Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Revista de Moda y Belleza Elle
Revista de Moda y Belleza Elle
JANUARY/
FEBRUARY 2024
WINNIE
HOLIDAY
SPECIAL
HARLOW
IS BREAKING
The ULTIMATE BARRIERS & SETTING
GIFT GUIDE INTENTIONS
TOP MAKEUP
TRENDS of
THE SEASON
FENDI BOUTIQUES 888 291 0163 FE N D I .CO M
ROMA
DAV I DY U R M A N .C O M
S TA R B U R S T
N 255
D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 3 /J A N U A R Y/ F E B R U A R Y 2 0 2 4
O
84 COVER STORIES
60 BEAUTY Glam makeup looks
PHOTOGRAPHY, CARLOS + ALYSE; DRESS (BINYA AT SSENSE), CORSET (KNWLS AT SSENSE), LEGGINGS (RENAISSANCE RENAISSANCE), SHOES (JIMMY CHOO) AND NECKLACE AND BRACELET (TIFFANY & CO.)
worth celebrating.
BY KATHERINE LALANCETTE
ELLECANADA.COM 15
DISRUPTING DIAMONDS
BEAUTY &
WELLNESS
66 BEAUTY Scientists have
discovered that you can
actually make your skin
smarter. Find out how.
BY THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
68 BEAUTY Colourful
eyeshadow is back and
making makeup fun again.
BY KATHERINE LALANCETTE
72
Here’s how to keep yours in tip-
top shape. BY MELISSA FEJTEK
ELLECANADA.COM 17
PUBLISHER SOPHIE BANFORD
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JOANNA FOX
BEAUTY DIRECTOR KATHERINE LALANCETTE
ART DIRECTOR SAMANTHA PUTH
GRAPHIC DESIGNER LAURENCE FONTAINE
EDITORIAL COORDINATOR CLAUDIA GUY
DIGITAL DIRECTOR CYNTHIA QUELLET
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER MELISSA FEJTEK
CONTRIBUTORS
SADAF AHSAN, MACA ATENCIO, RANDI BERGMAN, GUILLAUME BRIÈRE, ROSAMUND DEAN, VANESSA DL, AMAN DOSANJ, JASMIN DOSANJ, THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU,
JANE FIELDING, MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN, ESTELLE GERVAIS, CAIA HAGEL, SRUTI ISLAM, ROBB JAMIESON, PATRICIA KAROUNOS, WENDY KAUR, CAITLIN KENNY,
PÉNÉLOPE LEMAY, ERICA NGAO, JENNIFER NGUYEN, TRUC NGUYEN, ANNE-SOPHIE PERREAULT, CIARA RICKARD, HEATHER TAYLOR-SINGH, EVE THOMAS, SUMIKO WILSON
TO REACH EDITORIAL:
editors@ko-media.ca
ADVERTISING SALES
SENIOR DIRECTOR, STRATEGY, GROWTH & PARTNERSHIPS EMMANUELLE GIASSON, egiasson@ko-media.ca
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NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR (TORONTO) MARCELLE WALLACE, mwallace@ko-media.ca
NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR (TORONTO) MARNI ARMOUR, marmour@ko-media.ca
SALES DIRECTOR SANDRINE DAHAN, sdahan@ko-media.ca
NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR MARIÈVE LEMAY, mlemay@ko-media.ca
NATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR NATALIA TAVARES, ntavares@ko-media.ca
SALES DIRECTOR, STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS & INSIGHT CHANTAL FERLAND, cferland@ko-media.ca
SUPERVISOR, MULTI-PLATFORM PROJECTS TAMMY HURTEAU
MULTI-PLATFORM PROJECT MANAGERS MARIE-LAURENCE BLAIS, JEANNE BOUCHEL
DIGITAL SALES COORDINATOR LOU ANN PARENT
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR DAPHNÉ CHABOT
KO MÉDIA INC.
PRESIDENT LOUIS MORISSETTE
GENERAL DIRECTOR SOPHIE BANFORD
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ACCOUNTING TECHNICIAN PAULINA RODRIGUEZ
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Registered user: KO Média Inc., 651 Notre-Dame West, Suite 100, Montreal, Quebec H3C 1H9. Contents copyright © 2023 by KO Média Inc. ELLE Canada is published
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BELLEZZA SENZA CONFINI
Varenna, Lake Como - Italy
The Italian region with the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites awaits you with
its wonderful cities of art, its picturesque villages where time seems to stand still and its
incredible natural landscapes that reveal an unspoiled beauty. Lake Como, Lake Garda,
Lake Maggiore and the other lakes will unfold before your eyes with breathtaking scenery,
while the welcoming valleys and the sumptuous profile of the mountains will encircle you in
a warm embrace.
Treat yourself to the unique emotion of a trip to Lombardy!
PHOTOGRAPHY, ANDRÉANNE GAUTHIER; STYLIST, VANESSA GIROUX; MAKEUP ARTIST, SOPHIE PARROT. S. BANFORD IS WEARING A BLOUSE AND PANTS (NONCHALANT LABEL) AND JEWELLERY (DRAE COLLECTION) PUBLISHER’S NOTE
T you, our readers, in the hope of spreading some good in the world. These days,
this pursuit feels more relevant than ever. When you flip open our magazine,
we want you to feel at home and lose yourself in our pages—even if just for a little
while. It’s about offering a brief escape from the daily worries, the distressing news
cycle and incessant notifications. A small moment of comfort: That’s what we’re
trying to provide, issue after issue.
At this time of year, when we are all quietly taking stock, I think about our
mission but also about the fact that our team’s work matters for many reasons. It
can surprise and delight, sure, but it can also convey important messages, uphold
values that are close to our hearts and touch on important social issues. Through
pages full of beauty, dreams and ideas, we also want to promote a society and
culture in which respect, tolerance and vulnerability prevail and learning and
curiosity—about ourselves and others—are at the forefront. Yes, we’re trying to
spread joy, but we’re also striving to promote peace.
To be able to navigate all the terrifying things that are happening on the planet
right now, counter the suffering that reaches us every day through our news feed
and overcome the trials that come our way year after year (because that’s how
life goes, right?), we need to stick together, unite in our causes, help one another
and love one another.
For 2024, this is what I wish for: peace—within us and between us.
To health and happiness!
ELLECANADA.COM 21
JOANNA’S EDIT
Montreal’s favourite
shoe sisters—who have a
brand-new bricks-and-
mortar space on Queen
Street West in Toronto—
have nailed it again with
IT
these stylish, comfortable
day-to-night boots, which
are perfect for the cooler
weather ahead. Keep your seasonal bling subtle with this chic
LORCA HIGH-KNEE coiled ring, which has just a hint of holiday.
BOOT, MAGUIRE ($330,
PHOTOGRAPHY (J. FOX), ANDRÉANNE GAUTHIER; MAKEUP ARTIST, SOPHIE PARROT. J. FOX IS WEARING A BLOUSE BY SILK LAUNDRY, EARRINGS BY MEJURI AND NECKLACES BY DEUX LIONS
MAGUIRESHOES.COM) BOA GEMSTONE COIL RING, MEJURI ($148, MEJURI.COM)
LIST
Here are some
of editor-in-chief
Joanna Fox’s The freshness of Le Labo’s Thé Noir 29
is thanks to its bergamot, fig and bay
top picks for leaves, which are balanced with the
depth of cedarwood, vetiver and musk
holiday gifting. for the most alluring scent.
LE LABO THÉ NOIR 29 ($280 FOR 50 ML,
This season, a cinched LELABOFRAGRANCES.CA)
waist is the best way
to add a little oomph Los Angeles-based designer Anine Bing
to the suiting trend recently posted about how she can’t
that’s everywhere, stop wearing this short-sleeved sweater,
and this belt does and I can see why: It does double duty,
the trick beautifully. making both fall-winter and winter-
24/7 BELT, BEAUFILLE spring transitions seamless.
($385, BEAUFILLE.COM) BRITTANY SWEATER, ANINE BING ($495,
ANINEBING.COM)
22 ELLECANADA.COM
FRONT ROW
December/January/
February
TEXT BY JOANNA FOX, SRUTI ISLAM, ROBB JAMIESON, PATRICIA KAROUNOS, WENDY KAUR, KATHERINE LALANCETTE & TRUC NGUYEN; PHOTOGRAPHY, SØLVE SUNDSBØ FOR IRIS VAN HERPEN (HYPERSONIC SPEED TOP, CAPRIOLE COLLECTION, 2018), IRIS VAN HERPEN PRIVATE COLLECTION
FASHION FORWARD
Since kicking off her Renaissance World Tour last May, Beyoncé has served up a veritable parade of
drool-worthy looks. One undisputed standout was the futuristic gown she opened a show in back
in June, a custom creation by legendary Dutch designer IRIS VAN HERPEN. “Beyoncé inspired me
and my team in every stitch, every bead and every petal along the 700-hour journey of creating her
halo-shaped gown, combining innovation and craftsmanship to magnify her emotions,” van Herpen
wrote on Instagram. It appears Queen Bey isn’t the only “institution” who’s a fan. The Musée des Arts
Décoratifs in Paris will pay homage to van Herpen—who’s famed for fusing technology with haute
couture—as one of the most avant-garde figures of her generation in a retrospective running from
November 29 until April 28, 2024. The tribute will showcase 100 of her most iconic looks and blend
together fashion, contemporary art, design and science. Looks like a trip to Paris is in order! MADPARIS.FR
ELLECANADA.COM 23
PUSSY RIOT, PUTIN PISSED HIS PANTS (2012)
PUSSY POWER
The famous balaclava-clad
feminist-punk-art collective
Pussy Riot are bringing their Big Primping
unique form of artistic protest ETIKET has long been the beauty destination of choice for
PHOTOGRAPHY, DENIS SINYAKOV (PUTIN PISSED HIS PANTS, 2012), © PUSSY RIOT & COURTESY OF ETIKET, THE POLYESTER PODCAST & ELISABETTA CLAUDIO (M. ERICKSON)
to the Montreal Museum of Montrealers in the know. This January, it’ll be bringing its
best-in-class spa treatments and top-tier product selection
Contemporary Art with VELVET to even more Canadians when it opens its very first outpost.
TERRORISM: PUSSY RIOT’S RUSSIA, a Located in the Well development, in downtown Toronto, the
timely exhibition that surveys soothing travertine-clad space will sprawl across a whopping
their novel form of political 600 square metres—and every last bit of it will be dedicated
protest in Russia. Pussy Riot to bringing consumers the best of the best in beauty. There will
be six treatment rooms, including ones by Dr. Barbara Sturm
formed in Moscow in 2011 in (the very first in Canada) and Tata Harper (the second in the
a blaze of punk-rock spirit, country, the first being in Etiket’s original Montreal location), and
using joy and humour as their services from HydraFacial, SkinCeuticals, Pai and more. On the
weapon against oppression in product front, expect to find a covetable assortment of natural
a delicate dance with Russian brands, cool niche labels, luxury staples and made-in-Canada
favourites. A beauty lover’s dream! ETIKET.CA
authorities. Many of these public
performances have become iconic,
and there have been some real
consequences to their actions,
such as a famous show trial in
2012 that led to member Maria
Alyokhina’s imprisonment. Get
politically inspired by more
than 10 years of videos and
photographs of riotous DIY
action for a better world until
March 10, 2024. MACM.ORG
FRONT ROW
LISTEN
UP
The spawn
of a self-
published and High Altitude
queer-centred Milan-based acclaimed Canadian author
Meredith Erickson—known for co-writing the
magazine Joe Beef cookbooks as well as for her personal
based in tome, Alpine Cooking —has now ventured into
London, the world of spirits. DOLADIRA, an aperitivo
England, THE inspired by a rhubarb elixir in Alpine Cooking , is
bottled in Burgundy and sold in select countries
POLYESTER PODCAST explores intersectional worldwide. “It is very refreshing, has almost
feminism within arts and culture from no sugar and a little salinity and is fresh, fresh,
both an online and offline perspective. fresh,” says Erickson. “I love it with soda. I love it
Hosted by the magazine’s editor-in-chief, in a Negroni. I love it on the rocks with nothing
else. It’s the drink I always wanted but could
Ione Gamble, the podcast’s motto is “Have never find.” We spoke with Erickson about this
faith in your own bad taste!” With a massive undertaking and when Canadians will
focus on the intellectual value in young get a taste.
girls, Polyester puts forward femme trends How long did it take you to develop Doladira?
that go viral—but are often dismissed “About three years, from ideation to being on
for their “frivolity”—and refreshingly the shelf—and that’s relatively fast for the spirit
world. Richard Betts and Joe Marchese—my
upends them through a deeply analytic two partners—and I collaborated on close
lens (looking at sad-girl fall memes in to 40 iterations of the recipe. We launched in
relation to the perception of female mental eight U.S. states in September and the U.K. in
health, for example). Subscribe and tune October, [and we’re launching in] France, Italy
ELLECANADA.COM 25
MANE ATTRACTION
Great news: Über-popular U.S. hair-care range VEGAMOUR will
finally be available north of the border this winter. The holistic
brand is probably best known for its GRO Hair Serum, a vegan
elixir that supports a balanced follicular ecosystem to give you
thicker, fuller-looking hair. It’s so popular, one bottle sells every
15 seconds! But the entire range is worthy of accolades thanks
to sustainably sourced proprietary phytoactive ingredients
that treat not just the symptoms but also the underlying causes
of common hair concerns. Fun fact: Nicole Kidman was so
taken with the products, she decided to join the brand as a
Hair Wellness Advocate and investor. In addition to loving the
GRO Hair Serum, the actor is partial to the HYDR-8 Leave-In
Conditioner, which she uses to nourish her lengths. “This duo
truly works wonders for my hair,” she says. Watch for Vegamour
in January at Sephora, in-store and online. VEGAMOUR.COM
AMERICAN DREAMS
Ready to lean into prep this winter?
RALPH LAUREN recently opened its first
Canadian boutique in the Yorkdale Shopping
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF RALPH LAUREN & YE RIN MOK (B. AND D. PEART)
Centre in Toronto. The 510-square-metre
store carries a selection of women’s Collection
and Polo Ralph Lauren pieces and some
men’s Purple Label styles, and it offers
alteration and repair services as well as
by-appointment personal styling and made-
to-measure tailoring. The iconic American
A-LIST BOOK CLUB fashion brand also launched a Canadian
Celeb-penned books to read this winter. e-commerce site this past fall, so you can stock
THE BITTLEMORES by Jann Arden up on polo shirts and Fair Isle sweaters at
Canadian multi-hyphenate Jann Arden has brought your leisure.RALPHLAUREN.CA
26 ELLECANADA.COM
FRONT ROW
R7997-24
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF ARITZIA, COS & BANANA REPUBLIC
www.remonte.com
ELLECANADA.COM 27
FRONT ROW
MOVIE NIGHT
It’s that time of year again when
Hollywood brings out the big names
in order to lure us to the cinema (or
streaming services) over the festive period.
MAY DECEMBER (November 17) is
director Todd Haynes’ 10th feature film.
Natalie Portman and Julianne Moore
star in the romantic drama, which plays
with the audience’s expectations of the
genre and features Haynes’ expert use
of campy humour. If you couldn’t nab
tickets to the live concert, RENAISSANCE:
A FILM BY BEYONCÉ (December 1) will
transport you to centre stage (and
PHOTOGRAPHY, FRANÇOIS DUHAMEL/NETFLIX (MAY DECEMBER), KEVIN MAZUR/WIREIMAGE FOR PARKWOOD (RENAISSANCE: A FILM BY BEYONCÉ ) & SEARCHLIGHT PICTURES (ALL OF US STRANGERS)
behind the scenes) to fully experience the
spectacle of Queen Bey in all her fashion
glory—at a fraction of the cost. ALL
OF US STRANGERS (December 22) stars
Andrew Scott (a.k.a. “the hot priest”
from Fleabag) as a man who falls in
love with his neighbour, played by Paul
Mescal. (Sorry, we need a moment to let
this pairing wash over us.... Okay, we’re
good.) The film is directed by British
filmmaker Andrew Haigh, who has not
yet made a bad movie.
Good Apple
NINA LE PARFUM might be the most daring addition yet to the storied
Nina by Nina Ricci range. (You know—those iconic apple-shaped
flacons.) It shouldn’t come as a surprise, considering it’s the
house’s first fragrance launched under creative director and
celebrated disrupter Harris Reed’s tenure. The British-American
designer has become famous for a romantic, theatrical
aesthetic sprinkled with a hint of subversion. (That tulle hoop
skirt Harry Styles wore in Vogue? A Harris Reed original.) Now,
he’s brought that same penchant for drama to Nina Le Parfum,
a captivating blend of apple, lemon, orange blossom, gardenia
and tuberose. It’s sensual, powerful and a wee bit mischievous.
It’s also mindful of the planet, using citrus fruits discarded by
the food industry and housed in a bottle made of 20 percent
recycled glass and a box crafted from paper certified by the Forest
Stewardship Council. NINA RICCI NINA LE PARFUM EAU DE PARFUM ($112 FOR 50 ML, THEBAY.COM)
28 ELLECANADA.COM
style
NENSI DOJAKA
GAUCHERE
GUCCI
OVEREXPOSURE
Welcome to the visibility era, where lace, mesh and
sheer fabrics leave almost nothing to the imagination.
By CAIA HAGEL
IN MORE MODEST HOLIDAYS PAST, we might have been pulling out the tight, short, slitted,
puffed and even turtle-necked black cocktail dresses to be party-ready with looks that
show enough leg or arm to feel sexy yet provide enough cover to feel cozy. This year,
though, we have an unexpected surprise: Sheer, lace and mesh dresses are making
a comeback. It’s an invitation to bring our best body magic to the season’s parties.
