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Key words: alpaca wool, length fibre, linear mass, breaking tenacity, elongation, diameter,
fibre surface, cross sections.
small crimps and a yearly fibre growth population and no control of fibre thick-
of 9 - 12 cm. Suri alpaca wool is more ness.
delicate than that of huacaya wool, has
more luster and a yearly fibre growth of Comparative studies of fibres from al-
10 - 12 cm. Alpacas are kept mainly for paca, lama, vicuna and guanaco were
RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
their wool, which has particularly high presented by Greaves and Rainsferd in
quality and end use properties. Alpaca their paper [9]. The comparison was done
wool is light, cool, and, at the same time, for the years 1970 and 2005. They stated
protects well against cold. that there was a significant increase in fi-
bre thickness in comparison to the results
Alpaca fibre is a natural fine and soft from the year 1970.
product that has more than 17 natural
n Introduction black white and brown colours. Those Alpacas was introduced to Poland seven
Alpaca is a mammal of the order of Arti- who wear Aplaca garments choose them years ago. From year to year their popu-
odactyls - the camel family. Man controls because of their thermal qualities and lation has been growing and thus a new
territories where domesticated camelids, resistant features of the fibre, as well as textile raw material has become available
such as lamas and alpacas live. But so far some other attributes such as their imper- at home - alpaca wool.
they have included primarily the zone of meability and antiinflamability.
At the moment, no rational concept ex-
the Altiplano region of Peru, Bolivia and
The problem is partly known from a few ists of how to use this raw material. The
Chile in South America. The world popu-
publications in world literature, but so Institute of Natural Fibres and Medicinal
lation of Alpacas is estimated at 4 million
heads [1]. In Peru the number of alpacas far there have been no complex studies
of alpaca wool processing – ‘from fibre Table 1. Designation of alpaca wool sam-
has reached 3.3 million, in Bolivia - 420 ples (for the Tables 2, 3, 4); *) - designation
thousand and in Chile there are an esti- to product’. of samples is associated with the marking
mated 45 thousand . The breeding of al- of the animals from which the samples were
pacas started on other continents at the At the world conference in Bradford, taken.
beginning of the 80s. Currently, the larg- Villarroel [6] presented the most com- Code of Length
Item Colour
est number of these animals, apart from prehensive information so far concern- specimen*) lock, mm
South America, is found in Australia ing alpaca wool and its future textile ap- 1 16 S.A. dark beige 120
(over 100 thousand.), USA, Canada, New plications. He indicated many problems 2 322 H.A. dark bronze 85
which also refer to big variations in fibre 3 0907/5361 dark bronze 90
Zealand and some countries of Europe.
4 5049 S.A. white 200
thickness, depending on the fibre loca-
5 318 grey 100
In Europe, the breeding of alpacas is in tion on the animal’s body. Rainsford [7]
6 9081 S.A. light bronze 150
such countries as the United Kingdom emphasises that in Peru garments made 7 85474 dark bronze 115
(20 thousand heads), Switzerland, Ger- from alpaca wool have been traditionally 8 91 H.A. dark bronze 85
many, Austria, France, Spain, Poland and used for a long time. According to Rains- 9 H.A. grey bronze 90
some Scandinavian countries [1]. ford [8], there is growing concern in Peru 10 Pinta S.A. beige / white 92
over the continuous thickening of alpaca 11 52 H.A. black 75
There are two alpaca breeds: the huacaya fibres (over 31 µm) whilst the supply of 12 19 H.A. black 75
and suri [1, 2, 4]. They have a different ap- thinner fibres (20 - 26 µm) is smaller and 13 75 H.A. black 80
pearance and type of fleece. The huacaya smaller. This is happening since Peru 14 18 S.A. light bronze 110
15 606 S.A. white 115
has wool similar to that of sheep, with does not have a national record of alpaca
Plants (INF&MP) is presently trying to n Test materials and methods pling were the mid-dorsal parts of the
solve the problem of scouring alpaca animals.
wool [5]. Knowledge of the fibre struc- Wool fibres from Polish alpacas were the
ture and its physical and mechanical material studied. The studies were made The linear density, density, fibre length,
properties is necessary for the elabora- for 15 fibre samples taken from various strength, elongation at break, diameter
tion of the concept of how to apply al- animals from a herd of 120 alpacas. All as well as the external and internal fibre
paca wool in textile products. samples were collected in May with a structure were investigated. Measure-
one-year shearing. The places of sam- ments of the linear density of fibres in
The problem of breeding alpacas, its
wool and properties, the wool structure
and its processing is quite new in Poland.
