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REVIEWED: DALMUNACH | THE GLENTURRET | WESTLAND

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EDITOR’S WORD
BETHANY WHYMARK

UNDER THE INFLUENCE


Can any composition be truly unique?

W
hat’s the strongest ‘Overcoming the Monster’ (I’m sure symphonic poems in the 19th century,
emotional reaction that a you’re already thinking of examples to the cross-genre work of present-day
whisky has elicited from –‘ϐ‹–‡ƒ Š‘ˆ–Š‡•‡ȌǤ ˆ‹–‹•’‘••‹„Ž‡ American composer John Adams.
you? It could simply be a contented through critical analysis to boil the We’ve posited that ‘unique’ art, made
sigh as you relax into a chair with your ‡•–‡”Ž‹–‡”ƒ”›ƒ† ‹‡ƒ–‹ ϐ‹ –‹‘ƒŽ in an emotional and psychological
favourite dram. Perhaps you err on the canons down to, essentially, the same vacuum, is likely a red herring. But
side of excitement, letting loose a cheer seven stories, can we really argue there generally it is not the uniqueness of a
or delighted squeal or smacking the is ‘uniqueness’ in this artform? But in piece of art that we value. It is the way
table upon tasting a particularly special its defence, given that humans have it makes us feel: the ineffable beauty,
liquid. You may even have shed a tear fundamentally similar drives, emotions, horror, or wonder it possesses and the
over a whisky, either for the beauty of and reactions to their environment, it’s response that elicits.
the spirit itself or a beautiful memory perhaps unsurprising that most people Most would readily acknowledge
ƒˆϐ‹š‡†–‘‹–• ‘•—’–‹‘Ǥ who have ever put pen to paper ended the role of creativity in producing
Stripping our appreciation of whisky whisky. Like a symphonic composition,
it requires an intimate understanding
back to its bare bones, it seems we seek
similar qualities in it that we do from
It is not the uniqueness of each component part, what it brings
any other original composition (which, of a piece of art that we to the table, and how it can enhance or
„›‹–•„”‘ƒ†‡•–†‡ϐ‹‹–‹‘ǡŒ—•–‡ƒ•Dzƒ value. It is the way it temper other elements. When we nose
creative work”). and sip a whisky, be it a new discovery
That concept of originality is makes us feel... or an old favourite, we are searching
worth dissecting. Most works of art, for the individual layers and nuances
be it musical, visual, or consumable, up on one of these seven tracks. that were carefully mapped by the
are ‘original’ (i.e. they are a single, As well as this ‘nature’ dynamic, distillers and blenders that produced it.
unrepeated entity), but to create ‹ϐŽ—‡ ‡Šƒ•ƒǮ—”–—”‡ǯ‡Ž‡‡––‘‘Ǥ ˆ Ironically, it is the science of whisky
something unique – the content of you wish to hone a skill, or a discover making that brings greater potential
which bears no relation to anything more about an interest, it follows for creative originality: putting the
previously created or currently that you would look to others in that same spirit from the same distillation
existing – is a different ball game. ϐ‹‡Ž†–‘„”‘ƒ†‡›‘—”‘™Ž‡†‰‡Ǥ•ƒ run into two identically produced
I’d go so far as to say that the whole musician, I’ll use a musical example: casks from the same cooperage on the
concept of ‘uniqueness’ in art is a bit Ludwig van Beethoven, while a globally same day and ageing them next to each
of a misnomer; no artist operates in a revered composer in his own right, other for the same amount of time is
˜ƒ ——ǡˆ”‡‡ˆ”‘‹ϐŽ—‡ ‡ȋƒ† ǯ† ™ƒ•‹ϐŽ—‡ ‡†‹Š‹•‡ƒ”Ž›™‘”ȋŠ‹• no guarantee of consistency. You will
grill anyone who tried to claim that). Ǯ ‹”•–‡”‹‘†ǯ‘ˆƒ†‡ϐ‹‡†–Š”‡‡Ȍ„›Š‹• still end up with two spirits that are
In his bestselling book The Seven contemporaries Wolfgang Amadeus unique in the proper sense: inimitable
Basic Plots: Why We Tell Stories, British Mozart and Joseph Haydn, as well as ‘„‹ƒ–‹‘•‘ˆƒ”‘ƒ–‹ ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”
Œ‘—”ƒŽ‹•–ƒ†ƒ—–Š‘”Š”‹•–‘’Š‡” OG pianoman J.S. Bach and his seminal ‘’‘—†•™‹–Š–Š‡‹”‘™•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ 
Booker expounded and examined Baroque-era work The Well-Tempered Ž‡˜‡Žƒ†ƒ–—”‡‘ˆ ƒ•‹ϐŽ—‡ ‡Ǥ
a theory that there are only seven Clavier. In turn, Beethoven has inspired It’s easy to be cynical about the
ƒ””ƒ–‹˜‡•–”— –—”‡•–Šƒ–‡š‹•–‹ϐ‹ –‹‘Ǥ composers across a range of musical concept of uniqueness, but with
These include ‘Rags to Riches’, ‘Voyage disciplines – from the expansive operas whisky, we have a good benchmark for
and Return’, ‘Rebirth’, ‘Tragedy’, and of Richard Wagner and Franz Liszt’s the magnitude of that descriptor.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 3


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36
SUBSCRIPTIONS AND NEWSAGENT COPIES Cover image: A selection of World’s Best title winners from
(excl. North America) the World Whiskies Awards 2023.
Whisky Magazine 190, April issue.
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42

ON T
12 COVEHRE
PAGE 8
4

In this issue...
07 Whisky Live 42 Interview: Drew Mayville
The latest news about the world’s Sazerac’s master blender shares his
premier whisky festival whisky-making lessons
08 One to watch 48 Play it again
Liza examines whisky’s recent media How music can change and enhance
appearances our whisky experiences
10 The wooden age 54 The art of perspective
Chris on the history of wooden Inside photographer Ernie Button’s
84 Awards introduction & contents
distilling vessels new whisky-focused project
86 Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame
12 Elevating the artform 58 Bar focus: Eddie’s Klub
Jason goes in search of whisky’s Discover the venue considered 89 Icons of Whisky: America, India,
creative ‘auteurs’ 3RUWXJDO·VÀUVWVSHFLDOLVWZKLVN\EDU and Rest of World
&HOHEUDWLQJHDFKUHJLRQ·VÀQHVW
20 Regional focus: Texas 64 Altered states
people and places
The Lone Star State’s whiskey scene Where whisky and the psychology of
is coming of age creativity meet 92 Icons of Whisky: Global
Which of our regional winners
30 Interview: Emily Chappell 70 Tastings
have triumphed?
Millie meets the illustrator behind Christopher and Bethany sample the
That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s latest batch of new releases 98 World Whiskies Awards 2023
label designs Design winners
80 Travel retail
36 In search of a spark Marking Lunar New Year in 2023 100 World Whiskies Awards 2023
Kristiane asks: what are the secrets Taste winners
82 Caskaway
to a successful creative partnership We send Compass Box founder John
in whisky? Glaser to our desert island
EDITOR-AT-LARGE
CHRISTOPHER COATES