What began as the “pantless” trend, in which oversized boyfriend shirts, bomber
jackets and cropped trenches with heels made the full outfit (a look spearheaded by
Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber), has morphed into the “no pants” trend, where
shorts as small as panties are the definition of hyper-visibility dressing. Vanessa
Hudgens, Bella Hadid and Olivia Rodrigo have all been spotted wearing their
PHOTOGRAPHY, LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren boxer shorts as out-of-the-bedroom street style. Dua
Lipa captioned an Instagram pic of herself sporting suede Miu Miu micro-shorts
“sun bum,” presumably because they were so short they exposed half of her nicely
tanned butt cheeks. Emma Corrin made their version seem unselfconscious and
sophisticated when they bombed the Venice Film Festival in an earth-green Miu
Miu cardigan and matching minishorts. And when Saffron Vadher arrived at the
Vogue World party in gold-sequined silk-and-wool Miu Miu panties, she made all
the gorgeous dresses seem too dressy.
ELLECANADA.COM 29
SAINT LAURENT
STYLE
Pantlessness emphasizes the lower body while veiling the each other. We talk to, share with, like and befriend strangers
upper body. But why stop there? Now that this trend has been every day. We are increasingly aware that we are always being
sanctified by everyone everywhere, it’s pivoting to something watched. Whether via surveillance cams in public places or the
even more daring: panties under lace, mesh and sheer dresses cameras in our desktops, laptops and phones, we know that we
that leave almost nothing to the imagination. Nobody’s com- are monitored, datafied and monetized. Yes, the digital world
plaining, but why are we so keen to expose ourselves? has made us exhibitionists, and in the digital space, we all belong
Lace now is not like the lace of the past, when it was worn to everyone. So, is exposure dressing not an act of surrender
mostly as an undergarment. Today’s boudoir pieces are in a to—even an enthusiastic embracing of—our collective public
playful mood, flirting as outerwear and adding an unexpected status and making it “surveillance chic”?
casual tone to the boldness of going out nearly naked. Paired Hyper-visibility was introduced softly at the fall/winter
with running shoes, chunky boots, slippers and cardigans, lace 2023/2024 shows. Especially gorgeous were Mowalola’s
is saying “exposure is so stylish and chill.” skin-flashing leather dresses and the tummy-baring gowns
Skin reveals have always been an ally of female emancipation. and fur-collar tops giving underboob at Ludovic de Saint
Slogans like “free the nipple” have been recycled since they were Sernin for Ann Demeulemeester. Exposure was all over
first uttered in the early 1960s during the sexual revolution. In the spring/summer 2024 runways too. At Coach, sheer
1964, Rudi Gernreich launched the first monokini, a garment yellow and black lace barely covered black bikinis. Gabriela
that fully unleashed the breasts. Yves Saint Laurent followed it Hearst’s white mermaid-esque see-through knit gowns were
in 1966 with the first sheer look, which he took further in 1968 layered over white bikinis and paired with sandals. Dion
with his see-through dress, a soft, completely transparent chiffon Lee’s geometric lace looks had sporty sex appeal. Diesel’s
gown belted with a cinch made of ostrich feathers. Photos of distressed techno-rave minidresses had holes in them, as
Saint Laurent’s muse, Danielle Luquet de Saint-Germain, if someone or something had taken bites of the fabric. For
wearing this dress circled the world and caused a scandal that his debut at Tom Ford, Peter Hawkings added risqué glam
was as gossiped about as the one caused by the masculinity of to nipple-exposing sheer dresses with only mini thongs for
the Le Smoking tuxedo two seasons earlier. This time, it was bottoms. Dolce & Gabbana’s fall/winter 2023/2024 and
the extreme femininity of the see-through dress that was the spring/summer 2024 shows were all about lingerie looks as
political weapon for equal rights. daywear. Dior added tulle and mesh to its black see-through
Fast-forward to Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2024 show: pieces. Victoria Beckham’s sheer white gowns were angelic,
Designer Anthony Vaccarello raided the archives to update and Chanel’s black one was ruffle-topped. Loewe did a
the Saharienne safari jacket (which was first introduced on the transparent haute beige collar dress. Mugler’s was translu-
runway in 1967), transforming it into explorer jumpsuits that cent cyborgian. Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection at Gucci
were, he said in a press release, inspired by “Amelia Earhart, included silk-lace minidresses, and even Prada—the eternally
Adrienne Bolland and other pioneering women who infiltrated virginal house—had them in its presentation.
PHOTOGRAPHY, LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
domains once considered exclusively male, such as aviation Hyper-visibility is joyful, confident and empowered. It
and car racing.” Among the tightly belted khakis, leather throws suspicion on covering up, privatization, information
headdresses and goggles, the signature looks of this feminist hoarding and Instagram’s institutionalized nipple ban. It
collection were the completely translucent tight gauze tops might also poetically imply that as extremely online humans,
worn braless. sharing and baring are our most unifying activities. While
We have officially entered the hyper-visibility era. We post sporting this sexy trend through the holiday-season parties,
our intimate moments and intimate feelings online. We reveal, remember what Yves Saint Laurent always said: “Nothing is
and we are revealed to; we consume and are consumed by more beautiful than a naked body.”
ELLECANADA.COM 31
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From cascading cuts to
windproof wraps, this
statement garment is sure ZARA ($99, ZARA.COM)
to turn heads.
STEMARGSCOT
The Toronto-based outerwear
brand is bringing colour—and
warmth—to our Canadian winters.
By ERICA NGAO
PHOTOGRAPHY, ANGELA LIN AND STYLIST, MEI YONEKURA (CAMPAIGN); PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF STEMARGSCOT (S. JARDINE)
in early 2023 with a line of environmentally conscious coats that encourage people to play and give themselves permission to
pack plenty of personality—and warmth. With a gender-in- wear the colours they love—especially in those dark times when
clusive fit and nods to heritage styles, the coats are meant to be we need positivity and any kind of little dopamine hit we can get.
heirlooms for generations to come. Each component—from We try to maintain a joyful aesthetic while still being luxury.”
the raw-edge seams to the hand-carved maple toggles—is
NATURAL RESOURCES
made without plastic or metal and is thoughtfully crafted.
“When you think about fashion and materials, you rarely think
To help combat the winter blues, the coats are dyed in an
about agriculture. Our clothes used to be grown. Fabrics like linen
array of vivid rainbow hues, including a poppy chartreuse, a
and hemp are made of sunshine and water. Our clothes were bio-
royal purple and a bright fuchsia. And the brand has already
degradable, so when we were finished with them, those nutrients
received a nod from the industry: It was nominated for The
could be returned to the earth. That was truly and simply circular. I
Award for Emerging Talent, Fashion at this year’s Canadian
would love to see that revisited by bringing back materials that are
Arts & Fashion Awards.
far from fossil-fuel-derived fabrics like polyester and nylon and that
But the real star is the wool, which is custom-woven at a
are also circular in their disposal process.”
family-owned British mill that’s been in operation since the
1800s. The thick, dense shell is nat- WONDER WOOL
urally wind- and water-resistant, “Nowadays, when a lot of people think about a winter coat, they
and a removable wool-filled liner forget that wool kept us warm and dry for centuries before syn-
ensures ultimate insulation, even thetics were invented—and it can continue to keep us warm.
in -20˚C weather. In the future, It’s something that’s been forgotten because we only envision a
Jardine hopes to source wool closer winter coat in a certain way now. Customers are inundated with
to home; she’s a member of the synthetic coats—they have closets full of them. We want to give
Canadian Wool Council’s policy them the option of something different. Our focus on craftsman-
SASHA JARDINE
committee, which is working to ship lets the wearer know that their coat is unique—there aren’t
revive the industry here. thousands of them elsewhere in the world.”
34 ELLECANADA.COM
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ELLECANADA.COM 35
FASHION FICTIONCanadian author CLAUDIA DEY shares her thoughts on style,
beauty and the faces of femininity.
By CAIA HAGEL
IF THE UNCONSCIOUS FEELINGS of every moment are expressed On the heels of a runway season that unveiled a new layer
through trending styles and the clothes we wear, fashion has a of femininity via lace-draped girls in smart Miu Miu reading
special kind of intuitiveness that literature has forever understood. glasses, Daughter, the latest novel from Claudia Dey—playwright,
Clothing has always been a source of symbolism in books, and author and co-founder of Toronto-based fashion label Horses
books have endlessly inspired clothing designers. Sometimes this Atelier—landed in our hands.
relationship is obvious, like when Peter Do collaborated with The tale is told by bohemian ingenue Mona, and it explores
Ocean Vong, author of On Earth We Are Briefly Gorgeous, for his an ancient and familiar predicament for women: how to exist
recent debut at Helmut Lang and the poetry soundtrack made alongside the gargantuan male ego and find personal power
people cry. Or when Virgil Abloh used James Baldwin’s essay beyond it. Mona’s father is a famous novelist whose narcissism
“Stranger in the Village” as the blueprint for his sublime Louis destroys aspects of all the women in his life and pits them against
Vuitton men’s fall/winter 2020/2021 show. Or when Juergen one another. When Mona transforms into a mesmerizing con-
Teller photographed Joan Didion for the Celine spring/summer temporary heroine while in the fire of her heartbreaks, it feels like
PHOTOGRAPHY, DOVE DEY-KERR
2015 campaign and her face became as iconic as her prose. But the medicine we need right now. Daughter uses fashion metaphors
who can forget Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, whose titular protagonist to express its characters’ psychological states and captures the
is so compelling they’ve spawned a million fashion dreams? Or mood of a new-found underworld feminine feeling shining
Mrs. Dalloway, another Woolf character, whose green dress—a from beneath our sheer dresses. We sat down with Dey to chat
gown so close to being sentient that it is a character in itself—still about fashion, literature, the faces of femininity and her critically
haunts our literary dreams? acclaimed new novel, which is already a national bestseller.
36 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
READING DAUGHTER, I WAS STRUCK BY HOW WELL YOU SEE-THROUGH-DRESS STYLE. ONE IS IN A TUX, AND ONE IS
CAPTURE THE CURRENT FEMININE MOOD. CAN YOU TELL ME IN LACE, MESH, GAUZE AND TULLE. ONE COVERS CURVES,
ABOUT THIS? “I write for contact and for closeness—closeness to AND THE OTHER EXPOSES THEM. ONE MIMICS MASCULIN-
life, closeness to my reader and closeness to myself. I [created] ITY, WHILE THE OTHER EXAGGERATES AND COMPLEXIFIES
Mona to achieve this closeness. She is the centre of Daughter; she FEMININITY. MONA HAS CHOSEN OPTION TWO. “I love this
is the one who possesses this new femininity, this transparency. She framework and YSL, so I wish I could have worn the original ver-
does not seek to be made legible through the lens of another; she sions of both. Yes, Mona exposes her spine in a pivotal scene—and
has agency, and she has come into her power. She is inscrutable in it is, in fact, her stepmother who describes the backless dress to
some ways, and she has nerve and is self-possessed. These qual- the reader. [With] a kind of voyeurism, the novel transits between
ities are expressed in the fashion of this moment—gauze is clinical points of view, so we get the detail that the top band of Mona’s
yet sultry [and allows for] a kind of exposure that is for self-construc- underwear is exposed, and it is lace. I move behind the other char-
tion. Fashion, like all art—and like Mona’s arc in Daughter—is the acters’ eyes because we can never quite escape that question of
construction of personhood. The question is: Why would I hide?” ‘How do those in my orbit see me? How do I appear to them?’”
I WONDER HOW CONSCIOUS WE ARE THAT WHEN WE IT SEEMS THAT CHERRY, THE WICKED STEPMOTHER OF THE
DRESS OURSELVES EACH DAY, WE ARE CONSTRUCTING STORY, IS EVIL IN PART BECAUSE SHE CAN’T FATHOM THE
OUR PERSONHOOD. WHAT WOULD MONA SAY? “I love this SEE-THROUGH-DRESS FORM OF FEMININITY. SHE ENVIES IT
question. I think we understand that fashion is a form of auto- AND DEMONIZES IT AT THE SAME TIME—WHICH COULD BE
biography—an expression of mood, of state, of obsessions and of SEEN AS A SOCIAL COMMENTARY ON CULTURE AT LARGE
play. Only a few of Mona’s pieces are described: a dress with a AND THE LE SMOKING VEIN OF FEMINISM GENERALLY. THIS
pocket for a cellphone [that she wears] as she anxiously awaits LENS HAS BEEN SO CRUEL TO SOFTNESS, VULNERABILITY
her narcissistic god of a father’s phone calls, a surplus jacket AND SEXINESS, YET MONA SUBVERTS IT, AND SO DOES
that gives her shelter and anonymity during a grief spiral and a HER MOTHER. “You are seeing it all. Mona’s mother, Natasha,
backless dress that she wears when she has a meeting with her is described as Marilyn Monroe if Marilyn Monroe had driven
spiteful stepmother. She wears the dress as a totem of strength; a station wagon and worked at a radio station. The qualities
it’s a tactical and sly move, signalling that she is very much intact.” you describe in Mona and Natasha—the softness, the eros, the
vulnerability and the furious, precise subversion—are also the
BECAUSE IT EXPOSES HER SPINE? “Yes, exactly.” sources of their artistic power, a force Cherry is threatened by
and wants to quash. She does not make art but acquires it. She
MONA ALSO WEARS HEAVY FUR IN ONE OF THE LAST is an heiress. Cherry’s dress is described as plain and pressed
POWERFUL SCENES IN THE NOVEL. “Yes! During her emotional like a sheet of paper; it’s a very specific and polished expression
winter, a period of grieving, she wears all her partner’s clothes— of wealth. She speaks about style as something that should be
his wool pants, his button-down and his overcoat. He is lanky, invisible—[she believes that] when style is visible, it is desperate.
shaped like a spire, and she knows that she looks ‘like a clown.’ She is not a villain, but she is oppositional in this orbit of women.
But that’s what fashion can do—it can take you toward and She, too, was very seductive to write.”
away from yourself, and Mona needs distance from her wounds.
Fashion can shift your identity and make you WE LEAVE THIS GORGEOUS NOVEL WORLD
obliterate and lose sight of yourself; it can be FEELING EMPATHY FOR EACH AND EVERY
something to hide behind.” CHARACTER. WE SEE WHERE WOMEN ARE
VIS-À-VIS MEN; IT ISN’T RIGHT OR WRONG,
THIS IS SUCH A BEAUTIFUL IDEA. IN THAT BUT IT DOES GIVE US PERMISSION TO BE
SENSE, FASHION ALSO DECONSTRUCTS LESS AFRAID OF HYPERFEMININITY. MAYBE
PERSONHOOD AT WILL. “Exactly. What we do IT’S TIME TO EXPLORE OTHER TACTICS,
when we dress is what we do when we make WHICH IS SOMETHING WE CAN LEARN A
art—we disassemble and reassemble our- LOT ABOUT FROM MONA. “What is to come
selves, and we try on different faces.” for women? Where will we go next? I keep
thinking about the patriarchal [canon] ver-
MONA MADE ME THINK A LOT ABOUT THE sus the matriarchal canon. We were raised
METHODS WE USE AS GIRLS AND WOMEN [to see] male writers as mentally central, as
TO ACHIEVE POWER—THE YSL LE SMOKING important and as masters . I love to see how
STYLE OF LEANING IN VERSUS THE YSL we, daughters, are redescribing life.”
ELLECANADA.COM 37
STYLE
A STYLISH
LEGACYHow hip hop has transformed and dominated
the fashion industry.
