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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 18

The Hair Issue: Political Attitude and Self-Esteem


as Determinants of Hairstyle Choices
Among African American Women

Tajia Joseph
Department of Sociology
California State University, Los Angeles

This paper presents a two-fold study. First, the study


focuses on whether self-esteem influences hairstyles among
African American women. Second, it focuses on whether
hairstyles are an indicator of political beliefs. A survey
questionnaire was distributed to 100 African American
women in order to analyze their attitudes regarding hair in
relation to political beliefs and self-esteem. Using
Pearson’s Correlation Coefficient and OLS Regression, the
findings suggest that those with high self-esteem are more
likely to wear their hair in a natural state. Therefore,
African American women with high self esteem are more
likely to wear their hair in a natural state, while African
American women with low self-esteem are more likely to
process their hair. Meanwhile, political attitudes do not
affect hairstyle preferences. Finally, more educated women
prefer to wear processed hair compared to less educated
women, who prefer to wear their hair natural.

INTRODUCTION still flocking to their hairdressers to keep


up with routine maintenance. Some do it
1
Black hair care has always managed to for the look; some do it for social
fit into the budget and, while some may reasons, and others do it for professional
think it would be the first to go, studies reasons. Right or wrong, hair does
have shown that despite the present matter. Next to skin color, hair is truly
economic state of America and the price the most visible stereotype of being a
spike at most salons Black women are black woman. Physically, socially,
economically, and stylistically black
1 women's hair is, not just hair. It evokes a
Tajia Joseph is a graduate student at the
Department of Sociology. This research paper
serious debate in the Black community.
was originally submitted to SOC 410 Advance Hair can be seen as an indicator of
Statistics, taught by Professor Hyojoung Kim in gender, social class, sexual orientation,
Summer 2009.

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 19

political views, religion, and age. The pride.


focus of this study is to determine if self- In the 1960s, hair was a political
esteem influences hairstyles. The other statement and a symbol of the Black
focus of this study is whether or not power movement. Hair was used as a
those hairstyles are an indicator of resistant strategy against White beauty
political beliefs. standards. Natural hair was considered
Throughout history, emulating radical because it gave off the message
White hairstyles, particularly straight that I do not desire to conform.
hair, signified many things in the Black However, in the 1990safro hairstyles
community. First, straight hair was became a symbol of delinquency for
associated with free-person status during males and lower status for females. It
times of slavery. Light-skinned runaway was no coincidence that last year's
slaves “tried to pass themselves off as infamous New Yorker cover that
free, hoping their European features depicted the Obamas as White House
would be enough to convince bounty terrorists featured Michelle with a huge
hunters that they belonged to that Afro. Barack's turban was a bad joke;
privileged class. “Emulating Whiteness Michelle's big hair was a legitimate
offered a certain amount of protection. threat that could materialize at any
Second, lighter-skinned and straighter- moment. The afro challenges the hege-
haired slaves worked inside the monic White standard of beauty through
plantation houses performing less Black beauty liberation. As Michelle
backbreaking labor than the slaves Obama, a black woman who has become
relegated to the fields. The practice of the first lady, undergoes scrutiny, there
straightening was viewed as a pitiful is no better time than now to examine
attempt to emulate Whites and equated how black women are frequently
hair straightening with self-hatred and prejudged and mischaracterized.
shame” (Bellinger, 2007). One of the variables of
With regard to the issue of hair, examination is self-esteem levels. Social
Garvey proclaimed, “Don’t remove the Comparison theory argues there is a
kinks from your hair! Remove them drive within individuals to look to
from your brain!” Black women choose outside images in order to evaluate their
to wear their hair in a natural state in own opinions and abilities. These images
order to embrace their culture. Black are usually in comparison to other
women are less concerned with weight people. People look to the images
and more concerned with the appearance portrayed by others to be obtainable,
of their hair. Black women’s hair is an realistic, and, subsequently, to make
indicator of self-satisfaction and ethnic comparisons among themselves, others,
pride. Some African American women and the idealized images. The exposure
have considered changing their hair from to Caucasian models in advertisements
its natural state to be an act of self- affects the self-esteem of African
hatred. African American women say American women. “Exposure to
they no longer follow historical norms of idealized advertising images creates self-
wanting to appear White and choose to doubt and dissatisfaction for women of
not change their hair based on racial color. They actively or passively engage

