instructables

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM

by Open Green Energy

Day by day the price of the solar panel falls gradually. 1. Solar Panel (PV Panel)
But still, installation of a complete off-grid solar
system is costly. So I write this instructable to get all 2.Charge Controller
the components of your solar system separately and
assemble it all by yourself. 3. Inverter

You can find all of my projects on 4.Battery

https://www.opengreenenergy.com/
Besides the above components you need a few more
If you are decided to install a solar panel system to things like Copper Wire, MC4 Connector, breaker,
cover your home power needs. This tutorial is for you. meter, and fuses, etc.

I have tried my best to guide you step by step from In the next few steps, I will explain in details how you
buying different components to wiring everything by can choose the above components according to your
yourself. requirement.

Only you have to know some basic electrical and
math for designing the entire system. Instead of this, I
have attached links of my other Instructables to make
the charge controller and energy meter.
For an off-grid solar system, you need four basic
components
Note: In the picture I have shown a big solar panel of
255W @ 24V, two batteries of 12V @ 100Ah each,
30A @ 12/24V PWM solar charge controller and a
1600 VA pure sine wave inverter. But during the
calculation, I have taken a smaller solar system
example for better understanding.

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 1

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 2
Step 1: CALCULATE YOUR LOAD

Before choosing the components you have to Lets you want to run an 11W CFL for 5hour from the
calculate what is your load, how much time it will run solar panel, then the watt-hour is equal to
etc. If anyone knows basic maths then It is very
simple to calculate. Watt Hour = 11W x 5 hr = 55

1. Decide what appliances (light, fan, tv, etc ) you 4. Calculate the total Watt Hour: Just like a CFL
want to run and how much time (hour). calculate the watt-hour for all the appliances and add
them together.
2. See the specification chart in your appliances for
power rating. Example :

3. Calculate the Watt Hour which is equal to the CFL =11W x 5 hr = 55

product of power rating of your appliances and time (
hr) of the run. Fan = 50 W x 3hr = 150

Example : TV = 80W x 2hr = 160

------------------------------------------------ choose the right components to match your load

requirement.
Total Watt Hour = 55+150+160 = 365
If you are not interested to do the above maths then
Considering 30% energy lost in the system. use a load calculator for this calculation. You can use
this nice Load Calculator.
So total Watt Hour per day = 365 x 1.3 = 474.5 Wh
which can be round off to 475 Wh