A CULTURE OF CREATIVITY
3DUWQHUVKLSVZLWKEURDGDSSHDOFDQEHQH¿WZKLVN\IDQVWRR

T
oday, whether in dive bars or cigars – and the importance of high- project, Luminary No.1 will help the
private members’ clubs, I’m visibility partnerships to the relevance programme to continue bearing fruit in
used to seeing whisky on the and status of Scotch whisky. more enthusiast-focused products such
lips of patrons from all walks of life, In a world where 1,000 distractions as the Whisky Works series and the
nearly everywhere I go. And yet, a per minute are competing for our new 18-year-old from Fettercairn.
recent trip to the 23rd Festival Del attention, this kind of creative Similarly, early distillery partners of
Habano brought home quite how endeavour with broad appeal is Web3 technology companies BlockBar
niche whisky, especially single malt, perhaps more critical than ever in and Amber Island have not only
remains today. In Cuba I met trade, order to cut through the noise and give brought whisky to an as-yet untapped
’”‡••ǡƒϐ‹ ‹‘ƒ†‘•ƒ† ‘ŽŽ‡ –‘”•ˆ”‘ newcomers a touchpoint that can help tech crowd but also helped those start-
across the globe, all united by a shared orient them in what can admittedly be ups lay the foundations of innovative
Ž‘˜‡‘ˆ ‹‰ƒ”•ƒ†–Š‡ϐ‹‡”–Š‹‰•‹ an overwhelming sea of distilleries, marketplaces and create new online
life. Though I did meet one loyal Whisky blenders and bottlings. Though communities for whisky lovers to
Magazine•—„• ”‹„‡”‘–Š‡ϐŽ‹‰Š––‘–Š‡ engage with.
I’ll admit I remain highly sceptical of
Caribbean and a few more throughout
the week, I was surprised by how few
I believe that this kind NFT projects based on the proposition
whisky drinkers were to be found of blue-sky thinking that the digital art itself has intrinsic
among the collected connoisseurs. will be as imperative as value (thankfully, this isn’t either
Almost all I spoke to showed company’s focus), but as a means of
enthusiasm upon learning I hailed production expertise buying, remotely storing, and easily
from the Scotch sphere, but most were trading bottles across borders I can
†‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›‹–Š‡‡ƒ”Ž›•–ƒ‰‡•‘ˆ–Š‡‹” traditionalists often roll their eyes at see huge potential – especially as both
whisky journeys. Serving as a reminder such partnerships, I believe that, when BlockBar and Amber Island are backed
of the power of Scotch whisky’s leading done well, these creative collaborations by trusted travel-retail businesses Duty
luxury marque, it was The Macallan’s ƒŠƒ˜‡„‡‡ϐ‹–•ˆ‘”’—”‹•–•ǡ–‘‘Ǥ Free Americas and Gebr. Heinemann,
recent James Bond 60th Anniversary For example, The Dalmore’s respectively. It’s early days, but I’m
Collection that I was asked about most Luminary No.1, which saw architect optimistic and can’t wait to see how
often. Hitherto, I’d paid little attention Kengo Kuma and his protégé work these projects will develop as they
to the collection, being somewhat put with master blenders Richard Paterson add more exclusive bottles to their
off by the lack of age statements and and Gregg Glass, not only produced a platforms, iron out the creases and
information about the liquid – though beautiful, high-end fusion of design expand their real-world delivery and
I had to admit the interactive Bond and distilling that attracted collectors experiential capabilities.
experience at Harrods looked like fun. of both art and whisky, but it also At a time when the Scotch whisky
Regardless, this valuable time spent helped support parent company Whyte category is facing substantial
outside my regular whisky circles & Mackay’s nascent Scottish Oak regulatory and economic threats at
really drove home how irrelevant Programme, as both the Collectible home and abroad, I believe that this
my gripes with the collection are to and Rare expressions incorporated kind of blue-sky thinking will be as
even discerning buyers – including casks built from wind-felled local imperative as production expertise and
those fully clued up on concepts timber. By creating a high-value environmental sustainability when it
such as terroir, blending, ageing, and proposition to support what is a costly comes to keeping the spirit we love
provenance by dint of their passion for and time-consuming cask-supply appealing for generations to come.

6 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Sponsored by Glencairn Crystal

GOING DOWN UNDER


Preparing for Whisky Live’s Australian shows
This year’s Whisky Live season in their favourite whiskies on the day.
Australia is about to begin, with six premier Alongside the exhibitors’ stalls, each show
tasting shows lined up in the country’s will host its own Rare and Old Bar, housing
major cities over the next six months. ƒ•‡Ž‡ –‹‘‘ˆϐ‹‡ǡ”ƒ”‡ƒ†‘–Š‡”™‹•‡Šƒ”†Ǧ
Starting in Melbourne in April, the Whisky –‘Ǧϐ‹†„‘––Ž‹‰•–Šƒ– ƒ„‡•ƒ’Ž‡†ˆ‘”ƒ
Live Australia calendar for 2023 will take in additional price. Rare and Old Bar vouchers
Canberra, Brisbane, Sydney, and Perth, before can also be purchased and redeemed at any
concluding in Adelaide in September. of the Whisky Live shows in Australia.
Ticket holders will have the chance to The dates for Whisky Live in Australia
sample a vast array of high-quality whiskies in 2023 are: Melbourne, 28–29 April;
and spirits from distilleries across the world Canberra, 26–27 May; Brisbane, 16–17
and sit in on expert-led classes focusing on June; Sydney, 22–23 July; Perth, 11–12
particular whiskies. Also included in the August; Adelaide, 22–23 September.
ticket price are a whisky glass to use while For more information on the individual
tasting, a printed guide with descriptions of shows, visit www.whiskylive.com.au.
all the whiskies available to sample, and an
assortment of food to graze on while tasting. Discover a Whisky Live event near you
Visitors will also be able to buy bottles of at www.drinks-live.com/worldwide.