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 20

in social comparison” (Frisby 2004). theory advocates that African Americans


Younger African American distance themselves from the views of
women say they no longer follow his- mainstream society, which in this case is
torical norms of wanting to appear White the White culture.
and choose to not change their hair Social identity theory is
based on racial pride taught to them by concerned both with the psychological
their mothers. During slavery, slave and sociological aspects of group
children were told “to refer to their hair behavior. Social identity theory is
as wool and encouraged not to like their concerned with when and why
own hair” (Bellinger 2007). Slaves were individuals identify with and behave as
regularly told to cover their hair with part of social groups, adopting shared
rags or scarves so they could look attitudes to outsiders. Collective identity
“presentable” for company. The natural refers to the shared definition of a group
look did not sit well with them at all that derives from its members’ common
during that time. African American hair interests, experiences, and solidarities.
was so different that some scholars Some argue that group identity creates a
actually said they were from a different mentality of victimization, cultivates
species because the hair was like wool, exclusion from and hostility toward
not like silk. main-stream society, and encourages
Afrocentrists believe that Afri- separatism and divisiveness. However,
cans exhibit a range of types and there is “little evidence that black
physical characteristics, and such identity consists of oppositional attitudes
elements as wavy hair or aquiline facial towards whites” (Herring, Jankowski
features are part of a continuum of and Brown 1999).
African types that do not depend on Hairstyles serve as important
admixture with Caucasian groups. It is cultural artifacts because they are
concerned with racism, racial sub- simultaneously public (visible to
ordination, and discrimination. Afro- everyone), private (biologically linked to
centric theory examines the effect of the the body), and malleable to suit cultural
White standard of beauty upon African and personal preferences (Weitz, 2001).
American women. It challenges the Hairstyle would be an indicator of group
hegemonic White standard of beauty identity. Wearing natural hair would
through Black beauty liberation. This indicate an identity with black culture,
theory argues that Black is beautiful in while processed hair would indicate an
all the varying ways. It also calls into identity with white culture. Most
question the standards of beauty, which professional black women straighten
change over time depending on the their hair. Ethnic hair can be mis-
ruling class. “Beauty is subject to the interpreted as defiant or militant. Hair is
hegemonic standards of the ruling class” central to the resistance of oppression.
(Patton 2006). There are “unrealistic “The black body has been a site of
expectations of beauty and hairstyle that political struggle since the antebellum
reify the divisions that exist between period and the body of the diasporic
African American and Euro American settler has been and remains a key site of
women” (Patton 2006). The Afrocentric political contestation” (Dash 2006).

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 21

The first hypothesis explores if African American women are surveyed


there is a correlation between self- about the following two types of
esteem and hairstyle. The hypothesis is: hairstyle choices:
the more self-esteem African American Natural hair can be defined as
women have the more natural their not having been unaltered by chemicals
hairstyle will be. Self-esteem can have and, therefore, does not have a straight
an effect on hairstyle choices. Therefore, look but is tightly coiled in appearance
we predict that high self-esteem leads or braided.
African American women to wear their Processed hair is any hair that
hair in its natural state more often. For has been chemically altered or straight-
the second hypothesis, the relationship ened by heating tools.
between political attitudes and hairstyles In order to assess the pre-
are examined. The hypothesis states that dominant hairstyle choices of African
the more natural hairstyle an African American females, the participants were
American wears, the more likely she is asked to self identify their hairstyle
to have a liberal viewpoint in politics. preference. They were asked three
According to this hypothesis, hairstyle is questions about hair maintenance. They
an indicator of political attitude. The were asked “How often do you press/
prediction is that hairstyle does indicate straighten your hair?” “How often they
political beliefs and the more natural the perm (or relax) their hair?” “How often
hairstyle, the more radical the person they wear their hair in its natural state?”
will be. Each of the questions had the following
response categories: always (daily),
DATA AND MEASUREMENT OF frequently (weekly), sometimes (month-
VARIABLES ly), rarely (yearly), and never. For each
question, values from 0 to 4 are used in
For my research, the target population such a way that higher values indicate
was African American women. The more preference for natural hair styles.
study analyzes attitudes based on hair. A The three questions are added together to
survey will be used to collect the data create an index. This index range is
necessary for the study. The study will between 0 and 12, with higher values
take place during the summer in the indicating more preference for natural
month of July 2009. The participants hair styles.
will be African American women
residing in the United States. In order to Independent Variables
get the data required for meaningful
results, participants need not be residents Self Esteem reflects a person’s overall
of California. evaluation or appraisal of his or her own
worth. Since we cannot depend on the
Dependent Variables respondent’s assessment of their self-
esteem, the Rosenberg test of self-
In this study, hairstyle choices depend esteem is adjusted and used to determine
on the political beliefs or self-esteem of levels of esteem. The participants were
African American women. Therefore, asked to rate themselves on several