Now the load calculation is over. The next thing is to

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 3

Step 2: SOLAR PANEL SELECTION
The Solar Panel converts the sunlight into electricity
as direct current (DC). These are typically
categorized as
monocrystalline or polycrystalline. Monocrystalline
is costlier and efficient than the polycrystalline panel.
Solar panels are generally rated under standard test
conditions (STC): irradiance of 1,000 W/m², the solar
spectrum of AM 1.5 and module temperature at
25°C.
RATING OF SOLAR PANEL :
The solar panel size should be selected in such a
way that it will charge the battery fully during the one
day time.
https://youtu.be/sZx6qDj2EOo
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 4
During the 12hr day time, the sunlight is not uniform it
also differs according to your location around the
globe. So we can assume 4 hours of effective
sunlight which will generate the rated power.
Total Wp of PV panel capacity needed = 475Wh /4 =
118.75 W
By taking some margin you can choose a 120 Watt,
12v solar panel.
Here you should not confuse with the 12V. I wrote
12V as it is suitable for charging the 12V battery. But
actually the Solar panel voltage is around 17V or
more.
Step 3: BATTERY SELECTION
The output from the solar panel is dc power. This
power is generated during day time only. So if you
want to run a dc load during day time then it seems to
be very easy. But doing this is not a good decision
because
>> Most of the appliances need a constant rated
voltage to run efficiently. Solar panel voltage is not
constant it varies according to the sunlight.
>> If you want to run the appliances during the night
then it is impossible.
The above problem is solved by using a battery to
store the solar power during the day time and use it
according to your choice. It will provide a constant
source of stable, reliable power.
There is various kind of Batteries. Car and bike
batteries are designed for supplying short bursts of
high current and then be recharged and are not
designed for deep discharge. But the solar battery is
a deep-cycle lead-acid battery that allows for partial
discharge and allows for deep slow discharge. The
lead-acid tubular battery is perfect for a solar system.
Ni-MH batteries and Li-Ion batteries are also used in
many small power applications.
Note: Before going to choose the components to
decide your system voltage 12/24 or 48 V.Higher the
voltage lesser the current and lesser will be the
copper loss in the conductor. This will reduce your
conductor size also. Most of the small home solar
systems have 12 or 24 V.
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 5
In this project, I am selecting the 12 V system.
RATING OF BATTERY:
Batteries capacity are rated in term of Ampere Hour.
Power=Voltage X Current
Watt Hour =Voltage (Volts) x Current (Amperes) x
Time (Hours)
Battery Voltage = 12V ( as our system is 12V)
Battery capacity= Load /Voltage = 475/12 = 39.58 Ah
Practically battery are not ideal, so we have to
consider the loss. Let the battery loss is 15%.
So battery capacity required is 39.58 / 0.85 =46.56
Ah
For better battery life, they are not allowed to
discharge fully (100% ). For flooded lead-acid battery
60% depth of discharge (DOD) is considered as good
practice.
So Capacity Required = 46.56 /0.6 = 77.61 Ah
You can select a deep cycle lead-acid battery with a
capacity of more than 77.61 Ah.
You can round off to 80 Ah
https://youtu.be/oPzMkLtihLw