Find out more at www.whiskylive.com


THOUGHTS FROM
LIZA WEISSTUCH

ONE TO WATCH
Whisky is capturing the attention of mainstream media

I
’ve been struck by a bout of in January in an effort to curb alcohol •–ƒ–‡‡–‹”‡ˆ‡”‡ ‡–‘–Š‡‘”‡Ǧ
disorientation lately. It started •ƒŽ‡•ƒ†ǡ‹–—”ǡ’”‘„Ž‡†”‹‹‰Ǥ —„‹“—‹–‘—•„‡‡”Ǥȋ ˆ›‘—†‹•ƒ‰”‡‡ƒ„‘—–
about a year into the pandemic, In a statement that will likely live ubiquity, ask yourself this: does anyone
but it really ramped up in early 2023. in infamy, she asserted: “Without †”‹ ‘– Š™Š‡ƒ––‡†‹‰ƒ•’‘”–•
It’s that same disorientation I’ve „”ƒ†‹‰ƒ†‘–Š‡”ƒ”‡–‹‰ ƒ– ŠǫȌ›‡“—ƒŽ‹•‹‰„‡‡”ǡ™‹‡ƒ†
experienced when a musician or actor •–”ƒ–‡‰‹‡•ǡƒŽ ‘Š‘Ž’”‘†— –•‹‡ƒ Š spirits, whether impulsively or with
ǯ˜‡ƒ†‘”‡†ǡ™Š‘ǯ•ƒ„‡Ž‘˜‡†ϐ‹‰—”‡ „‡˜‡”ƒ‰‡•—„Ǧ•‡ –‘”ƒ”‡‡••‡–‹ƒŽŽ› calculation, she announced the drink’s
ƒ‘‰†‡˜‘–‡†ˆƒ•„—–‹•’”‡––› ˜ƒ”‹ƒ–‹‘•‘ˆ–Š‡•ƒ‡–Š‹‰Ǥdz ’”‡˜ƒ‹Ž‹‰’‘’—Žƒ”‹–›Ǥ
much overlooked by the masses, has –ϐ‹”•–ǡ –Š‘—‰Š–•Š‡™ƒ• ‘ϐŽƒ–‹‰ –‹–•ƒ—ƒŽ‡ ‘‘‹ „”‹‡ϐ‹‰‹
his breakout moment. He has a role ƒŽŽ™Š‹•‹‡•ȂͶͷǦ›‡ƒ”Ǧ‘Ž†•‹‰Ž‡ƒŽ– February, the Distilled Spirits Council of
‹ƒ’‘’—Žƒ”ϐ‹Ž‘”Š‹•—•‹ ƒ’’‡ƒ”• Scotch, blended Scotch, Japanese, –Š‡‹–‡†–ƒ–‡•”‡˜‡ƒŽ‡†–Šƒ–ƒˆ–‡”ͳ͵
in a television advert and suddenly ‡”‹ ƒǡ ”‹•Šƒ†‡˜‡”›–Š‹‰‡Ž•‡ •–”ƒ‹‰Š–›‡ƒ”•‘ˆ‰ƒ‹‹‰ƒ”‡–•Šƒ”‡ǡ
‡˜‡”›‘‡‹•–ƒŽ‹‰ƒ„‘—–Š‹ǡƒ†Š‹• ƒŽ‹‡Ǥ—–‘ƒ Ž‘•‡””‡ƒ†ǡ‹–‰‘–™‘”•‡Ǥ spirits supplier revenues surpassed
‰‹”Žˆ”‹‡†ƒ†Š‹•–ƒ––‘‘ƒ†–Š‡‘—–ϐ‹– „‡‡”ˆ‘”–Š‡ϐ‹”•––‹‡Ǥ’‹”‹–••ƒŽ‡•
Ž‘ ‡†‹ƒ–ͶʹǤͳ’‡” ‡–‘ˆ–Š‡
he wore to an awards ceremony, etc.
Over the past few months, whisky –
By equalising beer, alcoholic drinks market, while beer
Scotch in particular – has been in the wine and spirits... she Š‡Ž†ƒ–ͶͳǤͻ’‡” ‡–Ǥ
news a lot. Like, a whole lot. Yes, I know announced the drink’s –—”‰‡‘ǯ•ƒ‘— ‡‡–‹•ǡ‘ˆ
‹–‹‰Š–•‘—†ƒ„•—”†–‘ ‘’ƒ”‡–Š‡ course, all smoke and mirrors. Even
™‹––‡” Šƒ––‡”ƒ†‡†‹ƒ ‘˜‡”ƒ‰‡ prevailing popularity ‹ˆ•‘‡‹†‘ˆ‡™”‡‰—Žƒ–‹‘™‡”‡
•—””‘—†‹‰ƒ ‡–—”‹‡•Ǧ‘Ž†Š‡”‹–ƒ‰‡Ǧ –‘Ž‹‹–ƒŽ ‘Š‘Žƒ†˜‡”–‹•‹‰ǡ‘‘‡
”ƒˆ–Ǧ–—”‡†Ǧ ‘”’‘”ƒ–‡ǦŒ—‰‰‡”ƒ—– ›”‡ˆ‡””‹‰–‘Dz‡ƒ Š„‡˜‡”ƒ‰‡•—„Ǧ ™‹–Š–Š‡ƒ„‹Ž‹–›–‘ ‘—––‘ͳͲ ‘—Ž†„‡
to the attention conferred upon •‡ –‘”dzǡ–—”‰‡‘•ƒ‹†–Š‡†‹ˆˆ‡”‡ ‡• ‘˜‹ ‡†–Šƒ–ƒŽŽ•‹‰Ž‡ƒŽ–•Ȃ‘”ƒŽŽ
‘ŽŽ›™‘‘†ǯ•‡™‡•– ‘–‘—‰Š‹‰ǡ „‡–™‡‡‘‰‘”‡ͳ͸ƒ†ƒ’Š”‘ƒ‹‰ ‰‹•‘”Žƒ‰‡”•‘””—•Ȃƒ”‡–Š‡•ƒ‡
but ride this one out with me. 25 are as imperceptible as those ™‹–Š‘—––Š‡‹”‹†‡–‹ˆ›‹‰Žƒ„‡ŽǤ†
Š‡ƒ‹•–”‡ƒ‡†‹ƒŠƒ•Ž‘‰ ƒ‘‰„—ŽǦ’”‘†— ‡†˜‘†ƒ•Ǥ ‘–Š‡” Ž‡–ǯ•„‡Š‘‡•–ǡƒŽ ‘Š‘Žƒ†˜‡”–‹•‹‰
„‡‡’—„Ž‹•Š‹‰•–‘”‹‡•ƒ„‘—– ‘– Šǡ ™‘”†•ǡ•Š‡ƒ‘— ‡†Š‡”Šƒ”†ǦŽ‹‡ could never come to an end – not with
bourbon, Irish, Japanese whiskies and ƒ†ǡˆ”ƒŽ›ǡ‘ˆˆ‡•‹˜‡‹‰‘”ƒ ‡‘ˆ corporate titans always poised to spend
the rest, but it’s typically a fun feature Š‡”ƒ–‹‘ǯ•„‹‰‰‡•–ƒ†‘•–ˆƒ‘—• ƒ•Šǡ‘”™‹–Š•‘ ‹ƒŽ‡†‹ƒ”‡ƒ –‹‰–‘
in a news or culture publication’s ‡š’‘”–ǡƒŠ—‰‡‡ ‘‘‹ †”‹˜‡”ȋ‹–ƒ††• ƒŽ‰‘”‹–Š•ƒ†‰‘„„Ž‹‰—’ƒ––‡–‹‘Ǥ
lifestyle section. Sometimes, as any ͉͸Ǥͳ„‹ŽŽ‹‘–‘–Š‡‡ ‘‘›ƒ—ƒŽŽ›Ȍ ‡”‹ ƒ”‡‰—Žƒ–‘”–Š‡Ž ‘Š‘Žƒ†
”‡ƒ†‡”‘ˆ–Š‹•ƒ‰ƒœ‹‡‘™•ǡ‹–ǯ•ƒ and, perhaps more essentially, a core Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB)
report about a labour issue, market ‘ˆ‹–• —Ž–—”ƒŽŠ‡”‹–ƒ‰‡Ǥ ”‡•’‘•‡ǡ ”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†ƒ‰—‹†‡•’‡ŽŽ‹‰‘—–Š‘™‹–•
ϐŽ— –—ƒ–‹‘•ǡ‘”ƒ ‘”’‘”ƒ–‡‡”‰‡” Scotch producers have not only made ƒŽ ‘Š‘Žƒ†˜‡”–‹•‹‰”‡‰—Žƒ–‹‘•ƒ’’Ž›
or acquisition. These days, however, –Š‡’‘‹––Šƒ–‡Ž‹‹ƒ–‹‰„”ƒ†‹‰ to social media. Alcohol companies
–Š‡”‡ƒ”‡„‹‰‰‡”–‘’‹ ••’ƒ”‹‰‘‹•› would affect tourism, but that it ƒ”‡‘–”‡“—‹”‡†–‘‰‡–’”‡ƒ’’”‘˜ƒŽ‘ˆ
reaction and discussion. †‹•”‡‰ƒ”†‡† ‘–Žƒ†ǯ•Ž‘ˆ–›”‘Ž‡‹ advertisements, but the TTB offered to
‘•–”‡ ‡–Ž›ȋƒ•‘ˆ™”‹–‹‰–Š‹• history and history’s important role in review materials for compliance. This
in late February) was the hullabaloo Scotland today. is a rational and achievable measure
around the report that former Scottish In a way, this points to a failure of –Šƒ–ǯ•Šƒ”†–‘ϐ‹†ˆƒ—Ž–™‹–Šǡ—Ž‹‡
ϐ‹”•–‹‹•–‡”‹ ‘Žƒ–—”‰‡‘”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡† •— ‡••Ǥ–—”‰‡‘†‹†‘–ƒ‡Š‡” –—”‰‡‘ǯ•‡š–”‡‡’”‘’‘•ƒŽǤ