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 22

aspects concerning self-esteem. The for employment in corporate America,


response categories, taken directly from they may feel more pressure to “look”
the Rosenberg scale, ranged from the part and process their hair. On the
strongly agree to strongly disagree. Each other hand, they are free of constrictions
of the questions had the following and can do as they wish. African
response categories: strongly agree, American women are well aware of the
agree, disagree, and strongly disagree. stigma related to natural hair. It’s about
For each question, values from 0 to 3 are how American society and culture feels
used in such a way that higher values about what black people do with their
indicate higher level of self-esteem. hair. Again, natural hair is still viewed as
Political Attitude, for the purpose radical and not willing to conform. No
of this study, political attitude is employer wants an employee that may
measured by ideas and beliefs that align be radical enough to cause the company
on a continuum from liberal to problems or repel clientele.
conservative. I asked questions on 6
major political issues (Gun control, THE FINDINGS
abortion, gay marriage, death penalty,
war and welfare) to assess political A survey was distributed to female
viewpoint. Using the same scale as African American participants. I asked
above, the response categories ranged each respondent to please answer each of
from strongly agree to strongly disagree. the questions as accurately as possible
Each of the questions had the following and return it to the envelope with other
response categories: strongly agree, completed surveys. To insure that they
agree, disagree, and strongly disagree. were anonymous, I folded all surveys
For each question, values from 0 to 3 are and let the respondent place them into
used in such a way that higher values my envelope.
indicate democratic attitudes and lower
values would indicate conservative Univariate Statistics
attitudes.
In total, there were 100 participants.
Control Variables Table 1 reports the univariate
distribution of the respondents on each
In determining the affect of self-esteem of the variables used in the analysis. Of
and political attitude on hairstyle, other the participants, 55% of the women say
factors may influence findings and affect they wear their hair natural at all times.
the dependent variable. A possible The age of the women in this survey
variable that may affect the findings is concentrated in one category. The age
employment. range of 25-32 comprised of 68% of the
Employment: One’s employment participants. Only 13% of the respond-
status may influence hairstyle choices as ents were unemployed. Eighty-seven
well. If a person already has a steady women were working either part-time or
job, they may be more willing to wear full time jobs. The independent variable
their hair in a natural style or coerced of education was the most evenly
into changing it. If someone is looking distributed. The high school diploma