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 6

Step 4: CHARGE CONTROLLER SELECTION
A solar charge controller is a device that is placed
between a solar panel and a battery. It regulates the
voltage and current coming from your solar panels. It
is used to maintain the proper charging voltage on the
batteries. As the input voltage from the solar panel
rises, the charge controller regulates the charge to
the batteries preventing any overcharging.
Usually, the solar power systems use 12-volt
batteries, however, Solar panels can deliver far more
voltage than is required to charge the batteries. By, in
essence, converting the excess voltage into amps,
the charge voltage can be kept at an optimal level
while the time required to fully charge the batteries is
reduced. This allows the solar power system to
operate optimally at all times.
You can read my latest article on selecting the right
charge controller for your Solar PV System
Types of Charge controller :
1.ON OFF
2. PWM
3. MPPT
Among the 3 charge controllers, MPPT has the
highest efficiency but it is costly. So you can use
either PWM or MPPT.
https://youtu.be/qGmEz58Ixk4
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 7
MPPT Charge Controller is most effective under
these conditions :
1. Cold weather, cloudy or hazy days
2. When the battery is deeply discharged
Try to avoid the ON/OFF charge controller as it is the
least efficient.
RATING OF CHARGE CONTROLLER :
Since our system is rated 12V, the Charge controller
is also 12V
Current rating = Power output of Panels / Voltage =
120 W/ 12V = 10 A
By taking a 20% margin, you can choose a 10 x1.2 =
12A charge controller. But the next rating controller
available in the market is 15A. So choose a Charge
Controller of 12 V and a current rating of 15 A.
If you like to reduce your system cost you can make a
PWM charge controller. For step by step instruction,
you can see my instructable on PWM CHARGE
CONTROLLER.
You may also like my new design on Solar Charge
Controller.
Step 5: INVERTER SELECTION
The solar panel (PV) that receive the sun’s rays and
convert them into electricity called direct current (DC).
DC is then converted into alternating current (AC)
through a device called an Inverter. AC electricity
flows through every outlet of your home, powering the
appliances.
Types
1. Square Wave
2. Modified Sine Wave
3. Pure Sine Wave
Square wave inverter is cheaper among the all but
not suitable for all appliances. Modified Sine Wave
output is also not suitable for certain appliances,
particularly those with capacitive and electromagnetic
devices such as a fridge, microwave oven and most
kinds of motors. Typically modified sine wave
inverters work at lower efficiency than pure sine wave
inverters.
So as per my opinion choose a pure sine wave
inverter.
It may be grid-tied or stand-alone. In our case, it is
obviously stand alone.
RATING OF INVERTER :
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 8
The power rating should be equal or more than the
total load in watt at any instant.
In our case the maximum load at any instant = Tv
(50W) +Fan (80W) +CFL (11W) =141W
By taking some margin we can choose a 200W
inverter.
As our system is 12 v we have to select a 12V DC to
230V/50Hz or 110V/60Hz AC pure sine wave
inverter.
Note :
Appliances like fridge, hair drier, vacuum cleaner,
washing machine, etc likely to have their starting
power consumption several times greater than their
normal working power (typically this is caused by
electric motors or capacitors in such appliances). This
should be taken into account when choosing the right
size of the inverter.
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 9
Step 6: SERIES AND PARALLEL CONNECTION
After calculating the battery capacity and solar panel
rating you have to wire them. In many cases, the
calculated solar panel size or battery is not readily
available in the form of a single unit in the market. So
you have to add a small solar panel or batteries to
match your system requirement. To match the
required voltage and current rating we have to use
series and parallel connection.
1. Series Connection :
To wire any device in series you must connect the
positive terminal of one device to the negative
terminal of the next device. The device in our case
may be a solar panel or battery.
In series connection the individual voltages of each
device are additive.
Example :
lets 4 12V batteries are connected in series, then the
combination will produce 12 + 12 + 12 + 12 = 48
volts.
Lets two batteries of 12v,100Ah are connected in
parallel then the system voltage remains 12 volts but
the current rating is 100+100=200Ah. Similarly, if two
solar panels of 17V and 5 amps are connected in
parallel then the system will produce 17 Volts, 10
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 10
In a series combination, the current or amperage is
the same.
So if these devices were batteries and each battery
had a rating of 12 Volts and 100 Ah then the total
value of this series circuit would be 48 Volt, 100Ah. If
they were solar panels and each solar panel had a
rating of 17 volts(Osc voltage) and were rated at 5
amps each then the total circuit value would be 68
volts, 5 amps.
2. Parallel Connection :
In a parallel connection, you must connect the
positive terminal of the first device to the positive
terminal of the next device and negative terminal of
the first device to the negative terminal of the next
device.
In a parallel connection, the voltage remains the
same but the current rating of the circuit is a sum of
all the devices.
Example :
amps.
Step 7: WIRING
The first component we are going to wire is the
Charge Controller. At the bottom of the Charge
Controller, there are 3 signs in my charge controller.
The first one from the left is for the connection of the
Solar Panel having positive (+) and negative (-) sign.
The second one with plus (+) and minus (-) sign is for
the Battery connection and the last one for the direct
DC load connection like DC lights.
As per the charge controller manual always connect
the Charge Controller to the Battery first because this
allows the Charge Controller to get calibrated to
whether it is 12V or 24V system. Connect the red (+)
and black (-) wire from the battery bank to the charge
controller.
Note: First connect the black /negative wire from the
battery to the charge controller's negative terminal,
then connect the positive wire.
After connecting the battery with charge controller
you can see the Charge Controller indicator led lights
up to indicate the Battery level.
current. So the positive (+) is to be connected to
positive (+) and negative (-) with negative (-) from
Solar Panel to Charge Controller. If it gets mixed up,
the equipment can go burst and may catch fire. So
you need to be extremely careful when connecting
these wires. It is recommended to use 2 color wires
i.e. red and black color for positive (+) and negative (-
). If you don't have a red and black wire you may
wrap red and black tap at the terminals.
Connect the dc load or dc light at last.
Additional Protection :
Though charge controller and inverter have inbuilt
fuses for protection, you can put switches and fuses
in the following places for additional protection and
isolation.
1. In between solar panel and charge controller
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 11
After connecting this inverter terminal for battery
charging is connected to corresponding positive and
negative terminals of the battery.
Now you have to connect the solar panel to the
charge controller. At the backside of the Solar Panel,
