A deep substrate of
sand or fine gravel should be used
to satisfy this lizard's need for
digging. Daytime temperatures of
88 to 95°F are suggested,
dropping at n.i ght to about 78°F.
Crickets, pinkies, king
mealworms, and any field-caught
insects are fine. They will take
some plant matter as well. Include
a large drinking bowl for these
lizards.
LYRE-HEADED AGAMID
LYRIOCEPHALUS SCUTATUS
Distribution: Sri Lanka
Length: 12 to 16 in
Housing: Woodland
Yet another "oddball" among
the agamids, L. scutatus is an
ornately decorated, slow-moving
47
predator of cool rainforests. The
Lyre-headed Agamid has a
laterally compressed body with
many keeled scales running
along the dorsal ridge as well as
the ventral ridge of the tail.
Crests are present in both sexes
but are especially high in
males. This species possesses a
strong color-changing ability. It
comes from the cooler
mountains of Sri Lanka, where
it inhabits the ground, tree
trunks, and lower branches of
the dense undergrowth.
Normally slow movers, they rely
more on camouflage than speed
to deter predators. They eat
mainly arthropods, have a
fondness for earthworms, and
usually will take some plant
matter as well.
PHOTO BY w. WUSTER .
48 SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY PAUL FREED.

One of the stranger-looking agamids, the Lyre-

headed Agamid , Lyriocepha/us scutatus, is
found only in the mountains of Sri Lanka. It has
something of a cult following in the
herpetocultural hobby and probably would be
more popular if it was available more often.
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
Keep this species one per cage
unless the cage is very roomy.
Like chameleons, this species
doesn't move fast, but it seems to
be very territorial. Room
temperature (75 to 78°F) is
adequate, with a basking light
and a high humidity. A water dish
should be provided. Foods can
include crickets, me alworms,
earthworms, and possibly some
chopped, fresh fruit. Use vitamin
and calcium supplements for this
species regularly.
MOlOCH, THORNY DEVil
MOLOCH HORRIDUS
Distribution: Australia
Length: 8 to 9 in
Housing: Desert
An unbelievable lizard, the
Moloch looks like a piece of bark
from a thorn tree until you see it
move! The many spiny projections
49
PHOTO BY SUZANNE AND JOSEPH T. COLLlNS.
that adorn the head, back, tail,
and legs of this creature make it a
tough meal for any predator. If
you are familiar with the horned
lizards (Phrynosoma) of North
America, the Moloch is very
similar in terms of diet, habitat,
and appearance except for the
fact that the Moloch possesses
an even more expansive arsenal
of defensive weapons (spines).
The Moloch is native to the
savannahs and deserts of
southern, western, and central
Australia. It is specialized to
feed on ants and termites,
though it does take a small
percentage of other insects and
invertebrates.
This species rarely is found in
captivity and cannot be exported
from Australia. It needs a
standard desert setup, with a
fairly deep substrate (4 to 6
50 SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY KEN LUCAS .

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Undoubtedly one of the most bizarre-looking creatures in the world , the Moloch (or Thorny Devil) ,
Moloch horridus, is almost never seen in captivity (mainly due to the fact that it occurs only in
Australia, where exportat.ion of native herptiles is strictly forbidden) . Perhaps this is all to the
better since Molochs feed almost exclusively on ants and termites.

