Professional Documents
Culture Documents
by diycreators
https://youtu.be/jKUsfOAakEs
With the back clamped to the legs, mark the location for the screws.
Countersink the holes deep enough to plug after the screw has been installed.
Plug the hole using a dowel rod that’s appropriate to t the holes drilled.
Use a ush-cut saw to cut the dowel o .
Adding the bit holder is optional, but I felt it’s pretty convenient for your most used router bits.
Step 5: Transfer the Holes From Your Router Plate to the Router Tabletop
Remove the base plate from the router, then use it to mark the hole for the tabletop’s router base.
You can use a Forstner bit or a paddle bit to drill out the center hole.
Mark the mounting holes for the router base, then countersink the holes.
I did this in two stages. I drew the larger hole rst, so the head of the screw sits below the surface of the
table. Then I drilled a smaller hole. Chances are your existing screw in your router may be too short to go
through the plywood and into the router base. So you will more than likely need to replace these screws.
This benchtop router table will have a fence to go along with it. I gured you could go about this one of two ways.
Option 1 build a fence and clamp it to the top of the router table.
Option 2 route in a slot, use a screwing a nut and keep the table and the fence as a self-contained setup.
To do this, you need to route in two places, one on each end towards the back of the router table. To
route the slots, it depends on the screw you choose to use. I used a 1/4 -20 (2) inch screw in this case
paired with wing nuts. On the rst pass, I used a 1/4 router bit of or one that’s the size of the screw. This
went all the way through. Then I made a second pass making a larger slot for the head of the screw. Once
routing is done, the screw should sit lower than the surface of the plywood. Keep in mind these holes are
routed from the bottom of the router tabletop. These screws need to face up.
Cut two pieces of wood the length of the tabletop—one for the back of the fence. The taller one for the
front of the fence. I cut o the corners on the face of the fence for aesthetics and glued the parts together,
as shown above.
Glue a couple of plywood pieces together and drill a hole in it to t the vacuum attachment.
Glue to the back of the router fence.
Under the face of their art o ense, route a chamber to avoid a collection of dust between defense and a
tabletop.
Finally, set the entire router table down and apply whatever nish you like. I kept it simple and used
nishing wax on the top and the fence.
This router table is great because it's light enough to clamp to your workbench either on the top, or to the side, and you
can bring it just about anywhere!
https://youtu.be/jKUsfOAakEs