there is a small junction box with 2 connected wires
with positive(+) and negative (-) sign. The terminal
wires are normally smaller in length. To connect the
wire to the charge controller you need a special type
connector which is commonly known as MC4
connector. See the picture. After connecting the solar
panel to the charge controller the green led indicator
will light if sunlight is present.
Note: Always connect the Solar Panel to Charge
Controller while facing the Panel away from the sun
or you may cover the panel with a dark material to
avoid sudden high voltage coming from the solar
panel to the Charge Controller which may damage it.
SAFETY :
It is important to note that we are dealing with the DC
2. In between the charge controller and battery bank
3. In between battery and inverter
Metering and Data logging :
If you are interested to know how much energy is
produced by your solar panel or how much energy is
consumed by the appliances you have to use energy
meters.
Besides this, you can monitor the different
parameters in your off-grid solar system by remote
data logging
For DIY based energy meter you can see my
instructable on ENERGY METER which has both
metering and data logging capability.
After wiring everything the off-grid Solar system is
ready for use.
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 12
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 13
Step 8: Selecting the Solar Cable
Updated on 22.07.2019
The current generated from the solar panels should
reach the Battery with minimum loss. Each cable has
its own ohmic resistance. The voltage drop due to this
resistance is according to Ohm’s law
V = I x R (Here V is the voltage drop across the
cable, R is the resistance and I is the current).
The resistance ( R ) of the cable depends on three
parameters:
1.Cable Length: Longer the cable, more is the
resistance
2. Cable Cross-section Area: Larger the area, smaller
is the resistance
3. The material used: Copper or Aluminum. Copper
has lesser resistance compared to Aluminium
In this application, copper cable is preferable.
You can calculate the cable size by using RENOGY
online calculator.
You need to enter the following parameters :
1. Solar Panel Operating Voltage (Vmp)
2. Solar Panel Operating Current (Imp)
3. Cable Length from Solar Panel to Battery
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 14
4. The expected loss in percentage
The first two parameters ( Vmp and Imp) can be
easily found from the specification sheet on the
backside of the solar panel or from the datasheet.
The cable length depends on your installation. The
loss percentage considered for good design is around
2 to 3%.
In the earlier step, we have already finalized the Solar
panel, the rating. From the Solar panel specification
sheet Vmp = 36.7V and Imp = 6.94A ( rounded off to
next higher number i.e 37V and 7A). Let the distance
between the Solar panel and the Battery is 30 feet
and the expected loss is 2%. By using the above
values in the online calculator by RENOGY, The
cable size is 12 AWG.
The calculation screenshot is also attached for
reference.
You can buy the Solar cables from Amazon or
Aliexpress
You can read my Instructables on Selecting Solar
Cables and How to Make MC4 Connector.
Note: The voltage grade of the cable should be
matched with the Solar Panel maximum system
voltage.
Image Credit: Banggood
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 15
Step 9: Selecting the Correct Size Power Inverter Battery Cables
Updated on 17.12.2019
It is very important to be sure you are using the
appropriate cable size for your inverter/battery. Failing
to do so could lead to your inverter not supporting full
loads and overheating, which is a potential fire
hazard. Use this as a guide for choosing the proper
cable size, and be sure to contact a professional
electrician or our tech team with any additional
questions you may have.
1. What size inverter do you have?
2. What is the DC voltage of your battery bank?
3. Now divide the inverter’s wattage by your battery
voltage; this will give you the maximum current for
your cables.
Example Calculation
Current (Amps ) = Power (Watts ) / Voltage (Volt)
Consider 1500 Watt inverter connected to the 24V
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 16
battery bank.
(1500 W)/(24 Vdc)=62.5 A
So, 62.5 A is the maximum current that the cable
needs to support in order to properly provide the
current to the inverter. The next higher size available
on the table is 100A.
Use the above chart as a guide to determine which
size cable will be best for your application.
In our example, we can see that 2/0 AWG cable
would be appropriate.
NOTE: For distances over 10 feet, the voltage drop
over the cables will occur due to resistance through
the wiring. If you will need to run cables longer than
10 feet, it is recommended that you increase the
cable size in order to compensate for voltage loss. If
you are unsure about your application feel free to give
us a call and we will be able to assist you in finding
the right cable.
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 17
Step 10: MOUNTING THE SOLAR PANEL
After design the solar system. Buy all the
components with an appropriate rating as per the
previous steps.
Now it is time to mount the solar panel. First, choose
a suitable location on the rooftop where there is no
obstruction sunlight.
Prepare the mounting stand: You can make it on
your own or it is better to buy one from any store. In
my case, I have taken the drawing from the solar
panel company and made it at a nearby welding
shop. The tilt of the stand is nearly equal to the
latitude angle of your location.
I made a small wooden mounting stand for my 10
Watt solar panel. I have attached the pictures so that
anyone can make it easy.
Tilting: To get the most from solar panels, you need
to point them in the direction that captures the
maximum sunlight. Use one of these formulas to find
the best angle from the horizontal at which the panel
should be tilted:
>> If your latitude is below 25°, use the latitude times
0.87.
>> If your latitude is between 25° and 50°, use the
latitude, times 0.76, plus 3.1 degrees.
For more details on tilting click here
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 18
First place the stand in such a way that the face is
directed towards the south.Mark the leg position over
the roof.
To get the south direction use this android app
compass
Then make a rough surface at each leg of the stand
by using a sharp object. I made around 1Sq feet size
rough surface over the roof at each leg. This is helpful
for perfect bonding between the roof and concrete.
Prepare concrete mix: Take cement and stones with
a 1:3 ratio then add water to make a thick mix. Pour
concrete mix at each leg of the stand. I made a heap
shape concrete mix to give maximum strength.
Mounts the panels to the stand:At the backsides,
the solar panel has inbuilt holes for mounting. Match
the solar panel holes with the stand/platform holes
and screw them together.
Wire the solar panel: At the back sides of the solar
panel a small junction box is there with a positive and
negative sign for polarity. In a large-size solar panel,
this junction box has terminal wires with MC4
connector but for small size panel, you have to
connect the junction box with external wires. Always
try to use red and black wire for the positive and
negative terminal connection. If there is provision for
earth wire the use a green wire for wiring this.
DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 19
Step 11: INVERTER AND BATTERY STAND