By SADAF AHSAN Illustration GUILLAUME BRIÈRE
38 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
ELLECANADA.COM 39
STYLE
So how have hip-hop artists managed to have such an impact Eventually, journalists caught on to what hip hop was pulling
on what we wear, even today? Well, as the genre grew more off in fashion and gave it an even brighter spotlight. Hip-hop-
popular, some unlikely allies in the fashion industry began to focused magazines like Vibe and The Source were immensely
take notice and, of course, saw dollar signs ahead. It helped, careful about who made the cover, what the cover stars wore
too, that when artists wore something they loved, they shouted and what ads were included. Take, for instance, Timberland
it out. Think Mary J. Blige’s “What’s the 411?”, on which boots, which, notes Campbell, rappers and hip-hop artists
Grand Puba raps: “Well, I be Puba on this here, the n— from started wearing to add to their street cred. These magazines
last year. Girbauds hangin’ baggy, Tommy Hilfiger top gear.” jumped on the trend, filling their pages with Timberland and
Hilfiger’s bright and oversized aesthetic fit well with the fellow blue-collar brands like Carhartt and The North Face.
genre’s vibe, and the shout-out led to new customers. The The majority of the magazines’ ads also featured Black models.
designer began working with hip hop’s best: Diddy, TLC, Model Tyson Beckford was even discovered in the pages of The
Destiny’s Child, Wu-Tang. And, of course, there was Aaliyah Source and, incidentally, would go on to become the first Black
in an unforgettable 1997 campaign that saw the singer sporting face of Ralph Lauren.
low-rise jeans and branded boxers, and it feels just as fresh today And, finally, there are people like Elena Romero, a New
as it did back then. Suddenly, Hilfiger was hot. York-based journalist and the assistant chair of marketing com-
Ironically, another brand that oozed preppy and privileged— munications at the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she
Polo Ralph Lauren—was key too. In the 1980s, a Brooklyn- recently co-curated Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous, an exhibit featuring
based gang known as the Lo-Lifes had made Polo their main some of the most iconic fashion items from the past 50 years of hip
objective when they were doing their shoplifting rounds. So hop. Romero dug through archives, storage units, showrooms
although many of them were from one of the poorest neigh- and people’s homes to source clothes, jewellery, footwear and
bourhoods in Brooklyn, they were sporting Polo everywhere accessories. The pieces she found included everything from
they went, and soon fellow Brooklynites were doing the same. Chance the Rapper’s Polo sweater to a Megan Thee Stallion
Cut to 2004 and Kanye West was wearing a teddy-bear-embla- gown and even Cardi B’s nails.
zoned Polo sweater—which became a signature for him—on “Hip hop birthed so many things,” says Romero. “It wasn’t
the cover of his debut album, The College Dropout. just music and fashion but also magazines and television and
As Mark Campbell, assistant professor of music and culture film programming, because so many artists, when they started,
at the University of Toronto, explains: “Hip hop is an art form were not getting access to mainstream or luxury brands and
that didn’t come from anywhere you could learn it. It came outlets. So they made their own. That created jobs. And in
from playing records and turntables in the parks and streets. fashion, it led to a new face and body on the runway—we’re
Though, of course, there was no value accorded to hip hop when talking different shades, body types and hairstyles.”
it came up. So the idea was you had to earn enough money to Over the years, hip hop’s impact has only grown. We
be able to wear Polo or Versace or whatever. And it wasn’t just went from Diddy becoming the first Black designer to win
about wearing it; it was about other people knowing you were the Menswear Designer of the Year Award from the Council
wearing it so they’d know you could afford it.... The whole idea of Fashion Designers of America for his label Sean John in
was for people to look at you and not see your impoverishment. 2004 (beating out Ralph Lauren in a full-circle moment) to
It had to be loud, it had to be in your face; it was a big middle Kanye West—divisive as he may be—launching his first Yeezy
finger that said, ‘I’m in the projects, I’m under-employed, I’m collection at New York Fashion Week in 2015.
under-housed, but I can rock what you can rock, and I can Today, there’s no mistaking that the titans of hip hop are
probably rock it better.’” In came a hefty dose of loud luxury. also titans of fashion. Since launching her Fenty beauty and
The more logos—and the bigger they were—the better. Even fashion empire, Rihanna has become a certified billionaire.
leaving the tag on was considered chic (for a time). So strong Earlier this year, Pharrell stepped into the massive shoes of
was logomania in the ’80s that designer Dapper Dan made Virgil Abloh when he became the new creative director of Louis
a massive name for himself in the hip-hop world and beyond Vuitton. Krishnamurthy says it’s all about authenticity. “The
just by stamping his own work, DIY-style, with high-end labels. most successful ones really come from a place that’s organic,”
In fact, so much of what has always gone into the style she says. “[For] the celebs who truly love fashion, it isn’t just
of hip-hop artists we know and love is branding, and that’s wearing clothes; it’s a way of life, and you can tell from the way
a team effort. It was pioneering stylist and designer Misa they dress, how they talk about fashion, how excited they get
Hylton who was behind Lil’ Kim’s VMAs look, and it was about it and the amount of commitment [they have].... To have
David LaChapelle who shot her in the nude (and covered her a true stake in the game, there has to be that love.”
in the Louis Vuitton logo from head to toe) for the cover of Hip hop has always been loud and proud. While that used
Interview, adding to her brand of sex and luxury. Then there was to be everything fashion wasn’t—or, at least, claimed not to
Kimora Lee Simmons, who handed Lil’ Kim her new Baby be—things have changed. Hip hop has taught us that indi-
Phat bedazzled T-shirts to wear and flaunt, which elevated vidual style matters and has power—and anyone can have it
both the tees and Simmons to icon status. and wield it.
40 ELLECANADA.COM
SPONSORED CONTENT X ON
ON YOUR TOES
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Read on as we name our top pieces from the collections—work-
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1. CHALLENGER JACKET
Even on your wintriest runs, this minimalist puffer’s heat-locking
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2. WEATHER VEST
Your running routine doesn’t stop for less-than-ideal conditions.
This water-repellent vest lets you keep going despite the forecast. 7. HOODIE
The benefits are endless: Expect a featherweight feel and max A good hoodie perfectly balances both comfort and function,
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and drawstring lace guard (genius!) allow you to stay focused on
3. MOVEMENT BRA your practice.
Finally, a sports bra you’ll actually want to wear all day. Designed
with buttery-soft moisture-wicking material that moves with you, 8. SWEAT PANTS
the lightly padded Movement Bra is made for feeling good during Light, stretchy and breathable are the name of the game for
all your low-impact workouts. these sleek sweatpants. With a stylish slim fit and a bevy of con-
PHOTOGRAPHY, NELSON HUANG; STYLIST, SANTANAE LUZIGE; HAIRSTYLIST AND MAKEUP ARTIST, VERONICA CHU
cealed pockets, they’re the kind of pair you’ll sport to the gym
4. PERFORMANCE WINTER TIGHTS and brunch alike.
Based on the brand’s bestselling performance tights, this newly
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including a pocket roomy enough for the biggest phone—mean
you can go the distance distraction-free.
5. CLOUDSTRATUS 3
Everyday runners, this one’s for you! The bestselling Cloudstratus
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you’re out for an easy run or reaching a new PB.
6. CLOUDMONSTER
Two words that describe your running routine? Dedicated 6.
ELLECANADA.COM 41
STYLE
Timeless Beauty
JENNIFER LAWRENCE embraces the power of restraint.
By KATHERINE LALANCETTE
T
HE WORLD FELL IN LOVE with her as a zany 22-year-old really meaningful to me, obviously. That’s when I started to
who tripped on her dress on her way to scoop up her notice watches, which led me to Longines.”
Oscar. More than a decade later, Jennifer Lawrence
is still as disarmingly charming as ever, but look closer and AS AN AMBASSADOR OF ELEGANCE FOR THE BRAND, WHEN
you’ll notice something a bit different about the actor: a certain DO YOU FEEL MOST ELEGANT? “What I like about the Mini
poise, a palpable sense of peace. DolceVita is it’s the perfect staple for going from daytime casual
In 2019, the star put her movie career on hold to focus on her to black tie and formal. I always think it’s elegant to change
life off-screen. She wed art gallerist Cooke Maroney, and the really quickly and not take too long. You know in Eyes Wide
couple welcomed their first child, a son named Cy, in February Shut, when Nicole Kidman has her hair up and glasses on
2022. “I just think everybody had gotten sick of me. I’d gotten and then she just takes her hair down and her glasses off? It’s
sick of me,” she told Vanity Fair of her sabbatical from stardom. that effortless beauty where you don’t need to do too much.”
“It had just gotten to a point where I couldn’t do anything
right. If I walked a red carpet, it was, ‘Why didn’t she run?’... HOW DOES A WATCH FIT YOUR LIFESTYLE? “For me, it’s more of
I think that I was people-pleasing for the majority of my life.” a fashion accessory. I just think that it’s more expressive than
She emerged from the hiatus with a revived spark and a a normal piece of jewellery. It says something more profound
much-raved-about new look. She’s since been hailed as a fixture about you; it’s more professional. There’s something more
in fashion’s stealth-wealth movement, right up there with Sofia serious about it that I like. I don’t think there’s any outfit you
Richie, the cast of Succession and Gwyneth’s courtroom couture. can put on that this watch isn’t going to elevate.”
Think immaculate tailoring, plush textures and tasteful tones
of black, white, grey and camel. The look is an apt reflection of HOW DO YOU MANAGE YOUR TIME? “I try to be organized
the 33-year-old’s relaxed confidence these days. “I normally lean because being on time is important to me. My job involves so
toward a more understated elegance and quiet luxury,” she admits. many people—hundreds of people—that to be late would be very
On this fall day, she sits on a couch in a New York City hotel disrespectful. And, of course, once you have a family, there are
suite, embodying the sartorial ethos to a T in a black A-line these added factors of just trying to keep your time organized so
midiskirt, a fitted short-sleeved sweater and nude patent pumps. you can be more in control of your day and your week and so you
A black Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Bone Cuff wraps one wrist, can look back and [be glad about] the way you spent your time.”
a Longines Mini DolceVita adorns the other.
The launch of the latter is the reason for our meeting: WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE TIME OF DAY? “My favourite time
Lawrence was recently appointed “Ambassador of Elegance” of day now is morning because that’s when my husband and
for the storied watchmaker. (You may have seen paparazzi shots son and I can be together and have our coffee. I mean, [my
of her filming a commercial for the brand back in June—you husband] and I have coffee [laughs] and just watch [our son]
know, those photos of her wrangling a bunch of dogs?—when and laugh before the day gets started.”
the internet went wild for her outfit: a navy sweater casually
knotted over a long trench coat, trousers, ballet flats and a dainty HOW DO YOU MAKE TIME FOR YOURSELF? “The time that feeds
silver timepiece.) Here, the actor opens up about her my soul is watching Housewives. Also, ever since I
approach to style, prioritizing family time and the had a child, people always say the same thing: ‘It
restorative benefits of a good Housewives episode. goes by so fast.’ I hate hearing that because I don’t
want it to go by fast, but it actually makes me really
WHAT IS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH WATCHES? DO appreciate every moment. Even if I’m tired, I try to
YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST ONE YOU EVER WORE? take it in and enjoy it and know that this moment
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF LONGINES
“The first watch I ever wore was a digital watch is going to pass and I’m never going to get it back.”
that had kind of a [Magic] 8-Ball question-answer
situation. You could say ‘Does so-and-so have a crush IF YOU WERE ABLE TO STOP TIME FOR ONE MOMENT,
on me?’ [And it’d be] like, ‘No way!’ Then I started WHAT MOMENT WOULD IT BE? “I’m actually lucky—I
caring about watches about four or five years ago. have a few moments that I would want to elon-
STAINLESS-STEEL AND
My husband and I were engaged, and my brother- DIAMOND MINI DOLCEVITA, gate. Maybe walking down the aisle and seeing
LONGINES ($4,800,
in-law gifted me a watch from his father. It was just LONGINES.CA) my husband.”
ELLECANADA.COM 43
BRILLIANT CLOTHING
IN NOVA SCOTIA
STYLE
PRE-LOVED
Second-hand stores across
Canada are serving up first-rate ALBERTA
shopping, from vintage fashion VESPUCCI
to sustainable chic luxury. Back in 1986, long before online shopping was a thing, Dianne
Rawlinson opened a second-hand shop in a strip mall near
By EVE THOMAS her house, and it’s now Calgary’s largest bricks-and-mortar
luxury-consignment store. Head there for big names and
heirloom-worthy accessories, like Chanel sunglasses and Louis
Vuitton “pochettes.”
WHAT WE LOVE ♥ Sustainable shopping is a family affair!
Rawlinson’s daughter Britt opened her own store, VSP
BRITISH COLUMBIA Consignment, in Toronto in 2013.
MINE & YOURS
This luxury consignment chain’s Vancouver boutiques (as well
as one that opened in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood last SASKATCHEWAN
summer) are so sleekly designed, you’d think you were shopping LOOM & MAGPIE
for new (with deep discounts). Around 250 items are added This Regina-based luxury-consignment shop has been doing
every week—in-store and online—and they’re included in a double duty since 2017. Founded on “the belief that fashion and
shoppable digital lookbook called The Report. Spy everything sustainability can coexist,” it sells designer clothes and acces-
from trendy Acne sweaters and Ganni dresses to ultra-luxe sories and helps keep them looking new longer by servicing and
Delvaux leather purses and Philip Treacy wool hats. repairing luxury timepieces, fine jewellery and leather goods.
WHAT WE LOVE ♥ The brand’s Influencer Program is open WHAT WE LOVE ♥ This boutique does not do dupes! The
to anyone who loves second-hand clothing (not just fashion team’s exhaustive analysis of second-hand goods includes
bloggers and big names), and members can earn store credit examination with a loupe, an X-ray fluorescence analyzer
through referrals. “Rather than focusing on the number and the skills of an in-house jewellery expert who’s a member
of followers, we wanted to work with people who share our of the Canadian Gemmological Association. It also offers
values,” says owner Courtney Watkins. “Clients who engage authentication services and certificates for goods by select
with [Influencer Program members] feel as though they are designer labels (for a fee).
getting shopping advice from a close friend or family member,
which is on-brand for us.”
MANITOBA
TURNABOUT VINTAGE NUAGE VINTAGE
In business since 1978, this designer-second-hand empire Spot this second-hand store roaming around Manitoba. Located
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF BRILLIANT CLOTHING
has seven Vancouver locations (and one in Victoria), all with inside “Pearl,” a 1968 Boler RV that was made in Winnipeg, it
generous men’s sections and a veritable who’s who of history’s can be found at select markets and festivals across the province
hottest handbags, with regular appearances by icons like the (as well as online) and offers a curation of second-hand pieces
Christian Dior Saddle Bag, the Hermès Birkin and the Gucci inspired by the Prairies and French fashion. Think tan trench
Hobo (to name a few). coats, floral blouses and leather jackets. Owner Natasha Rey
WHAT WE LOVE ♥ Founder Joy Mauro routinely works with says she founded the company to “encourage Canadians to
charities like Dress for Success and Big Sisters, and she even has shop vintage in an effort to help heal the planet.”
a dedicated concept shop (Turnabout Community) on Fraser WHAT WE LOVE ♥ A line of one-of-a-kind upcycled jeans is
Street that donates all its profits to charity. available in Nuage’s online store.
ELLECANADA.COM 45
MINE & YOURS IN VANCOUVER
ONTARIO
COMMON SORT
Toronto cool girls regularly hit this consignment shop
to both sell last season’s outfits and choose new ones
from its broad mix of styles, brands and price ranges
(shoppers come more for the up-to-the-minute trends
than the labels)—not to mention comb through the
generous sales rack. There are three locations in the
city as well as a new spot in Montreal’s Plateau-Mont-
Royal neighbourhood.
WHAT WE LOVE ♥ Hour-long complimentary person-
al-shopping sessions are on offer, which are so helpful
whether you want an outfit for a special occasion or a
total wardrobe refresh.
NOUVEAU RICHE
This “true vintage” spot in Toronto’s Junction Triangle
bills itself as “gender- and size-inclusive”—it even has an
online section dedicated to larger pieces (which can be
impossible to find at many second-hand stores)—and
has a by-appointment studio. Not everything it carries
is designer, but the luxury items it does have—pieces
like ’70s Courrèges knitwear and ’80s Saint Laurent
power suits—are arranged by decade and are sure to
catch any fashion historian’s eye.
WHAT WE LOVE ♥ It also has a housewares section
where you can unearth standouts like Murano-glass
bowls and mid-century-modern picnic blankets.
THE RECOLLECTIVE
One of the best consignment shops in Canada’s capital is
owned by sisters Carla and Kelly Bourada, both of whom
have years of experience in traditional fashion retail.
The daily drops on their Instagram Stories showcase
trendy faves (think Tiffany pendants, Babaton coats and
Smash + Tess rompers), which are viewable both on
a hanger and on a model or mannequin. It’s the next
best thing to browsing the racks if you like the thrill
of the hunt that only second-hand shopping can offer.
WHAT WE LOVE ♥ Sign up for the store’s newsletter
and automatically get 10 percent off select items.
46 ELLECANADA.COM
STYLE
RUSE
This hyper-cool consignment shop is for those who want
Ssense-approved luxury brands for less. (Think Off-White THRIFTY TIPS
bucket hats, Jacquemus blazers and Paloma Wool sweaters.) Second-hand shopping is definitely having a moment,
Online drops come with FOMO-inducing countdowns and but sorting through everything on offer can be
cheeky white-glove videos, and Quebec celebs and stylists love overwhelming. Here are a few tips for getting the best
out of it.
stopping by the boutique for show-stopping pieces.
+ Know your store. There are luxury consignment shops,
WHAT WE LOVE ♥ The shop is located on a strip in Mile
thrift stores, charity stores, vintage shops and rental
End alongside some of Montreal’s best indie stores, including services. Figure out what you want—say, an iconic
Jennifer Glasgow and Unicorn (for local fashion) and Jamais designer bag, a one-season-old skirt or an affordable
swinging-’60s dress—and shop accordingly.
Assez (for chic housewares).
+ Inspect every inch. Look closely at the seams, zippers
and underarms, especially in cheaper second-
hand stores. And if the tag says “as is,” find the flaw
RUSE IN MONTREAL (sometimes it’s just a missing button) and factor in the
cost of repairs.
+ Size things up. Between vintage pieces and
international labels, sizing can be all over the place.
Make sure you try things on or, if you’re shopping
online, get exact measurements and check labels for
materials like Lycra to gauge stretchiness.
+ Adjust your expectations. Sometimes getting a rare
vintage piece or designer clothing at 90 percent off
means it comes with something like a loose thread or
a small stain (and a no-returns policy). Accept a little
risk for a lot of potential reward! Plus, if you buy from a
charity shop, anything you don’t wear can basically be
written off as a charitable donation, right?
+ Make a trade. If you’ve got clothing to consign, many
shops will offer more in credit than they’ll pay out in
cash, which is perfect if you’re also looking to buy.
+ Know your neighbourhood. When it comes to boutique
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF MINE & YOURS & JEAN-BAPTISTE BELLEBNA (RUSE)
ELLECANADA.COM 47
Healing
Through
Words
ALOK VAID-MENON , acclaimed
American poet and LGBTQIA2S+
icon, is manifesting a world
beyond the gender binary.
