Outerwear.

Overview and Marketing Guide on Switzerland and the Major Markets in the European Union.
sippo.ch
SIPPO Swiss Import Promotion Programme.
SIPPO is a mandate from the State Secretariat for Economic
Affairs of Switzerland (SECO), carried out by Osec.
The programme supports small and medium-sized enterprises
(SMEs) from emerging markets and markets in transition to access
the Swiss and European markets.

In addition to this, SIPPO helps Swiss and European importers

to find suitable partners in emerging countries and countries in
transition.

The programme has five main goals:

• To inform the Swiss and European import economy about new

market sources
• To strengthen trade institutions and business sector
associations in the trade promotion process
• To increase the competitiveness of SMEs in selected partner
countries
• To develop the manufacturing and exporting skills of SMEs in
selected partner countries
• To establish qualified trade contacts between SMEs from
emerging markets and markets in transition and the Swiss and
European import economy

For further information please contact:

Osec
Swiss Import Promotion Programme
Stampfenbachstrasse 85
P.O. Box 2407
CH-8021 Zürich
Phone +41 44 365 51 51
Fax +41 44 365 52 02
www.sippo.ch
sippo@osec.ch

2 l Outerwear 2010
The GHERZI Group (Founded in 1929).
Gherzi is a leading industrial consulting company offering
­integrated, independent services in management, financial,
­manufacturing, supply chain management, logistics and
­engineering consultancy with more than 400 professionals.
GHERZI has its head office in Zürich Switzerland, disposes on
own offices in Germany, Italy, Turkey, Egypt and India and has
­developed an international presence with partner offices in
France, UK, Mexico, Brazil, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Morocco,
­Nigeria, ­Pakistan, Vietnam and China.
GHERZI has a reputation for project evaluation, planning and
implementation with strengths in:
1. Integrated Services.
Provide a complete, integrated package from production to
distribution, including marketing and feasibility studies with all cost
and financial aspects.
Our solutions are designed to meet clients’ specific needs such as
2. International Exposure and
­Project Experience.
We have undertaken more than 7’500 assignments worldwide
in more than 70 countries. Our Clients include private & listed
companies, international organizations, government agencies and
multinational banks. We have accumulated comprehensive project
experience in the fields of textiles, garments, industrial-, infra-
structure- and hospitality-projects, supply chain management and
distribution.
3. Independent.
GHERZI is an independent, private company offering neutral and
unprejudiced consulting services without links to hard- or soft-
ware suppliers. We act in the interest of our clients and meet the
professional standards of the Swiss Association of Management
Consultants (ASCO) and the Swiss Association of Engineers and
Architects (SIA).

Operations improvements in terms of

• Productivity & efficiency levels
• Cost reduction
• Production planning & quality assurance
• Organizing & working methods
• Turn around of companies

Techno - economic evaluations

• Of investment projects and of existing business operations
• Profitability, ROI & IRR
• Financial projections & sensitivity analyses

Project design
• Master plans
• Implementation
• Re – engineering of existing businesses

Mergers and Acquisitions

Market analyses, competition scenarios and product feasibil-
ity studies
Company Strategies
Production Planning Systems & EDP
Supply Chain Management

Outerwear 2010 l 3
Table of content.
1 Introduction. 3.4.2 Leading retailers......................................................... 43
1.1 Background and methodology of the market survey.... 7 3.4.3 Distribution channels.................................................. 44
1.2 Product groups analysed.............................................. 7 3.5 German fashion trade fairs......................................... 46
1.3 Market survey of the 12-EU new member countries..... 8 3.6 List of major buyers in Germany................................. 47
1.4 Clothing consumption................................................... 9
1.5 Marketing and distribution........................................... 11 4 Italy.
4.1 General economic situation........................................ 53
2 France. 4.2 The market for outerwear........................................... 53
2.1 General economic situation........................................ 12 4.2.1 Market size................................................................. 53
2.2 The market for outerwear........................................... 12 4.2.2 Market characteristics................................................. 53
2.2.1 Market size................................................................. 12 4.2.3 Demographic characteristics...................................... 53
2.2.2 Market characteristics................................................. 12 4.2.4 Retail sales by product category................................ 54
2.2.3 Demographic characteristics...................................... 13 4.2.5 Consumer behaviour.................................................. 55
2.2.4 Retail sales by product category................................ 14 4.2.6 Price developments of clothing................................... 57
2.2.5 Consumer behaviour.................................................. 15 4.3 Imports........................................................................ 57
2.2.6 Price development of clothing..................................... 15 4.3.1 Total imports............................................................... 57
2.3 Imports........................................................................ 16 4.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)............................... 60
2.3.1 Total imports............................................................... 16 4.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear................................... 61
2.3.2 Outward processing trade (OPT)................................ 19 4.4 Trade structure............................................................ 62
2.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear................................... 19 4.4.1 Developments in retail trade....................................... 62
2.4 Trade structure............................................................ 21 4.4.2 Leading retailers......................................................... 63
2.4.1 Developments in the retail trade................................. 21 4.4.3 Distribution channels.................................................. 64
2.4.2 Leading retailers......................................................... 21 4.5 Italian fashion trade fairs............................................. 66
2.4.3 Distribution channels.................................................. 23 4.6 List of major buyers in Italy......................................... 67
2.5 French fashion trade fairs........................................... 25
2.6 List of major buyers of women’s, 5 Spain.
men’s and children's wear in France........................... 26 5.1 General economic situation........................................ 71
5.2 The market for outerwear........................................... 71
3 Germany. 5.2.1 Market size................................................................. 71
3.1 General economic situation........................................ 31 5.2.2 Market characteristics................................................. 72
3.2 The market for outerwear........................................... 31 5.2.3 Demographic characteristics...................................... 72
3.2.1 Market size................................................................. 31 5.2.4 Retail sales by product category and gender............. 73
3.2.2 Market characteristics................................................. 31 5.2.5 Consumer behaviour.................................................. 74
3.2.3 Demographic characteristics...................................... 32 5.2.6 Price development of clothing..................................... 74
3.2.4 Retail sales by product category................................ 33 5.3 Imports........................................................................ 75
3.2.5 Consumer behaviour.................................................. 33 5.3.1 Total imports............................................................... 75
3.2.6 Price developments of clothing................................... 35 5.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)............................... 78
3.3 Imports........................................................................ 35 5.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear................................... 79
3.3.1 Total imports............................................................... 35 5.4 Trade structure............................................................ 80
3.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)............................... 38 5.4.1 Developments in the retail trade................................. 80
3.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear................................... 38 5.4.2 Leading retailers......................................................... 81
3.4 Trade structure............................................................ 40 5.4.3 Distribution channels.................................................. 83
3.4.1 Developments in the retail trade................................. 40 5.5 Spanish fashion trade fairs......................................... 85
5.6 List of major buyers in Spain...................................... 86

4 l Outerwear 2010
6 Switzerland. 8 Doing business in Switzerland
6.1 General economic situation........................................ 89 and the EU.
6.2 The market for outerwear........................................... 89 8.1 Market access.......................................................... 126
6.2.1 Market size................................................................. 89 8.1.1 Quality and standards in Switzerland
6.2.2 Market characteristics................................................. 90 and the EU................................................................ 126
6.2.3 Demographic characteristics...................................... 90 8.1.2 Packaging, size marking and labelling...................... 126
6.2.4 Retail sales by categories........................................... 91 8.1.3 Trade related environmental and social issues......... 135
6.2.5 Consumer behaviour.................................................. 93 8.1.4 Present trade regulations......................................... 139
6.2.6 Price development of clothing..................................... 94 8.1.5 Implications after the elimination
6.3 Imports........................................................................ 95 of the textile quotas................................................... 142
6.3.1 Total imports............................................................... 95
6.3.2 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)............................... 95 9 Appendix.
6.3.3 Largest suppliers........................................................ 95 9.1 Associations of trade agents,
6.4 Trade structure............................................................ 96 wholesalers organisations and retail organisations
6.4.1 Developments in the retail trade................................. 96 in the countries analysed.......................................... 143
6.4.2 Leading retailers......................................................... 97 9.1.1 Europe...................................................................... 143
6.4.3 Distribution channels.................................................. 98 9.1.2 France....................................................................... 143
6.5 Swiss fashion trade fairs........................................... 100 9.1.3 Germany................................................................... 143
6.6 List of major buyers in Switzerland........................... 101 9.1.4 Italy........................................................................... 144
9.1.5 Spain........................................................................ 144
7 United Kingdom. 9.1.6 Switzerland............................................................... 145
7.1 General economic situation...................................... 107 9.1.7 United Kingdom........................................................ 145
7.2 The market for outerwear......................................... 107 9.2 Industry federations in Switzerland
7.2.1 Market size............................................................... 107 and EU-countries...................................................... 146
7.2.2 Market characteristics............................................... 107 9.2.1 France....................................................................... 146
7.2.3 Demographic characteristics.................................... 108 9.2.2 Germany................................................................... 146
7.2.4 Retail sales by product category.............................. 108 9.2.3 Italy........................................................................... 146
7.2.5 Consumer behaviour................................................ 109 9.2.4 Spain........................................................................ 146
7.2.6 Price development of clothing................................... 111 9.2.5 Switzerland............................................................... 146
7.3 Imports...................................................................... 214 9.2.6 United Kingdom........................................................ 147
7.3.1 Outward Processing Trade (OPT)............................. 214 9.3 Major European trade fairs....................................... 148
7.3.2 Largest suppliers of outerwear................................. 214 9.3.1 France....................................................................... 148
7.4 Trade structure.......................................................... 116 9.3.2 Germany................................................................... 148
7.4.1 Developments in the retail trade............................... 116 9.3.3 Italy........................................................................... 149
7.4.2 Leading retailers....................................................... 117 9.3.4 Spain........................................................................ 149
7.4.3 Distribution channels................................................ 118 9.3.5 United Kingdom........................................................ 149
7.5 UK fashion trade fairs............................................... 121 9.4 European trade magazines...................................... 150
7.6 List of major buyers in UK......................................... 122 9.4.1 France....................................................................... 150
9.4.2 Germany................................................................... 150
9.4.3 Italy........................................................................... 151
9.4.4 Spain........................................................................ 152
9.4.5 Switzerland............................................................... 152
9.4.6 United Kingdom........................................................ 153

Outerwear 2010 l 5
9.5 Trade promotion organisations in Europe................. 155
9.6 Important addresses for environmental
and social issues...................................................... 155
9.6.1 Contact points for the Oeko-ex 100 hallmark............ 156
9.7 Sources of information.............................................. 156
9.7.1 Europe...................................................................... 156
9.7.2 France....................................................................... 156
9.7.3 Germany................................................................... 156
9.7.4 Italy........................................................................... 157
9.7.5 Spain........................................................................ 157
9.7.6 Switzerland............................................................... 157
9.7.7 United Kingdom........................................................ 158

6 l Outerwear 2010
1. Introduction.
1.1 Background and methodology 1.2 Product groups analysed.
of the market survey. This market survey covers knitted and woven outerwear and
This survey is designed for clothing manufacturers from foreign
countries wishing to access the European market. The main
objective of this compendium about Switzerland and the five major
EU clothing markets is to provide first hand market information
about the respective target markets for the exporter from abroad.
Secondly, a comprehensive list of addresses helps to gain more
detailed information about the target market and to establish first
contacts.
sportswear for men, women and children. It must be considered
that in the official statistics no difference is made between adults
and children, or in end use, such as conventional, casual or leisure
clothing. In the analysis of the clothing imports, the differentiation
between genders has been made as far as possible.
Underwear, nightwear, hosiery, swimwear, work wear as well as
clothing accessories and home textiles have not been covered.

The handbook includes facts and key data about consumption,
imports, trade structure, role of trade fairs and price developments
in the target markets. The study is completed by a detailed list
of useful addresses at European level about trade promotion
­organisations, trade press, clothing fairs, industry federations,
centres for ecological issues etc. as well as a detailed list of
­potential distribution partners for each of the six countries
analysed. Furthermore, statistical market information about trade
structure as well as prices and margins are provided.
Within the EU statistical system products are specified by the
Harmonized Commodity Description and Coding System (HS).
These numbers clearly identify a specific product. The product
categories covered by this study are listed in the following table.
Table 1: List of used HS codes
HS Code Category description
61 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories
- knitted or crocheted

The countries selected for the survey are Switzerland, Germany, 61.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted
France, Italy, Great Britain and Spain. The information collected 61.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc
for this study is the latest available and should be used by the - knitted or crocheted
exporter as a basis for further individual market research to fully
61.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc
design the individual market entry strategy and to establish first
- knitted or crocheted
contacts.
61.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc
The main sources of information for this study were evaluation - knitted or crocheted
of press material, research on internet, market reports, Eurostat, 61.05 Men’s or boys’ shirts - knitted or crocheted
information from other trade promotion organisations, Chambers
61.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - knitted or crocheted
of Commerce, importers and / or textile associations, a.o.m. The
sources are mentioned in the respective chapters. All contact 61.09 T-shirts, singlets, tank tops etc - knitted or crocheted
addresses listed in the Appendices have been checked and 61.10 Sweaters, pullovers, vests etc - knitted or crocheted
updated, additional information about the clothing retailers and
61.11 Babies’ garments & accessories
other potential partners with products, number of outlets, etc. is
given for a more specific use of the contacts. - knitted or crocheted
61.12 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear
- knitted or crocheted
61.13 Garments, knitted etc, coated etc rubber, plastic etc
61.14 Other garments - knitted or crocheted
61.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts, knitted or crocheted

Outerwear 2010 l 7
 HS Code Category description HS Code Category description

61.17 Other made-up clothing accessories, 62.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - not knitted or crocheted
knitted or crocheted 62.09 Babies’ garments & accessories
62 - not knitted or crocheted
Articles of apparel & clothing accessories - not
knitted or crocheted 62.10 Garments, of felt etc, or fabric impregnated etc

61 62.11 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear

Articles of apparel & clothing accessories
- not knitted or crocheted
- knitted or crocheted
61.01 62.14 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,
Men’s or boys’ overcoats etc - knitted or crocheted
veils and the like
61.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc - knitted or croche- 62.15 Ties, bow ties and cravats
ted
62.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts
61.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc 62.17 Other made-up clothing accessories and parts of
- knitted or crocheted garments
61.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc
Source: Foreign Trade online
- knitted or crocheted
61.05 Men’s or boys’ shirts - knitted or crocheted A more detailed description of the product groups analysed can
61.06 Women’s or girls’ blouses - knitted or crocheted be taken from the import statistics in all countries analysed.
Switzerland has a national coding system for the registration of
61.09 T-shirts, singlets, tank tops etc - knitted or crocheted imports and exports, which nevertheless is based on the HS code
61.10 Sweaters, pullovers, vests etc - knitted or crocheted system of the European Union. Thus, the HS codes referred to in
this study are also applicable for the Swiss market.
61.11 Babies’ garments & accessories - knitted or croche-
ted
1.3  Market survey of the 12-EU new member countries
61.12 Track suits, ski-suits & swimwear The European Union (EU), which had consisted of 15 member
- knitted or crocheted states since 1st of January 1995, was enlarged by ten new joining
61.13 Garments, knitted etc, coated etc rubber, plastic etc countries in 2004 (Czech Republic, Cyprus, Estonia, Hungry, ­Latvia,
61.14 Lithuania, Malta, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia) and two further new
Other garments - knitted or crocheted
joining countries in 2007 (Bulgaria, Romania). ­Negotiations are in
61.16 Gloves, mittens and mitts, knitted or crocheted progress with a number of other candidate member states such as
61.17 Other made-up clothing accessories, Croatia, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and Turkey.
knitted or crocheted
62 Articles of apparel & clothing accessories - not
knitted or crocheted
62.01 Men’s or boys’ overcoats, cloaks etc
- not knitted or crocheted
62.02 Women’s or girls’ overcoats etc - not knitted or
crocheted
62.03 Men’s or boys’ suits, ensembles etc
- not knitted or crocheted
62.04 Women’s or girls’ suits, ensembles etc
- not knitted or crocheted

8 l Outerwear 2010
Table 2: Population and GDP of EU-12 countries (data for 2008)

Population GDP per capita 2008 ‘000

Countries Age 0-14 % Age 15-64 % GDP € billion
million Euro

New (12) EU countries 104.2 15 70.5 977.7 9.38

Cyprus 1.1 17.4 72.8 14.5 13.63
Czech Republic 10.2 13.8 71.2 147.9 14.48
Estonia 1.3 14.9 67.5 15.8 12.07
Hungary 9.9 15.2 69.3 105.7 10.64
Latvia 2.2 13.4 69.7 23.1 10.28
Lithuania 3.6 14.5 69.5 32.4 9.07
Malta 0.4 16.4 69.7 5.1 12.62
Poland 38.1 15.2 71.4 360.1 9.35
Slovakia 5.5 16.1 71.7 64.9 11.90
Slovenia 2.0 13.6 70.1 37.3 18.59
Bulgaria 7.3 13.8 68.6 34.1 4.70
Romania 22.2 15.6 69.7 136.7 6.15

Source: US Census Bureau, Worldbank, Oanda

1.4  Clothing consumption
The EU market for outerwear amounted to € 260 billion in 2007.
Consumption of outerwear grew 8.1% during the whole period
2003-2007, of which 2.6% in 2006-2007.
Germany is still the most important country in clothing consumpti-
on in the EU, but the difference between Germany and the United
Kingdom (UK) has become smaller again. Five countries (Germa-
ny, UK, Italy, France and Spain) account for 75% of EU outerwear
consumption.
Consumers in the UK and Austria are the largest spenders on
outerwear in the EU, while per capita consumption in the review
period in the new EU member states was far below the EU ave-
rage of € 528. Experts forecast that clothing expenditure in several
of the new EU member states will continue to see robust growth in
the period to 2010, while expectations in the major EU countries
are moderately optimistic. The number of garments purchased
per head of the population will continue to rise, but prices will not
follow this growth rate. The populations are becoming more multi-
ethnic and the average age is increasing. This will lead to new
demands and consumer behaviour.

Outerwear 2010 l 9
Table 3: Outerwear consumption in the EU countries (2003-2009, € million)

2003 2004 2007 2009 forecast Per capita 2007 - in € CAGR (03-09)
Germany 50’548 49’915 50’863 51’100 618 0.18%
UK 40’804 43’845 46’152 47’000 760 2.38%
Italy 38’724 39’320 41’115 43’000 698 1.76%
France 33’351 34’420 35’179 36’500 576 1.52%
Spain 18’190 19’268 20’544 20’900 462 2.34%
Netherlands 9’075 9’023 9’456 9’800 578 1.29%
Belgium 6’712 6’972 7’219 7’450 683 1.75%
Austria 5’846 5’918 6’132 6’240 737 1.09%
Sweden 5’204 5’602 6’068 6’480 666 3.72%
Greece 5’198 5’692 5’891 6’170 527 2.90%
Poland 5’368 5’217 5’038 5’150 132 -0.69%
Portugal 4’136 4’400 4’604 4’900 434 2.87%
Denmark 3’039 3’408 3’694 3’950 678 4.47%
Romania 2’572 2’922 3’210 3’500 149 5.27%
Finland 2’382 2’668 2’992 3’140 567 4.71%
Ireland 2’488 2’579 2’732 2’700 636 1.37%
Czech Rep. 1’770 1’952 2’237 2’530 217 6.13%
Hungary 1’488 1’629 1’738 1’840 173 3.60%
Bulgaria 809 963 1’088 1’270 143 7.81%
Slovakia 617 689 809 880 150 6.10%
Slovenia 601 639 744 820 370 5.31%
Lithuania 370 511 687 770 204 12.99%
Latvia 233 324 515 580 226 16.42%
Estonia 231 284 387 480 289 12.96%
Luxembourg 320 329 353 370 728 2.45%
Cyprus 301 331 344 360 402 3.03%
Malta 149 156 165 170 406 2.22%
EU 240’526 248’976 259’956 268’050 528 1.82%
Source: Euromonitor, Retail Intelligence and several national statistics, CBI

10 l Outerwear 2010
1.5  Marketing and distribution
Developments in the retail sector, like a growing concentration at
retail level, expanding by internationalisation and growing com-
petition, lead to an increased demand for fashionable products
against low prices.

• The EU market has witnessed the relentless growth of clothing

multiple chains and franchised outlets, leading to the decline
of the formerly strong independents’ sector. This trend will be
continued in the coming years.

• The hypermarket format, with its strong non-food component

and international character, plays an increasingly important
role in outerwear sales in Western as well as in Eastern EU ­
countries.

• The fast-changing demand in the clothing market is a

significant factor. Because of the higher dynamics of the
clothing markets in terms of more rapidly changing consumer
preferences and more seasons per year, there is a general
tendency in the clothing branch to demand shorter delivery
times and smaller volumes of series and orders.

• The role of importing wholesalers and importers remains

relatively important but will slightly decline, while the role
of clothing multiples and, to a lesser degree, buying groups or
franchise formula will increase in the coming years.
Parallel to the trend for suppliers to make their clothing abroad
is a trend for retailers or wholesalers to bypass the local ­
industry totally, by means of direct imports.

Outerwear 2010 l 11
2. France.
2.1 General economic situation.
The financial crisis did not spare the French economy, which faced
a deep recession in 2009, even if the situation was less severe
than elsewhere. After a clear drop in the fourth quarter of 2008,
economic activity slightly grew in 2009. Both the timing and the
strength of recovery remain uncertain, primarily because of the
risks surrounding the balance sheets of financial institutions. While
French banks have been weakened by the crisis, they are not as
shaky as their counterparts in many other countries. Moreover,
the risk that the real estate market correction now under way will
accentuate the decline in economic activity is attenuated to some
extent by the low rate of household indebtedness and the weak-
ness of the wealth effect on consumption. The crisis will leave
public finances in poor shape, and once the recovery begins, a
priority will be to phase out the general government budget deficit.
Given the already very heavy burden of taxes and compulsory
contributions, public finance consolidation will require strict control
over expenditures.
According to INSEE, the French National Institute of Statistics
and Economic Studies, the French Gross National Product (GNP)
decreased in 2009 by -1.3%, in 2008 and 2007 in increased by
2.1%. This was slightly over the average growth rate of the Euro-
pean Union. With 2.8% in 2009, the consumer price inflation rate
was under the average rate of the European Union (3.5%). The
unemployment rate declined from 10.1% in 2005 to 7.4% in 2009.
This number is said to grow over 10% in 2010 due to the financial
crisis.
12 l Outerwear 2010
2.2 The market for outerwear.
2.2.1  Market size
In 2009, the market size of outerwear in France amounted to €
24.1 billion, which is 62% of the total clothing market. The French
clothing market is forecast to grow steadily between 2010 and
2013 to reach a value of € 41.4 billion, of which up to € 26 billion
will be outerwear. France, which accounts for 13% of the popu-
lation of the 27-member EU, is the fourth largest clothing market
­behind Germany, Italy and the United Kingdom. Apparel imports, at
€ 14.5 billion, are slightly higher than local production at €14 ­billion.
The imports of outerwear increased by 25% in terms of value from
2004 to 2009. In the same period local production ­decreased by
-44%, of which goods amounting to € 5.3 billion were exported.
Table 4: Size of the French outerwear market, 2009
Value [€ bn]
Import 14.5
Local production 4.3
Export 5.3
Total market size 24.1
Source: Eurostat 2009
2.2.2  Market characteristics
French clothing, French design and French labels have a long tradi-
tion and a good reputation. Clothing labels originating from France
are internationally considered to be fashionable and of good quality.
The internationalised French expression ‘haute couture’ signals the
worldwide importance of French fashion and French clothing brands.
Fashion is often associated with French fashion design.
Compared to other EU countries, France is said to be dominated by
price-conscious consumers. The reasons for this can be found in an
unemployment rate of around 7.5% and a relatively low economic
growth rate. On the other hand, the French are said to be very
fashion-conscious too. However, spontaneous purchases are com-
paratively rare because of price sensitivity.
There is a high share of independent retailers in France that are run
as smaller boutiques all over the country.
However, the other extreme is also seen in the retail market: the so
called ‘centrales d’achat’, huge supermarkets (Carrefour, E. Leclerc,
Intermarché etc.) and clothing chains like Promod, Pimkie, Kookai
etc., have strengthened their share in the French clothing market. In
this scenario it is obvious that the French clothing retail system is very
fragmented. France has the largest network of outlets and franchise
systems operated by clothing manufacturers within Europe. Both
systems, franchising and own outlets, merge with each other and
cooperate very closely.
France’s population has increased at a very slow rate in recent
­years. This has been a result of a low birth rate narrowly outstrip-
ping the declining death rate. Rates of immigration have also
decreased in recent years, further slowing population growth.
The 15-24 age segment of the female population tends to be
made up of fashionable consumers, with a tendency to spend a lot
of money on their clothing and personal adornment. These consu-
mers are also likely to look for new styles and designs.

2.2.3  Demographic characteristics With life expectancy among the French population increasing
The size and age structure of the population is one of the basic significantly over the past ten years, in addition to the effects of the
determinants of which products will be bought and how much will ‘baby boomer’ generation, the number of over-50s in the population
be spent on clothing. has increased rapidly.

Figure 1: Age structure of the French population by gender, 2008

10 0 +
95-99
male 90-94 female
85-90
80-85
7 5 -7 9
7 0 -74
65-69
60-64
55-59
50-54
45-49
40-44
35-39
30-34
25-29
2 0 - 24
15 -19
10 -14
5-9
0-4

2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5

Population in millions

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base

Outerwear 2010 l 13
The following figure shows a breakdown of outerwear expenditure Table 6: Sales of women's wear by product categories, 2007 – 2008
by demographic segment in 2009.
Sales in mn Euro 2007 2008 +/- from
per article category previous year
Figure 2: Breakdown of outerwear expenditure by demographic
Waterproof coats 758 741 -2%
segment in 2009
Anoraks, parkas, jackets 445 348 -22%
Women
Jackets & blazers 155 145 -6%
Men
4%
Children (aged 8-14) Coats etc. 268 293 9%
Babies (aged 0-7) 14%
Gilets without sleeves 55 77 40%
Suits, outfits 915 615 -33%
53% Dresses 665 728 9%
Skirts 741 568 -23%

29%
Trousers 1’546 1’532 -1%
Trousers (sports) 46 38
Jeans 1’007 1’084 8%
Overalls 5 12 140%
Shorts & bermudas 86 95 10%
Source: Eurostat 2009 and Euromonitor 2009
Skirts & smocks 28 24 -14%
2.2.4  Retail sales by product category Blouses 527 544 3%
Table 5 gives a brief overview of the market share for the most T-Shirts 1’186 1’133 -4%
relevant clothing segments, divided into men and women. For- Tops without sleeves 270 216 -20%
merly, French consumers tended to buy more formal clothing than
Polos 135 111 -18%
consumers in other European countries. This share has declined,
Bodies 7 17 143%
to the advantage of basic leisurewear sales.
Pullovers, waistcoats, 270 257 -5%
cardigans
Table 5: Market share of outerwear by gender, 2003 and 2007 [%]
Sweatshirts 97 92 -5%
Women Men Tracksuits 61 70 15%
2003 2007 2003 2007 Swimsuits 236 231 -2%
Formal 36 32 41 37 Unitards 58 56 -3%
Casual 39 41 30 32 Sport shirts 56 48 -14%
Leisure 19 20 21 22 Other pieces of outerwear 0 69 n.a.
Active sports 6 7 8 9 Other small pieces 999 999 0
Total 100 100 100 100 of outerwear
Total 10’604 10’073 -5%
Source: CBI
Total pieces of outerwear 6’674 6’261 -6%
Table 6 indicates the sales development of the women’s outerwear Total small pieces 3’930 3’812 -3%
segment in € million of sales. of outerwear
Source: Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin

The above table indicates the sales development of the women’s

clothing segment in thousands of articles. Overall, an important
decrease in sales can be observed between 2007 and 2008.

14 l Outerwear 2010
2.2.5  Consumer behaviour
2.2.5.1  Consumer preferences
As with the young generations in other European countries, French
children like U.S. fashion styles and are influenced by American
culture. Therefore, American brands and/or brands perceived to
be American are particularly successful in the children's wear
segment. The youngsters are also interested in sportswear, which
is used also as everyday clothing. Sports like rugby, football and
basketball are quite popular.
The trends for ‘American’ styles strongly influenced by the ‘Hip- Hop
Scene’ and the preferred sportswear are expressed in the sales
of items like t-shirts, sweatshirts, polo-shirts in combination with
baseball caps. Young consumers’ demand for sportswear helped
the largest sports retailer Decathlon to increase its sales of
children’s clothing in the last few years.
As regards fabrics, there is a trend towards natural, easy to wear
and modern fibres (jersey, cotton flannel, stretch, technical fabrics,
polar fleeces). The children’s parents prefer clothing which is
easy to wash and which requires no ironing. However, 70% of the
clothing of 4 to 14 year old is selected by the children themselves
and not by the parents. Children from six years up develop brand
awareness, which is mainly formed by their peer group and TV
advertising.
Women’s wear follows the broad trend toward more casual and
sporty garments. Several fashion forecasts announced that
­collections will be more feminine and will have less casual details.
The younger men in France are more fashion-conscious, spending
more on clothing in the last few years than before. The fact that
casual wear is more common for the office is a particular trend
which has grown in recent years.
Children’s wear is more classic and formal for special occasions
than in other EU countries, like The Netherlands and Germany.
However, younger fashion brands have increased the last few
years, and more and more have an adult look.
Trends in consumption
• In women’s wear, clothing is becoming more feminine. Luxury
looking materials and colours are used to create a good feeling
in answer to financial unstable times.
• The increasing feminization of clothing products could drive
trends for clothing accessories, also for the use of pearls and
embroidery. Luxury appearance materials and colours are used
to create a good feeling, in answer to financial instable times.
Other forecasts are:
A-symmetrical openings and several layers will become popular.
Several lengths can be created in one garment or in a combi
nation of several garments, like skirt with long tunic or blouse
and short waistcoat or short jacket on a top.
Accents on the waist by large belts or accents on the neck by
wide scarves in accent colours.
Skirts remain popular in all types and kind of lengths.
• In general, there is much dynamism in consumer preferences
at the moment. Cultural changes are succeeding each other ­
rapidly. This makes predictions of consumer behaviour rather
tricky.
• Babies’ wear is still classical and hardly follows the trends of
adult clothing. Newborn collections are mainly plain or have
childlike decorations and are less influenced by the casual
trends, as in adult fashion.
• Materials, like cashmere and angora, are very expensive
and delicate to treat, but in France where more luxury fashion
is ­appreciated by women, this quality is and will become more
popular.
• For the coming winter-season (2010/11) the trend is warm ­
colours in hairy woollen yarns such as mohair, angora or ­
cashmere. This combination gives knitwear a voluminous look
and warm feeling.
• Tunics and long pullovers to wear like a dress combined with
legging/trousers/tights will become more popular.
• Catwalk reports announced an upcoming trend for winter
2010/11: more accent on neck and shoulder, for example big
collars or cowls.
• Consumers become more aware of sustainability issues.
Outerwear 2010 l 15
2.2.5.2  Consumer expenditures Import prices from DCs were 61% of the level of intra-EU import
Taking the total consumer expenditure on manufactured goods as prices, but they fell as from 2004.
reference value, the share of consumer expenditures on clothing
has declined by 1.9% from 2004 to 2009. Table 9: Developments of average import prices per unit in France [€]
2006 2007 2008 CAGR*
The development of consumer expenditure of manufactured goods
Total 4.89 4.82 4.74 -1.0%
increased in the same period by 13.9% and the expenditure on
imports
total clothing and total outerwear by less than 1%. This is certainly
due to two different factors, which are a) falling clothing prices due
Intra-EU 6.39 6.23 6.16 -1.2%
to cheap imports and b) to shift of expenditure to electronic goods
and leisure. Developing 3.79 3.76 3.73 -0.5%
countries

Table 7: Development of consumer expenditure in France

Source: Gherzi analysis based on CBI Note:* Compound Annual Growth Rate
2004 2006 2008 2009*
Manufactured goods [€ bn] 231.6 250.5 261.0 263.7
This data must be interpreted with care, as changes in imports do
Total clothing [€ bn] 38.7 39.8 40.6 39.0 not reflect the demand in France.
In % of manufactured goods 16.7% 15.9% 15.6% 14.8%
Total outerwear [€ bn] 33.9 34.9 35.3 34.0
In % of total consumption 87.7% 87.6% 87.0% 87.2%
2.3 Imports.
Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *estimation 2.3.1  Total imports
According to Eurostat, total imports of apparel into France amoun-
According to Table 8, which considers the expenditures on outer- ted to € 13.1 billion in 2008. Since 1999, there has been a continu-
wear by gender in France, consumption of women’s outerwear ous increase in clothing imports. The share of imports of outerwear
clothing was € 18.2 billion in 2009 and accounted for 53.5% of in total French clothing consumption is over 30%.
total clothing consumption.
Increasing imports are more than balancing the shrinking domestic
Table 8: Consumer expenditure on outerwear clothing outerwear production. A comparison of the following Table 10 and
Table 11 shows that the proportion of men’s and women's wear
2004 2006 2008 2009*
imports into France are different for knitted and woven outerwear.
Women [€ bn] 18.0 18.8 18.8 18.2
While the imports of woven outerwear for men (€ 2.5 billion) and
Men [€ bn] 9.8 9.9 10.1 9.7 women (€ 3.5 billion) are at a similar level, the imports of knitted
Children 6.1 6.2 6.4 6.1 women' s wear (€ 0.9 billion) clearly over top the imports of knitted
(aged 3-14) [€ bn] menswear (€ 0.4 billion). The imports of woven outerwear are,
Total [€ bn] 33.9 34.9 35.3 34.0 depending on the product category, five to nine times higher than
Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *estimation the imports of knitted outerwear.

2.2.6  Price development of clothing
Prices of imports into France fell during the period 2006-2008, as
table 9 indicates. Prices from DCs (Developing Countries), as well
as from other EU countries fell during the period mentioned.
In 2008, price movements reinforced the trend of increasing
purchases of lower-priced outerwear from Asian manufacturers.
According to Table 10, the imports of knitted outerwear into France
increased steadily from 2006 to 2008. Active sportswear such as
tracksuits, ski suits and swimwear is particularly worth mentioning.
Woven outerwear for both genders is by far the largest sector with
€ 7.2 billion in 2008.

16 l Outerwear 2010
Table 10: imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’442 33’622 1’630 34’265 1’636 31’359
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, 1’331 88’256 1’686 92’406 1’395 76’811
shorts etc. (61.03)

Shirts (61.05) 6’372 175’888 8’697 256’631 9’828 285’013

Sub Total 9’145 297’765 12’012 383’301 12’859 393’183
Sub Total Extra EU 8’045 118’297 11’115 160’301 12’181 180’412
For women or girls
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 2’956 84’701 2’181 76’668 1’912 81’899
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses, 11’592 453’299 13’602 576’785 15’659 570’854
skirts etc. (61.04)

Blouses and shirts (61.06) 4’443 190’839 6’512 265’987 7’812 283’737
Sub Total 18’992 728’839 22’295 919’440 25’383 936’490
Sub Total Extra EU 18’278 306’438 22’234 407’945 25’383 448’996
For both genders
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 60’245 1’580’733 61’031 1’615’262 54’764 1’465’754
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats, 64’190 1’946’166 60’872 1’989’934 61’043 2’135’580
etc. (61.10)

Babies’ garments (61.11) 21’983 323’331 22’197 325’293 22’210 328’447

Garments rubberised, impregnated, 1’555 24’779 1’711 27’490 1’588 24’768
etc. (61.13)

Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 6’326 120’928 6’768 119’140 8’003 141’282
Other made-up clothing accessories (61.17) 3’735 74’194 3’630 76’235 3’951 76’063
Sub Total 158’034 4’070’132 156’208 4’153’354 151’559 4’171’895
Sub Total Extra EU 143’974 2’101’010 147’397 2’137’733 142’665 2’105’247
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear (61.12) 4’203 211’871 3’942 203’673 3’385 198’164
Special garments for professional 6’046 142’545 5’539 132’021 6’071 127’166
sporting or other purposes (61.14)

Sub Total 10’249 354’415 9’480 335’694 9’455 325’330

Sub Total Extra EU 6’855 147’698 6’725 141’315 6’784 139’255
TOTAL 196’419 5’451’152 199’996 5’791’789 199’257 5’826’897
TOTAL EXTRA EU 177’152 2’673’443 187’471 2’847’294 187’013 2’873’909

Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 17
In comparison to previous years, the share of the non-EU coun- The import of the women’s woven segment increased from € 3.4
tries in the knitted outerwear imports is with 49% stable, while the billion in 2006 to € 3.5 billion in 2008. Woven suits for men (€ 1.6
overall trend in France is an increase in imports. The end of the billion) and women (€2.4 billion) have the highest share of imports.
MFA radically changed the French textile and clothing production
landscape. An innumerable number of mills have been closed and
many jobs have been lost.

Table 11: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008
2006 2007 2008
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 12’377 352’898 10’880 346’659 11’287 370’994
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, 49’466 1’557’904 50’733 1’606’991 51’388 1’613’016
shorts, etc. (62.03)

Shirts (62.05) 13’827 491’092 14’806 521’555 14’635 533’004

Sub Total 75’670 2’401’895 76’419 2’475’205 77’310 2’517’014
Sub Total Extra EU 72’844 1’164’986 76’043 1’219’641 77’298 1’232’880
For women or girls
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 14’219 478’088 14’132 511’264 13’588 554’816
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, 60’269 2’544’895 57’539 2’507’454 57’579 2’409’944
etc (62.04)

Blouses and shirts (62.06) 7’067 421’858 6’797 455’432 7’969 530’464
Sub Total 81’555 3’444’840 78’468 3’474’150 79’136 3’495’224
Sub Total Extra EU 76’544 1’596’160 77’808 1’562’223 79’126 1’597’206
For both genders
Babies garments (62.09) 10’086 187’197 10’162 188’624 9’777 180’947
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 29’558 360’977 28’799 327’161 29’464 315’592
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 2’350 115’410 1’842 112’583 2’530 128’206
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 358 43’100 481 43’986 478 44’262
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 1’346 36’189 994 27’729 894 26’888
Other made-up clothing accessories 3’370 65’949 3’945 75’315 3’284 74’284
(62.17)

Sub Total 47’068 808’823 46’222 775’398 46’426 770’178

Sub Total Extra EU 26’418 432’433 26’500 408’163 27’599 406’395
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 23’574 402’070 23’759 399’016 28’647 461’674
Sub Total 23’574 402’070 23’759 399’016 28’647 461’674
Sub Total Extra EU 15’325 206’800 16’111 217’938 19’124 253’924
TOTAL 227’866 7’057’627 224’868 7’123’769 231’519 7’244’091

TOTAL EXTRA EU 191’132 3’400’379 196’462 3’407’965 203’147 3’490’404

Source: Eurostat 2009

18 l Outerwear 2010
2.3.2  Outward processing trade (OPT)
The analysis of the largest suppliers of OPT outerwear into France
in Table 12 shows a downturn in OPT. Overall, the OPT business
plays a minor role in France, accounting for only 0.66% of the total
outerwear clothing imports.
2.3.3  Largest suppliers of outerwear
Table 13 gives a very good overview of the twenty major extra EU
countries supplying clothing to France from 2006 to 2008. The
share of clothing imports from extra EU countries in France was
48.6% in 2006 and had slightly increased to 48.7% in 2008.

Tunisia is the most important OPT partner country for France.
Morocco is second, as it was in the previous two years. Belarus
is catching up to China and could become fourth in the coming
years.
The imports from outside the EU in 2008 amounted to € 6.4
billion, whereas € 6.7 billion were imported from the European
Union. While the total imports to France amounted to € 12.5 billion
in 2006, they exceeded € 13.1 billion in 2008, an increase of
4.8%. Overall, the growth rates of total imports increased by 3%
and 1%, respectively. The main import countries for France from
outside Europe are: China (€ 2.4 billion), Tunisia (€ 0.7 billion) and
Morocco (€ 0.6 billion). Morocco and Tunisia are French spea-
king countries; this is a very important advantage for them when
exporting to France.

Table 12: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 Change 2007 Change 2008

[‘000 €] from 2006 [‘000 €] from 2007 [‘000 €]

1 Tunisia 36599 -9% 33’480 -7% 31’249

2 Morocco 36’294 -21% 28’694 -24% 21’859
3 Ukraine 24’319 -10% 21’874 -27% 15’928
4 China 6’842 55% 10’636 -22% 8’301
5 Belarus 1’757 41% 2’486 106% 5’130
6 Serbia 1’831 -12% 1’613 -17% 1’345
7 Bosnia - Herzegovina 583 12% 653 17% 766
8 Hong Kong 451 5% 474 52% 719
9 Moldova 478 214% 1’500 -65% 529
10 Lao (People’s Democratic Republic) 0 0 400
11 Madagascar 840 -1% 835 -59% 340
12 Vietnam 38 194% 111 160% 289
13 India 339 270% 1’256 -81% 244
14 Turkey 31 11% 35 422% 182
15 Croatia 65 102% 131 -42% 76
16 Egypt 17 -100% 0 35
17 South Korea 0 0 19
18 USA 0 0 15
19 Thailand 44 -75% 11 -68% 3
20 Switzerland 0 28 -100% 0
Total 163’031 -36% 104’125 -16% 87’428
Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 19
Table 13: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008
Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
1 China 1’706’835 21% 2’063’477 16% 2’403’807
2 Tunisia 724’022 -2% 712’974 1% 716’682
3 Morocco 673’775 -1% 667’699 -5% 632’342
4 India 575’986 -2% 563’260 3% 579’893
5 Bangladesh 506’696 0% 505’593 6% 538’135
6 Turkey 473’249 -4% 456’431 -5% 432’976
7 Switzerland 147’655 26% 186’272 3% 191’969
8 Mauritius 141’210 -10% 127’783 -13% 110’726
9 Madagascar 82’148 9% 89’489 -6% 84’430
10 Thailand 160’357 -15% 135’684 -39% 82’628
11 Pakistan 71’823 9% 78’482 0% 78’534
12 Vietnam 83’922 -2% 82’205 -7% 76’574
13 Indonesia 99’603 -15% 84’583 -18% 69’144
14 Hong Kong 125’119 -33% 83’618 -54% 38’281
15 South Korea 67’096 -36% 42’641 -21% 33’894
16 Cambodia 33’740 -2% 33’020 -13% 28’743
17 Malaysia 25’550 8% 27’592 -14% 23’682
18 Macao 67’610 -23% 52’341 -62% 20’126
19 USA 19’313 2% 19’660 -7% 18’336
20 Sri Lanka 24’124 -23% 18’470 -1% 18’228
Extra-EU 27 6’073’822 3% 6’255’259 2% 6’364’314
Intra-EU 27 6’434’957 4% 6’660’298 1% 6’706’674
Total 12’508’779 3% 12’915’557 1% 13’070’988

Source: Eurostat 2009

Typically, the French consider themselves to be rather weak market. This fact also explains the leadership position of the
in foreign language skills. Moreover, they are not very keen on ­relatively small EU country Belgium, which is characterised as
­speaking another language than French. This fact should be a multilingual country, including the French language. Much
considered by foreign manufacturers wishing to sell in the French ­business with Belgium is done on a subcontracting basis.

20 l Outerwear 2010
Table 14: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
1 Belgium 1’912’349 9% 2’078’537 0% 2’071’727
2 Italy 1’221’326 7% 1’303’005 -1% 1’294’389
3 Germany 908’896 2% 930’096 8% 1’003’780
4 Spain 451’480 -2% 443’357 35% 598’331
5 Netherlands 527’459 2% 538’405 -11% 480’377
6 UK 310’152 4% 323’906 1% 327’259
7 Portugal 284’717 5% 297’679 -4% 287’208
8 Romania 289’010 -19% 235’203 -23% 182’195
9 Luxembourg 32’180 -8% 29’705 0% 29’702
10 Bulgaria 140’716 -19% 113’425 -14% 98’016
Intra-EU 27 5’933’106 4% 6’141’834 2% 6’266’298
Extra-EU 27 6’073’822 3% 6’255’259 2% 6’364’314
Total 12’508’779 3% 12’915’557 1% 13’070’988

Source: Eurostat 2009

that has given the retailers more purchasing power against the
manufacturers in comparison with the formerly fragmented small
2.4 Trade structure. retailers.

2.4.1 Developments in the retail trade
It would be too simple to assume that price is the only area of
competition in the French market. Quality, style and trend also play
an important role.
The clothing retail sector in France went through major changes
over the last years. From the beginning of the 1980’s, consumers
were used to independent shops that offered various brands. Ap-
parel sold by independent retailers in France accounted for 39.1%
of total sales in 1995. In 2008 only 20% were sold by independent
retailers. Within the last years, the multiples also (as in other Euro-
pean countries) invaded France, and consumers are more likely to
buy in speciality chain stores with large outlets.
This development enhanced lower prices for outerwear through
the greater competition and number of goods imported by these
chains. These companies, of which most are French chains, have
a very up-to-date concept with a high standard in logistics, IT
and advertising. There seems to be a real competition on who is
the next to open up a high-end logistics centre. The professional
management system in the clothing sector has swept away small
retailers. This development has been a concentrated process
The multiples are now in the position to react more quickly to
consumer demands by following a strategy of greater ‘just in time’
supply to the shops and the consumers. The chains act like manuf-
acturers in this respect. However, the link to the manufacturers has
become closer. The importance of middlemen has been reduced
and retailers buy directly from the clothing companies (abroad).
The increased purchasing power of the retailers stimulated some
clothing manufacturers to build up an independent distribution sy-
stem by operating self-owned outlets or using a ‘franchise system’.
2.4.2 Leading retailers
In France, there are about 33'250 active clothing retail companies,
which have 47'500 stores, of which an estimated two thirds are
owned by independent retailers, which have fewer than 5 outlets.
The big number of specialists chains indicates that the French
market is less concentrated than, for instance, the UK market. Im-
portant French groups are Vivarte, Auchan/Mulliez, Etam, Groupe
Beaumanoir and Promod. These groups are also active in many
European countries.

Outerwear 2010 l 21
Table 15: Major specialised clothing chains of French origin in France, 2008-2009

Clothing retail chain Parent company Website Number of outlets

General
Kiabi Association Mulliez www.kiabi.com 160
La Halle aux Vêtements Vivarte www.lahalle.com 345 (463)
Vêtimarché ITM Intermarché www.vetimarche.com 154
Eurodif Eurodif UOCR www.eurodif.com 74
Men and women
Armand Thierry Ecce www.armandthiery.fr 279
Women’s wear
Promod Promod www.promod.eu 271 (783)
Camaïeu Femme Cime-Camaïeu www.camaieu.fr 504
Etam Etam Developpemt www.etam.com 718 (3’300)
Pimkie Association Mulliez www.pimkie.fr 270 (655)
Mim New Look (UK) www.mim.fr 278
Caroll Vivarte www.caroll.com 350 (2’350)
Cache Cache Groupe Beaumanoir www.cachecache.fr 541
Patrice Bréal Groupe Beaumanoir www.patricebreal.fr 239
Scottage Groupe Beaumanoir www.scottage.fr 89
Men
Brice Brice www.brice.fr 204 (220)
Jules Association Mulliez www.jules.fr 238
Children
Jacadi Id Group www.jacadi.fr 109 (250)
Okaidi / Obaidi Id Group www.idgroup.com 560
Sports
Décathlon Association Mulliez www.decathlon.com 235 (475)
Intersport Intersport Group www.intersport.com 522 (4’885)
Sport2000 Groupe Sport 2000 www.sport2000.fr 600 (2’446)
Source: CBI - Note: Numbers in brackets including outlets abroad

Only three out of the top ten general clothing specialists in France
are companies from abroad - C&A (from Germany; 119 stores),
H&M (from Sweden; 133 stores) and Inditex from Spain (231
stores in France, of which 115 Zara stores). Other foreign retail
companies, active in France, are other formula of Inditex (mainly
Bershka), Cortefiel; Mango (also from Spain; 107 stores); Benet-
ton (from Italy; 91 stores); M&S Mode (from The Netherlands; 150
stores), Esprit (from Germany/Hong Kong; 640 stores) and Gap
(from the USA; 17 stores).

