DOG ADOPTION 101

Assessment/Behavioral/ Rehabilitation/Training Pointers

(ABRT) in a Nutshell

YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES
Main responsibility - provide a safe, loving home environment for your dog's natural life. This entails offering food, affection,
socialization, play, training and exercise to keep the dog happy and healthy. It also involves considering the dog as part of your

family, ensuring that it's up to date with all its registrations and medical procedures and arranging for boarding or travel (in case of

relocation).

You must do the following:

Report back to the rescue workers with updates on a regular basis for 2 years;

Strictly follow the instructions provided for the first 3 days until the dog feels SAFE to come out of its space;

Educate yourself on basic behavioral signs, poisonous foods and plants, and positive reinforcement training;

Never let the dog go to the garden, balcony or terrace on its own, bring in other animals from outside and take dogs that didn't

complete ALL vaccinations outside of home environment;

Owning a dog is a lifetime commitment that involves time, effort, lifestyle adjustments and
financial resources.

MOST IMPORTANT RULE - LET A DOG BE A DOG

Never try and force the dog to do anything they do not want to, never pull, drag, push, chase, run after or try & attempt anything with
negative signals. STOP, walk away and try again in an hour, the next day week or month when the dog lets you know its ready. This is

even more important due to the 3 types of street dogs we get:

1. Been abused physically or mentally and have a fear of humans;

2. Been fed and watered occasionally but still wary;

3. Met a kind person who fed and watered and got to know them and built trust (our feeder does this for years to get dogs off the

streets).

THE REASON - We cannot set up traps due to theft so we catch them as humanely as possible with little or limited stress
by covering with blankets to black everything out and make them feel SAFE. Any dogs caught by a trap are transferred

slowly at its will. Why? The more stress they experience, the more issues they present from Day 1.

PREPARING FOR YOUR DOG

WHAT WE WILL/CAN PROVIDE* WHAT WE RECOMMEND TO PURCHASE
*(DEPENDING ON AVAILABILITY)
Some form of barricade to off-limit areas, e.g.
Dog passport/ vaccination booklet;
baby gate, fence from carton;
Collar/ harness and leash;
Play pen, crate or something similar (to create a
Dog food (specific for your pup for several days);
safe space for the dog), e.g. drape blankets over
Puppy pee pads and poop bags (for several day);
chairs, make a pillow fort;
Blanket/ dog bed/ pillow that is familiar to the dog (smell will
Bicarbonate of soda and vinegar (remove traces of
help it relax);
urine & feces from surfaces), or any other pet-safe
Dog toy(s) that is familiar to or loved by the dog;
cleaner;

Dog-safe toys, e.g. toys for teething;

Dog bed/ blanket;

Puppy pee pads and poop bags;

Dog food bowls;

Dog treats.

DOG-PROOFING YOUR HOME

Designate and barricade an area in your home where the dog can safely stay unattended;

Clear out small and sharp objects from low tables and floors;

Keep cords, chargers, food and other potentially harmful items out of reach to prevent chewing;

Cover garbage bins to keep out curious noses;

Keep toilet lids closed;

Remove or close off access to all plants that are harmful and toxic to dogs (e.g. bougainvillea);
Close all doors and areas where that are hazardous and off-limits;

Eliminate escape opportunities in your garden fence and/or to the balcony/ terrace.
 RESCUE DOG BEHAVIOR
BASICS

Positive Negative Emotional

Ears up/ floppy

Soft, relaxed eyes

Flat ears

Tail tucked between legs or

(stress/anxiety)
Licking lips
Tail high and aim is also lower down
Yawning
wagging as a response Fear in the eyes
Whimpering
Smile on face Shaking/ shivering
Frenzied barking or howling
Licking and kissing Frozen to the spot
Avoiding eye contact
Trying to jump up at you Trying to find hiding spots
Constant scratching
Playing Backing up against the wall or
Urination
Making eye contact into corners
Pacing
Initiating physical contact Barking and growling
Refusal to take treats or food
(coming closer, asking for belly Snapping/ biting
Rigid, tense body
rubs) Raised hairs on back of neck

*SUCCESS IS DIFFERENT FOR EVERY DOG,

TOUCHING THE DOG DEPENDING ON THEIR PAST EXPERIENCE

Always attempt touch by giving
the dog your closed, turned
fist first to smell you every
single time (protect yourself
from being bitten).
Avoid eye contact at first. Sit at a distance on dog's Speak in a calm, soothing,
level to get more of a sense/read on you. Move slowly slightly higher-pitched
a bit at a time with no eye contact towards it. If at any
voice (low pitches trigger fear
time the dog moves away or changes position and
as primary abusers are men).
posture, then stop and go away.

If signs are good, keep talking to pup Never attempt touch if you don’t have positive Read the dogs body language

and turn hand over to show palm and eye contact. NEVER go OVER the head to stroke; and if it shows negative,

keep still (provides a better smell and always start with under or at eye level. Then, you emotional signs, STOP and try
taste of you, but doesn't invade facial can slowly progress to light strokes from shoulders or again tomorrow. Support the

space) and try to make eye contact. side, and then to heavier hand massages in circular pup and don't make it worse.