By AMAN DOSANJ
PROFILE
AMERICAN POET AND HUMAN-RIGHTS ACTIVIST Alok Vaid- binary would not only allow all people to determine what
Menon uses fashion to communicate the many facets of who gender means to them but also foster an appreciation for
they are. For arguably one of the most recognized non-binary complexity over prescribed conformity. Much of that desire
trans-feminine artists of our generation—they are the author for something better stems from their experiences growing
of three acclaimed books and the star of a two-year-long com- up in a South Asian household. “It’s sad because even though
edy world tour and have amassed 1.3 million loyal Instagram non-binary and gender-nonconforming people have existed
followers—that could mean a flowy knee-length floral dress, in South Asia for thousands of years—with different names
rainbow-coloured hair and dangly bell-shaped jhumka earrings and cultural roles—no one told me that,” says Vaid-Menon.
one day and a chest-hair-exposing vintage skirtsuit the next. “So many of our rituals, our ways of coming together, were
That said, the 32-year-old New Yorker explains that the days structured by binary gender norms. No one asked me who I
when they feel their best are also the days when they are the was; there was an assumption of who I was supposed to be.
most afraid. “I feel most beautiful when I’m wearing what I That was very painful. It took me spending time in India on
want [and not worrying about] what other people think,” says my own and connecting with Indian queer communities to
Vaid-Menon, who is known as ALOK. “But when I do that, I help me heal that wound.”
experience the most street harassment. It’s heartbreaking that If that sounds similar to the storyline of the hit CBC Gem
we live in a society that tells people to be themselves and then series Sort Of, that’s because it is. At the end of season two, the
doesn’t defend them when they [do just that]. Authenticity should main character, Sabi, is dealing with the sudden passing of their
be something we all help one another realize.” Muslim father and is uncomfortably thrust into performing
It’s a prominent theme in both Vaid-Menon’s work and duties traditionally carried out by the son. For the third and
their day-to-day life. And at a time when legal discrimination final season (streaming now), Vaid-Menon will feature along-
against LGBTQIA2S+ people in the United States is at a side Bilal Baig, the series’ star and co-creator, who was also
record-breaking high, having the courage to pursue the most the first trans-feminine Muslim lead actor on a prime-time
authentic version of themself is no small feat. According to series in Canada.
the Movement Advancement Project (a non-profit devoted When asked about how we can deconstruct the gender
to providing research, insight and analysis that help promote binary, Vaid-Menon says that it starts with challenging mis-
equality and opportunity for all), U.S. government branches, information that’s presented as truth. “There are no ‘men’s
from local to federal, proposed well over 725 anti-LGBTQIA2S+ clothes’ or ‘women’s clothes’; there are pants, skirts, dresses,
bills. These include restricting health- and gender-affirming shirts—articles of clothing that can be worn by anybody who
care for transgender youth and adults, banning drag shows in wants to wear them!” they say. Perhaps more importantly, this
public spaces, rolling back protections for same-sex marriages long-overdue visibility will teach us that gender is not necessarily
and censoring books by queer writers—the list goes on. But about what we look like but who we are.
these human-rights violations aren’t just happening stateside.
A visible campaign of hate—including the recent “1 Million
March 4 Children” rally led by right-wing conspiracy theorists
protesting sexual-orientation and gender-identity studies in the ALOK’S RECOMMENDED READS
Canadian school system—is accelerating at an alarming rate in
“liberal” Canada. “Sometimes it feels like every day is a potential DECOLONIZE DRAG
doomsday scenario,” says Vaid-Menon. “But my art continually BY KAREEM KHUBCHANDANI
returns me to love and continually grounds me in my truth and “A powerful celebration of drag artistry across
the beauty of the world. Art continues to give me hope.” the world.”
Born to Malaysian and Indian immigrant parents, Vaid-
Menon grew up in College Station, a conservative small town in SIPPING DOM PÉRIGNON THROUGH A STRAW:
Texas. “At every level, I was told that people like me—non-white, REIMAGINING SUCCESS AS A DISABLED ACHIEVER
non-Christian, non-hetero, non-cis—were dirty, unwelcome BY EDDIE NDOPU
[and] fundamentally wrong,” they say. After years of being “A riveting story of grit and glamour by a Black queer
reduced to merely their appearance, the often bearded—and disabled individual.”
unapologetically hairy—poet started writing Femme in Public
(released in 2017), a collection of raw, heart-achingly honest MISS MAJOR SPEAKS: CONVERSATIONS WITH
letters to those who harassed them on the street. “I expected to A BLACK TRANS REVOLUTIONARY
find bitterness on the other side of my pen, but instead I found BY TOSHIO MERONEK & MISS MAJOR GRIFFIN-GRACY
a bountiful love,” they share, having realized that those who “A powerful oral history by a trans elder who was
lash out are also hurting from the straitjacket of the gender at the [1969] Stonewall riots.”
binary (a colonial by-product that separates complex souls into
PHOTOGRAPHY, LAURA SHEPHERD
two categories: male and female). “Poetry taught me how to be YOU CAN’T BE SERIOUS
soft with the people and hard with the problem. To this day, BY KAL PENN
poetry is responsible for my compassion practice.” “A first-hand account of navigating South Asian
Across their work, the artist has continually tried to uplift representation in Hollywood.”
the message that trans rights are not a minority issue; they
are about everyone. For them, a world beyond the gender
ELLECANADA.COM 49
ON REPEAT
Can’t find anything good on TV—or streaming platforms?
It’s time to give in to the joys of rewatching.
By PATRICIA KAROUNOS
A STRANGE THING HAPPENED this past summer. Anyone who is that cellphones, modern technology and the doomscrolling
had some kind of passing interest in TV seemed to be talking of a 24-7 news cycle did not factor in at all, which is helpful
about the show Suits. I watched the legal dramedy—starring when you’re spending multiple hours and days with a familiar
a pre-royal Meghan Markle as an ambitious paralegal and tale. And in a world where streaming has completely changed
Canadian Patrick J. Adams as an unlicensed lawyer with a our relationship with TV and offered up, frankly, too many
photographic memory—when it first aired, from 2011 to 2019, options (according to John Landgraf, chair of the FX network,
hence my confusion about its relevance in 2023. But, sure 599 English-language scripted shows were available in the U.S.
enough, the show had recently been added to Netflix in the in 2022—7 percent more than the year before), rewatching
U.S., and it spread far and fast. As of early October, it had spent something you know you’re going to love is the easier choice.
a record-setting 12 weeks on the top of the Nielsen Streaming What actually makes a show rewatchable, then? “It has
chart—the longest a show has ever claimed the number one spot. to be good—but sometimes people rewatch crap, so maybe
Suits’ rise to streaming domination is partly due to people that’s not the thing,” says Sepinwall, only half joking. “It has to
discovering the show for the first time, but I know, anecdotally, take place in an interesting world. Whether that’s the fabulous
that a fair share of its new-found popularity is because having McMansions of Orange County or just a loft apartment in
it back in the conversation has prompted past viewers to revisit downtown Los Angeles, it has to feel like you’re being taken
the series. Then it clicked: There are few things I find more somewhere that either you’ve never been to or that you haven’t
comforting than rewatching some of my favourite shows. Am been to in a while. And it has to have distinctive characters you
I overwhelmed and stressed? Let’s reunite with my friends in want to spend time with, because that, more than anything else,
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE CW TELEVISION NETWORK
the New Girl loft. Feeling sad? Time to return to cozy Stars is what series television is about.” And it has to feel like classic
Hollow and the perpetually autumnal vibes of Gilmore Girls. TV, because while you might have enjoyed that atmospheric
Need a healthy dose of escapism? California, here we come, prestige streaming miniseries you watched three years ago,
thanks to The O.C. you’re not likely to return to it as you wouldn’t have formed
“[Rewatching TV] is very reassuring,” agrees Alan Sepinwall, the kind of connection you made with an episodic story you
chief TV critic at Rolling Stone and the author of a new book about spent every week watching at one point in your life.
the aforementioned series, Welcome to The O.C.: The Oral History. So, the next time you find yourself mindlessly scrolling through
“It’s not just about feeling comforted by a thing you like. A lot rows and rows of “content” in search of the next great thing that
of the time, it takes you back to an earlier moment. It’s nice and never seems to come, seek solace in an old favourite—it could
innocent.” Look at, say, Friends, which had a resurgence among just be the salve you didn’t know you needed. After all, there’s
millennials a few years ago. Part of its appeal, says Sepinwall, nothing wrong with a bit of comfort food every now and then.
50 ELLECANADA.COM
TELEVISION
RAKHEE MORZARIA
Actor, CBC’s Run the Burbs
KRIS COLLINS
TikTok content creator (a.k.a. @kallmekris)
ELLECANADA.COM 51
PIERLUC DALLAIRE (FRONT) DANCING AT STUD COUNTRY IN L.A.
IT’S 8 P.M. ON A MONDAY NIGHT at the end of August—one of staircase that leads to Champs, a queer-friendly sports bar on
those perfect warm late-summer Montreal evenings when the Saint Laurent Boulevard, and find that the room is packed with
moon is plump and low-hanging and everyone seems to be out, people ready for Spurs, the bar’s new line-dancing night. Some
eating and drinking on terraces and spilling out onto the streets. patrons are sporting cowboy boots and denim vests, some are in
The last thing anyone would want to do is be in an upstairs tasselled shirts, but most, like me, are simply in jeans and a tank
enclosed space. But I make my way up the time-worn wooden top. It’s already hot in here, and we haven’t even begun dancing yet.
52 ELLECANADA.COM
CULTURE
Our host for the evening, of became a community with a really cool, inclusive space to
filmmaker Pat Kiely, stands on hang out, have fun and meet friends—and just line dance.”
a platform at the front of the Kiely and Munroe, who are from Montreal and Toronto
room holding a microphone and respectively, also became regulars at Stud Country while living
wearing worn-in black leather in L.A. and fell in love with not only the dancing but also how it
boots, white jeans and a short- made them feel like they were part of something special. Kiely
sleeved collared shirt that has a was dancing at well-known choreographer Ryan Heffington’s
whisper of Western vibes. He former studio, The Sweat Spot, when he heard about Club
announces that he’s going to Bahia. “I don’t drink, so it’s sort of challenging to find social
be leading us solo because his activities that are stimulating and also get your endorphins
teaching partner, Canadian going,” explains Kiely. “The line-dancing community is just
actor Kathleen Munroe, has a wonderful—it’s not competitive, and you’re building something
new gig in Toronto (everyone together. It can be almost spiritual, where you get a high just
cheers in support), and then he from dance.” For Munroe, who lives between L.A. and Toronto
reminds the crowd of the golden with her wife, taking part was unlike any other experience
rule: “No drinks on the dance she’d had. “It’s pretty intersectional in terms of not just being
f loor!” Shania Twain’s “Any a lesbian event, not just being a gay-guy event, not just being
Man of Mine” starts playing, even a queer event—it’s really open to supportive allies [like
Kiely calls out the moves and Kiely] and open to [any] age,” she says.
everyone breaks into a routine Although communal line dancing has a long history—the
that’s “relatively simple,” accord- first known instructions were recorded in a book of dance
ing to the regulars, who are sheets dating back to the 1650s in England—its current form
stepping, kicking, heel tapping started to become popular in the U.S. during the late 1950s,
and clapping to my left and and it has had a slow but steady ascent since then. What made
right. After all, we’re just getting Oil Can Harry’s, in particular, unique was that it was a safe,
warmed up. non-judgmental place for same-sex couples to line dance
This is not the first time I’ve together and just be themselves. It wasn’t so much about the
been invited to line dance over line dancing (which in itself was popular); rather, it was about
the past few months. When I the environment and how it transformed into more than just
was visiting Los Angeles, former Montrealer (and an old col- a bar for its patrons. That’s why Monaghan and Salisbury
league of mine) Pierluc Dallaire wanted me to experience Stud created Stud Country and why this event has been catching
Country, a queer line-dancing night at Club Bahia in the city’s on with a new, younger generation who are seeking both a
Echo Park borough. It was founded by Sean Monaghan and good time and an open-minded community.
Bailey Salisbury in 2021 after Oil Can Harry’s—the oldest Dallaire was so taken with the weekly dance events that he
gay club in L.A.—sadly closed after 52 years of business. It began searching for others and discovered the L.A. Wranglers,
was well known for its Friday line-dancing night and was a a non-profit queer line-dancing troupe that was started 22
key safe space for the LGBTQIA2S+ community. Monaghan years ago. He auditioned, got in and now travels around the
and Salisbury had been dancing there since 2017, so when it U.S. and performs at various events, including the Stagecoach
shuttered, they decided to find a new home for the night they Festival, L.A. Pride and San Francisco’s Sundance Stompede.
cherished so much. It’s a volunteer association that partners with other groups
Dallaire, who is the director of operations at Botanica, a nationally and internationally—it’s even part of the same close-
restaurant in the L.A. neighbourhood of Silver Lake, had been knit network as Club Bolo in Montreal, a line-dancing troupe
taking recreational dance classes pre-pandemic and felt very in the Village neighbourhood that’s been around for 20 years.
isolated during the lockdown months. “Everything was still Although the Wranglers’ skill level is new to Dallaire, line
closed, and we were doing a [dance] class in the park, and it dancing was very much a part of his upbringing in Quebec’s
kind of sucked,” recalls Dallaire. “One of my friends was like, Montérégie region. “When I was 10, my aunts would come
‘Hey, you should go see Bailey and Sean; they’re doing this pick me up every Monday and drive me to the town next to
night called “Stud Country.”’ We were only about 20 people in ours for line dancing,” he says. “It’s so funny that now I’m into
this weird space with our masks on in the middle of summer, it again but also that it’s the same routines from some of these
and it was really hot, but it was so much fun. Then it just kind old songs I learned 30 years ago.”
ELLECANADA.COM 53
CULTURE
it. And so do I.” After my evening at Spurs—which I went into with abso-
When Kiely moved back home to Montreal this past summer, lutely no dance experience and no expectations—I completely
he reached out to Munroe, who was spending time in Toronto, understand why so many people get hooked on line dancing
to see if she would be interested in starting a line-dancing night and why there’s such a strong desire to honour these spaces
at Champs with him. It was so successful that the pair tested and spread the joy they bring. “I felt very moved by it almost
it out in Toronto, and it has now found a home at the city’s immediately,” says Munroe. “Often at Bahia, I would be crying
Owls Club. It should be noted that, like Dallaire, Kiely and a little on the dance floor, just in awe of it all.”
54 ELLECANADA.COM
DEBUT
SACHA
The Canadian artist is ready to take
over country music.
By PATRICIA KAROUNOS
NEW SOUND “I have evolved. The stuff that I started out doing
GROWING PAINS “I always had this dream to [pursue a career was more, like, backwoods bluegrass folk-Americana. Now, I’m
in] music—I’d do talent shows and write songs. But then life hap- more into the pop-country world. But you’re hearing every influ-
pens and you have nowhere to go; you have to work full-time and ence in country right now, whether it’s hip hop, soul, gospel or
pay your own rent. I was in survival mode, so the dream took a bit rock—it’s all meshing together. I’m working on my album right
of a back seat. But I always knew it had to happen. There was a now and pulling from all the stuff that I love.”
ELLECANADA.COM 55
THE
AI
BIAS
Artificial intelligence, with its
scaremongering headlines around
its future and ours, doesn’t get
good press. But there are a number
of women in the field working to
detoxify AI, and they say now is the
time to pay attention and get involved.
By ROSAMUND DEAN
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT when you think of artificial intel- has warned that in the wrong hands, this technology could be
ligence? Perhaps the Terminator movies, where the machines devastating. Meanwhile, Christopher Nolan says that his film
rise up and destroy us. Or perhaps you don’t think AI is worth Oppenheimer, about the development of the atomic bomb, contains
worrying about until Siri is capable of playing the song you “very strong parallels” with AI, and the whole of Hollywood
actually asked for. Many people fall into one of two camps: Either was recently on strike for fear of what AI might mean for their
they have a fear of some future robot apocalypse or they feel jobs. It’s scary to think that the genie might be out of the bottle
that AI is tech-bro baloney that’s irrelevant to normal people. and little wonder that so many of us take a head-in-the-sand
The trouble is neither camp is engaging with it, so they’re not approach. But there is a bright spot in this story: the women
seeing all the ways AI is affecting our lives right now. working to create positive change and make AI a force for good.
Tech experts agree that AI will be as transformative for One of the areas where AI most affects our day-to-day is the
the world as the internet has been. But the story of AI—from workplace, particularly when it comes to recruitment. “It’s one
Alan Turing’s work in the past century to “Godfather of AI” of the civil-rights issues of our time,” says Hilke Schellmann, an
Geoffrey Hinton’s multi-layered neural networks—has so far Emmy-award-winning investigative reporter and author of the
been written by men. “It’s true that the field is shaped dispropor- upcoming book The Algorithm: How AI Decides Who Gets Hired,
tionately by white dudes, and this is the case in both academic Monitored, Promoted and Fired and Why We Need to Fight Back Now.
and commercial spaces,” says Brittany Smith, associate fellow “We are automating all of the inequities we already have, and
at Cambridge University’s Leverhulme Centre for the Future it goes unnoticed.” If an AI system designed to scan CVs has
of Intelligence. “This means that biases can be encoded into been programmed using those of previous successful candidates,
AI systems in lots of ways.” then it might adopt historical prejudices. For example, if people
Since OpenAI launched the widely used ChatGPT at the who were successful in a particular role before tended to be
end of last year, tech giants such as Microsoft and Google have middle-class white men, then the algorithm will favour certain
been in a race to introduce similar products. The ensuing words, schools or even particular hobbies. So a woman might
frenzy has caused panic that we’re moving too fast. A group be perfect for the job but her CV would be rejected because
of prominent computer scientists signed an open letter insisting it doesn’t meet the nebulous criteria based on who has done
PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY
56 ELLECANADA.COM
TECHNOLOGY
these are misread? What if you’re prone to “resting bitch face,” about the future. “It’s a field where there has been a lot of good
where your neutral expression is perceived as irritated? This work,” she says. Some of that work has been around finding ways
afflicts many of us but is almost always attributed to women. to regulate these systems. Lila Ibrahim is COO of DeepMind, the
“A computer might assume that because you’re smiling, you’re AI-focused arm of Google. She started her career as an engineer
a happy person, but that’s not scientifically rigorous,” says on Intel’s Pentium processor in 1993, so she has seen extraordinary
Schellmann. “And what happens if we’re being compared change over the past 30 years. “The responsibility to ensure that
with successful candidates who are white men? Do they have this technology is representative, inclusive and equitable falls on
expressions that perhaps women, or women of colour, don’t?” us all across tech, government and civil society,” she says. “Like
It’s no coincidence that the earliest critics of AI have been any transformative technology, AI demands exceptional care.
women of colour who quickly realized that their experience That’s why we prioritize diverse perspectives and bring outside
of being marginalized in life was showing up in AI tools. In voices in—to hold us accountable.”