inches). It should be given full- Housing: Desert/savannah

spectrum lighting and a hot spot Related Hobby Species: P.
that is about 95°F. Other areas of mystaceus
the terrarium should be 85 to The approximately 40 or so
90°F. Night temperatures should species of toad -headed agamids
drop to 70 to 75°F. Pinhead occur throughout the continent of
crickets, newly molted Asia, inhabiting mainly dry,
mealworms, and fruitflies can be desolate regions of open
used as a diet, but it seems this savannahs, deserts, or
species does not thrive without mountains. In fact, one species, P.
the ants and termites found in its theobaldi, occurs above 5,000
native haunts. A small water bowl meters, the highest recorded
should be provided though it elevation for any reptile. This
probably will not be used. group excels at living in what
would be called "wastelands" by
TOAD-HEADED AGAMID some due to the constant
PHRYNOCfPHALUS MACULATUS extremes in temperature,
Distribution: Asia from China to available habitat, etc., of the
Arabia areas. They are dorso-ventrally
Length: 5 to 12 in flattened, looking like horned
SPECIES ACCOUNTS 51
PHOTO OF (TOP) P. MACULATUS, BY R. D. BARTLETT, AND (BOTTOM) P. MYSTACEUS BY PAUL FREED.
52
lizards (Phrynosoma) without all of
the horns and with a relatively
long tail. They possess nostrils
and eyelids designed for the wind-
swept desert climates. In fact,
many of the toad-headed agamids
are very similar to the horned
lizards in many aspects from
habitat to diet. Phrynocephalus
species are predators on ants
and other small arthropods.
They are ground -dwelling,
diurnal lizards that inhabit both
sandy and rocky environments
(depending on species). They are
very territorial, and males guard
their patch of rocks or sand
fiercely, especially during the
breeding season. Most of the
species are egglayers, although
some-especially mountain
species-do give live birth
(ovoviviparous).
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETT.
Your standard desert-type
terrarium can be used
successfully with all but the
mountain species of
Phrynocephalus. Bare-bones or
naturalistic setups can be used.
Daytime temperatures of 90 to
95°F, with nighttime temperatures
about 70°F, should be fine.
Mountain species should be
hibernated for six to eight weeks
during winter at 50°F. These
species can be fed small crickets,
mealworms, and the like. Vitamin
and calcium dusting is necessary
for long-term success. Water
dishes are unnecessary, as the
lizards usually will not drink from
these. Instead spray the interior of
the cage once every day or two.
Make sure to allow time for all
water to evaporate (hint-spray in
the morning and allow the heat
SPECIES ACCOUNTS 53
PHOTO BY MICHAEL GILROY.