22 l Outerwear 2010
2.4.3  Distribution channels 2.4.3.1.2  Clothing multiples
Table 16 gives an overview on sales made by different clothing re- The long-term trend clearly indicates a higher importance of
tail channels in 2004 to 2008. Compared to previous years, sales clothing multiples and more concentration of the market (Journal
in independent clothing shops are decreasing. They once used to de Textile). Generally, the French market is still less concentrated
be the most important location for the French to buy their clothing. in the retail sector than in other European countries. However,
Now they are (at 20%) behind the multiples that have a share of this is expected to change. The outlets for children's wear are
37%. The trend towards more concentration is also reflected by numerous. There are three times more outlets of clothing multiples
the relatively high share of super- and hypermarkets (11%). Home for women than for men. The largest player in the retail business
shopping companies took some 9% of sales value in 2008. is the Groupe Vivarte (formerly Groupe André). Groupe Vivarte
owns the clothing chains Caroll, Kookaï, Creeks, Liberto and La
Table 16: Market shares of retail distribution of clothing in France, Halle aux Vêtements. Shoe shop chains called André, San Marina,
2004 – 2008 [% of value] Orcade-Minelli, La Halle aux Chaussures and Chaussland et
Besson also belong to Groupe Vivarte. In November 2001, Groupe
Market Shares 2004 2006 2008
of retail distribution André was renamed Groupe Vivarte.
Specialists 59 58 57
Market share: 37% in 2008, Trend: Stable
Independent retailers 21 21 20
Clothing multiples 38 37 37
2.4.3.1.3  Department and variety stores
Non-specialists 41 42 43 The main department store in France is Les Galeries Lafayette,
Department and variety stores 7 8 9 which also operates under the name Nouvelles Galeries. Ano-
Hyper- and supermarkets 12 12 11 ther department store of importance in France is PPR (Pinault-
Printemps-Redoute). Variety stores include Prisunec, Monoprix
Home shopping companies 8 8 9
and Inno, which belong to Galeries Lafayette. The importance
Sports shops and other chains 7 8 9
of department stores has stabilised over the last few years after
Other channels 7 6 5 decreases in the last decade.
Total 100 100 100
Source: Journal de Textile (2009) and UFIH (2009) Market share: 9 % in 2008, Trend: Increasing

Factory Outlet Centres have also gained importance, in 2008 there
were 21 of them spread around the country with an total area of
280'000m2 and a total turnover of € 0.8 billion.
2.4.3.1  Retailers
2.4.3.1.1  Independent retailers
The share of independent retailers decreased from 28% in 1995
to 20% in 2008. Independent retailers are defined as retailers with
less than five ‘active’ outlets. There are around 33'250 independent
outlets in France. Their buying is sometimes linked to franchise
organisations. Although the share of independent specialised
retailers is generally decreasing, it is still much higher than in other
countries. Figures indicate that the strong decline came to a stop
in 2004, when there was an upward trend.
2.4.3.1.4  Hyper- and supermarkets
The grocery super- and hypermarkets offer comparatively more
men's wear. The supermarkets and hypermarkets that have a
higher share in the menswear segment have done better for
major items, but are reported to have problems with small items,
although socks and underwear constitute their main clothing
business. A trend can be noted away from cheap products to
fashionable clothing offering better quality.
Market share: 11% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing

Market share: 20% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing

Outerwear 2010 l 23
2.4.3.1.5  Home shopping companies
The mail-order business in France slightly increased during the
past 3 years but still remains under 10%. Among the mail-order
houses, La Redoute and 3 Suisses must be mentioned. La
Redoute is owned by PPR, and 3 Suisses belongs to the Groupe
3 Suisses International, which also carries the mail-order busi-
ness Blanche Porte. Home shopping companies are said to have
aggressive sales policies and heavy promotion. In the longer run,
however, the mail-order business is expected to grow, since more
and more French consumers have Internet access at home. It
is only a matter of time until the French return to buying certain
products from the home shopping companies.
Market share: 9 % in 2008, Trend: slightly increasing
2.4.3.1.6  Sports shops and other chains
There are four relevant sports shops in France; Decathlon, Go
Sports, Sport 2000 and Intersport. Sportswear is often used by
the French youth and mixed with other styles.
Market share: 9% in 2008, Trend: Increasing
2.4.3.1.7  Other channels
The share of other distribution channels is decreasing. Other
channels are those that do not fall into the definition of the above
mentioned channels. Examples of such distribution channels
would be markets, fairs, and factory outlets.
Market share: 5% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing
2.4.3.2  Sales intermediaries
2.4.3.2.1  Clothing manufacturers
French manufacturers have slid against the retailers and their
position has weakened in recent years. This is also confirmed by
the fact that there are fewer ‘manufacturer’s brands’, because they
are partially being replaced by the ‘retailer’s brands’. The industry
is characterised by high price pressure: on the one hand, consu-
mers have become more price conscious; on the other, imports of
cheap garments from abroad lower the prices. Manufacturers have
no chance but to follow the retailers. French manufacturers often
produce their core product range on their own, but they also buy
a considerable share of their product assortment from manufac-
turers abroad. Apparently, they do so in order to add certain pro-
ducts to complete their collection. Opportunities exist for exporters
who are interested in forming relationships or partnerships with
French producers.
24 l Outerwear 2010
The clothing manufacturer has to rely on the distributors’ promo-
tion and advertising for their respective collection. This can cause
problems, for instance when brand names are promoted ina-
dequately. This can only be avoided by the installation of a costly
own retail system by the manufacturer. Because of the strong
position of the retailers, some French clothing brands are ready to
accept these greater financial investments.
Establishing their own retail chain allows them to adapt more
quickly to evolving market trends and have more influence on the
distribution. The sales personnel can be trained according to the
marketing strategy as well as the product’s image. In any case, it is
recommendable not to neglect other local apparel manufacturers
when building up an own retail system.
2.4.3.2.2  Central buying associations
There are not many important buying organisations for independent
retailers in France, as they are mainly provided by the French clothing
manufacturers and the wholesalers and importers. For the most part,
meaningful buying associations can be found in the sportswear seg-
ment, for instance Intersport, Go Sport and Sport 2000.
2.4.3.2.3  Sales Agents
A sales agent based in France normally takes a commission of 10-
15% if the manufacturer is from overseas (slightly higher commis-
sion because of higher risks). The sales commission within France
or Europe is normally below 10%.
Clothing exports into the French market via a sales agent are very
common. Especially in the case of France, it is recommended
for foreign manufacturers EU to work with agents as the buying
of clothing is very much concentrated on the so called ‘centrales
d’achats’. The buying managers often import through sales agents
based in France who represent reliable manufacturers from abroad.
2.4.3.2.4  Importers/wholesalers
Some French retailers (mainly super- and hypermarkets, textile
discounters and to some extent clothing chains) prefer not to run
own control and sourcing units in overseas markets. These retai-
lers buy their products via importers/wholesalers and often get
attractive conditions. Since the end of the eighties, the importers
have gained importance as the previously very strong national
French clothing industry became less competitive due to incre-
asing production costs. As a result, many importers/wholesalers
enjoy increasing orders and revenues.
2.5 French fashion trade fairs.
Table 17: French fashion trade fairs 2010
Trade fair Date Location
Salon international de la lingerie 23. - 25.01.2010 Paris

Who’s next (general clothing) 23. - 26.01.2010 Paris

Prêt-à-Porter (women’s wear) 23. - 26.01.2010 Paris

Communiquez Textile (general clothing, textiles) 02. - 04.02.2010 Lyon

Rendez-Vouz Femme (Paris Fashion Week) 05. - 08.03.2010 Paris

TRANSITION (fashion and accessories) 13. - 15.04.2010 Paris

Interselection (general clothing) 13. - 15.04.2010 Paris

Prêt-à-Porter (women’s wear) 04. - 07.09.2010 Paris

Mode city (lingerie and swim wear) 04. - 06.09.2010 Paris

TRANSITION (fashion and accessories) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris

FATEX (The fashion sourcing trade fair) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris

Interselection (general clothing) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris

Who’s next (general clothing) 19. - 21.10.2010 Paris

Rendez-Vouz Femme (Paris Fashion Week) October 2010 Paris

Source: Gherzi research, AUMA

The Prêt-à-Porter Trade Fair is an international women ready- In the highly competitive European fashion world, French trade
to-wear exhibition with a ‘boutique’ section. The collections are fairs are major opportunities for business and marketing on an
­normally presented on the classical pre-order system, mea- international scale, although the Prêt-à-Porter has slipped against
ning half a year ahead of the actual sales in the shops. The the Italian and German clothing trade fairs in recent years.
winter collection is shown in March, the summer collection in
­September of the previous year. The fair has a certain importance
at the ­European level, but it has the character of an image fair.
­Nevertheless, it is the French trade fair that attracts the most
visitors.

Who’s Next is less specialised according to gender. Exhibitions

include men's wear, women's wear and children's wear. It is also
held twice a year and has attracted more than 30,000 visitors in
recent years.

Outerwear 2010 l 25
2.6 List of major buyers in France.
Clothing Chain Stores
CMC agnès b.
17, rue de Dieu
F - 75010 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4003 45 00
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4003 45 50
www.europe.agnesb.fr
mailing@agnesb.fr
Caroll International
38, rue du Hameau
F - 75740 Paris Cedex 15
Tel.: +33 -0- 810 30 40 30
Fax: +33 -01- 56 23 34 07
contact@caroll.com or
adenaes@caroll.com
(Direction commerciale
internationale)
www.caroll.com
Chattawak
29, boulevard des Italiens
F - 75002 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 - 44 94 80 60
Fax: +33 – 1 – 42 66 93 92
www.chattawak.fr
courrier@chattawak.fr
Brice
152, avenue Alfred Motte
F- 59100 ROUBAIX
Tel.: +33 (0)3 20 99 36 36
www.brice.fr
contact@brice.fr
Aubert France
4, rue de la Ferme - BP
30130
F - 68705 Cernay
aubert.contact@aubert.fr
www.aubert.fr
26 l Outerwear 2010
Product range: ladies’, Infinitif
men’s, childrenswear 26, rue du Caire
Price segment: F - 75002 Paris
high price level Tel.: +33 – 1 – 45 08 15 29
Number of outlets: 229 www.infinitif.com
shops (38 in France) info@infinitif.com
Product range:
Kookai
womenswear
45, avenue Victor Hugo
Price segment:
93534 Saint Denis la Plaine
mid-price level
Cedex
Number of outlets: 350
Tel.: +33 – 399 292 994
shops, of which more than
www.kookai.fr
100 abroad and 75 franchi-
serviceclient.kookai@mix-
sing partners + mail order
commerce.com
Product range:
ladies’, ­menswear La Halle aux Vêtements
Price segment: 26, rue de Flandres
mid-price level F - 75019 Paris
Number of outlets: 125 Tel.: +33 – 1 – 533 50 425
shops + 90 franchising Fax: +33 – 1 – 533 50 480
partners contact@contact-lahalle.com
www.lahalle.com
Product range:
menswear Oliver Grant Diffusion
Price segment: 74, rue Elysée Reclus
mid-price level F - 69150 Décibes Cedex
Number of outlets: 220 Tel.: +33 – 472 – 81 25 60
Fax: +33 – 472 – 81 25 61
contact@olivergrant.com
www.olivergrant.com
Product range:
babies’ wear
Price segment:
mid-price level Promod – Centrale d’Achat
Number of outlets: more Chemin du Verseau
than 200 shops (in Europe) F - 59847 Marcq en Baroeul
+ mail order Tel.: +33 – 3 – 204 57 551
Fax: +33 – 3 – 204 57 454
contact@promod.fr
www.promod.fr
Product range:
womenswear
Price segment:
mid- to high price level
Number of outlets:
10 in F + 400 franchising
partners
Product range:
womenswear
Price segment:
mid-price level
Number of outlets:
30 outlets + 120
franchise partners + 320
franchise partners abroad
Note: belongs to the former
André Group, Paris
Product range: ladies’,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment:
low to mid-price level
Number of outlets: 480
Note: belongs to the former
André Group, Paris
Product range:
womenswear, menswear,
sportswear
Price segment:
mid- to high pricelevel
Number of outlets:
32 shops,
3 franchising Partners
Product range:
womenswear
Price segment:
low price level
Number of outlets:
203 shops in France
Clothing Chain Stores
Tartine-Et-Chocolat.Com
Bebeo Sa
Parc des Docks de Saint-
Ouen,
Lot 567 - Portes B et C
50, rue Ardoin
F - 93400 ST OUEN 1 –
4562339
www.tartine-et-chocolat.com
Tati Sa
81, rue Cartier Bresson
F - 93697 Pantin Cedex
tati_contact@agora-distribu-
tion.com
www.tati.fr
Groupe Zannier
Head Office
6 bis, rue Gabriel Laumain
F - 75010 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 44 83 45 45
Fax: +33 – 1 – 44 83 45 30
jfrousseau@groupezannier.fr
www.groupezannier.fr
Jeans- and Sportswear
Product range: Chausport
childrenswear Belongs to Société Spodis
Price segment: 96 rue du Pont Rompu
mid-price level F-5920 Chausport Tourcoing
Number of outlets: 3 shops, T: +33 -3- 59 36 02 86
15 franchising partners service-client@chausport.fr
www.chausport.com
Decathlon-Sport
4, Boulevard de Mons
Product range: F - 59650 Villeneuve d’Asqu
all kinds of clothing Tel.: +33 – 3 – 203 350 00
Price segment: Fax: +33 – 3 – 203 350 01
low price level contact@decathlon.com
Number of outlets: 60 www.decathlon.com
(of which 20 are for marrige
clothing) and 2 (in Poland Decouverte Vêtements
& Spain) Cloup Diffusion CD Textile
28, rue Maillot
Product range: F – 81100 Castres
childrenswear Tel.: +33 – 5 63 59 24 39
Price segment: Fax: +33 – 5 63 59 31 43
mid-price level cdtextile@aol.com
Number of outlets: www.creatives-decouverte.com
270 outlets
Note: own brands like Trios
Pommes, ITM Entreprises S.A.
Hawai – 60% of the clothing 24 rue Auguste Chadrieres
is sourced F-65737 Paris Cedex 5
from outside Tel. : +33 - 1 45 33 74 17
Fax : +33 - 1 45 33 39 13
www.itmentreprises.fr
Lasserre (modern cottage)
20, chemin de Laporte
F - 31300 Toulouse
Tel.: +33 – 561 – 49 13 13
Fax: +33 – 561 – 49 98 48
enquiries@lasserre.co.uk
NAF NAF SAS
6-10, Boulevard Foch
F - 93807 Epinay sur Seine
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4813 8888
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4813 8850
serviceclients@nafnaf.fr
direction.internationale@
nafnaf.fr
dircom@nafnaf.fr
www.nafnaf-sa.com
Product range: Casual
wear and active sports-
wear, sports articles
Price segment:
mid-price level
Number of outlets: 81
Product range:
Casual wear and
active sportswear
Price segment:
mid-price level
Number of outlets: 220,
belongs to Auchan
Product range:
Womenswear and
sportswear
Price segment:
mid-price level
Number of outlets:
10 + 45 franchise
partners (Brands: Cache
Cache, Caroll, Old River)
Product range: all kinds of
clothing incl. sportswear
Price segment:
lower price level
Number of outlets:
163 shops ‘Vetimarché’
Product range: sportswear
Price segment:
mid-price level
Number of outlets:
40 + 35 franchise partners
Product range:
womenswear
Price segment:
mid- to high price level
Number of outlets:
142 in France
(over 400 worldwide, in
over 40 countries)
Outerwear 2010 l 27
Department stores
Au Bon Marche (ABM)
24, rue des Sèvres
F – 75007 Paris
Tel.: +33 - 1 – 44 39 80 00
Fax: +33 - 1 – 44 39 81 19
www.lebonmarche.fr
Galeries Lafayette
40, Boulevard Haussmann
F - 75009 Paris Cedex 07
Tel.: +33 – 14 – 878 25 19
Fax: +33 – 14 – 282 80 23
www.galerieslafayette.fr
www.groupegalerieslafayette.fr
Nouvelles Galeries Réunis
66, rue des Archives
F - 75150 Paris Cedex
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 427 48 212
Fax: +33 – 1 – 427 46 652
Printemps
102, rue des Provence
F - 75009 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42855000
Fax: +33 – 1 – 42823600
17 shops + related shops
www.printemps.com
28 l Outerwear 2010
Mail Order Companies (product range: generally all kinds of
clothing, price segment: low to middle)
Product range: Cyrillus (Redcats) Good Life
all kinds of clothing Avenue Amsterdam 33, rue de l’Assomption
Price segment: F - 59910 Bondues F - 75016 Paris
mid-price level Tel.: +33 – 3 – 209 9330 Tel.: +33 – 1 – 45245650
Number of outlets: Fax: +33 – 3 – 209 9332 Fax: +33 – 1 – 45245599
approx. 150 Products: ladies’, men’s, Products: ladies’, men’s
Note: textile share app. children’s wear, Mailorder + wear Mailorder + retail
49% - 1’500 employees - 25 shops also in B, CH and www.goodlife.fr
mail-order business www.cyrillus.fr
Product range: La Blanche Porte La Redoute a Roubaix
womenswear 22, rue de la Blanche S.A.
Price segment: F - 59200 Tourcoing (Redcats)
high price level Tel.: +33 – 3 – 20282028 57, rue Blanchemaille
Number of outlets: 130 Fax: +33 – 3 – 20282029 F - 59100 Roubaix
shops in France and more www.lablancheporte.fr Tel.: +33 – 3 – 206 96 000
in other countries Fax: +33 – 3 – 202 40 337
www.redcats.com
Product range:
all kinds of clothing Maison de Valerie Neckermann Sarl
Price segment: ZI, rue Jacquart 5, rue du Château
mid-price level F - 41350 Vineuil d’Angleterre
Number of outlets: Tel.: +33 – 2 – 54425254 F - 67300 Schiltigheim
287 shops Fax: +33 – 2 – 54815053 Tel. +33 – 3 – 88191010
Note: belongs to Galeries www.lamaisondevalerie.fr Fax: +33 – 3 – 88191030
Lafayette Note: all kinds of clothing
Group – textile share in – 260 employees – textile
assortment 25% - app. share 75%
25’000 employees www.neckermann.fr
Product range: Trois Suisses International
all kinds of clothing 4, place de la République
Price segment: F - 59962 Croix
mid-price level Tel.: +33 – 3 – 20203062
Number of outlets: 20 Fax: +33 – 3 – 20720406
www.3suisses.fr
www.3suissesinternational.com
Super- and hypermarkets
Auchan
Rue de la Recherche 200
F - 59650 Villeneuve-d’Asqu
Tel.: +33 - 320 – 431212
Fax: +33 – 320 – 436400
Carrefour SA
ZAC Saint-Guénault
BP 75
F - 91002 Evry Cedex
Tel.: +33 – 360 – 913737
Fax: +33 – 360 – 794498
www.carrefour.com
Casino-Groupe
24, rue de la Montat
F - 42004 Saint-Etienne
Tel.: +33 – 477 – 454256
Fax: +33 – 477 – 454365
Intermarché
1, rue du Chemin Blanc
F - 91160 Longjumeau
Tel.: +33 – 164 – 545500
Fax: +33 – 164 – 545190
E. Leclerc
52, rue Camille Desmoulins
F - 92451 Issy Les Mouli-
neaux
Tel.: +33 – 146 – 625200
Fax: +33 – 146 – 629600
www.e-leclerc.com
Promodes
Z.I. route de Paris
F - 14127 Mondeville Cedex
Tel.: +33 – 231 – 706000
Fax: +33 – 231 – 706000
Product range: all products
Price segment: mid-price
level
Number of outlets: 14 coun-
tries, 294
hypermarkets, 588 super-
markets
Product range: all products
Price segment: mid-price
level
Number of outlets: 215
hypermarkets
Product range: all products
Price segment: mid-price
level
More than 6000 outlets (not
all selling
clothing)
Product range: all products
Price segment: mid-price
level
Number of outlets: approx.
75
Product range: all products
Price segment: mid-price
level
Product range: all products
Price segment: mid-price
level
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers
Adolphe Lafont SA
320, rue Georges Foulc
F - 69665 Villefranche sur Saone
Tel.: +33 – 474 – 62 68 68
Fax: +33 – 474 – 62 23 99
Chipie International
11, avenue du Général Leclerc
F - 11003 Carcassonne Cedex
Tel.: +33 – 468 10 54 54
Fax: +33 – 468 10 54 55
Catimini SA
94, rue Choletaise
F - 49 – 450 St. Macaire-en-
Mauges
Tel.: +33 – 241 – 71 41 41
Fax: +33 – 241 – 71 41 32
Chouette Sportswear
216, rue St. Denis
F - 75002 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42 36 39 50
Fax: +33 – 1- 42 36 4 554
Class Affaire
67, rue de Sedaine
F - 75011 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 48 06 46 06
Fax: +33 – 1 – 48 06 46 92
Coup de Coeur
6, rue de Bachaumont
F - 75002 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 448 28 500
Fax: +33 – 1 – 448 28 501
Eden Park
9, av. Hoche
F - 75008 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 538 90 010
Fax: +33 – 1 – 495 30 697
Products: ladies’, men’s
wear, professional wear,
manufacturer and
wholesaler
Products: ladies’,
men’s, children’s wear,
Manufacturer of sports-
wear, leisure wear,
35 own shops – brand
‘Chipie’- high price level
www.chipie.tm.fr
Product: children’s wear
and maternity wear
Outlets: 95 shops in
France
Products:
ladies’ wear, sportswear.
Manufacturer
Products:
ladies’, menswear
Manufacturer + 37 shops
Product: womenswear
Manufacturer + 10 shops
Product: menswear
Manufacturer + 7 shops,
15 franchising
partners
www.eden-park.tm.fr
Outerwear 2010 l 29
Buying associations

Fusalp (Creations) SA Manufacturer jeans- and

114, avenue de France sportswear
F - 74000 Annecy www.catimini.com
Tel.: +33 – 450 – 238888
Fax: +33 – 450 – 238899

Disco SA Buying for app. 4,000

18 – 20, avenue Gustave Ferrie retailers - approximately
Zone Industrielle, BP 926 1.5 billion € turn-over p.a.
F - 49309 Cholet
Tel.: +33 – 241 – 714 452
Fax: +33 – 241 – 714399

Sagam SA Product: childrenswear

4, allée Verte and maternity dresses –
F - 75011 Paris 226 members
Tel.: +33 – 1 –143577748
Fax: +33 – 1 – 143574658

Promodes Buying association for

9, rue Close Famille/B.P. 19 Discounters,
F - 78240 Chambourcy buying via C.I.M.
Tel.: +33 – 139 – 793944
Fax: +33 – 139 – 794662

Sport Europe Distribution Product: sportswear

S.E.D.
10, rue d’Arcelle
F - 38600 Fontaine
Tel.: +33 – 4 – 76859276
Fax: +33 – 4 – 76531067

30 l Outerwear 2010
3. Germany.
3.1 General economic situation.
The German economy over the last year collapsed. The gross
domestic product in Germany decreased in 2009 compared to the
previous year by a full 5% decline in real gross domestic product
(GDP). Thus, the recession was more than five times as strong as
in the previously largest decline in 1975 following the oil crisis. At
that time, a decrease of 0.9% was recorded. In 2008, the German
economy had grown by 1.3% a year earlier by 2.5%.
Reason for the severe recession was the slump in exports and
investment. Exports collapsed by 14.7%, while businesses spend
20.0% less in machinery, vehicles and other capital goods. The
construction spending fell by 0.7%. On the other hand private
consumption went up by 0.4%; because the prices barely rose and
the German government introduced the car scrap scheme. The
government consumption grew by 2.7%.
In the second quarter of 2009, the German economy grew for the
first time since the beginning of 2008 - by 0.4% over the previous
quarter. In the third quarter thanks to strong investment, fiscal
stimulus programs and the continuing increase in exports the GDP
grew by 0.7%.
For 2010, the federal government expects a growth of about 1.5%.
Unlike in previous recessions, the labour market remained
relatively stable: It is estimated that the number of unemployed
will rise in 2010 by about 450,000 compared to the 2008 annual
average. However, this figure remains well below the 1.5 million
additional jobs that were created during the years 2006 to 2008.
3.2 The market for outerwear.
3.2.1  Market size
Germany still represents the largest single market within the EU,
with an estimated total sales volume in clothing of 58.4 billion €
in 2008 (Statistics BTE Cologne 2009, amounts at retail prices
including VAT), this represents an increase of 1.0 % to 2007.
The outerwear clothing sales volume was 50.3 billion € in 2008
(down from € 50.9 billion in 2007), this corresponds to an average
spending per person of € 611 (down from € 618 in 2007) per
annum (EU average in 2008 was € 590 per annum). For the last 3
years, German households spent a constant average of 4.4% of
their disposable income on clothing.
Several factors resulted in the stagnation of expenditure on
clothing, like:
• Decreasing population figures
• Changing consumer expectations
• Growing imports from low-cost countries
3.2.2  Market characteristics
In 2009, clothing price rose by 2.4% and the average outerwear
spending per person reached € 611 in 2008, which was higher
than the EU average of € 590.
The present situation of the outerwear market in Germany can be
characterised by the following brief statements:
Clothing items from the outerwear segment can be characterised
by a permanent price decrease. The main reason for this is
the production of garments from low-wage countries. Product
imitation has become easier through global production, easy
communication by Internet / e-mail and liberalised trade.
Renowned market research institutes have stated that the ‘middle
market segment’, (which is characterised by quality consciousness
and ‘brand orientation’) has become much smaller in recent years.
The outerwear and clothing market is moving in two directions:
(a) value/price and (b) trend/fashion, whilst the middle segment is
decreasing.
German consumers are well-known for their price consciousness,
the share of private label merchandise in the outerwear market
being higher than in other major EU countries. Influences of the
media (magazines, TV and Internet) make consumers more
conscious about the latest fashion trends and prices, so they are
better informed to make a choice than before.
Especially the men’s wear market is very dynamic due to an
increasing number of fashion-conscious men. Spin-offs from adult
brands and extensive marketing led to good results in children’s
and teenage clothing from trendy brands and sports labels.
However, the market for children’s outerwear has been negatively
affected by the declining birth rate. Babies’ wear and small sizes
in children clothes are decreasing, due to the popularity of second
hand clothes and by receiving used clothes from friends and
Outerwear 2010 l 31
family. The German population is becoming oversized, so that
demand for clothes for the full figured man or woman is high and
increasing. Many companies started collections for larger sized
clothing.
3.2.3  Demographic characteristics
Figure 3 shows that the major population segment by age group is
between 40 and 44 years of age (approximately 7.5 million – male
and female), followed by those in the 35-39 bracket (approximately
7 million people). In other words, Germans in their early forties
represent the largest target group (in numbers only).
The younger generation under 25 is comparatively small, e.g. the
age group between 20 and 24 represents only approx. 4.5 million
Germans (5.5% of the whole population). The smallest potential
‘target group’, apart from those over 70, is the segment under 10
years of age. The consequences of this for clothing manufacturers
from foreign countries are evident.
The size and age structure of the population is one of the basic
determinants of how much will be spent on outerwear.
The German population is decreasing at a very slow pace from
82.5 million in 2003 to 82.3 million in 2007 and 82.0 million end of
2008. It is projected to decrease to 81.2 million by 2015.
The following positive trends influence the market for outerwear:
The older people amongst the aging population tend to spend
more on comfortable clothing, while outdoor activities are
becoming more and more popular among an important number of
active seniors.
Younger consumers are becoming more and more interested in
fashion trends.
The following negative trends influence the market for outerwear:
The German birth rate is projected to decrease over the next
years; this will affect the growth of the babies’ wear market.

Figure 3: Age structure of German population by gender, 2008

10 0 +
95-99
male 90-94 female
85-90
80-85
7 5 -7 9
7 0 -74
65-69
60-64
55-59
50-54
45-49
40-44
35-39
30-34
25-29
2 0 - 24
15 -19
10 -14
5-9
0-4

4,0 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5 3,0 3,5 4,0

Population in millions

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base

32 l Outerwear 2010
3.2.4  Retail sales by product category 3.2.5  Consumer behaviour
Table 18 shows that the overall outerwear turnover increased The latest observations on consumer behaviour based on market
by 4.1% from 2007 to the 1st quarter 2009. This is a good result research for this marketing handbook show that consumer of
compared to the high downturn of -13.4% between 2002 and the 2009:
1st quarter 2005.
• react very noticeably to economic changes and moods
The total turnover for men’s wear (6.1%) performed by 1% better • tend to buy less since all wardrobes are full and basic needs can
than women’s wear (5.1%). Children’s wear decreased by 1% be fulfilled less expensively
in total turnover; this reflects the declining birth-rate and the • are highly sensitive to price the former belief that ‘cheap things’
popularity of second hand clothes and used clothes received from are bad and expensive is good, no longer applies
friends and family. • show a clear trend towards shopping at textile discounters
• Significant fashion impulse does not exist any more. If everything
There are several ways of segmenting the clothing market. Table is acceptable, then so does the outfit from last year.
18 provides an overview of the turnover development in the major
product segments, in percentages, covering the main items of 3.2.5.1  Consumer preferences
women’s, men’s and children’s outerwear analysed by this survey. There have been tremendous shifts in consumer preferences with
regard to the most popular shops in recent years. Market leaders
Table 18: Outerwear turnover development in % by gender and confirm that this development corresponds directly to more unpre-
product categories dictable consumer buying patterns towards much cheaper goods,
closer to the actual demand (not in advance) and in shops with
2007 2008 1st Q.
2009 more ‘event character’.
Women’s wear 3 1 1
coats -4 0 -7 A survey of the clothing market segment shows that many Ger-
suits -4 2 -5 mans buy from clothing multiples (31%). Department stores lost
jackets/blazers -1 1 4 1% compared to 2004 to 11% in 2007 are has been overtook by
dresses 12 3 7 home shopping companies (13%).

skirts -6 -22 -10

Table 19 shows the trends in various retail channels between 2003
trousers 3 -1 -2
and 2007. Compared to its 28% market share in 2000, indepen-
Jeans wear 3 5 4
dent retailers constantly continue loosing market share from 2003
blouses 10 -2 -3
to 2007.
Men’s wear 3 2 1
coats 3 2 -1
Table 19: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]
suits 2 2 2
2003 2005 2007
blazers 5 -5 -6
jackets 5 5 3 Specialists 55 55 54

trousers 3 -2 -4 Independent retailers 26 25 23

Jeans wear 6 3 3 Clothing multiples* 29 30 31

Children’s wear 2 -1 -2 Non-specialists 45 45 46

Department/variety stores 13 12 11
Textiles total 2 1 1
Home shopping companies 13 12 13
Source: BTE Cologne, 2009 Hyper- and supermarkets 5 6 7
Sports stores 4 5 5
Other 10 10 10
Total 100 100 100
Source: CBI and BTE – Note: *including discounters

Outerwear 2010 l 33
Following the 2008 communication analysis report published by the 3.2.5.2 Consumer expenditure
Brigitte magazine, the 5 most preferred clothing retailers among all The private household consumption increased by 0.3% to € 1’341
female consumers between the ages of 14 and 64 years are; billion in 2009.

1) C&A The latest detailed analysis of expenditure structures of German

2) H&M households by the German Federal Statistical Office in 2009
3) Galeria Kaufhof shows that out of € 100, € 4.40 was spent on clothing. Single
4) Karstadt males have a relatively higher disposable income but save most
5) Esprit on textiles and clothing. Couples with kids spend the most on
textiles. The self-employed and employees tend to spend the most
Looking at consumer patterns, market research by Intermedia on clothing.
in 2009 on behalf of Burda Verlag, Hamburg shows interesting
results, summarised in Table 20. The key fact is that 22.7 % of wo- Table 22 gives an overview of the share of the clothing segments
men are interested in the latest fashion trends and 19.4 % of men in German household expenditure. A general tendency is for con-
have the same interest. sumers to spend less on clothing, especially since the beginning
of 2002 and the introduction of the Euro. Also a large part of their
Table 20: Consumer patterns with regard to interest in fashion, income is spent on electronic devices, services, travel, education,
purchase timing, brand awareness and bargains by gender, fitness / health and rent for housing.
2009 [%]
A different analysis of consumer expenditure by the CBI in 2009
Women Men
showed that the per capita consumption for clothing amounted to
Interest in fashion
€ 611 per year. Table 21 shows the annual consumption in diffe-
I am interested 22.7 19.4
rent product groups. A clear fact is that the per capita consumption
in the latest fashion trends
has decreased in value in recent years, as the turnover in the
I often talk about fashion 17.9 13.8
clothing market has reduced, whilst the population has increased.
Purchase timing
I often buy fashion 10.4 11.2
Table 21: Expenditures on outerwear per capita for outerwear,
at the beginning of the season,
when the new range comes 2009 [€/year]
into the shops Total (average) 611
I often buy fashion at 43.5 39.8 of which:
the end of the season,
Women’s outerwear 786
when prices have already been
reduced in many places Men’s outerwear 425

Brand Awareness and Bargains Children’s outerwear 623

I am very concerned about 13.7 15.9 Source: Gherzi estimation, CBI 2009
buying the right vvvbrand
I often buy special offers 51.1 45.2 The share of clothing expenditure in all household expenses has
permanently fallen. According to Table 22, published by the BTE
Source: Typologie der Wünsche, Intermedia-Burda, 2009 (German Association of Textile Retailers), German consumers
only spend in 2008 an average of 4.4 % of their purchases on
fashion. Back in 1997 German households used to spend 5.8 % of
their disposable income on clothing.

34 l Outerwear 2010
Table 22: Household spending on clothing [% of total spending]

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008

4.82 4.61 4.42 4.42 4.43 4.43 4.39

Source: German Federal Statistical Office

Table 23: Average retail prices by product categories 3.3 Imports.

2004 2008 CAGR
2004-2008* 3.3.1  Total imports
Table 25 gives an overview of import volume in terms of value and
Suit 312 349 2.84%
volume of the respective product groups into Germany. The value
Coat 216 246 3.30%
of total imports has grown by only 1.7% from 2006 to 2008. Total
Sports jacket 134 174 6.75%
extra European imports grew by 7.5% in the same time period.
Trousers (classic) 89 110 5.44% The total European import share fell from 36.4% in 2006 to 32.8%
Trousers (leisure) 73 90 5.37% in 2008.
Jeans 76 84 2.53%
Sweatshirt 71 79 2.71% In general, imports from non EU countries have increased in most
Jacket 145 201 8.51% product segments, thus indicating more sales opportunities for
Leather jacket 323 350 2.03% manufacturers abroad (including, to a large extent, developing
countries).
Shirt 44 50 3.25%
Polo shirt 28 33 4.19%
The two main knitted product groups imported where t-shirts,
Tie 30 37 5.38% singlet (61.09) and jersey, pullovers, etc. (61.10). From 2006 to
Source: BTE Cologne 2009 – Note: *Compound Annual Growth Rate 2008 the 61.09 product group had a slight decline of 2.1% and
61.10 had only an insignificant growth of under 1%. Men shirt
3.2.6 Price developments of clothing (61.05) and women suits (61.04) had the highest growth with
Between 2007 and the first half of 2009, the prices for all product 28.3% (61.05) and 31.4% (61.04) from 2006 to 2008. The share of
segments in the clothing sector have increased in a lower percen- European imports of knitted outerwear fell from 32.7% in 2006 to
tage as the total cost of living. For more details, see Table 24 30.6% in 2008.

Table 24: Clothing price index relative to national consumer price

index (2007-2009).

Index: 2005 = 100 2007 2008 1st half 2009

Price index clothing 100.7 101.4 102.8

Price index total cost of living 103.9 106.6 107.7

Source: BTE Cologne 2009 – Note: Based on all private households in Germany

Outerwear 2010 l 35
Table 25: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1‘000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, raincoats, anoraks 1‘861 41‘746 2’276 44’170 2’477 43’823
etc. (61.01)
Suits, jackets, outfits, trou- 7’545 89’433 9’829 93’195 10’455 84’631
sers, shorts etc. (61.03)
Shirts (61.05) 18’141 303’649 22’926 368’153 24’658 389’701
Sub Total 27’546 434’828 35’031 505’518 37’590 518’155
Sub Total Extra EU 21’425 274’296 28’914 331’538 32’643 365’237
For women or girls
Coats, raincoats, anoraks 12’165 193’524 12’519 198’127 15’943 243’406
etc. (61.02)
Suits, jackets, outfits, trou- 40’970 614’055 56’711 793’274 61’496 806’679
sers, dresses, skirts etc.
(61.04)
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 17’673 402’579 20’975 462’999 21’695 469’191
Sub Total 70’808 1’210’158 90’204 1’454’400 99’135 1’519’275
Sub Total Extra EU 56’869 796’621 75’257 974’985 86’395 1’082’953
For both genders
T-shirts, singlets etc. 172’574 2’560’691 180’682 2’708’509 169’890 2’505’292
(61.09)
Jersey, pullovers, car- 158’491 2’870’355 143’219 2’660’808 157’014 2’880’060
digans, waistcoats, etc.
(61.10)
Babies’ garments (61.11) 14’503 203’398 15’776 213’803 15’839 217’708
Garments rubberised, imp- 7’545 89’433 9’829 93’195 10’455 84’631
regnated, etc. (61.13)
Gloves, mittens and mitts 12’135 122’208 14’824 134’804 16’540 146’418
(61.16)
Other made-up clothing 6’992 113’302 6’974 107’826 7’230 112’015
accessories (61.17)
Sub Total 372’238 5’959’386 371’304 5’918’945 376’967 5’946’124
Sub Total Extra EU 292’830 4’077’694 290’031 3’991’723 302’779 4’166’553
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits and 12’356 225’973 12’916 239’550 11’573 225’180
swimwear (61.12)
Special garments for pro- 6’163 152’003 7’676 169’399 7’886 169’746
fessional sporting or other
purposes (61.14)
Sub Total 18’519 377’976 20’593 408’949 19’459 394’926
Sub Total Extra EU 13’942 226’662 15’414 241’585 14’244 220’331
TOTAL 489’111 7’982’349 517’132 8’287’811 533’151 8’378’480
TOTAL EXTRA EU 385’065 5’375’273 409’616 5’539’830 436’060 5’835’073
Source: Eurostat 2009

36 l Outerwear 2010
As shown in table 26 the two main woven product groups impor-
ted where suits, jackets, etc. for women (62.04) and suits, jackets
etc. for men (62.03). From 2006 to 2008 the 62.04 product group
had a value decline of 12.1% and 62.03 had an increase of 4.8%.
Shawls, scarves, etc. (62.14) and coats, anoraks, etc. for women
(62.02) had the highest growth with 22.2% (62.14) and 13.9%
(62.14) from 2006 to 2008. The share of European imports of
woven outerwear fell from 39.2% in 2006 to 34.7% in 2008. Total
imports of woven outerwear fell by 0.7% in the same time period

Table 26: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €

For men or boys
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 34’577 587’274 39’208 606’213 39’657 614’840
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, etc. 148’688 2’836’842 159’554 2’946’346 160’250 2’973’935
(62.03)
Shirts (62.05) 42’370 812’348 47’678 847’702 43’024 807’638
Sub Total 225’634 4’236’464 246’440 4’400’261 242’931 4’396’412
Sub Total Extra EU 166’946 2’409’221 192’041 2’660’920 198’140 2’836’084
For women or girls
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 56’211 923’077 62’019 961’399 62’025 1’050’988
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, etc 159’685 3’463’442 159’769 3’442’706 143’015 3’042’514
(62.04)
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 23’293 740’991 25’921 818’891 24’448 800’524
Sub Total 239’189 5’127’510 247’708 5’222’995 229’488 4’894’026
Sub Total Extra EU 183’328 3’209’334 196’706 3’314’724 184’732 3’188’785
For both genders
Babies garments (62.09) 6’964 99’378 6’834 100’099 6’624 96’955
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 28’780 401’021 29’938 397’227 28’751 395’971
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 4’490 103’442 3’992 99’108 5’853 126’385
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 1’180 57’726 1’335 62’186 1’434 59’693
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 3’989 46’028 4’094 37’201 3’575 42’596
Other made-up clothing accessoires (62.17) 4’460 61’754 4’533 64’155 3’878 54’455
Sub Total 49’863 769’348 50’727 759’976 50’113 776’054
Sub Total Extra EU 39’177 526’678 40’693 518’993 40’649 538’155
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 25’245 366’869 25’960 375’094 24’845 355’702
Sub Total 25’245 366’869 25’960 375’094 24’845 355’702
Sub Total Extra EU 19’791 237’536 21’137 247’387 20’666 241’101
TOTAL 539’931 10’500’192 570’834 10’758’326 547’377 10’422’194
TOTAL EXTRA EU 409’242 6’382’769 450’577 6’742’024 444’186 6’804’126

Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 37
3.3.2  Outward Processing Trade (OPT)
A brief analysis of the OPT imports of outerwear into Germany
shows that most of the top 20 OPT countries decreased OPT with
Germany in 2008. Overall OPT decreased by 35% from year 2006
to 2008.
Sri Lanka, Vietnam and Bosnia-Herzegovina have increased their
OPT activities with Germany by 59%, 53% and 43% respectively
from 2006 to 2008.
3.3.3 Largest suppliers of outerwear
Table 28 shows the imports of finished products from major
supplying countries into Germany between 2006 and 2008.
Germany’s main import partners are China followed by Turkey and
Bangladesh. The three leading supplying countries represent 46%
of all clothing imports in 2008. Not less than 67% of all imports
originate from non-EU countries.
Extra European imports by Germany increased by 7.5% from
2006 to 2008. Taking a closer look to the largest extra EU
supplying countries of outerwear (Table 28), the ‘winners’ in terms
of sales increases from 2006 to 2008 are China (+43%), Egypt
(+39%) and Switzerland (+31%). The ‘losers’ are Hong Kong
(-73%), Cambodia (-26%) and Myanmar (-25%)

Table 27: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change 2007 [‘000 €] Change 2008 [‘000 €]
from 2006 from 2007
1 Macedonia 115’634 20% 138’538 7% 148’863
2 Ukraine 185’669 -14% 160’464 -10% 144’647
3 Vietnam 25’579 14% 29’129 35% 39’250
4 China 33’157 24% 41’214 -5% 39’028
5 Tunisia 37’956 8% 41’025 -8% 37’576
6 Hong Kong 32’643 22% 39’778 -7% 37’058
7 Bosnia-Herz. 25’127 35% 33’875 6% 35’891
8 Croatia 25’713 14% 29’195 13% 32’955
9 Indonesia 17’571 26% 22’223 3% 22’929
10 Moldova 24’421 7% 26’108 -17% 21’607
11 Serbia 20’065 33% 26’716 -31% 18’516
12 Sri Lanka 8’786 36% 11’924 17% 14’000
13 Morocco 16’176 0% 16’164 -18% 13’242
14 Belarus 20’517 -43% 11’768 -13% 10’233
15 Thailand 8’703 25% 10’847 -16% 9’129
16 Philippines 8’470 5% 8’912 -3% 8’661
17 Myanmar 10’085 -16% 8’428 -15% 7’145
18 Albania 5’690 -4% 5’479 5% 5’726
19 Russia 16’189 -54% 7’496 -25% 5’626
20 Colombia 5’189 -33% 3’481 -4% 3’358
Total 2’052’996 -33% 1’367’722 -3% 1’333’493

Source: Eurostat 2009

38 l Outerwear 2010
Table 28: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear,
2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change 2007 [‘000 €] Change 2008 [‘000
from 2006 from 2007 €]
1 China 3’531’488 21% 4’277’658 18% 5’052’168
2 Turkey 2’266’329 6% 2’406’256 -10% 2’164’774
3 Bangladesh 1’322’747 -5% 1’252’179 10% 1’382’857
4 India 636’947 -1% 629’546 7% 676’051
5 Indonesia 379’466 -8% 350’770 9% 382’068
6 Vietnam 286’205 12% 320’795 4% 332’125
7 Tunisia 263’559 14% 300’974 5% 316’015
8 Macedonia 250’020 13% 281’857 1% 283’411
9 Pakistan 188’163 2% 191’213 -5% 182’072
10 Hong Kong 649’736 -39% 396’867 -55% 178’285
11 Cambodia 239’220 -28% 173’271 2% 176’215
12 Ukraine 193’167 -14% 166’724 -8% 153’661
13 Switzerland 117’102 43% 167’025 -8% 153’373
14 Thailand 140’748 -16% 118’085 1% 119’368
15 Morocco 125’567 1% 126’818 -16% 106’876
16 Sri Lanka 82’690 17% 96’539 10% 106’336
17 Egypt 68’938 6% 73’048 31% 95’506
18 Croatia 103’687 2% 105’975 -12% 93’526
19 Bosnia and Herzegovina 59’305 8% 64’257 5% 67’460
20 Myanmar 82’290 -16% 68’844 -11% 61’389
Extra-EU 27 11’735’915 4% 12’259’693 3% 12’616’660
Intra-EU 27 6’666’593 1% 6’702’980 -9% 6’105’096
Total 18’402’508 3% 18’962’673 -1% 18’721’757

Source: Eurostat 2009

European imports by Germany decreased by 8.4% from 2006

to 2008. Taking a closer look to the largest intra EU supplying
countries of outerwear (Table 29), the ‘winners’ in terms of sales
increases from 2006 to 2008 are Poland (+34%), France (+13%)
and Belgium (+7%). The ‘losers’ are Romania (-33%), Bulgaria
(-19%) and Italy (-15%).

Outerwear 2010 l 39
Table 29: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change 2007 [‘000 €] Change 2008 [‘000 €]
from 2006 from 2007
1 Netherlands 977’171 10% 1’075’327 -16% 902’396
2 Italy 968’719 -4% 934’172 -12% 824’799
3 Poland 451’965 4% 469’121 29% 606’172
4 Romania 845’030 -24% 641’298 -12% 563’918
5 Belgium 375’729 6% 398’439 0% 400’277
6 Denmark 420’293 2% 428’398 -8% 394’474
7 France 327’427 24% 406’936 -9% 369’416
8 Bulgaria 404’017 -12% 355’342 -8% 325’439
9 United Kingdom 320’485 2% 327’902 -4% 315’168
10 Austria 259’514 10% 285’428 -13% 247’062
Intra EU 27 6’666’593 1% 6’702’980 -9% 6’105’096
Extra EU 27 11’735’915 4% 12’259’693 3% 12’616’660
Total 18’402’508 3% 18’962’673 -1% 18’721’757

Source: Eurostat 2009

3.4 Trade structure. 20 companies accounted for 50% of the German retail-clothing
and textile market.
3.4.1  Developments in the retail trade
The major developments in the German clothing retail structure
Table 30: The most important foreign-owned clothing retailers are as follows:
in Germany
Market shares of specialised clothing multiples, textile discounters
Retailer Country Number of
of origin stores in and non-specialists like hyper-, supermarkets, discounters, variety
Germany
stores and also the coffee shop chain Tchibo, have increased in
Hennes & Mauritz Sweden 340 the outerwear sector. This has negatively affected specialized
Vögele Switzerland 326 independents and department stores.
Miss Etam France 81
Orsay (Mulliez Group) Germany (France) 260 According to BTE, the total number of German outlets with clothing
Pimkie (Mulliez Group) Germany (France) 170 in their assortment is 45’000. The number of independent clothing
Benetton Italy 212 stores is estimated at 26’500, of which 7’000 are specialised in
Zara (Inditex) Spain 65 women’s wear, 2’000 in men’s wear, 15’000 have a broader range
and the remaining part is specialised in another product group.
Mango Spain 52
Around 40% of the independent retailers are member of a buying
M&S Mode Netherlands 62
corporation. In no other European country, with the exception
Arsana Turkey 230
of the Netherlands, do the buying organisations also act as
Zeeman Netherlands 245 independent retailers as they do in Germany. The most important
Source: Gherzi analysis, CBI buying corporations are Ardek (http://www.ardek.de) which
specializes in babies’ and children's products including clothing
and has 350 members with 500 outlets; and Katag-abz (http://

40 l Outerwear 2010
www.katag.net) which operates through 364 members with 1’200 Table 31: Major German-based chains selling outerwear
outlets. Other buying groups are Unitex (http://www.unitex-gmbh. (2008/2009)
de) with 500 members; Sütegro (http://www.suetegro.de) which
Retail chain Parent company Number of
has 130 members and is specialized in women’s wear. Sütegro stores in
became the fashion and style division of the EK-Service group. Germany
General
Most of the sport shops are organisations of independent retailers, C&A C&A 303
many of them being organised in (international) co-operations like P&C P&C West and P&C Nord 88
Intersport (1’462 outlets; http://www.intersport.com) and Sport Sinn Leffers WHG 24
2000 (770 members with 1’130 outlets; http://www.sport2000.de). Wöhrl Wöhrl 40
K+L Ruppert K+L Ruppert 61
Table 31 gives an overview of the important German chains, Strauss Innovation Strauss Innovation 98
operating in Germany. Some remarks regarding this overview: Esprit Esprit Europe 140
Women
• Orsay is owned by the French Muliez Group. Since the with
Bonita Mode Bonita Group 732
drawal of Orsay from the French market, this company can be
Ulla Popken Popken Group 186
considered as German-based.
Women Store C&A 17
Orsay Mulliez Group (France) 260
• Since 1997, the European part of the Esprit business was
acquired by the Hong Kong division of Esprit Holding. Men
Headquarters of Esprit Europe is established in Germany, from Pohland Pohland 12
which the wholesale and retail activities are managed. NIC Bonita Group 60
Children
• The number of children’s wear chains and men’s wear chains is Kids Stores C&A 105
very limited in Germany. Leisure
New Yorker Friedrich Knapp 299
• Leading clothing multiple C&A sells clothing for the whole family Mister Lady Western Store Beran 204
and operates mainly in the middle of the market, but is also Jeans Fritz Schaeffer-Kuehn 191
active in both the upper and the lower price brackets. Other
Sports
C&A formula are Kids Stores and Women Stores (mostly active
Runners Point Hannover Finanz 102
in Germany). The market share of C&A came under pressure,
Discounters
besides increasing competition from non-specialists, since the
Ernsting’s Family Ernsting Familie 1’350
entrance and strong expansion of foreign general clothing chains
Takko Takko Holding 841
like Hennes & Mauritz, Vögele and Zara.
KiK Tengelmann-Gruppe 2’039
Adler Metro Group 107
NKD Daun & Cie. 1’000
Source: CBI

Outerwear 2010 l 41
Textile discounters sell family clothing, sportswear, body wear Many textiles, including knitted and woven outerwear, can increa-
and household textiles, but sometimes also other product groups. singly be found in food discounters, super- and hypermarkets.
They buy in large quantities and avoid middlemen, in order to get
low-priced goods in the shops quickly. All discounters mentioned
increased strongly in turnover and in number of outlets in recent
years; they compete, among others, with the Dutch discount chain
Zeeman (239 stores in Germany).

Table 32: Other outerwear selling branches in Germany

Retail chain Web site Number of stores in Germany

Food discounters
Aldi Nord www.aldi-essen.de 2’500
Aldi Süd www.aldi-sued.de 1’700
Lidl www.lidl.de 2’950
Netto www.netto-online.de 1’442
Penny www.penny.de 2’000
Plus www.plus.de 2’950
Super- and hypermarkets
Real www.metrogroup.de 343
Kaufland/Kaufmarkt www.kaufland.de 750
Tengelmann www.tengelmann.de 3’379
Edeka (Spar, Netto, etc.) www.edeka.de 12’000
Non-specialized stores
Metro C+C www.metro-cc.de 122
Fegro / Selgros www.fegro-selgros.de 44
Tchibo www.tchibo.com 900

Source: CBI

According to CBI the actual trends are as follows:

• Market conditions have become more difficult and the • Ongoing expansion by many of the leading chains to develop
competitive pressure is increasing. This is due to the expansion smaller store formats, so as to create a more specialised
of powerful foreign companies in the German market and boutique character (for instance H&M, C&A and Zara).
market activities by companies from outside the clothing sector.
On the other side, many German retail chains have expanded • Stronger ranges of complementary accessories and footwear.
their activities abroad.
• Clothing specialised multiples have been the largest exponents
• The non-food offer in the grocery sector is increasing in of the fast-fashion phenomenon, which has encouraged more
Germany. The hypermarket format, with its strong non-food frequent purchasing.
component, plays an increasingly important role. However,
it should be noted that these companies operate more in
low-priced incidental offers than in a fixed/permanent outerwear
assortment.