2018, Joy Buolamwini published a study called Gender Shades, She uses the example of DeepMind’s AlphaFold database,
about how facial-recognition systems are inaccurate when used a system that predicts a protein’s 3-D structure based on its
with darker skin. “That form of inaccuracy can lead to people amino-acid sequence, accelerating biological research. “Before
being falsely accused of crimes, which has a direct effect on releasing it, we sought input from more than 30 experts across
their life,” says Smith. “If you’re in jail for the weekend while biology research, security and ethics to help us understand how
you wait to see a judge on Monday morning, you might lose to best share the technology with the world.” She says that
your job or not see your kids.” AI has the potential to help solve some of humanity’s biggest
Worrying about a sci-fi-style apocalypse is something of challenges. “But it must be built responsibly, with diversity,
a distraction from the very real issues that are affecting us equity and inclusion as a priority, not a bolt-on,” she insists.
right now. “So much of the public imagination around AI is “There’s no silver bullet, so we must work to make sure these
focused on speculative existential harms,” says Smith. “Will AI voices have a seat at the table.”
systems become more intelligent than The absence of that silver bul-
us and decide to harm us? Maybe. But let means we’re lucky that there are
your life is already being affected by WORRYING ABOUT smart, focused and ethical individuals
AI systems in ways that we can solve. A SCI-FI-STYLE working in this field, one of whom is
Our ability to intervene successfully APOCALYPSE IS Verity Harding, a globally recognized
today is directly connected to bigger, expert in AI, technology and public
more complex interventions we might SOMETHING OF A policy. Formerly of DeepMind, she is
need in the future. Ignoring what’s right DISTRACTION FROM the founder of tech-consultancy firm
in front of us would be bizarre.” The THE VERY REAL ISSUES Formation Advisory and an affiliated
answer, adds Smith, is in public aware- researcher at Cambridge University’s
ness and participation. “We need more THAT ARE AFFECTING US Bennett Institute for Public Policy. She
public engagement and deliberative RIGHT NOW. rejects the narrative (as referenced by
democracy,” she insists. “Some AI Nolan) that likens AI’s advent to that of
companies have launched efforts to gauge what people think the atomic bomb. “In a democracy, we can all have a say,” she
are appropriate uses of AI. This is great, but we shouldn’t be says. “I’d encourage anyone who’s concerned or excited about
solely dependent on the goodwill of companies to do the right the potential uses of AI to get involved in trying to shape it,
thing for our democracy. This is why it’s so promising that whether by writing to their MP with their views, demanding
governments are paying much closer attention now and why that schools and workplaces have clear AI policies or simply
it’s important that we all think about how to maximize benefits reading more about the subject to understand the clear links
while minimizing risks.” between politics and technology.”
Tech is also a space where women are having some influence Harding’s debut book, AI Needs You: How We Can Change
on the future of AI. Partnership on AI is a non-profit global AI’s Future and Save Our Own (out in March 2024), points to an
alliance of more than 100 organizations, including Meta, Apple, achievable future in which AI serves purpose rather than profit
Google and IBM. “Our goal is to advance the development of and is firmly rooted in societal trust. “The good news is that
AI so that it benefits people and society,” says CEO Rebecca what we call ‘AI’ is actually just people,” she says. “It’s people
Finlay. “We were founded in 2016 when people were starting building new technology and making decisions about what it
to see that although AI has the potential to be extraordinarily should look like and how it should be used.”
positive, it can also be biased and harmful.” And if you think Finlay, Ibrahim, Harding and other women are helping
that you can somehow go through life without engaging with create a more diverse AI workforce, which will expand AI’s
it, Finlay has news for you. “If you’re on TikTok, you’re using creative output. It seems that now is the time to start influencing
AI. If you use Google Maps, you’re using AI. I’d encourage the narrative around AI and how this technology will affect
people to acknowledge that and take a look at those systems and our lives. Humans are still the ones in control here, and we’re
think: How is this working to help me? And how, potentially, already seeing great advances in science and medicine. Forget
could it be hindering me? Because you can’t just disengage. the idea of a robot apocalypse (for now, anyway). Because if we
The reality is that we’re all engaging with it every single day.” were to overlook the benefits of AI out of fear or complacency,
And while Finlay acknowledges the issues, she is optimistic that would be the more imminent catastrophe.
ELLECANADA.COM 57
GUESSING GAME Canadian novelist NITA PROSE is
entering a new chapter—and wants
to take you with her.
By PATRICIA KAROUNOS
“SOMEBODY GOT THE MATH WRONG.” That’s what Canadian writer-editor Nita Prose
first thought when she heard that her debut novel, The Maid, had sold over one mil-
lion copies in North America (and even more in the 40-plus countries it’s available in
around the world). But there was no mistake. The 2022 whodunit, about fast-thinking,
straightforward hotel maid Molly, who is accused of murder after she finds a wealthy
guest dead in his room, remains a literary phenomenon. It was an instant bestseller
in Canada, spent weeks on the New York Times Best Seller list, was a Good Morning
America Book Club pick and has been honoured with a flurry of awards, including a
win at Australia’s prestigious Ned Kelly Awards for Best International Crime Fiction.
PHOTOGRAPHY, DAHLIA KATZ PHOTOGRAPHY (N. PROSE)
It’s even in development to be adapted into a film, which is slated to star Florence Pugh.
And with all the fervour, it became clear—from both a business point of view and the
many enthusiastic readers Prose has interacted with—that people wanted more of
Molly the maid and her cozy mysteries.
Prose, however, wasn’t immediately convinced. “The tricky part was how to
deliver more without delivering less,” she says. “The challenge was whether I could
unveil a new story that would do Molly justice rather than diminish a character that
so many readers hold close to their hearts. I said to myself and my editors: ‘I’m only
going to commit to this once I feel I have something that is as good or better than
The Maid. You will never see it if I don’t think I’ve succeeded.’”
58 ELLECANADA.COM
BOOKS
Then came what the writer calls “a lightning bolt” of an ported to different worlds and understanding different people
idea. Prose had been toying with setting a story in an old house through characters,” says Prose. “I was often reading things
filled with history and secrets when she was travelling in the that were supposedly for ‘older,’ more ‘mature’ kids, and I’m
U.K. to promote The Maid. While there, she visited a museum sure I didn’t understand everything I was reading at the time,
in a castle and came across two unusual items: a mummified but I loved the feeling of curiosity and [hoped] that maybe
rat carcass and an old silver spoon. As it turned out, this was a one day I would come to understand these things more fully.”
commemorative display for a maid who’d worked in the castle But writing wasn’t a career she chased. She spent time as a
long ago and been fired for stealing silverware—though she special-education teacher, sharing her love of reading with
claimed she didn’t do it. Years after her firing, when restoration her students, before going to school for publishing, which is
work was being done on the building, the walls were opened up how she ended up working at Simon & Schuster Canada.
and the missing silverware was found in a rat’s nest. Suddenly, As an editor, Prose has overseen titles by Ruth Ware, Kate
Prose couldn’t get her mind to stop whirring. Morton, Iain Reid and Rupi Kaur. She’s even ghostwritten
That parable is how she starts The Mystery Guest, a stand- books and published reviews. And although reading, teaching
alone sequel to The Maid that hits shelves on November 28 and editing have all occupied a similar space in her brain,
(and is published by Viking Canada). Molly is back, but now writing professionally—crafting her own stories actually
she’s the head maid at the Regency Grand Hotel and much intended for other people to read—still wasn’t something
more self-assured and secure with where she’s at in life. But she ever considered.
when a famed reclusive author—whom Molly’s kind-hearted Until a lightning bolt—different from the one that sparked
late gran worked for decades earlier—drops dead during an The Mystery Guest—struck, that is. In 2019, Prose was on a
event at the hotel, Molly finds herself back in the middle of a business trip when she walked into her hotel room and startled
criminal investigation, and it’s being led by the same detective a maid who was tidying up. She has often talked about how
who tried to pin the last murder on her. Whereas The Maid that interaction made her realize that being a maid is both
was, in part, about exploring how human connection and care an invisible and an incredibly intimate job, and on the plane
should be enough to set aside differences, The Mystery Guest home, she started writing what would become The Maid and
homes in on how finding a sense of belonging can change how couldn’t stop. “The lightning bolt is just one glorious gift—then
you operate in the world. “It’s really about growth and coming there’s the hard part,” she says. “When I got that idea, there
into yourself,” says Prose, who is also the vice-president and was something about it that made me really want to try to get
editor-in-chief at Simon & Schuster Canada in Toronto under through the tough stuff. I wanted to see, just for myself, if I
her full name, Nita Pronovost. (She adopted “Prose” as a pen could make it to the end of that story.”
name to distinguish between her dual roles in the publishing Now Prose knows that there’s an actual audience for her
world.) “And with that growth comes a real curiosity about writing, so she did feel some pressure as she worked on her
who other people are too—when you grow into yourself, you second novel, especially after the beyond-expectations success
have more room to consider others.” of her debut. But she wouldn’t change a thing.
Molly isn’t the only one who has gone on In her mind, the relationship between writer
a journey of self in between the two books. and reader is symbiotic and invaluable. Books
As a writer, Prose has evolved too and now are the product not just of their authors but of
feels a greater sense of confidence and trust in their readers too. “My feeling has always been
herself as she works. This has also led to her that the book isn’t mine when it’s done—there’s
finding more enjoyment in the act of writing, a feeling of relief that comes over me because
something most writers will tell you is hard to this thing I’ve held close to my heart is no
do. It’s a long way from the rural route outside longer mine and I can give it away, and it can
of Toronto that Prose grew up on—but, then mean something, hopefully, to someone else,”
again, not quite. she says. “I write for readers. My goal is not to
She’s always been a fanatical “omnivore” complete the picture but to leave enough space
reader, eagerly tearing through books of any for them to embellish, see and create in their
and every genre. “I loved the sense of escape own minds. It makes writing easier because
reading gave me—the feeling of being trans- then I don’t feel completely alone.”
ELLECANADA.COM 59
SHIM-SHIMMER
Frosted lids à la Y2K were
huge on the runways. Pretend
you’re counting down the PLAY
T
last seconds of 1999 with
a medley of silver shadows
(Diorshow 5 Couleurs in 043
Night Walk, $84) going all the
way from your lashes to your
brows. Sometimes, more
really is more.
JACKET AND TURTLENECK (BALENCIAGA),
HAT (HEIRLOOM HATS) AND NECKLACE
(CAROLE TANENBAUM)
FRINGE FEST
Pile on the mascara—the
one and only Diorshow ($40),
of course—to your heart’s
content and channel your
beauty
inner ’60s mod girl. Consider
adding in a few individual
falsies for even more drama.
A simple swipe of gloss (Dior
Addict Lip Maximizer in 050
Holographic Silver, $54)
completes the picture.
COAT (MARNI) AND EARRINGS (BIKO)
TIME
We took Dior Beauty’s holiday collection out for a spin.
Here’s to making the most of the season with bold hues,
twinkling finishes and a hearty dose of fun.
Photographer LIAN BENOIT Creative direction OLIVIA LEBLANC
Text & beauty direction KATHERINE LALANCETTE Makeup CAROLE THE ARTIST
Hair MADDIE ALPER Styling NADIA PIZZIMENTI
SLICK MOVES
BEAUTY
Who says gloss should only
go on your lips? Double the
shine by layering Dior Addict
Lip Maximizer (shown here in
049 Pure Copper, $54) over
gilded shadow (Diorshow 5
Couleurs in 543 Promenade
Dorée, $84). Lips are glazed
with Dior Addict Lip Glow in
058 Opal Pearl ($54).
JACKET (CHRISTIAN DIOR), TURTLENECK
(STYLIST’S OWN) AND EARRINGS
(CAROLE TANENBAUM)
PHOTOGRAPHY,
62 ELLECANADA.COM
I’LL HAVE THE RED
Adopt an all-crimson-
everything motto (after all,
it’s the colour of the season)
with tone-on-tone makeup.
Cheeks get a generous serving
of blush (Rouge Blush in 621
Splendid Rose, $63), while lips
are painted in the iconic 999
(Rouge Dior Forever Liquid,
$58), a red that somehow
looks incredible on everyone.
DRESS (ESTER MANAS AT ABSOLUTELY FABRICS)
BEAUTY
LOUD MOUTH
It doesn’t get more festive than
glittering lips! Meet the new
sequin-finish version of Rouge
Dior Forever Liquid ($58); it’s
available in four fabulous
shades, including this deep
purple, 993 Magical. The
perfect plus-one for any party.
BLAZER, SHIRT AND BOW TIE (CHRISTIAN DIOR)
PHOTOGRAPHY,
SMARTY-
PANTS
What if we could train our skin
to be more...intelligent?
By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
W
E JETTED OFF TO TOKYO, beauty capital of the We know we can foster our intellect by reading up on topics
world, where it seems cosmetics shops stand on and remaining curious about the world around us, but how
every corner and the plethora of products on can we go about honing our skin’s intelligence? It’s as simple as
offer—a mix of cutting-edge innovation and time-honoured doing something nice for our skin. “By receiving good stimuli,
classics—are enough to make even the most seasoned beauty the intelligence of cells increases and the skin becomes more
writer dizzy. and more beautiful,” explains the expert. “Giving your skin
It’s no coincidence that luxury brand Clé de Peau Beauté, something it enjoys is a very good thing!”
part of the Shiseido group, was born here more than 40 years That means smoothing on cocooning products, taking the
ago; pushing the limits of science to better understand skin is time to massage our face and incorporating effective ingredients,
in its DNA. And its latest discovery might be its most exciting like Clé de Peau Beauté’s new Skin-Empowering Illuminator
yet. Studies conducted by Shinobu Nakanishi, molecular complex, which is formulated with platinum gold silk essence,
biologist and research scientist at Clé de Peau Beauté, and his Japanese pearl-shell extract and theanine as well as perilla and
team have revealed that our skin cells have receptors that are angelica extracts. (The brand’s glow-enhancing solutions are
tied to the five senses. They allow our epidermis to monitor its now all powered by the special brew.)
environment and adapt itself to it in a manner that’s completely It’s a philosophy we could all stand to benefit from—and not
independent from our brain. just from a skincare standpoint. It comes down to peppering
“We’ve successfully visualized the network in the skin our days with little pleasures: petting a purring cat, listening
that is separated from the brain’s neuron network,” explains to a feel-good tune, breathing in a fabulous fragrance... After
Nakanishi. “This discovery represents a significant advancement all, if positive stimuli are good news for our complexion, why
in understanding skin behaviour and opens up new possibilities not let our whole being in on the action?
for further research and development.”
So how do these receptors work exactly? “It’s fascinating
to see that the cells are reacting as if they were thinking for
themselves,” says Nakanishi. “They can even communicate A+ STUDENT
PHOTOGRAPHY, MARTIN SWEERS/TRUNK ARCHIVE (MAIN IMAGE)
with each other.” Pretty cool, right? The genes in these cells
Earn extra credit
form a sort of “community” and react together to different
with these
stimuli—be they positive (such as a pleasant scent, a nourishing
skin-intelligence-
ingredient, a luscious texture) or negative (pollution, stress, UV
boosting formulas.
rays)—and determine our skin’s key attributes.
The great news is that by upping our skin’s intelligence, 1.
we can actually improve the way our cells interact with each
other, which can directly impact our complexion, affecting
everything from texture to radiance. “Skin with high intelli- 2.
3.
gence is more resilient and adaptive and better equipped to
protect itself from external aggressors such as dryness and UV 1. CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ INTENSIVE FORTIFYING CREAM ($235). 2. CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ
HYDRO-SOFTENING LOTION ($150). 3. CLÉ DE PEAU BEAUTÉ THE SERUM ($395).
damage and internal aggressors such as stress,” says Nakanishi. CLEDEPEAUBEAUTE.CA
66 ELLECANADA.COM
SHOPPING
Special
pillowy pout), this lipstick has party
written all over it. CHARLOTTE TILBURY
ROCK LIPS IN READY FOR LUST ($48,
If there’s one skincare brand that
CHARLOTTETILBURY.COM)
will make any beauty fan squeal, it’s
Augustinus Bader. This set—designed
to maintain skin’s radiance through
Delivery
the colder months—combines
the line’s cult-classic moisturizer
with a creamy cleansing gel and
eye-awakening patches. AUGUSTINUS
BADER THE WINTER RADIANCE SYSTEM
($290, AUGUSTINUSBADER.COM)
By KATHERINE LALANCETTE
This luscious body polish smells like
a cup of hot cocoa and leaves you
velvety from head to toe—even in
the depths of winter. HERBIVORE HOT
COCO COCONUT OIL BODY SCRUB
($33, HERBIVOREBOTANICALS.COM)
ELLECANADA.COM 67
EYE
CANDY
After falling by the wayside, bold shadow
is primed for a comeback. Presenting the
fresh, modern way to dress up your lids.
By KATHERINE LALANCETTE
W
HEN MAKEUP BRAND MERIT held a company brain-
storm to discuss making a foray into the eye-colour
category, the first question posed to the team was
“Who here wears eyeshadow?” The response? “Nobody in the
room raised their hand,” recalls chief marketing officer Aila
Morin. “It just wasn’t a relevant everyday product.”
Merit staffers weren’t the only ones who felt that way. After
growing steadily in the 2010s, eyeshadow sales saw a steep decline.