8 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


MYTHBUSTERS
CHRIS MIDDLETON

THE WOODEN AGE


Development of wooden stills in the pre-steam era

A
s incongruous as it might Owings’ Bourbon Furnace Company ƒ’’‡ƒ”‡†‹‡•–‡”—”‘’‡ƒ†‘”–Š
seem, wooden distilling vessels „‡‰ƒ’”‘†— ‹‰–Š‡ϐ‹”•–‡–— › ‡”‹ ƒǡŽ‡ƒ†‹‰–‘–Š‡‡”‹ ƒ
appeared in the 12th century stills in 1797, being of questionable ‘doubler’ development by the 1820s.
at the advent of liquor distillation spirit quality as he mounted wooden Brunschwig, Glauber and other
in Europe. This excludes wooden –‘’•‘ͷͲǦ‰ƒŽŽ‘‹”‘Ǧˆ‘”‰‡†‡––Ž‡• ‡”ƒ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰Šƒ†„‘‘•ȋ›ˆˆǡ
‘†‡•‡”•ǡ‘”ϐŽƒ‡•–ƒ†• ‘–ƒ‹‹‰ for pioneer farmers. Gesner, von Hohenheim, Puff, Faithr,
metal worms, in use since the early The seminal distillation publication et al.) were copied by English
15th century. Wooden stills remained by Hieronymus Brunschwig in 1512 authors such as John French writing
a valued and common material in featured an etching of a wooden bain- in 1651: ‘Manner of Distilling in
many countries into the 20th century. marie distilling vessel with six glass Wooden Vessels’, and ‘Balneum and
–‹Ž–Š‡ͳͻ͵Ͳ•ǡ–Š‡„—Ž‘ˆ‰”ƒ‹ moorshead alembics submerged in Boiling vessel made of Wood’. The
™Š‹•›ƒ—ˆƒ –—”‡†‹‘”–Š‡”‹ ƒ a wooden tub. The advent of steam dissemination of wood distilling
and the British Isles used wooden boilers would revolutionise the use of ‘™Ž‡†‰‡™ƒ•‡˜‹†‡–™Š‡–Š‡
distilling apparatuses. ‹”‰‹‹ƒ••‡„Ž›‰”ƒ–‡†‡™ ‘Ž‘‹•–
George Fletcher a 14-year patent to
While wooden pot-style vessels
impart an inferior spirit due to limited
wooden distilling ‘distill and brew in wooden vessels’ in
sulphur-copper contact and retention vessels appeared... at 1652, noting he was not the inventor.
‘ˆˆ—•‡Ž‘‹Ž•ǡ–Š‡›•‹‰‹ϐ‹ ƒ–Ž›Ž‘™‡”‡† the advent of liquor The turning point for steam was in
the cost of capital and production, with 1698, when Thomas Savery patented
–‹„‡”‹””‡’Žƒ ‡ƒ„Ž›‡š’‡†‹‡–Ǥˆ–‡” distillation in Europe –Š‡ϐ‹”•–’—’–‘—•‡•–‡ƒ’”‡••—”‡–‘
the invention of steam boilers wooden ˆ‘” ‡™ƒ–‡”ˆ”‘ϐŽ‘‘†‡† ‘’’‡”ƒ†
stills found popularity, especially wooden stills. Johann Glauber, in 1648, –‹‹‡•‹‡˜‘ǤŠ‘ƒ•‡™ ‘‡
in countries mashing rye and corn, copied Claude Dariot’s 1603 treatise ’ƒ–‡–‡†–Š‡ϐ‹”•– ‘‡” ‹ƒŽŽ›˜‹ƒ„Ž‡
‘–ƒ„Ž›‹‘”–Š‡”—”‘’‡ƒ†‘”–Š on steam distilling, using copper steam engine 14 years later, upgraded
‡”‹ ƒǡ™Š‡”‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰‘–Š‡‰”ƒ‹ ‰Ž‘„‡Ǧ•Šƒ’‡†ϐŽƒ••–‘‹Œ‡ –•–‡ƒ by James Watt for powering locomotion
was a prerequisite to the British wort- ‹–‘ƒ™‘‘†‡ ƒ•ǡ™‹–Š–Š‡˜ƒ’‘—” in 1759. Christopher Colles, an Irish
based wash in pot stills. •‡––‘ƒ•‡ ‘† ƒ•ˆ‘” ‘†‡•ƒ–‹‘Ǥ ‹‹‰”ƒ––‘‡”‹ ƒǡ”‡’Ž‹ ƒ–‡†–Š‡
Š‡ϐ‹”•–†‡• ”‹’–‹‘‘ˆ™‘‘†‡ Žƒ—„‡”‘˜‡†–‘•–‡”†ƒǡ™Š‡”‡ ‡™ ‘‡‡‰‹‡‹ͳ͹͹ʹ–‘’—’
stills was reported in Ireland’s 14th- the Dutch controlled the international water at a Philadelphia distillery.
century Red Book of Ossory, describing copper trade, soon to be supplanted By 1787, a Boulton and Watt steam
a wooden lidded ‘clepydra’ as the by the British. His technique inspired ‡‰‹‡™ƒ•‹•–ƒŽŽ‡†ƒ–‘„‡”––‡‹ǯ•
ƒŽ‡„‹ Š‡ƒ†ǡ–Š‡’‘–Ž‹‡Ž›‘ˆ‡–ƒŽ ‹—•‡’’‡ƒŽ—œœ‘–‘‹’”‘˜‡‡ˆϐ‹ ‹‡ › ‹Ž„ƒ‰‹‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹ ‘–Žƒ†–‘
‘”ϐ‹”‡†‡ƒ”–Š‡™ƒ”‡Ǥ–‹Žƒ••Ǧ with a set of retort ‘eggs’ which, in pump water. Steam’s next step was to
smelted copper became affordable 1767, Peter Woulfe made into a series vaporise alcohol.
and desirable, early distillers used of Woulfe bottles. In France, Edouard Britain’s excise laws and
combinations of glass, alloy metals, †ƒ‘†‹ϐ‹‡†‘—Žˆ‡ǯ•„‘––Ž‡‹ͳͺͲͳ manufacturing regulations hampered
pottery and wood for distillation –‘‡‰‹‡‡”‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡ϐ‹”•– ‘–‹—‘—• wooden distillation until Stein and
‡“—‹’‡–Ǥ ‡”‹ ƒǡ–Š‡ϐ‹”•–•–‹ŽŽ• batch distillations by connecting Coffey invented continuous wood-
manufactured at Jamestowne in 1608 a series of ‘eggs’ for sequential framed stills. The cost of copper and
were blown from locally made glass distillations. Variations of this semi –Š‹ ƒ•Š‡•‹‡”‹ ƒŽ‡†–‘™‘‘†‡
ƒ†ǡ‹ͳ͸͵Ͳǡˆ”‘ϐ‹”‡† ‡”ƒ‹ Ǥ ‘Š and continuous batch distilling method steam charger stills.

10 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


12 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190
Whisky People Whisky Auteurs

WORDS JASON THOMSON

Whisky making is considered by many to be an artform as much as a


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T
here is something intricacies that set it apart. Back when hobbies – but much like whisky, it takes
particularly special about ’Š›•‹ ƒŽϐ‹Ž•–‘ ™ƒ•—•‡†ǡ„‡ˆ‘”‡–Š‡ a truly skilled practitioner to make
being pulled into someone –”ƒ•‹–‹‘–‘†‹‰‹–ƒŽˆ‘”ƒ–•ǡƒϐ‹Ž™ƒ• something special.
else’s world. No matter the composed of individual still images; 24 In cinema, the best directors often
medium, be it a painting, ‘ˆ–Š‡•‡™‘—Ž†ϐŽƒ•Š„›‡˜‡”›•‡ ‘† „”‹‰’‡”•‘ƒŽŠƒŽŽƒ”•–‘–Š‡ϐ‹Ž•
a song or a novel, the artist wants their to create the impression of movement they work on: it might be an impossibly
work to lift you out of the material (hence the early cinematic moniker looping camera shot, a focus on a
world and set down in theirs, even if it is 'moving pictures'), allowing a story to certain aspect of the human psyche,
just for a moment. That is the real goal be told. Like converting barley grains or an on-screen symmetry so intense
for anyone creating something for other into single malt, a kind of magic is being it becomes unsettling and unworldly.
people to consume. applied, which is simple to understand Š‡”‡ƒ”‡ϐ‹Žƒ‡”•‘—––Š‡”‡Ȃ–Š‡
Of all the art forms there are, cinema but takes years to master. In today's auteurs of the art – whose styles are
might just be the most immersive. world where people can capture so idiosyncratic that just by looking at
Filmmaking, like whisky production, countless images at any time with a one of those 24 still images captured on
appears on paper to be a deceptively pocket-sized device, photography and ϐ‹Žǡ›‘— ƒ‹‡†‹ƒ–‡Ž›‹†‡–‹ˆ›–Š‡
simple process, but it’s the small videography are simple and accessible creative force in its composition.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 13


Whisky People Whisky Auteurs

Is this sort of individuality present in


whisky? Since the 1980s, the real skill
that has come to whisky making across
the world is consistency, creating the
potential for clashes with creativity
in production. Is it possible for the
individual to shine through, or will
creating a memorable and sustainable
product always be the most important
factor? As in the movie business, the
size of your operation might be a big
factor in your creative freedom.
“We’re in the indie sector,” says
Peter Mulryan of Blackwater
Distillery in West Waterford, Ireland.
Mulryan is ideally placed to look at
this comparison: before founding
Blackwater, he worked as a TV producer.
He points out that when the distillery
began producing spirits, Ireland’s
whiskey scene was almost exclusively
dictated by larger corporations. “In any
healthy ecosystem, you’ve got top-
down multinationals, but you also have
ground-up individuals,” he says.
Forging its own path, Blackwater
Distillery uses a double distillation
method in its production, shunning
the triple distillation that has become
synonymous with Irish whiskey.
Mulryan and his team (because you
ƒǯ–ƒ‡™Š‹•›‘”ϐ‹Ž•™‹–Š‘—–ƒ
team) have also delved into distilling
with heritage grains. “What we’re trying
to do here is use a lot of oats because
oats, I think, are Ireland’s gift to the
distilling world,” he says. While this
use of a long-neglected grain connects
Blackwater to Ireland’s distilling
traditions, Mulryan is acutely aware
of why the bigger distilleries stopped
using it in the 1960s: it brings down
yields, which is something the growing
industry was actively moving away
from. But adopting techniques such as
this that could not be easily replicated
on a large scale allowed Blackwater to
carve out a niche.
Scale is something that Stephanie
Macleod, newly appointed director
of Scotch whisky blending at Bacardi,
must deal with daily. Macleod joined
Bacardi-owned Dewar’s in 1998 and

14 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky People Whisky Auteurs

Opening pages: worked under master blender Tom out the company’s commitment to
A Compass Box Aitken until she took on the role herself quality control and consistency.
bottling by specialist in 2006. Macleod believes innovation Mulryan’s thoughts are very different.
spirits design agency
Stranger & Stranger.
has always been a cornerstone of “For us, consistency is death,” he shares
Dewar’s and points to the brand’s rich with a laugh. As an ‘indie’ trying to
These pages, Š‹•–‘”›‘ˆ ƒ•ϐ‹‹•Š‹‰ƒ•ƒ‡šƒ’Ž‡ make its own way, Blackwater has to
clockwise from of its experimentation. “We honour our be “a little bit out there” – without that
top right: heritage and house style, but we try edge, Mulryan says, its products won't
Taking Balcones new things too. It’s a great balance,” get the attention afforded to those from
whiskey from
the cask;
she says. While the drive to try new bigger brands with bigger budgets.
Balcones' Lineage things seems to be a common thread Mulryan’s passion for creating
and Pilgrimage between Blackwater and Dewar’s, an something new in whisky isn’t itself
single malts; John interesting difference is their views new. In Waco, Texas, Chip Tate echoes
Glaser, founder of on consistency when it comes to the many of his views. The word 'pioneer’
Compass Box. ϐ‹ƒŽ’”‘†— –ǤDz•ƒ•–‡”„Ž‡†‡”ǡ–Š‡ is one that might be overused in today’s
ultimate accountability for the quality vernacular, but in Tate’s case it might
and consistency of our whiskies lies not be quite enough. Not once, but twice
with me,” Macleod says, while pointing he embarked on building a distillery