I made the above inverter and battery stand by the
help of a carpenter. The design idea I got from this
instructable. The design is really helpful for me.
At the backside, I made a big circular hole just behind
the inverter fan for fresh air suction from outside.
Later I covered the hole by using plastic wire mesh.
Few small holes are also made for inserting the wires
from solar panel, charge controller and inverter to the
battery and ac output to the appliances. At both sides
panel, 3 horizontal holes are provided for sufficient
ventilation. A glass window is provided at the front
side to view the different led indications in the
inverter.
In the inclined plane of the inverter stand, I have
mounted the charge controller. In the future, I will
install my own made energy meter also.

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 20

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 21
Step 12: Solar PV Design Worksheet

I found a nicely documented worksheet on Solar PV system.

Design from Renewable Energy Innovation page.
I hope it will be useful. The full credit goes to the
This is a simple design worksheet for stand-alone authors of Re-Innovation
solar PV systems. It explains the design process and
explains some of the practicalities of building a

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 22

 Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FM3/BINJ/JUGT7F5C/FM3BINJJUGT7F5C.pdf
…

Wow, this is a great site , I learn a lot. I appreciate the CEO and the content posters

Very useful workbook for design Solar off-Grid power plant. Helpful for beginners, Learners and
trainers to train trainees.
Krishna shrivastava
07415324645

deba168, I want to thank you so much for posting this article. I am not an electrical engineer so
many of the articles already on Instructables on this subject or on the internet seemed incomplete
to me because they did not explain many of the details that you did. Perhaps for the electrically
inclinded those finer points are common knowledge and not necessary, but for me it exactly what I
needed. The step-by-step approach with explanations and links to products was fantastic.
I have never written an Instructable but I appreciate all the time and effort it requires to write
something like this, so thank you very, very much.
Glad my work is helpful for you.
Your kind words really motivate me to write an article like this in the future.
Thank you so much.
Good post great guy!