One of the most popular lizard pets in the

world, the Green Water Dragon, Physign-
athus cocincinus, does fairly well in captivity
although large specimens need a lot of living
space. The specimen shown here is only a
month old, which is an ideal age at which to
obtain them.
54
from the lighting to dry out the
terrarium). Full-spectrum
lighting, along with a basking
light, should be provided. These
species should be kept by
advanced hobbyists only, as they
don't settle down to captive
conditions well unless exacting
parameters are met.
GREEN WATER DRAGON
PHYSIGNATHUS COCINCINUS
Distribution: Southeastern
Asian mainland and Indo-
Australian archipelago
Length: 36 to 40 in
Housing: Rainforest
Related Hobby Species: P.
lesueuri
An amazing example of
convergent evolution, this species
shows a remarkable similarity to
its very distantly related cousin,
the Green Iguana. From its
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETI.
habitat and its diet to its physical
appearance, the species would
appear to be very closely related
indeed, but the similarity is due to
the lizards occupying similar
niches available in different
geographic areas of the world.
This agamid frequents trees and
vines that grow close to water. It
is a good swimmer and often will
jump into the water to evade
predators. It feeds on many types
of plant and animal matter. Frogs,
arthropods, birds, and lizards,
along with some fruits and leafy
vegetation, round out its diet.
Water dragons can be kept
similarly to Green Iguanas. They
need spacious accommodations
with a large water basin for
drinking and soaking and several
sturdy branches for basking. Air
temperatures should range from
78 to 84°F, with a hot spot about
SPECIES ACCOUNTS 55
PHOTOS BY (TOP ) K. H. SWITAK, AND (BOTIOM) R. D. BARTLETI.
56
90°F. Night temperatures can be
safely dropped to 70°F. The diet
should consist of crickets, king
mealworms, pinkies, various
fruits (SUCD. as melons, tomatoes,
and bananas), and spinach or
romaine lettuce. These items can
be rotated and substituted
regularly. Vitamin and calcium
dusting is mandatory, along with
full-spectrum lighting. This
species, if bought when young
(wild-caught adults tend to tame
poorly), can be tamed just like an
iguana and, although not
affectionate, can make an
excellent pet.
INLAND BEARDED DRAGON
POGONA VITTICEPS
Distribution: Australia
Length: 8-24 in
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
__!I!.!IM
I----...
PHOTO BY W. WUSTER.
Housing: Woodland/savannah
Related Hobby Species: P.
barbatus, P. minimus.
The genus Pogona (previously
part of Amphibolurus) is made up
of about seven species. They are a
popular and entertaining group,
because of both their "cute"
appearance and their animated
behavior. As its name says, this
species is a native of the inland
portions of eastern Australia. It
inhabits mainly open woodlands
along with the arid, grassy areas
of central Australia.
These lizards are true
omnivores in that they will take
leaves, fruits, and flowers just as
readily as insects, spiders, and
pinkies. Feed young bearded
dragons four or five times per
week, adults two to three times.
Bearded dragons make wonderful pets ,
especially when obtained at a young age. Most
Pogona species are relatively small (somewhere
in the neighborhood of around 20 in/50 cm,
which means their housing will be inexpensive)
and eat a variety of both plant and animal matter.
Photo by Isabelle Francais.
·Sllf8Nlftl::l 3ll38lfSI (VIlOil08 ) ONIf '3S31t1::1 ·3 ·n (do.il A8 SOlOHd
S~Nno:>ov S3103dS ss
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
Mix the given choices regularly,
and be sure to use a vitamin/
calcium dusting. In captivity they
will thrive in a spacious terrarium
with one male to one or more
females. They can be very
territorial, so make sure that your
terrarium can accommodate
easily the number of animals that
you have. Temperatures should
be 78 to 84°F during the day; at
night 75°F is fine. A basking site
or two (depending on the number
of animals kept per enclosure)
should be at about 100°F. Full
spectrum lighting should be
provided as well. These lizards
adjust very well to captive life if
provided with the basics and are
becoming very popular to herp
keepers.
59
EGYPTIAN MASTIGURE OR SPINY-
TAILED AGAMA
UROMASTYX AEGYPTIUS
Distribution: Northeastern
Mrica; Egypt
Length: up to 18 in
Housing: Desert
Related Hobby Species: U.
acanthinurus, ocellatus U. omatus
The agamids of the genus
Uromastyx have received
considerable attention over the
years due to their odd appearance
and behavior. They are quite
similar the American Chuckwalla
in that they are dorso-ventrally
flattened, inhabit rocky desert
areas, eat similar diets, and are
quite fond of digging. These
diurnal species are specialized for
desert living. They rarely need to
PHOTO OF UROMASTYX AEGYPT/CUS BY DAVID J . ZOFFER.
Lizards of the genus Uromastyx (often referred to as the
spiny-tailed agamids) suddenly have become very
popular with hobbyists. Judging by the beautiful
specimen shown here, a Uromastyx acanthinurus, it's
not hard to figure out why. Aside from being visually
appealing , most specimens also have mild tempers and
healthy appetites. Photo by Aaron Norman.
62
drink water, getting most of their
water from the vegetation that
they eat. They also have an
unusual system of water
reabsorption that allows them to
absorb excess water from their
excrement and urine, along with
using the water produced through
oxidation of fat stored in the tail,
to produce a superior way of
surviving the often severe desert
conditions that exist where this
animal lives.
U. aegyptius is an excellent
digger and will construct tunnels
several feet long. They use these
tunnels as permanent dwellings
except during the brief mating
season, when the male and female
will share the same burrow. They
do their basking and foraging in
the immediate vicinity of the
burrow opening and become
extremely skittish when any
distance from the burrow.
SPECIES ACCOUNTS
To keep these lizards in
captivity you will need a large
enclosure with a deep substrate.
One animal will need a 70- to 90-
gallon aquarium (48 to 72 inches
long x 18 to 24 inches deep x 24
inches high) or a cage with similar
dimensions. A deep substrate in
the form of 6 to 9 inches of sand
will be needed to satisfy this
lizard's need to dig. Desert
conditions should prevail, with
NO humidity allowed to settle in
the cage. Full-spectrum lighting
and incandescent spot lights
should keep the daytime
temperatures at 90 to 95°F, while
nighttime temperatures can be
safely dropped to 70 to 75°F.
Foods should include leafy plants
(romaine and spinach), along with
fruits and even some flowers.
Vitamins and calcium should be
used regularly. Juveniles will take
crickets and mealworms (use
PHOTO OF U. OCELLA TUS BY R. D. BARTLETI.
SPECIES ACCOUNTS 63
PHOTO OF AN ORNATE SPINY-TAILED AGAMID , UROMASTYX ORNATA, BY PAUL FREED.

infrequently), along with the place in March to April, with egg-

usual vegetation. This species has laying taking place from April to
only recently been bred in May. Incubation takes anywhere
captivity. Breeding normally takes from 80 to 100 days.

ABOUT THE
AUTHOR-

Dave Zoffer's interest in herptiles

began at the age of 12 when he obtained
a pair of Green Anoles, Analis
caralinensis. Since then, he has
expanded into snakes, turtles, frogs and
toads, salamanders, and fishes. He
currently is writing another agamid book
forTFH, this one specifically on bearded
dragons, and also is the Editor-in-Chief
of TFH's Reptile Habbyist magazine.
PHOTO BY W. P. MARA.
64 SPECIES ACCOUNTS

SUGGESTED READING

RE-137 RE-140 RE-142 RE-116

/INDEX RE-133 AGAMID LIZARDS
Page numbers in boldface refer to illustrations.