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 15


Whisky People Whisky Auteurs

ˆ”‘–Š‡‰”‘—†—’ǡ•–‹ŽŽ•ƒ†ƒŽŽȂϐ‹”•– to forming and building on a shared These pages, actually never seen anybody do it
at Balcones, then at Tate & Co. Distillery. vision of what it is that makes the clockwise from successfully. I’ve seen a few people try.”
If ever there was a case of someone work there what it is,” Tate tells me. bottom left: When it comes to the spirits that he
Inside Ireland's
determined to put their own stamp on He’s quick to point out that simply sets out to make, he says, “There has
Blackwater Distillery;
their spirits, Tate’s wouldn’t be a hard replicating something that worked Checking the new to be something relatively simple and
one to argue. for a more prosperous brand doesn’t make at Blackwater; compelling at the surface to pull you
“I think so much of that comes down guarantee you the same success: “I’ve Peter Mulryan in a little bit more, to investigate a little
examines a spirit bit more.”
sample. Hearing his thoughts on making the
But that's what masters of their correct creative choices, it is possible
to draw an interesting parallel with
craft do: they create things the responsibility that Macleod feels at
Dewar’s. “As an artist who has children
worth consuming... and [a] wife in the house,” Tate says,
“I need to make artistic decisions
–Šƒ–ƒ”‡ϐ‹ƒ ‹ƒŽŽ›”‡•’‘•‹„Ž‡ƒ†
commercially viable.”

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 17


Whisky People Whisky Auteurs

Tate's comments seem to hint that the Saxon’s response echoes the freedom
way to ensure your creative choices are they have when compared with larger
the right (or at least the most successful) companies: “Being blenders, you do
‘‡•‹•„›ƒ•–‡”‹‰›‘—” ”ƒˆ–ϐ‹”•–ǡ have this kind of limitlessness and that
then starting to play with the process. is the beauty for us.” Interestingly, both
Both Mulryan and Macleod share similar Mulryan from Blackwater and Saxon
sentiments – and this mastery could be from Compass Box make the same point
what is at the core of individual creativity when it comes to how they work: when
in whisky. “The degree to which someone crafting their spirits, they’ll focus on the
can be invited into the creative process inputs and the process without focusing
depends in part on how much they can too much on the exact end product,
be trusted,” says Tate. However, other trusting their stocks, their team and
people will be involved at some point. As their well-honed instincts to create
‡–‹‘‡†‡ƒ”Ž‹‡”ǡ„‘–Šϐ‹Žƒ†™Š‹•› something worth drinking.
making are art forms that are almost But that’s what masters of their craft
impossible to do alone. do: they create things worth consuming
According to Jill Boyd, whisky maker and spending time with, things that
at Compass Box, “Collaboration is at the will leave an impression with the
heart of whisky.” Jill and fellow whisky consumer. That can take many forms.
maker James Saxon are part of the small It could be hugely talented individuals
© STRANGER & STRANGER | BALCONES | COMPASS BOX | BLACKWATER DISTILLERY | BACARDI
Compass Box team who are tasked with working at bigger studios or larger
creating its exciting limited editions and companies, using their experience to
ensuring that the core-range products ensure the most consistent and most
meet the high standards the company is ϐ‹––‹‰’”‘†— –’‘••‹„Ž‡Ǥ”‹– ‘—Ž†„‡
known for. “We’re all drawn to whiskies independents or individuals generating
™‹–Š‰‡‡”‘—•ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ƒ†‰‘‘†„ƒŽƒ ‡ǡdz ideas and products that haven’t been
Saxon says. From talking to them, it seen in the mainstream before, pushing
seems that while there is no set style for boundaries in a way that sparks new
the team to follow, there is a ‘Compass and exciting methods of production.
Box ethos’ that permeates through Tate sums it up nicely: “It’s kind of
everything they make. Boyd shares interesting to hear what [cellist] Yo-Yo
that she “rarely creates the exact blend Ma would make if he did jazz. I don’t
I was expecting” when setting out on This page: know what that would be, but I’d listen
something new, and that she “loves the Stephanie Macleod, to it.” When a master of their craft, an
director of Scotch
—‡š’‡ –‡†‹ϐŽ—‡ ‡•–Šƒ–†‹ˆˆ‡”‡– auteur, puts something out there for you
whisky blending
distilleries can bring out in each other, at Bacardi, outside to enjoy, it’s always worth trying. You
creating nuance or boldness where you Dewar's Aberfeldy could get lost in someone else’s world, if
wouldn’t anticipate.” Distillery. even for just a moment.

18 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Regional Focus Texas

20 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Regional Focus Texas

WORDS KEVIN GRAY

With an ever-growing number of distilleries and award-


winning whiskeys coming out of Texas, producers in
the Lone Star State are looking to certify the category

A
cross the United States according to data from Beverage If numbers are an indication, Texas is
and the world, Texas Information Group. winning the battle. Dozens of whiskey
enjoys a larger-than-life Š‡ϐ‹”•–™ƒ˜‡‘ˆ‡šƒ•™Š‹•‡› distillers now call Texas home, and
reputation. Its physical distilleries sprang to life in the mid- consumers both within the state and
size and association aughts, as small operations began to outside it are beginning to ask for
with cowboy culture continue to distil spirits and lay them down in Texas whiskeys. Perhaps most telling
dominate much of the discourse, barrels. As recently as 2010, the state of all is that the industry is no longer
especially from those outside the counted only two whiskey distilleries content with simply growing its ranks,
state, but Texas today is diverse among its ranks: Garrison Brothers as associations look to certify grain-to-
in people and landscapes, with in the Hill Country town of Hye, and glass operations that are truly Texan.
mega metropolises coexisting Balcones in Waco. Since the beginning, With its earliest whiskey brands
alongside rugged ranchlands. in-state distillers have faced an uphill barely 15 years old, and more players
All that open space has „ƒ––Ž‡ǡϐ‹‰Š–‹‰ƒ‰ƒ‹•–‘”‡‡•–ƒ„Ž‹•Š‡† entering the market each year, Texas
long accommodated cattle players in Kentucky and Tennessee, whiskey is still in its infancy. Distillers
and crops, and a growing consumer awareness (or unawareness), are excited about the opportunities
population has exhibited a and well-meaning but often reductive this affords, especially as the rest
thirst for whiskey, ranking concerns about how the hot climate of the world, from consumers to
second in consumption behind in Texas impacts a spirit’s ability to conglomerates, begins to pay attention
more populous California, ƒ–—”‡ƒ††‡˜‡Ž‘’ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•Ǥ to what is happening in the state.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 21


Regional Focus Texas

“If you want to grasp how fast it’s Garrison’s one-year-old bourbon in Opening pages: “Every day we try to make better
ƒŽŽ Šƒ‰‹‰ǡŒ—•–Ž‘‘ƒ–™Š‘ǯ•„—›‹‰ ʹͲͳͲǤ‘–Šƒ‡”•Šƒ˜‡•‹ ‡„‡ ‘‡ Dan Garrison, bourbon than we did the day before. We
who,” says Nico Martini, the author of craft spirit darlings, winning awards founder of Garrison are nimble, creative, and quick.”
Brothers.
Texas Whiskey and a staunch supporter and garnering praise from critics, and Garrison Brothers has grown into
of in-state spirits. “We now have Balcones was purchased by Diageo in These pages, a 90-person company making nine
massive corporations like Diageo and ‘˜‡„‡”ʹͲʹʹǤ—––Š‡‡ƒ”Ž››‡ƒ”• clockwise from expressions and selling its products in
Pernod Ricard coming into the state and were lean. Garrison began with three right: ͶͲ•–ƒ–‡•ƒ†•‹š ‘—–”‹‡•ǤŠ‡ϐŽƒ‰•Š‹’
buying up distilleries. They know how employees and one expression, and The Ironroot bourbon is still made in small batches,
huge the market is here, and how we’ve they faced an uphill battle convincing Republic family; but now every barrel that goes into
Michael Langan,
not even scratched the surface yet.” drinkers that bourbon can legally the batch is at least three years old.
head of distillery
Before international interlopers come from anywhere in the United at Yellow Rose; The The distillery also produces a variety
entered the conversation, Garrison –ƒ–‡•ǡ‘–Œ—•–‡–— ›Ǥ ‘—†‡”ƒ Fierce Whiskers of limited-release bourbons, including
Brothers and Balcones applied for Garrison embraced the challenge and Distillery; Fierce the double-aged Balmorhea, the port-
permits and broke ground on their realised that not being entrenched in Whiskers Texas ϐ‹‹•Š‡† —ƒ†ƒŽ—’‡ǡƒ†–Š‡— —–ƒ†
†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•‹–Š‡‹†ǦʹͲͲͲ•ǤƒŽ ‘‡• tradition provided them with freedom Straight Rye Whiskey —ϐ‹Ž–‡”‡†‘™„‘›‘—”„‘ȋ–Š‡ʹͲʹʹ
and Texas Straight
™ƒ•ϐ‹”•––‘ƒ”‡–‹ʹͲͲͻ™‹–Šƒ to experiment. edition clocks in at 134.8 proof).
Bourbon Whiskey.
ϐ‹˜‡Ǧ™‡‡Ǧ‘Ž† ‘”™Š‹•‡› ƒŽŽ‡† “Being young and fresh means we are “We get bored easily,” says Garrison.
Baby Blue, followed shortly after by not stuck in old patterns,” he explains. “We must continue to create. Unusual
™‘‘†ϐ‹‹•Š‡•ǡ†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–’”‘‘ˆ•ǡƒ†
wood barrel complexity keep us
interested and excited about our craft.”
›ʹͲͳʹǡ‘”‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•Œ‘‹‡†
the fray, including Fort Worth-based
Firestone & Robertson, which debuted
with TX Blended Whiskey, a sourced
expression, before creating its
homegrown TX Bourbon. Grains come
from a local partner, and a proprietary
yeast strain is derived from a Texan