Which circuit breaker should i choose for a small 300 w system...

Done 12VDC automated lighting system & 220VAC emergency system

- 140W Poly Solar Panel
- 100A VRLA Battery
- 10A PWM Controller
- 5W LED Bulb x 5
- 1000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
- Multiple Circuit Breakers

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 23

9w2xez@gmail.com

Bos boleh kongsi dgn saye tak carenye ini email saye wanmuhdhafiz@gmail.com

Informative. Thanks

Is there any way to build a system that pulls from a battery first, and then would pull from the grid
after you used up all the electricity that got stored throughout the day from solar?
Are you in the US? You can install solar panels and feed them into the grid if so. By law the power
companies have to buy any electricity you produce. In some states it's much easier to implement
than others though, check with local solar companies. You always use off the grid, but whatever
you produce is fed into the grid during daytime. That offsets your electric bill. In most states the
electric company just gives you a credit for whatever you produce, not a check in the mail.
There are automatic switches for generators that switch from grid to generator during a power
outage. Shouldn't be hard to create something similar that will auto switch over when battery level
is down. Those auto power outage switches aren't cheap though. Controlling the switch could be
done with an Arduino or similar controleer, but you'd still need the heavy duty switch to switch over
the load.
Important consideration: when you are selling your solar power into the grid the IRS gets involved
and you will PAY taxes for the wonderful earnings of your solar array. If you are looking at ROI for
your grid-tied system it might be a small thing or a large thing depending on your situation so just
be aware especially if you are trying to save money over time.
Now at night when you draw energy from the grid... you're still paying the same rate as everyone
without any panels, no tax refund.
Hey, one thing i see all the time with solar projects is all anybody uses is 12v deep cycle batteries.
These batteries were mostly meant for boats, high cranking amps and could be discharged more
without killing the life of the battery. The best battery to use is deep cycle 6v batteries wired in
series to give you one big 12v battery. If you want lots of power stored for longer use, use 6v batts.
Another thing that you need to think of if you are going off grid is your solar array needs to be big
enough to not only run the things you want but also put out enough power to recharge the batteries
at the same time or each time you start to use the batteries they will just be drained more and more
until they are dead. System needs to be bigger than for just running the house. If you are totally off
grid then your system needs to keep the batteries charged the whole time the house is draining
power. Same thing either way you look at it.
Thanks for the information, please i have a question if i am to use 2 6V instead of 1 big 12v battery,
does the AH size matters? what i am interested in is getting lots of power power stored for longer
use.
Having made something similar (though not yet solar powered) the capacity doesn't matter as long
as both series batteries are the same. (Which is why I use 12v fire alarm rated sla batteries
instead.) My total capacity on 12v is around 500Ah (about 6000wh...) with a 1000w inverter on it
that I've never run past 500w.

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 24

Is there a battery for an off grid system that will power a 220v appliance?

You'll need an inverter capable of supplying 220vac. They do make them, but 115vac is more
common in the us.
Seeing the usual gushing over "solar" energy, a contrarian point of view is needed. "Solar" energy
is, obviously, nothing but battery power. I'll stick to the grid any day rather than see a countryside
littered with millions of dead batteries. Let the energy companies do what they do best. Of course,
it's fun to mess with the technology but, as a practical matter of sunlight availability especially in
certain parts of the country, you're going to go to the grid someday for some period of time...and it
ain't gonna be cheap. The only really viable application is where there is no grid (unless we're
talking about the poles!)
These dead batteries have a lot of value. There will be those who throw them out, but most people
will sell them. It is much like the issue of people littering $20 bills all over.
Great summary. However it would be useful to know approximate costs of various options and
vendors, fully realizing that in most cases stuff will only get cheaper.
Thanks
Yep - how about some ballpark figures?