42 l Outerwear 2010
3.4.2 Leading retailers
Table 33 gives an excellent overview of the structure and the
development of the largest German textile retailers. This analysis
was carried out by the renowned trade magazine Textilwirtschaft/
Frankfurt on an annual basis

Table 33: Major German textile retailers 2008 / 2007

Position Retailer Chain Turnover 2008 [mn €] Turnover 2007 [mn €] Change [%]
1 Arcandor 4’116 4’170 -1.3%
2 Otto 3’480 3’406 2.2%
3 C&A 2’954 2’933 0.7%
4 Metro 2’539 3’077 -17.5%
5 H&M 2’476 2’395 3.4%
6 Tengelmann 1’568 1’498 4.7%
7 P&C, Düsseldorf 1’343 1’351 -0.6%
8 Aldi-Gruppe 1’071 1’100 -2.6%
9 Lidl 1’029 1’050 -2.0%
10 Tchibo 931 1’023 -9.0%
11 Esprit 800 740 8.1%
12 Ersting’s Family 676 550 22.9%
13 New Yorker 622 603 3.2%
14 Takko 560 566 -1.1%
15 Klingel 525 536 -2.1%
16 NKD 498 498 0.0%
17 Adler 464 515 -9.9%
18 Bonita 443 428 3.5%
19 Sinn Leffers 430 474 -9.3%
20 P&C, Hamburg 420 420 0.0%

Source: Textilwirtschaft

Outerwear 2010 l 43
3.4.3  Distribution channels 3.4.3.1  Retailers
The structure of the textile / clothing retail market can also be split 3.4.3.1.1  General clothing retail
into two major groups: “specialised retailers” and “larger forms of Independent retailers do not usually buy directly from developing
textile retail”. For more details, see Table 34. countries. With approximately 43'000 textile and clothing shops
all over Germany, they still play an important role in the market. A
Table 34: Textile and clothing retail channels by market share, high percentage of the retailers are members of buying associa-
2006 - 2008 tions that takes over certain functions from the members such as
purchasing, marketing, logistics etc.
Retail channel 2006 2007 2008
General clothing retail 38.0 39.3 39.5
The most important department stores are C&A (435)*, H&M
Men clothing retail 2.6 2.6 2.7
(339)*, P&C West and Anson’s Menswear (88)* and P&C North
Women clothing retail 7.6 7.6 7.6 (25)*, Sinn Leffers (47)*, K+L Ruppert (65)*, C. Vögele (326)* and
Children clothing retail 0.5 0.6 0.5 Wöhrl (36)*. New Yorker with 302 outlets is the largest jeans and
Others 0.2 0.2 0.2 sportswear chain. The major women's wear multiples are BiBa
Total general clothing retail 48.9 50.3 50.5 (250)* and Appelrath_ Cüpper (14)*, part of the Douglas Group,
Dowry, bedding 2.2 2.2 2.3 Orsay from France (242)*, Bonita (800)* and Ulla Popken for large
Carpet, drape 3.2 3.2 3.2 sizes (187)*. Menswear multiples are NIC (41)* (owned by Bonita)
Other 0.8 0.8 0.7 and Pohland (8)*.
Total general textile retail 6.2 6.2 6.2
Total textile and clothing 55.1 56.5 56.7 * number of outlets
specialised retail
Department stores 12.2 11.9 11.7 Market share: 48.9% in 2008
Sports shops 2.5 2.5 2.6 Trend: Slightly increasing (2006 = 50.5%)
Home shopping companies 13.5 12.8 12.9
3.4.3.1.2  Department stores
Super- and Hypermarkets 13.7 13.4 13.1
The major department stores are Karstadt with 120 outlets (since
Other 3.0 2.9 3.0
1st December 2009 in chapter 11) and Galleria Kaufhof with 113
Total non textile or clothing 44.9 43.5 43.3 stores, belonging to the Metro group. Galleria Kaufhof's turnover
specialised retail declined constantly from € 3.6 bn in 2006 to € 3.5 bn in 2008.
Grand Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 Another example is Woolworth with 161 outlets.
Source: BTE
Market share: 11.7% in 2008
Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 12.2%)

3.4.3.1.3  Sport shops
The turnover of clothing in sports shops is influenced by the unpre-
dictable weather, shorter product life cycles, consumer behaviour
and continued cost and price pressures. In recent years sports
shops have developed themselves from pure or predominant pro-
viders of winter clothing towards providers with a large range of for
all weather gears, with emphasis on outdoor and lifestyle.

Market share: 2.6% in 2008

Trend: Slightly increasing (2006 = 2.5%)

44 l Outerwear 2010
3.4.3.1.4  Home shopping companies
Quelle, one of the leading home shopping companies filed chapter
11 in 2009. The Otto Group (another leading home shopping com-
pany) bought the Quelle brand. This deal still has to be approved
by the FTC (Federal Trade Commission).
53.3% of the total home shopping turnover in 2009 was generated
by internet sales.
Market share: 12.9% in 2008
Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 13.5%)
3.4.3.1.5  Super- and hypermarkets
The main super- and hypermarkets selling clothing are: Metro,
Aldi, Edeka, Tengelmann, Rewe, Lidl, Tchibo, and Globus. The
clothing sold in those markets is mainly restricted to clothing
accessories such as socks, caps, scarves and so on, but increas-
ingly includes T-shirts, shirts, jeans etc. Aldi and Lidl in particular
offer more and more fashion products alongside their food- and
non-food assortment.
Market share: 13.1% in 2008
Trend: Slightly decreasing (2006 = 13.7%)
3.4.3.1.6  Others (FOC)
Factory Outlet Centres are becoming very popular in Germany.
So far 11 FOCs have been built with a total surface of 120'000
m2. Further 11 FOC's with a total surface of about 120'000 m2 will
soon be built.
3.4.3.2  Sales intermediaries
3.4.3.2.1  Clothing manufacturers
Manufacturing companies play a pivotal role in the clothing
distribution system in Germany. Most of the German clothing
brands work in a dual way: On the one hand they buy directly from
developing countries in the Far and Middle East on a full import
basis (finished products). On the other hand, Germany is by far
the largest European buyer of clothing on outsourcing basis (OPT
business). Due to its proximity to Eastern European countries,
Germany was the ‘pioneer’ country in outsourcing production in
the neighbouring countries to the East. The clothing industry has
been shrinking since the beginning of the nineties, to the point
where now only the ‘fittest’ have survived. Larger companies such
as TOM TAILOR, CARLO COLUCCI, S. OLIVER, STREET ONE
and so on (also) sell through their own outlets. These brands are
normally positioned in the mid- to upper market segment. The
tendency towards self-retailing by clothing brands/manufacturers
has increased and taken on different forms such as concessions,
shop-within- the-shop, sales corners in department stores and
own mono-brand shops.
3.4.3.2.2  Central buying associations
55% of all independent clothing retailers in Germany are members
of a buying association. These figures underline the significant role
of buying associations for the majority of specialised independent
retailers. The buying policy is similar to that of multiple stores (buy-
ing directly or through buying agents abroad). They operate in the
mid- to upper market segment. The leading associations are Katag
/ abz in Bielefeld and Unitex in Neu-Ulm. Some, such as Ardek
in Hofheim / Wallau specialise in children's wear, or Intersport in
Munich specialising in active sports- and hardware. The German
buying associations also have members from the Netherlands,
Belgium, Austria and Switzerland.
3.4.3.2.3  Sales agents
Sales agents for clothing in Germany play a major role in the
market, especially for the renowned clothing brands. The more
reputable agents are members of the Central Association of Ger-
man Sales Agents (CDH) in Cologne. They often have their own
showrooms in fashion centres of major German cities such as
Neuss / Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Munich and so on. Only
strong manufacturers from non- European countries with a market
oriented range and an excellent service might find the right partner
in the CDH News published monthly.
3.4.3.2.4  Importers / wholesalers
It is estimated that there are over 1'000 importers / wholesalers
for clothing in Germany. They range from very small units run by
the owner, up to larger companies with more than 100 employees
worldwide such as Miles, Jebsen & Jessen, Nickel etc. They often
operate through their buying offices in the Far East, which take
over the order and control function on the ‘sourcing spot’. The
importers / wholesalers have an important role, they have excel-
lent know-how about worldwide sourcing and supply directly to all
kinds of retailers in Germany and the neighbouring countries. The
most reputable importers are members of the Association of non-
food importers (VFI) in Hamburg.
Outerwear 2010 l 45
3.5 German fashion trade fairs.
For women's wear, the main event not only for Europe but also
worldwide is the CPD Fashion Fair in Düsseldorf, which is organ-
ised twice per year (February and July) by the IGEDO company.
Approximately 44'000 visitors and around 1'500 international
exhibitors attend per event. The fair organisers have grouped the
fair in different ‘theme worlds’ (Gallery, Italian Suite, Boutique,
Concept II, Modern Essentials, Decorate, Special Luxury Women's
Wear, Special Big is Beautiful). For manufacturers from emerging
or developing countries the so called ‘Global Fashion’ (a fair within
the fair) of the CPD in Düsseldorf is generally a good choice, since
many buyers from Germany, Belgium, Luxemburg, Netherlands
as well as to a certain extent from Austria and Switzerland tend
to visit this fair when they look for new suppliers. Leading fashion
fairs have suffered from the market developments. Nevertheless,
for ‘mainstream’ fashion manufacturers from developing countries,
the German clothing fairs are still a very good choice (from a com-
mercial point of view). For the active sportswear market (including
footwear and sports equipment), which is partially covered by the
products specified for this study, the ISPO Fair in Munich plays a
leading role for Germany and Europe. Approximately 1'600 exhibi-
tors from more than 40 countries show their products in February
and July each year. There have been tremendous changes and
challenges for the German textile and clothing fairs since 2000
and this trend can be expected to continue in the next few years.
The shift in the ‘classical’ menswear segment from Cologne to
Düsseldorf was the initial factor. Some two years back many reput-
ed jeans and sportswear brands moved to the ‘Bread and Butter’
in Berlin. The fair organisers are permanently working on develop-
ing the fair structure and services: the idea being that the visitor
should have the most efficient and convenient way to become
informed about fashion trends and to buy the clothing they require.
In most clothing segments, from a commercial point of view, the
German fairs still have the leading position within Europe although
some other fairs (particularly in Italy) have taken over the ‘fashion
leadership’. Among German retailers, the fairs mentioned above
are regarded as ‘information platform No. 1’ to a very large extent.

Table 35: German fashion trade fairs 2010

Trade fair Date Location

Spirit of Fashion 20. - 22.01.2010 Berlin
MMC Kids Collections Kinder Mode Messe 05. - 07.02.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig
Premium Order Düsseldorf 06. - 09.02.2010 Düsseldorf
ISPO Winter 07. - 10.02.2010 Munich
CPD incl. Global Fashion 07. - 09.02.2010 Düsseldorf
MMC Mitteldeutsche Mode Messe 13. - 15.02.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig
MMC Fashion Update 07. - 09.03.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig
Sport Source Europe 07. - 10.02.2010 Munich
Premium Order München 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich
Munich Fashion Women 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich
In Fashion Munich 26. - 01.03.2010 Munich
Modatex Fashion Fair 03. - 06.07.2010 Essen
Bread and Butter 07. - 09.07.2010 Berlin
MMC Fashion Start 11. - 13.07.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig
CPD incl. Global Fashion 25. - 27.07.2010 Düsseldorf
MMC Kids Collections 30. - 01.08.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig
MMC Mitteldeutsche Mode Messe 07. - 09.08.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig
MMC Fashion Update 05. - 07.09.2010 Schkeuditz / Leipzig
Kind + Jugend, Internationale Kinder- und Jugend- Messe 16. - 19.09.2010 Köln
Import Shop Berlin 10. - 14.11.2010 Berlin
Imotex Open all year Neuss
Source: AUMA

46 l Outerwear 2010
3.6 List of major buyers in Germany.
Clothing chain stores
Bonita Gefühl für Mode
GmbH & Co. KG
Kesseldorfer Rott 39
D - 46499 Hamminkeln
Tel.: +49 – 2852 – 9500
Fax: +49 – 2852 – 950100
info@bonita.de
www.bonita.de
E. Breuninger GmbH & Co.
Marktstr. 1 – 3
D - 70173 Stuttgart
Tel.: +49 – 711 – 211-0
Fax: +49 – 711 – 211-3053
kontakt@breuninger.de
www.breuninger.de
C&A Mode KG
Wanheimer Straße 70
40468 Düsseldorf
Tel.: +49 – 211 – 98720
service@shop-CundA.de
www.cunda.de
Appelrath-Cüpper
Zeppelinstrasse 2
D - 50667 Köln
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 20 59 90
info@appelrath-cuepper.de
www.appelrath-cuepper.de
Pohland-Herrenkleidung
GmbH & Co. KG
Brückenstraße 17
D - 50677 Köln
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 270497 – 0
Fax: +49 – 221 – 270497 – 39
info@pohland.de
www.pohland.de
Product range: Esprit Europe GmbH
Women‘s wear Esprit-Allee
Price segment: D-40882 Ratingen
Lower to mid level Tel.: +49 – 2102 – 123 – 0
Number of outlets: 732 Fax: +49 – 2102 – 123 – 45
– 100
info@esprit.com
www.esprit.com
Product range:
Women’s, men’s and Hettlage + Fischer GmbH
children’s wear Industriestraße 1
Price segment: D - 48644 Coesfeld-Lette
Upper level Tel.: +49 – 2546 9345 – 0
Number of outlets: 10 Fax: +49 – 2546 9345 – 79
info@hettlage-fischer.com
www.hettlage-fischer.de
Product range:
Women’s, men’s and H&M Hennes & Mauritz
children’ s wear GmbH
Price segment: Spitalerstrasse 12
Lower to mid level D - 20095 Hamburg
Number of outlets: 303 Tel: +49 – 40 – 350 95 50
www.hm.com
Product range:
Women’s wear Orsay GmbH
Price segment: Im Lossenfeld 12
Mid to upper level D - 77731 Willstätt-Sand
Number of outlets: 14 Tel.: +49 – 7852 – 910 – 0
Note: belongs to Douglas Fax +49 – 7852 – 910 - 909
Holding AG info@orsay.com
www.orsay.com
Peek & Cloppenburg KG
Product range: Men’s wear Berliner Allee 2
Price segment: D - 40212 Düsseldorf
Mid to upper level Tel.: +49 – 211 – 3662 – 0
Number of outlets: 18 Fax: +49 – 211 – 3662 – 697
Note: belongs to Douglas dialog@peekundcloppenburg.
Holding AG de
www.peekundcloppenburg.de
http://b2b.peek-und-cloppen-
burg.de/
Product range: Women’s,
men’s and children’s wear
Price segment:
Upper level
Number of outlets:
800 directly managed
retail stores and over
6,000 wholesale outlets
worldwide
Product range:
Ladies, men’s and
children’s wear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 2
Product range: Women’s,
men’s and
children’s wear
Price segment: Lower level
Number of outlets: 339
Product range: Women’s
wear
Price segment: Lower to
mid level
Number of outlets: 260
Note: belongs to Mulliez
Group
Product range: Ladies
men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment: Upper level
Number of outlets: 26
Outerwear 2010 l 47
Clothing chain stores
SinnLeffers AG
Batheyer Str. 115 – 117
D - 58099 Hagen
Tel.: +49 – 2331 – 620 – 0
Fax: +49 – 2331 – 620 – 100
info@sinnleffers.de
www.sinnleffers.de
s.Oliver Bernd Freier GmbH
& Co. KG
s.Oliver Straße 1
D - 97228 Rottendorf
Tel.: +49 – 93 02 / 3 09 – 0
Fax: +49 – 93 02 / 3 09 – 473
info@soliver.de
onlineshop@soliver.com
www.soliver.de
Takko Holding GmbH
Alfred Krupp Str. 21
D - 48291 Telgte
Tel.: +49 – 2504 – 923 – 0
Fax: +49 – 2504 – 923 – 277
info@takko.de
www.takko.de
Tchibo GmbH
Überseering 18
D - 22297 Hamburg
Tel.: +49 – 40 – 6387 – 2876
Fax: +49 – 40 – 6387 – 2530
info@tchibo.com
www.tchibo.de
Charles Vögele Deutschland
GmbH
Zeppelinstrasse 2-8
72488 Sigmaringen
Tel.: +49 – 7571 723 0
Fax +49 – 7571 723 171
kundendienst.de@charles-
voegele.com
www.voegele-mode.de
48 l Outerwear 2010
Product range:
Ladies men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 24
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of owned stores:
155
Number of stores with
partners: 370
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s and
Childrenswear Department stores (selection)
(and Accessoires, Jewelry)
Price segment: Lower level
Number of outlets:
920 Germany
(1’400 worldwide)
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment: Lower level
Number of outlets:
over 1000
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid level
Number of outlets: 352
Wehmeyer Lifestyle GmbH Product range:
Rotter Bruch 17 Ladies’ and menswear
D - 52068 Aachen Price segment:
Tel.: +49 – 2 41 / 51 97 – 0 Lower to mid level
Fax: +49 – 241 51 97 107 Number of outlets: 44
www.wehmeyer.com
www.w-lifestyle.de
kundenbetreuung@
wehmeyer.com
Rudolf Wöhrl AG Product range:
Lina-Amman-Str. 10 Ladies’, men’s and
D - 90471 Nürnberg childrenswear
Tel.: +49 – 911 – 8121 – 0 Price segment:
Fax: +49 – 911 – 8121 – 100 Upper level
info@woehrl.de (brands mainly)
www.woehrl.de Number of outlets: 40
Zara Product range:
Moenckebergstrasse, 10 Ladies’ and
D - 20095 Hamburg menswear
Tel.: +49 – 40 3 030 97 28 Price segment:
Fax: +49 – 40 30 96 22 40 Lower to mid level
www.zara.de Number of outlets: 30
Deutsche Woolworth GmbH Product range:
Lyoner Str. 52 Ladies’, men’s and
D - 60528 Frankfurt a.M. childrenswear
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 6601 – 1 Price segment:
Fax +49 – 69 – 6601 – 2399 Lower level
info@woolworth.de Number of outlets:
www.woolworth.de 161 in Germany
Metro AG Product range:
Schlüterstraße 1 Ladies’, men’s,
D - 40235 Düsseldorf childrenswear and
Tel.: +49 211 6886 10 51 or sportswear
19 36 Price segment:
Fax: +49 211 6886 37 59 Mid to upper level
kontakt@metro.de Number of outlets:
www.metro-ag.de Real/Extra 560,
www.metrogroup.de Kaufhof 141 in Germany
www.investorrelations@metro.de

Department stores (selection)
Kaufhof Warenhaus AG
Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1
D - 50676 Köln
Tel.: +49 02 21 223 55 95
Fax: +49 02 21 223 55 99
www.galeria-kaufhof.de
Callcenter Tel:
+49 01805 17 25 17
Callcenter Fax:
+49 01805 17 35 17
service@galeria-kaufhof.de
Strauss Innovation GmbH &
Co. KG
Raiffeisenstr. 15-18
D - 40764 Langenfeld
Tel.: +49 - 2173 - 99 00 01
Fax +49 - 2173 - 99 23 90
fragenundantworten@
strauss-innovation.de
gutesundschlechtes@
strauss-innovation.de
www.strauss-innovation.de
Wal-Mart Germany GmbH &
Co. KG
Friedrich-Engels-Allee 28
D-42103 Wuppertal
Tel: +49 – 202 – 2829 – 0
Fax: +49 – 202 – 2829 – 1724
kontakt@wal-mart.com
www.walmart.de
and wholesalers / importers
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 127
Note: Belongs to Metro AG
Product range:
Ladies’ and menswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid level
Number of outlets: 93
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s, childrens-
wear and sportswear
Price segment:
Lower level (for clothing)
Number of outlets: 88
Clothing manufacturers (importing)
Heinrich Nickel Gmbh &
Co.Kg
Wilhelm-Bergner-Str. 10
D - 21509 Glinde
Tel.: +49(0)40 7270 241
Fax: +49(0)40 7270 224
www.nickel-sportswear.com
office@nickel-sportswear.com
APRIORI Textilvertriebs
GmbH
Harkortstr. 24
D - 48163 Münster
Tel.: +49 (0)251 7135-0
Fax: +49 (0)251 7135-837
dialog@apriori-fashion.de
www.apriori-fashion.de
ara Shoes AG
Zur Schlenkhecke 4
D – 40764 Langenfeld
Tel.: +49 – 2173 105 0
Fax: +49 – 2173 105 108
www.ara-moden.de
info@ara-shoes.de
Bay City Textilhandels &
Co.KG
An‘n Slagboom 7
Postfach 3165
D-22848 Norderstedt
Tel.: +49 (40) 534 13 300
Fax: +49 (40) 534 13 301
baycity@fashioncenter.net
www.fashioncenter.net/
baycity
www.bay-city.de
F.W. Brinkmann GmbH
Waltgeristraße 1-5
32049 Herford
Tel: +49 (0) 52 21 / 88 40
Fax: +49 (0) 52 21 / 88 42 81
info@bugatti.de
www.bugatti.de
Importer of men’s, ladies
and
children’s sportswear
Wholesaler of ladies wear
Number of owned stores:
125
Belongs 100% to:
PRIMERA GmbH & Co.
Manufacturer of classic
women and men shoes
Over 500 shops worldwide,
in 2008 sold 7 mn. Shoes
in over 50 countries
(CMT business mainly)
Importer for jeans, casual
and active sportswear
founded: 1975 and belongs
to Schmid Gruppe
License Contract with
­Unilever (Lable: Langnese)
Manufacturer of classic
men’s and
sportswear (mainly CMT
business –
brand orientated)
Forecast: 150 new shops
to be open (average / year:
15 shops)
Outerwear 2010 l 49
Clothing manufacturers (importing)
and wholesalers / importers
Bültel Bekleidungswerke
GmbH
Rheiner Str. 28
D - 48499 Salzbergen
Tel.: +49 – 5976 – 270
Fax: +49 – 5976 – 27410
www.bueltel.com
info@bueltel.com
elho Business & Sport Ver-
triebs GmbH
Bronkhorstr. 56 / 2. Etage
D – 47137 Duisburg
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 42091 – 0
Fax: +49 – 89 – 42091 – 213
www.elho.de
otto.schwarz@elho.de
Frontline GmbH
Hinüberstraße 4A
30175 Hannover
Tel.: +49 – 4105 – 6105 – 0
Fax: +49 – 4105 – 6105 – 64
www.frontline.de
Gardeur GmbH
Alsstraße 155
D - 41063 Mönchengladbach
Tel.: +49 – 2161 – 816 – 0
Fax: +49 – 2161 – 183833
www.gardeur.com
info@gardeur.de
Hucke AG
Ravensberger Str. 41
D - 32312 Lübbecke
Tel.: +49 – 5741 – 364 – 0
Fax: +49 – 5741 – 364 – 414
www.hucke.de
50 l Outerwear 2010
Mail order companies
Manufacturer of men’s
sportswear
Founded: 1964
Manufacturer of active and
casual
sportswear (full import and
CMT)
Distributor of garments of
all kinds
Manufacturer of classic
ladies’ and menswear
specialised in trousers
(CMT business – brand
oriented)
Gardeur GmbH, founded
in 1920, has recently been
acquired by HSH Private
Equity (Hamburg)
Multi Brand manufacturer
of ladies’, men’s and
­childrenswear (full import
and CMT)
Hucke Fashion GmbH,
­Königsmühle u. R. Over-
meyer Bekleidungs GmbH
Alba Moda Gmbh
Daimlerstr. 13
D - 32108 Bad Salzuflen
Tel.: +49 – (0) 180 540 55
Fax: +49 – (0) 180 540 59 99
www.albaModa.de
Baur Versand (GmbH & Co.
KG)
Bahnhofstraße 10
96224 Burgkunstadt
Tel.: +49 – 0 95 72 - 91 0
www.baur.de
service@baur.de
Bruno Bader Gmbh + Co Kg
Maximilianstraße 48
D - 75172 Pforzheim
Tel.: +49 – 180 – 5 222 111
Fax: +49 – 180 – 5 222 777
www.bader.de
service@bader.de
Cyrillus Deutschland Gmbh
Sonneaue 69
D - 47804 Krefeld
Tel.: +49 – 180 5 095 095
Fax: +49 – 180 5 000 955
www.cyrillus.de
mailbox2@cyrillus.com
Heinrich Heine Gmbh
Windeckstr. 15
D - 76135 Karlsruhe
Tel.: +49 – (0) 180 – 536 36
Fax: +49 – (0) 180 - 5 524 524
Tel. Kundenbetreuung:
+49 (0) 180 - 522 66
www.heine.de
service@heine.de
Versandhaus Robert Klingel
Sachsenstr. 23
D - 75177 Pforzheim
Tel.: +49 – 0180 53 200
Fax:+49 – 0180 530 56 70
www.klingel.de
service@klingel.de
Product range:
Ladies’ and menswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Note: Fashion orientated
(not young fashion)
Product range: All kinds
of goods, ladies’, men’s,
childrenswear
Price segment:
Mid market level
Note: one of the larger
mail-order companies
Product range: All kinds
of goods, ladies’, men’s,
childrenswear
Price segment:
Mid market level
Note: one of the larger
mail-order companies
Product range: Ladies’,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment: Mid level
Note: Niche market
­mail-order house
Products:
Home textiles, furniture,
accessories, ladies’,
menswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Note: more classic styles
Product range: All kinds of
goods, ladies’, men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment: Mid level
Mail order companies
Neckermann Versand AG
Hanauer Landstraße 360
D - 60386 Frankfurt am Main
Tel.: +49 – 180 55414
www.neckermann.de
service@neckermann.de
Otto (GmbH & Co KG)
Wandsbeker Straße 3-7
D - 22172 Hamburg
OTTO-Hotline: 0180 - 5 30
30Hotline: +49 (0) 180 530 30
Tel.: +49 40 - 64 61 - 0
Fax: +49 40 - 64 61 - 85 71OT-
TO-Hotline: 0180 - 5 30 30
www.otto.de
service@otto.de
Sport Scheck GmbH
Sendlinger Str. 6
D - 80331 München
Tel: +49 89 2166-0
Fax: +49 89 2166-1420
Tel. Kundenbetreuung:
Tel.: +49 – 180 55050*
Fax: +49 – 180 55051*
www.sportscheck.com
filiale_muenchen@sport-
scheck.com
Jeans-, sportswear and young fashion
Western Store Beran
Mister-Lady GmbH
Sprottauer Str. 4 – 8
D - 90475 Nürnberg
Tel.: +49 – 911 – 984 760
Fax: +49 – 911 – 984 73 04
www.wsberan.de
Diesel Deutschland Gmbh
Kasernenstr. 1
D - 40213 Düsseldorf
Tel.: +49 211 8622 966
www.diesel.com
Product range: All kinds
of goods, ladies’, men’s,
childrenswear
Price segment:
Mid market level
Note: one of the larger
mail-order companies
Product range: Ladies’,
men’s and hildrenswear
and other goods
Price segment:
Lower to mid level
Note: Largest mail order
house in the orld selling
worldwide
Product range: All kinds of
goods, women’s and
children’ wear, sportswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Product range: Jeans and
sportswear, young fashion
Price segment:
Lower to mid level
Number of outlets: 200
Product range:
Jeans, young fashion
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 11
Jeans Palast Görgens
GmbH
Schildergasse 55
D - 50667 Köln
Tel.: +49 221 – 257 86 49
Fax: +49 221 – 258 85 51
jeans-palast-koeln@goergens-
gruppe.de
http://filialnetz.guna.de/filial-
netz/koeln/jeanspalast/
Jeans Fritz
Handelsgesellschaft für
Mode mbH
Tengerner Straße 143
D - 32609 Hüllhorst
Tel.: +49 (0) 5744 512 – 0
Fax: +49 (0) 5744 512 – 111
www.jeans-fritz.de
New Yorker S.H.K Jeans
GmbH
Hansestraße 48
D - 38112 Braunschweig
Tel.: +49 – 531 – 2135 – 0
Fax: +49 – 531 – 2135 – 187
www.newyorker.de
smattern@newyorker.de
(Produktanfragen & Expan-
sion)
HIS TEXTIL GmbH
Bellevue 7
D - 22301
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 329070
Fax: +49 – 89 – 32907108
www.his-jeans.de
www.info@his-jeans.com
MUSTANG Jeans GmbH &
Co.KG
P.O. Box 1264
D – 74642 Künzelsau
Tel.: +49 – 7940 – 125 – 0
Fax: +49 – 7940 – 125 – 102
www.mustang.de
info@mustang.de
Product range:
Jeans, young fashion
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 53
Product range:
Jeans, leisurewear
Price segment: Mid level
Number of outlets: 237
Product range:
Price segment: Mid level
Number of outlets: 298
Product range: Jeans
Price segment :
Mid to upper level
Note: Manufacturer +
clothing chain
Product range:
Jeans and sportswear
Price segment :
Mid to upper level
Note: Manufacturer +
clothing chain
Number of outlets: 970
(an present in over 31
countries worldwide)
Outerwear 2010 l 51
Buying associations
ARDEK eG (proBABY c/o)
Robert Bosch Str. 9
D - 65719 Hofheim-Wallau
Tel.: +49 – 6122 – 72 – 0
Fax: +49 – 6122 – 72338
www.ardek.de
info@ardek.de
www.probaby.de
info@probaby.de
INTERSPORT Deutschland eG
Wannenäckerstr. 50
D - 74078 Heilbronn
Tel.: +49 – 7131 – 288 – 0
Fax: +49 – 7131 – 21257
www.intersport.com
contact@intersport.com
KATAG AG
Stralsunder Str. 5
D - 33605 Bielefeld
Tel.: +49 – 521 – 292 – 0
Fax: +49 – 521 – 292 – 101
www katag.net
www.info@katag.de
Kurtenbach Gbmh & Co. Kg
Offheimer Weg 45
D - 65549 Limburg
Tel.: +49 – 6431 – 503 – 0
Fax: +49 – 6431 – 503 – 201
www.mut-kurtenbach.de
Geschäftsleitung@Kurtenbach.de
52 l Outerwear 2010
Product range: Products
for children, childrens-
wear, pro-BABY-Line /
Products for babies (100
Member companies)
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Member companies:
over than 500
Product range:
(Active) sportswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Member companies:
1,450
Note: Market leader for
active sportswear
Product range:
Men’s, ladies’ and
childrenswear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Member companies:
1’200
Product range:
All kinds of garments
Price segment:
Lower level
Member companies:
2000
4. Italy.
4.1 General economic situation.
Italy’s current population is 60 million; the country has developed
to an economic level similar to that of countries such as Germany,
France or United Kingdom. Before 1945, Italy was quite rural and
today the country is still characterised by an agricultural South
with an unemployment rate of 13.2% and a few big state-owned
companies. On the other hand, the ‘rich’ North has a favourable
economic climate and many successful private companies.
In 2009 Italy faced a difficult period with a GDP real growth rate
of -4.5%. The economy was in a sharp recession, mainly because
of external developments linked to the global financial crisis, and
there was great uncertainty about the strength and timing of the
recovery. Italian exports plummeted 26% in 2008, the largest drop
since records began in 1991. Despite a relatively healthy banking
system Italy seems particularly sensitive to both the credit tighten-
ing which has occurred in line with that in other countries and the
weakness in external demand. This sensitivity has probably been
accentuated both by the poor productivity and aggregate profit-
ability performance of the economy over the past decade or more,
and by the weak underlying fiscal situation. An array of budget
neutral measures have been taken in the short term, but economic
performance must be enhanced over the longer term by both mac-
roeconomic and structural policy reforms.
4.2 The market for outerwear.
4.2.1  Market size
Italy is the third largest clothing market in Europe, behind Germany
and the UK, and therefore plays a major role in the European
fashion business. The market size for outerwear stands at € 40.9
billion.
4.2.2  Market characteristics
The Italian clothing market has traditionally been mainly supplied
by a strong national apparel industry, comprised primarily of family
owned production companies. These small to medium size com-
panies are flexible and often highly specialised in specific prod-
ucts. They are able to react quickly to market needs. The strong
community within these companies allows the Italian companies to
produce higher quality goods and to be more effective. About 90%
of the small firms are geographically concentrated and often build
so-called ‘conzorzii’, e.g. for export group marketing activities.
The problems in Italian fashion business are also due to its own
structure. Therefore many companies have begun or are planning
to embark on restructuring processes. Nonetheless, the Italian
clothing industry is one of the most competitive within Western
Europe and imports of outerwear encounter difficulties in finding
suitable market access. The Italian clothing industry itself is highly
export oriented and plays an important role in the economic situa-
tion of the whole country.
500'000 workers directly depend on the Italian clothing industry.
Italy is a leading country for clothing (and textiles) worldwide.
Clothing exports are double the imports. Italian consumers are
very much brand oriented, but also are looking for items which
offer value for money. In recent years, the consumers have also
become more price oriented and are known for their high de-
mands regarding quality. Because of the high specialisation of the
Italian producers and their offer of very sophisticated collections,
manufacturers from abroad should avoid copying Italian outerwear.
Cheaper and lighter clothing is more often sold in the South of
Italy, where the climate is warmer and there is less income per
capita. There is more expenditure on clothing in the richer North
than in the South, although more people live in the South of Italy.
4.2.3  Demographic characteristics
Italy is known as a family loving country where children and moth-
ers play an important role in society. Less known is the fact that
the formerly high birth rates in Italy have dramatically dropped
since the beginning of records in 1952 from 2.33 living birth per
women to 1.41 in 2008. The lowest birth-rate was recorded in
1995 with 1.18 living birth per women. Since then, birth-rate went
constantly up again. The Italian population grew constantly from
1952 to 2009 with a CAGR of 0.4% per year.
The most numerous group in the population are the 35 – 39 and
40 - 44 age groups, with a total of about 5 million inhabitants.
Compared to this age group, there is nearly half of that number in
the lowest age group, that is, the newborn – 4 year old segment
(2.5 million persons). Figure 4 shows further details.
Outerwear 2010 l 53
The consequence of the low birth-rate is not only that less chil-
dren's wear is sold, but major changes are required on the produc-
tion side. Since clothing production in Italy has a tradition of small
family owned companies, there are negative effects due to smaller
family sizes. The owners are no longer able to run the company
with fewer family members.
Another possible consequence is that parents often cannot find
a successor for their clothing business. Since these small family
companies are flexible, highly service oriented and dominating
the independent shops, the whole clothing distribution in Italy is
affected.

Figure 4: Age structure of Italian population by gender, 2008

10 0 +
95-99
male 90-94 female
85-90
80-85
7 5 -7 9
7 0 -74
65-69
60-64
55-59
50-54
45-49
40-44
35-39
30-34
25-29
2 0 - 24
15 -19
10 -14
5-9
0-4

2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5

Population in millions

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, International Data Base

4.2.4  Retail sales by product category Table 36: Share of outerwear by gender, 2004 and 2008
The shares of the different apparel segments (styles) of formal
Women Men Children
and casual clothing, leisurewear and active sportswear in Italy are
similarly structured to the more traditional oriented British clothing 2004 2008 2004 2008 2004 2008
market. Table 36 shows the dominant role in sales of formal Formal 40% 38% 41% 40% 17% 16%
clothing: 40% of men's wear sold in Italy is formal wear as is 38% Casual 35% 37% 33% 34% 70% 71%
of women's wear. Compared to other European countries, the Leisure 19% 18% 19% 18% n.a. n.a.
share of formal wear is very high. Active 6% 7% 7% 8% 13% 13%
sports
Casual wear has a market share of 34% for men's wear and 37% Total 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%
for women's wear and is a preferred product category of the Italian
consumer, as in all other Western European countries. However,
casual wear as the Italians understand it has a very sophisticated Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor
touch with high quality fabrics and basic but elegant designs in
comparison to the Northern European markets.

Basic leisure wear is less important in Italy and only represents

18% (men's wear) and 18% (women's wear) of the total clothing
market.

54 l Outerwear 2010
4.2.5  Consumer behaviour
4.2.5.1  Consumer preferences
Table 37 shows the development of the preferred types of retail
channels for clothing from 2004 to 2008. The table indicates that
Italian consumers mainly prefer to buy clothing in independent
shops. This retail sector still accounts for half of the total Italian
clothing retail market. The main reasons why Italian consumers
prefer independent retailers is that these shops are somehow
‘closer to the consumer’. Furthermore, these boutique-like shops
offer personal contact and mores service. The formerly very strong
market position of independent retailers has been weakened, but
is still clearly dominating the buying decisions of the consumers.
The high share of clothing consumption through independent
shops expresses the desire for service and quality. A graphic
­illustration of the 2008 situation is given in chapter 4.4.3.1 ‘Retailers’.
Generally speaking, the Italian consumer is extremely quality and
fashion conscious, but very hesitant and looks only for products
which he or she is really convinced of.
The fact, that Italians are more and more price oriented as
consumers can be derived from the increasing role of hyper- and
­supermarkets in the Italian retail market, where men’s and chil-
dren's wear in particular is bought. At the same time, consumers
have a high brand awareness. This is particularly evident in the
segment of children’s clothing. Many children love to have clothing
with pictures of current trends for kids on it.
Table 37: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]
2004 2006
Specialists 69 68
Independent retailers 51 49
Clothing multiples 18 19
Non-specialists 31 32
Department/variety stores 10 10
Home shopping companies 0 1
4.2.5.2  Consumer expenditure
Italy, in terms of consumption volume of clothing, belongs to the
top four countries within Europe together with France, the UK and
Germany. The consumption of clothing will, according to most
recent estimates, account for € 44 billion in 2009. Over the last
few years, spending on clothing in Italy was fluctuating around €
46 billion. As mentioned at the beginning of the Italian chapter, the
economy was badly hit by the financial crisis. This is also reflected
in the drop by -5.3% in total clothing consumption from 2008 to
2009. More details may be found in table 38.
It is notable that Italian women do not buy that much more clothing
than men. In other European countries like UK or Switzerland,
women’s expenditure for clothing is nearly double that of men.
In Italy, women only spend around 50-55% more on clothing
compared to men. This means that in Italy the market segment for
men's wear is more important than in the other countries analysed
in this survey
Table 38: Consumption of clothing in Italy
2004 2006 2008 2009*
Total clothing [€ billion] 45.3 45.7 46.5 44
Change [%] - 0.9% 1.8% -5.4%
Source: CBI – Note:*forecast
As table 39 indicates, the total expenditures in the North and in the
South of Italy are different. The disposable income in the North is
much higher than in the South. The Italian Statistical Office (ISTAT)
indicates an average household expenditure in 2006 of € 2'860 for
2008
the North and only € 2'010 for the South of Italy.
67
48
It is not possible to make a distinction between clothing and
19 footwear consumption on the basis of ISTAT figures. The figures
33 indicate that the consumption of clothing/footwear in 2006 in Italy
10 accounts for 6.4% of total household consumption (Basis: middle
1 income household).

Hyper- and supermarkets 9 10 10

Sports stores 4 4 5
Other 8 7 7
Total 100 100 100
Source: CBI

Outerwear 2010 l 55
Although expenditure in the South in total is lower - due to less North and Central part of Italy, where the import and distribution
disposable income - the share of expenditure for clothing (and structures are much better developed. Nevertheless, the South,
footwear) is at 7.7% and higher than the Italian average. Generally due to lower income, has a higher demand for ‘basic clothing
speaking, the more attractive areas for clothing sales are in the items’ (e.g. cotton products like cotton casual shirts and trousers,
T-shirts, knitwear).
Table 39: Comparison of household expenditure on selected categories by region, 2002 - 2006

2002 2003 2004 2005 2006

Monthly expenditure per household €
North Italy 2’413.89 2’572.14 2’699.75 2’726.62 2’859.61
Central Italy 2’347.88 2’466.15 2’391.75 2’478.17 2’494.53
South Italy 1’786.56 1’906.64 1’971.31 1’970.76 2’009.21
Italy 2’194.23 2’313.00 2’381.07 2’397.54 2’460.80
Spending categories Percentage distribution
Clothing / footwear
North Italy 6.3% 6.0% 6.2% 5.6% 5.5%
Central Italy 6.4% 6.5% 6.4% 6.2% 6.10%
South Italy 7.9% 7.7% 7.7% 7.9% 7.7%
Italy 6.8% 6.7% 6.6% 6.3% 6.4%
Housing
North Italy 25.7% 26.4% 26.1% 26.6% 27.2%
Central Italy 26.5% 27.6% 27.6% 28.9% 28.8%
South Italy 21.4% 20.7% 21.7% 22.0% 23.0%
Italy 24.7% 24.9% 25.5% 25.8% 26.0%
Fuel and electric power
North Italy 5.2% 5.1% 5.0% 5.1% 5.3%
Central Italy 4.5% 4.6% 4.7% 5.0% 4.9%
South Italy 4.4% 4.5% 4.4% 4.7% 4.8%
Italy 4.7% 4.7% 4.7% 4.9% 5.0%
Food and drinks
North Italy 16.1% 16.6% 15.9% 15.8% 15.4%
Central Italy 18.8% 19.0% 19.0% 18.8% 19.0%
South Italy 24.3% 24.3% 23.8% 23.6% 24.2%
Italy 19.4% 19.5% 19.0% 19.0% 19.0%
Furniture, appliances and household services
North Italy 6.4% 6.1% 6.1% 5.9% 6.2%
Central Italy 6.8% 6.1% 5.6% 5.7% 5.6%
South Italy 6.8% 7.2% 7.2% 7.1% 6.4%
Italy 6.4% 6.2% 6.3% 6.1% 5.9%

Source: Analysis based on ISTAT

56 l Outerwear 2010
4.2.6  Price developments of clothing 4.3 Imports.
Table 40 indicates the clothing (and footwear) price index com-
pared with the general consumer price index in Italy from 2003 to 4.3.1  Total imports
2006. Total Italian imports of outerwear in 2008 amounted to € 9.8 billion.
The CAGR was 1% from 2006 to 2008. Like elsewhere in Europe,
The clothing price index CAGR from 2003 to 2006 was with 1.7% extra EU imports increased in the same period with a higher pace.
smaller than the CAGR of the general consumer price index with In the case of Italy extra EU imports grew with a CAGR of 1.7%
2.1%. from 2006 to 2008, amounting to an end value of € 6 billion. This
shows that developing and emerging countries also are increasing
Table 40: Comparison of household expenditure on selected their market share of outerwear clothing in Italy.
­categories by region, 2002 - 2006
In addition, imports of the different outerwear segments covered by
2003 2004 2005 2006
this study showed a strong upswing from 2004 to 2008. Specially
General consumer the import increase by 36% of knitted women's outerwear (table
price index 122 124.7 127.1 129.8 41) is remarkable.
Clothing and footwear
price index 124.4 127.2 129.2 130.9 In the same period, the imports of men’s and boys outerwear only
Source: Analysis based on ISTAT – Note: 1995 = 100.0 grew by 25% in value terms. Category 61.03 (suits, jackets, outfits,
trousers, shorts etc.) only grew by 0.6%, this may be the result of a
very strong national menswear industry which is able to success-
fully compete against foreign producers.

In 2008 the total extra EU imports value amounted to 59% of the

knitted outerwear clothing import and grew by 11.7% from 2006 to
2008 in value terms. In the same period total import value grew by
11.8%.

Table 41: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product

categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €

For men or boys
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’985 37’941 1’700 40’136 1’664 46’794
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts 11’705 142’297 8’983 158’408 7’705 143’124
etc. (61.03)
Shirts (61.05) 8’380 188’298 10’106 238’978 10’627 268’854
Sub Total 22’070 368’537 20’789 437’522 19’996 458’772
Sub Total Extra EU 20’354 230’137 20’789 259’256 19’996 271’069
For women or girls
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 1’952 51’031 1’111 49’446 1’173 53’333
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dres- 23’438 230’638 12’937 311’990 10’395 341’770
ses, skirts etc. (61.04)
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 3’034 123’473 2’847 153’877 3’550 156’020
Sub Total 28’425 405’142 16’894 515’312 15’118 551’123
Sub Total Extra EU 27’176 213’334 16’894 245’899 15’118 290’946
Outerwear 2010 l 57
For both genders
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 53’351 1’110’158 48’380 1’177’639 47’096 1’130’123
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waist- 57’994 1’420’391 40’768 1’430’229 45’963 1’504’714
coats, etc. (61.10)
Babies’ garments (61.11) 18’456 208’375 13’866 224’805 12’179 223’436
Garments rubberised, impregnated, 889 11’772 638 11’273 526 9’394
etc. (61.13)
Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 5’241 65’357 5’262 64’557 5’696 68’806
Other made-up clothing accessories 4’559 50’923 2’738 40’364 2’805 45’076
(61.17)
Sub Total 140’489 2’866’976 111’651 2’948’867 114’265 2’981’551
Sub Total Extra EU 124’026 1’774’804 107’453 1’799’282 110’165 1’940’600
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear 18’065 232’051 14’406 229’937 12’357 248’433
(61.12)
Special garments for professional 8’767 239’645 11’236 300’967 19’379 358’683
sporting or other purposes (61.14)
Sub Total 26’832 471’696 25’642 530’904 31’736 607’116
Sub Total Extra EU 22’469 203’844 18’059 196’059 14’916 201’923
TOTAL 217’816 4’112’351 174’976 4’432’606 181’116 4’598’561
TOTAL EXTRA EU 194’025 2’422’120 163’195 2’500’496 160’195 2’704’537
Source: Eurostat 2009

Table 42 shows the import figures of woven outerwear into Italy
from 2006 to 2008. An interesting fact is that imports of woven
men's wear dropped by -5.2% from 2006 to 2008. Total women's
woven outerwear imports grew by 1.4% in the same time period.
The Extra EU import share grew in both cases by 4.6% and 8.8%
respectively.
Total woven outerwear imports decreased by 2% to € 5.2 billion
from 2006 to 2008. In the same period the share of extra EU
imports increased by 5.7% to 63%. This corresponds to a value of
€ 3.3 billion.

In 2008, imports of woven men's wear into Italy amounted to € 1.5

billion and imports of woven women's wear in 2008 represent €
2.2 billion. It must be mentioned that imports of woven men's wear
where much higher in 2004 with € 2 billion and woven women's
wear reached only € 1.6 billion.

Imports of all woven outerwear categories for men decreased from

2006 to 2008. Especially category 62.10 (coats, anoraks, wind-
cheaters, etc.) decreased by -11.3%. In the same period women's
­woven outerwear imports of the same category increased by
4.1%.

58 l Outerwear 2010
Table 42: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. 31’959 582’666 24’359 531’266 19’594 516’676
(62.01)
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, 69’278 1’397’554 55’871 1’371’590 51’872 1’353’472
etc. (62.03)
Shirts (62.05) 20’572 432’402 16’169 426’841 13’668 417’779
Sub Total 121’809 2’412’622 96’399 2’329’697 85’134 2’287’927
Sub Total Extra EU 105’477 1’494’501 96’399 1’504’279 85’134 1’482’408
For women or girls
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. 29’856 569’159 21’559 566’107 17’262 592’285
(62.02)
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, 53’923 1’384’183 35’749 1’387’445 32’927 1’363’832
etc (62.04)
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 6’104 226’542 3’960 239’971 4’148 254’720
Sub Total 89’883 2’179’884 61’268 2’193’522 54’337 2’210’837
Sub Total Extra EU 79’076 1’248’820 61’268 1’295’412 54’337 1’377’740
For both genders
Babies garments (62.09) 5’536 100’626 5’787 115’223 4’884 103’930
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 11’204 151’082 12’564 159’876 11’718 148’690
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 4’158 77’304 2’316 65’719 2’643 79’964
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 982 35’281 928 27’748 783 26’598
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 1’337 27’523 998 20’054 861 18’585
Other made-up clothing accessories 3’074 54’024 2’632 51’332 2’303 51’328
(62.17)
Sub Total 26’292 445’842 25’226 439’951 23’192 429’096
Sub Total Extra EU 19’051 256’475 17’553 243’027 17’143 251’929
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 20’000 294’016 17’931 277’373 18’820 295’945
Sub Total 20’000 294’016 17’931 277’373 18’820 295’945
Sub Total Extra EU 14’557 183’974 13’919 179’647 13’788 185’674
TOTAL 257’983 5’332’364 200’824 5’240’543 181’483 5’223’805
TOTAL EXTRA EU 218’161 3’183’770 189’139 3’222’366 170’402 3’297’750

Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 59
4.3.2  Outward Processing Trade (OPT)
According to table 43, the main two import countries for OPT busi-
ness with Italy are Albania, with imports of € 35.7 million in 2008,
and Tunisia, with imports valuing € 28.8 million. At present, the
countries with the highest growth rates in the outward processing
trade are Hong Kong (+155%), Armenia (+126%), Switzerland
(+63%) and Ukraine (+61%).
For Italy, the proportion of OPT imports compared to ‘normal’
imports of outerwear (f.o.b. business) is low. The implication for
clothing manufacturers mainly based in Eastern European coun-
tries is that there is a great deal of potential for more OPT busi-
ness in the Italian market due to the national industry’s struggle
with increasing costs for labour, energy, raw materials etc.
The total OPT business into Italy from non EU countries has been
slightly shrinking year after year: -1.8% in 2006 and -1.6% in 2008

Table 43: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear,

2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change 2007 [‘000 €] Change 2008 [‘000 €]
from 2006 from 2007
1 Albania 19’042 103% 38’650 -8% 35’682
2 Tunisia 22’442 11% 24’960 15% 28’769
3 China 8’221 171% 22’319 -19% 18’001
4 Croatia 10’441 107% 21’649 -24% 16’387
5 Moldova 9’358 68% 15’755 -1% 15’615
6 Ukraine 7’575 0% 7’547 61% 12’147
7 Morocco 1’043 557% 6’850 -13% 5’976
8 Serbia 984 379% 4’717 -11% 4’198
9 Switzerland 0 - 2’501 63% 4’079
10 Macedonia 1’666 94% 3’229 6% 3’427
11 Hong Kong 588 83% 1’073 155% 2’736
12 Egypt 41 4733% 1’968 8% 2’119
13 Bosnia-Herz. 243 566% 1’616 18% 1’912
14 Mauritius 74 1457% 1’155 56% 1’797
15 Montenegro 760 53% 1’163 -53% 546
16 Macao 0 - 351 52% 534
17 Armenia 0 - 143 126% 322
18 Vietnam 806 4% 841 -69% 257
19 Israel 0 - 0 - 201
20 Sri Lanka 762 -59% 316 -43% 180
Total 168’360 -6% 158’631 -2% 155’541
Source: Eurostat 2009

60 l Outerwear 2010
4.3.3  Largest suppliers of outerwear The three biggest suppliers are China, Tunisia and Turkey. These
Looking at the major clothing supplying countries to Italy, table three countries account for more than two thirds of the import sha-
44 gives a very good survey on the ‘top 20’ extra EU suppliers. re. Tunisia is also a strong OPT country for Italy, ranking on 2nd
Among the emerging and developing countries is China, with high place in the above shown table.
year to year growth rate imports of € 2.7 billion in 2008. This figure
represents almost 45% of the total imports of outerwear into Italy.
A similar picture can be drawn for Tunisia (€ 0.8 billion) and Turkey
(€ 0.5 billion) which have considerable growth rates, too.