© GARRISON BROTHERS | AUSTIN COCHRAN | YELLOW ROSE | IRONROOT REPUBLIC | STILL AUSTIN | FIRESTONE & ROBERTSON
pecan. These facts may have been lost
‘–Š‡„”ƒ†ǯ•ϐ‹”•– —•–‘‡”•ǡ„—–‘™
they’re selling points.
“Texas whiskey has shifted from a
scarce, almost novelty category to a
legitimate brand of its own,” says Ken
Graham, vice president of operations
at Firestone & Robertson. He credits
the growing category and increased
consumer awareness of Texas whiskey,
alongside the renewed interest in
brown spirits that’s taken off across the
country over the past 15 years. And the
awards certainly haven’t hurt, as Texas
distilleries have collected accolades that
give brands wider credibility among
drinkers. Retailers have also played a
role, with many in the state giving Texas
whiskeys their own shelf space, rather
than lumping them in with Kentucky
bourbons or other American whiskeys.
‹ ‡‹–•ʹͲͳʹŽƒ— ŠǡŠ‹•‡›
has become one of the state’s best-
selling brands. Pernod Ricard took note

22 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


and acquired Firestone & Robertson in That shift is evident at Houston’s angel’s share as high as eight per cent
2019. Graham says the deep-pocketed ‡ŽŽ‘™‘•‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰ǡ™Š‹ Š”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡† per year.
parent allowed the distillery to ‹–•ϐ‹”•–„‘—”„‘‹ʹͲͳʹǤ –„‡‰ƒ Langan came to Texas from California
improve its operations, marketing, and with 10- and 15-gallon barrels before about four and a half years ago and was
distribution channels, but they were eventually moving to 30-gallon and surprised at how advanced the Texas
never challenged to change the product then 53-gallon barrels. whiskey scene was when he arrived.
or their identity. “Texas whiskey is bold, and lots of He noted that it mirrored a lot of what
A decade ago, small barrels were the ϐŽƒ˜‘—”‡š–”ƒ –‹‘ ‘‡•ˆ”‘–Š‡ he was seeing in California, in terms of
norm. Texas distillers weren’t making „ƒ””‡Žǡdz‡š’Žƒ‹•‡ŽŽ‘™‘•‡ǯ•Š‡ƒ†‘ˆ regional sourcing and reputation. He
enough whiskey to warrant buying distillery Michael Langan. “But there’s thinks part of that reputation is driven
expensive full-size barrels, and they a paradoxical belief that the whiskey by the movement toward grain-to-glass
needed to recoup their investments, ages faster because it’s so hot, when whiskeys and the understanding of how
so whiskey was often put into 10- or it’s really more about the intensity of Texas-aged products differ from those
15-gallon barrels and emerged one to the extraction. The smaller the barrel, aged in other states.
two years later for bottling. the shorter your window to catch the “It’s amazing what the consumer
“Today, people know what works whiskey at its peak. We need more time knows today versus a decade ago,”
and what doesn’t,” says Martini, who in barrel for things to settle down.” says Langan. “Consumers know what
compares ageing whiskey in Texas to Whiskey produced in North Texas comes from where; they want to buy
‘‘‹‰‘˜‡”ƒ‘’‡ϐ‹”‡ǤDz –Š‡‡ƒ”Ž› ages differently than it does in the Texas authentic products.” There are still
days, everyone was using small barrels, Hill Country or down in Houston, where plenty more people to reach in Texas,
and then they realised they needed to the environment exhibits Caribbean- but increasingly, those consumers are
ϐ‹‰Š––Š‡ƒ‰‡‹‰ǡ‘–•’‡‡†‹–—’Ǥ‘— like heat and humidity. Langan found coming from outside the state.
can make brilliant spirits here, but you that four and a half to six years in In 2017, the Spanish wine and
„‡––‡”’ƒ›ƒ––‡–‹‘Ǥ‘— ƒǯ–Œ—•–•‡–‹– 53-gallon barrels is the sweet spot for •’‹”‹–•ϐ‹”ƒ‘”ƒ‘’ƒ›„‘—‰Š–
and forget it.” ‡ŽŽ‘™‘•‡„‘—”„‘•ǡ™Š‹ Š•‡‡ƒ ƒ‡“—‹–›•–ƒ‡‹‡ŽŽ‘™‘•‡ǡ™Š‹ Š

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 23


Regional Focus Texas

opened doors to international markets. Compared to the relative old-guard


Currently, 40 per cent of the distillery’s Texas whiskey brands, Still Austin
products go overseas. South Korea Whiskey Co. is a newer operation. The
accounts for the brand’s largest ϐ‹”•–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›–‘‘’‡‹—•–‹ǯ• ‹–›
international market, with Spain and limits, it began distilling less than six
Germany leading the charge in Europe. years ago. It turns Texas grains into
Head north to Denison, Texas, near bourbon, cask-strength bourbon and
–Š‡ŽƒŠ‘ƒ„‘”†‡”ǡƒ†›‘—ǯŽŽϐ‹† straight rye using a custom 42-foot
Ironroot, named for the hearty local Forsyth column still, and utilises a “slow
vines that helped to save the French water reduction” process, in which
wine and Cognac industry from water is added incrementally during
phylloxera-induced destruction in „ƒ””‡Žƒ‰‡‹‰–‘„ƒŽƒ ‡‘—––Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”
the late 1800s. Founded by brothers ’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡ƒ•–Š‡™Š‹•‡›ƒ‰‡•Ǥ
Robert and Jonathan Likarish, the Still Austin’s chief operating
distillery opened in 2014. From the ‘ˆϐ‹ ‡””ƒ†‘ ‘Ž†‡”•ƒ•ƒ›•–Š‡•‡
beginning, they made whiskey on site distinctions matter and help the brand
using heirloom and non-GMO corn to differentiate itself from the growing
from local farms, and today the brand’s ϐ‹‡Ž†‘ˆ‡šƒ•™Š‹•‡›ƒ‡”•ǤŠ‡”‡ǯ•
portfolio includes a core bourbon line- room in the market for all types of
up – Harbinger XC, Harbinger 115, and products, but consumers are getting
Promethean – augmented by a handful wiser and are interested in authenticity.
of limited releases. “We have an opportunity like no
When Ironroot started, it was other state to truly differentiate
common to see Texas whiskeys released ourselves and to make Texas its own
after just six to 18 months in barrel, but meaningful geographic whiskey
Robert Likarish says age statements region,” says Joldersma. “The grains
are going up across the state. As the are different here than those grown in
reputation for local whiskey grows, other climates, and the way barrels age
distillers are incentivised to increase is noticeably different.”
age and embrace grain-to-glass Three miles away, Fierce Whiskers
production methods. But they are is preparing to enter the fray. The
‡• Š‡™‹‰ƒ‘‡Ǧ•‹œ‡Ǧϐ‹–•ǦƒŽŽ–‡’Žƒ–‡ǡ distillery put spirits into barrels in
pushing boundaries and experimenting ʹͲʹͲƒ†™‹ŽŽ”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡‹–•ϐ‹”•–•–”ƒ‹‰Š–
with what Texas whiskey can be. rye whiskey in June 2023 followed by a
“Distillers come to Texas from all straight bourbon in 2024. It will have to
over the world and with all different compete for shelf space with 100-plus
backgrounds, so almost every style ‡šƒ•™Š‹•‡›•ǡ„—–™‹ŽŽƒŽ•‘„‡‡ϐ‹–
is made here,” says Likarish. This from the groundwork that’s already
means unique mash bills, still types, been laid.
and maturation processes, plus an Fierce Whiskers co-founder Tri Vo
ability to harness the diverse Texas acknowledges the hard work that has
weather, which varies greatly from the built up the Texas whiskey category and
Panhandle to the Gulf coast. Consumers is excited to help tell this regional story
are taking note and realising that all to the world. The distillery will do so
Texas whiskeys aren’t the same. with a tasting room, an outdoor space
Time matters, says Likarish, who ™Š‡”‡˜‹•‹–‘”• ƒŠƒ‰‘—–ǡƒ†ƒϐ‹˜‡Ǧ
notes how much the industry has storey rickhouse.
changed in the last decade. “The Despite the category becoming more
recognition of Texas as a region is crowded every day, Texas distillers
multitudes larger than it was when we •Š‘™ƒ—‹ϐ‹‡†„‡Ž‹‡ˆ–Šƒ––Š‡›ǯ˜‡‘–
got started, and investment in the state yet scratched the surface. “The sky’s the
is growing. We’re just starting to see limit for where we can go,” says Langan
what this region can do.” of Yellow Rose, noting how many