Note: if you are in the southern hemisphere then face your panel towards the north.

Didn't find a single word in your instructable about protective glass. This is very important as proper
glass might be more expensive than solar modules
We powered all our electrical needs on a 40 ft boat we lived aboard for 11 yrs. We bought
Kyrocera245 watt panels X 3 for $1.00 a watt delivered in 2010 and in 2014 they hd gone up in
price because of demand. Our battery bank was 12 group 31 AGM batteries on a MPPT controller.
We ran a chest freezer and full size refrigerator. plus regular stuff for daily life. For AC we had to
have shore power. I don't think prices have come down in the 30 yrs I have been using solar.
Nothing is free!
Awesome tutorial! i'm based in new zealand and are currently looking for an off-grid solar solution
for my small batch (too expensive to connect to the grid), any vendor options?
what exactly is the DC load in the diagram?
what fuse size do you put in at the 3 places suggested for additional protection and
can a circuit breaker be used in the place of the fuse?
Ok, I know all of the components I need except for the wiring. I need to know exactly....starting
from the panels what I need to connect 4 panels together then to the charge controller.
Nice tutorial. Very instructive. Thanks

Best tutorial in the internet. Thanks a lot.

Great tutorial :) Thank you

What a great explanation. I learned a lot from this article. Thank you.

well explained sir

I have a house in Puerto Rico and the grid is dead there. I know only the little bit I've read about off
grid power and want to get my house up and running as efficiently and economically as possible
but want to make it a decent enough system to expand and continue even if/when our area has
grid capable service again. I'd rather not ever be dependent on the grid again. I like the idea of the
NiFe batteries. I'm not always there to maintain a system with finicky batteries. Once up, I need a

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 25

fairly carefree system. Also, I need the system to be modular so that I can remove panels when
dangerous storms are coming. Can a system be made for quick disassembly and reassembly
before and after major storms?
You have not mentioned NiFe (Nickel Iron)
Batteries as a storage option.
I have gone off the grid because of the antics of our power companies. I have a 10 kW solar array,
SMA Sunny Island 8.0
Inverter/Charger/Controller, 2 X 5 kW SMA Sunny Boy inverters, and 40 X 2
Volt NiFe 600 amp hour batteries, providing 48 volts. According to the
manufacturer I have approximately 3 days autonomy. I also have a diesel 20 KVA generator as
backup in case the sun goes off line. The generator is able to charge the batteries or run the
house, so there is no loss of power should I need to isolate the batteries for maintenance or any
other reason.
The batteries cost a
bit more, but for anyone interested in doing their own research, there
are Nickel Iron batteries built in the early 1900s that are still in use today.
Overcharging and 90% DOD have no detrimental effect on these batteries. They do not achieve
full potential until they run through about 50 cycles.
This link will take you to an Australian site. The menu at the top will take you through the site-
http://www.ironcorebatteries.com.au/page3.php

For
me, Lithium Ion batteries have not been around long enough, and the
long term effects/benefits/problems are not known. I don't believe that
Tesla's Power Wall is as good or efficient as they are touted to be.
Lead
acid is not the greatest technology for storage, given that DOD is
around 20% before shortening battery life, and overcharging has an even
more detrimental effect. Lead acid would need to be replaced regularly,
some say 6 to eight years, but for this post, I will assume 10 year
life span before needing replacement.
Bottom line is that I have
spent almost $20K for my batteries, but I will never have to replace
them in my life time, and I don't believe my children will have to
replace them either, and possibly the grandchildren as well.
I would be interested to hear any comments.
I have a house in Puerto Rico and the grid is dead there. I know only the little bit I've read about off
grid power and want to get my house up and running as efficiently and economically as possible
but want to make it a decent enough system to expand and continue even if/when our area has
grid capable service again. I'd rather not ever be dependent on the grid again. I like the idea of the
NiFe batteries. I'm not always there to maintain a system with finicky batteries. Once up, I need a
fairly carefree system. Also, I need the system to be modular so that I can remove panels when
dangerous storms are coming. Can a system be made for quick disassembly and reassembly
before and after major storms?
I too want to join this bandwagon. Currently I have a grid tie system of two Sunny Boy 5Kw
invertors and 30 Solar PV panels delivering 9.8 KW DC. All in all I get 8 KW AC from the invertors.
Looking forward to integrating NiFe battery bank to complete my system. Would appreciate any
pointers.