Table 44: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear,

2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change 2007 [‘000 €] Change 2008 [‘000 €]
from 2006 from 2007
1 China 2’274’671 7% 2’434’448 10% 2’672’062
2 Tunisia 718’142 9% 781’795 5% 818’742
3 Turkey 474’623 12% 530’804 2% 539’329
4 Bangladesh 333’929 -10% 301’923 18% 355’189
5 India 339’217 -10% 305’470 -10% 275’318
6 Croatia 169’421 -11% 151’551 5% 159’431
7 Morocco 99’119 40% 139’136 1% 140’423
8 Albania 90’461 5% 94’981 8% 103’042
9 Switzerland 79’284 9% 86’119 9% 94’021
10 Sri Lanka 50’128 30% 64’977 25% 81’487
11 Vietnam 58’959 17% 69’198 11% 76’803
12 Moldova 62’696 15% 71’836 -3% 69’527
13 Indonesia 95’186 -33% 63’707 -2% 62’424
14 Pakistan 67’418 -3% 65’559 -17% 54’596
15 Egypt 44’712 8% 48’458 8% 52’122
16 Thailand 48’457 -4% 46’628 -7% 43’354
17 Hong Kong 164’314 -43% 93’411 -55% 41’708
18 USA 41’510 -9% 37’829 10% 41’671
19 Serbia 37’930 -2% 37’219 -17% 30’974
20 Mauritius 39’619 -4% 37’883 -25% 28’427
Extra-EU 27 5’605’889 2% 5’722’862 5% 6’002’287
Intra-EU 27 3’838’826 3% 3’950’287 -3% 3’820’079
Total 9’444’715 2% 9’673’149 2% 9’822’366
Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 61
Intra EU imports into Italy remained constant over the period 2006
to 2008. This imports accounts for 39% of the total outerwear
clothing imports to Italy. Only Romania, which in ranking on the
1st place and Hungary (ranking 10th) had constantly decreasing
values over the period from 2006 to 2008.

Table 45: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear,

2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
1 Romania 1’031’866 -16% 865’063 -5% 825’811
2 France 656’167 11% 725’300 -5% 692’522
3 Spain 260’587 28% 333’812 18% 395’027
4 Belgium 306’036 11% 338’639 12% 379’088
5 Germany 304’743 9% 331’168 -9% 301’442
6 Bulgaria 221’171 2% 225’221 2% 229’919
7 UK 165’151 18% 194’700 13% 220’946
8 Netherlands 147’755 22% 180’373 1% 182’025
9 Portugal 125’380 14% 143’076 -14% 123’179
10 Hungary 258’008 -12% 226’398 -54% 105’074
Intra-EU 27 3’838’826 3% 3950287 -3% 3’820’079
Extra-EU 27 5’605’889 2% 5’722’862 5% 6’002’287
Total 9’444’715 2% 9’673’149 2% 9’822’366
Source: Eurostat 200

4.4 Trade structure.
4.4.1  Developments in retail trade
The independent retailers, which are mainly run as family busi-
nesses, still have a strong market position. As stated previously,
the role of the independent shops in Italy has diminished and
many shops have had to close down because the owners could
not find a successor for their business.
Furthermore, a tremendous competition has arisen in the clothing
market from clothing multiples and supermarkets that have
discovered that selling clothing is a profitable business. As in
other South European countries, in Italy the domestic production
and distribution of clothing is closely linked. Many Italian clothing
brands like Benetton, Marzotto Group etc. have built up their own
retail system, often based on franchise partnerships all over the
country. In Europe, however as in Italy itself, Italian clothing brands
and collections have lost market share. The multiple shops of Itali-
an clothing companies have tried to answer by ‘going public’, joint
ventures and mergers, with partial success. With the money ear-
ned from giving out stocks, some Italian multiples have financed
their expansion plans to buy other companies and brands, enlarge
their production facilities or extend their distribution network.
As shown in chapter 4.3, imports grew constantly and in particular
low priced products were imported and sold in Italian super- and
hypermarkets. In addition, formerly middle priced and high priced
items are influenced by increasing imports.
The Italian clothing association ‘Sistema Moda Italia’ states that
the multiples in Italy cope better with the new challenges of cheap
mass imports than many small companies. The developments
in clothing retail are very much in favour of multiples like Sasch,
Benetton, Gas etc. that are able to optimise stock keeping and act

62 l Outerwear 2010
efficiently in the market. The small companies however have less
financial possibilities to follow the technical trends in research and
development and to establish their own distribution system.
Since the variety stores also import and take advantage of chea-
per clothing from outside the country, this segment could have pro-
fited in terms of gaining market share. However, the market impor-
tance is not as much as was forecast years before. Variety shops
have to fight against discounters or super- and hypermarkets not
to lose their customers searching for mid-priced and middle quality
items. Unlike previous years, these super- and hypermarkets
nowadays offer good quality and very reasonable prices.
Instead of only selling clothing, advanced managed Italian retailers
(mainly multiples and department stores) also often offer cos-
metics, bags, shoes, accessories and sometimes even stylish
household articles. There is a trend that retailers in Italy put
emphasis on a ‘lifestyle ambience’ in the outlets and appropriate
surroundings like cafeteria or special places for children. The aim
is to keep the customers in the shops as long as possible to moti-
vate them to finally buy something.
E-commerce and internet sales in Italy have fewer opportunities
than in other European countries. Only very low growth rates of
clothing sales through this distribution channel can be predicted,
because the logistically similar structured mail-order business is
very small as well. The Italian Post is not efficient and too slow
and it is a real burden to run a proper mail-order or e-commerce
business. Furthermore, Italian consumers like to touch the fabric
and trying on the clothing. Italian consumers, having ordered via
internet or mail-order, are generally not prepared to wait for the
items bought for more than one week.
A phenomenon in Italy are the so called street markets with a
share of approximately 10%. North-Africans and increasingly Chi-
nese dealers offer cheap (branded) and very fashionable clothing
with minor faults at a reasonable quality. Obviously, some of the
products are counterfeited. 8 out of 10 Italian consumers admit to
buy from these mainly illegal market dealers. Most of the goods
are smuggled from China, Morocco or elsewhere.
Based on developments in the European clothing market, changes
will also occur in the Italian retail sector.
4.4.2  Leading retailers
The largest clothing retailer is the well known Benetton Group
which has 6'200 shops all over the world. The turnover was €
2.1 billion in 2008. Benetton is both manufacturer and retailer
and carries the brands United Colors of Benetton (UCB Kids and
UCB Adults), Sisley, Playlife, and other brands for sportswear and
sports equipment. The group’s strategy is to increase floor-space
and to transform its shops into mega stores. The large shops are
managed directly by Benetton (no franchising) and are located in
historical town centres and main shopping centres. The new Be-
netton ‘Megastores’ sell casual wear and underwear and accesso-
ries for women, men and children.
Max Mara is an Italian fashion giant with a continuously growing
turnover, about € 1.7 billion, with more than 2'254 shops in over
100 countries. Max Mara operates 17 companies in the markets
and owns more than 35 labels. The brand produces and distributes
women's wear, mainly coats and suits.
Stefanel has 691 mono brand stores of which 264 are directly
operated stores. In the mega stores of Stefanel, brands other
than Stefanel are also offered. The whole company has a turnover
based on retail and production activities of € 275 million a year.
Stefanel owns four production sites in Italy and one in Germany.
The Coin Group is one of the leading European retailers for
clothing, accessories, and household goods with a turnover of €
1.2 billion in 2009. The retail chains Oviesse and Coin belong to
the Coin Holding and are subsidiary companies for different mar-
ket segments. Throughout Italy there are 299 shops and 19 are
located in other countries. The Coin clothing range is produced by
Manifatture di Fara SPA and Sirema Srl.
LA RINASCENTE is the leading department store in Italy with a
good reputation offering a wide product range including a wide va-
riety in clothing. In 2008, the turnover of La Rinascente was € 420
million. La Rinascente aims to be the most elegant department
store. Like other retailers that pursue a quality strategy, the stores
are attractively decorated for national and international customers.
La Rinascente department stores are located in characteristic
places in the city centres of the major Italian cities. La Rinascente
sold its subsidiary company UPIM (€ 430 million turnover in 2009)
to the Gruppo Coin.
Outerwear 2010 l 63
4.4.3  Distribution channels Germany or The Netherlands. The Italian clothing multiples only
4.4.3.1  Retailers buy a few items to complete their product range. However, if they
Table 46 gives an overview on the structure of the Italian clothing import clothing, then they buy directly and concentrate on basic
retail market from 2004 to 2008. The numbers indicate that inde- items.
pendent retailers account for 48% of clothing retail and therefore
represent nearly half of the market. As opposed to other European Market share: 19% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing
countries, where multiples have the largest share, in Italy only
19% of the clothing is sold through these clothing chains. Hyper- 4.4.3.1.3  Department/variety stores
and supermarkets represent 10% and department stores account There are two big department stores in Italy: La Rinascente and
for 10% of the clothing retail distribution in Italy. Gruppo Coin. The department stores in Italy have an amazingly
large range of products to offer. For example, Coin offers women's
Table 46: Clothing retail channels by market share [%] clothing from outerwear, underwear, night and swimwear to jeans
and sportswear. Beauty, fitness and shoes also have a major sha-
2004 2006 2008
re in the range of products offered in the Coin stores.
Specialists 69 68 67
Independent retailers 51 49 48
Market share: 10% in 2008, Trend: Slightly Increasing
Clothing multiples 18 19 19
Non-specialists 31 32 33
4.4.3.1.4  Mail-order houses
Department/variety stores 10 10 10
Over the last years the Italian postal service has made some
Home shopping companies 0 1 1 improvements. But still the mail-order business is little developed
Hyper- and supermarkets 9 10 10 and has no real tradition as in other European countries. The lea-
Sports stores 4 4 5 ding mail-order company is ‘Postalmarket’. Although the German
Other 8 7 7 mail-order company Otto gained market importance, the mail-
Total 100 100 100 order market share has decreased to 1% and does not show any
Source: CBI significant signs of change.

4.4.3.1.1  Independent retailers Market share: 1% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing

The Italian clothing market is dominated by independent retailers.
These are mainly family run clothing shops, and had a market
share of 59% in 1995. Since then, the importance of independent
retailers has dropped to a market share of 48% in 2008. Italian
small retailers offer high-priced items with an emphasis on quality,
brands, well designed outlets and service. These ‘boutique like’
shops convince with ‘personal contact’ and good ‘availability’ by a
dense allocation of the shops all over the country.
Market share: 48% in 2008, Trend: Strongly Decreasing
4.4.3.1.2  Clothing multiples
In contrast to other EU countries, clothing multiples in Italy mainly
belong to clothing manufacturers. The most prominent is Benet-
ton. Other clothing brands with own shops are Stefanel (women's
wear), Max Mara (women's wear), Prenatal (children's wear) or
Chicco (children's wear). Since these clothing chains aim to sell
their own collections, importers will have difficulties in selling to
them. This situation is totally different to other countries like UK,
4.4.3.1.5  Hyper- and supermarkets
While multiples and department stores often buy directly from ma-
nufacturers, the hyper- and supermarkets sometimes also make
use of agents and importers/wholesalers based in Italy. These
hyper- and supermarkets concentrate on cheap products and are
direct buyers/importers of clothing for which they have installed
purchasing departments and specialised buyers for clothing who
also travel abroad to inspect the production partner on the spot.
Hyper- and supermarkets in Italy only offer a limited range of
clothing products; often the consumer finds knitwear like T-shirts
and pullovers, casual trousers including jeans, underwear items,
anoraks and all kinds of shirts. The major supermarkets, mainly
located in the North of Italy, are Coop, Ipercoop, Gruppo Standa,
Conad, Despar Italia and Esselunga. The share of clothing sold
through hyper- and supermarkets is slightly but continuously incre-
asing, reaching a level of 10% in 2008.
Market share: 10% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing

64 l Outerwear 2010
4.4.3.1.6  Sport stores
Sport stores in Italy only offer a limited range of clothing products
specialised to fit to numerous sporting disciplines.
Market share: 5% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing
4.4.3.1.7  Others
Open (street) markets and consumer fairs are often supplied by
specialised wholesalers that import directly from emerging and de-
veloping countries. Markets and fairs traditionally play an important
role in Italy. However, the wholesalers involved in this fair and open
market business also buy good quality fashion products that are
sold at these fairs as well. Since the traders exhibiting on those
open markets have to react quickly to market trends, they also buy
selected clothing items from domestic manufacturers.
Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing
4.4.3.2  Sales intermediaries
4.4.3.2.1  Clothing manufacturers
Clothing manufacturers in Italy often run their own shops to be
independent from retailers. Manufacturers only buy a small share
of their collection from foreign manufacturers, mainly in order to
complete the existing product range. Large scale clothing manuf-
acturers in Italy are e.g. Benetton, Sixty, Replay, Diesel, Gas, Ste-
fanel, Max Mara, Prenatal, Marzotto or Chicco. The small clothing
companies are concentrated in so-called ‘conzorzii’ in Biella/Pié-
mont region (woollen products, coats, jackets, suits), Como-Lecco/
Lombardie (silk, woollen products, coats, jackets, suits), Emilia
Romagna (all kind of textiles), Tuscany (woollen products, coats,
jackets, suits).
4.4.3.2.3  Importers and wholesalers
Italian importers operate nationwide and mainly ask for the ‘exclu-
sive distribution rights’ for the whole of Italy. Importers/wholesalers
in the classical sense tend to be few in Italy, because of the high
competition within the distribution system and the strong position
of the clothing brands with their own efficient outlets. The importers
can often only position themselves by a ‘low price strategy’, e.g.
by sourcing basic fashion items in emerging and developing
countries. The role of Italian importers is getting less important,
because dealing and importing of clothing (being a fashion item
with its up and downs in sales) is increasingly seen as a risk. Nati-
onal manufacturers try to avoid collaboration with Italian importers
because they have the image of being too expensive. Similar
advantages and disadvantages may occur when dealing with Italian
wholesalers. Wholesalers in Italy normally act only within their
region to be more flexible for local markets and fairs. The Italian
wholesalers mainly buy from local producers. Italian wholesalers
also tend be very spontaneous in their choice with a strong ten-
dency not to bind themselves in long-term business partnerships.

4.4.3.2.2  Sales agents
As the retailers are scattered all over Italy and difficult to reach
from overseas markets, collaboration with an agent is common in
Italy and generally recommended for better market penetration.
Most of the agents are concentrated in the North of Italy and ope-
rate with sub-agents in central and southern Italy. The commission
for an agent covering the whole of Italy is about 10%-15%. Inde-
pendent regional sales agents take between 5% and 10%.

Outerwear 2010 l 65
4.5 Italian fashion trade fairs.
The Italian market for fashion fairs is quite clearly structured ac-
cording to their main product segments. The main cities for fashion
fairs with European recognition are Milan and Florence. Italian
fashion fairs like the ‘International Menswear Fair ‘Pitti Uomo’ still
has an international excellent reputation and in fact buyers from
all over the world tend to visit these international fashion events.
The exhibitors at Moda Prima in Milan are manufacturers of ready
to wear clothing from Italy and from countries like France, Spain,
UK and Germany, Eastern Europe and Asia. The trade show aims
to address major Italian retailers like department stores, chains
and mail-order companies, but also wholesalers, importers and
trading companies. The fair also gives space to manufacturers of
non-exclusive clothing. Only one out of four sections is reserved for
Italian manufacturers. Moda Prima seems to be the most suitable
clothing fair for manufacturers from developing and emerging
markets wishing to increase their sales to Italy. The most impor-
tant fashion fair for women's wear is the Milano Moda Donna in
February and September each year. The main fashion fair for
men's wear is the Pitti Uomo which is quite small but of absolutely
international importance with many buyers from overseas. The
table of the specialised clothing fairs below only includes events
with an international approach.

Table 47: Italian fashion trade fairs 2010

Trade fair Date Location

Milano Moda Uomo 16. - 19.01.2010 Milan
Milano Moda Showroom 18.01. - 07.02.2010 Milan
Milano Unica - International Textile Fair 16. - 18.02.2010 Milan
MODA IN - TESSUTO & ACCESSORI (Part of Milano Unica) 16. - 18.02.2010 Milan
Ready to show 17. - 19.02.2010 Milan
Milano Moda Donna fall/winter 2010/2011 24.02. - 03.03.2010 Milan
MI Milano pret-à-porter (former Milanon Vende Moda) 26.02. - 01.03.2010 Milan
Pitti immagine uomo 28.02. 03.03.2010 Florence
Milano Moda Design 13. - 19.04.2010 Milan
Milano Moda Pre Collezioni Spring 18.05. - 18.06.2010 Milan
Moda Prima 22. - 24.05.2010 Milan
Pitti immagine uomo 15. - 18.06.2010 Florence
SI SPOSAITALIA COLLEZIONI 18. - 21.06.2010 Milan
Milano Moda Donna spring/summer 2011 22. - 29.09.2010 Milan
Milano Moda Pre Collezioni Fall 16.11. - 16.12.2010 Milan
Moda Prima 27. - 29.11.2010 Milan
Source: Gherzi research

66 l Outerwear 2010
4.6  List of major buyers in Italy.
Clothing chain stores
Arimo S.r.l.
Via Libertà 52
I-20029 Turbigo (Mi)
Tel.: +39 0331 890814
Fax: +39 0331 898079
info@arimo.it
www.arimo.it
Arteni Spa
Via Nazionale, 133-141
I - 33010 Tavagnacco (UD)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 432 661288
Fax: +39 (0) – 432 660624
info@arteni.it
www.arteni.it
Bernardi SpA
Via dell’ industria 1
I - 33050 Ronchis (Ud)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 431 568111
Fax: +39 (0) – 431 567066
info@bernardi.it
www.bernardi.it
Jeune Srl
123/125, V. del Casale San-
tarelli
I - 00040 Roma (RM)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 7984 5219
Fax: +39 (0) – 6 7984 5931
jeune@jeune.it
www.jeune.it
La Cicogna srl
Piazzale Biancamano 1
I - 20154 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 233 605725
Fax: +39 (0) – 233 605725
Product range: underwear, Modifin SpA Product range: Men’s and
swim- and beachwear Via Manzoni, 38 womenswear
Price segment: mid level I - 20121 Milano Price segment: high level
Number of outlets: 126 Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 7609 3558 Number of outlets: 20
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 7609 3550 Note: Manufacturer and
retailer
Mango (head office in Spain) Product range:
Product range: ladies’, Mercaders 9-11 Womenswear
men’s, childrenswear, P.I. Riera de Caldes Price segment: mid level
sportswear Apartado de Correos 280 Number of outlets: 11
Price segment: mid level ES-08184 Palau-solità i Ple-
Number of outlets: 14 gamans
(Barcelona) Spain
Tel.: +34 93 860 24 24
Fax: +34 93 860 22 07
Product range: ladies’, www.mango.es
menswear
Price segment: lower level
Number of outlets: 150
Nico Garda SpA Product range:
Via S. Zeno, 67 all kinds of clothing
I - 36022 Cassola (VI) Price segment: low
Tel.: +39 (0) – 424 570630 Number of outlets:
Fax: +39 (0) – 424 570703 11 Italy, 12 EU, 3 US
Product range: womens-
www.nico.it Note: app. 100 employees
wear, young fashion
www.grupponico.com
Price segment: mid to
higher level
Number of outlets: 9
Zara (Head office in Spain) Product range:
Via Morimondo, 26 Ladies, men’s,
I - 20143 Milano childrenswear
Product range: childrens- Tel.: +39 (0) – 2818 00 81 Price segment: mid level
wear Fax: +39 (0) – 2891 52 424 Number of outlets:
Price segment: mid level www.zara.com 67 in Italy
Number of outlets: 10
Outerwear 2010 l 67
Jeans- sportswear and young fashion
M.J.F.
Mohave Jeans Factory
Zona ind. Corropoli
I - 64013 Corropoli (TE)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 8 6183 90425
Fax: +39 (0) – 8 6183 9197
info@mohave.it
www.mohave.it
Fornari Spa
Zona Ind.le ’A’
I - 62012 Civitanova Marche
(MC)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 7 3389 5511
Fax: +39 (0) – 7 3389 5518
fornari@fornari.com
www.fornari.com
JDS (James Dillon Sport
Wear) SpA
20/22, Via Vittine di Bologna
I - 10024 Moucalivi (TO)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 11 6402115
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 892 210214
www.jdsinternational.com
Mazzorato Moda
Via della Croce, 18 - Castel-
numio
I - 31023 Resana
Tel.: +39 (0) – 423 484191
Fax: +39 (0) – 423 484184
www.mazzorato.com
Sport’85 srl
V. Piave, km 68.600
I - 04100 Latina (LT)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 773 48 6456
Fax: +39 (0) – 773 60 624
www.sport85.it
Teddy SpA
Via Coriano, 58 – Grosrimini
BL.97
I - 47900 Rimini (RN)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 541 301411
Fax: +39 (0) – 541 383430
info@teddy.it
www.teddy.it
68 l Outerwear 2010
Product range: Denim
Price segment: mid level
Number of outlets: 12
Product range:
young fashion
Price segment: mid level
Number of outlets:
31 own, 39 dep.
stores, 3’500 multi-brands
Note: Brand ‘Fornarina’
Product range:
Sports-, casual-, denim-
wear for ladies and men
Price segment: mid level
Number of outlets: 8
Product range:
womenswear
Price segment: lower level
Number of outlets: 17
Department stores
Product range:
ladies’, men’s wear
Product range:
jeans and casualwear
Price segment: lower level
Number of outlets: 24
Product range:
womenswear
Price segment:
mid to upper level
Number of outlets:
370 worldwide
Diesel Italia
Via dell’ Industria 7
I - 36063 Marostica (Vi)
Tel.: + 39 (0) – 424 4855
Fax: + 39 (0) – 424 471 131
www.diesel.com
Fashion Box
Industries SpA
Via Marcoai, 1
I - 31010 Asolo (TV)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 423 9251
Fax: +39 (0) – 423 925299
www.replay.it
Sixty Groupe SpA
Via Erasmo Piaggio, 35
I - 66013 Chieti
Tel.: +39 (0) – 871 5891
Fax: +39 (0) – 871 562496
misssixty@misssixty.com
www.misssixty.com
COIN Spa
Via Terraglio, 17
I - 30174 Venezia (VE)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 41 2398000
Fax: +39 (0) – 41 982722
www.coin.it
www.gruppocoin.it
l Vecchio Continente Srl
Corso Alfieri 293
I - 14100 Asti (AT)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 141 31336
Fax: +39 (0) – 141 35 889
Rinascente UPIM Spa
15, C. Ventidue Marzo
I - 20129 Milano (MI)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 5990 2457
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 5990 23 29
www.upim.it
Product range:
jeans and casualwear
Price segment: mid level
Number of outlets: 26
Product range:
jeans and casualwear
Price segment: mid level
Number of outlets: 26
Product range:
casualwear for ladies
Price segment:
lower to mid level
Number of outlets: 16
Product range:
men’s, ladies’ and
childrenswear
Price segment:
mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 359
Note: largest department
store in Italy
Product range: men’s,
ladies’ and childrenswear
Price segment: lower level
Number of outlets: 10
Product range: men’s,
ladies’ and childrenswear
Price segment:
lower to mid level
Number of outlets:
147 stores
+ 230 franchise partners
Note:
belongs to La Rinascente
Mail order companies
G.D.A. SpA
Via Lenticchia, 24
I - 22100 Como (CO)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 5001111
Fax: +39 (0) – 31 5001191
shirty@gda.it
www.gda.it
Grocery super- and hypermarkets
C.I.S. COOP Italia
Non-Alimentari r.l.
24, p. Mercant
I - 50019 Sesto Fiorentino
Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 444840
Fax: +39 (0) – 55 4481243
www.e-coop.it
Euromadis
Via Christoforo Colombo, 51
I - 20090 Trezzano sul
Naviglion
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 48402900
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 48402038
Metro SpA
Via di Torre Spaccata. 172,
lotto 3
I – 00169 Roma
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 454 97 100
Fax: +39 (0) – 6 454 97 190
info@metrocspa.it
www.metrocspa.it
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers
G. Armani Spa
Via Borgonuovo 11
I - 20121 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 723181
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 8054102
www.giorgioarmani.com
CONAD Consorzio
Nationale
Dettaglianti scarl
Via Michelino, 59
I - 40127 Bologna
Tel.: +39 (0) – 51 508111
Fax: +39 (0) – 51 508414
www.conad.it
Gruppo Despar Italia
Via Caldera, 21
I - 20137 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 409091
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 40918177
Lombardini Holding SpA
Via Provinciale, 80
I - 24044 Dalmine BG
Tel.: +39 (0) – 35 432 0111
Fax: +39 (0) – 35 4320580
Product range: children’s,
babies’
Belvest spa Product: ladies’, mens-
V. Corsica, 55 wear
I - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta Manufacturer + wholesaler
(PD)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 49 969 9111
Fax: +39 (0) – 49 559 8759
www.belvest.com
Benetton Group SpA Note: 7’000 stores in 120
Villa Minelli 1 countries
I - 31050 Ponzano Veneto
Tel.: +39 (0) – 422 519111
Fax: +39 (0) – 422 969501
info@benetton.it
www.benetton.com
Cadena Italia srl Manufacturer + wholesaler
V. Leopardi, 31
I - 22075 Lurate Caccivio (CO)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 391030
Fax: +39 (0) – 31 391040
Casucci Spa Product: jeans and sports-
Vl. Abruzzi wear
I - 64016 Sant’Egidio alle
Vibrata
Tel.: +39 (0) – 8 618 481
Fax: +39 (0) – 8 618 41860
www.casucci.it
Fashion Group srl Product: Womenswear
V. Tiburtina, 643 Manufacturer + wholesaler
I - 00159 Roma (RM)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6 438 5972
Fax: +39 (0) – 6 438 6671
www.class-fashion.com
Forall Confezioni Spa Product: Menswear
V. F. Filzi, 34 Manufacturer + wholesaler
I - 36050 Quinto Vicentino (VI)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 444 35 6096
Fax: +39 (0) – 444 35 7064
www.sartoriale.it
www.palzileri.it
Outerwear 2010 l 69
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers Buying associations

Immagine Di Quattrocchi Product: Cooperativa Legler Società Buying of all kinds of

SAS Abbigliamente
V. Umberto I, 209
I - 98051 Barcellona Pozzo di
Gotto (ME)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 90 979 5867
Fax: +39 (0) – 90 979 5867
KOKO Srl
V. Lombardia, 8
I - 25025 Manerbio (BS)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 30 993 8422
Fax: +39 (0) – 30 993 8452
www.koko.it
Max Mara Fashion Group Srl
Sede Legale
via del Carmine,10 - Torino -
Italia
Tel: +39 02 777.921
Fax: +39 02 777.92801
info@maxmarafashiongroup.
com
www.maxmarafashiongroup.
com/it
children’s, womenswear Cooperativa clothing
Manufacturer + wholesaler Via Carducci, 5 - 24030 Pre- Buying centres,
+ retailer sezzo (BG) supermarkets, retail
Tel. +39.035.41.58.111 shops
Fax +39.035.41.58.126
info@cooperativalegler.it
www.cooperativelegler.it
Product: womenswear
Manufacturer + wholesaler Euroconfezioni Soc.coop.r.l. Buying cooperation,
+ retailer 39, v. Bellini manufacturer,
shops I - 89055 Reggio Calabria retailer
(RC) All kinds of outerwear,
Tel.: +39 (0) – 965 371878 sportswear, workwear
Mob.: +39 0349 4049055
Products: Fax: +39 (0) – 965 371878
womenswear – euroconf@libero.it
upper segment

Miniconf srl
52010 Ortignano Raggiolo
(AR)
T: + 39 0575 5331
info@miniconf.it
www.miniconf.it

Marzotto S.p.A.
Via Turati 16/18
I - 20121 Milano
marzotto@marzotto.it
www.marzotto.it

Pado Tonali SpA

Via Cesare Battisti 3
I - 21045 Gazzada Schianno
(VA)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 332 464233
Fax: +39 (0) – 332 464158
tonalispa@paolotonali.it
www.paolotonali.it

70 l Outerwear 2010
5. Spain.
5.1 General economic situation.
When Spain acceded to EU membership in 1986, its people were
among the most enthusiastic of Europeans. The country has done
well from its membership by investing in roads, railways and modern
infrastructure. But now the gilt is wearing off; there are more
eurosceptics and less interest in decisions made in Brussels or the
men and women who are supposed to represent them in the Euro-
pean Parliament. Strasbourg is a long way from the Cortes (parlia-
ment) in Madrid and Spanish political parties are less interested in
European issues than in their approval rating at home.
Unemployment in 2009 reached 18.8%, the highest in Europe, and
there are predictions that it could reach 20 per cent before things
improve.
A report from the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and
­Development (OECD) has painted a bleak picture predicting
­economic contraction of 4.2% in 2009, considerably worse than
the 3 % prediction of the Bank of Spain.
The speed of the recession has been striking. In 2007 Spain was
running a record public sector budget surplus of 2.2% of GDP, but
in 2009 it will have a deficit of nearly 10%. Within the Euro-zone,
only Ireland’s public spending deficit has risen faster. The gover-
nor of the Bank of Spain has warned that government debt could
exceed 60% of GDP in 2010, up from less than 40% at the end of
last year.
Further evidence of the economic crisis can be seen in recent
figures on house sales, which fell a record 47.6% in April 2009
compared to the same month in 2008. House sales have been
falling for 16 months, but this was the sharpest year-on-year
decline to date. The National Confederation of Construction has
estimated that around 600'000 homes around Spain remain unsold
and a decline in the construction sector of 12.8% in 2009 hit the
construction sector.
The housing bubble was fed by a chain of finance based on the
sale of bonds. This was swept away by the credit crunch. At its
peak the Spanish current account deficit was nominally the world’s
second highest, behind only the United States. This was in spite of
the fact that Spain has a population of only 45 million.
5.2 The market for outerwear.
5.2.1  Market size
Unlike in other Western and Northern European countries, the
textile and clothing industry is an important industrial sector in the
Spanish economy with 215'000 direct employed persons and 4%
contribution to the GDP.
Spain is a major world producer of textiles and apparel and the
country’s economy relies heavily on this sector. The Asian crisis
and the low growth of other world markets caused a strong ent-
rance of foreign textile products into European markets including
Spain, creating fierce competition, especially after the MFA
expired at beginning of 2005.
Since the introduction of the Euro in 2002, Spaniards have follo-
wed the European trend of spending less.
Spain ranks fourth among the EU after Italy, France and Germany
but has a stronger textile production base than e.g. UK.
The Consejo Intertextil Espanol reports that the total production
in 2008 for men’s, women’s and children’s outerwear amounted to
approx. € 10.4 billion the same amount of 2007. During the same
time period imports have decreased by -0.7%, but projections
show that imports will again rise by an average of 10% per year.

Much of the growth in the Spanish economy was based on a

housing bubble that has now burst. Between 2001 and 2007 Spain
accounted for around a third of new-build properties in the Euro-
pean Union. The property crash had a huge impact on the major
banks and the regional savings banks, which rested on mortgages
and loans to property developers. Bad loans have quadrupled in
2009 and there has been a rapid rise in defaults.

Outerwear 2010 l 71
Table 48: Evolution of the Spanish textile and clothing sector [€ million]
2004 2005
Employees [‚000] 243.3 223.2
Production 12’790 11’650
Import 10’031 11’011
Export 6’627 6’659
Trade balance -3’404 -4’352
Source: Consejo Intertextil Expanol, 2008
5.2.2  Market characteristics
The situation in the apparel market can be characterized as
follows:
The total Spanish clothing industry is highly fragmented with 3'900
clothing manufacturers. The production is to a great extent outsour-
ced to small and medium-sized workshops. Many large companies
are looking for lower labour costs in other countries such as Portu-
gal, Morocco and Tunisia. 2/3 of total Spanish clothing exports go
to other European markets. The main clothing suppliers’ are China
and Portugal, and the main customers are Portugal and France.
Innovation, just-in-time supplement, continual renewal of stock with
the most recent fashion trends and satisfying customer demands
are immediate success formulas of the largest Spanish companies.
Clothing sales through internet are less successful than in other
European countries like Switzerland, Germany, Netherlands or UK.
Only 1% of the Spanish population uses the internet for shopping
purposes. The general aversion to computers, problems with logi-
stics and lack of amusement during the purchase are reasons for
the low rate of e-commerce-based clothing purchases.
In general, the outerwear market can be divided into several
segments based on type of product combined with type of activity,
resulting in a specific clothing behaviour, like formal or classic,
(smart) casual, leisure and active sports.
Purchases in volume of women’s formal clothing decreased in the
period 2006-2008, caused by fewer purchases of suits, ensembles
and indoor jackets, while purchases of women’s casual and lei-
surewear (outdoor jackets, cotton trousers, including jeans, shorts)
increased in the review period.
72 l Outerwear 2010
2006 2007 2008 CAGR
206.0 169.5 182.3 -7%
11’415 10’390 10’390 -5%
12’336 13’383 13’281 7%
7’356 7’814 8’005 5%
-4’980 -5’569 -5’276 12%
Purchases in volume of men’s formal woven outerwear stabilized;
casual and leisurewear dominate in men’s expenditure.
Sales of woven outerwear for boys’ wear grew to a lesser degree
than girls’ wear and, especially, babies’ wear. Leisure and casual
items such as jeans and other cotton trousers, shorts and outdoor
jackets remained rather popular. Expenditure on active sportswear
in the children’s sector had a market share of 14% in 2008. Among
boys, the popularity of sportswear brands stabilized.
5.2.3  Demographic characteristics
According to figure 5, out of 46.2 million Spaniards, the major
population segment is between 25 and 39 years of age (approx.
10 million – male and female). This age group is followed by
those between the age of 40 and 44 years (approx. 3.4 million
people). Spain’s major target group is more than 5 years younger
compared to other Northern European countries. Therefore, the
young fashion and sportswear segment, being the preferred dress
style by these age groups, offers good sales opportunities for
clothing manufacturers from abroad covering this segment. As
in all countries analysed for this survey, children and teenagers
have a low share in the total population. Only approx. 8 million
Spanish citizens are younger than 20 years old. The prospects for
the children's wear sector are not positive: in the year 2008, only 2
million children were between 5 and 9 years old and represented
the smallest age group of all (except those over 75 years old). The
export manager from abroad wishing to enter or to sell more in
the Spanish clothing market should follow and/or anticipate these
developments and be prepared to further develop his collection
according to the demands of the targeted age groups.
Figure 5: Age structure of Spanish population by gender, 2008

95-99
male 90-94 female
85-90
80-85
7 5 -7 9
7 0 -74
65-69
60-64
55-59
50-54
45-49
40-44
35-39
30-34
25-29
2 0 - 24
15 -19
10 -14
5-9
0-4

2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0

Population in millions

Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base

5.2.4  Retail sales by product category and gender Table 49: Market share of outerwear by product category and
The Spanish clothing market can be divided into four major pro- gender, 2003 and 2007 [%]
duct groups: formal, casual, leisure and active sportswear.
Women Men
2003 2007 2003 2007
Spanish women wear often feminine and stylish clothes, but are
critical about comfort and quality. They also have higher prefe- Formal 27 25 25 22
rences for national brands and make their purchasing decision Casual 48 49 41 42
based on comfort, quality and design. Leisure 18 18 24 25
Active sports 7 8 10 11
Spanish men aged over 40 are classic dressers and reserve the
Total 100 100 100 100
greatest part of their annual clothing budget for a smart suit, while
younger men in Spain are more fashion-conscious and spent more Source: Euromonitor, Eurostat
on clothing in the last few years than before. Men over 40 are still
classically dressed and often wear a suit.

In general, the outerwear market can be divided into several

segments based on type of product combined with type of activity,
resulting in a specific clothing behaviour.

Spanish people prefer casual clothing for their daily life, largely
supported by young people. The increasing demand for jeans
and other cotton trousers, knitted products like T-shirts, sweaters,
jumpers, pullovers etc. and sportswear illustrates the popularity of
casual/leisure wear.

Outerwear 2010 l 73
5.2.5  Consumer behaviour women, the pattern is slimmer in Spain (e.g. a Swiss/German size
5.2.5.1  Consumer preferences 38 is size 40 to 42 in Spain). Also trousers with ‘extra length’ (like
Women and label-conscious urban young people tend to be the 36 and 38 are rarely in demand).
major target group in the Spanish apparel sector. Consumers in
Spain attach a great deal of importance to fashion and are begin- 5.2.5.2  Consumer expenditure
ning to care more and more about what they wear, giving special Consumer spending on clothing in Spain is below average levels
awareness to brand names. Interviews and trend research in Spain in other European countries. Average spending on clothing in 2009
have proved that professional women have a general preference amounts to € 492 per capita, which is clearly below Italy’s rate of €
for wearing natural materials, dark colours, comfortable styles and 733. It also decreased in comparison to Spanish total consumption.
classic designs. In contrast, in the North of Spain, light colours are
trendier. Six out of ten Spanish women regard quality as the main It is obvious that expenditure on clothing depends to some extent
aspect in their buying decision while 30% feel that design is the on the geographical zones. Firstly, the reason for these diffe-
most important criterion. Surprisingly, price is the most important rences is the social life, the income and the prestige, which play
decision factor for only 10% of women, in contrast to attitudes in an important role in the North of the country. Secondly, the climate
Northern EU countries and Switzerland. influences expenditure on clothing, e.g. in the colder North, the
relatively more expensive outerwear items like coats, jackets etc.
Spanish clothing consumers can be briefly characterized by the increase the per capita consumption in value terms. The ‘economic
following statements: centres’ are the regions with the highest readiness to spend money
for clothing like Cantabria, Navarra, Rioja and Ceuta/Melilla.
• The Spanish consumers do not have a tendency to prefer the
same shop; instead, they look for diversity in their shopping loca- According to industry sources, women’s expenditure on outerwear
tions. amount to approximately 50% of the total consumer expenditure
on outerwear clothing. More details about the structure of Spanish
• Although this habit has decreased, approximately 18% of outerwear consumption can be taken from table below.
Spaniards still go shopping with their families/relatives (in com
parison: European average is only 9% in this respect). - Table 50: Consumer expenditure on outerwear clothing
Spaniards buy clothing 7-8 times a year (on average), which is
2004 2006 2008 2009
below the European average of 9-10 times a year. The exception
Women [€ bn] 10.0 10.6 10.9 10.1
are young consumers from 16 to 34; their average is more than
Men [€ bn] 5.9 6.3 6.3 5.9
10 purchases per year.
Children 2.9 3.1 3.2 3.1
• Spaniards pay increasing attention to brand names – especially (aged 3-14) [€ bn]
young consumers and service quality. Total [€ bn] 18.8 20.0 20.4 19.1
Source: Analysis based on CBI
• The country of origin of the product purchased is for Spanish
consumers mostly irrelevant. 5.2.6  Price development of clothing
As the Spanish clothing market is still dominated by the strong
• Spanish consumers are less ecologically conscious e.g. compa national clothing production, price developments also depend on
red to the Swiss, Germans or the Scandinavians, and requests the national industry to a large extent.
for ‘ecological standards’ in terms of clothing presently can only
be observed in large cities like Madrid and Barcelona. The national consumer price index grew with a CAGR of 2.2%
from 2006 to 2009 (national consumer price index 2006=100,
The differences in consumer preferences compared to other 2009=106.8) compared to the clothing (including shoes) price
Western European countries like Switzerland and Germany is the index which fell by an average of -0.1% per year from 2006 to
cut of ladies outerwear. Due to the average smaller size of Spanish 2009 (clothing (and shoes) price index 2006=100, 2009=99.75).

74 l Outerwear 2010
The strong increase of clothing imports, mainly from developing
countries into Spain has led to more competition and has limited
the inflation for clothing items. The production costs for clothing in
Spain have been lower (e.g. for labour, logistics, marketing) com-
pared to Western European countries, the price level for apparel
has been approximately 10% lower.
According to the Textile and Outerwear Information Centre (CI-
TYC) in Barcelona, the mark-up for a Spanish retailer ‘theoretically’
is at 100%; in practical terms, due to sales and reductions, figures
run at only 70%. This tendency to stronger price reductions, lower
margins and a European wide price adaptation can be stated for
all countries of the Euro zone covered by this market survey.
5.3 Imports.
5.3.1  Total imports
The imports of outerwear clothing to Spain increased by 8.6%
from 2007 to 2008.
Table 51 and table 52 give a more detailed survey on the imports
from 2006 to 2008 divided into imports of knitted outerwear and
imports of woven outerwear.
Looking at the 2008 total figures in table 51, the import share of
men’s knitted outerwear clothing (knitted and woven) at 3.5% (=
€ 0.3 million) less than the half of women import (7.7% = € 0.7
million). The import share of knitted outerwear for both genders
was 29.6% with € 2.7 billion. Knitted sportswear items add up to €
0.3 billion, a 3.0 % import share.

Knitted outerwear for women or girls has the highest growth

rates with +59.3% from 2006 to 2008 (value) followed by knitted
outerwear for men with an increase of +19.9% in the same period.
It is obvious that these product segments with the highest import
growth rates offer the best sales opportunities for manufacturers
from abroad. The total import of knitted products into Spain increa-
sed in terms of value from 2006 to 2008 by 21.5%.

Table 51: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product

categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 1’660 31’622 1’845 34’432 4’060 43’383
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts 7’869 73’397 11’037 78’991 10’552 79’206
etc. (61.03)
Shirts (61.05) 7’525 169’910 7’456 183’269 76’923 192’434
Sub Total 17’053 274’929 20’337 296’692 91’535 315’022
Sub Total Extra EU 16’881 134’622 20’288 142’652 19’457 161’406
For women or girls
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 1’429 40’229 1’741 51’982 68’751 100’602
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dres- 16’221 238’419 23’463 347’689 211’976 442’543
ses, skirts etc. (61.04)
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 2’283 113’644 2’166 137’126 69’483 161’866

Outerwear 2010 l 75
 Sub Total 19’933 392’292 27’370 536’797 350’210 705’012
Sub Total Extra EU 19’230 178’715 27’268 227’588 24’809 284’749
For both genders
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 44’025 1’072’931 49’159 1’165’774 97’079 1’103’070
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waist- 43’336 982’295 39’882 1’070’531 148’322 1’303’971
coats, etc. (61.10)
Babies’ garments (61.11) 74’004 189’385 81’355 218’250 73’256 197’099
Garments rubberised, impregnated, 345 7’437 592 9’890 714 12’363
etc. (61.13)
Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 3’727 41’761 3’836 43’374 13’662 41’680
Other made-up clothing accessories 4’170 38’290 4’213 33’559 4’055 39’826
(61.17)
Sub Total 169’607 2’332’098 179’037 2’541’378 337’087 2’698’009
Sub Total Extra EU 98’452 1’180’680 102’600 1’285’865 120’174 1’382’790
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear 12’264 159’435 17’383 165’009 81’332 168’236
(61.12)
Special garments for professional 67’299 137’309 24’384 123’780 6’763 119’911
sporting or other purposes (61.14)
Sub Total 79’564 296’745 41’767 288’789 88’094 288’147
Sub Total Extra EU 16’697 152’772 22’143 141’514 11’935 124’556

TOTAL 286’157 3’296’065 268’512 3’663’656 866’925 4’006’190

TOTAL EXTRA EU 151’259 1’646’789 172’299 1’797’620 176’374 1’953’501

Source: Eurostat 2009

Generally speaking, imports to Spain in almost all woven product
categories have increased year by year since 2006. Looking at
the total imports of woven outerwear for women or girls, imports
from 2006 to 2008 in value terms increased more strongly than for
men. The imports of woven men’s or boys’ outerwear increased by
16.1% from € 1.6 billion in 2006 to € 1.8 billion in 2008, whereas
the women's wear imports for the same product group increased
by 17.9% from € 2.2 billion in 2006 to € 2.6 billion in 2008.
Thus, best prospects for imported apparel include business wear
(basic colours, good quality, medium- high price) for women as
well as high quality sportswear with a casual style and excellent
quality materials (mainly natural fibres) with sophisticated styles
and patterns. Casual wear, mainly denim, cotton-made products
and knitted apparel, have also been in strong demand and sales
prospects for these items have been rated as positive. Spanish
youth is strongly influenced by fashion trends from casual wear in
general (‘GAP style’) and it can be stated that imports in general
have very good prospects in this sector.

76 l Outerwear 2010
Table 52: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.01) 15’739 251’037 14’500 267’716 20’949 306’322
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, etc. 42’358 947’501 46’097 1’053’743 190’377 1’099’781
(62.03)
Shirts (62.05) 14’799 355’216 17’339 416’233 206’588 397’444
Sub Total 72’896 1’553’753 77’935 1’737’693 417’914 1’803’548
Sub Total Extra EU 71’231 887’827 77’496 980’492 77’932 970’813
For women or girls
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. (62.02) 19’377 352’049 21’803 403’012 341’039 474’557
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, etc 58‘111 1‘510‘981 59‘590 1‘628‘990 338‘589 1‘626‘261
(62.04)
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 6’452 302’746 7’663 378’931 13’553 453’405
Sub Total 83’939 2’165’776 89’055 2’410’933 693’182 2’554’223
Sub Total Extra EU 81’817 1’382’836 88’814 1’559’231 102’062 1’703’457
For both genders
Babies garments (62.09) 5’373 85’626 39’612 95’908 6’282 90’800
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 4’775 99’320 6’619 108’839 10’777 244’785
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 3’437 63’773 2’932 54’685 5’066 67’271
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 301 32’247 366 34’791 858 38’176
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 791 14’985 626 14’124 1’082 28’894
Other made-up clothing accessoires (62.17) 2’410 36’506 10’420 39’193 3’191 37’748
Sub Total 17’085 332’457 60’575 347’540 27’256 507’675
Sub Total Extra EU 10’762 117’682 12’206 116’744 13’424 143’250
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 15’645 221’525 22’621 237’475 79’944 244’000
Sub Total 15’645 221’525 22’621 237’475 79’944 244’000
Sub Total Extra EU 13’213 116’012 14’785 128’787 14’230 140’501

TOTAL 189’566 4’273’511 250’186 4’733’642 1’218’295 5’109’446

TOTAL EXTRA EU 177’022 2’504’358 193’299 2’785’254 207’648 2’958’021

Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 77
5.3.2  Outward Processing Trade (OPT)
The textile and clothing industry in Spain is a labour intensive in-
dustry with relatively high labour costs. Outsourcing is a common
practice among Spanish clothing firms, however mainly within
Spain. INDITEX (Brand ZARA), for example, designs, produ-
ces (50% is outsourced to subcontractors) and distributes its
own brands (vertical concept). The company policy of satisfying
customer demand almost immediately requires that INDITEX pro-
duction is almost entirely located in Europe, primarily in Spain to
provide the flexibility to respond quickly and effectively to market
trends. MANGO, Spain’s second largest textile company after
INDITEX, designs strictly women's wear for young urban women.
However, Mango manufactures only to 25% of its production in
Spain. The remainder of Mango clothing is produced in China (ap-
proximately 50%) and Morocco (approximately 25%) but almost
100% on finished product basis.
The actual ‘Outward Processing Trade’ (OPT) business – usually
operated by apparel manufacturers - in Spain plays more and
more important role but represents only 1.7% of total outerwear
imports. The No. 1 OPT supplier is by far Morocco with € 0.1 billion
imports in 2008 (in 2006 only € 0.04 billion!) followed by Tunisia,
China and Macedonia. Basically, there are two reasons for the
extremely small OPT business: a. the strong clothing production
base in Spain with rather competitive prices and b. no tradition in
OPT business.

Table 53: Largest supplying countries of OPT outerwear, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
1 Morocco 38’754 148% 96’166 18% 113’660
2 Tunisia 4’707 257% 16’782 6% 17’813
3 China 984 27% 1’245 194% 3’655
4 Macedonia 672 -13% 583 40% 814
5 Bangladesh 27 -100% 0 625
6 Serbia 10 770% 85 163% 224
7 Turkey 6 -100% 0 200
8 Vietnam 141 -41% 83 129% 190
9 Moldova 0 69 74% 119
10 Pakistan 0 0 100
11 USA 2 -100% 0 53
12 Hong Kong 10 5% 11 346% 49
13 Guatemala 0 0 42
14 Mexico 0 0 19
15 Norway 2 -100% 0 3
16 Bosnia-Herz. 0 70 -97% 2
17 Thailand 32 87% 61 -97% 2
18 Switzerland 2 -100% 0 0
19 Romania 7’129 -100% 0 0
20 Bulgaria 12’702 -100% 0 0
Total 65’477 76% 115’382 19% 137’570

Source: Eurostat 2009

78 l Outerwear 2010
5.3.3  Largest suppliers of outerwear
The five major supplying countries of clothing from extra-EU coun-
tries are – according to their importance – China, Morocco, Turkey,
Bangladesh and India The two main extra-EU suppliers of fashion
clothing, China and Morocco, represent 54.7% of the entire extra-
EU import value
The two main EU suppliers France and Italy represent 47.9% of
the whole EU import value. In general, approximately 46.1% of the
import value is supplied by EU member states and the rest comes
from developing countries.

