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CRITICAL REVIEWS

Characteristics of the Aging Skin

Miranda A. Farage,1,* Kenneth W. Miller,1 Peter Elsner,2


and Howard I. Maibach3
1
The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio.
2
Klinik Fur Dermatologic, Jena, Germany.
3
Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco, California.

Significance: Although most researches into the changes in skin with age fo-
cus on the unwelcome aesthetic aspects of the aging skin, skin deterioration
with age is more than a merely cosmetic problem. Although mortality from
skin disease is primarily restricted to melanoma, dermatological disorders are
ubiquitous in older people with a significant impact on quality of life. The
structural and functional deterioration of the skin that occurs with age
has numerous clinical presentations, ranging from benign but potentially
excruciating disorders like pruritus to the more threatening carcinomas and Miranda A. Farage, MSc, PhD
melanomas. Submitted for publication February 22, 2012.
Recent Advances: The degenerative changes that occur in the aging skin are *Correspondence: The Procter and Gamble
increasingly understood at both the molecular and cellular level, facilitating a Company, Winton Hill Business Center, 6110
Center Hill Road, Box 136, Cincinnati, OH 45224
deeper understanding of the structural and functional deterioration that these (e-mail: farage.m@pg.com).
changes produce.
Critical Issues: A loss of both function and structural stability in skin proceeds
unavoidably as individuals age, which is the result of both intrinsic and ex- Abbreviations
trinsic processes, which contribute simultaneously to a progressive loss of skin and Acronyms
integrity. Intrinsic aging proceeds at a genetically determined pace, primarily CLSM = confocal laser
caused by the buildup of damaging products of cellular metabolism as well as scanning microscopy
an increasing biological aging of the cells. Estrogen levels strongly influence DNA = deoxyribonucleic acid
skin integrity in women as well; falling levels in midlife, therefore, produce
ERT = estrogen replacement
premature aging as compared with similarly aged men. Extrinsic insults from therapy
the environment add to the dermatological signs of aging.
OCT = optical coherence
Future Directions: A deeper understanding of the physiological basis of skin
tomography
aging will facilitate progress in the treatment of the unwelcome sequelae of
aging skin, both cosmetic and pathogenic. ROS = reactive oxygen species
TEWL = transepidermal water
loss

SCOPE of aging. The skin is also the most


Life expectancy in the United visible indicator of age.
States and other industrialized coun- The skin, a full one-sixth of body
tries continues to increase and is weight, is a sophisticated and dy-
expected to reach 100 years by about namic organ, which serves as a bul-
2025.1 Women have longer average wark between the sensitive internal
life expectancies than do men and can tissues of the body and the external
thus soon expect to spend more than environment. Not a mere barrier, the
one-third of their lifetimes in meno- integument is involved in the main-
pause.2 The skin is incredibly durable, tenance of body temperature and in-
but like all other systems, it eventu- ternal hydration, sensory functions,
ally succumbs to the inexorable effects and immunological surveillance.

ADVANCES IN WOUND CARE, VOLUME 2, NUMBER 1


Copyright ª 2013 by Mary Ann Liebert, Inc. DOI: 10.1089/wound.2011.0356
j 5
6 FARAGE ET AL.