By 2020, they were down by 42 percent, according to a Nielsen
report. While it’d be easy to blame the pandemic, the slump
began well before we all baked our first loaf of sourdough. A
year earlier, The Business of Fashion had published a piece called
“The Great Makeup Crash of 2019,” while Vogue Business had
announced that “The US Cosmetics Boom [Was] Over.”
Analysts cited the growing popularity of skincare as the
main reason why beauty spending habits were changing. The
contoured faces and flat matte lips of the vlogger era were being
replaced by a more natural aesthetic—one that would eventu-
ally come to be known as the “clean girl” look. Elaborate eye
makeup suddenly seemed out of place in the new paradigm.
The way people adorn their eyes actually reveals a lot about
COLLAGE, ANNE-SOPHIE PERREAULT; PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY (CELEBRITIES) & STEVEN PAN (VIOLETTE_FR)
a particular period, says makeup historian Sara Long. “When
we look back through history, it’s very interesting [to see] how
we evoke different emotions with the types of trends, shapes
and colours we use—in particular around the eyes because
the eyes are how we communicate.”
In times of peace and prosperity, for instance, eye makeup
tends to be softer and rounder, whereas it becomes more
angular during moments of political or economic distress. Take
the ’80s, for example—the height of the Cold War, when it
was all about harsh, straight lines. “It was highly reflective of
the anxiety of the time, like, ‘Oh, my gosh, is there going to be
nuclear warfare?’ Makeup mirrors a lot of what’s going on in
the world,” says Long.
So where are we at now, nearly four years since COVID
began? It seems we might be ready to welcome shadow back
into our lives. A survey conducted by Merit showed that while
shadow was the product consumers used least, it was actually the
one they most yearned to see the brand create. The question
was: What would it take to bring eyeshadow back to people’s
BEAUTY
daily routines? “There was a little trepidation in taking on a Interestingly, throughout her career, marketing experts have
category that everyone wanted but no one was using,” says Morin. often warned the pro that there’s little demand for colourful
The segment was certainly ripe for a rebrand. Twenty- shadows. “I’d be consulting for companies and people would
shade palettes requiring multiple brushes to apply now felt tell me, for example, ‘Forget blue—it doesn’t sell,’ and I’d say:
overwhelming, not to mention completely at odds with the ‘But blue is fantastic! It’s just that a really good one hasn’t been
current effortless ideal. Consumers wanted simplicity and to made.’” She’s gone on to design a succession of bestselling
appear as though they hadn’t tried too hard. brightly hued eye products for brands like Dior, Estée Lauder,
Known for its minimalist ethos, Merit sought to capture the her own eponymous range and, most recently, Guerlain, where
mood with Solo Shadow, a cream-to-powder formula launched she serves as creative director of makeup. Her newest collec-
this fall in eight shades: four neutrals and four “statements.” The tion for the beauty house includes an opulent holiday palette
finger-friendly texture was specially devised to go on with zero fuss featuring flashes of emerald, gold and amethyst.
or fallout and stay put without settling into lines. Most importantly, “I’ve realized people actually do like colour; it’s just a matter
its effect is casual enough to sport with a T-shirt and jeans. of how it’s developed,” she says. “My biggest joy is creating
That’s precisely the look that’s become French makeup strong colours but making them super chic, and so far, it’s
artist Violette Serrat’s signature. (You might know her better worked really well.”
as Violette_FR, her highly popular social-media handle.) Merit experienced similar results. Not only did Solo Shadow
Somehow, in her Paris-bred expert hands, even sparkly magenta prove to be a smashing success, rapidly selling out, but sales
lids manage to read as the height of insouciance. of the “statement” hues—a rich navy, a forest green, a soft
Serrat tends to favour applications comprising one or two mauve and a charcoal grey—far surpassed projections. “It’s
colours maximum, usually blended sans brush either just really interesting because I think as much as we all love an
along the lashes or from lash line to crease. She doesn’t worry everyday neutral, there’s almost an appetite for having a little
about making it pristine from the outset and simply cleans up fun with our makeup again,” says Morin.
any mess afterwards with a cotton swab dipped in makeup Long isn’t surprised. During a time when we were all afraid
remover. Easy-peasy. of getting sick, it made sense for a fresh, healthy aesthetic—
“It’s a balance—you have to think in a 360-degree way flushed cheeks, glowing skin—to be all the rage. She views
and not just look at one zone,” she says of how to make vibrant the return of eyeshadow “as a kind of rebellion in response to
shadow feel laid-back and not overdone. “So if you do a green the pandemic, when everything was so restricted.” Now, we’re
smoky eye, for example, your hair needs to look clean but not ready to let loose, paint our lids with a quick, imperfect swipe
overly styled. Maybe you skip foundation, or use very little, of a finger and enjoy living again.
and you go neutral on the lips.” The outfit is also part of the Because at the end of the day, opting for vivid eyeshadow
equation. Serrat’s favourite ensemble to pair with a bold eye is shouldn’t be about subscribing to a trend, says Serrat. “You
a sweatshirt (usually borrowed from her husband), blue jeans should go toward colour because you crave it, you have a need
and shoes that “are elegant but not high heels.” for it and it just makes you feel really good.”
PUT A LID ON IT
A look at the latest and greatest eye adornments.
Hermès recently entered Done the Violette way, The glittery zebra-striped This is the ideal soft grey for If you think you suck at
the eye-makeup space twinkling purple feels just as packaging alone is enough creating a smoky eye that’s applying eyeshadow, you
with a collection of shadows, right at a holiday party as it to make us covet this limited- sexy but not severe. We love haven’t tried these sticks.
mascaras and application does on a regular Tuesday edition palette, but what’s how the matte finish gives it a With their buttery texture
tools. Let’s have a moment of morning. Also, the liquid inside is even better. cool ’90s feel. and easy-to-grip format,
appreciation for this exquisite formula is a dream to apply; GUERLAIN OMBRES G EYESHADOW MERIT SOLO SHADOW IN NELSON
they make embellishing lids
palette-cum-objet d’art. simply swipe it on and go. QUAD IN 879 GLITTERY TIGER ($31, MERITBEAUTY.COM) virtually foolproof.
($105, GUERLAIN.COM)
HERMÈS LE REGARD EYESHADOW VIOLETTE_FR YEUX PAINT IN FENTY BEAUTY BY RIHANNA
PALETTE IN OMBRES MARINES VIOLETTE SAUVAGE SHADOWSTIX IN CANDY RAPPER
($140, HERMES.COM) ($42, VIOLETTEFR.COM) ($34, SEPHORA.CA)
ELLECANADA.COM 69
LIKE A ONCE SLEEPY NEIGHBOURHOOD
being declared the hip new area, the bar-
rier has become skin’s hottest real estate
of late. Stroll through the beauty aisles
and you’ll find shelves full of launches
solely dedicated to safeguarding this
outermost layer of skin.
Sure, you could discount this as just a
new way to market moisturizer, but there
seems to be more at play here. The trend
signals a significant shift away from the
skincare philosophy that prevailed in
years past—namely that we should buff
and sting our way to a glassy countenance
or reach for the bottles boasting the
highest concentrations of actives.
These days, the focus seems to be on a
gentler, simpler approach. Instead of trying
to obliterate a specific perceived flaw—a
wrinkle here, a dark spot there—the idea
is to treat skin more kindly and holistically.
“Before, we were focusing on exfoliat-
ing and using harsh chemicals, but what
can end up happening is we overindulge
in all the things we think are good for us,”
says Dr. Neha Goyal, co-medical director
at MD Beauty Clinic in Toronto. Not
that retinols or peels are inherently bad,
says the pro. Quite the contrary: They
can be incredibly beneficial. But potent
actives call for caution. Let’s put it this
way: If you’re not seeing the results you
want from your skincare, chances are
you’ve gone too far. “When you strip
away all the oils, the skin starts to act up
because you’re actually working against
your goal,” says Goyal.
Once your barrier is compromised,
you might start to experience things
like redness, itching or sensitivity. “That
inflammation can lead to the develop-
ment of acne and eczema flare-ups,”
says Dr. Monica Li, a Vancouver-based
GOOD
dermatologist, who adds that barrier
damage may be due to your skincare
routine, hot showers or the environment.
“Cold, dry weather is an external factor
that can damage the skin barrier,”
PHOTOGRAPHY, LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT (MODEL)
DEFENCE
she says. (Canadian winters, anyone?)
When left untreated, this kind of chronic
inflammation can speed up skin aging.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, a
strong barrier translates to a clear, plump
“Barrier” is beauty’s latest buzzword. Turns out and glowing complexion and skin that
setting boundaries isn’t just good for your mental feels soft and smooth to the touch. Who
health—it’s essential for your skin too. wouldn’t want that, right? Here, we break
down how to get a healthy barrier and
By MELISSA FEJTEK maintain it all winter long.
70 ELLECANADA.COM
BEAUTY
dermatologists, who often see patients ing off snow, and any damage from the
come in with rashes, redness or pimples as sun can also damage the skin barrier,”
a result of overdoing it with their regimen, says Li. And if you regularly exfoliate, Did you know mineral
sunscreen is less likely to
the change couldn’t be more welcome. cut back to once or twice a week during cause irritation than its
“When it comes to skincare, more is often the winter months or forgo it altogether if chemical counterpart?
This one goes on clear
not better,” Li reminds us. That’s why you’re on the sensitive side. “People often on all skin tones and feels
totally weightless.
experts recommend streamlining your believe that they need to use an exfoliant,
SUMMER FRIDAYS SHADEDROPS
routine if you’re noticing signs of damage. but the skin naturally sheds cells to make BROAD SPECTRUM SPF 30
MINERAL MILK SUNSCREEN
Think of it as a sort of elimination diet room for new ones underneath,” says ($48.50, SEPHORA.CA)
for your face. It will give your barrier Li. “Humans are pretty resilient, and
time to heal, and then, once things calm so is the skin barrier, as long as you’re
down, you can slowly reintroduce and not adding to the damage or irritation.
experiment with targeted products based Simplify your routine so that you’re
on your specific needs and monitor how keeping the essentials and giving the
your skin reacts. skin time to repair itself.”
ELLECANADA.COM 71
BEAUTY
A BEAUTY STAR
IS BORN
LADY GAGA is no stranger to pushing boundaries, whether in music,
fashion or movies. Now, she’s ready to shake up the makeup world.
By HEATHER TAYLOR-SINGH
IN THE TRADITION OF POP ICONS like David Bowie and Madonna before her, Lady
Gaga is a master of reinvention. With every album launch comes a new, fully realized
persona—from an electropop princess for The Fame to a guitar-strumming, pink-
cowboy-hat-donning Americana darling for Joanne.
Then there are the red-carpet appearances, which are often more akin to
performance art. Remember the meat dress? (The woman wore an actual flank
steak on her head.) Or the time she turned up at the Grammys in an egg hoisted
by latex-clad models?
But make no mistake about it: With Lady Gaga, it’s never a mere gimmick or
an attention grab. There is an earnestness to every look and every decision—a true
devotion to artistry.
“When people would say ‘persona’ to me, I used to feel almost offended because
my persona is still an extension of my personality,” she says. “I think the implication
is that it’s not real or that it’s fake, but it’s always real.”
The same goes for her makeup. Whether she’s rocking a full face or barely a
stitch, she is completely herself—or, rather, one of her selves. That’s part of the ethos
behind Haus Labs, her makeup line, which she relaunched last year. For her, it’s
not so much about how the products make you look (although, spoiler: They make
you look really good, especially the new concealer, but more on that later) but how
they make you feel: strong, confident and never like you’re hiding or striving to be
someone else. Here, the multi-hyphenate opens up about self-care, feeling beautiful
and doing things her way.
WHAT HAS WORKING ON HAUS LABS TAUGHT YOU ABOUT MAKEUP? “I didn’t realize
how much people didn’t believe in innovation—or that it was even possible—in the
makeup space. It was much more about how you look wearing a makeup product
than about feeling your best and makeup being good for your skin. It kind of didn’t
matter if makeup was good or bad for your skin as long as you looked good—and I
PHOTOGRAPHY, DOMEN & VAN DE VELDE
really hated that. I thought: ‘This is exactly what I don’t want. So how can we make
this better?’ Considering all the amazing innovations you see all over the world when
it comes to different kinds of products that are not makeup, I thought, ‘Well, we
can definitely make a brand that’s clean, vegan and cruelty-free and not sacrifice
performance but optimize performance.’ Makeup should be extremely functional.
The thing I’m so proud of with this company is that it has the heart and soul of the
things I love about self-care and beauty.”
ELLECANADA.COM 73
BEAUTY
SELF-CARE SEEMS TO BE A KEY ELEMENT IN HAUS LABS’ MESSA- HOW HAS YOUR RELATIONSHIP WITH BEAUTY EVOLVED OVER TIME?
GING. WHY IS THAT IMPORTANT TO YOU? “I know first-hand “When I was a teenager, I was really self-conscious and I loved
that makeup can really help transform your spirit, build makeup and the way it helped give me some type of superhero
your confidence and strengthen your sense of self. Some cape. When I was in high school, I did a full-face high-cover-
people feel like that shouldn’t be the case—that when you age foundation. When I got out of high school, I discovered
have no makeup on, you should just feel 100 percent con- eyeliner—I found that it really gave me a [way to] express the
fident in yourself. And if that’s how someone feels, that’s edge of my personality. I went to a school where it wasn’t really
wonderful, but that’s just not true for everybody. For some okay to express [yourself] with your physical appearance. So
people, makeup is a way to feel better about who they are I really started screaming [about who I was] when I got out of
and express who they are. I’m a big believer in makeup as school. Then I got deeper and deeper into music and started to
self-care. I wanted to frame it that way within the company create these various personas for myself with makeup, and they
so we could say ‘This is not just about how you look; this is all felt natural. For me, makeup was a way to be whomever I
about how you feel.’” wanted to be at any given moment and say the things on the
outside that I was feeling on the inside—but not with words.
BEING INNOVATIVE IS SOMETHING YOU’RE KNOWN FOR AS A Instead of telling people who you are, you’re showing them.”
MUSICIAN. HOW DID YOU PUSH FOR INNOVATION WITH HAUS
LABS? “When I started this brand, I think people wanted WHAT MUST-HAVE PRODUCTS DO YOU ALWAYS HAVE ON YOU?
me to innovate in the space of creativity because that’s how “I’m not just saying this, but I do actually always have our
they know me. And I did—I just did it differently. I did it concealer in my pocketbook. It’s the first thing I put on after
by applying skin science to our formulas. It was more of an my moisturizer in the morning, even if I’m not doing a full
exercise in innovation and formulation. With the concealer, face of makeup. Then I’ll put on some lip oil, and sometimes
for example, everybody wants a concealer that brightens, blurs I’ll take the lip oil from my lips and dab it on my cheeks. If
and conceals in the most beautiful way—and this [one] does. I’m really feeling like I want to have a little something extra,
It has an extremely creamy, beautiful texture and amazing I’ll add a blush into the mix—our Color Fuse blush. And I’m
ingredients. But the additional thing it does—which is kind of done! I would say that’s my everyday look.”
the hallmark of what I’ve been doing with this company—is
expand knowledge of beauty. We’ve done a lot of testing using WHAT’S BEEN THE MOST REWARDING PART OF LAUNCHING
a biotech caffeine that’s [based on] Ayurvedic medicine, so it YOUR OWN BRAND? “We love our fans so much, and we just
looks beautiful. This concealer gives you long-lasting beauty want to make everyone happy by delivering high-quality
effects: It de-puffs under the eyes and decreases redness all products that really enhance the artistry experience and the
over the skin. It allows you to feel like you’re taking care of beauty experience. So, for me, there’s always that warmth in
yourself all day long.” my heart when I see the makeup make somebody’s day.”
74 ELLECANADA.COM
Helping women & teens FAC IN G CANCE R
For each Lip Comfort Oil sold exclusively at Shoppers Drug Mart®,
*Valide jusqu’au 2 $5 will ou
décembre bejusqu’à
donated to des
épuisement Look Good Feel Better®.*
stocks.
OUR PARTNERS
A BEAUTIFUL
LEGACY
You might not know his name, but French pharmacist Pierre Fabre
single-handedly transformed the worlds of hair care and dermatology.
By THÉO DUPUIS-CARBONNEAU
SOME RITUALS ARE SO EMBEDDED in our day-to-day that it’s he made significant contributions to the pharmaceutical
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE PIERRE FABRE GROUP
hard to imagine a time when they didn’t exist. Take dry sector—helping develop cancer drugs, for instance—as well
shampoo, for example—a much appreciated time saver on as to skincare and wellness. We have him to thank for brands
many a hurried morning, allowing you to quickly refresh like Avène, Klorane and Ducray, which, although deeply
your roots without wetting your hair. The genius behind rooted in the south of France, have found great success on the
this invention? Pierre Fabre, who, in 1967, dreamed up the international scene, including right here in Canada.
product for his bedridden maman. Klorane Dry Shampoo Hoping to learn more about the illustrious founder, we
went on to collect numerous awards, and today, one bottle paid a visit to his native Occitania. As we hopped around
is sold worldwide every 11 seconds. from Toulouse to Avène to Soual, it became clear just how
But Fabre’s achievements stretch far beyond the hair-care deeply the pharmacist’s vision had influenced our daily lives
aisle. Through his tireless commitment to medical research, and continues to do so to this day.
76 ELLECANADA.COM
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: THE
PIERRE FABRE BOTANICAL
CONSERVATORY; BOTANY,
BEAUTY
A PILLAR OF THE PIERRE
FABRE PHILOSOPHY; THE
AVÈNE HYDROTHERAPY
CENTRE, AT THE FOOT OF
THE CÉVENNES MOUNTAINS
ELLECANADA.COM 77
LOOKING
AHEAD
From sci-fi hair and makeup tools to
AI-generated skin advances, the future
of beauty is looking mighty bright.