Table 54: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change 2007 [‘000 €] Change 2008 [‘000 €]
from 2006 from 2007

1 China 1’395’357 17% 1’632’135 12% 1’825’982

2 Morocco 766’241 15% 882’098 -3% 859’022
3 Turkey 551’166 29% 709’031 -4% 684’114
4 Bangladesh 360’521 -7% 335’050 17% 393’519
5 India 261’435 -7% 244’034 24% 301’958
6 Vietnam 84’355 14% 95’896 55% 148’249
7 Cambodia 70’378 18% 82’788 19% 98’858
8 Thailand 45’076 -10% 40’614 135% 95’536
9 Pakistan 79’377 -5% 75’665 3% 77’785
10 Tunisia 51’308 18% 60’306 5% 63’343
11 Egypt 7’232 268% 26’582 103% 54’053
12 Indonesia 54’382 -10% 49’098 3% 50’417
13 Hong Kong 136’735 -21% 107’846 -57% 45’946
14 Myanmar 32’713 1% 33’168 11% 36’712
15 Switzerland 28’224 -5% 26’918 9% 29’217
16 Madagascar 16’913 7% 18’053 -15% 15’323
17 Sri Lanka 14’906 7% 15’951 -10% 14’289
18 Peru 13’946 -5% 13’221 -7% 12’342
19 Malaysia 26’877 -47% 14’327 -20% 11’517
20 USA 8’120 28% 10’354 1% 10’406
Extra-EU 27 4’151’147 10% 4’582’874 7% 4’911’522
Intra-EU 27 3’418’428 12% 3’814’424 10% 4’204’113
Total 7’569’575 11% 8’397’298 9% 9’115’635

Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 79
Table 55: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-
2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
1 France 639’311 18% 757’482 50% 1’134’652
2 Italy 806’863 13% 914’602 -4% 878’723
3 Portugal 600’697 13% 681’595 -4% 654’037
4 Germany 416’821 12% 466’345 5% 489’272
5 Belgium 344’117 17% 401’852 1% 406’711
6 Netherlands 136’536 33% 181’371 13% 204’598
7 UK 112’909 14% 128’388 39% 178’857
8 Denmark 116’167 7% 124’850 -11% 111’452
9 Bulgaria 99’598 -50% 49’421 0% 49’659
10 Romania 49’272 -57% 21’104 14% 24’078
Intra-EU 27 3’418’428 12% 3’814’424 10% 4’204’113
Extra-EU 27 4’151’147 10% 4’582’874 7% 4’911’522
Total 7’569’575 11% 8’397’298 9% 9’115’635
Source: Eurostat 2009

5.4 Trade structure.
5.4.1   Developments in the retail trade
The fierce competition on the Spanish market, partly due to more
imports from abroad, has led to structural reforms at the retail
level. The expansion of clothing multiples resulted in a decrease
in the number of independent specialized shops. In 2008, total
clothing retail trade showed rising turnover with an average annual
change of +2.3%.
Each year, independent retailers are steadily losing market shares
to other more dynamic retail channels; this trend has even accele-
rated in the last few years.
channels, like specialised clothing chains, and this trend will conti-
nue because of limited capabilities to respond quickly to changing
trends. At the lower end of the retail market, the market share of
street markets declined in favour of shopping centres (including
hypermarkets and multiples).
The further strategy of the clothing industry, partially running their
own retail outlets, includes the increase of productivity in order to
lower labour costs, and a higher dislocation of the production to
countries with low production costs. These cost-saving strategies
have been completed by a very sophisticated supply-chain ma-
nagement to provide the franchise shops with new fashion items
on a weekly or monthly basis.

In Spain there are five large groups that control one third of the to-
tal retail market for men’s, women’s and children's wear: El Corte
Inglés, Inditex, Carrefour, Cortefiel and Mango.
In 2008 there were 40'000 clothing retailers in Spain down from
70'612 in the nineties. Each year, small independent multi-brand
stores steadily lose market share to other more dynamic retail
The Inditex Group has achieved a worldwide leading standard with
almost perfect logistics and very short lead-times for new ranges/
designs of less than 6 weeks. It can be expected that the Spanish
clothing retailers will offer greater segmentation in the product
lines offered and specialize more in market niches, mainly within
the low and upper price ranges.

80 l Outerwear 2010
5.4.2  Leading retailers
As mentioned before, the Spanish clothing retail structure can be
characterized by a strong concentration on only a few companies.
Further, a significant part of the turnover is made by distribution
chains such as C&A, or international franchise companies like
Benetton, Pimkie or Promod.
Department store sales (in Spain El Corte Inglés) also represent a
large share of the total clothing market. The El Corte Inglés group
includes the franchise chains Sintesis, Cedosce, Tintoretto and
Amitié.
The most successful Spanish clothing retailer, INDITEX in La
Coruna, is the world third largest clothing company after GAP and
H&M, with a total turn-over of € 10.41 billion (2008) representing
an CAGR of 20.6% over the last 10 years (1998 turn-over € 1.6
billion). The founders and owners had opened the first Zara store
with the idea of producing fashion clothing at an affordable price.
Over the past decade, Inditex has registered 7 new brands and
runs 3'556 shops in 37 countries. Inditex group today consists
of eight major chains: Zara (Turn-over share: 65.6% - products:
men’s, women’s and children's wear), Zara Home (Turn-over sha-
re: 2.1% - products: home textiles), Pull & Bear (Turn-over share:
6.9% - products: menswear), Massimo Dutti (Turn-over share:
6.9% - products: men’s and women's wear), Bershka (Turn-over
share: 9.9%), Oysho (Turn-over share: 2.3%), Stradivarius (Turn-
over share: 6.1% - products: women’s and girls’ wear) and Uterqüe
(Turn-over share: n.a. – products: women’s and girls’ accessories
and shoes).
The Barcelona-based Armand BASI, originally a knitwear compa-
ny, is also an important supplier of men’s and women's wear, as
well as the Galicia based CARAMELO chain. Two leading Spanish
specialists in women’s jeans and trousers are ANINOTO and
JOCAVI, which are popular among women of all ages.
Table 56 gives a survey on the major clothing companies, most
of them having an own production as well as own retail outlets
among which MANGO, ZARA and CORTEFIEL have the most
advanced marketing concept and are successfully operating all
over Europe and partially worldwide. In the table below it becomes
obvious to what extent Inditex dominates the Spanish clothing
market with 1'896 own shopping outlet stores in Spain (53% of
worldwide shopping outlet stores). Another big player is the ‘El
Grupo CORTEFIEL SA’ in Madrid with 970 shops in 9 European
countries and 375 franchises in 37 non European countries.
The distribution of outerwear in the Spanish clothing market is
based on extensive franchising systems that are highly developed
compared to other European markets. Some of the most important
franchises are ADOLFO DOMINGUEZ (men’s designer clothing
– 559 outlets worldwide), MASSIMO DUTTI (ladies’ and men’s ou-
terwear – 250 outlets – franchisee Inditex Group) or TINTORETTO
(high segment ladies’ outerwear – 45 outlets – franchisee Induyco
Group).

INDITEX provides the flexibility and quick response to market

trends, while other Spanish clothing firms are based on designer
or seasonal collections. Designers are in constant touch with store
managers to find out which items are most in demand. The plant,
in turn, ships the goods to the stores twice a week, thus elimina-
ting the need for warehouses and keeping inventories low.
European firms such as Gucci are successful in the women's
wear market. Dutch/German C&A targets a bigger share in the
market. Other successful European chains in Spain are the Italian
Benetton, Max Mara chains and the French Pimkie. The Swedish
Hennes & Mauritz chain has operated in the Spanish market since
2000 and plans an aggressive expansion, opening numerous
outlets in major Spanish cities. The American GAP competes
successfully with Zara and Mango, offering young fashion at low
prices.

Outerwear 2010 l 81
Table 56: Major specialised clothing chains in Spain, 2008-2009

Clothing retail chain Parent company Website Number of outlets

Zara* Inditex www.zara.com 514 (1’188)
Pull and Bear* Inditex www.pullbear.com 287 (495)
Massimo Dutti* Inditex www.massimodutti.com 250 (398)
Bershka* Inditex www.bershka.com 262 (503)
Stradivarius* Inditex www.e-stradivarius.com 265 (412)
Oysho* Inditex www.oysho.com 176 (322)
C&A C&A www.c-y-a.es 114 (1’149)
H&M Hennes&Mauritz www.hm.com/ 114(1’988)
Adolfo Dominguez* Adolfo Dominguez www.adolfodominguez.es ‘(599)
Mango* Mango Holding www.company.mango.com 265 (1’223)
Promod Promod www.promod.eu 49 (783)
Amitié* Induyco www.amitie.induyco.es 78
Titorento* Induyco www.tintoretto.es 45
Síntesis* Induyco www.sintesis.induyco.es 11 (21)
Síntesis XXL* Induyco www.sintesis.induyco.es 11 (21)
Springfield* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 287 (1’223)
Cortefiel* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 250 (1’223)
Women’s Secret* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 229 (1’223)
Pedro del Hierro* Grupo Cortefiel www.grupocortefiel.com 19 (1’223)
Prenatal Prenatal www.prenatal.es 105 (339)
Pimkie Association Mulliez www.pimkie.fr 270 (655)
Décathlon Association Mulliez www.decathlon.com ‘(457)
Intersport Intersport Group www.intersport.com ‘(4’885)
Sport2000 Groupe Sport 2000 www.sport2000.fr ‘(2’446)

Source: Gherzi analysis – Note: *Companies with own production in Spain or clothe collaboration; Number in brackets corresponds to worldwide outlets.

82 l Outerwear 2010
5.4.3  Distribution channels 5.4.3.1.2  Clothing multiples
5.4.3.1  Retailers Key characteristics: Clothing multiples mainly or exclusively have
The last survey on the structure of the Spanish clothing distribu- only one brand label in their assortment for fashionable products
tion channels dated from 2009 indicates that 157'600 persons with short rotation times (like Mango). As a result of aggressive
were employed in 62'817 shops. The size of the shops in Spain is expansion plans, these specialist chains account for a large per-
comparatively small with 2.5 employees per unit (source: Distri- centage of total retail clothing sales in Spain. Many of these chains
bución Actualidad based on data from DBK). Table 57, based on operate on either a franchise basis or a mix of both company-run
CBI, indicates the share of the clothing distribution channels in stores and franchises. These often single brand retail channels,
2008. The market is still dominated by the independent specialized along with hypermarkets, have gained the greatest market share
retailers (35%) but the share of clothing multiples (28%) has grown at the expense of the multi-brand independent shops. Like France
in recent years and can be rated, together with the hyper- and su- and the UK, Spain possesses favourable regulations for franchise
permarkets (11%), as the greatest potential target customer group companies.
for manufacturers from developing countries.
Market share: 28% in 2008, Trend: Increasing
Table 57: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]
5.4.3.1.3  Department / variety stores
2004 2006 2008
Key characteristics: Department stores combine a wide range of
Specialists 63 64 63
branded goods and private labels. The prevalent Spanish de-
Independent retailers 38 37 35 partment store is El Corte Inglés, the store presents more than
Clothing multiples 25 27 28 30 brands of men’s, women’s and children's wear. Many of these
Non-specialists 37 36 37 brands originate from the Induyco Group (which is the owner of El
Department/variety stores 13 12 12 Corte Inglés). However, a large portion of the assortment consists
Home shopping companies 1 1 1 of well-known Spanish or foreign brands. According to our market
Hyper- and supermarkets 10 10 11 observations, entry to the Spanish market through El Corte Inglés
Sports stores 5 6 6 for companies with substantial sales volume has been indispens-
Other 8 7 7 able up to now. Despite strict terms of admission (restrictive terms
Total 100 100 100 of payment, certain levels of turnover etc.) set up by the leading
Source: CBI department store, many brand manufacturers try to sell their
garments to El Corte Inglés. Due to strict brand orientation, the
5.4.3.1.1  Independent retailers department store offers easier access for well known brands and
Key characteristics: These specialized clothing shops are still the companies with a good image. Companies from developing coun-
main retail outlets for garments in Spain (Jeans-shops, Boutiques, tries have the best access chances to El Corte Inglés by offering
sportswear-shops), although the market share of these shops has their assortment to the ‘private label buying managers’ who source
been slightly decreasing. They still play an important role mostly in their products mainly from overseas suppliers.
the North of Spain, although even here the importance for this dis-
tribution channel is shrinking. Each year small independent multi- Market share: 12% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing
brand stores steadily lose market share to other more dynamic
retail channels (like large department store El Corte Ingles, C&A 5.4.3.1.4  Home shopping companies
and other forms of retail). This trend has accelerated in the past Mail-order has traditionally not been particularly popular in Spain,
few years, mainly because of their limited capabilities to respond with direct selling being the more effective and better-developed
quickly enough to changing market trends and the limited choice of method in the Spanish market. Shopping has always been seen as
products in the shops. a leisure activity in Spain, where shops stay open late.

Market-share: 35% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing

Outerwear 2010 l 83
The major German and French players are present in Spain, but
their progress has been slow. Spanish leading mail-order compa-
nies selling clothing besides general goods are Venca (part of Otto
Versand) and La Redoute Catalogue.
Market share: 1% in 2008, Trend: Constant
5.4.3.1.5  Hyper- and supermarkets
Key characteristics: The main activities of grocery super- and
hypermarkets lie originally in the selling of groceries. Both distri-
bution channels are gaining importance in Spain. The price level
of clothing sold by super- and hypermarkets ranges in the lower to
middle level. The important suppliers are large supermarkets like
ALCAMPO, ALIMENT, MERCADONA, GIGANTE and CARRE-
FOUR. For the children's clothing sector this distribution channel
plays a particularly important role.
Market share: 11% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing
5.4.3.1.6  Sport shops
Sport stores in Spain only offer a limited range of clothing products
specialised to fit to numerous sporting disciplines.
Market share: 6% in 2008, Trend: Slightly increasing
5.4.3.1.7  Other (street markets, etc.)
According to desk-research and interviews conducted in Spain,
open street markets and to a lesser extent consumer fairs and
factory outlets are the major distribution channels for clothing
summarised under ‘Other forms of retail’. The market share of this
retail channels is slightly decreasing.
Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Slightly decreasing
5.4.3.2  Sales intermediaries
5.4.3.2.1  Clothing manufacturers
As stated above, the clothing production sector plays a dominant
role in the Spanish industry. There is a growing trend among
manufacturers to create their own chain of distribution. Franchise
has become a very common system for brand name distribution of
fashion products.
A new way of distributing garments for clothing manufacturers
originates from the USA: Sales through Factory Outlet Cen-
ters (FOCs). Garments are sold directly from the factory to the
consumer. This distribution way concerns ‘leftovers’: goods from
84 l Outerwear 2010
overproduction, phased-out products and returns. ZARA has an
independent shop in Madrid. There are many FOCs in Spain, loca-
ted outside of big cities. There is FOC ‘La Roca Company Stores’
near Barcelona, which offers brand apparel at reduced price in 40
shops (Cacharel, Dockers, Levi’s, Timberland). Two other FOCs
are situated near Madrid (‘Las Rozas Village’ in Las Rozas and
another one in Getafe). According to Factory-Outlet Center.biz
there are 9 registered large FOC’s in Spain in 2009.
5.4.3.2.2  Central buying associations
As the share of independent smaller retailers in Spain (at 35%)
is high, there is a relatively broad basis for potential member
companies for buying associations. Nevertheless, the major buying
association Spain is IFA ESPANOLA in Madrid. The members are
more supermarkets and cash-and-carry markets than retailers.
The low importance of buying associations in Spain can be mainly
explained by the fact that the owner of a single boutique or a small
number of shops buys over 80% of his product range from local
manufacturers and/or from sales agents representing foreign
brands. Therefore, the buying associations are of less importance
for foreign manufacturers wishing to export to Spain.
5.4.3.2.3  Sales agents
Sales agents play a major role in the Spanish clothing market. This
refers mainly to Spanish and European clothing brands which are
distributed via a network of sales agents all over the country. Only
those clothing manufacturers from abroad wishing to enter the
Spanish market with an own product range are advised to appoint
a sales agent to sell their collection to the major retailers. These
sales agents should be located near or in the major ‘clothing are-
as’ of Spain like Madrid, Seville, Barcelona and La Coruña to build
up and maintain contact to the ‘key players’ in Spain.
5.4.3.2.4  Importers/wholesalers
Given the strong increase of clothing imports into Spain since the
end of the nineties, the necessity for the assignment of importers/
wholesalers has increased. Some Spanish wholesalers/impor-
ters have come to supply the chains and the brands with ‘price
attractive and fashionable’ collections that they often develop with
manufacturers from overseas countries. However, interviews in
Spain have shown that the large clothing companies like Mango,
Inditex or Indyuco often have their own import departments and
sourcing and control systems worldwide. Therefore, the clothing
supplier from abroad should approach retailers and manufacturers
in Spain directly.
5.5 Spanish fashion trade fairs.
The important Spanish fashion fairs take place in two big cities:
Barcelona and Madrid.
The significant fashion fair in Madrid is SIMM – International Fa-
shion Week. It is organized twice a year, in February and August/
September in Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I by IFEMA (Feria de
Madrid). The fair focuses on men’s and women's wear, but also
fur clothing and leather garments. The fair includes the following
events: INMODA/ANIMODA, IMAGENMODA, INTERMODA, LA
GALERIA, PASARELA DE CIBELES, CIEN POR CIEN, ESPA-
Table 58: Spanish fashion trade fairs 2010
Trade fair
FIMI
Salon Intenational de Moda de Madrid (SIMM)
Source: CBI
CIO CIBELES, ESPACIO HOMBRE and BOUTIQUE EUROPA.
The ongoing growth SIMM has enjoyed has made this event the
second most important fashion trade fair in Europe in terms of
net exhibition area, based on a solid and constant drive to ensure
quality. Furthermore, the fair will feature strong participation on the
part of international companies and buyers from other countries,
for which SIMM represents an important business centre.
For children's wear the ‘FIMI’ in Valencia is the most important
event. The fair takes place twice per year and shows baby to tee-
nager wear as well as accessories and maternity wear.
Date Location
18. - 20.06.2010 Valencia
04. - 06.02.2010 Madrid
Outerwear 2010 l 85
5.6 List of major buyers in Spain.
Clothing chain stores
C & A Modas S.L.
Avda. de la Indústria, 17
Pol. Ind. de Alcobendas
28108 Alcobendas (Madrid)
Tel.: +34-91-663 0000
Fax: +34-91-663 3532
press@C-and-A.com
www.c-and-a.com or
www.c-y-a.es
infoiberica@retail-sc.com
Celso Garcia SA
Calle Serrano 52
E - 28001 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-431 6760
Fax: +34-91-431 67 70
www.cortefiel.es
Comerc. Espanola LA ARA-
NA SA
Polígono Industrial El Pla -
Edificio Arana
E - 08800 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-668 9061
Fax: +34-93-668 5962
Cortefiel SA
Avenida Mon Forte De Lemos
s/n
E - 28029 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-730 2912
Fax: +34-91-730 2437
www.cortefiel.es
Damart SA
Calle Gomis 32
E - 08023 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-212 2412
Fax: +34-93-211 5815
www.damart.fr
86 l Outerwear 2010
Product range: Ladies’, Euronido Textil SA
men’s and childrenswear Ctra. Andalucia, km 6.400
Price segment: E - 28041 Madrid
Lower to mid level Tel.: +34-91-217 3345
Number of outlets: 115 Fax: +34-91-365 0848
www.euronido.es
Inditex SA (‘Zara’)
Poligono Ind. Sabon 79B
E - 15142 Arteixo, La Coruna
Tel.: +34-981-185400
Product range: Ladies’, Fax: +34-981-185454
men’s and childrenswear www.inditex.com
Price segment: Mid level
Number of outlets: 11
Note: Belongs 1/3 to Mango – Punto FA S.L.
Cortefiel Calle Mercaders 9 11
E - 08184 Palau de Plegamans
Product range: Ladies’ – Number of outlets:
and menswear Barcelona
Price segment: Lower to Tel.: +34-93-860 2222
mid level Fax: +34-93-8602 201
Number of outlets: 42 www.mango.es
Prénatal SA
Botanica 29-31
Product range: Ladies’ E-08908 Hospitalet de Llobre-
and menswear + young gat (Barcelona)
fashion Tel.: +34-93-2606000
Price segment: Mid level Fax: +34-93-2606018
Number of outlets: > 300 www.prenatal.es
Reguero SA
Roble 3
Product range: Ladies’ E - 28020 Madrid
and menswear, under- Tel.: +34-91-4252 880
wear Fax: +34-91- 571 57 35
Price segment:
Lower level Superconfex SA
Number of outlets: 22 Sierra de Guadarrama 84
shops + mail order Polígono Industrial San
Fernando
de Henares
E - 28850 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-656 4012
Fax: +34-91-677 2935
www.superconfex.be
Product range: Ladies’
and menswear
Price segment:
Lower level
(value for money)
Number of outlets: 16
Product range: Ladies’,
men’s and childrenswear
Price segment: Mid to
upper level
Number of outlets: > 500
- partially
own production
Product range: Womens-
wear, young fashion
Price segment: Mid level
Over 60 + 175
franchising partners
Product range: Childrens-
wear, Maternity wear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 105
Product range: Menswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid level
Number of outlets: 14
Product range: Ladies’
and menswear
Price segment: Lower
level
Number of outlets: 12
Note: Daughter company
of Dutch
‘Superconfex’
Jeans-, sportswear and young fashion
Dacosa SA
Claudio Coello 57
E - 28001 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-431 6041
Fax: +34-91-577 4904
dacosaspeedway@hotmail.com
www.dacosaspeedway.com
Department stores
Alcampo SA
Edificio de Oficina Madrid 2
Santiago del Compostela sur
s/n
E - 28029 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-730 6666
Fax: +34-91-730 7299
www.alcampo.es
El Corte Ingles SA
Hermosilla 112
E - 28009 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-309 7221
Fax: +34-91-327 1327
www.elcorteingles.es
Galerias Primero SA
Paseo Echegaray y caballero 76
E - 50003 Zaragoza
Tel.: +34-976-769900
Fax: +34-976-769901
www.galeriasprimero.es
www.grupoelarbol.com
Jose Luis Gay GA
Calle Alfonso I n 17
E - 50003 Zaragoza
Tel.: +34-976-397150
Fax: +34-976-396647
Simago SA
Josefa Valcarcel, 40 duplicado
E - 28027 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-301 80 00
Fax: +34-91-301 80 23
Mail order companies
Product range: Sports-
wear
Price segment:
Mid to higher level
Number of outlets: 110
Note: belongs to Cortefiel
group
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers
Product range: Ladies’,
men’s and childrenswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid level
Number of outlets: 43 + 13
gas stations
Product range: Men’s
ladies and childrenswear
Price segment: Lower to
upper level (depending on
distribution channel)
Number of outlets: 37
dept. stores + supermar-
kets + franchising partners
Product range: Ladies’,
men’s and childrenswear
Price segment: Mid level
Number of outlets: 11
Product range: Ladies’ and
menswear
Price segment: Lower
level
Number of outlets: 6
Product range: Ladies’,
men’s and childrenswear
Price segment: Lower
level
Number of outlets: appro-
ximately 15
Note: belongs to the Spa-
nish Continente Group
Venta Catalogo SA Product range:
Calle de los Olivares 1 - Casual wear for men
Vilanova i la Geltrú and women
E - 08800 Barcelona Price segment: Mid level
Tel.: +34-93-814 0909
Fax: +34-93-893 0818
www.venca.es
Caramelo SA Product range: Ladies’ and
Avda. Gambrinus 103 menswear
E - 15008 La Coruna Price segment:
Tel.: +34-981-146 002 Mid to higher level
Fax: +34-981-270103 Number of outlets: 25
www.caramelo.com Note: Manufacturer +
retailer
Centro Textil Massana Product range: Knitwear
C. Josep Calvet, 80 - Apto. and outerwear
1052 Price segment: Mid level
E - 08302 Mataró (Barcelona)
Tel.: +34-937-415 545
Fax: +34-937-415 553
www.massana.es
Difusión Dignos S.L. / Product range: Knitwear
Dikton’s Price segment:
C/Tanger 66 Lower to mid level
E - 08018 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-486 45 45
Fax: +34-93-486 45 46
sales@diktons.com
www.diktons.com
Import Arrasate S.A. Product range: Sport and
Pol. Kataid, pab 19 rainwear
E - 205000 Arrasate
(Guipuzcoca)
Tel.: +34-943-712-034
Fax: +34-943-771-301
www.astore.es
Outerwear 2010 l 87
Manufacturers / importers and wholesalers / importers
Induyco Grupo de Moda
Tomas Breton, 62
E - 28045 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-4680 300
Fax: +34-91-46 78 723
www.induyco.es
Sirita SL
Calle Poligono 6
E - 46960 Aldaya (Valencia)
Tel.: +34-96-151 2377
Fax: +34-96-151 2361
www.andres-garcia.com
Takezo + Co. SA
Trafalgr 70
E - Barcelona (Ciutat Vella)
Tel.: +34-93-268 4322
Fax: +34-93-268 2293
Unicen SL
San Pedro de Leixa 303
E - 15405 Ferrol, La Coruna
Tel.: +34-981-315611
Fax: +34-981-326252
www.unicen.com
88 l Outerwear 2010
Product range: Ladies,
men’s and childrenswear
Price segment: Mid to high
level
Note: 50% production
absorbed by
Corte Inglés
Product range: Casual
wear for men
Note: Manufacturer
Product range: Ladies’ and
menswear
Price segment: Mid level
Product range: Menswear
Note: Manufacturer and
wholesaler
Buying associations
IFA Española SA Note:
Sepulveda, 4 62 related wholesalers
Poligono Industrial Alcobendas
E - 28108 Alcobendas (Madrid)
Tel.: +34-91-651 0460
Fax: +34-91-661 5880
www.grupoifa.com
Una – Vivo AS Note:
Condado de Trevino 19 160 related companies
E - 28033 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-766 1222
6. Switzerland.
6.1 General economic situation. Table 59: Key indicators of the Swiss economy, 2007-2009

2007 2008 2009

The Swiss import policy for clothing from EU and to a large extent
also from non-EU countries is very liberal. Thus, the economy is Real GDP growth [%] 6.2 4 -2
internationally highly integrated, applying an open trade regime for Industrial production growth [%] 6.5 2.1 -6.7
industrial products. Tariffs on manufactured products are gene- Average unemployment rate [%] 2.8 2.7 3.5
rally low, and in principle there are no quantitative restrictions, Average consumer price index [%] 2.6 3.3 -3.9
anti-dumping, countervailing or safeguard actions. However, in a Exchange rates
number of sectors, the market entry has long suffered from ‘private’ CHF in € (average) 0.61 0.63 0.66
or ‘informal’ barriers that can be attributed to a legacy of weak
CHF in US$ (average) 0.83 0.93 0.93
anti-cartel legislation, specific and protective technical regulations,
certain investment restrictions, etc. Source: IMF, FSO Statistical Yearbook 2009, Oanda

Against the backdrop that Switzerland has no mineral resour-

ces, the country is forced to import, process and resell them as
products. The ‘service sector’ is the most significant part of the
economy, employing more the 50% of the population. This sector
specifically includes banking, insurance and tourism. Industry
and trade are the second sectors in significance (about 40% of
the population are employed there) and include the machine and
metal industry, the watch industry as well as the textile and clothing
industry.
Economic relations with the EU have further intensified and foreign
trade with this ‘country block’ has a share of 70% of all Swiss
trade activities. Exports of merchandise are concentrated on a few
sectors, particularly machinery, instruments, watches, chemicals
and medical products and to a lesser extent textiles and clothing.
Exports of commercial services are also important with about one
quarter originating in the financial sector.
As mentioned, the European countries play an important role in
Swiss trade relations. Germany is the most important trading part-
ner for Switzerland: In 2008, 34.6% (€ 44.3 billion) of all imports
came from Germany and 20.3% of all exports (€ 28.5 billion) were
delivered into Germany. Both are also important investment part-
ners to each other. Switzerland is the sixth largest foreign investor
in Germany.
GDP and Industrial Production have grown from 2007 to 2008 by
1.7% and 4.7% respectively. Table 59 shows all of the important
Key Indicators of the Swiss Economy over the last years.
6.2 The market for outerwear.
6.2.1  Market size
Switzerland has a small but very competitive apparel market. In
2008, the total local clothing industry had a turn over of about
CHF 2.01 billion. Switzerland has very high labour and production
costs, and therefore the industry has the tendency to concentrate
on high-end and/or niche products. Switzerland’s apparel industry
is experiencing a resizing process, based on the following key
factors:
• Worldwide over capacities
• Growing competition from low wage economies
• Strict displacement competition
• Lack of market dynamics in textile production
• Market split between expensive labels and cheap mass clothing
• Consumer price sensitivity
• Demographic developments
Clothing imports amounted to CHF 6.28 billion in 2008 (see table
60), a 0.6% growth over the previous year. At the same time,
clothing exports accounted for CHF 2.14 billion. Due to the fact
that Switzerland is a relatively small country, the Swiss clothing
industry depends strongly on exports. Local production accounts
for CHF 2.01 billion. Thus, imports are three times stronger than
local production.

The CHF develops more closely in line with the Euro than with the
USD. In the past few years, the ratio of the CHF to the Euro has
slowly but continuously grown stronger. One CHF is at present
0.68 € (22.02.2010).

Outerwear 2010 l 89
Table 60: Size of the Swiss clothing industry, 2007-2008 companies have gained more and more influence, for instance
[CHF billion] C&A Switzerland, H&M, Zara and others (see ‘Leading Retailers’
2007 2008 % change and ‘Distribution Channels’).

Imports 6.24 6.28 0.6

6.2.3  Demographic characteristics
Local production 2.06 2.01 -2.2
The Swiss society is an ageing society. There are now many more
Exports 2.19 2.14 -2.6
elderly people than 50 years ago. The number of citizens over 64
External trade balance -4.18 -4.27 2.2 has more than doubled since 1950, while that of those over 80
Source: TVS has even quadrupled. The major age group are those at an age
between 40-44. In contrast, the number of ‘under twenties’ has
6.2.2  Market characteristics increased at a lower pace and has actually declined since the
The Swiss clothing retail market has undergone a severe concen- early seventies. This ageing process is the result of a longer life
tration process with a trend towards factory outlets, (brand) chain expectancy and fewer births. According to birth scenarios drawn
stores and ‘brand sales points’ within larger department stores by the Swiss Federal Statistical Office, this trend will continue over
(‘shop-in-shop’). The increased use of e-commerce in the fashion the next few decades. The population pyramid shown in Figure 6
world has imposed a challenge to the ‘normal’ retailers. Trends are points out in greater detail the recent (year 2008) proportion of the
towards multi-channelling (parallel selling via internet and shops), Swiss male and female population divided into age groups
Total
(based
pre- and after sales support
115 and mass customized offers. Foreign on a total Swiss population of 7.6 million).

Figure 6: Age structure of Swiss population by gender, 2008

105
Real, Index 1970 = 100

95 10 0 +
95-99
male 90-94 female
85-90
85 80-85
7 5 -7 9
7 0 -74
65-69
75 60-64
55-59
50-54
45-49 Clothing
65 40-44
35-39
30-34
25-29
55 2 0 - 24
70
15 -196
72 74 76 78 8 0 8 2 84 98 8 8 9 0 9 2 9 4 9 6 9 8 0002 004 06 08
19 19 19 19 19 19 19 19 101-14 19 19 19 19 19 19 2200 2 20 20
5-9
0-4

0.35 0.30 0.25 0.20 0.15 0.10 0.05 0.00 0.00 0.05 0.10 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.35

Population in millions

Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base

90 l Outerwear 2010
6.2.4  Retail sales by categories
The clothing sales increased by an average of 1.6% from 2000
to 2008. The total sales index grew in the same period by an ave-
rage of 1.8%. Clothing sales fell by 3.0% from 2007 to 2008. Data
about the specific sales for outerwear are not available, however,
Figure 7 gives a good indication on the total sales tendencies and
clothing from 1970 to 2008.

Figure 7: Sales volume index for total sales and clothing sales,
1970 - 2008

Source: BFS

Outerwear 2010 l 91
Figure 8: Production and import costs for textile and clothing,
2002 – 2009 (Index 2003 = 100)

110

Local prduction cost

108

106

104
Price Index

Import cost
102

100

98

96

94
2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009

Source: BFS

The sales volume of outerwear has grown from CHF 1.00 billion in
2000 to CHF 1.34 billion in 2008, an increase of 34%. The sales
volume of underwear has declined by 20.5% in the same period.
The total turnover increased by 21.8% from 2000 to 2008. Table 61
indicates the sales developments of the major product segments
outerwear, underwear and accessories. Sales have dropped from
2007 to 2008 by -2.2%.

92 l Outerwear 2010
Table 61: Size of the Swiss clothing market, 2000-2008
[CHF billion]
2000 2006
Outerwear 1.00 1.31
Underwear 0.44 0.00
Accessories 0.21 0.31
Total 1.65 1.62
Source: TVS – Note: All data based on estimation
According to desk research carried out in Switzerland, the follow-
ing product groups have the best sales prospects in Switzerland:
• Young and trendy Sportswear/Casual wear
• Jeans wear (either branded or on a value for money basis)-
Strict displacement competition
• Well-known street wear brands in the mid price range
• Fashionable products at an ‘acceptable’ price level mainly
offered by chains
• High-end designer brands
• Environmentally friendly apparel
The demand for leisure and casual wear has increased continu-
ously over the last few years, especially for the sportswear and
‘smart casual’ segment. Additionally, high-end designer lines can
also be quite successful in Switzerland with its high standard of
living. An ongoing trend is a demand for natural fabrics. Also ‘func-
tional clothing’ e.g. with ‘breath-active fabric’ is selling well.
6.2.5  Consumer behaviour
6.2.5.1  Consumer preferences
Swiss consumers can be defined as ‘hybrid consumers’, as in
other countries. Market analysis has shown that generally spea-
king the consumers are very well informed about the latest trends
in fashion and can be considered to be both sophisticated and
brand conscious. This is the case especially for people with higher
income and a higher standard of living. It is no surprise that well-
known clothing brands are popular among Swiss consumers, as
they are considered status symbols. On the other hand, there are
many ‘cheap’ chain stores with a ‘value-for money- concept’ on the
market which reflects the ‘economic sense’ of the Swiss consumer.
2007 2008 % change 07-08
1.37 1.34 -2.00
0.36 0.35 -2.90
0.33 0.32 -2.30
2.06 2.01 -2.20
Swiss women today can generally be described as fashion ori-
ented without following all fashion trends immediately. They are
usually sure of their taste and prefer basic and ‘practical’ garments
which can be easily mixed and matched. Swiss women occasio-
nally engage in impulse buying, but generally prefer to invest in
high quality basics. Working women prefer simple and elegant
garments of high quality and comfort. The formal office outfit for
working women usually consists of an outfit or suit with matching
blouse or shirt. Matching accessories like shawls, belts, handbags
etc. have gained much more importance in the last 2-3 years and
help to ‘freshen-up’ an existing outfit.
Modern Swiss men have changed their attitude to fashion consi-
derably over the past few years. According to retail trade sources,
the male customers have ‘grown up’ and know what they are loo-
king for: fashionable and comfortable clothing of good quality. The
level of sophistication in men’s attitude is increasing. Well-known
brand names are very popular, especially among label-conscious
young consumers.
Younger people, in particular, are willing and able to pay high
prices for well-known labels. Casual clothing without a known
label in the mid price bracket is also in demand. In general, buyers
aged 25-50 are the most relevant consumer group for apparel,
representing the target group which spends a high proportion of
disposable income on apparel and shoes. Quality, functionality,
price and design, in that order, are the most important factors for
this target group in taking a buying decision.
6.2.5.2  Consumer expenditures
The Swiss population has one of the highest per capita incomes
in the world. Total expenditure per household grew by an average
of 1.9% from 2005 to 2009, while during the same period expen-
diture for clothing and shoes only grew by a yearly average of
1.5%.
Outerwear 2010 l 93
The following table shows the developments of the Swiss
household expenditure from 2005 to 2009.

Table 62: Swiss average household expenditures, 2005-2009 [CHF]

2005 2006 2007 2008* 2009* CAGR 05-08

Total 36’049 36’841 37’816 38’282 38’911 1.90%
Clothing and shoes 1’434 1’450 1’512 1’512 1’523 1.50%
% of total 3.98% 3.94% 4.00% 3.95% 3.91% n.a.

Source: BFS – Note: *Data based on estimation

6.2.6  Price development of clothing

For the last few years, the Swiss clothing market has permitted no
significant price increases. Based on stable procurement costs but
increased costs for personnel, rent, energy etc., the margins in all
sectors have the tendency to become smaller. In this respect, the
profit situation has become much worse for companies that are
concentrated on the national market only. Therefore, many manuf-
acturers are forced to concentrate on high-quality products, niche
marketing, new fashion and exclusive lines or on export markets.
The Swiss price index increased continuously but very slowly from
2005 to 2008 at an average rate of 1.2%. In fact, there has been
practically no inflation in recent years. Prices for clothing and shoes
have decreased since 2005 by an average rate of 2.0%. More
details can be taken from the table below.

Table 63: Swiss national consumer price index, 2005-2008

2005 2006 2007 2008 CAGR 05-08
Clothing and shoes 92.3 94.1 94.3 98.1 2.00%
Housing and energy 98.7 101.4 103.6 108.6 3.20%
Food, beverages, tobaco 101.3 101.2 101.8 104.9 1.10%
Total national consumer price index 100.0 100.5 101.2 103.7 1.20%

Source: BFS – Note: Index 2005 = 100

94 l Outerwear 2010
6.3 Imports. 6.3.2  Outward Processing Trade (OPT)
The outsourcing of local production process to low wage countries
6.3.1  Total imports is continuing. Thus, the outward processing trade (OPT) of clothing
Switzerland has an extremely liberal import regime for textiles manufacturers in Switzerland has increased too in the last few
(no import limitations, and some of the lowest import duties in the years and contributed to the growth of the Swiss clothing industry.
world).
There are no detailed statistics available for the last few years,
Clothing imports have increased from CHF 4.8 billion in 1990 to as the import data are no longer specified for OPT and non-OPT
CHF 6.3 billion in 2008, this corresponds to a compound annual clothing imports. A more detailed analysis is therefore not possible.
growth rate of 1.5%. More details can be taken from the table
below, which shows the clothing import developments into Switzer- 6.3.3  Largest suppliers
land from 1990 to 2008. Table 65 summarises the major countries supplying outerwear to
Switzerland. The neighbouring countries Germany and Italy re-
Table 64: Swiss clothing imports, 1990-2008 [CHF billion] main the most important clothing suppliers for Switzerland. Almost
55% of the clothing imported originates from these two EU coun-
1990 2000 2007 2008 CAGR
90-08 tries. Professional and advanced marketing by the foreign brands,
Outerwear 4.0 4.4 4.9 4.9 1.10% quick and easy communication and overnight truck deliveries are
important reasons for this dominant position.
Underwear 0.5 0.7 0.8 0.8 2.60%
Accessories 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.5 2.90%
Most of the well known European brands are at least partially pro-
Total 4.8 5.4 6.2 6.3 1.50% duced or finished in low labour cost countries, whether in Eastern
Source: EZV Europe, North Africa or elsewhere.
The EU remains the by far most important trading partner in
clothing for Switzerland. EFTA countries no longer have any impor-
tance as suppliers. The supply from developing countries incre-
ases and has gained competitiveness regarding design, fashion
and qualitative aspects.

Table 65: Largest supplying countries of clothing, 2000-2008 [CHF

million]

Position Country 2000 2007 2008 CAGR 2000-08

1 Germany 1’662.9 1’944.3 1’949.6 2.01%
2 Italy 968.2 1’547.7 1’489.0 5.53%
3 China 627.6 625.7 653.4 0.50%
4 France 486.0 496.5 533.4 1.17%
5 Turkey 147.7 156.3 150.8 0.26%
6 Austria 152.4 146.4 148.1 -0.36%
7 India 113.1 145.4 142.3 2.91%
8 Spain 98.6 124.5 137.7 4.26%
9 Netherlands 76.1 128.5 133.3 7.26%
10 Bangladesh 153.0 106.5 114.1 -3.60%
Total 10 countries 4’485.6 5’421.8 5’451.7 2.47%
Total worldwide 5’396.3 6’241.5 6’280.5 1.91%

Source: EZV

Outerwear 2010 l 95
6.4 Trade structure.
6.4.1  Developments in the retail trade
The liberalization of regulations governing clearance sales in the
retail trade since 1997 has enabled Swiss retailers to initiate sales
all year round, and not just during fixed periods. While smaller
retailers in particular fear that the department stores and other big
clothing stores will continue to put additional pressure on prices
and margins by starting the summer and winter sales earlier each
year, other trade sources mentioned the positive effect the libe-
ralization has on shops forced to liquidate their goods in order to
renovate or move the store.
The sales volume in the clothing market has shrunk to its lowest
level in the year 2000 and recovered from then on. This recovery is
also due to the cessation of the import/export quotas on January
1st, 2005 which had specially protected the European markets
from cheap imports from China for years.
Those groups who are most investing in clothes at present will
also have the strongest population growth within the coming years,
basically the age group from 35 to 65 years. People of the age
Figure 9: Sales volume index for total sales and clothing sales, 1970 -2008
Source: BFS
96 l Outerwear 2010
group between 45 and 54 have been strong consumers already
in the past, and this specific age group will influence the market
positively.
In general, the situation of the Swiss clothing retail market remains
difficult, mainly due to more and more competition from foreign
chains (Mango, Zara, H&M, C&A Switzerland) but also Swiss
retailers growing stronger like Tally Weijl or Vögele. The specia-
lised smaller and independent retailers are under pressure and
often can only exist by ‘mixing different labels’ to be attractive for a
specific target group. There is a continuing trend to verticalization
at Swiss retail level, meaning to manage and control the whole
sourcing and distribution process from design of the collection
and production down to the distribution of the product range in
self-owned retail outlets. This sales concept means a strict supply
chain management and is increasingly used also by department
stores and chains like Globus building up their own ‘retail brands’.
The sales volume of the Swiss clothing industry in 2008 reached
about CHF 2.01 billion with a share of 67% for the outerwear
clothing. Local clothing production decreased by 2.2% from 2007
to 2008. Exports also decreased from CHF 2.19 billion in 2007 to
CHF 2.14 billion in 2008 (-2.6%).
6.4.2  Leading retailers
The following clothing retailers are the important stores and shops
in the Swiss market. Price competition is fierce and deemed dan-
gerous by experts as customers are getting used to special offers.
The biggest market players are H&M, Vögele, C&A Switzerland,
Zara, the PKZ Group and department stores such as COOP, Glo-
bus, Migros and Manor.
The Swedish HENNES & MAURITZ is currently the market leader.
Established in Switzerland in the year 1978, H&M now operates
73 stores throughout the country. It had a turnover of CHF 846
million in 2009. H&M does not produce itself but has a network of
more than 700 suppliers. 60% of production is placed in Asia. A
key factor in success seems to be the strategy of cost leadership
backed by the globally operating Swedish headquarters.
CHARLES VÖGELE MODE AG is a Swiss-based fashion chain
operating in Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Belgium, The Nether-
lands, Czech Republic, Poland, Hungary and Slovenia. In 2009,
Vögele had 7'639 employees and 855 sales branches. Group
turnover was CHF 1'689 million € in 2008/09. Vögele’s primary
market strategy traditionally has been low price and still is, though
effort has been made to ensure high quality as well. Two new
corporate sectors have been created; “sourcing” and “new channel
development”. This new sectors will strengthen Vögele's market
position.
CHARLES VÖGELE GROUP does not have production centres
of its own. All clothes are obtained from external suppliers. Most
purchase orders (about 95%) are placed directly with manufactu-
rers all over the world and produced with Vögele own-labels. By
the vertical organization, the costs are optimized and high quality
standards can be maintained. Vögele runs a clear compliance
strategy, expecting sustainability and responsibility of its suppliers,
e.g. by following certain minimum social standards, environmental
rules and product safety standards. The range consists of women's
wear (59%), men's wear (31%) and children's wear (10%).
The GLOBUS GROUP with its flagship store in Zurich employs
2'630 employees and achieves a total sales volume of about CHF
815 million yearly on a net selling space of 55'800 sq. m. With
a square metre sales volume of over CHF 14'600 per year it is
one of the most productive department stores of the world. The
GLOBUS GROUP belongs to the MIGROS AG. The Migros Group,
which is still operated as a cooperative, is the Swiss market leader
in retailing but not in the clothing market. Migros has over 15% of
Globus' shares.
Migros puts high efforts in sustainability, fair trade and social re-
sponsibility of the company towards its own workers, its suppliers
and society in general (‘Clean Clothes Campaign’). In 2008 the
group's total turnover was CHF 25.75 billion (+13.5%). Migros has
its own sourcing network for clothing all over the world, but also
buys from European based producers and wholesalers.
As of 2009 C&A has 96 stores in Switzerland. The market strategy
aims at being a clothing house for the whole family with good
prices and quality. It sells all kind of mid-priced clothing and aims
to extend market share. However, C&A does not buy separately
through their branch in Switzerland, but from Düsseldorf/Germany
and the C&A purchasing centre EBSCO in Brussels.
The PKZ GROUP with 495 employees in total owns several
clothing chains. PKZ with 58 stores concentrates on men's wear
with quality clothing of different labels. Burger is a men's wear
shop. Feldpausch focuses on women's wear, Bluedog is a young
fashion casual wear chain. In 2008, PKZ sold goods to more than
1.1 million customers.
The COOP GROUP runs quite varied store formats ranging from
food to non-food and services. Coop offers a unique mix from
branded articles to own brands and special brands (like Coop
‘Naturaplan’). Numerous products of the Coop are from production
plants of their own or from suppliers with whom they work very
closely. The sales volume in the retail business reached CHF 19.3
billion in 2008 which corresponds to a 17.2% of the Swiss market
share. Over 53'000 employees work for the Coop Group.
MANOR is the largest department store chain in Switzerland. It
belongs in large part to the Lausanne based family Maus. Other
divisions of the Manor Group are 'Fly' (furniture and home acces-
sories), 'Athleticum' (sports) and 'Jumbo' (Do-it-yourself articles).
The Manor Group is one of the three largest Swiss retailers. The
business employs about 11'000 people altogether. About 2'000
persons are working in the textile division, which represents about
one third of the whole Manor business.
Outerwear 2010 l 97
6.4.3  Distribution channels Table 66: Clothing retail channels by market share [%]
6.4.3.1  Retailers
2001 2004 2009
The distribution channels are grouped according to their basic
Specialists 55 55 55
structure into different kinds of retail businesses. More details
Non-specialists
about the development of the market share of the retail outlets can
Department/variety stores 15 13 12
be taken from following table. The data indicates that the textile
specialist stores play a dominant role among the clothing distribu- Home shopping companies 11 11 11
tors in Switzerland. These specialists had a constant market share Hyper- and supermarkets 10 10 13
of 55% over the last years. They include chain stores and the Other 9 11 9
independent retailers / boutiques and other specialised clothing Total 100 100 100
retailers (including fur and leather wear outlets). Source: TVS

The following Swiss retailers can be assigned to the specific distri- 6.4.3.1.1  Specialists
bution channels: (including textile specialised retailers and clothing chains)

• Clothing chains with own labels: Charles Vögele, WE-mode, Be- These specialized clothing shops are still the main type of retail
netton, Hennes + Mauritz, C & A, Kookai, Esprit, Tally Weijl, Yendi, outlet for garments in Switzerland, namely chain stores, boutiques
Chicorée, Pimkie, Orsay, Blackout, Zebra, Schaad Mode, Levi‘s and other specialised clothing retailers. The market share of these
Store, Mango, Zara shops has remained stable over the past years at around 55%.

• Clothing retailers with a ‘brand concept’: PKZ/BlueDog/Burger/
Feldpausch, Schild, Beldona, Fein-Kaller, Bongenie-Grieder,
Herren Globus, Spengler
• Department stores: Globus, Manor, Coop, Jelmoli, Loeb, Migros
and other department stores
• Home shopping companies: Cornelia, Heine-Versand, Goldener
Schnitt, Charles Veillon, Ackermann, Spengler, Jelmoli, Vögele,
Damart Versand, Vedia, Bader. Walz and others
• Hyper- and Supermarkets: Migros, Coop, Denner, Aldi Schweiz,
Lidl Schweiz, Spar, Volg
• Other Distributors (sport shops, sport specialist stores, various
distributors) hold a market share of 9%.
Low-price shops are not very popular in Switzerland as the con-
sumers look for more than just low prices. For mid-price apparel,
department stores and mail order companies are still appropriate
and well accepted distribution channels.
The major distribution channel among the textile specialist retai-
lers in Switzerland are the clothing stores with several outlets.
Apart from the national clothing multiples Vögele, Schild, and
PKZ, there are many foreign retailers present in the Swiss clothing
market.
Several foreign chains that are active in Switzerland must be men-
tioned, such as the Swedish HENNES & MAURITZ GROUP, the
Spanish retailer ZARA, the German ESPRIT, the Italian fashion
company MAX MARA (aiming at international female shoppers)
and the Danish VERO MODA as well as the Spanish MANGO.
MANGO is a Spanish franchise company owning 13 shops in
Switzerland, 1'220 all over the world including online-retailing
(Mango MNG Group).
ZARA is one of eight fashion brands retailers belonging to the
Inditex group which lays stress on high vertical integration as a
strategic factor in competition. Zara first opened in 1975 in Spain
and is now present in over 40 countries with 1'188 stores. All of
them have been designed to create a special atmosphere that will
allow the client to feel the pleasure of buying fashion. The desig-
ners create new fashion that hits the market twice a week.
The turnover was € 9.4 billion (2007) and € 10.4 billion (2008).
Zara's share within the Inditex Group is 65.6%. In Switzerland,
Zara has had 10 stores since 2002.

98 l Outerwear 2010
Another new clothing retailer is VERO MODA with 38 shops. Vero
Moda Switzerland belongs to ‘Bestseller Wholesale’. Bestseller is
a family-owned clothing company founded in Denmark in 1975.
Today Bestseller comprises 10 brands including Vero Moda.
The Swiss chain TALLY WEIJL is another international ‘textile suc-
cess story’. The market target is ‘the woman who likes to be sexy’.
TALLY WEIJL operates 74 shops in Switzerland. With a turnover
of 500 mn CHF in 2008 and more than 500 shops in 30 countries,
TALLY WEIJL has become an important player.
Market share: 55%, Trend: Stable at 55%
6.4.3.1.2 Department/variety stores
Department stores play the second most important role among the
distribution channels, with a market share of 12% in 2009. Their
market share has declined since 2001 (15%).
One of the major department stores in Switzerland is GLOBUS
AG, a department store with branches in all major Swiss cities,
which sells fashion for men, women and children in the mid and
upper price range, as well as fashion accessories, general consu-
mer products and food.
Another major Swiss player is the MANOR AG, a department
store with branches in the whole of Switzerland, operating clothing
departments for men, women and children in the lower to mid pri-
ce category, including fashion accessories and general consumer
products.
The LOEB HOLDING (a traditional family company in Bern) is a
department store with five outlets. Loeb owns several clothing and
non-clothing companies and has a total turnover of CHF 111.4
million (2008/09). The five Loeb department stores only represent
one part of the Loeb Holding.
JELMOLI AG is a department store with significant apparel sales
for men, women and children featuring international brands
concentrated on the mid to upper price range. With its ‘two-line
business strategy’ - retail business and retail real estate business -
Jelmoli has managed to change the original department store into
a successful, growing and profitable specialities retail business
unit. Due to use of synergies at retail level, high profitability has
been achieved.
Market share: 12%, Trend: Declining
99 l Outerwear 2010
6.4.3.1.3 Home shopping companies
The mail-order business is the fourth most important retail channel
for clothing in Switzerland. The market share of mail-order houses
in Switzerland remained stable at 11% over the last years.
Market share: 11%, Trend: Stable
6.4.3.1.4  Hyper- and supermarkets
Hyper- and supermarkets are the second most important retail
channel for clothing after the specialists. The market share in 2009
was 13%.
MIGROS and COOP with their stores are the largest retailers in
Switzerland, with activities in super- and hypermarkets.
Denner is the leading Swiss food discounter. Denner has a consi-
stent discount policy: Lowest prices combined with highest quality
with a limited number of articles.
Aldi steped in the Swiss market in 2005 and achieved in 2009 an
estimated turnover of 900 mn CHF with 100 markets. Aldi is known
mainly as food retailer but offers on a weeky changing base a wide
range of garments at a very low price.
Market share: 13%, Trend: Increasing
6.4.3.1.5  Others
This category primarily includes sport shops, sport specialist
stores, street markets and ex factory sales (directly from the
fashion manufacturer through ‘factory outlet centres’). Another
form of distribution is ‘consumer fairs’. For the manufacturer from
abroad, this target group is very difficult to approach as they nor-
mally do not import on their own. They buy mainly from importers/
wholesalers according to their own specifications.
Market share: 9%, Trend: Stable
6.4.3.2  Sales intermediaries
6.4.3.2.1  Clothing manufacturers
The clothing manufacturers in Switzerland face a difficult market
situation. The total turnover of the Swiss clothing industry amoun-
ted to CHF 2.0 billion in 2008.
Swiss clothing manufacturers know the needs of the Swiss custo-
mer, but their domestic production costs are too high to compete
with imports in the lower or mid price range. Thus, most clothing
manufacturers look for production possibilities abroad.
6.4.3.2.2  Central buying associations
One major Swiss central buying association is the ‘Mode Schweiz’
(formerly ‘ez Fashion Center’). It has more than 60 members,
mainly independent retailers. The buying association operates on
the basis of long-term partnerships, often with very close links to
local clothing producers.
emerging countries. Thus, with the general increase of clothing
imports into Switzerland, the importance of Swiss wholesalers and
importers has increased and the ‘need’ for imported goods also for
smaller retailers due to the price pressure in the market has ge-
nerally increased. The situation is unchanged, that a considerable
share of clothing imports into Switzerland is handled by German
importers, as they buy in overseas markets anyway to a very large
extent and can offer the service to neighbouring Swiss retailers as
well.