The process of aging affects the skin in multiple Although rarely fatal, dermatological disorders
ways. The epidermis thins and turnover rate slows can contribute significantly to a loss of quality of
dramatically.3 Despite a substantial loss of func- life in an individual’s latter years and deserve
tion in aging skin, most skin-aging therapies focus attention. Understanding the basic physiological
on ending or reversing the unwelcome visible signs processes of aging as well as the spectrum of its
of aging. As the population ages, the care of aging effects on the skin will facilitate the efficacy of
skin must shift focus from aesthetic concerns to future treatments.
how the loss of structure and function affects
quality of life.
CLINICAL RELEVANCE
Aged skin undergoes progressive structural and
TARGET ARTICLES functional degeneration that leaves it prone to a
1. Farage MA, Miller KW, Elsner P, and wide variety of bothersome and possibly even fa-
Maibach HI: Functional and physiological tal conditions and diseases, including eczema, as-
characteristics of the aging skin. Aging Clin Exp teatotic eczema, contact and allergic dermatitis,
Res 2008; 20: 195 (Review). seborrheic dermatitis, autoimmune diseases with
2. Krueger N, Luebberding S, Oltmer M, cutaneous manifestations, seborrheic keratoses,
Streker M, and Kerscher M: Age-related chan- and various forms of neoplasms, such as basal
ges in skin mechanical properties: a quantitative and squamous cell carcinoma and malignant
evaluation of 120 female subjects. Skin Res melanoma.8–11
Technol 2011; 17: 141. The majority of senior adults have at least one
treatable skin complaint, and many have more.
These can be severe and may significantly impact
TRANSLATIONAL RELEVANCE quality of life in the older patient.7,12 As the per-
Skin ages in both men and women through centage of elderly in the population continues to
parallel internal and external processes, which increase, their dermatological problems increase in
contribute simultaneously to a progressive loss clinical significance.
of skin integrity. Structural stability as well as
physiological function are affected. Estrogen levels
also strongly influence skin integrity in women; EXPERIMENTAL MODEL OR MATERIAL:
falling levels in midlife contribute to earlier signs of ADVANTAGES AND LIMITATIONS
aging.8 Intrinsic aging proceeds at different rates The human skin is a large and surprisingly
in all organisms at a genetically determined pace, complex organ, which not only provides protection
caused primarily by the buildup of reactive oxygen for internal tissues, but also facilitates neurosen-
species (ROS) as a by-product of cellular metabo- sory, circulatory, and immunological functions
lism. ROS, in turn, cause damage to critical cellular at the body surface. As such, evaluation of the
components like membranes, enzymes, and deox- structural and functional changes that occur as the
yribonucleic acid (DNA). In addition, as individual body ages relies on a wide variety of direct and in-
ages, skin cells are also biologically aging. Pro- direct measurements of specific skin parameters.
liferation rates consequently begin to drop in the Such parameters include biochemical evaluations
epidermis, inducing a steady deterioration of skin of skin condition; structural assessments of skin,
structure and function.4 including thickness, collagen content and turn-
Exogenous insults also contribute to the aging over, and cell size; as well as functional assess-
process. Ultraviolet light, for example, can cause ments, such as elasticity, torsion extensibility,
thousands of cellular DNA alterations each day,5 neuroperception, transepidermal water loss
causing cumulative damage to skin that amplifies (TEWL), and proliferation rate. These assessments
normal chronological decline. Environmental in- are achieved through a variety of laboratory and
sults in the form of pollution or cigarette smoke in vivo analyses as well as scanning electron mi-
also accelerate natural aging processes.6 croscopy, confocal laser scanning microscopy
The effects of skin aging, both internal and ex- (CLSM), optical coherence tomography (OCT), and
ternal, have the potential to produce significant ultrasound echogenicity.13 These methods applied
morbidity. Most people over 65, in fact, have at to a human skin model provide the most complete
least one skin disorder, and many have two or and rigorous understanding of the effects of aging
more.7 In addition, the aging of the very visible in human beings, and as such is far preferable to
integument is often psychologically distressing. using other models. Using human skin as a model,
CHARACTERISTICS OF AGING SKIN 7

however, obviously comes with many constraints come bigger as a result of decreased epidermal
that limit the scope of research as well as what turnover.19 Enzymatically active melanocytes de-
specific information can be obtained, as obtaining crease at a rate of 8% to 20% per decade, resulting
volunteers and Ethics Board approval adds both in uneven pigmentation in elderly skin.20 Although
time and expense to every study undertaken. the number of sweat glands does not change, se-
Maximizing the study of aging in the human skin bum production decreases as much as 60%.13
while taking advantage of the substantial body of A reduction of the natural water and fat emul-
research using other models can contribute to a sion on the skin is observed,21 as is water content in
comprehensive understanding of the underlying the stratum corneum.16,22,23 Global lipid content of
physiological processes that result in the age-re- the aged skin is reduced as much as 65%.19 Changes
lated deterioration of skin integrity.13 in the amino acid composition in aged skin23 may
reduce the amount of cutaneous natural moistur-
izing factor, thereby decreasing its capacity for
DISCUSSION OF FINDINGS water binding.22 Baseline TEWL decreases with
AND RELEVANT LITERATURE age,16,24 an observation that is believed to be due to
Physiological changes in aged skin include the reduction of the water content of aged skin.
structural and biochemical changes as well as Recovery of baseline TEWL values after occlusion16
changes in neurosensory perception, permeability, or tape stripping25 is also slower in older skin, re-
response to injury, repair capacity, and increased vealing a profound change in barrier integrity de-
incidence of some skin diseases. Although the spite the fact that barrier function in aged skin
number of cell layers remains stable,14 the skin under normal conditions appears normal.13
thins progressively over adult life at an accelerating The most consistent structural change in aged
rate.15 The epidermis decreases in thickness,16 skin is a flattening of the dermo-epidermal junction
particularly in women and particularly on the face, by more than a third (Figure 1),26–28 which occurs
neck, upper part of the chest, and the extensor as a result of the loss of dermal papillae27 as well as
surface of the hands and forearms.17 Thickness de- a reduced interdigitation between layers.14 This
creases about 6.4% per decade on average, with an flattening, observable by scanning electron mi-
associated reduction in epidermal cell numbers.15,18 croscopy beginning in the sixth decade,15 results in
Keratinocytes, as skin ages, change shape, be- less resistance to shearing forces and an increased
coming shorter and fatter, while corneocytes be- vulnerability to insult.14 The smaller contiguous