On this subject, except for a study on 35
a)
breeding alpacas [1] and general Internet
33
information about alpacas [2 - 4], there y = 1.0332x - 1.3032
are no scientific publications in Poland. 31 R2 = 0.9682
Measurements by LS, µm
29
The development of breeding alpacas af-
fects the profitability of farming as well 27
as the high quality and functional quali-
ties of wool. For comparison, in Poland, 25
washed sheep wool costs 3.5 - 4.7 Euro/kg,
23
while the price of alpaca wool is 35 -
50 Euro/kg. The price of one Polish 21
merino ranges from 50 - 60 Euro, while
the price of one alpacas is around 1400 19
- 1800 Euro. Notwithstanding the high
17
price of alpaca animals and wool, great 17 19 21 23 25 27 29 31 33 35
demand exists in Poland for this new raw
material because of its high quality and Measurements by SEM, µm
2
Measurements
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 1 (90) 9
Table 3. Results of the tests of alpaca fibre density; d* - diameter obtained according to LS All the tests were performed according to
(Table 2). ISO standards.
Item Code of specimen d*, µm Real density Seeming density
according to Table 1 r, g/cm3 r, g/cm3 To asses the internal and external struc-
1 1 (16 S.A.) 20.6 1.301 1.282 ture, microscope tests were performed
2 20.8 1.318 1.286
using a FEI NOVA NANOSEM 230 and
2 (32 H.A.)
JSM-5200 LV scanning microscope.
3 4 (5049 S.A.) 24.3 1.318 1.289
4 26.1 1.312 1.290
7 (85474) The fibre density was tested by the gradi-
5 10 (Pinta S.A.) 29.1 1.295 1.280 ent column method at 25 °C. The gradient
6 12 (19 H.A.) 30.1 1.318 1.298 column was filled with a mixture of two
7 15 (606 S.A.) 35.1 1.300 1.286 liquids: toluene and carbon tetrachloride.
26.6 1.309 1.288
The immersion liquid density range in
Average:
the column was 1.20 - 1.40 g/cm3. Before
measurement, the samples were dried
tex were assessed according to Polish bre diameter was tested with three meth- and de-aerated in a vacuum for 5 hours.
Standard PN-ISO 1973:1997. Special at- ods; a laser method - Laser-Scan (LS), a The samples were then flooded with
tention was given to measuring the fibre micro projection method – using a pro- the immersion liquid with a density of
diameter as that of alpaca wool fibres is a jection microscope- Lanameter (PM), 1.20 g/cm3 and placed into the gradient
very important parameter characterising and a method using an electron scanning column. For determination of the actual
the alpaca breed. Therefore the alpaca fi- microscope (SEM). location of the density, the samples’ po-
Figure 2. Photo fibres surface alpaca wool (Pinta S.A.-beige/white diameter 29.1 µm )
Figure 3. Photo SEM cross sections fibres alpaca wool (Pinta S.A.- beige/white diameter 29.1 µm )
a) b) c) d)
Figure 4. Photos of longitudinal view of alpaca fibres; a) 3 - 0907/5361 dark bronze, d = 24.0 µm, b) 4 - 5049 S.A. white d = 24.3 µm,
c) 10 - Pinta S.A. beige/white, d = 29.1 µm, d) 15 - 606 S.A. white d = 35.4 µm.
10 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 1 (90)
sition and standard floats in the column ameters for alpaca fibres from the above various animals)the alpaca fibres differ
were read after 24 hours. methods is shown in Figure 1. The in- in length, linear density, strength and
terdependence of the results of fibre di- elongation at break. The unit strength
For determination of the apparent densi- values of alpaca wool, expressed as the
ty, the following location of the samples ameters for the laser method (LS) and
scanning method (SEM) is shown in Fig- tenacity, are close to that of sheep’s wool
was read in time. The distribution curve
[10]. The elongations at break of alpaca
of the density of the liquid was plotted as ure 1. The correlation coefficient calcu-
fibres are about 10% higher than those of
a function of the column height, and on lated for these methods is high, amount-
the basis of this relationship the density fibres of sheep’s wool.
ing to 0.988. The absolute differences
of the fibre being tested was established.
between the results of the fibre diameters The higher spreads of the breaking
Six series of tests were performed for
each variant. measured, occurring between the meth- strength and elongation of alpaca wool
ods applied, are shown in Figure 1.b. compared with sheep’s wool are a result
Designations of the samples, including The results of the tests of alpaca fibre of the internal structure of these fibres.
the symbol of the sample, colour and density for seven characteristic samples
length of wool fibres in the lock are pre- selected (according to the designation In alpaca fibres there are channels of dif-
sented in Table 1 (see page 8). ferent shape (variable width and length).
from Table 1) are shown in Table 3.