The members of the buying-association ‘Inter-Sport’ originate from

the active sportswear and sports articles sector, the organisation
is closely linked to the German based Inter-Sport in Heidelberg.
Some of the Swiss clothing retailers are even members in the
larger German buying associations such as Katag in Bielefeld.
6.4.3.2.3  Sales agents
Sales agents for the Swiss market are normally located in the
country where the clothing is imported from, e.g. in the major
Asian cities like Hong Kong, Singapore, Shanghai, New Delhi or
Istanbul.
The overwhelming part of the buying process is handled by the
importing retailer directly. Clothing manufacturers from abroad
must contact these ‘sourcing offices’ in their respective country or
contact the buyer at the retailer’s or manufacturer’s headquarter
directly in Switzerland.
6.4.3.2.4  Importers / wholesalers
Analysis has revealed that the large majority of Swiss importers
are distributors for foreign European brands selling into Switzer-
land.
6.5 Swiss fashion trade fairs.
Reliable trade sources have repeatedly mentioned that the par-
ticipation in European fashion trade fairs by manufacturers from
emerging or developing countries, frequently visited by Swiss
buyers, are the best and most efficient way to establish initial
contacts with Swiss wholesalers and distributors.
The most important Swiss trade event for men’s, women’s and
children’s wear at the ‘TMC Fashion Centre’ in Zürich (TMC), it has
a clear national character. Participation in these so called ‘selling
days’ (to the retailers) are restricted to agents running a showroom
in the TMC. The ‘Textile & Mode Center’ (TMC) was set up as a
wholesale centre for textiles and clothing in August 1978.
Swiss buyers, whether they are in charge of department stores,
specialized retailers, importers, Home shopping companies tend
to visit trade fairs mostly for information purposes, but also to find
new contacts.
Clothing fairs in other European countries are quite popular
among Swiss retailers.

Often, such importers have their own shop or boutique with high- Table 67: Swiss fashion trade fairs 2010
priced clothing and fear low quality imports. Only a few show some
Trade fair Date Location
interest in imports from outside Europe. The situation remains
unchanged, that most of the small retailers/importers are not in the TMC men 08. - 11.02.2010 Zurich
position to order sufficient quantities, thus orders e.g. from Asia TMC dessous 15. - 18.02.2010 Zurich
or South America will not be worthwhile for them. Even middle- TMC women 15. - 18.02.2010 Zurich
sized retailers are sometimes reluctant to do so, but regret at the TMC kids 22. - 25.02.2010 Zurich
same time not having the possibility to source from developing and TMC sport 22. - 04.03.2010 Zurich
TMC sport 22. - 04.03.2010 Zurich
Source: Auma, TMC

Outerwear 2010 l 100

6.6 List of major buyers
in Switzerland.
Clothing multiples

Bernie‘s AG Product range: Herren Globus Zentrale Product range: Depart-

Postfach 3925 high fashion & casual Industriestraße 171 ment store for men
CH - 8021 Zürich Price segment: CH - 8957 Spreitenbach Price segment:
Tel.: +41 43 244 75 75 high price level Tel.: +41 58 455 30 30 mid-priced items
Fax: +41 43 244 75 76 Number of outlets: 5 Fax: +41 58 455 31 88 Number of outlets: 22
www.bernies.ch www.herrenglobus.ch

Blue Dog Product range: Jeans, Jeans & Co. AG Product range:
(company: PKZ Feldpausch) sports- and casual wear Haldenstr. 1 casual wear
Bahnhofstrasse 46 Price segment: mid and CH - 6340 Baar Price segment:
CH - 8010 Zürich high price level Tel.: +41 41 768 60 50 mid price level
Tel.: +41 44 736 33 33 Number of outlets: 12 Fax: +41 41 768 60 59 Number of outlets: 10
Fax: +41 44 736 33 00 Note: brand and fashion www.jeans-co.ch
www.bluedog.ch oriented – exclusive
retailer Modehaus MODEVA AG Product range:
Muttenzerstr. 109 womenswear
Bon Genie Product range: CH - 4133 Pratteln Price segment:
Brunschwig & Cie SA all kinds of clothing Tel.: +41 61 821 91 91 high price level
34, rue du Marché Price segment: Fax: +41 61 821 92 20 Number of outlets: 26
CH - 1204 Genève mid to high price level www.modeva.ch
Tel.: +41 22 818 11 11 Number of outlets: Bon-
Fax: +41 22 818 11 99 nard u. Cie 3 Pasito-Fricker AG Product range: womens-
www.bongenie-grieder.ch shops, Bon Genie 7, Pfadackerstr. 7 wear, menswear, shoes
Grieder 7, 10 boutiques CH - 8957 Spreitenbach Price segment: mid and
under Bon Genie Tel.: +41 56 418 17 77 high price level
www.pasito.ch Number of outlets: 18
Charles Vögele AG Product range:
Gwattstrasse 15 all kind of clothing PKZ Burger-Kehl & Co. Product range: all kind of
CH - 8808 Pfäffikon Price segment: Bahnhofstrasse 46 clothing incl. jeans wear
Tel.: +41 55 416 71 11 low price level CH - 8010 Zürich Price segment: mid and
Fax: +41 55 410 37 43 Number of outlets: 157 Tel.: +41 44 736 33 33 high price level
www.voegele.ch Fax: +41 44 736 33 00 Number of outlets: 30
www.pkz.ch
Fein-Kaller & Co. AG Product range: menswear
Bachmattstr. 53 and womenswear Schaad Mode Product range: Women’s
CH - 8048 Zürich Price segment: Tannewäg 1 outerwear for best age
Tel.: +41 44 434 83 83 high price level CH – 8197 Rafz Price segment:
Fax: +41 44 434 83 43 Number of outlets: 6 www.schaadmode.ch mid price level
www.fein-kaller.ch Number of outlets: 20

Schild AG Product range: clothing for

Zentralverwaltung men and women
CH - 6002 Luzern Price segment:
Tel.: +41 41 429 55 55 mid price level
Fax: +41 41 429 57 57 Number of outlets: 41
www.schild.ch
101 l Outerwear 2010
Clothing multiples

TALLY WEIJL Trading AG Product range: Manor AG Product range:

Service and Support Center womenswear Rebgasse 34 all kind of clothing
Viaduktstrasse 42 Price segment: CH - 4058 Basel and textile
CH-4051 Basel high price level Tel.: +41 61 686 11 11 Price segment:
Tel: +41 (0)61 568 60 00 Number of outlets: Fax: +41 61 681 11 92 mid price level
Fax: +41 (0)61 568 62 00 74 (500 worldwide) www.manor.ch Number of outlets: 80
contact@tally-weijl.com stores
www.tally-weijl.com
Schaufelberger AG Product range: men’s and
Wartmann AG Product range: Bälliz 26 womenswear, textiles
Marktgasse 45 / Postfach womenswear CH - 3600 Thun Price segment: mid level
CH - 3001 Bern Price segment: Tel.: +41 33 225 37 37
Tel.: +41 31 320 18 18 mid price level Fax: +41 33 225 37 38
Fax: +41 31 312 16 55 Number of outlets: 26 www.schaufelberger-thun.ch
www.mode-wartmann.ch (stores, shops, boutiques
also as a part in other
businesses)

Table 19: Mail order companies

Table 18: Department stores Ackermann Versandhaus AG Product range: professi-

Fürstenlandstrasse 35 onal wear, ladies’, men’s,
Globus AG Headquarter Product range: CH - 9001 St. Gallen childrenswear
Eichstrasse 27 all kind of clothing Tel.: +41 848 85 85 11 Price segment:
CH - 8045 Zürich Price segment: low and Fax: +41 848 85 85 12 mid price level
Tel.: +41 44 455 21 11 mid price level kundendienst@ackermann.ch Note: no outlets, only mail
Fax: +41 44 463 35 02 Number of stores: 12 www.ackermann.ch order
www.globus.ch
BON´A PARTE MODE AG Product range:
Jelmoli AG Product range: all kind of Fürstenlandstrasse 35 Men’s and womenswear,
Seidengasse 1 clothing and textile CH - 9001 St. Gallen boys’ and girls’
CH - 8001 Zürich Price segment: mid and Tel.: +41 848 44 08 81
Tel.: +41 44 220 44 11 high price level Fax: +41 848 44 08 85
Fax: +41 44 220 40 00 Number of outlets: 1 large www.bonaparte.ch
www.jelmoli.ch outlet in Zürich - also
includes mail order
catalogue Happy Size-Company Product Range:
Versand-handels AG men’s and womenswear
Postfach Companies: Happy Size
LOEB AG Product range: CH - 9025 St. Gallen and Men
Bälliz 39 all kind of products Tel.: +41 848 55 66 83
CH - 3600 Thun Price segment: Fax: +41 848 55 66 84
Tel.: +41 33 227 51 51 mid price level www.happy-size.ch
Fax: +41 33 227 51 52 Number of outlets: 10
www.loeb.ch Heine Product range:
Stephanie Lerch ladies’, men’s, childrens-
Postfach 8088 Zürich wear
Tel.: +41 0848 80 00 60 Price segment:
www.heine.ch mid and high
service@heine.ch

Outerwear 2010 l 102

Table 19: Mail order companies
Jelmoli Versand AG
Postfach
CH - 8088 Zürich
Tel.: +41 848 840 300
Fax: +41 848 840 305
www.jelmoli.ch
La Redoute CH SA
Rue de la Gare 13
CH - 1820 Montreux 1 VD
Tel.: +41 21 966 50 00
Fax: +41 21 966 50 01
menswear24.ch
Momasi SA
Avenue de la Gare 42
CH - 2800 Delémont
Tel.: +41 79 828 75 77
www.menswear24.ch
Mona Versand GmbH & Co.
Wehrstr. 12
CH - 9202 Gossau
Tel.: +41 71 314 83 00
Fax: +41 71 314 83 09
www.mona.ch
Rotex Versand
Industrie Wet 4042
CH - 4614 Hägendorf
Tel.: +41 62 216 43 43
Fax: +41 62 216 43 45
www.rotex.ch
Spengler Versand AG
Fürstenlandstrasse 35
CH - 9001 St. Gallen
Tel.: +41 71 274 61 61
Fax: +41 71 274 61 62
www.spengler.ch
Tchibo (Schweiz) AG
Industriestrasse 19
CH- 8304 Wallisellen
Tel: +41 (0)43/233 45 00
Fax: +41 (0)43/233 45 90
kundenservice@tchibo.ch
www.tchibo.ch
103 l Outerwear 2010
Product range: all kinds of
clothing and textile
Price segment:
mid and high
Product range: ladies’,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment:
mid and high
Product range: Menswear
Product range:
ladies’, menswear
Grocery super- and hypermarkets
Product range:
professional wear, leisure
wear
Product range: all kind of
clothing and textile
Price segment:
mid price level
Product range: ladies’,
men’s, childrenswear
Forecast for 2010: 100
shop-in-shops with COOP
Veillon SA
Route de Buyère 2
CH - 1017 Lausanne
Tel.: +41 21 706 92 17
Fax: +41 21 706 98 14
www.veillon.ch
Vögele AG
Gwattstrasse 15
CH - 8808 Pfäffikon
Tel.: +41 55 416 71 11
Fax: +41 55 410 37 43
www.voegele.ch
Wullehus-Mode Versandhaus
AG
Emmentalstr. 4
CH - 3510 Konolfingen
Tel.: +41 31 791 01 47
Fax: +41 31 791 10 19
www.wullehus.ch
Aldi Suisse Ag
Zentraleinkauf
Verwaltungsgebäude Z
Postfach 150
CH-8423 Embrach-Embraport
www.aldi-suisse.ch
COOP Schweiz
Thiersteiner Allee 12
CH - 4002 Basel
Tel.: +41-61 336 66 66
Fax: +41-61 336 60 40
www.coop.ch
Denner AG Zentrale
Grubenstrasse 10
CH - 8045 Zürich
Tel.: +41 44 455 11 11
www.denner.ch
Product range: ladies’,
men’s, childrenswear
Product range:
all kind of clothing
Price segment: low price
level
Product range:
all kind of clothing
for age group 40+ as
target group
Price segment:
mid price level
Number of outlets: 4
shops + mail order
Product range:
high fashion & casual
Price segment:
low price level
Number of outlets: 100
Product range:
all kind of products
Price segment: low and
mid price level
Number of outlets: 11
department
stores, more than 1’700
shops
Number of outlets in CH:
430 stores and 300 indivi-
vual retail traders
Grocery super- and hypermarkets

Jumbo Markt AG Product range: Alumo Textil AG a ma chère AG

Industriestrasse 33
CH - 8305 Dietlikon
Tel.: +41 44 805 54 54
Fax: +41 44 805 54 50
www.jumbo.ch
all kinds of clothing Zielstrasse 38
Price segment: very low CH - 9050 Appenzell
price level Tel.: +41 71 788 91 55
Number of outlets: 39 Fax: +41 71 788 91 54
www.alumo.ch
(produces shirts)
Dufourstrasse 167
8008 Zürich
Tel.: +41 43 456 30 01
Fax. +41 43 456 30 09
info@a-ma-chere.ch
www.a-ma-chere.ch

Lidl Schweiz DL GmbH, Product range: Angéloz Michel SA Beca Ferretti SA

Neckarsulm
Zweigniederlassung Wein-
felden
Dunantstrasse 14
CH - 8570 Weinfelden
www.lidl.ch
Migros-Genossenschaft-
Bund
Limmatstrasse 152
CH - 8005 Zürich
Tel.: +41 44 277 21 11
Fax: +41 44 277 25 25
www.migros.ch
Swiss clothing manufacturers
all kinds of clothing Route de l’Industrie 3
Price segment: low price CH - 1680 Romont
range with own brands Tel.: +41 26 651 92 80
Number of fashion outlets: Fax: +41 26 651 92 89
30 www.michelangeloz.ch
Forecast until end of info@michelangeloz.ch
2010: another 30 (mid-priced menswear and
womenswear)
Product range:
all kinds of clothing
Price segment: low price Blumer F. & Cie. AG
range with own brands Industrie Mühle 19
Number of fashion outlets: CH - 8762 Schwanden GL
134 Tel.: +41 55 644 11 17
10 Migros Co-operative Fax: +41 55 644 39 49
societies info@f-blumer.ch
www.f-blumer.ch
(men’s, women’s, childrens-
wear)
Via della Posta-Zona 2
CP 257
CH - 6934 Bioggio
Tel.: +41 91 605 57 76
Fax: +49 91 604 67 87
info@becaferretti.ch
www.becaferretti.ch
(menswear, professional
clothes)
Boller, Winkler AG
(no street name)
CH - 8488 Turbenthal
Tel.: +41 52 396 22 22
Fax: +41 52 396 22 00
www.bonjour.ch
(clothing and other textiles)

Algo S.A. Ajotex SA

Brülisauer SA Braunschweig P. & R. AG
Badenerstrasse 274 Route de Coeuve 37-41
Via motta 45 Badener Strasse 120
CH - 8004 Zürich CH - 2900 Porrentruy
CH - 6850 Mendrisio CH - 8026 Zürich
Tel.: +41 44 240 41 66 Tel.: +41 32 465 89 89
Tel.: +41 91 640 64 40 Tel.: +41 44 241 97 30
Fax: +41 44 240 41 67 Fax: +41 32 465 89 85
Fax: +41 91 640 64 44 Fax: +41 44 242 94 28
www.algosa.ch www.jic.ch/ajotex
www.bruli.com (mid- and high-priced coats
(high priced womenswear) (men / women / child wear)
info@bruli.com and
(menswear) jackets for women)
Akris Hauptsitz alba Albin Breitenmoser
Felsenstrasse 40 AG Calida AG Bodywear Camiro sagl
CH-9001 St.Gallen Zielstrasse 38 Industrie Münigen, Strada Cantonale
Schweiz CH - 9050 Appenzell CH - 6210 Sursee CH - 6863 Besazio
Telefon +41 71 22 777 22 Tel.: +41 71 788 91 11 Tel.: +41 41 925 45 25 Tel.: +49 91 646 61 18
Fax +41 71 22 777 00 Fax: +41 71 787 46 58 Fax: +41 41 925 42 84 Fax: +49 91 646 69 95
www.akris.ch info@alba-creation.ch www.calida.com camiro@starsofti.com
akris@akris.ch www.alba-gruppe.ch info@calida.com (menswear)
(very high priced womens- (Professional clothes) (men’s, women’s and
wear) children’s
under- and nightwear)

Outerwear 2010 l 104

Swiss clothing manufacturers
Cavalco Confezioni SA
Via Industria 7
CH - 6826 Riva San Vitale
Tel.: +41 91 648 22 63
Fax: +41 91 648 23 64
www.cavalco.ch
(menswear)
Consitex SA (belongs to Er-
menegildo ZEGNA-Groupe)
Via Laveggio 16,
Casella postale 155
CH- 6850 Mendrisio
Tel.: +41 091 640 76 00
Fax: +41 091 640 76 19
direzione_consitex@zegna-
ermenegildo.it
www.zegna.com
(high priced menswear)
Dürsteler J. & Co. AG
Zürcherstrasse 47
CH - 8620 Wetzikon
Tel.: +41 44 933 60 70
Fax: +41 44 933 60 71
www.faerben.ch
info@faerben.ch
(men’s, women’s and child-
renswear)
Feldinger Gabriel AG
Lettenweg 40
CH - 4123 Allschwil
Tel.: +41 61 481 05 05
Fax: +41 61 481 05 39
(mid-priced items womens-
wear)
Ganzoni & Cie AG
Gröblistrasse 8
CH - 9014 St. Gallen
Tel.: +41 71 279 33 66
Fax: +41 71 274 29 89
www.sigvaris.com
info@sigvaris.com
(men’s, women’s and child-
renswear)
105 l Outerwear 2010
Conceprio SA Hagmann Hosenmode AG
Corzoneso Piano Industriestrasse 9
CH - 6715 Dongio CH - 4657 Dulliken
Tel.: +41 91 871 12 43 Tel.: +41 62 285 55 55
Fax: +41 91 871 25 31 Fax: +41 62 285 55 69
Conceprio.sa@bluewin.ch www.hagman.ch
(men’s and womenswear) info@hagman.ch
(menswear, especially
Dresdensia SA trousers)
Via Fola 13
CH - 6963 Pregassona Herz Heinrich AG Julietta
Tel.: +41 91 971 60 63 Via Campagna 21
Fax: +41 91 971 11 52 CH - 6987 Caslano
(men’s and childrenswear) Tel.: +41 91 606 73 43
Fax: +41 91 606 21 60
www.heinrichherz.ch
(womenswear)
Fabric Frontline Zurich AG Hugo Boss Industries
Ankerstrasse 118 Via Passeggiata 7
CH - 8026 Zürich CH - 6883 Novazzano
Tel.: +41 44 241 64 55 Tel.: +41 91 696 17 17
Fax: +41 44 242 20 02 Fax: +41 91 696 17 78
www.fabricfrontline.ch www.hugoboss.com
info@fabricfrontline.ch info@hugoboss.com
(men’s and womenswear) (menswear)
Kauf AG – The Swiss Shirt
Filtex AG Maker
Teufenerstrasse 1 Rosenbüelstrasse 50
CH - 9001 St. Gallen CH - 9642 Ebnat-Kappel
Tel.: +41 71 221 13 13 Tel.: +41 71 992 60 60
Fax: +41 71 221 13 14 Fax: +41 71 992 60 65
www.filtex.ch www.kauf.ch
info@filtex.ch info@kauf.ch
(women’s and childrens- (shirts for department stores
wear) and mail-order comp.)
Gessner AG leywa GmbH
Florhofstrasse 13 Fabrikstrasse
CH - 8820 Wädenswil CH - 8756 Mitlödi
Tel.: +41 44 789 86 00 Tel.: +41 55 644 46 46
Fax: +41 44 789 86 01 Fax: +41 55 644 46 47
www.gessner.ch www.leywa.ch
info@gessner.ch (men’s, women’s and child-
(womenswear) renswear)
Hanro Ag
BenzburGeg 18
CH - 4410 Liestal 18
Tel.: +41 61 926 88 22
Fax: +41 61 926 88 27
www.hanro.ch
info@hanro.ch
(men’s and women’s under-
and nightwear)
Hofmann + Co AG Kra-
wattenfabrik
Im Eisernen Zeit 51
CH - 8057 Zürich
Tel.: +41 44 362 37 54
Fax: +41 44 362 37 19
www.hofmannties.ch
(men’s accessories and ties)
ISA Sallmann AG
Weinfelderstrasse 15
CH - 8580 Amriswil
Tel.: +41 71 414 24 44
Fax: +41 71 414 24 55
www.isabodywear.ch
(men’s, women’s and child-
renswear)
Lehsa Strickwarenfabrik
Eichenweg 16
CH - 4900 Langenthal
Tel.: +41 62 922 50 44
Fax: +41 62 923 08 38
www.lehsa.ch
(men’s and women’s knit-
wear)
Madie’s Fashion S.A.
Via Gaggiolo 5
CH - 6855 Stabio
Tel.: +41 91 647 11 53
Fax: +41 91 647 32 53
(womenswear)
Swiss clothing manufacturers

Mammut Sports Group AG Metzler Switzerland & Co. Zimmerli Textil AG

Headoffice Switzerland
Pf, Birren 5
CH-5703 Seon
Tel. +41 (0) 62 769 81 81
Fax. +41 (0) 62 769 83 11
www.mammutsportsgroup.
com
www.mammut.ch
www.toko.ch
(sportswear, outdoor jackets)
Mitloedi Textildruck AG
Fabrikstrasse
CH - 8756 Mitlödi
Tel.: +41 55 647 88 33
Fax: +41 55 647 88 13
www.mitloedi.com
mail@mitloedi.com
(womenswear)
AG
Hauptstrasse 33
CH - 9436 Balgach
Tel.: +41 71 722 21 43
Fax: +41 71 722 72 29
www.metzlerhemdem.ch
(shirts and blouses, T-shirts
& sweatshirts for indep.)
Buying associations
Noga Mode S.A.
Via Orti 1
CH - 6928 Manno
Tel.: +41 91 605 48 88
Fax: +41 91 605 48 88
www.nogamode.com
(men’s and women’s wear)
Feldstrasse 25
CH - 4663 Aarburg
Tel.: +41 62 791 41 41
Fax: +41 62 791 38 72
www.zimmerli.biz
(high priced underwear)
ez Fashion Center
TMC 3
Talackerstrasse 13
CH - 8065 Zürich
Tel.: +41 44 874 90 10
Fax: +41 44 874 90 19
www.ezfashion.ch
Intersport International
Holding AG
Obere Zollgasse 7
CH - 3072 Ostermundigen
Tel.: +41 31 930 71 11
Fax: +41 31 930 71 21
www.intersport.ch
info@intersport.ch
(jeans and active sportswear
in mid price level)

Strellson AG SwissTex Logistics AG Pandinavia Import Export

Sonnenwiesenstrasse 21
CH - 8280 Kreuzlingen
Tel.: +41 71 686 33 33
Fax: +41 71 688 64 94
www.strellson.com
(high priced men’s and
womenswear)
TOPA Konfektions AG
Birkenstrasse 109
CH - 9443 Widnau
Tel.: +41 71 720 03 05
Fax: +41 71 720 03 07
www.topa-ag.com
(men’s, women’s and child-
renswear,
OPT)
Vollmoeller Textil AG /
Jockey International
Bahnstrasse 21
CH - 8610 Uster
Tel.: +41 44 905 22 22
Fax: +41 44 940 53 33
www.jockey.ch
(men’s and women’s wear)
Funkenstrasse 10
CH - 4800 Zofingen
Tel.: +41 62 745 33 33
Fax: +41 62 745 33 00
www.swisstex.net
(menswear and womens-
wear)
Traxler AG
Unterdorf 7
CH - 8363 Bichelsee
Tel.: +41 71 971 19 43
Fax: +41 71 971 31 29
www.traxler.ch
(knitwear, shirts/blouses,
ecological
clothing men/women)
Zewi und Bébé-Jou AG
Knonauerstr. 58
CH - 6330 Cham
Tel.: +41 41 784 10 00
Fax: +41 41 784 10 01
www.zewiundbebe-jou.ch
info@zewiundbebe-jou.ch
(mid- / high-priced coats
and jakkets for children)
Spitalackerstrasse 63
CH - 3000 Bern 25
Tel.: +41 31 331 40 32
Fax: +41 31 333 06 93
www.pandinavia.ch
info@pandinavia.ch
(Importer/Distributor of men’s
apparel)
Importers / wholesalers
WE Switzerland AG
Im Langacker 16
CH - 5405 Baden-Dättwil
Tel.: +41 56 483 03 83
Fax: +41 56 483 03 70
www.we-fashion.com
(Importer/Distributor of men‘s
apparel, Dutch owned company)

Outerwear 2010 l 106

7. United Kingdom.
7.1 General economic situation.
The UK entered a recession in Q2 of 2008, according to the UK
Office of National Statistics (ONS). The revised ONS figures of
November 2009 showed that the UK had suffered six consecutive
quarters of negative growth. As of the end of November 2009, the
economy had shrunk by 5.8%, making the 2008-2009 recession
the longest since records began. In December 2009, the Office
of National Statistics revised figures for the third quarter of 2009
showed that the economy shrank by 0.2%, compared to a 0.6%
fall the previous quarter.
Britain is lagging behind other major economies including Ger-
many, France, Japan, and the US which all returned to growth in
the second quarter of 2009. Commentators suggest that the UK is
suffering a longer recession than other large European countries,
as a result of government policy dating back to the policies of the
Thatcher government of 1979, in which UK governments have mo-
ved away from supporting manufacturing and focused on the finan-
cial sector. The OECD predicts that the UK will grow 1.6% in 2010.
The unemployment rate recorded by the Labour Force Survey fell
in the fourth quarter of 2009, the first of the big 3 economies in the
EU to do so. On January 26, 2010, it was confirmed that the U.K.
had left its recession, the last major economy in the world to do so.
7.2 The market for outerwear.
7.2.1  Market size
The UK remained the second biggest clothing market in the EU
behind Germany. UK consumers, along with Austrian citizens,
belong to the biggest spenders per capita on clothing in the EU.
While the import increased, the export market decreased in 2008,
the local production stagnated. However, it seems very likely that
the local production and employment will fall in the coming years
and imports will continue to rise.
The British clothing market has a volume of approximately €
51 billion in 2009. Compared to 2008 the market shrunk by -2.8%.

Table 68: Consumption of clothing in the United Kingdom ,

2004 – 2009 [€ billion]

2004 2006 2008 2009* CAGR 04-09

Knitted outerwear 19.83 20.81 21.58 20.98 1.1%

Woven outerwear 22.75 24.31 25.13 24.37 1.4%
Total outerwear 42.58 45.12 46.71 45.35 1.3%
Clothing others 5.64 5.5 5.79 5.68 0.1%
Total clothing 48.22 50.62 52.5 51.03 1.1%

Source: Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *forecast

7.2.2  Market characteristics
A large proportion of British consumers has become more price
sensitive under the slogan: ‘Look good – pay less’. This attitude
towards clothing consumption explains to a large extent the
overwhelming success of the so called British ‘Value Retailers’.
However, some consumers are also willing to buy higher priced
and exclusive clothing.

Most consumers with high income are normally in the age group
between 50 and 60 and manufacturers offering highest quality
garments meet a strong and ever growing market segment in the
UK.

107 l Outerwear 2010

Good quality is also of increasing relevance to the younger consu-
mers. This is underlined by the fact that clothing brands are of the
same importance to the young as to elderly consumers, although
the younger consumers often can not afford the branded items.
Whenever their financial situation allows (often due to the wealth
of their parents) the young like to buy brands (e.g. for jeans) and
are eager to show their fashion awareness.
7.2.3  Demographic characteristics
The UK has a population of 61.0 million inhabitants with slight
increases in population projected for the next 10 years. The age
structure indicates the most suitable consumer groups to address
for the respective product segment.
Figure 10:  Age structure of British population by gender, 2008
Market developments in terms of shifts in the age groups can be
predicted. These demographic forecasts may give hints on how to
address the age group concerning design and marketing. Also, the
kinds of clothing requested may change in the future regarding ge-
neral demand, quality, suitability, comfort standards, basic designs
and colours.
The age groups between 35 and 39 have the highest shares in the
British population today. But the older age groups of 45 to 49 also
play a significant role. In future, the younger consumer segment
will decrease more and more.
Manufacturers from abroad should not neglect the increasing ‘age
group’ of over 39 up to 59 years of age. More details about the
shares and developments of the age groups concerned can be
taken from the following figure.

10 0 +
95-99
male 90-94 female
85-90
80-85
7 5 -7 9
7 0 -74
65-69
60-64
55-59
50-54
45-49
40-44
35-39
30-34
25-29
2 0 - 24
15 -19
10 -14
5-9
0-4

2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 2,5

Population in millions

Source: US Census Bureau, International Data Base

7.2.4  Retail sales by product category
The British market for outerwear shows that the turnover for
women's wear is almost double level compared to men's wear.

As indicated in the table below the retail sales of outerwear

clothing in the UK amounted to a total of approximately € 51
billion in 2009 with a CAGR of 1.3% from 2004 to 2009. The total
clothing retail sales have risen with a CAGR of 1.1% from € 48
billion in 2004 to € 51 billion in 2009.

Outerwear 2010 l 108

Table 69: Turnover of outerwear clothing by gender, 2004 and 2008

2004 2006 2008 2009* CAGR 04-09

Women‘s outerwear 22.61 24.14 24.89 24.19 1.4%

Men’s outerwear 13.33 13.93 14.51 14.06 1.1%
Children’s outerwear 6.64 7.05 7.31 7.10 1.3%
Total outerwear 42.58 45.12 46.71 45.35 1.3%
Total others 5.64 5.50 5.79 5.68 0.1%
Total clothing 48.22 50.62 52.50 51.03 1.1%

Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *forecast

7.2.5  Consumer behaviour
7.2.5.1  Consumer preferences
British women are fashion-conscious and stylish. This leads to an
interest in and desire for new and innovative styles of clothing. The
influence of media, especially magazines, TV and Internet, make
consumers more conscious of the latest fashion trends and prices,
so they are better informed to make a choice than before.
Recent years have seen a trend towards purchasing casual wear
for the office and leisurewear for home, and away from buying
formal wear.
The children’s clothing market is strongly shaped by adult fashion,
with some styles being miniaturised versions of adult ranges. Me-
anwhile youth styles and fashions are opening up a new children’s
niche, with its own characteristics and inspirations. Influences on
children’s fashion from the sports world and the entertainment
sector will continue, even from an increasingly young age.
Although formal wear is more and more substituted by casual
wear, as in other European countries, the UK is still the country
with the highest market share of formal wear. As the table below
shows, the share of formal clothing is at a comparatively high level
of 39% for women and 38% for men. In this context, it should also
be mentioned that in the segment of children‘s clothing, formal
wear is also strong because of the use of school uniforms in Great
Britain.
Casual wear and basic leisurewear in particular have - compared
to other European countries - lesser but increasing importance
among British consumers.

Table 70: Share of outerwear by gender and type, 2004 and 2008

Women Men Children

2004 2008 2004 2008 2004 2008

Formal 40% 39% 39% 38% 19% 18%
Casual 37% 38% 33% 34% 69% 70%
Leisure 17% 18% 21% 21% -* -*
Active sports 6% 5% 7% 7% 12% 12%
Total 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% 100%

Source: Analysis based on Eurostat and Euromonitor – Note: *Included in casual wear

109 l Outerwear 2010

7.2.5.2  Consumer expenditure
The UK remained the second biggest clothing market in the EU
behind Germany. UK consumers, along with Austrian citizens,
belong to the biggest spenders per capita on clothing in the EU.
The next table illustrates household expenditure by the age of the
household reference person. The figures indicate that for men,
expenditure on clothing rises with age, but seems to be quite con-
stant especially for men between 30 and 64, and only falls again at
a higher age. Expenditure for women‘s outerwear is not only higher
in all age categories than for men, but also shows a different life
cycle pattern. Between the age of 30 and 49, average weekly
expenditure is £8.80, between 50 and 64, women’s expenditure
shows nearly the same level at £9.80 weekly. Assuming that the
age of the reference person of the household stands for the age of
the female consumer, it means that 50 to 64 year old women is the
age category with the highest expenditure on clothing. The reason
for this could be sales of luxury items for wealthy clientèle in shops
like Burberry‘s, Barbour and Pringle.
Table 71: Weekly household expenditure by age of household
reference person, 2008 [£]

Less than 30 – 49 50 – 64 65 – 74 75 All households Expenditure share

30 or over
Women‘s outerwear 7.10 8.80 9.80 4.80 3.30 7.60 52.4%
Men’s outerwear 6.20 5.60 5.10 2.60 1.10 4.50 31.0%
Girls’ outerwear 0.50 1.80 0.60 0.40 0.10 1.00 6.9%
Boys’ outerwear 0.40 1.50 0.40 0.20 0.10 0.80 5.6%
Infants’ outerwear 1.10 1.00 0.40 0.30 0.10 0.60 4.1%

Source: ONS
The next table clearly shows that total expenditure per household
has increased with a CAGR of 2.8% over the last years. Expen-
diture on clothing and shoes only increased with a CAGR of 0.9%
over the same period, thus decreasing the share of clothing and
shoes expenditure per household.

Table 72: Average yearly expenditure per household,

2008 [£, 2.4 persons per household]

2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009* CAGR

04-09
Clothing and shoes 2’010 2’045 2’068 2’098 2’099 2’101 0.9%
per household
% of total 5.6% 5.6% 5.4% 5.3% 5.2% 5.1%

Total 35’601 36’838 37’985 39’538 40’598 40’819 2.8%

Source: Analysis based on ONS – Note: *estimation

Outerwear 2010 l 110

7.2.6  Price development of clothing
Clothing prices have been declining since the mid 90’s. The fierce
competition on the UK clothing market has brought down prices
year after year. In most outerwear sectors consumers buy more
items, but the growth of the clothing market in value is lower due to
price deflation.
The following table clearly shows the drop of prices in the clothing
and shoe segment. The CAGR for clothing and shoes is -5.6%
from 2004 to 2009, while Housing, water and fuels and all other
Table 73: Price indices for clothing and shoes, 2004-2009

2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 CAGR 04-09

Clothing and shoes 105.6 100.0 95.8 92.1 86.0 79.2 -5.6%
Housing, water and fuels 94.1 100.0 109.2 114.7 124.5 129.9 6.7%
All items 98.0 100.0 102.3 104.7 108.5 110.8 2.5%
Source: ONS

7.3 Imports.
The UK is the second largest EU importer in terms of value. As
a logical consequence, the ‘Overseas Trade Statistics’ show that
imports for women's and men’s clothing continuously increased
over the last few years. Although the import level of women's wear
is higher than for men's wear, imports of men’s clothing seem to
have grown stronger.

Looking at the total figures in table 74 and table 75, the import
share of women‘s clothing in total imports is higher than that for
men mainly due to a generally higher consumption of women‘s
clothing. Overall outerwear clothing imports (knitted and woven)
have shrunk by -7.7% from 2006 to 2008. Extra EU imports shrunk
by -0.4% in the same time period, thus increasing its share from
69.8% in 2006 to 75.4% in 2008. This is also the main reason for
the constant depreciation in clothing price over the last years.

Table 74 illustrates the import developments of knitted outerwear

from 2006 to 2008. Total import for knitted men's clothing outer-
wear decreased by -18.4% from 2006 to 2008. Extra EU imports
also decreased by a double digit percentage (-12%). Category
61.05 (shirts) had the largest loss with almost -22%.

The imports of knitted outerwear for women or girls have also

decreased from 2006 to 2008 by -1.8%. Extra EU imports increa-
sed by more than 14% in the same time period, thus increasing its
import share from 65.9% in 2006 to 76.7% in 2008.

The total import of knitted products decreased in terms of value

from 2006 to 2008 by approx. -6%. The share of knitted outerwear
imported from countries outside the EU is constantly increasing
and almost reached 80% in 2008.

111 l Outerwear 2010

Table 74: Imports of knitted outerwear by gender and product
categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.01) 3’956 63’968 4’270 59’721 4’595 60’943
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts etc. 15’893 238’259 15’952 214’657 16’564 197’543
(61.03)
Shirts (61.05) 27’722 382’111 25’713 350’661 23’395 299’668
Sub Total 47’570 684’338 45’935 625’039 44’553 558’154
Sub Total Extra EU 40’950 491’269 41’041 473’946 40’594 432’165
For women or girls
Coats, raincoats, anoraks etc. (61.02) 8’677 121’313 7’240 95’603 10’382 102’752
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, dresses, 35’681 579’449 43’510 687’999 38’180 582’970
skirts etc. (61.04)
Blouses and shirts (61.06) 12’129 236’128 22’757 266’213 14’586 234’193
Sub Total 56’487 936’890 73’507 1’049’816 63’148 919’915
Sub Total Extra EU 40’388 617’320 51’110 766’340 52’079 705’281
For both genders
T-shirts, singlets etc. (61.09) 144’336 2’065’244 144’790 2’055’105 133’838 1’737’809
Jersey, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats, 115’833 2’039’585 147’660 2’047’889 135’994 2’146’773
etc. (61.10)
Babies’ garments (61.11) 22’069 329’277 24’398 341’130 26’095 337’135
Garments rubberised, impregnated, etc. 1’248 20’260 1’114 19’013 1’457 23’237
(61.13)
Gloves, mittens and mitts (61.16) 13’294 98’842 12’256 89’997 12’232 85’941
Other made-up clothing accessories 5’670 77’116 4’745 67’368 5’032 69’795
(61.17)
Sub Total 302’450 4’630’324 334’961 4’620’503 314’648 4’400’691
Sub Total Extra EU 256’103 3’504’593 266’336 3’609’066 274’144 3’538’025
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits and swimwear (61.12) 7’074 176’175 8’333 184’808 7’378 150’937
Special garments for professional sporting 10’859 113’593 13’480 144’034 10’169 127’842
or other purposes (61.14)
Sub Total 17’933 289’768 21’813 328’842 17’547 278’779
Sub Total Extra EU 11’881 212’889 17’232 254’978 15’330 220’458
TOTAL 424’440 6’541’320 476’215 6’624’199 439’897 6’157’539
TOTAL EXTRA EU 349’322 4’826’071 375’720 5’104’329 382’147 4’895’930

Source: Eurostat 2009

Outerwear 2010 l 112

Table 75 shows the imports of woven outerwear into the UK. From
2006 to 2008, total imports of women's woven outerwear decre-
ased in value terms at a greater rate than the imports of men's
outerwear. Imports of woven menswear decreased from € 2.7
billion in 2006 to € 2.5 billion in 2008 and.
The import volume of woven men's wear rose from 156 million
tons in 2006 to 162 million tons in 2008. Import prices for woven
menswear decreased significantly.
Woven women's wear imports decreased from 2006 to 2008 by
almost -12% and amounted to € 3.8 billion in 2008. Only the ca-
tegory 62.02 (Coats, anoraks, etc.) increased by 8% in the same
time period.
Total imports of woven outerwear decreased by -9.3% from 2006
to 2008. Extra EU imports decreased with a slower pace of only
-2.1% in the same time period, thus increasing its market-share
from 67% in 2006 to 72% in 2008.

Table 75: Imports of woven outerwear by gender and product

categories, 2006-2008

2006 2007 2008

Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
For men or boys
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. 21’710 359’502 20’881 369’911 20’341 351’689
(62.01)
Suits, jackets, outfits, trousers, shorts, 98’357 1’663’038 104’415 1’679’011 105’214 1’535’886
etc. (62.03)
Shirts (62.05) 36’581 652’979 37’456 649’441 36’527 590’494
Sub Total 156’649 2’675’519 162’752 2’698’363 162’081 2’478’069
Sub Total Extra EU 130’266 1’728’995 141’878 1’786’288 143’674 1’749’527
For women or girls
Coats, anoraks, windcheaters, etc. 29’599 460’550 30’345 516’310 28’759 497’718
(62.02)
Suits, jackets, dresses, skirts, trousers, 157’177 3’054’677 169’674 3’075’113 147’044 2’586’331
etc. (62.04)
Blouses and shirts (62.06) 34’990 773’004 40’630 876’986 31’778 705’993
Sub Total 221’766 4’288’231 240’649 4’468’409 207’580 3’790’043
Sub Total Extra EU 169’804 2’888’038 188’676 2’942’877 174’976 2’746’886
For both genders
Babies garments (62.09) 10’053 174’483 9’481 157’914 10’501 157’695
Others incl. Impregnated (62.10) 18’505 252’097 21’972 265’327 21’478 274’375
Shawls, scarves, mufflers, etc. (62.14) 5’093 94’237 4’808 91’366 6’909 102’397
Ties, bow ties and cravats (62.15) 2’231 56’683 2’738 57’317 2’867 50’887
Gloves, mittens and mitts (62.16) 2’605 23’959 2’196 22’767 1’886 22’723
Other made-up clothing accessories 4’175 54’041 4’938 48’859 4’198 49’004
(62.17)
Sub Total 42’660 655’501 46’132 643’550 47’840 657’081
Sub Total Extra EU 34’421 459’816 38’522 456’032 39’444 473’126

113 l Outerwear 2010

 2006 2007 2008
Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 € Tons 1’000 €
Active Sportswear
Track suits, ski suits (62.11) 23’192 324’627 21’999 277’683 23’839 280’202
Sub Total 23’192 324’627 21’999 277’683 23’839 280’202
Sub Total Extra EU 18’928 212’850 18’451 194’032 20’870 209’111
TOTAL 444’266 7’943’877 471’532 8’088’005 441’341 7’205’395
TOTAL EXTRA EU 353’420 5’289’699 387’527 5’379’229 378’964 5’178’650

Source: Eurostat 2009

7.3.1  Outward Processing Trade (OPT)
The United Kingdom does not have any kind of OPT activities
according to Eurostat.
7.3.2  Largest suppliers of outerwear
According to Textil Forum, UK clothing production rose for the first
time in many years in 2007. It grew by 3% during 2007 and stood
at some € 5.4 billion. In 2008 employment in the clothing sector
remained static at some 77’000. This was the first time that em-
ployment has not fallen, while in 2007 some 8’000 jobs were lost
across the sector.
Table 76 gives a good survey on the performance of the 20 lea-
ding extra-EU clothing suppliers to the UK. The share of clothing
imports from non-EU countries was 75.4% in 2008. In 2008, €
13.4 billion of outerwear was imported to the UK: € 10.1 billion
outerwear from extra-EU and € 3.3 billion from other EU member
states. While the imports from extra-EU decreased by -0.4% from
2006 to 2008, the imports from EU countries declined significantly
by almost 25%.
The three main import countries are China (€ 4.2 billion), Turkey (€
1.2 billion), Bangladesh (€ 0.9 billion).

However, it seems very likely that production and employment will
fall in the coming years and imports will continue to rise. Several
manufacturers of outerwear for men and/or women specialised
themselves in corporate clothing, while other manufacturers shifted
from manufacturing private labels to own branded business.
Looking at the country shares in total import, China maintains the
major part with 31.6% of total imports. Turkey also plays a signifi-
cant role with € 1.2 billion and a share of 9.2%. These two coun-
tries alone represent more than a third of total clothing imports.

Table 76: Largest extra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
1 China 3’104’783 12% 3’491’706 21% 4’233’931
2 Turkey 1’565’951 11% 1’733’457 -29% 1’232’455
3 Bangladesh 934’737 -3% 910’784 -1% 898’775
4 India 780’417 15% 896’957 -6% 840’286
5 Sri Lanka 453’725 1% 458’826 5% 479’894
6 Morocco 339’259 1% 344’258 -19% 280’435
7 Hong Kong 716’548 -26% 532’757 -57% 231’168
8 Vietnam 185’558 8% 200’830 11% 222’950
9 Indonesia 316’589 -13% 274’873 -20% 221’071
10 Pakistan 213’369 3% 219’739 -3% 212’762
11 Mauritius 190’687 2% 195’140 -13% 169’267
12 Egypt 131’667 5% 138’350 1% 139’087

Outerwear 2010 l 114

Intra-EU imports have declined by -22% from 2006 to 2008. Only
Spain had inverse trend and increased its exports to the UK by
18.3% from 2006 to 2008. Italy, Germany and France are the three
main intra-EU exporting countries to the UK.