Lick = kiss. motions around the shoulders & sides of the body.

RESCUE AGGRESSION & NEGATIVE BEHAVIOR

Street dogs had to fight to stay alive so the main trigger is food:
Feed separately from other pets and/or in cages first;

Then, watch out for resource guarding during feeding - back away and do NOT attempt to move bowls when there is food
inside.

When playing with toys with them, never pull or tug. This is teaching them bad negative behavior that could result in further

resource guarding and aggression.

Dogs are in the process of toilet training and you are required to help them through that.

Establish a set feeding schedule;

Establish a set routine and take them outside at the same time every day to the same spot;

Praise them every time they eliminate outside;

Try to associate a word or phrase like "potty" every time they eliminate so that you can use it in the future to encourage them.

Dogs will want to chew on things to alleviate boredom or anxiety. Provide them with durable, dog-safe chew toys and teach them

bite inhibition.
 THE FIRST FEW DAYS IN
THE LIFE OF A RESCUE
IT TAKES 3 DAYS FOR A DOG TO GET SETTLED INTO ITS
NEW HOME ENVIRONMENT - LET THE DOG TAKE THE LEAD

Enter and introduce the dog to your house slowly. Restrict its access to one area of the home using a

playpen, baby gates, or any other form of barricade to create a safe, secure space. Place inside its

blankets, bed and toys.

Place a water bowl next to the sleeping area.

Leave dog alone to desensitize and settle for 12-24 hours, but interact if dog initiates it. Be calm and

quiet.

Every 2 hours, take the dog on a leash to garden, balcony or terrace only for toileting. Once the dog

urinates outside, soak a pee pad with urine and place that pad indoors in a designated toilet section

within the safe space. Place clean pee pads next to the soaked one, replace accordingly.

Dog cannot be allowed to go to garden, balcony or terrace on its own, even if secure.
Dog cannot go out in public before 2nd vaccination is completed.
Always have the dog's collar on.

Try to leave food for the dog and let it try eating.

If tails wags, then respond with your voice even more.

Try and give food and see the response. If eating, it is slowly relaxing. Feed specific food only

and according to a schedule.

If feeding is unsuccessful, a dog can go up to 3 days no food, water or passing urine or stools in

bad cases.

Do not leave bowls down all day with food - your job is too get them into a home routine and

figure out when they are full.

Your foster will need family time and brief periods of solitary confinement.

Don’t give in and comfort the dog if it whines when left alone. Instead, give it attention for good

behavior, such as chewing on a toy or resting quietly.

In the first weeks, some dogs will be too shy or overwhelmed to play - don't rush them.
Let the dog explore safe areas of the house under supervision.

Slowly start your schedule of feeding, toileting and play/exercise + bonding time.

If dog is happy then sit down or crouch & talk and soothe them - they have got your scent from

the first 10 seconds.

If trusting, dog will already start coming towards you - let them take the lead!

Try and get dog to your outside space (NOT in public) to toilet and walk. First time, always with

care and slowly as not to spook them. Walk always with a loose lead with no tension and let them

lead you around. Do NOT try and walk them the first time out, and soothe and encourage instead.

Some dogs will dart, some hesitate and some walk happily out. Most think they are free until they

feel tension round neck and will then freak out when this happens, don’t let go and do not pull the

lead - have no tension in your arm or body and relax. Usually, within 10 -20 seconds it stops.

Let them lead you and it will usually be stop/start for the first 5 minutes so always better if you

have someone with you to motivate and encourage them from the front. When they stop, you stop.

If refusing to budge, then changing direction also helps + encourage with treats, meat or toys.

First day on a walk of should be 5 minutes just to stretch legs and hopefully go to the toilet BUT if

dog is happy and you can just carry on.

If dog lays down, do not attempt to pick it up. Try waiting a bit and then go crazy exited - dog

should get up. You can also slowly walk around behind them and that should move dog back

inside.

FOLLOW THE RULES FOR FIRST 3 DAYS TILL PUP

FEELS SAFE & DON'T GIVE UP - THEY NEED YOU!
 DOG TRAINING SIMPLIFIED
MOST IMPORTANT RULE - BE PATIENT AND CONSISTENT
The first few days and weeks in your home are special and critical for a pet. Your foster dog will be confused about

where it is and what to expect from you. Setting up some clear structure with your family for your dog will be paramount

in making as smooth a transition as possible.

The most valuable training - humans aren't bad and we will love, care, play with, protect and welcome you to
our home.

Start more play and training gradually by week 2 and onwards.

DOG TRAINING - THE BEGINNINGS Use food/

toys
Potty training Leash manners
Have
Basic obedience consistent,
short sessions
Sit Socialization
Come
Down
Correct negative
Stay
behavior
Leave it
Tricks
Bite inhibition Paw
Speak
Make it fun!
Roll over

Victoria Stilwell/ e-HowPets

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to us ALWAYS.
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