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 23

category had eight women, and only 2 decreases from natural hairstyles to
women earned higher than a Bachelor’s processed hairstyles. In other words,
degree. Ninety two percent of the more educated people are more likely to
women had at least some college in their process their hair and less likely to wear
lifetime. Personal income had 64% of their hair natural.
women in the category of $35,001- Another statistic was tested for
$50,000 earnings. Only 5% of women the variable employment and hairstyle
said they did not agree with having a preference. The Pearson’s correlation
positive self-attitude. No matter what the coefficient between these two variables
hairstyle preference, most women still is statistically insignificant at the 0.05
held a positive self-attitude. level. This means that employment
status, whether you are employed or not,
Pearson’s Correlation Analysis does not affect hairstyle preference. As it
turns out, marital status, age, and income
Table 2 reports Pearson’s correlation are not significantly correlated.
coefficients among the variables in the Pearson’s correlation coefficient for all
analysis. Pearson’s correlation of the above variables is statistically
coefficient between current hairstyle and insignificant at the 0.05 level. This
self-esteem is negative and statistically means that the variables above have no
significant at least at the 0.05 level. This individual effect on hairstyle preference.
means that as hairstyle decreases from
zero to one, or processed to natural, self-
esteem increases from low to high.
Therefore, self-esteem does affect hair-
style preference in African American
women. Apparently, political attitudes
also influence hairstyle preference
among African American women.
Pearson’s correlation coefficient for
these two variables was positive and
statistically significant at the 0.05 level.
These two variables are positively
correlated. This means that as political
attitudes increase from low scores
(conservative) to high score (liberal),
hairstyle preference increases from
processed to natural.
There was also a negative
correlation found between education and
hairstyle preference. Pearson’s corre-
lation coefficient for these two variables
is negative and statistically significant at
the 0.05 level. This means that as
education increases, hairstyle preference

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 24

Table 1. Survey Questions and Descriptive Statistics of Variables Used in the Analysis

Variable Survey Questions Used Response Categories Frequency Mean S. D.

Age What is your current age? 0 = under 18 0 2.46 .881


1= 8-24 4 4%
2 = 25-32 68 68%
3 = 33-45 6 6%
4 = 46+ 22 22%
Employment What is your current occupation? 0 = unemployed 13 13% 0.87 .338
1 = employed 87 87%

Marital Please choose the one choice for each 0 = single 41 41% 0.83 .853
Status question that applies to you 1= In a relationship 40 40%
2 = Married 14 14%
3 = Divorced 5 5%
4 = Widowed 0
Education Please choose the one choice for each 0 = H.S diploma 8 8% 2.93 1.037
question that applies to you 1 = some college 31 31%
2 = A.A degree 23 23%
3 = B.A 36 36%
4 = M.A 2 2%
5 = PH.D
0
Personal Please choose the one choice for each 0 = 0-$10,000 10 10% 2.74 .774
Income question that applies to you 1 = $10,001-$20,000 16 16%
2 = $20,001-$35,000
3 = $35,001-$50,000
64 64%
4 = $50,001-$75,000 10 10%
5 = over $75,000 0

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Table 2. Pearson’s Correlation Coefficients of Variables Used in the Analysis 1)


2 3 4 5 6 7 8

1. Hairstyle Preference .005 .052 .046 -.212 -.008 .452 .230

2. Age -.102 .374 -.185 -.371 -.262 -.117

3. Employment -.112 .060 .024 .107 .001

4. Marital Status .272 .208 -.026 .004

5. Education .644 .160 .059

6 Income .209 .089

7. Self-Esteem .525

8. Political Attitude

Statistical significance at 0.05 level is indicated by bolded italics

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Multivariate Continuous Regression adjusted R square, which explains the


Analysis variance in the dependent variable. R
square ranges from 0 to 1. The adjusted
The outcomes of bivariate associations R square in my model summary was
may be spurious due to the effects of 0.263. This shows that the model
other variables that may affect both the successfully explains 26% of the total
dependent variable (hairstyle preference) variation present in the dependent
and the key independent variables (self variable. This outcome indicates the
esteem and political attitude) explanatory power of our model in
simultaneously. How can we determine explaining who is more likely to have
the genuine effect of an independent and prefer wearing natural hair.
variable? The unique effect of the key Analysis of Variance (ANOVA)
independent variables on the dependent consists of calculations that provide
variable without regard to other information about levels of variability
independent variables must be assessed. within a regression model and form a
In other words, I must control for the basis for tests of significance. The F test
effects of other variables. In order to is a global hypothesis test, which tests
control the effects of other variables on significance. The F test for the
hairstyle preferences of African independent variables in relation to the
American women, I now analyze the dependent variable is statistically
data using multivariate regression significant; indicating that least one of
techniques. Please note that our hairstyle the independent variables is significantly
preference variable (the dependent affecting the dependent variable of
variable) is continuous, consisting of hairstyle preference.
different categories of preferences and The OLS regression analysis also
choices of hairstyles. Originally, my tests whether a given individual
dependent variable had five outcome independent variable has a significant
categories: always, frequently, some- effect on the dependent variable.
times, rarely, and never. I created a new Statistical insignificance here indicates
index out of three questions. The three that the corresponding independent
questions distinguished hairstyle main- variable has no significant effect in
tenance questions and were combined to determining the outcome of hairstyle
determine preference overall. With the preference. Two variables are statistic-
new index, 12 categories were differ- ally significant at least at the 0.05 level
entiated. A person could have a score (one-tailed). They are self-esteem and
anywhere from 0 -12. Consequently, I education. Other variables are sta-
use OLS regression analysis to separate tistically insignificant even at 0.05 level,
out the effects of self-esteem and thus, indicating that they have no direct
political attitude net of the effects of or independent effect in determining the
other control variables. outcomes of hairstyle preference, net of
The degree to which two or more the effects of other independent
independent variables are related to the variables.
dependent variable is expressed in the