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 26

Hi. If you want to build it yourself just google for 'inplix' . I know you'll find good solutions for your
idea.
Thanks for tip

As a vendor of DIY off grid solar systems, these notes are excellent! In fact we use ones that are
very similar when calculating loads. Feel free to compare with our site sunsolutionssa.com. Good
luck to all and thank you for getting off the grid and doing your part to help the planet and your
wallet!
Awesome definitely will use your notes to guide me set up my solar power system.

hi. I have a ups and I want to know if it canbe used instead of buying a new inverter.

AGM deep cycle batteries should only be taken to 50% depth of discharge to maximize battery life
span. Your example math assumes it will be 100% DOD and that will destroy the battery in a very
short time.
Battery amp hours are normally quoted at a 20 hour rate for greatest efficiency. So a 35 Ah battery
at that rate will give you 1.75 amps an hour or 21 watts an hour at 12 volts. Expect only 50% of that
to be usable without trashing the battery.
Running a 200 watt inverter full bore from a 35 Ah battery will last about an hour and also destroy
the battery quickly. At the 1 hour rate you can expect about 300 watts and your inverter will be
tripping the low voltage shutoff alarm very quickly.
For comparison a 180 watt cigarette lighter plug car inverter circuit would need a 15 amp fuse and
you would only use it with the car running and with enough spare capacity from the alternator.
For your example you will probably want 2 35 Ah batteries to go with your 125 watt panel to
maximize battery lifespan. If you need to pull the full 200 watts for any length of time you will need
a whole lot more battery and hence more solar.
Actually the battery will have more than rated capacity at current draws less than the 20 hour rate
due to the Peukert effect. The reverse is true as well.
Also, "watts an hour" is meaningless. A watt is a measure of power, which is energy per unit time,
already a rate of energy flow.
If the loss is 30%, the correct calculation is 365/(1-0.3)=521 (not 475). This is 10% more than the
calculation shown.
I already know about components like Solar Panels, Charge Controllers, etc. But the wires and
fuses I don't quite understand entirely. What Gauge do I need to buy? What sizes, lengths? Where
do the fuses need to go? What kind of fuses do I need to buy do then need to be different Amp
fuses or all the same Amp? Do you have to modify and cut cords in order to connect them to
Charge Controllers or do they sell them premodified so you don't have to cut them yourself? These
are the things nobody ever explains!
Per day 7 unit electricity consumption based calculation needed. I think 7 unit electricity
consumption means 7000 watt by 24 hour. how many 250watt Solar panel, how many 12 volt
battery, which charge controller and what capacity Inverter needed. With the above requirement
please provide calculation step by step.
In our electricity bill we found unit consumed. Is it possible to take that to revere calculation for
requirement of Solar panel, battery, and inverted ? If so plz guide.
Hello, I have a question about powering a security camera with a 12V battery. If I trickle charge the
battery with a solar panel will it work? The cameras are dual voltage 12v dc or 24v ac
Hello, I want to power 150 watt 220 volt heater with solar panel without using batteries. Can you
Help in configuring it? Please help. Also I am interested in Grid sharing inverter. Any good model

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 27

made in India
Thanks.
This is hard to do without having batteries, you need to regulate the voltage VERY accurately to
power things directly. This will depend on the sun position, panel angle, etc. You'd have to find
some sort of controller or regulator and have many solar panels to power things directly. I'd highly
recommend you just finding some used deep cycle 12v batteries to act as a buffer and power soak.

DIY OFF GRID SOLAR SYSTEM: Page 28