Figure 1. Differences in skin structure between younger and older skin. Color images available online at www.liebertpub.com/wound
8 FARAGE ET AL.

surface between the two layers also cre-


TAKE-HOME MESSAGE
ates a reduced cellular supply of nutri-
27
ents and oxygen, and an increased risk Basic science advances
The basic mechanisms that contribute to the aging of the human integument
of dermo-epidermal separation, a process
continue to be unraveled.
which may be the mechanism by which
wrinkles form.26,27  Structural stability requires stability throughout the epidermis, dermis,
Dermis thickness decreases with age;15 and hypodermis and depends on maintenance of skin thickness, collagen
thinning is accompanied by a decrease in integrity, maintenance of a normal collagen matrix, adequate rates of
both vascularity and cellularity.19 There skin cell turnover, maintenance of normal lipid content, and proper
is also a decrease in the number of mast barrier function and hydration.
12
cells and fibroblasts. The amount of  Functional integrity of the aging skin is associated with maintenance of
glycosaminoglycans in the dermis de- acidic pH, vitamin D levels, neurosensory function, percutaneous ab-
clines with age,26,27 as does the amount of sorption, adequate vascularization, immune surveillance, temperature
hyaluronic acid produced by fibro- regulation, and capacity for injury repair.
blasts26,27 and the amount of inter-  Though it remains largely impenetrable to external insult, the skin
fibrillary ground substance.29 changes profoundly over a lifetime, becoming progressively compromised
Aging is inevitably associated with a in numerous ways with regard to both structure and function.
decrease in collagen turnover (due to a  As the average human lifespan continues to increase, the dermatological
decrease in fibroblasts and their collagen needs of the aging skin become more important. Utilizing the increasing
synthesis) as well as elastin.12 Elastin knowledge of the molecular and cellular components of skin aging will
also has higher degree of calcification in facilitate more effective treatments of skin in old age.
aged skin, with an associated degradation
of elastin fibers.17 Collagen crosslinks Clinical science advances
stabilize, while collagen bundles become Overall improvements in medicine, nutrition, and health awareness in in-
disorganized.12 dustrialized countries have contributed to a steadily increasing lifespan in those
The loss of molecular integrity of the areas. As the human lifespan continues to increase, the health of the human
dermis leads to increased rigidity, de- integument (the largest organ in the body) becomes more important, as do the
creased torsion extensibility,26 and di- myriad of skin disorders, which plague the elderly. Ongoing research is giving us
23 a vastly improved understanding of the basic components of healthy skin and
minished elasticity, eroding faster in
23 providing a foundation for clinical progress in the dermatological issues of the
women than in men, with a concomitant
increase in vulnerability to tear-type in- elderly.
26
juries. Recovery from mechanical de-
pression, in fact, is dramatically altered— Relevance to clinical care
observed in only minutes in young skin, Knowledge gained from basic studies of skin degeneration in old age will
but requiring more than 24 h in skin of contribute to slow the pace of skin aging or reverse its effects. Maintaining
aged individuals. 26 normal cellular proliferation, reversing the intrinsic aging of cells, reversing
CLSM and OCT display a definite de- lifestyle-related damage that contributes to premature aging, maximizing the
benefits of ERT on skin while at the same time minimizing possible safety
crease in the maximal thickness of the
issues, and utilizing epidermal stem cell therapies are currently of interest in
epidermis as well as a flattening of the
new therapeutical approaches.
dermo-epidermal junction.26 A reflecting
layer of fibrous structure was also ob-
served below the basal layer, much deeper in
younger than in older skin.26 A similar bright, re- INNOVATION
flecting age-associated fibrous layer in the dermis As the processes that contribute to skin aging
was also observed through OCT. These layers may continue to be unraveled, researchers increasingly
be the transition between papillary and reticular seek to employ newly gained knowledge to develop
dermis.26 effective antiaging therapies. Estrogen receptors
The overall volume of subcutaneous fat typically are found in nearly every tissue in the body and
diminishes with age, although the proportion of influence the function of all organ systems in a
body fat increases until approximately age 70. Fat woman. This is especially true of the largest organ,
distribution changes as well; that is, it decreases in skin. Women’s skin, due to the estrogen depletion
the face, hands, and feet while a relative increase is associated with menopause, ages at an accelerated
observed in the thighs, waist, and abdomen. These pace as compared with men, with both structural
changes possibly act to increase thermoregulatory and functional deterioration observed. Systemic
13
function by further insulating organs. estrogen replacement therapy (ERT) has been
CHARACTERISTICS OF AGING SKIN 9