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 27

Table 3. OLS Regression Coefficients of Hairstyle Preference on Independent Variables


Independent Variables Coefficient (s.e.)
Political Attitude -.049 (.427)
Self-Esteem 2.829 (.648)**
Age .227 (.301)
Employment .256 (.639)
Marital Status .296 (.312)
Education -.935 (.301)**
Income .451 (.432)
F-Test 5.412**
Adjusted R-squared .263
* p< 0.05 level of significance; ** p < 0.01 level of significance

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The regression coefficient of significant effect on hairstyle preference,


self-esteem is positive and statistically net of the other variables in the model.
significant at the 0.05 level, net of all the
other variables in the model. The DISCUSSION/CONCLUSION
positive regression coefficient means
that self-esteem has a positive effect on The findings above show that there is a
hairstyle preference. This means that high correlation between self esteem and
those with high self-esteem are more hairstyle. The hypothesis stated that “the
likely to wear their hair in a natural state. more self esteem African American
This supports the hypothesis that high women have the more natural their
self-esteem leads African American hairstyle will be.” Based on my findings,
women to wear their hair in its natural my hypothesis has been accepted.
state more often. According to findings, self-esteem does
The regression coefficient of affect hairstyle preferences. High self-
education is negative and statistically esteem leads African American women
significant at the 0.05 level, net of all to wear their hair in its natural state more
other variables in the model. The test often. These findings may indicate that
reveals that education has a significant there is a positive shift in ethnic pride,
negative effect on hairstyle preference. self-satisfaction, and social identity.
This means that more educated women Natural, unprocessed hair is the essence
prefer to wear processed hair while less of African American pride. Women with
educated women prefer to wear their hair high levels of self-esteem are choosing
natural. to not follow historical norms of wanting
Interestingly, political attitude to appear White, even though they are
did not have a significant effect on constantly exposed to idealized images
hairstyle preference. The regression of beauty through the media. African
coefficient of political attitude is American women with high levels of
statistically insignificant at 0.05 level, self-esteem seem to share the
net of other variables in the model. Afrocentric perspective that Black is
According to Pearson’s correlation beautiful in all its varying ways.
coefficient test, political attitude was However, the fact that African
significant. However, in the regression American women still process their hair
analysis, political attitude was found to suggests that they are still judged by
be insignificant. This means that the their hair composition. Low self esteem
relation reported in Pearson’s test was causes African American women to seek
spurious. It turns out that political dominant images that are valued and
attitudes do not affect hairstyle pre- accepted in American society. Therefore,
ferences. African American women with low self-
For all other independent vari- esteem are still trying to emulate White
ables, the regression coefficient is hairstyles. High self-esteem leads
statistically insignificant at 0.05 level, African American women to embrace
net of the other variables in the model. their natural hair. They are the women
Therefore, the variables age, employ- that are secure enough to decline the
ment, marital status, and income have no hegemonic standard of beauty. These

