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ABSTRACT
An objective and reliable evaluation method of fabric pilling using a three-dimensional
scanning system with higher accuracy is presented. The overall fabric surface roughness
together with the pilling characteristics were evaluated to comprehensively understand the
fabric pilling phenomena and exactly grade the degree of pilling. The fractal dimension
calculated by the wavelet-fractal method and the surface average mean curvature were used
as descriptors of fabric surface roughness. Localization and characterization of pills was
achieved by wavelet reconstruction. The number, area, and population density of pills were
extracted as the parameters of pilling characteristics. In order to select features and then
reduce dimensions, a Karhunen–Loève (K–L) transform was employed. Bayes, minimum
distance, k-nearest neighbors, and neural network classifiers were used to classify the fabric
pilling into objective grades. The experimental results demonstrated that the fabric pilling
evaluation system developed in this study represented both the fabric surface properties and
the pilling properties and also showed high accuracy in grading the degree of pilling.
Fabric pilling refers to one of the surface appearance richer and finer surface data. In our earlier study [8],
properties in which bundles or balls of tangled fibers we described a method for the objective evaluation of
remain suspended on the fabric surface. Pilling degrades fabric wrinkle, smoothness appearance, and seam pucker
the fabric appearance and touch, and reduces the value of that was based on the fractal dimension calculated by the
fabric products. Resistance to fabric degradation caused wavelet-fractal method. The proposed method was vali-
by pilling is an important factor that needs to be evaluated. dated using the fractal surfaces produced from the mathe-
To examine pilling, the fabrics are treated to form typical matical functions. We also found that the surface average
pills by tumbling, brushing, or rubbing specimens with mean curvature in several standard roughness parameters
abrasive materials in a machine and then comparing the could be a good descriptor to describe the surface rough-
processed fabrics with visual standards to determine the ness as a supplementary reference. Our initial results for
degree of pilling on a scale ranging from 1 (very severe the objective evaluation of fabric wrinkle, smoothness, and
pilling) to 5 (no pilling) (American Standard for Testing seam pucker in the previous study also offer the possibility
and Materials (ASTM) D3512-82) [3]. However, these to discriminate between grades of pilling.
subjective methods based on visual estimation bring about In contrast to a general fabric surface evaluation, pilling
the inconsistent and inaccurate rating results. During the evaluation is different in that the pilling characteristics
last two decades considerable efforts have been made to such as the number, size and density of pills should be
develop objective evaluation methods for grading of fab- included to accurately grade the degree of pilling. In other
ric pilling, including image analysis techniques [1, 2, 6, 7, words, the extent of overall fabric surface roughness has
10, 13, 14] and laser scanning [11]. to be measured together with the pilling characteristics.
With the advancement of three-dimensional (3-D) sur- The fractal dimension calculated by the wavelet-fractal
face measurement techniques, the precise surface data can method and the surface average mean curvature suggested
be acquired using a 3-D scanning system so that the char- in our earlier study [8] are used to evaluate a general sur-
acteristics of fabric pilling can be fully evaluated from face roughness caused by pills and fuzz. Measurement
of the number, area, and density of pills is followed by
1 To whom correspondence should be addressed: tel.: +82 2 880 7197, localization of pills, which is achieved by finding the ref-
fax: +82 2 885 1748; e-mail: loveincarnate@hotmail.com erence fabric surface in terms of wavelet reconstruction.
Textile Res. J. 75(11), 761–770 (2005) DOI: 10.1177/0040517505059209 © 2005 SAGE Publications www.sagepublications.com
762 Textile Research Journal
Degree of pilling
Area Density
Big Medium Small FD SAMC No. of pills (in pixels) ×10−5
Figure 3. Example to detect pills from the simulated pilling surface by wavelet reconstruction: (a) 3-D graph of simulated severe pilling surface,
(b) range image of (a), (c) reference surface of (a) obtained by wavelet reconstruction, (d) range image of (c), (e) segmented and counted pills.
pixels are considered as noise and removed in a binary and the surface average mean curvature, which describes
image, from which the pilling characteristics such as the the differences in surface roughness.
number, area, and population density of pills can be finally In our earlier study, we proposed the discrete wavelet
determined. transform using 3-D surface data to obtain the fractal
Figure 3 illustrates an example to detect pills from the dimension (3DSWTMhv ) [8]. The fractal dimensions cal-
simulated severe pilling surface by wavelet reconstruction. culated by this method show a linear relationship over
Figure 3b and 3d are range images, in which gray scale is a wide span of theoretical fractal dimensions with little
proportional to elevation. error.
2
N−j
2
N−j
t
dj,n1 ,n2
Pilling Features n1 =1 n2 =1 ∗
djt = = Emin 2−j(α+1) t = h,v,d .
Surface Roughness Properties 2N−j · 2N−j
Due to the action of the pilling motion the fabric sur- Here djh represents the horizontal information, djv
faces not only have clear pills but they also have fuzz and the vertical information, djd the diagonal information of
∗
small pills and it is difficult to decide whether these are a 3-D surface, Emin a constant, and α(0 < α < 1) is
really pills. Hence, the fabric surface roughness needs to the Lipschitz exponent. When djt (t = h,v,d) is plotted
be evaluated to better understand the pilling phenomena against j on a double logarithmic scale, a linear regression
of the fabric. We present two parameters, which are the with a slope −(α + 1) can be obtained using a least-
fractal dimension calculated by the wavelet-fractal method square fit algorithm. Therefore, the fractal dimension of
November 2005 765
1 2 3 4 5
Table III. Classification accuracy of classifiers before and after Table IV. Classification results of test sets.
weighting the transfer matrix.
No weighting Weighting
Before weighting After weighting
Sample BC MDC kNNC NNC BC MDC kNNC NNC
Classifier Train Test Train Test
Te11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
BC 97.5 90 100 90 Te12 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
MDC 97.5 90 100 100 Te21 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
kNNC 97.5 90 100 100 Te22 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
NNC 97.5 90 100 100 Te31 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Te32 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3
Te41 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Te42 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
Te51 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
in our earlier study. Localization and characterization of Te52 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
pills by wavelet reconstruction were validated using the
simulated pilling surfaces with a 2-D Gaussian function
and fractal surface, and were proven to be effective. The
number, area, and population density of pills, which are The experimental results show that it is possible to eval-
sensitive to pilling grading by judges, were extracted as uate the fabric pilling comprehensively using the system
pilling characteristics. The newly developed system suc- developed in this study.
cessfully grades the degree of pilling through the feature
selection and dimensional reduction using a K–L trans- Acknowledgment
form coupled with Bayes, minimum distance, k-nearest This work was supported by the SRC/ERC program of
neighbors, and neural network classifiers. Weighting the MOST/KOSEF (R11-2005-065).
coefficients of the transfer matrix corresponding to impor-
tant features in grading the pilling improved the results.
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