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
13 Thailand 132’405 -9% 120’539 2% 123’265
14 Cambodia 121’053 0% 121’022 -2% 119’092
15 USA 97’737 4% 101’545 -9% 92’643
16 Tunisia 65’920 0% 66’035 2% 67’132
17 Malaysia 56’163 -4% 53’829 -10% 48’438
18 United Arab Emirates 66’271 -8% 60’791 -22% 47’625
19 Lao 42’311 -25% 31’567 25% 39’485
20 Philippines 61’171 -29% 43’560 -35% 28’346
Extra-EU 27 10’115’771 4% 10’483’559 -4% 10’074’580
Intra-EU 27 4’369’427 -3% 4’228’645 -22% 3’288’354
Total 14’485’198 2% 14’712’204 -9% 13’362’934
Source: Eurostat 2009

Table 77: Largest intra EU supplying countries of outerwear, 2006-2008

Position Country 2006 [‘000 €] Change from 2007 [‘000 €] Change from 2008 [‘000 €]
2006 2007
1 Italy 738’108 7% 791’131 -13% 686’370
2 Germany 508’640 -2% 500’066 -12% 438’308
3 France 572’712 -9% 520’384 -20% 416’824
4 Belgium 473’308 -19% 382’264 -12% 337’874
5 Romania 567’390 24% 704’426 -57% 302’231
6 Netherlands 276’771 -6% 260’715 3% 268’890
7 Spain 186’792 11% 206’940 7% 220’953
8 Portugal 296’902 -12% 260’454 -25% 194’574
9 Ireland 125’169 -8% 114’760 -15% 97’092
10 Denmark 72’452 8% 77’990 -9% 71’084
Intra-EU 27 4’369’427 -3% 4’228’645 -22% 3’288’354
Extra-EU 27 10’115’771 4% 10’483’559 -4% 10’074’580
Total 14’485’198 2% 14’712’204 -9% 13’362’934
Source: Eurostat 2009

115 l Outerwear 2010

7.4 Trade structure.
7.4.1  Developments in the retail trade
Following M&S survey, the clothing market faced a difficult year. In
this highly competitive sector several factors are driving shopping
trends on the High Street.
Older customers, who are more cautious about spending, are
increasingly buying on a ‘needs’ basis or replacing staples with
investment pieces. They are looking for clothing that lasts beyond
the current season, which can be dressed up or down and acces-
sorised.
Additionally, the economic climate has forced customers to
consider carefully before buying, prompting retailers to introduce
promotions and discounts to entice them in, especially during
Christmas. This resulted in customers widening their store choice
so they could cherry pick the best offers, and use deals to ‘trade
up’ to better quality items for less money.
Under-35 customers are more unpredictable in their approach to
spending. While spending initially slowed at the start of 2008/09,
they quickly returned to the impulse shopping that characterised
their spending before the credit crunch. They tend to buy for the
moment and gravitate to cheap fashion items – cutting back spen-
ding in other parts of their lives so they can afford to shop.
The retailing structure for clothing in the UK is one most concentra-
ted in the world. Clothing chains, value and discount retailers and
variety stores are the main retail channels for outerwear clothing
in the UK. The three largest players are Marks & Spencer (M&S),
the Next Group and the Arcadia Group. The number and variety
of retail channels which offer outerwear clothing has increased in
recent years.
The UK accounted for around 34'500 clothing outlets in 2008, of
which the number of independent clothing retailers can be esti-
mated at almost 10'000, operating through 13'000 outlets. Some
independent sport shops in the UK have joined a buying group,
of which the most important are Intersport (162 stores) and Sport
2000 (183).
The Arcadia Group, operates through over 2'800 clothing multiple
stores in the UK (and 600 abroad), like Dorothy Perkins, Evans,
Top Shop, Wallis, Miss Selfridge, Burton and Top Man. All chains
include home service activities.
Under the name Aurora Fashions, new name for Mosaic Fashions,
four fashion brands (Karen Millan, Coast, Warehouse and Oasis)
will continue its activities through 1'377 stores in 45 countries, as
reported in March 2009.
Major foreign players are Hennes & Mauritz (146 stores), Gap
(136 stores), Zara (63 stores), Mango (20 stores) and Dunnes
Stores (29 stores).
The UK clothing retail sector makes a distinction between discount
retailers, which sell branded clothing at below recommended pri-
ces, and value retailers, which sell own label clothes at low prices.
Both types of retailers are likely to put even further downward
pressure on pricing. The value players have performed strongly
and this is expected to continue as the downturn takes hold.
Primark is the largest of these players followed by TK Maxx (part
of the USA based TJX Companies). Primark has plans for further
expansion, has stores already trading in Spain and plans afoot for
further expansion into The Netherlands, Portugal and Germany.
TK Maxx Europe is also active in Ireland and Germany.
The most important variety chain is Marks & Spencer (M&S)
with 490 stores nationwide and selling clothing besides food and
home ware. In addition, M&S has 166 stores worldwide, including
franchise businesses, operating in 36 countries. M&S is the UK’s
leading household and furnishing retailer, and an important retailer
of foods, clothing and footwear. Another variety chain is Bhs
(180 stores), active in adults’ wear, and even more important, in
children’s wear also through the formula Tammy. The 818 Wool-
worth variety stores went into administration in November 2008
and were closed in four stages throughout December 2008 and
January 2009.
The leading department store is Debenham (153 stores in the UK
and Ireland, besides 48 franchised outlets in 17 countries abroad).
Debenham is the UK’s third largest clothing retailer and the
leading department store in selling clothing. Another department
store is John Lewis Partnership (27 stores).
Along with this development, the competition among the clothing
suppliers from non-EU countries has also increased and demands
with regard to service, reliability and keeping of high quality stan-
dards have to be fulfilled by companies that wish to remain on the
supplier’s lists.
A further strong development in the British retail trade - apart from
Outerwear 2010 l 116
price orientation - is the emphasis on more service and attractive 7.4.2  Leading retailers
shop interiors. Consumers are not only prepared to invest in the The following table gives a good survey of leading clothing shops/
product, but also accept higher prices for the distracting expe- chains in the UK. Besides the clothing chains of the powerful ARCADIA
rience of shopping. Buying of clothing becomes a special and joy- Group, (sales volume £ 1.9 billion in 2008) there are other clothing
ful ‘event’ achieved through a variety of entertaining and extensive multiples like NEXT with 502 outlets and a sales volume of €3.3 billion.
store environments.
Table 78: Major specialised clothing chains based in the UK, 2008
Clothing retail chain Parent company Website Number of outlets
General
Next Next PLC www.next.co.uk 502 (660)
Monsoon Monsoon www.monsoon.co.uk 410 (849)
New Look New Look www.newlook.co.uk 613 (885)
Women
Dorothy Perkins Arcadia Group www.dorothyperkins.co.uk 600
Evans Arcadia Group www.evans.ltd.uk 330
Wallis Arcadia Group www.walis-fashion.com 300 (425)
Miss Selfridge Arcadia Group www.misssefridge.co.uk 141 (187)
Topshop Arcadia Group www.topshop.co.uk 320
Alexon Alexon Group www.alexon.co.uk 77
Bay Trading Alexon Group www.alexon.co.uk 167
Men
Topman Arcadia Group www.topman.co.uk 178
Burton Arcadia Group www.burton.co.uk 400
Children & maternity
Mothercare Mothercare www.mothercare.com 225 (553)
Outdoor / sports
JJB Sports JJB Sports www.jjb.co.uk 344
Blacks Leisure Black Leisure Group www.blackleisure.co.uk 374
JD Sports John David Group www.jdsports.co.uk 402
Value retailers
Matalan (family clothing etc.) www.matalan.co.uk 200
Peacock (clothing, footwear etc.) www.peacocks.co.uk 460 (506)
Primark (clothing, footwear etc.) www.primark.co.uk 181
M6Co (former name Mackays; women’s and children’s wear) www.mackaystores.co.uk 297
QS (general clothing) www.qsgroup.co.uk 170
Bonmarché (women’s wear) www.bonmarche.co.uk 371
Discount chains
TK Maxx (fashion and giftware) www.tkmaxx.com 214 (231)
The Officers Club (men’s wear) www.theofficersclub.co.uk 174
Source: CBI - Note: Numbers in brackets including outlets abroad

117 l Outerwear 2010

7.4.3  Distribution channels The Top Shop chain, offers the latest young fashion and have
7.4.3.1  Retailers enlarged their services including ‘style consulting’, a VIP Service
The following table gives an overview on the main clothing retail sending a selection of clothing items home and a special depart-
channels in the UK and the share of each channel. ment for pregnant women with extra large changing rooms. Those
luxury shops that have traditional brands such as BURBERRY‘ S,
Table 79: Clothing retail channels by market share [%] BARBOUR and PRINGLE play an important role for consumers
over 45 who have the appropriate income to buy quality collec-
2004 2006 2008
tions.
Specialists 48 49 49
Independent retailers 14 13 12
Burberry has been successful in re-launching its traditional
Clothing multiples* 34 36 37 labels and combines higher quality with higher prices. Burberry‘s
Non-specialists 52 51 51 consumer-oriented and elaborate marketing led to a sales incre-
Department/variety stores 15 15 16 ase. Similar developments can be detected for the retailers Daks,
Home shopping companies 9 9 8 Aquascutum, and Mulberry, who combined classic brands with
current market trends.
Hyper- and supermarkets 6 7 7
Sports stores 8 8 9
As in other European countries, the mid-market global fashion
Other 8 7 6 brands of the foreign companies H&M, ZARA and MANGO are
Total 100 100 100 strengthening their hold on the UK market. In the UK clothing retail
Source: CBI and BTE – Note: *including discounters and value retailers sector a distinction is made between discount retailers, which sell
branded clothing at below recommended prices and value retai-
7.4.3.1.1  Independent specialised retailers lers, which sell own label clothes at low prices.
The market share of independent clothing retailers has been
dropping slowly over the past three years (2004-2008). 12% of The market share of these retailers, in particular value retailers,
the clothing is sold through independent shops, which is rather increased strongly in the period under review and included outer-
low compared with the much higher percentages in France and wear. The secret of their success is the ability to provide the latest
Germany. fashion trends to their customers.

The shrinking process of the smaller independent retailers has
come to a standstill and the market has stabilized at a low level.
More than 90% of independent retailers do not buy/import from
overseas clothing suppliers but source abroad through their buying
associations.
Market share: 12% in 2008, Trend: decreasing
7.4.3.1.2  Clothing multiples
The structure of clothing retailing in the UK is one of the most
concentrated in the world. The largest player in the market is the
Arcadia Group, which operates with more than 2'500 clothing mul-
tiple stores and includes, as well as home service activities, the
women’s chains Dorothy Perkins, Evans, Top Shop, Miss Selfridge,
Wallis, Outfit the men's wear chains Burton and Top Man. The
Arcadia Group buys separately for each of its companies and each
product group and there are buyers responsible for each product
segment.
Market share: 37 % in 2008, Trend: increasing
7.4.3.1.3  Department stores
Among the clothing retailers, the department store MARKS &
SPENCER (M&S) in particular suffered from fiercer competition
and profits that turned into losses at the end of the nineties. Howe-
ver, with a total sales of around £ 0.9 billion in 2008, the restruc-
turing efforts were successful. M&S has now reopened stores
outside the UK but still concentrates on premium locations.
The DEBENHAMS department stores had a sales turnover of £
2.3 billion in 2009. Other major department stores are: JOHN LE-
WIS, HOUSE OF FRASER, ALLDERS and SELFRIDGES in the
market, but MARKS & SPENCER still keeps the no. 1 position.
Market share: 16 % in 2008, Trend: Stable

Outerwear 2010 l 118

7.4.3.1.4  Home shopping companies
Over 40 companies are active in the home shopping sector (ope-
rations via direct-mail, catalogues, television and Internet) like:
Grattan and Freemans; both companies are part of the German
mail-order giant Otto Versand; Empire Stores is owned by the
French PRP; Littlewoods. Most of the UK retail organisations
operate also via Internet, mail-order and home shopping, of which
Next Directory - is the most successful.
Market share: 8% in 2008, Trend: Decreasing
7.4.3.1.5  Hyper- and supermarkets
Supermarkets tend to offer convenience and competitive prices.
And because almost everyone needs to go grocery shopping,
supermarkets have a large base of customers who regularly
visit their stores. This has even resulted in some supermarkets
attempting to lead and create fashion trends in clothing. Accor-
ding to Verdict, growth in sales of clothing at supermarkets will be
driven by two factors.
• Supermarkets will start to sell a greater range of higher priced
clothing. This will help them attract a wider spread of consumers
and allow them to take more business from specialist players
• Supermarkets will achieve growth in sales of clothing via online
shopping. Many grocers are already active in Internet sales and
have a comprehensive delivery network in place.
The two major retailers in the supermarket sector are ASDA (328
stores selling clothing in the UK and part of American Wal-Mart;
and Tesco (585 superstores but not all stores are selling clothing).
They increasingly follow the trend of offering non-food products as
do, for instance, the leading French hypermarkets. ASDA’s assort-
ment includes its successful George clothing range, which is also
sold by Wal-Mart. Another grocer chain is Sainsbury’s (selling its
TU clothing collection in 300 of the in total more than 800 stores).
The German discounters Lidl (450 stores) and Aldi (360) and,
Makro Cash & Carry (33 stores) are also active in the UK.
Market share: 7% in 2008, Trend: Increasing
119 l Outerwear 2010
7.4.3.2  Sales intermediaries
7.4.3.2.1  Clothing manufacturers
In addition to retailers and wholesalers that import clothing to
the UK, in some cases UK manufacturers partly outsource their
production activities to manufacturers abroad. Due to the strong
increase of production costs in the UK, clothing manufacturers
(mainly brands) have started outsourcing to Eastern Europe and
Northern Africa. Many products (e.g. most of the knitted outer-
wear) are bought from Asia and Turkey.
British clothing ‘manufacturers’ have turned in being more
management and marketing units than producers. They mainly
concentrate on the design and fashion as well as on marketing
and sales.
The brands sell their products to selected distribution channels
that correspond with their marketing strategy. In any case, prac-
tically all British clothing brands source products abroad in one
way or another and offer various sales opportunities for clothing
manufacturers from abroad.
7.4.3.2.2  Central buying associations
Co-ordinated buying through central buying associations is a way
for smaller UK retailers to gain more purchasing power. Since the
clothing market in the UK is highly concentrated, with only a few
big players who mainly buy directly from clothing manufacturers
and there is little market share for small independent shops, the
importance of central buying associations in the UK is still low.
In Great Britain, importers/wholesalers have often taken over the
‘buying function’ for smaller retailers, as the latter do not have the
know-how and the means to import goods on their own.
7.4.3.2.3  Sales agents
There are different methods of indirect distribution from abroad
to the various clothing retailers in the UK. One option is that local
‘agents’ identify the clothing suppliers abroad, but the UK retailer
is still the one who negotiates with their in-house buying team and
organises all the logistics including shipping etc. Most often British
retailers use several forms of indirect contacts.
Roughly speaking, half of these agents or wholesalers are located
in the UK and half are located outside the UK. Agents are used by
retailers to identify appropriate suppliers, to outsource the comple-
te handling and control including communication with the supplier,
the safeguarding of quality standards (especially for women's
wear), the complete logistics including the import procedures, the
production abroad according to ecological and social standards
(code of conduct) etc.
A further option for the clothing manufacturer from abroad is
selling through regional agents in the UK. The condition is whether
the manufacturer has a clear marketing strategy with a market
oriented collection for the British market. The basis is a detailed
‘Business Plan’. The manufacturer from abroad should consider
that the area of ‘Greater London’ is highly competitive and it might
be more advantageous to start the market entry in areas like Man-
chester, the North West or even Ireland.
The main function of wholesalers cannot be described merely as
‘buying and selling and gaining a high margin’. The wholesalers
also know most of the details about the retailer’s needs. Other
tasks and functions of the wholesaler within the sourcing process
include the know-how about the standards of the designs and as
well as knowledge of the technical aspects of the products to be
produced.
The British wholesaler normally also advises the manufacturer to
put the appropriate label on the product, as the concept of own
‘Retail Brands’ has become of crucial importance to the retailers
in the UK offering them more independence from the clothing
manufacturers and running an own brand concept with better
margins. The British wholesaler normally is fully involved in these
processes to guarantee the ‘right product at the right time in the
right place’.

7.4.3.2.4  Importers / wholesalers
For most suppliers to the UK market, indirect selling is the first way
to go. UK wholesalers are infrequently mentioned, rarely visible,
and searching for them on the Internet proves to be very difficult.
Market research has shown that clothing wholesalers do not play
an important role in the UK. Some British retailers do buy with
the help of intermediary companies, and these wholesalers might
even be outside the UK.

The principles and possibilities of indirect selling to the UK might

be illustrated as follows: If the manufacturer’s clothing is sold for
instance at the shops of Marks & Spencer in the UK, the import
may be done through a company somewhere in Europe and not
necessarily in the UK. This can be confusing for clothing manufac-
turers from abroad when trying to get in contact with a buyer who
only buys ‘within Europe’.

Nevertheless, selling clothing to the UK also means working, in

general, with manufacturers in Europe that export to the British
market. Selling to wholesalers can be more profitable, because
desperately trying to sell directly to the retailers may not work and
might result in no orders at all, as many British retailers ‘source’
through those wholesale and import units.

Outerwear 2010 l 120

7.5 UK fashion trade fairs. An exception is the Premier Kids in Birmingham, which has found
its niche in the children's wear segment.
The UK has achieved a better image for clothing design in the last
few years and is competing with France and Italy. With London as In any case, brief research about the importance and the concept
a major fashion centre in Europe, the United Kingdom has gained of the fair to be attended is essential. The following table gives
more importance as a ‘Fashion Country’. a brief overview on the major British clothing fairs with names,
venues and dates.
In addition, a great deal of support from the British government
has been an encouraging factor. ‘London Design’ is said to have
a very modern or even avant-garde style and influences the
European fashion scene to a certain extent. As a consequence
of the appreciation of British clothing and design, trade fairs have
increased in recent years. According to market experts, London
offers the major clothing fairs in UK. Still today, it is highly recom-
mended to check exact dates and venues of the smaller British
fairs beforehand, as the ‘fair scene’ keeps on changing its names
and locations.

The main trade fair for clothing in the UK is the London Fashion
Week. Two more fairs take place parallel to the London Fashion
Week: Pure and Margin London. All these fairs take place twice a
year (February and August).

Table 80: UK fashion trade fairs 2010

Trade fair Date Location

London Fashion Week 19. - 24.02.2010 London
London Fashion Week August London
Pure 01. - 03.08.2010 London
Premier Kids 07. - 11.02.2010 Birmingham
Moda UK 08. - 10.08.2010 Birmingham
Margin London 01. - 02.08.2010 London
Clothes Show Life 03. - 08.12.2010 Birmingham
Printwear & Promotion Live 28. - 02.03.2010 Birmingham
The London Design Festival 18. - 26.09.2010 London
Source: Auma

121 l Outerwear 2010

7.6 List of major buyers in UK.
Clothing chain stores:
Arcadia Group Ltd.
Colegrave House
70 Berners Street
GB - London W1T 3NL
Tel.: +44 – 0844 243 0000
www.arcadiagroup.co.uk
customer.service@arcadia-
group.co.uk
TOP MAN
Colegrave House
70 Berners Street
GB - London W1T 3NL
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040
European Customers:
+44 844 984 0264
customer.service@topman.com
www.topman.co.uk
TOP SHOP
Colegrave House
70 Berners Street
GB - London W1T 3NL
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040
Fax: +44 – 207 – 927 2434
www.topshop.co.uk
customer.service@
TOPSHOP.COM
Wallis Fashion Group Ltd.
Colegrave House
70 Berners Street
GB - London W1T 3NL
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 636 8040
customer.service@wallis.co.uk
www.wallis-fashion.com
WEW Group PLC
296 Springfield Road
GB - Glasgow G40 3HZ
Tel.: +44 – 141 – 5567111
Fax: +44 – 141 – 5567262
Product range: Ladies,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 2500 +
420 international franchise
stores+ mail order business
Note: Arcadia Group is
privately owned by Taveta
Investments Ltd, the invest-
ment vehicle owned by Sir
Philip Green and his family
Product range: Menswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid-level
Number of outlets:
167 + mail order service
Note: belongs to ARCA-
DIA Group
Product range: Womens-
wear (young fashion)
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets:
288 + mail order service
Note: belongs to ARCA-
DIA Group
Product range:
Womenswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid-level
Number of outlets: 289 +
mail order service
Note: belongs to ARCA-
DIA Group
Product range: Ladies,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 40
Bhs International
Euston House
132 Hampstead Road
GB - London NW1 2PS
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 2623288
international@bhs.co.uk
www.bhs.co.uk
Bon Marché Ltd.
Jubilee Way
Grange Moor
GB - Wakefield WF4 4SJ
Tel.: +44(0)1924 700100
Fax: +44(0)1924 700249
info@bonmarche.co.uk
www.bonmarche.co.uk
Greenwoods Ltd.
Greenwood House
Albion Road, Greengates
GB - Bradford BD10 9TQ
Tel.: +44 – 127 – 4659650
Fax: +44 – 127 – 4659692
info@gwmw.com
www.gwmw.com
H&M Hennes Ltd.
2nd Floor, Holden House
57 Rathbone Place
GB - London W1T 1HE
Tel.: +44 – 020 – 7323 2211
www.hm.com
Matalan Retail Ltd.
Gillibrands Road
Skelmersdale
GB - WN8 9TB, West Lan-
cashire
Tel.: +44 – 169 – 5552400
www.matalan.co.uk
Product range: Ladies,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: over
100 in the UK
Product range:
Womenswear
Price segment:
Lower level
Number of outlets: 350
(370 at the
end 2005)
Note: belongs to Peacock
Group
Product range: Menswear
Price segment:
Upper level
Number of outlets: 150
Product range: Ladies,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment: lower level
Number of outlets: 96
(expanding)
Product range: Ladies,
men’s, childrenswear
Price segment:
mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 190
Outerwear 2010 l 122
 MANGO (head office in Spain)
Mercaders 9-11
P.I. Riera de Caldes
Apartado de Correos 280
E - 08184 Palau-solità i
Plegamans (Barcelona)
Tel.: +34 – 93 860 24 24
Fax:+34 – 93 860 22 07
www.mango.es
QS Familywear PLC
Harbour House
121 Gardener Road, Portslade
GB - Brighton BN1 IQS
Tel.: +44 – 1273 – 874444
Fax: +44 – 1273 – 874433
qsplc@co.uk
www.qsgroup.co.uk
River Island Clothing Co.
Ltd.
Chelsea House, West Gate
GB - London W5 1DR
Tel.: +44 – 208 – 9914500
Fax: +44 – 208 – 9914500
www.riverisland.com
Zara
48, Warwick Street
GB - London, W1B 5 FE
Tel.: +44 20 7851 43 00
Fax: +44 20 7851 43 01
www.zara.com
Department stores:
Debenhams Retail Plc.
1 Welbeck Street
GB - London W1G GAA
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 408 4444
Fax: +44 – 207 – 408 3366
www.debenhams.com
123 l Outerwear 2010
Product range: Ladies, House of Fraser PLC
men’s, childrenswear 1 Howick Place
Price segment: GB - London SW1P 1BH
Lower level (value for Tel.: +44 – 207 – 963 2000
money) Fax: +44 – 207 – 821 5348
Number of outlets: 180 www.houseoffraser.co.uk
John Lewis Partnership Ltd.
John Lewis Department
Stores
Product range: Ladies, 171 Victoria Street
men’s, childrenswear GB - London SW1E 5NN
Price segment: Tel.: +44 – 207 – 828 1000
Lower level (value for Fax: +44 – 207 – 592 6333
money) www.johnlewis.co.uk
Number of outlets: 180 www.johnlewispartnership.co.uk
Liberty PLC
Regent Street
Product range: Ladies’ and GB - London W1B 5AH
menswear Tel.: +44 – 207 – 734 1234
Price segment: Mid to Fax: +44 – 020 – 7573 9898
upper level www.liberty.co.uk
Number of outlets: 200
Marks + Spencer Group PLC
Waterside House
35 North Wharf Road
GB - London W21 NW
Product range: Ladies,
Tel.: +44 – 020 7935 4422
men’s, childrenswear
www.marksandspencer.com
Price segment: Mid-level
retailcustomer.services@
Number of outlets: 42
marksandspencer.com
(Remark: Buying via
Spain)
Next plc.
Company secretary: Mr A J R
McKinlay
Desford Road
GB - Enderby Leicester LE19
4AT
Product range:
Tel.: +44 – 0 - 844 844 88 88
Ladies’, men’s and
Fax: +44 – 116 – 284 8998
childrenswear
www.next.co.uk
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 117
Woolworths PLC
1st Floor, Skyways House,
Speke Road, GB - Speke,
Liverpool L70 1AB
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 262 1222
Fax: +44 – 207 – 706 5416
www.woolworths.co.uk
Product range:
Ladies’ and menswear
Price segment: Upper
level (brand orientation)
Number of outlets: 51
(under 16 names)
Product range:
Sports and Leisurewear
Price segment:
Lower to mid-level
Number of outlets: 27
stores + 169 supermarkets
Product range: Ladies’,
men’s and childrenswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid-level
Number of outlets: 120 +
166 catalogue shops
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 375
stores + over
130 franchising partners
Product range:
Ladies’, men’s and
childrenswear
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 400
stores + 43 franchising
partners + home shopping
Product range:
Childrenswear
Price segment:
Lower to mid-level
Number of outlets: 806
Manufacturers/Importer and Wholesalers/Importers:
J. Brownleader Ltd.
49c Oxford Road
GB - London W5 3SR
Tel: +44 – 207 – 354 2468
Fax: +44 – 207 – 354 2593
Liam David Ltd.
Coburg House 35 Sefton
Street
GB - Liverpool L8 5SL,
Merseyside
Tel.: +44 – 151 – 706 – 0060
Fax: +44 – 151 – 706 –
0661
www.ldl.uk.com
Westbridge International
Group Ltd.
Westbridge House
Holland Street, Hyson
Green
GB - Nottingham NG7 5DS
Tel.: +44 – 115 – 978 2254
Fax: +44 – 115 942 0547
www.wbig.co.uk
Mail Order Companies:
County Coats
61-75 Alie Street
GB - London E1 8EL
Tel.: +44 – 207 – 709 9682
Fax: +44 – 207 – 702 2870
Propeller UK Ltd.
A.M.C. House
1a Lower Park
GB - London W3 6XA
Tel.: +44 – 208 – 896 8700
Redcats (Brands) Ltd. Product range:
(formerly Empire Stores Ltd.) Ladies’, men’s and
18, Canal Road childrenswear
GB - Bradford B99 4XB – W. Price level: Lower level
Yorkshire
Tel.: +44 – 1274 – 72 9544
Fax: +44 – 1274 – 76 3816
www.empirestores.co.uk
Freemans PLC Product range:
Amberley Street Ladies’, men’s and
GB – Sheffield S9 2 FS childrenswear
www.freemans.com Price level: Lower to mid-
level
(value for money)
Great Universal Stores PLC Product range:
(GUS) Ladies’, men’s and
Universal House childrenswear
251-256 Tottenham Court Price level:
Road from Lower to upper
GB - London W1A 1BZ level
Tel.: +44 71 636 4080 Note: 12 different mail-
Fax: +44 71 631 3641 order lines
info@gusplc.com
www.gusplc.com
Grattan PLC Product range:
P.O. B ox 3856 Ladies’, men’s and
GB – Sheffield S96 5WD childrenswear
www.grattan.co.uk Price level:
Lower to mid-level
JD Williams + Co. Ltd. Product range:
Griffin House Ladies’, men’s and
40 Lever Street childrenswear
GB - Manchester M60 6ES Price level:
Tel.: +44 – 870 – 160 61 00 Mid to lower level
www.jdwilliams.co.uk Note: No. 1 in UK with 20
catalogue brands
Note: part of N. Brown
Group PLC
Outerwear 2010 l 124
Jeans and Young Fashion Chain:
Alexon A Division of Alexon
Int. Ltd.
Pitfield
Kiln Farm
GB – Milton Keynes MK 11
3LW
help@alexon.co.uk
www.alexon.co.uk
Blacks Leisure Group PLC
440-450 Cob Drive
Swan Valley
GB – Northampton NN4 9BB
Tel.: +44 (0) 1604 597 000
Fax +44 (0) 1604 597 171
www.blacks.co.uk
Cromwells Madhouse plc.
Fulton Road, Unit 3, Palace of
Industry
GB - Wembley HA9 OTL –
Middlesex
Tel.: +44 – 181 – 903 5888
Fax: +44 – 181 – 903 0303
www.madhouse.co.uk
Gilesports plc
Fortran Road, St. Mellons
GB - Cardiff CF3 OLT
Tel.: +44 – 1222 – 77 44 00
Fax: +44 – 1222 – 77 44 01
www.gilesports.com
Paco Life in Colour
Unit K3/Waterside Shopping
Centre
High Street
Lincoln, LN2 1AP
Tel.: +44 01 522 568637
www.dancingdress.co.uk
125 l Outerwear 2010
Product range:
Sportswear (outdoor)
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 125
Note: belongs to Blacks
Leisure Group plc.
Product range:
Sportswear (outdoor)
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 125.
Product range: Ladies’ and
men’s jeans wear
Price segment:
Lower to mid-level
Buying Associations:
Number of outlets: 55
Price segment: Upper
level (mainlybrands)
Number of outlets: 50
Product range:
Sportswear
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 50
JJB Sports PLC (formerly
Sports Division)
Martland Park, Challenge Way
GB - Wigan WN5 0LD, Lan-
cashire
Tel.: +44 – 194 – 2 2101 20
Fax: +44 – 194 – 2 210 124
www.jjbsports.com
French Connection Group
plc
Head Office
3 Hancock Road
Bromley-by-Bow
GB - London, E3 3DA
Tel.: +44 – 20 7036 7000
Fax: +44 – 20 7036 7001
www.frenchconnection.com
Co-operative Wholesale
(CWS) Ltd.
New Century House –
P.O.B. 53
GB - Manchester M60 4ES
Tel.: +44 – 161 – 834 1212
Fax: +44 – 161 – 834 4507
www.Co-op.co.uk
Product range:
Sportswear
Price segment: Mid-level
Number of outlets: 82
Product range: Stylish
sports and casual wear
Price segment:
Mid to upper level
Number of outlets: 430
Note: Largest British retai-
ler for sportswear
INTERSPORT UK
Shirley Solihull
GB - B90 4LF West Midlands
Tel.: +44 - 121 - 683 1449
Fax: +44 - 121 - 683 1467
www.intersport.co.uk
contact@intersport.co.uk
8. Doing business in Switzerland and the EU.
8.1 Market access.
8.1.1  Quality and standards in Switzerland and the EU
The application of the European Norms (EN) in the 27 EU and the
4 EFTA countries (including Switzerland) is the basis of a liberal
intra-European trade and is valid in all 31 countries (more details:
www.cenorm.be).
However, there are no general EU or Swiss standards for
garments. The rule is that importers in EU countries as well as
in Switzerland generally fulfil the minimum quality requirements
regarding material and making. The technical committee of the Eu-
ropean Apparel and Textile Confederation (Euratex) has published
an example of recommendations for manufacturers of knitted and
woven clothing. Within these recommendations the Euratex, where
Switzerland and many of the EU 27 countries hold a membership
makes a difference between:
• Recommendations concerning the characteristics of product
which could be detected by an experienced person without aid
of instruments in general use. A fault is located if the irregularity
is evident in the fabrics as it was delivered or in the final product
• Recommendations concerning the characteristics of fabrics,
which could be only recovered with the help of appropriate
equipment. Description of each characteristic includes definition,
testing method, minimum quality standards and (if necessary)
possible allowable tolerances compared with measurements of
the sample.
Testing methods for clothing are usually based on the ISO
standards (www.iso.ch) or they can also suit the requirements of
European norms (EN) or national standards of the EU member
states (such as DIN, SIS, BS). ISO is made up of its members.
A member body of ISO is the national body ‘most representative
of standardization in its country’. Only one such body for each
country is accepted for membership of ISO. Member bodies are
entitled to participate and exercise full voting rights on any techni-
cal committee and policy committee of ISO. The member body of
ISO in Switzerland is Swiss Association for Standardization (SNV)
(more details can be taken from www.snv.ch). ISO norms are also
applied in Switzerland. The major standards for quality and grading
standards in the EU and Switzerland are the following:
• for care labelling - ISO 3758
• for dimensional stability – DIN 53894 (steaming), DIN 54311
(fusing), ISO 3759/5077/6330 (washing/tumbling), ISO 3175 (dry
cleaning)
• for physical properties – ISO 5081 (tensile strength strip), ISO
5082 (tensile strength grab), ISO 9290 (tear strength), BS 3320
(seam slippage), EN 22313 (abrasion resistance), ISO 9876
(crease tendency/recovery), BS 5811 (pilling tendency), SIS
650047 (fibre penetration), EN 24920 (spray test) etc.
• for colour-fastness to washing, light, water and other external
influences - ISO 105
Although the EU attempts to activate free trade based on the
harmonization of product requirements, each EU member state
and Switzerland has its own national market for apparel with its re-
spective requirements concerning quality, type of clothing, colour,
fabric, size etc.
Swiss norms are progressively disappearing due to the appea-
rance of international norms. Following requirements inherent to
globalisation, Swiss industry has changed over to international
standards over the last twenty years. In order to counteract pos-
sible discrimination against the Swiss clothing industry because
of the country’s non-membership in the EU, Switzerland has
accepted various EU-norms and references within the framework
of national legislation.
8.1.2  Packaging, size marking and labelling
Packaging
Care must be given to the packaging of products if one intends
to export to EU countries and Switzerland. Packaging must be
travel-steady, it must protect the product against environmental
influences, theft, rough handling etc.
As well as these basic demands, some importers may have spe-
cific demands concerning packaging, such as printing information
about the order on the boxes (order number, quantity, product
number, product description etc.). Some materials like PVC are
less popular or even forbidden in some countries because of en-
vironmental issues, and exporters should discuss this matter with
potential clients and include the cost of the special price in their
wholesale price, if required.
Outerwear 2010 l 126
The EU has issued a directive on packaging and packaging waste
(94/62/EC) that is applicable, to a large extent, to Switzerland as
well. Among other measures, the Directive sets maximum levels of
concentrations of heavy metals in packaging and describes requi-
rements specific to manufacturing and composition of packaging.
The Directive needs to be transposed to the national legislation of
the member states.
Most of the previous systems, such as the German packaging
waste programme the ‘Green Dot’ - where trade and industry
in Germany and other EU countries were obliged to take back
packaging materials - have lost importance over the last years,
mainly because of misuse of the green dot which appeared almost
on every imported packaging without an obligation to take back
the packaging.

The dispose of waste is increasingly difficult and expensive in
Europe. In principle, the importer is held responsible for disposal
of the packaging waste for all goods from outside the EU. It is
therefore crucial, when planning exports to the EU, to take the pa-
ckaging of your products (both sales packaging and transport pa-
ckaging) into consideration. To fulfil the requirements of the target
market, clear communication with the importer about packaging is
highly recommended.
New legislation about wood packaging has recently been introdu-
ced. More detailed information about packaging techniques and
the use of packaging materials can be found on the website of ITC
(http://www.intracen.org).
Size
The following body measurements are used: body length, chest
size and hip size. These three basic measurements determine the
fitting of the garments. The following sizes are similar in Germany,
the Netherlands and Austria.

Table 81: Size table for women's outerwear

Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

Figure size 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48
Chest width 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-93 94-97 98-102 103-107 108-113
Waist size 62-65 66-69 70-73 74-77 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-94
Hip girth 89-91 92-95 96-98 99-101 102-104 105-108 109-112 113-116

Table 82: Size table for men's outerwear except trousers and jeans
Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL
Figure size 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Chest width 86-89 90-93 94-97 98-101 102-105 106-109 110-113 114-117
Waist size 74-77 78-81 82-85 86-89 90-94 95-99 100-104 105-109
Hip girth 89-92 93-96 97-100 101-104 105-108 109-112 113-116 117-120

Table 83: Size table for men's trousers [cm]

Character sizes XXS XS S M L XL XXL XXXL

Figure sizes 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
Waistband width 77 81 85 89 93 97 103 109
Side length 77 79 81 83 85 86 87 87

127 l Outerwear 2010

The EN 13402 is a voluntary European Standard aimed at making Table 84: Size marking for babies' and children's wear
the buying of clothes simpler for the customer throughout Europe.
Years Groups
At the moment, a woman with a bust of about 88cm, a waist of
about 72cm and hips of about 96cm, takes a dress size: 0-2 Babies
2-6 Toddlers
• 12 in the UK 6-12 Middle group / school
• C38in Norway, Sweden and Finland 12-14 Pre-teens
• 40 in Belgium and France 14-16 Teenagers
• 38 in Germany and the Netherlands
• 44 in Italy
• 44/46 in Portugal and Spain.
• (10 in the USA)

EN 13402 suggests a new measurement system which would re-

move this confusion. It takes different dimensions such as height,
bust, and waist, and displays these measurements in 4cm and
8cm intervals.

For example, a woman with a waist of 71cm, hips of 96cm and

a height of 172cm, would look for a skirt displaying the following
measurements on the label: waist 70-74cm, hips 94-98 cm, height
170-174cm. The standard also suggests a language-neutral
pictogram, on which these dimensions can be indicated, to enable
easier purchasing abroad.

Jeans sizes
Jeans are sold internationally in inch sizes. They are read as
follows: The first number refers to the girth of the waist and the
second to the inside leg seam (inseam). Both are expressed in
inches.

Germany has a specific system for the men’s sizes, which are
subdivided into three groups:

• Standard sizes: 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62

• Large sizes (shorter than standard sizes and wider at the hip):
24 25 26

• Slim sizes (longer than standard sizes and narrower): 84 86 88

90 94 98 102 106

Outerwear 2010 l 128

Infants’ Wear (body sizes)
For the purposes of sizing all children are best grouped into
infants (younger than seven years), boys and girls. The Swedish
‘Centilong’ system based on height values is used in some Euro-
pean countries. There is one standard for all these sizes.

Table 85: Body sizes infants [cm]

Body sizes infants

Height 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 98 104

Chest 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 55 56
Waist 40 42 44 46 48 49 50 51 52 53
Hips 41 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59
Arm length 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32.3 34.6 36.9
Inside leg length 16 19 22 25 28 31 34 37 40.6 44.2

Table 86: Boys' wear [cm]

Boys' wear
Height 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 176 182 188 194
Chetst 58 59 60 62 64 67 70 73 77 81 85 88 91 94 97
Waist 54 55 56 57 59 61 63 65 68 71 74 77 80 83 86
Hips 59 61 63 65 68 71 74 77 81 85 89 93 95 98 101
Arm length 39.1 41.4 43.7 46 48.3 50.6 52.5 55.3 57.5 60 62.5 65 67 69 71
Inside leg length 47.5 51 54.5 58 61.5 65 68 71 74 77 80 83 86 89 92
Neck 28 28.5 29.5 30.5 31.5 32.5 33.5 34.5 35.5 36.5 37.5 38 38.5 39 39.5
circumference
Table 87: Girls' wear [cm]

Girls' wear
Height 110 116 122 128 134 140 146 152 158 164 170 176 182 188
Chest 58 59 60 62 64 67 71 75 79 83 86 89 92 95
Waist 54 55 56 57 59 61 63 65 67 69 71 73 75 77
Hips 61 63 65 67 70 73 77 81 85 89 93 96 99 102
Arm length 39.1 41.4 43.7 46 48.3 50.6 52.8 55 57.3 59.5 61.5 63.5 65.5 67.5
Inside leg 47.5 51 55 59 63 67 70 72.5 75 77.5 80 82.5 85 87.5
length
Neck 28 28.5 29 29.5 30 30.7 31.5 32.2 33.3 33.7 34.5 35.5 36.5 37.5
circumference

Shirts and Blouses

In EU and Switzerland, sizes for men’s shirts are based on neck XS-XXL are also used for leisure or sport shirts, also in combina-
circumference in cm or inches and vary respectively from 37-48 tion with the usual shirt size. For women’s and children’s wear, the
cm and from 15-19 in, and can be extended with other mea- standard outerwear sizes are used.
surements, of which arm length is the most important. The sizes

129 l Outerwear 2010

Labelling
The International Association for Textile Care Labelling (GINETEX
France - Groupement International d’Etiquetage pour l’Entretien
des Textiles, www.ginetex.org), which represents the textile
producing and retailing industries in 16 European countries (EU
countries as well as Switzerland and Tunisia as non-EU countries
included), has devised an internationally applicable care labelling
system for textiles based on symbols of pictogram. Only those care
labels issued by the GINETEX may be used by the retailers/manuf-
acturers in the GINETEX member countries.
The care identification symbols are protected under trademark law.
The marks are owned by the aforementioned GINETEX Group.
The care identification is also covered by international standards
(ISO 3758 / EN 23 758).
In Switzerland, the row of symbols may not be reproduced, issued
or used without a special agreement with SARTEX (Swiss Associa-
tion for Textile Marking – www.sartex.ch). The contracting compa-
nies undertake to make correct use of these symbols at all times
within the meaning of the relevant guidelines.
These guidelines apply to all textiles and textile products sold in
Switzerland and require a declaration as to the kind and content
of the raw materials used. Pursuant to the agreement with the
user, legal action will be taken in the event of any breach of this
undertaking. The textile labelling regulations set by the individual
member states of the European Union (EU Standards) comply
with the Swiss guidelines and requirements. The right to use these
trademarks has been given to the national member bodies of
GINETEX. SARTEX is independent in regard to its structure and
operating methods, but should adhere in all respects to the use
of internationally agreed symbols (above) as well as to technical
regulations and decisions taken at the GINETEX level. Commercial
companies (wholesalers, importers etc.) are required to include the
undertaking to ensure correct care identification and appropriate
labelling in compliance with the Swiss guidelines in their orders for
deliveries.
There are two kinds of requirements in the EU and Switzerland:
Mandatory requirements contain requirements like size, fibre
content and care-labelling/washing instructions. With regard to fibre
content: the indication 100% or pure can be used within a margin
of 2 percent of the weight of the final product. Other fibres with a
weight of less than 10 percent of the weight of the final products
can be mentioned; in that case, all other fibres must be mentioned.
An international care-labelling program is in use in many coun-
tries, also outside the EU. The program uses five basic symbols,
which relate to the properties of colour-fastness, dimensional
stability, effect of retained chlorine (bleach), maximum safe ironing
temperatures and certain other properties.
Voluntary requirements, such as origin marking, brand or product
name and other consumer information.
The care label
• should be durably fixed to the textile article,
• should be legible during the whole lifetime of the article.
In particular it should withstand the washing and dry cleaning
process it recommends,
• should be clearly positioned where it is easily noted and without
interference from a seam,
• should not show through the article and spoil its appearance.
Other forms of information may be combined on the same label
but clearly separated from each other. Garments consisting of
easily separable parts should be labelled on each of the parts.
There should only be one single care label on an article even if the
different components have to carry further information (for examp-
le fibre content). The object of labelling is to inform the consumer
and the commercial textile care industries when buying, using or
cleaning the articles. Therefore labels should be easily detectable.
The label should be affixed permanently and positioned always at
the same places depending on the type of the article. Because of
differences in materials, production, demands of fashion etc. these
requests can only partially be fulfilled and by way of exception an
alternative place of positioning is given. To achieve a maximum of
conformity, recommended positions are laid down.
Outerwear 2010 l 130
Table 88: The washing labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)

Symbols Maximum washing temperature Care process

95°C mechanical action normal

rinsing normal
spinning normal

95°C mechanical action reduced

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature
spinning reduced

60°C mechanical action normal

rinsing normal
spinning normal

60°C mechanical action reduced

rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature
spinning reduced

mechanical action normal

40°C rinsing normal
spinning normal

mechanical action reduced

40°C rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature
spinning reduced

mechanical action highly reduced

40°C rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature
spinning highly reduced

mechanical action normal

30°C rinsing normal
spinning normal

131 l Outerwear 2010

Symbols Maximum washing temperature Care process

mechanical action reduced

30°C rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature
spinning reduced

mechanical action highly reduced

30°C rinsing at gradually decreasing temperature
spinning highly reduced

40°C hand wash only

- Do not wash

Outerwear 2010 l 132

Table 89: Ironing labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758) Table 90: Dry cleaning labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)

Symbols Care Process Symbols Care Process

Iron at maximum soleplate Dry-cleaning in all solvents normally used

temperature of 200° C for dry-cleaning except trichloroethylene with
normal cleaning procedures.

Self-service cleaning is possible

Iron at maximum soleplate

The bar placed under the circle indicates
temperature of 150° C
strict limitations on the addition of water and/
or mechanical action and/or temperature
during cleaning and/or drying.

Iron at maximum soleplate Self-service cleaning is not allowed

temperature of 110° C
(steam iron may be risky) Only petroleum solvents may be used with
normal cleaning procedures

Do not iron

The bar placed under the circle indicates

strict limitations on the addition of water and/
or mechanical action and/or temperature
during cleaning and/or drying.

Self-service cleaning is not allowe

Dry cleaning
Letters (A, P and F) in the circle refer to the solvents which may be Do not dry-clean - no stain removal with
used by dry cleaners. Underlining the circle indicates that a speci- solvents
fic process should be used (mild process with strict limitations on
the addition of water and/or mechanical action and/or temperature
during cleaning and/or drying). In this case, self-service cleaning is
not allowed.
Table 91: Dry cleaning labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)
continued