24 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Regional Focus Texas

These pages, distilleries are packed into Kentucky, a be mashed, fermented, distilled, aged Texas, South Texas, the Hill Country
clockwise from left: much smaller state. and bottled within the state. and the Gulf Coast. It’s all part of the
Still Austin Straight Texas whiskeys have already proven Members say that, until legal effort to further distinguish Texas
Rye Whiskey;
they deserve a place at the table. The regulations set standards for what can whiskey as a category independent
TX Bourbon and TX
Blended Whiskey; next step is codifying what, exactly, and cannot be called Texas whiskey, from other American whiskeys, one
The Firestone & constitutes Texas whiskey. The Texas this voluntary measure will help to that’s represented by a diverse line-up
Robertson Whiskey Whiskey Association is a member- separate the wheat from the chaff – or of whiskey makers producing whiskey
Ranch in Forth established group that sprang forth as the compliant, Texas-made products across a variety of styles, from bourbon
Worth, Texas. a way for local distillers to promote from brands that are based in the state and rye to single malts.
the category, educate consumers, and but produced elsewhere. “We have a lot of eyeballs on us right
encourage truth and transparency in The Texas Whiskey Association now,” says Martini. “Consumers are
labelling. Part of that mission includes a also formed the Texas Whiskey Trail, realising that Texas whiskey is not the
‡”–‹ϐ‹ ƒ–‹‘•‡ƒŽǤ‘‡ƒ”–Š‡‡”–‹ϐ‹‡† which promotes distilleries across same as what’s made in Kentucky, and
Texas Whiskey status, a whiskey must the state, with regional trails in North it’s not trying to be.”

Texas distillers show


DXQL¿HGEHOLHIWKDW
they’ve not yet scratched
WKHVXUIDFH

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 25


MISSOURI
THE
Dalhart
TEXAS Dumas
Pampa
OKLAHOMA
DISTILLERIES 40
Amarillo
40
Canyon
ARKANSAS
Hereford
Plainview
27
Wichita Falls
35 Ironroot Republic
Lubbock
Levelland Whiskey Hollow Plano
Bendt
NEW MEXICO Oak & Eden Fort Distilling
Worth
1845 Distilling 30
Blackland
Herman Marshall / Dallas Distilleries
MISSISSIPPI
Acre Distilling
Seminole
Trinity River Five Points
Longview
20 Dallas Deep 20
Big Spring Abilene 20 Firestone 35W
& Robertson 35E Ellum Tyler
Midland Tahwahkaro
Distilling
Fort Bliss Odessa
Horizon City Nacogdoches
20 Monahans San Angelo Waco Balcones
Sierra Lufkin
45
Blanca Pecos
TEXAS Killeen
35
10 Iron LOUISIANA
10 Fort Stockton Wolf Spirit
Van Horn
of Texas Modisett & Sons
10 Treaty
Andalusia College Station
Whiskey Oak
Alpine 10
Kooper Family Bartletts
Garrison Brothers AUSTIN Whiskey
Marfa William
Milam & Greene Fierce
Price Beaumont 10
San Marcos Whiskers MKT
Chapline Still Austin Giant Texas Distillers
Maverick Whiskey Crowded Barrel Shire
10
San Antonio Dripping Springs
Yellow Houston
Alamo Real Spirits Rose
Uvalde Distilling Rebecca Creek Sugar
Land
Victoria
Ranger
Creek
35
37
Rockport
MEXICO
Corpus
Christi
MEXICO GULF OF MEXICO
Interview Emily Chappell

WORDS MILLIE MILLIKEN

30 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Interview Emily Chappell

Illustrator Emily Chappell has been designing That Boutique-y Whisky


Company’s labels since it began – as the company enjoys a celebratory
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\  S ¿ J \

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 31


Interview Emily Chappell

Opening pages:
That Boutique-y
Whisky Company
has become known
for its vibrant, playful
label designs.

These pages, left


to right:
A selection of That
Boutique-y Whisky
Company bottle
labels designed
by Emily Chappell;
Chappell at work.

H
ave you ever heard of blending its own bottlings of grain and
the Gnasher Club? Me malt whiskies. And while the brand is
neither. But illustrator known for handling some very special
Emily Chappell was Ž‹“—‹†•ǡ‹–‹•ƒŽ•‘ƒ•™‡ŽŽ‘™ˆ‘”–Š‡
a member when she ‘Ǧ ‘ˆ‘”‹•–ǡ™‹––›ǡ‰”ƒ’Š‹ ‘˜‡ŽǦ
was a child. Her love of comic books style labels that adorn every single
(such as The Beano and Dennis the bottle – which are the work of the very
Menace) is something she only recently talented Chappell.
remembered, she tells me: “We got a When she started working for
furry little badge which obviously stuck ‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ›ǡ–Š‡™‘”Ž†‘ˆ™Š‹•›Žƒ„‡Ž•
to everything at school.” was not a particularly exciting one.
In isolation, it’s a charming “I think at the time, wine and beer
recollection; in the context of whisky, ™‡”‡“—‹–‡‡š’‡”‹‡–ƒŽƒ•–Š‡›™‡”‡
•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ ƒŽŽ›–Šƒ–‘ˆŠƒ–‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ› choosing to work with artists and
Whisky Company, it brings the world illustrators,” she recalls. “As a whisky
that Chappell, Ben Ellefson, and the company, though, it was a bold move on
team at parent company Atom Brands –Š‡‹”’ƒ”––‘†‘–Š‹•ǤŠ‡”‡™‡”‡˜‡”›
have created into even sharper focus. staid graphics being used at the time,
Šƒ’’‡ŽŽŠƒ•„‡‡Šƒ†Ǧ†‡•‹‰‹‰ very masculine colour palettes and
Šƒ–‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ›Š‹•›‘’ƒ› brands weren’t being too playful – it
labels since it began, estimating more was just very traditional and that
than 200 individual designs in total. was accepted.”
Š‡™Š‹•›„‘––Ž‡”ǡ™Š‹ Š ‡Ž‡„”ƒ–‡† Šƒ–™ƒ•—–‹Ž–Š‡‹†‡’‡†‡–
its 10th anniversary on 12 September bottler enlisted Chappell to bring its
ʹͲʹʹǡ„‘––Ž‡•ƒ˜ƒ•–ƒ””ƒ›‘ˆŽ‹‹–‡†Ǧ vision for a whisky company to life. “I
edition whiskies from renowned think because I wasn’t too involved in
distilleries across Scotland, Japan, the –Š‡‹†—•–”›‹–‰ƒ˜‡‡ƒ™‹†‡Ǧ‡›‡†
USA, Sweden and beyond, alongside approach to it,” she says of her attitude