By SOPHIE BANFORD AND KATHERINE LALANCETTE
FORTUNE TELLERS HAVE CRYSTAL BALLS; industry insiders have conditions in mind. It makes putting on lipstick and mascara
VivaTech. The buzzy conference, held yearly in Paris, is often easier than ever. Just plug in your preferred product and enjoy
where the latest and greatest innovations in pretty much every a flawless application.
field imaginable (health, energy, telecom—you name it) are
unveiled. That applies to beauty too. So we headed to the City KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
of Light, slipped on our passes and got a sneak peek at what’s Are your cheeks feeling dry because they’re lacking water or oil?
next in skincare, makeup and more. Put it this way: We might Are your strands rough to the touch because they need protein
not have flying cars yet, but our beauty routines are about to or emollients? Cutting-edge devices will soon give you all the
PHOTOGRAPHY, GETTY (MAIN IMAGE), COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL(OTHER IMAGES)
get seriously high-tech. answers, providing an in-depth look at your skin and hair and
taking the guesswork out of picking products. Giorgio Armani’s
BEAUTY FOR ALL Meta Profiler, comprising a real-time hydration sensor and an
Meet Hapta by Lancôme, the world’s first hand-held computer- algorithm built on over 100,000 skin captures, measures 13
ized makeup applicator. It was devised for those experiencing markers, including wrinkles, dark spots and redness. It features
hand-motion challenges due to things like arthritis, tremors, 18 analytical LEDs and even a 3-D mode for assessing smooth-
Huntington’s disease or stroke-related issues. The device uses ness and texture. All it takes is a few minutes at an Armani
stabilizing technology to assist anyone with limited grip strength counter and you’ll find out everything that’s going on with
or wrist mobility as well as those who have trouble raising their your skin. Then there’s Kérastase’s K-Scan, a smartcamera
arms. How great is that? Here’s how it works: Advanced sensors that provides hairstylists with a deeper understanding of their
keep the tool level, constantly adjusting to the user’s position clients’ hair and scalp. The tool takes microscopic pictures
and counteracting any unintentional movement, while the of both, and then the images are evaluated via AI-powered
ergonomic design—think a super-easy-to-hold handle—was analysis so your pro knows exactly which products and in-salon
created with people who have arm-, hand- or wrist-related treatments are best for you.
78 ELLECANADA.COM
L’ORÉAL PARIS
COLORSONIC BEAUTY
MAYBELLINE
BEAUTY APP
HAPTA BY LANCÔME
VIRTUAL ASSISTANCE
Picture the scene: You’re working from home in your pyjamas,
hair unbrushed and dark circles down to your cheekbones,
when a calendar alert pops up on your screen, reminding you
of a video call you’d completely forgotten about. Oh, and it
starts in five minutes! Been there before? Same. Not to worry,
though; the Maybelline Beauty App for Microsoft Teams has
got your back. Consider it your own personal makeup artist.
It allows you to choose between 12 virtual looks, from subtle
and natural to bold and playful. They were developed in col-
laboration with the Geena Davis Institute, which examines
intersectional onscreen representation, to ensure they would
suit a broad range of users. All you have to do is launch Teams,
go to Video Effects, click the Maybelline tab and start trying
on looks. Select your favourite and join the meeting. It’s that
simple and still gives you ample time to run a comb through
your hair and change your shirt.
DIY PRO
In the near future, next-gen gadgets will allow you to benefit GREEN LIGHT
from expert assistance from the comfort of your own bathroom. When we consider the future, it’s essential to take into account
Take, for example, the L’Oréal Paris Colorsonic, a first-of-its- ways to reduce our impact on the environment. That’s where
kind device that’s about to make colouring your hair at home the L’Oréal Professionnel Water Saver comes in. It’s a shower
totally foolproof. Nine years in the making, the revolutionary head that divides the flow of water to create 10-times-smaller
tool perfectly mixes your colour and then practically applies droplets, which are then delivered at an accelerated speed
it for you. The brush moves 300 times per minute to evenly for faster and more effective rinsing. This cuts down water
distribute the dye, saturating every strand and getting right use by a whopping 60 percent. It gets even better: Thanks to
into the roots, even in those hard-to-reach areas, like the back a patented approach called “Cloud Cleansing,” micronized
of your head. The smart bristles adjust their speed to deposit hair-care formulas specifically made for the Water Saver
exactly the right amount needed for your hair type. Even bet- are infused directly into the water stream for better product
ter, the formula is packed with hydrating and shine-boosting distribution and absorption. The technology is already rolling
ingredients and contains zero ammonia, silicones, parabens and out globally and is expected to be in 10,000 salons worldwide
phthalates. Just pick your shade, pop in the cartridge and start in the next few years. And great news: An at-home version is
brushing your hair. The Colorsonic will take care of the rest. currently in the works.
ELLECANADA.COM 79
LOREM IPSUM
ON THE MOVE
Out-of-office doesn’t have to mean out of sync with your feel-good
fitness habits. Here’s how to keep active while travelling.
By CAITLIN KENNY
PHOTOGRAPHY,
80 ELLECANADA.COM
HEALTH
ELLECANADA.COM 81
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PHOTOGRAPHY, RONAN MCKENZIE; COAT AND SKIRT (SELASI), GLOVES (HANDSOME STOCKHOLM), BOOTS (Y/PROJECT) AND EARRINGS (ALEXANDER MCQUEEN)
ENVY (2008-2013) BY BARRY X BALL; SCULPTURE, PAKISTANI “BELLA FI” ONYX AND STAINLESS STEEL; PEDESTAL (58 X 44 X 24 CM), MACEDONIAN MARBLE, STAINLESS STEEL, WOOD, ACRYLIC LACQUER, STEEL, NYLON AND PLASTIC
As she
celebrates
a decade at
the top of
her industry,
Canadian
supermodel,
entrepreneur
and aspiring
actor Winnie
Harlow steps
into a new era.
By SUMIKO WILSON
Photographers CARLOS + ALYSE
Creative director OLIVIA LEBLANC
Stylist JACLYN BONAVOTA
DRESS (KIM SHUI AT SSENSE),
BRA (MAISON MARGIELA AT
SSENSE), GLOVES (ISA BOULDER
AT SSENSE) AND NECKLACE
(TIFFANY & CO.)
W
INNIE HARLOW DOESN’T SET NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS. It’s a
practice she has intentionally abstained from. At the end of
each year, she’d always notice that her aspirations paled in
comparison to what she actually achieved. “It was almost as
if some of the things I got I couldn’t even have dreamt of,”
she says.
Since making her debut as the world’s first model with the
skin condition vitiligo 10 years ago, she has made a habit of
exceeding expectations. In fact, she didn’t initially plan on
being a model at all. But it’s not by happenstance—when she
struts into Bistrot Leo in New York’s SoHo neighbourhood on a
balmy October afternoon, it’s impossible to see her as anything
else. Arriving sans entourage and without a shred of makeup,
she wields an unspoken power that commands attention. Her
arrival brings forth an inaudible whoosh as diners’ heads swivel
to clock her presence as she settles onto a banquette.
“I don’t know if the idea of being a model actually
appealed to me prior to [becoming one],” she says.
“I wanted to be a journalist.” Before Chantelle Brown-
Young, the Mississauga, Ont., native who worked in retail,
became Winnie Harlow, the barrier-breaking icon, the
industry didn’t consider her a contender. Over the years, she
has often told the story of how a modelling agent dismissed
her by saying that if she wanted to be part of the fashion
world, she should instead try to be a makeup artist.
Harlow’s moniker—a combination of homages to
Winnie the Pooh and Jean Harlow, the emblematic 1930s
leading lady—originated as a username on Facebook when
she was a teen. And since it was her social-media handle,
she has technically gone by “Winnie” since the end of
high school. Personally, I can recall when her alias began
appearing on my own Facebook timeline long before she
was making headlines. Having grown up attending the
same church as Harlow and being just a few years younger
than her, I can vividly remember seeing her as a tween and
then as a teenager. When we meet again for this interview in
New York City all these years later, she doesn’t fully register
the connection. Then, in an instant, she does. “You were so
cute,” she recalls. “You always had cute cheeks.”
Decades ago, we were part of the same small Pentecostal
congregation in Malton, Ont. Sunday after Sunday, I’d see
her in a pew with her younger sister and her mom. When
the preachers were long-winded, as they often were, I’d
BLAZER, PANTS AND BELT
(LOUIS VUITTON), SHOES
notice her retreating to the church’s carpeted staircase with
(GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI),
EARRINGS (ELSA PERETTI AT
TIFFANY & CO.) AND RINGS
(TIFFANY & CO.) ELLECANADA.COM 87
CELEBRITY
friends, giggling and taking photos. Even when I was in honours Canadian change makers leading the way. In a
elementary school and she was a preteen, it was evident that release, the UN praised Harlow for “shattering norms” in
she exuded an indelible sense of self-assurance. The last time fashion and advocating for diversity.
I saw her, more than 12 years ago, my mother and I were on While Harlow is proud of what her career has come to
an eastbound subway and caught her as she was leaving the represent, the idea of being a role model was initially a lot to
Toronto Eaton Centre excitedly toting an Aritzia bag. On manage. “I’m not here to raise anyone’s kids—I’m here as
the train, she shared that she had purchased a winter jacket. a child who turned into a teenager and then turned into an
Just a few years later, she was on an ad at that same station. adult in front of people,” she tells me. “That doesn’t mean
When we were children, in the era of the homogeniz- that I’m not supposed to make mistakes.” As is often true for
ing “Prada effect” and “Nothing tastes as good as skinny those who shoulder the labels of “first” or “only” in a space,
feels,” my own imagination couldn’t conceive of a modelling small missteps have overwhelming ramifications. Instead
industry that held up the girl I knew from church as one of of actions reflecting on an individual, they tend to represent
its most recognizable faces. As years passed, I admired her a group at large. Harlow made it a point to “release” this
ascent from afar: She grew an Instagram following, was cast pressure during the early stages of her career. “I started just
on America’s Next Top Model and then courted the attention being like: ‘You know what? I’m gonna fuck up. It is what it
of famed photographer Nick Knight, who shot her for a is.’” Now, as she approaches a new decade (she’ll celebrate
Diesel campaign that altered her trajectory. Since then, her 30th birthday in July), her stance is shifting. “I’m older
whether she’s gracing runways for Christian Cowan or red now and it’s okay to take on more—that’s fine. But in the
carpets for Vogue World, designing athleisure collections growing stages, I kind of released the responsibility.” The
for Puma, posing with Kim Jones and Naomi Campbell at priority, she says, was showing herself grace.
Fashion Week or taking part in what was once considered Without it, being positioned as a symbol of self-esteem
“Fashion’s Sexiest Night,” the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show can prove deeply dehumanizing. First, such platforms tend
(most recently, she returned to the brand’s runway in the to have insidious, insulting undertones. When self-love is
globe-trotting showcase dubbed “The Tour”), Harlow’s very framed as an accomplishment for specific groups of people
presence has been viewed as a harbinger of a more inclusive or a feat of bravery, it subtly implies that qualities that deviate
industry. And her impact is unequivocal. As part of a class from certain beauty norms aren’t inherently worthy of love.
SLEEPING HERMAPHRODITE (2008-2017) BY BARRY X BALL; SCULPTURE, TRANSLUCENT PINK IRANIAN ONYX; BASE (47 X 173 X 91 CM), GREEK THASSOS MARBLE AND STAINLESS STEEL
of models believed to be the “super” resurgence (with peers In short, being told “If you can love yourself, anyone can love
like Kendall Jenner and the Hadid sisters), her celebrity is themselves” isn’t quite complimentary. Plus, being framed
imbued with a distinct weight that sets her apart from some in such a lens leaves little room for faltering. Last year, on a
of her contemporaries. It means something. It says something. Revolt panel hosted by Michelle Obama, Harlow said: “My
It creates opportunities and dismantles the exclusionary least favourite question when people interview me is ‘How are
systems that have existed for longer than she’s been alive. you so confident?’ Like, what? For being myself? For living in
After years of working with Harlow, designer Jeremy my own skin, I’m brave? Are you telling me I shouldn’t be?”
Scott believes that her position in the industry will encourage While she understands the fascination with her skin, her
people to expand their notion of beauty. “Nothing is more story is multi-faceted, and she refuses to be boxed in. “When it
beautiful than diversity,” he says. Once Scott saw Knight’s comes to my career, I feel like a lot of people want to talk about
first photos of Harlow, he knew that he wanted to work with my skin, but there are so many other things in life that you
her. When they finally met in February 2018 at a New York deal with other than the one thing that you were bullied for in
Fashion Week afterparty for one of his shows, they instantly high school,” says Harlow. Her journey with her skin has been
clicked. “She was wearing a look from my collection and was a source of strength—it also sparked the idea for her suncare
so radiantly beautiful, and she oozed warmth and kindness line, Cay Skin. When she launched the brand in 2022 with just
to boot,” the former Moschino creative director recalls. Since a few core SPF-forward products, including a face lotion, a lip
then, Harlow has walked in Moschino shows, and she starred balm and a body oil, she shared that a serious sunburn inspired
in a lookbook for the brand’s 2021 pre-fall collection. “I’ve her to venture into the suncare sphere. While on a shoot in
championed unique beauties since the start of my career— the Caribbean in 2018, she was wary of reapplying sunscreen
with Devon Aoki, then Sophie Dahl—and Winnie is part of because she feared that its undesirable white cast would show
this lineage [of models who] can break the mould of what the up in the photos. Ultimately, the burn permanently altered the
current beauty standard is and expand it for a new genera- look of her vitiligo. Promising sheer sun coverage and a head-
tion.” Together, the pair coached emerging talent when they to-toe glow, Cay Skin’s selection has since expanded to include
appeared as judges on the second season of Amazon’s fashion sun-safe and vegan essentials for the face, the lips and the body,
competition series Making the Cut. all of which are enriched with ingredients inspired by Harlow’s
“Winnie’s undeniable beauty coupled with her visible Jamaican roots, from sea moss to aloe vera.
vitiligo makes her such a modern-day beauty icon,” raves The line launched in an era when celebrities were creating
Scott. “[She has] that rare, special, unique combination skincare brands at breakneck speed. But Harlow’s experience
[along] with [an] out-of-this-world personality, and she gives Cay Skin a unique sense of purpose. Still, she’s aware
really knows how to model.” And this past August, the of the critique. “I’ve seen people [say], ‘Oh, yeah, it’s a cash
United Nations Association in Canada also recognized grab—she’s just trying to do something to make money,’” she
Harlow’s impact on the industry and announced that she says. “But I actually have a story when it comes to skin and
would receive the 2023 Global Citizen Award, a prize that SPF specifically. When I created Cay Skin, I wanted it to be
88 ELLECANADA.COM
CELEBRITY
90 ELLECANADA.COM
COAT, TEXTURED BRA AND JEANS (NENSI DOJAKA), BRA (ARAKS) AND BRACELETS AND EARRINGS (TIFFANY & CO.)
CELEBRITY
something that was true to me.” When news of the line became top floor of the Moxy hotel, sipping espresso martinis and
public, Harlow was praised for joining a short list of women swaying to “fukumean” by Gunna. Harlow has shed her off-
of colour who’d received over US$1 million of venture-capital duty-model style and is now in a hand-beaded PatBO denim
funding. In total, she raised US$4.1 million to launch the ensemble. Glints of shimmering blue jewels on her bralette
brand. Before embarking on this journey, she admits, she didn’t dance in the light as she poses for photo ops in front of the DJ
even know what “VC” stands for. Today, Cay Skin is available booth and behind the bar, shaking cocktails.
at Sephora locations across the U.S. and Canada. “We should FaceTime my family,” she says. She calls
As Harlow mulls over my questions, her posture remains her younger sister, Christina, then her mother, Lisa. As we
arrow-straight and her sheer white turtleneck stands out regale them both with the tale of our meeting earlier that
against the restaurant’s leafy green wallpaper, drawing day, almost yelling over the music blaring from the Highlight
attention upward to her hair. Though she has gone between Room, I hear someone on the line call her name: Chantelle.
sleek waist-length bussdowns, bronde waves, faux locs and Her mother, says Harlow, alternates between “Winnie”
occasional pops of colour over the years, she recently cut it and her given name. She now mostly goes by “Winnie”
into a pixie. It’s not her first big chop (she debuted a shorter in her personal and professional life. “If I talk to someone
’do in 2016), but the introspection and intention behind her close to me [frequently] enough, they call me Winnie,” she
latest look are indicative of a major shift: Despite taking explains, “but if I haven’t spoken to someone in a long time,
beauty standards to task over the course of her career, she they call me Chantelle.” She answers to both but is more
has subconsciously upheld one for herself. “Getting older, likely to answer to “Winnie” in a public setting. There are
SICKMAN AT THE HOSPITAL (2013-2023, WORK IN PROGRESS) BY BARRY X BALL; SCULPTURE (274 X 132 X 132 CM), TRANSLUCENT “WOUNDED” MEXICAN ONYX, 24-KARAT-GOLD-PLATED STEEL AND ALUMINUM AND STAINLESS STEEL
I realized how much pride I had in my hair,” she reflects. still distinctions between the two. “I feel like maybe my
When she revealed the style in August, it was curly and insecurities come from Chantelle and Winnie doesn’t have
coiffed. Today, her cropped cut is sleek and straight with tiny any.” She stipulates that they’re very much in sync and
curls flitting throughout to add dimension; it’s giving early- Winnie is not a persona but a nickname. “I’ve grown up
aughts, Die Another Day-era Halle Berry. “I wanted a fresh and grown into Winnie—that is really who I am,” she says.
start. I’ve been short before but with wigs. I did like it, but “There’s a name for what I’ve done and [who I’ve] become.”