Symbols Care process

No wet-cleaning possible

Wet-cleaning possible

Gentle wet-cleaning possible

Very gentle wet-cleaning possible

133 l Outerwear 2010

Tumble drying
The tumble drying symbol (a circle in a square) must be completed
by one or two dots for two different temperature levels.
Table 92: Tumble drying labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)
Symbols Care process
No restrictions concerning the temperature
of tumble drying after a washing process
Tumble drying possible at lower
temperature setting (60° C maximum) after
a washing process
Do not tumble dry
Bleaching
Table 93: Bleaching labelling symbols (according to ISO 3758)
The empty triangle means that all
bleaching processes are allowed
The triangle with the two lines means that
only oxygen based bleach and no chloride
based bleach is allowed
The crossed black triangle means that
bleaching is not possible
(normal washing powder allowed)
Below is some useful general information how to use the care
labels and what to write on them:
Care Labelling – General Recommendations for Exporters
Washing
All garments worn close to the skin should preferably be washable
at 60º C., normal mechanical agitation. All other garments should
be washable at 40º C., normal mechanical agitation. The bar under
the wash tub should only be used in the case of delicate fabrics.
The bar indicates that the mechanical agitation should be reduced.
The broken bar should only be used in the case of machine was-
hable wool and machine washable silk. The broken bar indicates
that the mechanical agitation should be much reduced. The hand-
wash symbol should only be used for articles which cannot be
washed in the washing machine.
Bleaching
Normally the symbol is crossed out. Ironing three dots for cotton
and linen; two dots for acetate, metallised fibres, polyamide,
polyester, tri-acetate, viscose, wool, angora and silk; one dot for
acrylic, modacrylic, elastane. The symbol should be crossed out
for chlorofibres and polypropylene.
Dry cleaning
Only use the symbol P. The bar under the symbol only to be used
for delicate fabrics, especially those made from angora.#
Tumble drying
Two dots for all cotton and linen articles, one dot for all other com-
positions. Care should be taken that articles are finished properly
to prevent excessive shrinkage. This should be tested.
Note: the ‘weakest’ fibre determines the selection of the symbols in
blended materials.
Ecolabels
In the late nineties and at the beginning of the millennium, various
competing ecolabels were popular all over Europe. In the be-
ginning, they were mainly used for under- and baby wear. Many
labels have now disappeared and the approach to the whole ‘eco-
logical’ issue about textiles and clothing is broader and considers
the whole supply-chain from the crop over the production process
up to the delivery into the shop. Social and environmental aspects
play an important role (cf. chapter on ‘Trade Related Environmen-
tal and Social Issues’).
Currently, the German/Swiss Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is widely
accepted in the EU countries and Switzerland as well.
Öko-Tex 100
A recent statistical evaluation of the certificates issued throughout
the world highlighted the importance of the Oeko-Tex Standard
100 as the world’s leading test label of its type at this time. Today,
this label is the most widely used, and among European con-
sumers best-known, ecolabel in relation to textiles and clothing.
It was developed in 1993 by the ‘International Association for
Research and Testing in the field of Textile Ecology’ and changed
Outerwear 2010 l 134
in 1997. Companies in the EU, Switzerland and throughout the
world have applied for more than 82'000 certificates (2009 data).
The headquarters of Oeko-Tex International is located in Zürich/
Switzerland (www.oeko-tex.com).
Obtaining the Oeko-Tex label involves testing for harmful sub-
stances according to the criteria which are laid down for each
product class. Harmful substances may have negative effect on
the human health. Importers from outside the EU have become
aware of the significance of this label. The number of the importers
who ask for Oeko-Tex is growing continuously.
The standard specifies four article classes:
• Articles for babies
• Articles in direct contact with skin
• Articles without direct skin contact
• Decoration material
The standard consists of the following fundamental
guidelines:
• Requirements apply to the end product only
• Exclusion of certain dyes which can cause cancer or allergic
reactions
• No flame retardant or biochemical treatment allowed
• Limitation of harmful substances in the end product (pesticides,
formaldehyde, heavy metals)
• Differentiated limitations according to textile types and target
groups
The Oeko-Tex 100 Standard comprehensively addresses the
Human Ecology component of textile products. It evaluates and
screens for any harmful substances present within processed tex-
tiles intended to come into contact with consumers. The advantage
for clothing exporters of applying for Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is
that this system is built up in a modular way and enables reliable
135 l Outerwear 2010
and comprehensive assessment within a realistic time frame. This
is advantageous when considering the nature of the clothing and
textile industry with its fashion-conscious, dynamic pace.
The Oeko-Tex scheme is available to manufacturers world-wide.
Although it is far more cost effective to test at each stage of the
production process, it is still possible to certify the finished product
itself at any time. Another advantage of the system is, that if a pro-
duct is checked and certified at a particular stage of the production
process chain, it can then be used in the next stage without having
to be re-tested.
The designation is restricted to one year, after which the product
will need to undergo new testing. The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 as
well as the Oeko-Tex 100 plus label have achieved a worldwide
acceptance with an increased number of registered companies
also in Asia and South America.
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus
The first edition of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 was issued in 1995.
It outlined the requirements for environmentally friendly produc-
tion. Manufacturing sites fulfilling a strict set of criteria, addressing
areas such as banned chemicals and harmful manufacturing
processes were licensed to carry the label ‘Umweltfreundliche
Betriebsstätte’ (lit. Environmentally Friendly Manufacturing Site)
which they could use as proof of an environmental management
system. First organizations were subsequently audited in a pilot
project.
The ‘Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus’ label was awarded for the first
time in 1999. This related to a finished product which fulfilled the
requirements of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and was also produ-
ced only on sites carrying the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 licence.
Generally speaking, it can be recommended that clothing expor-
ters from developing and emerging countries should concentrate
on this OekoTex 100 label. The Oeko-Tex label can be used to
distinguish a textile product from competitors.
8.1.3  Trade related environmental and social issues
Apart from legal requirements, nowadays producers are being
confronted more and more with additional requirements. EU and
Swiss buyers want more information from producers, for example
about the social conditions at their production sites or environmen-
tally sound production. Many companies are now, before signing
any contract with their suppliers checking the fulfilment of the so-
cial standards at the production site. The BSCI programme (more
details under www.bsci-eu.org) is one organisation that takes a
closer look on the social standards of producers. Although the
requirements in this field are not a part of official legislation and
have no legal basis, it is recommended to take them into account
in order to be competitive.
If a manufacturer wants to indicate to external parties that he is
manufacturing in an environmentally sound way, he can comply
with standards which have been developed for this purpose. The
major standards and current market requirements are described in
this chapter.
Environmental requirements
Environmental aspects play an important role for outerwear
manufacturers interested in exporting to the European market
given that environmental aspects are a major issue in the EU and
Switzerland. Besides governmental actions (legislative, regulati-
ons), a strong consumer movement is not to be underestimated,
especially in the Northern and Western parts of the EU (Scandina-
via, Germany, Netherlands, United Kingdom) and in Switzerland.
These aspects are not just a trend - these are lasting issues,
which, together with other determinants such as price and quality,
have a strongest impact on the positioning of a supplier in the
European market.
The capacity of a company to use the environmental approach to-
wards its products such as eco-labels (for products, see also eco-
labels), environmental management standards (for the whole orga-
nisation) and production processes are ‘green’ marketing tools,
which have been created by governments and private parties.
Being a part of the business chain, companies in developing
countries may also become responsible for negative side effects
of their business and their impact on society, the environment and
their employees.
Environmental management system
An ‘Environmental Management System’ (EMS) is important for
environmental protection and pollution prevention in the production
phases. It is a management tool which enables an overview of
the environmental impact of the company and the possible way it
could be diminished. At the moment there are two general volun-
tary standards with which manufacturers can comply: ISO 14001
and EMAS, both of them based on the popular ISO 9000 series of
quality management standards.
The EU’s Ecological Management and Audit Scheme (EMAS) has
been operating since 1995. It applies to companies with produc-
tion facilities within the EU and therefore is not relevant for expor-
ters from developing countries. However, ISO 14001 is favoured by
exporters to the EU and Switzerland as well.
The ISO 14001 Environmental management system was publis-
hed in November 1996. It has a similar impact to the ISO 9000
Quality Management Systems series. The objective of ISO 14001
standard is to provide companies with the necessary elements of
an environmental management system, which can be integrated
into business policies to achieve environmental and economic
goals, such as compliance with legislation and demands set by the
company as well as continuous improvement of the environmental
performance of the company. ISO 14001 specifies only general
requirements for an environmental management system, but it
contains no environmental performance criteria.
Product related requirements
The main characteristics of the production process are the vast
quantities of water required and the variety of chemicals used in
the processing stages, which cause much waste. Typical environ-
mental problems associated with the production of textiles are
water pollution because of discharge of untreated effluent. Liquid
wastes arising from washing contain a substantial organic and
suspended pollution load, such as fibres and grease. Effluents are
generally hot, alkaline, strong smelling and coloured by chemicals
used in dyeing processes. Some of the chemicals discharged are
toxic and can lower the dissolved oxygen of receiving waters, thre-
aten aquatic life and damage general water quality downstream.
There are many ways to reduce the amount of water used and
emitted. Concerning dyes and pigments, there are many alterna-
tives available which are less polluting. Other technologies make it
possible to use less dye and reduce or eliminate spillage of dyes.
Quality related requirements
A quality related requirement is the so called Quality management
standards which refer to the management of a company. This is
in contrast to most of the other standards, labels and markings
described, all of which relate to product or production processes.
Quality management standards are not compulsory for mar-
ket entry into the EU; however, they can definitely contribute to
the company’s image in the market. The most important quality
management system is ISO 9000, inspired by the concept of Total
Quality Management. TQM is a philosophy based on customer sa-
Outerwear 2010 l 136
tisfaction and continuous performance improvement. ISO establis-
hed a policy committee, DEVCO, specifically to address the needs
of developing countries. See http://www.iso.org
Azo dyes and other harmful substances
Azo dyes are among the leading colouring agents in the textile
industry, especially in developing countries. Approximately 70% of
all dyes used in the textile industry are azo dyes. There are about
2'000 different azo dyes, of which approximately 200-300 may fall
under a ban. Dyes in the category of direct, azoic/naphtol, disper-
se, acid or basic dyes may split off carcinogenic amines.
Many azo dyes above the concentration of 30 ppm are prohibited
in the EU and also in Switzerland. The ban on azo dyes is appli-
cable to all products that are in contact with skin for long periods
of time. The manufacturer must also take into consideration the
fact that the products, once they have entered the EU, can be ‘re-
exported’ or transferred easily to Switzerland and other European
countries. Therefore, it is highly recommendable to follow the Azo
regulations.
The best way to avoid problems with banned azo dyes is to use
only dyes which are absolutely safe. Use dyestuff supplied by
reputable manufacturers, who give the Colour Index numbers, the
generic names and material data sheets. Ask for azo-safe certi-
ficates, choose reputable certified laboratories and discuss this
matter with your customer.
Other substances used in the textile and clothing industry that are
banned (or allowed to a limited extent) in some EU countries and
Switzerland are: pentachlorophenol (PCP), cadmium, formalde-
hyde and nickel. Polychlorobipheniles (PCB) and terphenyles
(PCT) have a total prohibition, as do asbestos and certain flame
retardants.
Flame retardants
Flame retardants are used in textiles to reduce their flammability.
Tri- (2, 3, -dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) and tris-(aziridinyl)-
phosphineoxide (TEPA) are both carcinogenic and mutagenic,
which means that these substances may alter genetic material.
Polybromobiphenyles (PBB) are highly persistent, carcinogenic
and reprotoxic. Moreover they also have effects on the immune
system and the nerve system.
137 l Outerwear 2010
Since 1 June 2009, the prohibition of the use of three flame
retardants is laid down in Annex XVII to the EU Regulation (EC)
1907/2006 on the registration, evaluation and authorisation of che-
micals (REACH), which is directly applicable in all member states.
Until this date, this matter was regulated by means of Directive
76/769/EEC on the marketing and use of certain dangerous sub-
stances and preparations and its amendments, which is repealed
by the REACH Regulation.
The EU legislation prohibits the use of:
• Tri-(2, 3, -dibromopropyl)-phosphate (TRIS) (CAS No1 126-72-7)
• Tris-(aziridinyl)-phosphineoxide (TEPA) (CAS No 5455-55-1)
• Polybromobiphenyles (PBB) (CAS No 59536-65-1)
in textile articles intended to come into contact with skin, like
garments, underwear and linen. They are also prohibited in Swit-
zerland.
Nickel in clothing accessories
Nickel is a metal that is sometimes used in alloys used for orna-
ments (such as armlets, bracelets and earrings) and in clothing
accessories (such as zippers and buttons). The occurrence of in-
creasing number of cases of people with nickel allergy symptoms
has forced the EU to set limits for the nickel content in products
coming in contact with the skin.
Since 1 June 2009, the restriction on the nickel1 content in certain
products is laid down in Annex XVII to the new EU Regulation
(EC) 1907/2006 on the registration, evaluation and authorisation
of chemicals (REACH), which is directly applicable in all mem-
ber states. Until this date, this matter was regulated by means of
Directive 76/769/EEC on the marketing and use of certain dan-
gerous substances and preparations and its amendments, which
will be repealed by REACH. The legislation lays down certain
requirements for specific applications which are presented in the
next table.
Perfluorooctane sulfonates (PFOS)
Perfluoroocatane sulfonates (PFOS) are commercially availa-
ble in the form of salts, derivatives and polymers. PFOS-related
substances are used for providing grease, oil and water resistance
to materials such as textiles, carpets, upholstery, leather, apparel,
paper and packaging and in general coating. The substances
used in these areas are largely PFOS-polymers for fabrics and
PFOS-substances for paper treatment and coatings. Other smaller
volume uses are in chromium plating, photography, photolithogra-
phy, fire fighting foams and in hydraulic fluids for aviation.
Recent studies have shown that the PFOS are persistent, bio-
accumulative and toxic for mammals. PFOS have the potential to
spread over large distances and produce adverse effects on the
environment. They therefore fulfil the criteria for being considered
as persistent organic pollutants (POPs). In order to protect the
environment from these substances, legislation has been laid
down that sets strict limits for the use and marketing of PFOS and
products containing PFOS.
Table 94: Maximal content of PFOS permitted
Application Max. content permitted
As a substance or < 0.005% by mass
constituent of preparations
As semi-finished products < 0.1% by mass
or articles, or parts thereof
In textiles or other coated <1 μg/m2 of the coated material
materials
The ban on the use of PFOS in the production process does
not apply to producers from outside EU. Depending on national
legislation, it is possible for producers to use PFOS in their country
of origin and export their products to the EU. However producers
from outside the EU will have to comply with the limits regarding
the marketing of PFOS and products containing PFOS mentioned
above.
Reach and directive 76/769/EEC
On 1 June 2007 the EU Regulation (EC) 1907/2006 on Chemicals
entered into force. This Regulation concerns a single integrated
system for the registration, evaluation and authorisation of che-
micals (REACH). The provisions set by this legislation place obli-
gations and restrictions on producers, importers and downstream
users of chemicals depending on the properties of the substance
and the quantities they handle per year.
REACH legislation repeals Directive 76/769/EEC and its require-
ments are as from June 2009 implemented in Annex XVII of the
REACH Regulation.
Social requirements
Encouraged by consumer organizations, the consciousness of
ethical trading aspects has achieved growing emphasis in many
EU countries and in Switzerland. This has led to the develop-
ment of codes of conduct by many importers. There is a growing
concern among buyers of clothing about the use of child labour in
the factories of new suppliers. Exporters who can guarantee that
their products are made without child labour have a competitive
advantage over other products and a better chance of establi-
shing a long-term business relationship. Exporting companies in
developing countries mostly are requested to apply principles of
corporate conduct compatible with the Code of Conduct of their
partner company in the EU.
These social requirements are gaining importance on European
markets and are becoming a precondition for international trade.
The so-called social codes are often corporate codes.
In addition, the EU has added a ‘social clause’ to the Generalized
System of Preferences (GSP), which allows for special import tariff
reductions for products that are produced in a humane way. The
garment industry and the trade associations in some EU countries
are developing a model code of ethical conduct for the production
of all items. A similar system for Switzerland is not planned as yet.
Occasionally, consumers or citizens form pressure groups (some-
times even demonstrating on the streets) to force government to
put an end to business practices they find unethical or anti-social.
Such ‘consumerist movements’ succeeded in setting government
rules; the SA 8000 (Social Accountability) is an example of such.
The fact that consumers don’t accept certain practices demands
that suppliers adopt new processes or materials.
Code of conduct
A Code of Conduct was agreed in September 1997 by European
textiles union (ETUF-TCL) and EURATEX (employers’ organiza-
tion). The agreement applies not only to the European enterprises
(mainly EU and Switzerland), but also to their subcontractors or
subsidiaries in developing countries. One objective of their deve-
lopment is to demonstrate a company’s social responsibility.
The core thought of the agreement is following: companies are
responsible for their social role. Business ethics and integrity are
major determinants of the quality of a company. Companies are
also responsible for establishing their own General Business Prin-
Outerwear 2010 l 138
ciples or Codes of Conduct. These reflect the company’s position
towards business ethics, labour conditions, environment. They
should point out the contribution of the company to these issues.
The company also has to introduce mechanisms which measure
the true effectiveness of the Code of Conduct.
Social Accountability (SA 8000)
SA 8000 is an international standard for social accountability and
was founded in 1997. Its purpose is to ensure ethical sourcing
of goods and services. It is a voluntary standard, which sets
basic standards for child labour, forced labour, health and safety,
freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining,
discrimination, disciplinary practices, wage levels, working hours
and compensation. The requirements in the standard are based
on recommendations of the International Labour Organization
(ILO) and on agreements and conventions of the United Nations
(Human Rights, Rights of the Child).
SA 8000 supports the demands of consumers for worldwide social
standards and is internationally recognized. SA 8000 accreditation
is valid for three years with surveillance and observation audits
every six months. Those that meet the requirements have the right
to display the SA 8000 certification mark.
Clean Clothes Campaign
The European wide ‘Clean Clothes Campaign’ based in Amster-
dam, which is based on the SA 8000 regulations, is also politically
very strong in Switzerland. This organization publishes regular
newsletters regarding ‘social behaviour’ when dealing with the
supplier countries of leading Swiss clothing retailers and manufac-
turers (please compare www.cleanclothes.ch and www.evb.ch).
Sources of Information
For detailed information about environmental aspects relevant to
trade at EU level, please refer to the websites of SIPPO and CBI
(www.sippo.ch and www.cbi.nl, especially the CBI Access Guide.
Other sources of information are the WTO web site (http://www.
wto.org), the European Commission (http://europa.eu).
8.1.4  Present trade regulations
European Union
All EU countries apply common Customs tariffs to imports from
outside the Union. If there is no special trade agreement in force,
the general import tariff applies.
139 l Outerwear 2010
Most of the developing countries have been granted special trade
preferences; these countries usually benefit from zero duties
through preferential treatment under the Renewed Generalised
System of Preferences (RGSP) or under the 4th Lomé Convention
for the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP) countries.
RGSP (Renewed Generalised System of Preferences)
This agreement allows products originating in the countries
concerned to be imported at preferential tariffs or, for the least
developed countries even duty-free. A ‘Certificate of Origin Form
A’ has to be filled in by the exporter and issued by the competent
authorities. Tariff contingents and ceilings do not exist any more.
As stated in Resolution 21 (ii) taken at the UNCTAD II Conference
in New Delhi in 1968;
"… the objectives of the generalized, non-reciprocal, non-discrimi-
natory system of preferences in favour of the developing countries,
including special measures in favour of the least advanced among
the developing countries, should be:
(a) to increase their export earnings;
(b) to promote their industrialization; and
(c) to accelerate their rates of economic growth."
Under GSP schemes of preference-giving counties, selected
products originating in developing countries are granted reduced
or zero tariff rates over the MFN rates. The least developed coun-
tries (LDCs) receive special and preferential treatment for a wider
coverage of products and deeper tariff cuts.
The idea of granting developing countries preferential tariff rates in
the markets of industrialized countries was originally presented by
Raul Prebisch, the first Secretary-General of UNCTAD, at the first
UNCTAD conference in 1964. The GSP was adopted at UNCTAD
II in New Delhi in 1968.
In 1971, the GATT Contracting Parties approved a waiver to Article
I of the General Agreement for 10 years in order to authorize the
GSP scheme. Later, the Contracting Parties decided to adopt the
1979 Enabling Clause, Decision of the Contracting Parties of 28
November 1979 (26S/203) entitled "Differential and more favou-
rable treatment, reciprocity and fuller participation of developing
countries", creating a permanent waiver to the most-favoured-nati- • Lebanon
on clause to allow preference-giving countries to grant preferential • Macedonia
tariff treatment under their respective GSP schemes. • Mexico
• Morocco
There are currently 13 national GSP schemes notified to the UNC- • Palestinian National Authority
TAD secretariat. The following countries grant GSP preferences: • Singapore
Australia, Belarus, Bulgaria, Canada, Estonia, the European • Southern African Customs Union
Union, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, the Russian Federation, (Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, Swaziland, South Africa)
Switzerland, Turkey and the United States of America. • Tunisia
• Turkey
Lomé Convention (for ACP countries)
The partnership agreement between the European Union (EU) Signed agreement 2008, not yet ratified
member states and the African, Caribbean and Pacific (ACP)
states marks five generations of agreements between ACP-EC • Colombia
sovereign states. It is the world’s largest financial and political
framework for North-South cooperation. Signed agreement 2009, not yet ratified

Its main characteristics are: • Gulf Co-operation Council (Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman,
Qatar, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates)
the partnership principle, the contractual nature of the relationship,
and the combination of aid, trade and political aspects, together Finalised negotiations 2008
with its long-term perspective (5 years for Lomé I, II, and III, and
ten for Lomé IV). Products originating in the ACP countries can be • Peru
imported without duties and quotas, when a ‘Movement Certificate
EUR.1’ is filled in by the exporter and issued by the competent Currently negotiating agreements
authorities, such as the local Chamber of Commerce. Tariff contin-
gents and tariff ceilings no longer exist. • Algeria
• Hong Kong
Preferential duty regimes under Free Trade Agreements (FTAs) • India
The EU also has many free trade agreements with partners in the • Thailand
region (the central European countries, the Mediterranean coun-
tries) and beyond (Mexico, Chile). FTAs now increasingly involve Declarations on Cooperation
provisions affecting non-tariff measures and regulatory issues
such as provisions on trade facilitation and rule-making in areas • Albania
such as investment, intellectual property, government procure- • Mercosur (Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay)
ment, technical standards and SPS issues. • Mongolia
• Serbia
The following Free Trade Agreement is also valid for Switzerland: • Ukraine

• Canada Non-tariff barriers

• Chile Examples of non-tariff barriers are anti-dumping measures,
• Croatia sanitary sanctions, quota restrictions, environmental clauses and
• Egypt intellectual property rights. The most important form of non-tariff
• Israel barriers regarding clothing is quota restrictions.
• Jordan
• South Korea

Outerwear 2010 l 140

Many clothing items are already quota-free, but WTO rules allow
importer countries to impose anti-dumping duties if there is evi-
dence that markets are being disrupted by selling below costs.
Anti-dumping measures
Anti-dumping implies that, under WTO regulations, exporters are
expected to sell their products at fair market value, at a price abo-
ve cost and without imposing higher domestic prices for the same
product that would in effect subsidize their lower export prices. In
the event of predatory pricing by a particular company or country,
the importing country is allowed to impose a duty surcharge on the
imported product, to bring the final price up to fair market value.
Anti-fraud investigations and actions
Besides anti-dumping measures, the EU is stepping up anti-fraud
investigations and actions against fraud designed to:
• circumvent trade policy measures, such as anti-dumping
measures;
• benefit illegally from preferential treatment such as that
under GSP;
• cheat consumers (claiming EU origin for products produced
elsewhere);
• combat counterfeiting and piracy (copying exclusive designs
and models without permission of the owner).
Financial instruments in the EU
The awarding of tariff preferences or the levying of ‘environmental
taxes’ on products is one of the major instruments of the
EU (besides legislation) to promote environmentally sound
products. Such preferential systems are the common subsidy
and schemes, Green GSP, which works on the assumption
that extra preferences can be awarded on top of the preferences
for producers who show their commitment to the environment
and who search for cleaner production techniques to reduce the
environmental damage from their production processes and final
products. The EU principle ‘the polluter pays’ becomes obvious
as responsibilities for pollution prevention and clean-up are
increasingly placed in the hand of the polluter. European importers
faced with this will want to share such extra costs with their
developing country partners.
141 l Outerwear 2010
Switzerland
General Foreign Trade Conditions - World Trade Organization
(WTO) and Free Trade Agreements
On July 1st, 1995 Switzerland joined the WTO (formerly GATT)
and since then has applied the ‘most favoured clause’ regarding
trade to all WTO member countries. This also applies to dealings
with regions and countries where Switzerland has signed bilate-
ral or multilateral agreements on trade. Furthermore, by joining
the WTO, Switzerland had to change most of the non-tariff trade
barriers to customs duties. Moreover, Switzerland is a member of
the European Free Trade Association (EFTA). The dismantling of
tariffs by the EFTA, in parallel to the European Economic Commu-
nity (EEC), has eliminated to a large degree the customs duties
between the European Union (EU), the EFTA countries and Swit-
zerland, at least as regards industrial products (including clothing).
Within the EFTA framework, Switzerland is part of the Schengen
Area. Further, ‘pan- European cumulation’ has been in effect since
July 1st 1997. Switzerland has entered bilateral trade agreements
with numerous other countries to prevent double taxation and to
protect and promote mutual investment.
The Swiss generalised system of preferences
General principles
The preferential treatment given to exports of developing coun-
tries is designed to help increase and diversify their export. The
Swiss Generalised System of Preferences (GSP) was introduced
on March 1st, 1972 in compliance with Switzerland’s intention to
implement Resolution 21 (II) adopted by the United Nations Confe-
rence on Trade And Development (UNCTAD) in 1968.
Beneficiaries of preferences
In principle, all developing countries and economies in transition
are eligible for preferences under the Swiss scheme, with the
exception of countries or territories that have reached a high
level of development. The exclusion is based on objective criteria.
GSP benefits will not be granted to countries which are mem-
bers of OECD or have a free trade agreement with Switzerland.
Also excluded are countries which the Development Assistance
Committee (DAC) of the OECD has classified as a most advanced
developing country or territory under Part II of its list of develop-
ment aid recipients. Scope of preferences
Switzerland grants preferential reductions amounting to 50% of the
normal rate on textiles and clothing. The least developed coun-
tries benefit from exemption for clothing and textiles. Complete
up-to-date information on custom tariffs may be obtained from the
Federal Customs Administration OZD.
Rules of Origin
The Swiss Scheme includes rules of origin which the goods must
comply with in order to qualify for GSP treatment. To satisfy the
rules of origin, the goods have to be either wholly produced in
the beneficiary country or they must have undergone working or
processing in a beneficiary country to specific processing criteria
laid down in the regulations.
The prerequisites for the origin of import textiles and clothing ap-
plied in the Swiss Generalised System of Preferences have been
harmonised with EU and Norway. The rules related to the origin of
manufactured goods were adapted to conform with the Pan- Euro-
pean cumulation system of October 1st, 1998. Therefore, textiles
and clothing containing raw materials from EU countries and
Norway may also be granted preference.
8.1.5  Implications after the elimination of the textile quotas
The main challenges facing the European Union and Swiss
textiles and clothing sector today are globalisation, modernisation
and a murderous competition. Market access and fair trade have
a higher priority for the textiles and clothing sector than 5 years
back. Opening new markets, negotiations of bilateral agreements
are aimed at ensuring that industry has time to adjust to full libe-
ralisation.
The EU and Swiss apparel imports showed a constant increase
in recent years. In their outsourcing strategies, EU and Swiss
manufacturers prefer Eastern European countries even over some
Asian countries with even lower wage rates (such as Vietnam or
China) due to their geographical proximity and their higher quality
standards. Thus, EU and Swiss companies remain able to respond
quickly to changing market demands.

Custom tariff
Customs duties
Although Switzerland has been a member of the Schengen Area
since the end of 2008, it is not part of the European Customs Uni-
on. As a result, customs controls remain in place. The most impor-
tant document for customs clearance is the customs declaration,
which must be accompanied by the exporter’s invoice (indicating
the weight) and confirmation of origin. A certificate of origin is
required if one wishes to benefit from preferential duty rates or if
the goods are to be re-exported.

Unlike most other countries, Switzerland uses a system of

customs clearance based on weight. This specific customs duty
is therefore levied on products from non-EU/EFTA countries on
the basis of weight. As a result, Swiss customs duties are usually
lower than those of other countries. This favours the importation of
high-quality technical components, which weigh very little but are
extremely valuable.

VAT (7.6%) is much lower than in neighbouring countries (Germa-

ny: 19%, France: 19.6%, Austria: 20%, Italy: 20%).

Outerwear 2010 l 142

9. Appendix.
9.1 Associations of trade agents, wholesalers organisations and retail
organisations in the countries analysed.
9.1.1  Europe
AEDT
European Association of
National Organisations of
Textile Retailers
9.1.2  France
Federation Nationale des
Entreprises A Commerces
Multiples
Federation of multiples and
department stores
Federation Nationale des
Grands Magasins et des
Magasins Populaires
National federation of de-
partment stores
143 l Outerwear 2010
9.1.3 Germany
9-13/4th,
Avenue des Nerviens
B - 1040 Bruxelles
Tel.: +32 – 2 – 230 5296
Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 2569
www.aedt.org
info@aedt.org
46, Bd Magenta
F - 75010 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4202 1769
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4206 5209
(no website)
11, rue Saint-Florentin
F - 75008 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 42 60 02
Fax: +33 – 1 – 42 60 15 09
(no website)
Aussenhandelsverei-
nigung des Deutschen
Einzelhandels Ev (Ave)
Foreign Trade Association of
German Retailers
Bundesverband Des
Deutschen Gross- Und
Aussenhandels E.V. (BGA)
Federal Association of
German
Wholesalers and Exporters
Bundesverband des Deut-
schen Textileinzelhandels
E. V. (BTE)
Association of German
Textile Retailers
Bundesverband des Deut-
schen Versandhandels eV
Association Of German Mail
Ordercompanies
Centralvereinigung
Deutscher Wirtschafts-
verbände Für Handels-
vermittlung und Vertrieb
(CDH)
National Association of
Trade Agents
Mauritiussteinweg 1
D - 50676 Köln
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 921834 – 0
Fax: +49 – 221 – 921834 – 6
www.ave-koeln.de
info@ave-koeln.de
Am Weidendamm 1 A
D - 10117 Berlin
Tel.: +49 – 305 – 900 995 – 0
Fax: +49 – 305 – 900 995 – 19
www.bga.de
info@bga.de
An Lyskirchen 14
D - 50676 Köln
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 921 509 – 0
Fax: +49 – 221 – 921 509 – 10
www.bte.de
info@bte.de
Johann-Klotz-Str. 12
D - 60528 Frankfurt/M.
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 678 656 – 0
Fax: +49 – 69 – 678 656 – 29
www.versandhandel.org
info@versandhandel.org
Am Weidenbaum 1 A
D - 10117 Berlin
Tel.: +49 – 30 – 726 25600
Fax: +49 – 30 – 726 25699
www.cdh.de
centralvereinigung@cdh.de
9.1.4  Italy
Camera Nazionale Della
Moda Italiana
National Fashion Organi-
sation
Federazione Nazionale
Associazioni Agenti e
Rappresentanti di
Commercio
National Organisation of
Trade Agents
and Representatives
Federazione Nazionale
Dettaglianti Tessili e
Abbigliamento
National Organisation of Tex-
tile and Clothing Retailers
Federazione Moda Italia
Italian Fashion Organisation
Sistema Moda Italia (SMI)
Association of Italian Textile
and Clothing Industry
9.1.5  Spain
V. Morone Gerolamo 6
I - 20121 Milano (MI)
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 777 1081
Fax:
+39 (0) – 2 777 10850 62
www.cameramoda.it
cameramoda@cameramo-
da.it
Corso Venezia, 51
I - 20121 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 764 5191
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 7600 8493
www.fnaarc.it
info@fnaarc.it
Via Palestro, 24
I - 20121 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 7601
5212
Fax:
+39 (0) – 2 – 7600 3779
(no website)
Via Durini, 14
I - 20122 – Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-7601 5212
Fax: +39 (0) – 2-7600 3779
www.federazionemodaitalia.it
info@federazionemodaitalia.it
Viale Sarca, 223
I - 20126 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 641191
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 66103667
www.sistemamodaitalia.it
info@sistemamodaitalia.it
Asociacion de Comercio
Textil - Acotex
Association of Textile Trade
Companies in the Region of
Madrid
Asociacion Espanola de
Importadores y Distribui-
dores de Moda (Animoda)
Association of Fashion Im-
porters and Wholesalers
Consejo Intertextil Espa-
nol (CIE)
Spanish International Textile
Association
Gremi de Comerc Textil i
Sastreria
Trade Association for Textile
and Clothing
Secretaria General de
Comercio Exterior
General Secretary of Fo-
reign Trade
C. Alberto Aguilera 66
1-DCHA
E - 28015 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-549 2397
Fax: +34-91-549 9256
www.acotex.org
Lagasca 27-2 A
E - 28001 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-4352 805
Fax: +34-91-5761-735
www.animoda.org
Gran Via 670
E - 08010 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-318 9200
Fax: +34-93-302 6235
www.aitpa.es
aitpa@aitpa.es
Diputaci 290 pral.
E - 08009 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-933-017980
Fax: +34-933-018720
www.gremicomerctextil.es
agtc@bcn.servicom.es
Paeso de la Castellana 162
E - 28071 Madrid
www.mcx.es
Buzon.Oficial@secgcomex.
sscc.mcx.es
Outerwear 2010 l 144
9.1.6  Switzerland
Swiss Fashion Stores CH - 3073 Gümlingen
Tel.: +41-31-384 77 04
Association of Fashion Fax: +41-31-384 76 96
retailers www.swiss-fashion-stores.ch
c/o KPMG Fides - Hofgut office@swiss-fashion-stores.ch
Swiss Retail Federation Marktgasse 50
CH - 3000 Bern 7
Federation of retailers Tel.: +41-31-312 40 40
Fax: +41-31-312 40 41
www.swiss-retail.ch
info@swiss-retail.ch
VSF – Verband Frohburgstr. 98
Schweizerischer CH - 8006 Zürich
Filialunternehmen Tel.: +41-44-363 14 00
Fax: +41-44-363 15 25
Federation of Swiss Chain www.vsf-schweiz.ch
Stores - vsf@ku-law.ch
c/o
Advokaturbüro Utzinger
VSIG – Vereinigung des Güterstr. 78
Schweizer Import- und CH - 4010 Basel
Grosshandels Tel.: +41-61-228 90 30
Fax: +41-61-228 90 39
Association of Swiss www.vsig.ch
Importers and info@vsig.ch
Wholesalers
VSV – Verband des General Wille-Strasse 144
Schweizerischen 8706 Meilen
Versandhandels Tel.: +41-58 - 310 07 17
Fax: +41-58-310 07 18
Federation of Swiss Mail www.vsv-versandhandel.ch
Order Companies info@vsv-versandhandel.ch
145 l Outerwear 2010
9.1.7  United Kingdom
British Agents Register 5A Chelttenham Mount
Harrogate,
North Yorkshire
GB - HG1 1DW
Tel.: +44-1423-560608/9
Fax: +44-1423-561204
www.agentsregister.com
info@agentsregister.com
British Fashion Council Somerset House, South Wing
Strand, London, WC2R 1LA
Tel.: +44 - 20-7759 1999
www.britishfashioncouncil.com
info@britishfashioncouncil.com
British Menswear Guild 5 Portland Place
GB - London, W1B 1PW
Tel.: +44-20-7580 8783
Fax: +44-20-7436 8833
www.british-menswear-guild.
co.uk
director@british-mens-wearguild.
co.uk
British shops and store Middleton House
Association Ltd. (Bssa) 2 Main Road –
Middleton Cheney
GB - Banbury – Oxon OX17 2TN
Tel.: +44-1295-712277
Fax: +44-1295-711665
www.british-shops.co.uk
info@bssa.co.uk
9.2 Industry federations in
Switzerland and EU-countries.
9.2.1  France
Union Francaise
des Industries de
l’habillement (UFIH)
French Clothing Manufac-
turers Association
Union Des Industries
Textiles (UIT)
Textile Industry Asso-
ciation
9.2.2 Germany
GermanFashion Mode-
verband Deutschland e.V
German Fashion Fede-
ration
Gesamtverband der
deutschen Textil- und
Modeindustrie e.V.
German Textile and Fa-
shion Industry
9.2.3  Italy
Federtessile
Textile Industry Federation
8, rue de Montesquieu
F - 75001 Paris
Tel: + 33 - 1 44 55 66 60
Fax: +33 - 1 44 55 66 66
www.lamodefrancaise.org
secretariatufih@lamodefran-
caise.org
37/39, rue de Neuilly
F - 92110 Clichy
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4756 3100
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4730 2528
www.textile.fr
admin@textile.fr
An Lyskirchen 14
D - 50676 Köln
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 7744 – 0
Fax: +49 – 221 – 7744 – 137
www.germanfashion.net
info@germanfashion.net
Reinhardtstr. 12 -14
10117 Berlin
Tel: +49 - 30 726220-0
Fax +49 - 30 726220-44
www.textile-online.de
info@textil-mode.de
Viale Sarca 223
I - 20126 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-6610 3440
Fax: 39 (0) – 2-6610 3455
9.2.4  Spain
AITPA
National Association of
Textile Industry
Asociación Española de
Constructores de Maqui-
naria Textil y de Confec-
cion
Association of Spanish Knit-
wear and Ready-to-Wear
Manufacturers
9.2.5  Switzerland
Schweizerischer Gewer-
beverband
Swiss Trade Association
Swissfashion – Gesamt-
verband Der Schweize-
rischen Bekleidungsindu-
strie
Swiss Clothing Manufactu-
rers Association
Gran Via 670
E - 08010 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-318 9200
Fax: +34-93-302 6235
www.aitpa.es
aitpa@aitpa.es
Riera Sant Miquel 3
E - 08006 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-934-150 422
Fax: +34-934-160 980
www.amec.es/amtex
amtex@amec.es
Schwarztorstrasse 26
Postfach
CH-3001 Bern
Tel: +41 31 380 14 14
Fax: +41 31 380 14 15
www.sgv-usam.ch
info@sgv.usam.ch
Beethovenstrasse 20
CH - 8022 Zürich
Tel.: +41-44-289 79 79
Fax: +41-44-289 79 80
www.swisstextiles.ch
zuerich@swisstextiles.ch
Outerwear 2010 l 146
9.2.6  United Kingdom

British Apparel & Textile 5, Portland Place

Confederation GB - London W1N 3AA
Tel: +44-171-636 7788
Fax: +44-171-636 7515
www.apparel-textiles.co.uk

The British Chambers Of 65 Petty France

Commerce St James Park
GB - London SW1H 9E4
Tel.: +44-20-7654 5800
Fax : +44-20-7654 5819
www.britishchambers.org.uk
info@britishchambers.org.uk

Confederation Of British Textile House

Wool Textiles Red Doles Lane
Huddersfield HD2 1YF
Tel.: +44-1484 346500
Fax: +44-1484 346501
www.cbwt.co.uk
info@cbwt.co.uk

147 l Outerwear 2010

9.3 Major European trade fairs.
9.3.1  France 9.3.2 Germany

Fatex - Paris 37/39, rue de Neuilly – BP CPD Stockumer Kirchstr. 61

121 D - 40474 Düsseldorf
Woman/Man incl. Global
F - 92582 Clichy Cedex Tel.: +49 – 211 – 4396 – 01
organised by: Fashion
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4730 5494 Fax: +49 – 211 – 4396 – 345
Profatex Sa
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4730 9450 www.igedo.com
organised by: IGEDO
www.fatex.fr info@igedo.com
Internationale Modemesse
info@fatex.fr
Kronen GmbH & Co.KG

Interselection – Paris Rue de Neuilly

Messegelände
F - 92113 Clichy Cedex
ISPO – Munich D - 81823 München
organized by: Tel +33 – 1 – 4756 3232
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 949 – 11388
Intersélection – Groupe Fax: +33 – 1 – 4756 3299
(Active Sportswear) Fax: +49 – 89 – 949 – 11389
Eurovet www.interselection.net
organised by: www.ispo.com
interselection@la-federati-
Messe München GmbH ispo@messe-muenchen.de
on.com

Première Vision – Paris Le Britannia – Batiment A20
Bld. Eugène Deruelle
(Textile Fabrics Fair) F - 69432 Lyon Cedex 3
organised by: Tel.: +33 – 4 – 7260 6500
Première Vision Fax: +33 – 4 – 7260 6509
www.premierevision.fr
info@premierevision.fr
Kid’s Fashion 999 chée d’Alsemberg
– Mode Enfantine B - 1180 Brussels
Tel.: +32 – 2 – 376 5747
Kids Fahion Fairs in Paris Fax: +32 – 2 – 332 0880
and Brussels www.kidsfashionfairs.com
organized by Kid’s Fashion visitorskids@bff.be
Mode
Enfantine SA/NV
Kind + Jugend – Cologne
Bread And Butter
Trade fair for selected brands
in Berlin and Barcelona
Bread & Butter GmbH Head-
quarter:
Messeplatz 1
D - 50679 Köln
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 821 – 0
Fax: +49 – 221 – 821 – 2574
www.koelnmesse.de
info@koelnmesse.de
Münzstrasse 13
D - 10178 Berlin
Service Hotline
(Accreditation + Tickets):
+49 – 30 – 2000 – 370
Tel.: +49 – 30 – 400 – 44 – 0
(Headquarter)
Fax: +49 – 30 – 400 – 44 – 101
www.breadandbutter.com
info@breadandbutter.com

5, rue Caumartin
Salon du Pret à Porter F - 75009 Paris
Paris Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4494 7000
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4494
French association of Prêt 7002/7004
à Porter www.pretparis.com
info@pretparis.com

WHO’S NEXT URBAN 23, rue du Mail

SHOW SA. F - 75002 Paris
Tel.: +33 – 140 13 74 74
Fax: +33 – 140 13 74 84
www.whosnext.com
info@whosnext.com

Outerwear 2010 l 148

9.3.3  Italy 9.3.5  United Kingdom

Ideacomo – Cernobbio Via Regina, 40 MODA UK – Birmingham Tel.: +44-1484-846069

organised by:
Ente Fieristico Ideacomo
Modaprima – Milano
organized by:
EFIMA – Ente Fiere Italiane
aglieria e Abbigliamento
Pitti Bimbo – Florence
organised by:
Pitti Immagine srl
I - 22012 Cernobbio
Tel.: +39 (0) – 31 – 513312
Fax: +39 (0) – 31 – 340022
www.ideacomo.com
ideacomo@ideacomo.com
Viala Sarca 223
I - 20126 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 661 631
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 6610 1638
www.modaprima.it
info@modaprima.it
Via Faenza 111
I - 50123 Florence
Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 – 36931
Fax: +39 (0) – 55 – 3693200
www.pittimmagine.com
bimbo@bittimmagine.com
Fax: +44-1484-846232
www.moda-uk.co.uk
organised by:
info@moda-uk.co.uk
ITE Moda Ltd.
33-39 Bowling Green Lane
UK Pure Womenswear
GB - London, EC1R 0DA
London Tel.: +44-20-7812-3700
Fax: +44-20-7812-3710
(all kinds of women’s wear www.purewomenswear.co.uk
and fashion accessories) info@emap.com
organised by: Emap Retail
33-39 Bowling Green Lane
Premier Kids Birmingham GB - London, EC1R 0DA
Tel.: +44-20-7812-3700
organised by: Fax: +44-20-7812-3710
Emap Retail www.purewomenswear.co.uk
info@emap.com

Via Faenza 111

Pitti Uomo – Florence
organised by:
Pitti Immagine srl
I - 50123 Florence
Tel.: +39 (0) – 55 – 36931
Fax: +39 (0) – 55 – 3693200
www.pittimmagine.com
uomo@bittimmagine.com
Remark: Comprehensive information about all European and
international fairs can be collected from the internet site: www.
auma.de

9.3.4  Spain

FIMI – Valencia Avenida de las Ferias

E - 46035 Valencia
organised by: Tel.: +34-963-861100
Feria Valencia Fax: +34-963-635111
www.feriavalencia.com
feriavalencia@feriavalencia.
com

SIMM (Int. Fashion Week) Apdo. De Correros 67.067

– Madrid E - 28080 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-7225000
organised by: Fax: +34-91-7225799
Parque Ferial Juan Carlos I www.simm.ifema.es
simm@ifema.es

149 l Outerwear 2010

9.4 European trade magazines.
9.4.1  France

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

Journal Du Textile Weekly 18’101 Textile and

Edition Hennessen SA clothing retail
61, rue de Malte
F - 75541 Paris Cedex 11
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4357 2189
Fax: +33 – 1 – 4700 0835
www.journaldutextile.com
contact@journaldutextile.com

9.4.2  Germany

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

Klar-Text Weekly on Mondays 2’500 Textile and

Das Klar’sche Textilarchiv Special edition specialized retail
GmbH once per year – and industry –
Thann 28 6’700 Retail and
D - 83098 Brannenburg Clothing
Tel.: +49 – 8034 – 8686 Addresses
Fax: +49 – 8034 – 8001
www.klartext.de
info@klartext.de

SAZ Sportartikel Zeitung 2 times/month 10’000 Trade, sports

SAZ Verlag GmbH articles
Postfach 260246
D - 80059 München
Tel.: +49 – 89 – 2121 1090
Fax: +49 – 89 – 2121 1077
www.saz.de
saz@saz.de

Sportswear 6 times/year 28’700 Trade, jeans and

International sportswear
Deutscher Fachverlag GmbH
Mainzer Landstr. 251
D – 60326 Frankfurt/Main
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 7595 - 2662
Fax: +49 – 69 – 7595 - 2660
www.dfv.de – info@dfv.de

Outerwear 2010 l 150

9.4.2  Germany

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

TM Fashion Trend Weekly 28’000 Textile and

Magazine clothing trade
Branche & Business
Fachverlag GmbH & Co.KG
Königsallee 70
D - 40212 Düsseldorf
Tel.: +49 – 211 – 8 3030
Fax: +49 – 211 – 324862
www.tm-fashion-portal.de
info@textilmitteilungen.de

TW Textilwirtschaft Weekly 28’200 Textile and

Deutscher Textilverlag GmbH clothing trade
Mainzer Landstr. 251 and industry
D - 60326 Frankfurt
Tel.: +49 – 69 – 7595 01
Fax: +49 – 69 – 7595 1399
www.Twnetwork.de
info@TWnetwork.de

9.4.3  Italy

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

Fashion Weekly 18,000 Textile sector,
Edizioni Ecomarket Spa sports fashion
Corso Venezia 26
I - 20121 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 7600 7371
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 78 3012
www.fashionmagazine.it
redazione@fashionmagazine.it

Modasport Vacanze Every 3 46,000 Sport and

Acalifa Srl months Cacation Sports
Palazzina S. Rocco International
Via S. Rocco 17
I - 20135 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2 – 5831 5800
Fax: +39 (0) – 2 – 5831 6313
www.infodataitaly.com
esabbat@tin.it

Donna Collezioni – 4-6 times/year App. 50,000 Sports fashion,

Uomo Collezioni – Bambini retail, industry,
Collezioni consumer
Zanfi.editori@mo.nettuno.it

151 l Outerwear 2010

9.4.4  Spain

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

Textil Expres 4 times/year 5’500 Industry, retail

Aramo Editorial
Muntaner 50, Atico 3a
E - 08011 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-453 7938
Fax: +34-93-323 7926
aramo@docupress.es

La Moda Monthly 10’000 Textile industry

Ediciones Tecnicas Doria SA
Paseo de Gracia, 44-2
E - 08007 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-467 1212
Fax: +34-93-488 3012
www.miramedios.com
info@data-red.com

9.4.5  Switzerland

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

Mittex - SVT Zürich 6 times/year 3’000 Professional

Schweizerische Vereinigung magazine for
von Textilfachleuten SVT the textile and
c/o Gertsch Consulting knitting industry
Postfach 1107
CH-4800 Zofingen
Tel.: +41 – 62 – 751 26 39
Fax: +41 – 62 – 751 26 37
www.mittex.ch
svt@mittex.ch

Schweizer Sport Und Once a month 3’100 Sports and

Mode leisure wear
MS Dienstleistungen AG industry
Örgelackerstrasse 4
CH-8707 Uetikon am See
Tel.: +41 – 44 – 920 79 40
Fax: +41 – 44 – 920 79 41
www.sportbiz.ch
info@sportbiz.ch

Outerwear 2010 l 152

9.4.5  Switzerland

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

Textil-Revue Once a month 7’500 Textile and

Fürstenlandstr. 122 clothing industry
CH - 9001 St. Gallen
Tel.: +41 – 71 – 272 77 77
Fax: +41 – 71 – 272 74 49
www.textil-revue.ch
redaction@textil-revue.ch

9.4.6  United Kingdom

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

CWB Childrens Wear Buyer 4 times/year 4’500 Childrens’ wear,

Magazine retail
National Children’s Wear
Association
5 Portland Place
GB-London W 1B 1 PW
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7631 5445
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7631 – 3443
www.ncwa.co.uk
enquiries@ncwa.co.uk

Drapers Weekly 20’000 No. 1 of textile

DR The fashion Business publications
EMAP Business Publishing in GB
Angel House
338-346 Goswell Rd.
GB - London EC1V 7QP
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501
www.drapersonline.com

FW Weekly 10’000 Retail, industry

EMAP Fashion
Angel House
338-346 Goswell Rd.
GB - London EC1V 7QP
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501
www.emap.co.uk
information@emap.com

153 l Outerwear 2010

9.4.6  United Kingdom

Name of Magazine Publication schedule Circulation Contents

Menswear 2 times/month 11’000 Retail

EMAP Fashion
Angel House
338-346 Goswell Rd.
GB - London EC1V 7QP
Tel.: +44 – 20 – 7520 1500
Fax: +44 – 20 – 7520 1501
www.emap.co.uk
clairer@fashion.emap.co.uk

Outerwear 2010 l 154

9.5 Trade promotion organisations 9.6 Important addresses for
in Europe. environmental and social issues.

CBI – Centrum Tot Bevor- WTC-Beurs Building, CBI – Centrum Tot WTC-Beurs Building, Beursplein
dering Van De Import Uit Beursplein 37 Bevordering Van De 37
Ontwikkelingslanden P.O.Box 30009 Import Uit Ontwikke- P.O.Box 30009
NL - 3001 DA Rotterdam lingslanden NL - 3001 DA Rotterdam
Centre for the Promotion Tel.: +31 – 10 – 2013 434 Tel.: +31 – 10 – 2013 434
of Imports from Developing Fax: +31 – 10 – 4114 081 Centre for the Promotion Fax: +31 – 10 – 4114 081
Countries www.cbi.nl, cbi@cbi.nl of Imports from Develo- www.cbi.nl, cbi@cbi.nl
ping Countries www.cbi-accessguide
DIPO Børsen, Slotsholmsgade, (internet guide to European wide
DK - 1217 Copenhagen K ecological questions)
Danish Import Promotion Tel.: +45 3374 6000
Office Boersen Fax: +45 3374 6080 Commission Rue de la Loi 200
www.dipo.eu Of The European B - 1049 Brussels
dipp@danskerhverv.com Communities Tel.: +32 – 2 – 2990344
Fax: +32 – 2 – 2990313
GTZ - Gesellschaft für Dag-Hammerskjöld-Weg www.europa.eu
technische Zusammen- 1-5
arbeit D - 65726 Eschborn Forschungsinstitut Schloß Hohenstein
Tel: +49 – 6196 – 79 0 Hohenstein D - 74357 Bönningheim
German Organisation for Fax: +49 – 6196 – 79 1115 Tel.: +49 – 7143 – 2710
Technical Cooperation www.gtz.de (measurement tables Fax: +49 – 7143 – 27151
info@gtz.de and ecological issues) www.hohenstein.de
info@hohenstein.de
International Trade Cenre Palais des Nations
Unctad/Wto (ITC) CH - 1211 Geneva 10 Institut Fresenius Im Maisel 14
Tel : +41 – 22 – 730 0111 Gruppe D - 65232 Taunusstein-Neuhof
Fax : +41 – 22 – 733 4439 Tel.: +49 – 6128 – 7440
www.intracen.org (product testing) www.fresenius.com
itcreg@intracen.org info@fresenius.com

NORAD Ruselokkveien 26
Postbox 8034
Norwegian Agency for N - 0030 Oslo
Development Tel.: +47 – 22 – 24 20 30
Cooperation Fax: +47 – 22 – 24 20 31
www.norad.no
firmapost@norad.no

SIDA Sweavagen 20
Postbox 3144
Swedish International S - 10525 Stockholm
Development Tel.: +46 – 8 – 698 5000
Cooperation Agency Fax: +46 – 8 – 208864
www.sida.se
info@sida.se

155 l Outerwear 2010


9.6.1  Contact points for the Oeko-ex 100 hallmark
Deutsche Zertifizierungs-
stelle Öko-Tex
IFTH Lyon
Institut Français du Textile et
de l’Habillement
Centro Tessile Cotoniero E
Abbigliamento S.p.A.
AITEX Instituto Tecnológi-
co Textil
Shirley Technologies Ltd
Testex
Swiss Institute for Textile
Testing – International
Secretary of the Oeko-Tex
Association
Schloß Hohenstein
D - 74357 Bönningheim
Tel.: +49 – 7143 – 2710
Fax: +49 – 7143 – 27151
www.oeko-tex.com
info@oeko-tex.com
Avenue Guy de Collongue
69134 Ecully Cédex
France
Tel.: +33 472 86 1600
Fax: +33 478 43 3966
www.ifth.org
Piazza Sant’ Anna 2
21052 Busto Arsizio VA
Italy
Tel.: +39 0331 696711
Fax: +39 0331 680056
www.centrocot.it
Plaza Emilio Sala 1
03801 Alcoy
Spain
Tel.: +34 96 554 22 00
Fax: +34 96 554 34 94
www.aitex.es
Unit 12, Westpoint Enterpri-
se Park
Clarence Avenue
Trafford Park
M17 1QS Manchester
Tel.: +44 161 869 1610
Fax: +44 161 872 64692
www.shirleytech.co.uk
Gotthardstr. 61
CH - 8027 Zürich
Tel.: +41 – 1 – 206 42 42
Fax: +41 – 1 – 206 42 30
www.oeko-tex.com
info@oeko-tex.com
9.7 Sources of information.
9.7.1.  Europe
AEDT 9-13/4th Avenue des Ner-
viens
(European Association of B - 1040 Bruxelles
National Organisations of Tel.: +32 – 2 – 230 5296
Retailers) Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 2569
www.aedt.org
info@aedt.org
EUROSTAT Bâtiment Joseph Bech
5, rue Alphonse Weicker
(Statistical office of the L - 2721 Luxembourg
European Union) europa.eu.int/comm/eurostat
EURATEX 24, rue Montoyer
B - 1000 Bruxelles
(European Apparel and Tel.: +32 – 2 – 285 4892
Textile Organisation) Fax: +32 – 2 – 230 6054
www.euratex.org
info@euratex.org
9.7.2  France
Centre Textile de Conjon- 37-39, rue de Neuilly BP
cture et d’Observation 249
Economique (CTCOE) F - 92113 Clichy
Tel.: +33 – 1 – 4756 3030
Centre for the Observation Fax: +33 – 1 – 4756 3016
of Economic Development ifm@ifm-paris.org
9.7.3  Germany
Bfai – Bundesagentur für Agrippastr. 87-93
Aussenwirtschaft D - 50445 Cologne
Tel.: +49 – 221 – 205 7000
(foreign trade information Fax: +49 – 221 – 205 7212
Germany and EU) www.bfai.de
webkontakt@bfai.de
Bundesamt für Wirtschaft Frankfurter Str. 29 – 31
(BAW) D - 65760 Eschborn
Tel.: +49 – 6196 – 908-0
(German Economic Office) Fax: +49 – 6196 – 908-800
www.bafa.de
Outerwear 2010 l 156
9.7.3  Germany
Statistisches Bundesamt
(German Statistical Office)
9.7.4  Italy
Instituto Nazionale Di
Statistica (ISTAT)
(National Statistical Office)
Market Study Clothing
Sector Databank
Sede Centrale
9.7.5  Spain
Centro de Información
Textil y de la Confeccion
(CITYC)
Económico y Social de
España
(Economic and Social Coun-
cil of Spain)
(Dirección de Relaciones
Institucionales y Publicaci-
ones)
Instituto Nacional de
Estadística
(National Statistical Office)
157 l Outerwear 2010
Gustav Streesemann Ring
11
D - 65189 Wiesbaden
Tel.: +49 – 611 – 752405
Fax: +49 – 611 – 753330
www.destatis.de
info@destatis.de
9.7.6  Switzerland
Via Cesare Balbo, 16
I - 00100 Roma
Tel.: +39 (0) – 6-46 73 1
www.istat.it
info@istat.it
Via dei Piatti, 11
I - 20123 Milano
Tel.: +39 (0) – 2-80 95 56
Fax: +39 (0) – 2-80 56 495
www.databank.it
info@databank.it
C./Rosellon, 216-5 E
E - 08008 Barcelona
Tel.: +34-93-4876 949
Fax: +34-93-4872 362
www.cityc.es
C/Huertas 73
E - 28014 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-429 0018
Fax: +34-91-429 4257
www.ces.es
Paseo de la Castellana 183
E - 28071 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-583 9100
Fax: +34-91-5839158
www.ine.es
Secretaria General de
Commercio Exterior
(Secretary for External
Commercial Affairs)
Sartex
(Swiss Association for Tex-
tile Marking)
Swiss Association For
Standardization (SNV)
Testex – Schweizer Textil-
prüfinstitut
(Swiss Institute for Textile
Testing)
TMC - Textil Und Mode
Center Zürich
Fashion Center
P de la Castellana 14-16
E - 28046 Madrid
Tel.: +34-91-349 6100
Fax: +34-91-431 6128
www.icex.es
Beethovenstr. 20
CH - 8022 Zürich
Tel.: +41 – 44 – 289 79 49
Fax: +41 – 44 – 289 79 38
www.sartex.ch
Bürglistr. 29
CH - 8400 Winterthur
Tel.: +41-52-224 54 54
Fax: +41-52-224 54 74
www.snv.ch
info@snv.ch
Gotthardstr. 61
CH - 8027 Zürich
Tel.: +41 – 44- 206 42 42
Fax: +41 – 44 – 206 42 30
www.testex.ch
contact@testex.ch
Thurgauerstrasse 117
CH - 8152 Glattbrugg
Tel.: +41-43-211 59 20
Fax: +41-43-211 59 29
www.tmc.ch
contact@tmc.ch
9.7.7  United Kingdom

EIU - Economist Intelli- 26 Red Lion Square

gence Unit London WC1R 4HQ
United Kingdom
Tel: + 44 - 20 7576 8181
Fax: + 44 - 20 7576 8476
www.eiu.com
london@eiu.com

Taylor Nelson Sofres plc. 222 Grays Inn Road,

Market Research London WC1X 8HB
www.tnsofres.com
research@tnsofres.com

Textile Outlook Alderley House

International Alderley Road
Wilmslow SK9 1AT
United Kingdom
Tel.: +44 – 1625 – 536136
Fax: +44 – 1625 – 536137
www.textilesintelligence.com
subscriptions@textilesintelli-
gence.com

Outerwear 2010 l 158

Osec
Swiss Import Promotion Programme
Stampfenbachstrasse 85
P.O. Box 2407
CH-8021 Zurich
Phone +41 44 365 51 51
Fax +41 44 365 52 02
sippo@osec.ch

Our hotline: +41 44 365 53 91

Copyright © Osec April 2010. All rights reserved.
www.sippo.ch