shown to achieve dramatic reversals of skin aging. simultaneously minimizing associated risks.31
Estrogen therapy reverses the thinning of aging Extensive, well-designed clinical studies, which
skin by both increasing collagen synthesis and re- evaluate outcomes relative to initiation and dura-
tarding collagen degradation, decreases wrinkles tion of hormone replacement, are necessary for
by stimulating the synthesis of type III collagen estrogen-dependent therapies targeting the phys-
and hyaluronic acids, and increases skin hydration iological processes of skin aging to confidently
and barrier function, making aging skin less dry. move forward.
Despite the well-documented benefit of ERT to
aging skin, concerns about the safety of long-term
FUTURE DEVELOPMENT OF INTEREST
estrogen use to other organs have limited its use-
fulness. New approaches, including topical estro- A stem cell population has been identified in the
gens, phytoestrogens, and tissue-specific drugs epidermis that, though smaller than originally
called selective estrogen receptor modulators, are anticipated, has the capability of reconstituting the
now being explored, and may prove valuable in squamous epithelium.32 This finding has obvious
maintaining optimal skin health in the postmeno- potential for dermatologic antiaging therapies.
pausal period.30 More researches that are recent have discovered
that in fact, unlike internal stem cells, these epi-
dermal stem cells show little evidence of normal
CAUTION, CRITICAL REMARKS, age-dependent effects; they do not decrease in
AND RECOMMENDATIONS number with age, nor do they appear to suffer any
Estrogen replacement recreates the biochemical loss of function. Moreover, within these epidermal
context of youthful skin and is therefore the most stem cells, there is no evidence of changes in gene
promising foundation for future therapies aimed at expression or developmental responsiveness or of
reversing or slowing down skin aging. Women have any buildup of the ROS that contribute substan-
significantly more estrogen receptors than do men tially to cellular degeneration.33 Further charac-
and these receptors occur in virtually every female terization of these cells, particularly with regard to
tissue. Estrogen and other sex steroids are well acquiring a comprehensive of the molecular and
demonstrated to have a significant influence on cellular components of their unique resistance to
skin biology and structure, with significant influ- aging, could greatly facilitate further therapies for
ence on epidermal keratinocytes, dermal fibro- aging skin.
blasts, melanocytes, hair follicles, and sebaceous
glands. Threshold levels of estrogen, in fact, are ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
hypothesized to be critical for maintenance of skin AND FUNDING SOURCES
integrity. Skin thickness has been observed to in- The authors are grateful to Drs. S. McClanahan,
crease with rising menstrual levels of estrogen and, Randy Nunn, Keith Ertel, Don Bissett, and Joe
estrogen stimulates DNA repair. Skin aging can be Kaczvinsky for the critical review of this article, to
significantly delayed by the administration of es- Ms. Zeinab Schwen and Ms. Wendy Wippel (Stra-
trogen at menopause; moreover, nearly every tegic Regulatory Consulting, Cincinnati, OH) for
structural and functional change, which accom- writing assistance, and to Ms. Peggy Firth for the
panies the menopause in women, has been demon- medical illustrations.
strated to be at least partially reversible with ERT.
However, replacement therapy has been associ-
ated by some studies with an increased risk of AUTHOR DISCLOSURE
cardiovascular disorders. Current research sug- AND GHOSTWRITING
gests that appropriate timing of replacement No conflicts of interest exist. No ghostwriters
therapy may be key to maximizing efficacy while were used to write this article.

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