I’ve always had a [desire] for long hair,” she explains. She tells As we part ways, she tells me that she’s heading back
me a story from her childhood, when she wrapped a towel home to Los Angeles, where she moved mid-pandemic. Since
around her head and pretended that it was her own hair, relocating from New York to California, she’s been taking
playfully making it flow in the wind. “Long hair has always acting lessons in preparation for the next step she wants to take
been something that I held [up] as beauty.” in her career. (She recently made a cameo in Netflix film The
It appears that part of accepting the responsibility of her Perfect Find starring Gabrielle Union.) Back in 2020, she read
mantle is viewing her relationship to beauty through a micro- for a role in a British zombie horror-comedy called The Loneliest
scopic lens—and questioning her own perception of beauty. Boy in the World and ultimately passed on it but has conflicting
For Black women, in particular, this can have a more serious thoughts about how it went down. At the time, strict lockdown
tenor. Historically, Black women have been inundated with regulations would have required her to quarantine in the U.K.
messaging that suggests that they’re incapable of growing for two months. However, she had just begun a relationship
long hair or invalidates their curls if they grow outward with NBA star Kyle Kuzma and didn’t feel comfortable being
in intricate coils versus cascading down their backs. Long away for such a long time. “I don’t know if I’m disappointed
hair can be an ideal that beckons to a more conventional, that I didn’t take it because I’m happy I didn’t at the time,” she
Eurocentric beauty standard. It’s not just hair. tells me. The film was released in 2022, but she’s apprehensive
For this reason, her cut was significant. “If I’m supposed about seeing it. “I’m going to watch it and think ‘I would have
to be this person who, like you said, is a beacon of confi- killed that,’” she says with a sigh.
dence and I rely so heavily on something that I feel is part I don’t get the impression that she spends too much time
of the epitome of beauty, I need to be able to release that looking back, though. She has her sights set on the movie
to truly feel beautiful. I don’t need long hair, even though industry and is channelling her energy into what’s to come.
from a young age it was something I loved.” Though she’s While she no longer makes resolutions, she understands the
not opposed to occasionally switching it up with wigs (it was power of setting intentions. Two years in a row, she wrote
even her idea to sport a long style for our cover shoot), she that she wanted to work with Beyoncé and then appeared
realizes that hair can be something that’s interchangeable in the music video for “Freedom” in 2016. “Even though
and can be switched up to enhance different looks. “When it wasn’t something that I pursued—[Beyoncé] pursued
I’m wearing a certain outfit, I might want long black hair, or me—it was still a manifestation and a prayer that I had
if I’m in Miami, I might want to be beachy, blond and curly put out into the world and to God.” For the year ahead,
or something. It’s a beautiful accessory, but it’s not necessary she’s focusing on Cay Skin and her new love: acting. “I am
for beauty.” manifesting more growth and success with Cay Skin, and
As our conversation wraps, I learn that after our meeting, I’m manifesting working on a big film,” she tells me. But
Harlow is off to get ready for an event with SKYY Vodka. modelling will never be far behind. “I’ll make time for cov-
As an ambassador for the brand, she’s in NYC for just 24 ers,” she says with a laugh. “Seeing myself on a cover always
hours to celebrate the launch of its new espresso-infused spirit. reminds me that there’s going to be a little girl who feels like
“You should come,” she says earnestly. I initially dismiss the I did and will look at that and feel seen. I wish I’d had that
invitation as a pleasantry, but six hours later we are on the when I was younger.”
92 ELLECANADA.COM
CELEBRITY
TOP (PH5), SHORTS (JACQUEMUS),
SOCKS (STYLIST’S OWN), SHOES
(JACQUEMUS) AND BRACELETS
(TIFFANY & CO.)
ELLECANADA.COM 93
TOP, SHORTS, BELT AND BRIEFS
(MIU MIU) AND CHAIN-MAIL BRA
(ELSA PERETTI AT TIFFANY & CO.)
OPPOSITE PAGE:
DRESS (BINYA AT SSENSE), CORSET
(KNWLS AT SSENSE) AND NECKLACE
(TIFFANY & CO.)
ELLECANADA.COM
95
CELEBRITY
LIGHT
AND
SHADE
WITH ITS COLOURFUL, DRAMATIC
AND TONAL ELEGANCE, THIS SEASON
CELEBRATES THE TWO POLES OF GLAMOUR.
PHOTOGRAPHER RONAN MCKENZIE
STYLIST TESS HERBERT
HOLIDAY
GIFT GUIDE
This season, we wanted to try to be more
thoughtful with our gifting choices. With a
less-is-more attitude and a focus on items that
are personal and timeless and, above all, bring
a little bit of joy, here are some festive ideas
for those we hold near and dear and, most
importantly, those we are lucky enough to
be celebrating with this year.
By MAROUCHKA FRANJULIEN
PERSONALIZED
LUGGAGE TAG,
PARAVEL ($82,
TOURPARAVEL.COM)
PERSONALIZED BACKPACK,
FJÄLLRÄVEN ($170, FJALLRAVEN.COM) PERSONAL
TOUCH
MONOGRAMMED
PAJAMA SET, KIP ($240,
SLEEPINKIP.COM)
106 ELLECANADA.COM
GIFT GUIDE
HEART KEYCHAIN,
COREY MORANIS ($105,
COREYMORANIS.COM)
BFFS
WINE CLUB: A MONTHLY GUIDE TO
SWIRLING, SIPPING, AND PAIRING WITH
FRIENDS BY MAUREEN PETROSKY
($42, AMAZON.CA)
TUMBLER, KINTO
($54, KINTO-CANADA.CA)
SPLITTABLE HEART
DANGLE CHARM,
PANDORA ($80,
CA.PANDORA.NET)
ELLECANADA.COM 107
BRACELET,
CHOPARD
($5,750,
CHOPARD.COM)
LOEWE OREGANO
LIQUID SOAP ($108,
PERFUMESLOEWE.COM)
TIMELESS
LUXURY
Pieces that are sure to be treasured
and very much appreciated.
SANDALS, GUCCI
($1,610, GUCCI.COM)
RING, MESSIKA
($4,340,
MAISONBIRKS.COM)
108 ELLECANADA.COM
GIFT GUIDE
COAT, MAX MARA
($5,190, CA.MAXMARA.COM)
GUERLAIN BEE
BOTTLE
(FROM $171,
HOLTRENFREW.COM)
ELLECANADA.COM 109
CANDLE, HOPSON GRACE ($88,
HOPSONGRACE.COM)
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SANDALS DUNN’S RIVER RESORT
OCHO RIOS
From the moment I arrived at the new Sandals Dunn’s River
Resort (which opened in May) and was warmly greeted by the
staff, I knew my every need would be taken care of during my
stay. Located just outside Ocho Rios, this luxurious adults-only
There is so much to discover in and around all-inclusive is a little slice of paradise. The resort offers several
this port town on Jamaica’s north shore. different room types to cater to all kinds of budgets, and I stayed
in one of the Skypool Suites, which boast a private balcony
By JOANNA FOX pool overlooking the beach, butler service, a stocked bar and
all the amenities you could ask for during a worry-free vacay.
TRAVEL TO THE MIDDLE OF JAMAICA’S northern coast and you’ll As lovely as all the suite features are, it’s the beach—with
find OCHO RIOS, the island’s stunning “adventure capital.” its soft white sand and clear turquoise waters—that’s the true
The town is about a two-and-a-half-hour drive from both showstopper. If the open sea is not for you, head to one of the
Montego Bay and Kingston and just a 10-minute drive from resort’s five spacious pools to cool off as the afternoon heat sets
Ian Fleming International Airport—named after the creator in. And once you’ve worked up an appetite, there’s no shortage
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF SANDALS DUNN’S RIVER
of the James Bond series, who fell in love with the area and of options for eating and drinking thanks to the 12 on-site res-
penned his famous books here. Today, Ocho Rios is one of taurants, which are open throughout the day and night, plus a
Jamaica’s most popular tourist destinations, drawing visitors number of bars where you can grab a thirst-quenching drink.
from all over the world to experience its many natural wonders For adventurous types who want to paddle, snorkel, sail or
(including Dunn’s River and Island Gully Falls), beautiful water-ski their way along the coastline, there are many friendly
beaches, award-winning resorts and unparalleled local cuisine. qualified staff members who can offer expertise. And if a spa
This past summer, I was invited to spend a few days exploring day is more your speed, the resort’s chic RED LANE SPA will
the mountainous area with SANDALS DUNN’S RIVER RESORT and melt any tension away with its exclusive massage therapies,
the JAMAICA TOURIST BOARD, so I got to discover what makes facials and specialty treatments designed to scrub, smooth
this region so special. and tighten. SANDALS.COM/DUNNSRIVER
118 ELLECANADA.COM
TRAVEL
FALLS JUMPING
Though lounging around a resort is the per-
fect way to unwind, there is so much more to
explore beyond the property. Get your adrenalin
pumping at the absolutely gorgeous—and a bit
intimidating—ISLAND GULLY FALLS, a group of
bright-blue mineral pools, streams and rushing
waterfalls that are a 20-minute drive up into the
mountains. Clad in water shoes and a life jacket, I
was led by a skilful guide along the lush cliffs as we
jumped in and across the water pools. The whole
experience—including one very high jump and
swinging into the river on a Tarzan rope—was
exhilarating. ISLANDGULLYFALL.COM
of cooking in which the main ingredient—typically chicken, surrounded by a pristine landscaped garden. Venture upstairs
pork or goat—is coated in seasoning that includes allspice and and you’ll find their boutique, ISLAND MAGNOLIA, for which
Scotch bonnet peppers and then slow-cooked on a grill over they’ve curated some of the most exquisite Caribbean- and Latin
green pimento wood. There are also the essential sides: festival American-sourced clothing, accessories and home decor, all
(a sweet fried dough), roast breadfruit (a starch-rich fruit that’s with a focus on quality and slow fashion. On the main floor is
like a cross between bread and potatoes) and rice and peas. I’m SUMMERHOUSE, a restaurant that offers contemporary reinter-
a huge fan of jerk, and there is no comparison to having it here, pretations of Caribbean classics with fresh seasonal and local
where the entire meal, washed down with an ice-cold Red Stripe ingredients. Seated in the space’s covered patio, I enjoyed a meal
beer, was smoky, spicy and out of this world. @SCOTCHIESJAMAICA that included curried-ackee wontons, kale salad with quinoa,
Another Jamaican favourite is the patty, a baked half-moon local mango and feta, East Indian chicken skewers with green
suet-dough pie filled with seasoned ground meat. It’s a perfect and red curries and lobster frites. The sisters are well known in
hand-held snack to eat on the go, and there are several famous Jamaica, both for their previous retail, hospitality and lifestyle
Jamaican brands, including Juici, Mother’s and Tastee. Everyone establishments and for their love of food and cooking—they
seems to have their favourite, but I opted for TASTEE’s beef and have two internationally bestselling cookbooks and even a
jerk-chicken versions. Packed with flavour and the perfect television show. Their unique perspective on Jamaican life,
amount of spicy filling and encased in a flaky and soft but culture and hospitality celebrates the diversity and artistry of
ever-so-crisp pastry, these patties were perfection. TASTEEJAMAICA.COM their country. SUMMERHOUSEJA.COM
ELLECANADA.COM 119
48 Hours in
LOS ANGELES
A must-see guide to the city’s coastal west side.
By RANDI BERGMAN
STAY
THE GEORGIAN Steps from the kitschy Santa Monica
Pier stands The Georgian, a landmark art-deco hotel
that originally opened in 1933, once hosted the likes
of Marilyn Monroe and Charlie Chaplin and has
recently been restored to its 1930s glory. Its turquoise
facade is a preview of the kind of flourishes you’ll find
inside, from a golden U-shaped lobby bar flanked by
flamingo-feathered sculptures to the 84 retro-beachy
rooms and suites. With details like bellhops wearing
seafoam-green caps and a lobby phone that plays a
conversation between guests who stayed there in the
1930s, it seems the designers might have taken a page
from Wes Anderson. Summon bubbles, Prohibition-
PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE GEORGIAN, EAMES OFFICE, BAR COUCOU & LCD
120 ELLECANADA.COM
TRAVEL
DO
EAMES HOUSE This mid-century landmark is hiding in plain
sight in Pacific Palisades, an affluent neighbourhood just a
short drive from Santa Monica. Designed and constructed
in 1949 by famed husband-and-wife duo Charles and Ray
Eames, the house is an homage to the geometric, gridlike de
Stijl style, with swaths of primary colours painted on its sliding
walls and windows and a now ubiquitous open-concept floor
plan. (Viewings are available by reservation only, so make sure
you book your tour ahead of time.) EAMESFOUNDATION.ORG
SHOP
SURFING COWBOYS Strip malls in L.A. are packed with gems,
including this vintage and collectibles shop in Malibu Country
Mart, an outdoor shopping centre set against the backdrop of
the Santa Monica mountains. The shop showcases Americana
at its finest, from rare concert T-shirts (think Fleetwood Mac
and Tammy Wynette) to surfboards from the ’60s and ’70s.
There’s something here for both surfing enthusiasts and those
who’ve only watched Blue Crush once. SURFINGCOWBOYS.COM
CANADA HAS LONG BEEN KNOWN for its icewine production and varietals like
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. But from British Columbia to Nova Scotia,
more and more wineries have been adding a delightful surprise to their repertoires:
world-class bubbly. In fact, of the 600-plus cool-climate wineries dotted across the
country, about 200 are now producing sparkling wine—and they’re making a mark.
In a class with top producers from across the globe, Canadian makers earned 31
medals at this year’s prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards in London, England.
It’s clear, then, that there has never been a better time to stock up on local bubbles.
Besides our short growing season, which is a must for preserving that all-important
natural acidity, the eclectic microclimates and shape-shifting soils across the country
are what make each terroir-driven expression unique. Whether for Christmas parties,
family movie nights, impromptu gatherings or major celebrations, these Canadian
sparklers have you covered.
exception. From its complex nose, which in the glass, this 2019 Pinot Meunier,
keeps luring you back to the glass, to its Chardonnay and Pinot Noir rosé has
crisp Spartan-apple flavours, lush mousse zippy East Coast-apple aromas and
(froth lining the rim of the glass) and off-dry red-berry undertones. Hints of orange
finish, everything sparks conversation. It blossom, strawberry and white flowers
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TAWSEWINERY.CA saline finish. BENJAMINBRIDGE.COM
122 ELLECANADA.COM
LIFESTYLE
ELLECANADA.COM 123
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FOOD
FAN
Meet Margaux Verdier, a
Canadian content creator
who wants to share her love of
dairy-free plant-based dishes.
By JOANNA FOX
been 16, and it was my go-to when I hosted dinners for friends.” “Always have fresh herbs on hand. Don’t be afraid to try new reci-
What are the ingredients or food items you can’t live without? pes and new ingredient combinations. Get yourself a good knife
“Definitely a spicy sauce—either sambal oelek or sriracha—fresh and a good pan—they’ll make life a lot easier. Don’t be shy with
basil, lime and a bunch of spices. Oh, and, of course, dill pickles. spices. And, finally, cook with friends. It’s way more fun, and you
I’m obsessed with them.” get free help with the dishes.”
ELLECANADA.COM 125
ASTROLOGY
Holiday
Horoscope Special
Gift ideas for that special sign in your life.
By VANESSA DL
either financially or physically. This period you take on. Remember that you have uncertain. Don’t forget to rely on your
of reflection will help you create space the right—but also a responsibility—to network during these difficult times.
in your life to welcome the unexpected change your approach to ensure that Watch for chance encounters at the
more fluidly while focusing on your true your actions are true to your core values. beginning of the new year; you might
desires and priorities. be surprised by what comes your way.
In the meantime, try to refocus.
126 ELLECANADA.COM
PISCES GEMINI VIRGO
FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20 MAY 21 – JUNE 20 AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22
There are changes for you on Review the projects and relationships Let your imagination run wild. It’s more
the horizon—some of them quite in your life, keeping in mind the time, important to listen to your emotions and
unpredictable. To prepare, reassess energy and resources you’ve put into needs right now than to force something
your aspirations and how you want them. If necessary, discuss them with to happen prematurely. Honour this
to be involved in your community. your partners—in life and in love—to expressive period by giving yourself the
The universe is encouraging you to redefine your common vision. Your goal space you need to flourish organically
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ELLECANADA.COM 127
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FINALE
GLOWING
TRIBUTE
AFTER JEAN PAUL GAULTIER took his final bow on the runway in 2020, he began
inviting guest designers to draw up collections for his namesake label. It wasn’t long
before the shows became a highlight of Haute Couture Week, and the fall/winter
2023/2024 iteration was perhaps the most anticipated yet. In a presentation held
at Gaultier’s Parisian headquarters, a reverential Julien Dossena paid tribute to the
French master with a dazzling procession of designs that drew from the house’s ’90s
TEXT, ESTELLE GERVAIS; PHOTOGRAPHY, LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
archives and its ability to harness the power of femininity. The Rabanne creative
director nodded to some of the couturier’s most fabled codes—sailor stripes, rock ’n’
roll leather, grunge plaid, nipped corsets, printed mesh—while ushering each look
into a new era of modernity. A sleek leather pencil skirt was paired with a romantic
sheer-silk top with a playful feathered collar; a mohair sweater’s stripes were almost
engulfed by its texture; and the iconic cone bustier was complemented by a Rabanne-
esque chain-mail train skirt. Closing the show was French supermodel and long-time
Gaultier muse Laetitia Casta, who looked fittingly regal in a bejewelled crown and
mulberry velvet gown. It was a full-circle moment, as Casta’s first-ever catwalk was for
the brand back in 1993. The fashion world adored the homage, collectively lauding
Dossena for his respectful reinterpretation. But perhaps the most significant praise
of all came from Gaultier himself, who, while sitting front row and taking in the
pieces for the very first time, wore the best look of the show: a smile of approval.
130 ELLECANADA.COM
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