Abbott's Forest Dragon, 42 Hydrosaurus pustu/osus, 44

Acanthosaura armata, 30 Inland Bearded Dragon, 3, 56-59, 57, 58
Acanthosaura crucigera, 29-30, 29, 31 "King" mealworms, 26
Acquiring specimens, 2-4 Laudakia stellio, 15
Agama acu/eata, 6-7 Leio/epis belliana, 45-47,45,46,47
Agama agama, 32 Lighting, 14
Agama atricollis, 30-35, 32 Lyre-headed Agamid, 47-49, 48, 49
Agama nupta fusca, 33 Lyriocepha/us scutatus, 47-49, 48, 49
Agama p/aniceps, 34 Moloch, 49-50,50
Agama sp., 4 M%ch horridus, 49-50,50
Armored Pricklenape, 30 Mountain Dragon, 29-30, 29, 31
Artificial turf, 10 Mountain savannah habitat, 20
Backdrop, 18 Namib Rock Agama, 34
Bloodsucker, 35-37, 36 Natural history, general information, 1-2
Blue-throated Agama, 30-35, 32 Newspaper, 10-11
Branches, for climbing, 16, 17-18 Nutritional problems,S
Breeding, 6-7 Orchid bark, 12
Butterfly Agamid, 45-47,45,46,47 Ornate Spiny-tailed Agama, 24
Ca/otes ca/otes, 35-37, 36 Ornate Spiny-tailed Agamid, 63
Ca/otes versic%r, 35 Paper towels, 10-11
Ch/amydosaurus kingi, 9, 37-38,37,38 Parasites, 4-6
Climate control, 12-14 Philippine Sailfin Dragon, 44
Common Agama, 32 Phrynocepha/us macu/atus, 50-54, 51,
Crickets, 27, 28 52
Decor, for enclosure, 14-18 Phrynocepha/us mystaceus, 51
Desert habitat, 18-20 Physignathus cocincinus, 53, 54-56, 54,
Diet, of carnivores, 25-28 56
Diet, of herbivores, 23-25 Physignathus /esueuri, 55
Draco macu/atus, 38-40,39,40 Pine bedding, 11
Driftwood,17-18 Plants, 18
Dysecdysis, 5 Pogona vitticeps, 3, 56-59, 57,58
Eastern Water Dragon, 55 Potting soil, 12
Egglaying, 6-7, 8 Rainforest, 22
Egyptian Mastigure, 59-63, 59 Riverine habitat, 22
Egyptian Spiny-tailed Agama, 59-63, 59 Robinson's Forest Dragon, 41
Enclosures, 9-10 Rocky scrubland habitat, 19
Feeding, 23, 28 Sailfin Dragon, 43-45
Flying Dragon, 38-40, 39,40 Sand,11-12
Frilled Dragon, 9, 37-38, 37, 38 Savannah habitat, 20-21
Gonocepha/us abbotti, 42 Skull, of agamid lizard, 1
Gonocepha/us grandis, 40-43,41 Substrates, 10-12
Gonocepha/us robinsoni, 41 Tapeworm, developing, 5
Grassland habitat, 20-21 Thorny Devil, 49-50,50
Gravel, 11 Toad-headed Agamid, 50-54, 51, 52
Green Water Dragon, 53, 54-56, 54, 56 Tree Dragon, 40-43, 41
Ground Agama, 6-7 Uromastyx acanthinurus, 60-61
Habitats, different types for agamids, 18- Uromastyx aegypticus, 59-63,59
22 Uromastyx ocellatus, 62
Hardun,15 Uromastyx ornata, 24, 63
Health problems, 4-6 Variable Agama, 35
Heating, 12-14 Waterbowl, 16-17, 16
Hideboxes, 16 Woodland habitat, 21-22
Housing, temporary, 17 Zoffer, David J. (author), 63, 63
Hydrosaurus amboinensis, 43-45 Zophobas atratus, 26
 Everything an agamid-lizard enthusiast
CARE & would ever need to know can be found
HANDLING within the pages of this colorful book.
There are sections on feeding, breeding,
housing, plus plenty of species accounts
covering some of the most popular
PHOTOS IN THIS BOOK COATED agamids in the world. This is one book no

I
WITH FOTO·GLAZETM, U.S. PATENT lizard-lover can do without.
NO. 5,249,828.

ISBN 0-7938-0283-0
Cf~~ 90000
Completely
manufactured by
T.F.H. Publications, Inc.
1 TFH Plaza
Neptune, NJ 07753 9 780793 802838 o 18214 10283 0