The results of diameter tests (Table 2)
n Test results also show that there is a great difference
Results of the evaluation of fibre surfac-
in the fibre diameter (20 - 35 µm.) of
Results of the physical and mechanical es, cross-sections and longitudinal views samples from one herd. On the basis of
tests are presented in Table 2 (see page 9). are shown as photos in Figures 2 - 4. the alpaca fibre diameters (Table 2 and
Figure 1.b), it can be seen that the la-
ser method yields diameter results only
a) b)
about 0.4 µm smaller than from the scan-
ning method (SEM).
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 1 (90) 11
The lower real density of real alpaca
wool compared with sheep’s wool con- Technical University of Łódź
firms this.
Faculty of Material Technologies
Knowledge of the real density of the fi-
bres - ρ in g/cm3 and their diameter - d and Textile Design
in µm makes it possible to determine the
fibre linear density Tt in tex:
Tt = π/4 . d2 . ρ . 10-3 =
Department
= 0.7854 .10-3. d2 . ρ
of Technical Mechanics
n Summing up and Computer Engineering
The results of studies of the external and
internal structure of alpaca fibre allow Head of department:
to state that the structure of alpaca fibre
Prof. Krzysztof Dems, Ph.D., D.Sc., Eng.
differs a lot from that of sheep wool fi-
bres: The external surface of alpaca fibres
is more delicate with smaller and less Current research topics:
pronounced scales. Moreover the cross n Modelling and identification of the mechanical properties of textile com-
sections are mostly oval in shape with a posite materials
clearly defined channel of core structure. n Optimisation of the mechanical and thermal properties of fibre reinforced
composites
The real density of the fibres of alpaca n Sensitivity analysis and optimal design of the shape and thermomechani-
wool is lower than that of sheep wool cal properties of structural elements
fibres.
n Identification and computer oriented simulation of defects in structures
The physical and mechanical properties, using thermographic methods and modal analysis
linear density, strength, tenacity, elon-
gation at break, length and diameter of
alpaca fibre are varied in particular sam- Area of research activities:
ples, the reason for which is uncontrolled n Mechanics of textiles, textile structures and composites
herd breeding. n Theory and application of textile and structural mechanics
n Sensitivity analysis and optimal design of structures subjected to thermal
References and mechanical loads
1. Morales Villavicencio A. “Chów alpak”. n Numerical methods in textile and structural mechanics
Multico. Oficyna Wydawnicza, 2010, n Computer-oriented analysis, synthesis and optimisation of materials and
Warszawa.
structures
2. www.alpaka.net.pl: Hodowla alpaki – in-
formacje. n Operation of textile machinery and its reliability
3. www.natural-style.de “Alpaka – Luxus n Application of computer science in textile and mechanical engineering
pur aus der Natur”
4. www.aia.org.pe/about_alpaca.html
5. Czaplicki, Z.; Ruszkowski, K.: The
Technology of Washing Small Batches
of Alpaca Wool withy he Use of Ultra-
Research achievements:
sonic Generators (in Polish), Przegląd n Creation of a scientific school with varied approaches to optimal design,
Włókienniczy WOS, 2010,1,. identification and sensitivity analysis of structural elements, textile prod-
6. Juan Villarroel, Future of the Textile
Uses of Alpaca Fibre, Proceedings ucts, composite structures subjected to thermal and mechanical loads
World Wool Conference – Bradford [UK] n Creation of principles for the modelling of textile products subjected to
2003, 10-11 March, 164-169.
7. Francis, E. B. Rainsford: The Alpaca La- static and dynamic loads
dies of Aregnipa’s colea Valley, Textiles, n Computer oriented analysis and synthesis of textile products, composite
2004, 3.
structures and structural elements subjected to mechanical and thermal
8. Francis, E. B. Rainsford: Concern over
Peru’s Coarsening Alpaca Fibre, Tex- loads
tiles, 2005, 2.
9. Phil Greaves; Francis E.B. Rainsford:
Camelid Fibres – Compared & Con-
trastet, Textiles, 2005, 3/4, 46-48. For more information please contact:
10. Ruszkowski, K.; Czaplicki Z. Proper-
Department of Technical Mechanics and Computer Engineering
ties of Domestic Wool Raw Materials,
Przegląd Włókienniczy, WOS, 2007, 11, Technical Universiy of Lodz
39 – 42. ul. Zeromskiego 116, 90-924 Lodz, Poland
tel.: (48)(42) 631-33-59 e-mail: dems@kmt.p.lodz.pl web site: http://www.k41.p.lodz.pl/
12 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2012, Vol. 20, No. 1 (90)