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 29

women with high self-esteem are of dress and acceptable hairstyles have
comfortable in their own skin. They mirrored white styles. The assumption is
embrace their natural hair and are not that if you're a dark woman with nappy
afraid to have a more afrocentric image. hair, you can't be a woman in the board
The second hypothesis on room, running the company. Educated
political attitudes and hairstyles was not African American women seek approval
supported. The hypothesis stated that the from colleagues and other professionals.
more natural hairstyle an African Entering the professional world means
American woman wears, the more likely shedding anything that may intimidate
she is to have a liberal viewpoint in future employers and/ or clientele from
politics. The rejection of the second hiring them.
hypothesis disrupts the classic image of Hair does not mean the same
the militant or radical, afro-wearing thing to all women as it does to black
women and suggests that African women. The great hair obsession is
American women are aligning them- driven by the painful need of many
selves with mainstream societal con- African-Americans to conform to the
cerns. Hairstyle is a personal choice, not dominant values of American society.
a political indicator. It also challenges For black women, hair is a physical
the notion of “the more natural, the more indicator of the ways in which they are
dangerous,” an image of African different. Part of female beauty has
American women that has been popular always included long flowing locks, and
since the Black Panther movement. for black women who have gravity-
Today, African American women can defying hair, that refuses to match the
embrace their natural hair without being standard appearance; this can be a
directly tied into radical movements and problem. In a culture that teaches that
thought. The natural hair preference has anything black or associated with
more to do with taking on the African blackness is negative. Publicly wearing
American culture and accepting self than your hair natural for African-American
with rejecting mainstream society. women is to embrace blackness as a
Today, these two things are not one in positive. African American women must
the same. be secure within themselves in order to
There were also interesting accept their natural hair. Exposure to
findings on the variable education. I images of acceptable beauty can
found that more educated people are negatively affect Black women’s self-
more likely to process their hair and less confidence, which causes them to
likely to wear their hair natural. As indulge in image altering products and
African American women enter White behaviors. This is why women with high
dominated markets they may feel more self-esteem are more likely to wear their
pressure to conform to institutional hair in its natural state and women with
norms. Wearing an Afro or braids might low self-esteem are more likely to
hurt more than help their prospects in process their hair. Wearing your hair
corporate America. White executives are natural is a way for Black women to
the majority population throughout show love for themselves and their
corporate America. Therefore, standards ethnicity.

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THE HAIR ISSUE by Tajia Joseph 30

There are some limitations to Journal of Black Studies 34: 3 23-


consider in this study. Most women were 347.
chosen from the Los Angeles area. Self Herring, Mary, Thomas B. Jankowski
esteem issues may be more prevalent in and Ronald E. Brown “Pro-Black
the Los Angeles area where Hollywood Doesn't Mean Anti-White: The
aspirations and celebrity comparison are Structure of African-American
high. Another limitation could be the Group Identity” The Journal of
Hawthorn effect. The mere fact that I Politics 61: 363-386.
was present when submitting the surveys Patton, Tracey Owens. 2006. “Hey Girl,
may have altered participant responses. Am I More than My Hair?: African
The way I presented the survey, my American Women and Their
demeanor, or the way the questions were Struggles with Beauty, Body Image,
structured may have affected the and Hair.” NWSA Journal 18:24-51.
findings. Another factor to consider is Weitz, Rose. 2001. “Women and their
the social desirability involved. hair: seeking power through
Although the survey was anonymous, resistance and accommodation.”
respondents may have answered certain Gender & Society 15:667-86.
questions in a way that presented them
in good light.
Future research may need to
administer the survey in different states
to compare results. Also, future research
might examine employment types. To
distinguish between full time and part
time occupations. Also, to compare
employment types and positions held by
African American women. This may
reveal interesting patterns among
working African American women.

REFERENCES

Bellinger, Whitney. 2007. “Why


African American Women Try To
Obtain Good Hair.”
Sociological Viewpoint. 23: 60-72.
Dash, Paul. 2006. “Black hair Culture,
politics, and change.” International
Journal of Inclusive Education 10:
27-37.
Frisby, Cynthia M. 2004. “Does Race
Matter?: Effects of Idealized Images
on African American Women's
Perceptions of Body Esteem.”

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