32 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Interview Emily Chappell

–‘™ƒ”†–Š‘•‡ϐ‹”•–ˆ‡™†‡•‹‰•ǤDzŠ‡”‡ get to grips with it, but they were still ‡Œ‘›–Šƒ–ǤŠ‡ •Š‘™–Š‡™Šƒ–ǯ•
‹•†‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›ƒˆ”‡•Š‡••–‘‹–ǥ †‹†ǯ– exploring as well,” she says of the very, possible within that framework.”
realise how it was going to go.” very early days. Some are more thematic than others,
†‡ ƒ†‡‘ƒ†Šƒ’’‡ŽŽǯ•Šƒ†Ǧ It wasn’t until year six or seven, she with ranges based on a theme such as
drawn, digitally coloured labels have says, that the labels really cemented music or Australian whiskies, meaning
included scenes depicting the people, the world that Chappell and the team Chappell can think about how they will
places and stories behind some of had created with their bottles: “It is work as a collection from the start of
the world’s favourite whisky brands, –Š‡‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ›™‘”Ž†™Š‡”‡–Š‹•Š—‰‡ Š‡” ”‡ƒ–‹˜‡’”‘ ‡••Ǥ–Š‡”•”‡“—‹”‡
peppered with inside jokes for whisky number of labels represent an alternate, meeting the human focus of the labels
‰‡‡•ǡ Ž‡˜‡”–ƒ‡•‘†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›“—‹”•ǡ parallel world of whisky.” in person to capture their likeness or
and some downright silly scenes just Chappell says her designs ordinarily †‡Ž˜‹‰‘”‡‹–‘–Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•‘ˆ–Š‡
for the sake of it. Among the many start with a “rough doodle” informed ™Š‹•‹‡•ˆ‘”‹•’‹”ƒ–‹‘ǤDzŠ‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”
recognisable stills, secret distillery „›–Š‡„”‹‡ˆǤDzŠ‡”‡ƒ”‡—•—ƒŽŽ›ƒŽ‘–‘ˆ is a really lovely thing to play on,” she
†‡’‹ –‹‘•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”Ǧ„ƒ•‡†‹ƒ‰‡”›ǡ things to include: stills drawn correctly, admits, citing one bottle of blended
–Š‡”‡ǯ•ƒŽ•‘„‡‡ƒ˜‡Ž‘ ‹”ƒ’–‘”ϐ‹‰Š–‹‰ somebody’s likeness, what not to grain in particular. “It was a ship made
a shark (Aultmore 20 Years Old), the include, or if it’s a secret distillery ‘ˆƒŽŽ–Š‡•‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡•ǡŽ‹‡ƒ„‹‰
Olympics held in space (Glendullan not giving too many hints away,” she mast made up of coconuts, the ocean
7 Years Old), and an ode to the song ‡š’Žƒ‹•ǤŠ‡ˆ‘”ƒ–•Š‡Šƒ•–‘™‘” was vanilla pods and these birds in
‘My Lovely Horse’ from sitcom Father ‹‹•ƒŽ•‘— ‘˜‡–‹‘ƒŽǣDzŠ‡•‹ŽŽ‹• the sky were made out of bananas. It’s
Ted (Irish Single Malt #1). Even getting a strong complete story on that bonkers but that is what we do well.”
Šƒ’’‡ŽŽǯ•Ž‘˜‡ˆ‘””‹–‹•Š Šƒ”ƒ –‡” • ƒŽ‡‘ˆŽƒ„‡Žǡ™Š‹ Š‹•”‡ƒŽŽ›“—‹–‡•ƒŽŽ ˆ ‘—”•‡ǡ•‘‡‘ˆŠ‡”‘—–Ǧ‘ˆǦ
Alan Partridge, the comedic media ƒ†“—‹–‡ƒ–”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽ’‘”–”ƒ‹–•Šƒ’‡ǡ –Š‡Ǧ„‘š‹†‡ƒ•†‘ǯ–ƒŽ™ƒ›•ƒ‡‹–Ǥ
personality portrayed by Steve Coogan, so you have to think visually about what One she remembers well was for a
has been immortalised on a bottle of ǯ˜‡„‡‡„”‹‡ˆ‡†“—‹–‡˜‡”„ƒŽŽ›‘Ȃ  „‘––Ž‡‘ˆ‘ƒ–‹ǡˆ‘”™Š‹ Šƒ–‹‘ˆ
‘„‡”‘”›ʹͳǤ•›‘—ƒ›Šƒ˜‡‘™
realised, her approach to designing
whisky labels is anything but textbook.
Žƒ•‰‘™Ǧ„ƒ•‡†Šƒ’’‡ŽŽǯ•Ž‘˜‡ˆ‘”
–Š‡˜‹•—ƒŽƒ”–•ǡ•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ ƒŽŽ›‹ŽŽ—•–”ƒ–‹‘ǡ
evolved from comic books into studying
ˆ‘”Š‡” ‹ƒ Š‡•–‡”™Š‡”‡
she discovered the worlds of art
history, graphic design, ceramics and
illustration: “It was a fantastic time
and it opened my eyes to working in
the creative industries.” A tutor pushed
her to go on to the Glasgow School of
Art and on graduation she entered the
cultural sector, doing administration,
taking on a few small poster jobs and
building up her portfolio (Pinocchio
ƒ†Žƒ††‹’‘•–‡”•ˆ‘” Žƒ•‰‘™ǯ•”‘
Š‡ƒ–”‡”‹‰ƒ„‡ŽŽȌǤ
It was a meeting with a friend who
Šƒ†Œ—•–•–ƒ”–‡†™‘”‹‰ˆ‘”‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ›
that began Chappell’s unforeseen but
‘™†‡ ƒ†‡ǦŽ‘‰–‡—”‡ǡ™‹–Šƒ‘”–
ŽŽ‡ƒ•Š‡”ϐ‹”•––”‹ƒŽǤDzŠ‡‡™ 
was an illustrator looking to get some
good, juicy commissions, so she put
‡‹–‘— Š™‹–Š–Š‡ǥ –Š‹‹–™ƒ•
ƒ‘”–ŽŽ‡™Š‹ Š™ƒ•‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡ϐ‹”•–
ones they gave me to see if I could

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 33


Interview Emily Chappell

© THAT BOUTIQUE-Y WHISKY COMPANY


tomatoes was her brief. “I don’t think people should enjoy it rather than be „—– „‡‰–‘†‹ˆˆ‡”ǥŠ‡”‡‹•ƒ†‡ϐ‹‹–‡ This page:
–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›Ž‹‡†‹–ǥŠ‡”‡™‡”‡ƒ daunted by it. I think illustration can playfulness and exuberance about the Chappell’s designs
few batches made I think, but poor bring people in who wouldn’t normally style of drawing I’ve used and over the have also made it
onto That Boutique-y
‘›‘ƒ–‘‡˜‡”‰‘–Š‹•‘”‹‰‹ consider whisky.” ›‡ƒ”•–Šƒ–ǯ•„—‹Ž–—’ƒ ‘ϐ‹†‡ ‡Ǥdz
Whisky Company
story.” He was, however, included in It’s a pioneering approach that has While we often talk about the merchandise.
–Š‡ˆ‘ŽŽ‘™Ǧ—’Žƒ„‡Ž•ƒ†–Š‡”‡ǯ•ƒǮ  undoubtedly opened the door to other advances and changes in making
‘›‘ƒ–‘ǯ‰”ƒ˜‡•–‘‡Ž‹‰‡”‹‰ whisky companies to be more fun in whisky, the evolution of making art
•‘‡™Š‡”‡Ǥƒ–Š‡”–Šƒƒ‹‰ their approach to packaging. Chappell is just as present for Chappell with
favourites, Chappell instead references sees it as healthy competition, but also –Š‡Ž‹‡•‘ˆ ȋƒ”–‹ϐ‹ ‹ƒŽ‹–‡ŽŽ‹‰‡ ‡Ȍ
the designs she thinks are most striking: believes that there is more to what being a source of big discussions in
a Scotch and Japanese whisky blend ‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ›‹•†‘‹‰ǣDz„‡Ž‹‡ˆ‹–Šƒ– her industry right now. It is, she says, a
depicted with a Japanese dragon and a kind of playfulness and humour and the balancing act: “You kind of have to have
rampant lion, another with a volcano want to keep building that world I was your feet in both ponds – to be aware
erupting, maps, raucous gig crowds, or talking about.” of what’s out there but also staying
others with plants and botanicals which From an artist’s point of view, true to knowing what you’re good at.”
mirror her love for her allotment. working on the project for 10 years and Just like whisky can change over time,
Š‡”‡ƒ”‡ƒŽ•‘ǡ‘ˆ ‘—”•‡ǡ’ƒ”ƒŽŽ‡Ž• counting has also been professionally so has Chappell’s work. Advancements
to be drawn between the making enriching. “It has been a really good in the art world have had an impact
of whisky and the world of art, but thing to have done in helping my ‘Š‡”™‘”™‹–Š‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ›ǡ™‹–ŠŠ‡”
Chappell sees storytelling as the own work as well,” she explains. “You †‡•‹‰•„‡‹‰˜‡”›ǮŠƒ†Ǧ†”ƒ™ǯƒ†
closest of them all, not only in its role really need good draughtsmanship, loose at the start, but her feeling a need
of telling the distillery stories but also you need to be able to draw things to tighten things up a little as the years
bringing more people into the category accurately, so having that regular level have gone by. But people, she says, will
ƒ•ƒ™Š‘Ž‡ǤDzŠ‡•–‘”›–‡ŽŽ‹‰‡Ž‡‡– of professionalism and tight deadlines always want the human touch.
you can’t deny is what links [art] to Šƒ•„‡‡‰”‡ƒ–ǥŠ‡›‘—ǯ”‡ˆ”‡•Š Back in 2012, it would have been
™Š‹•›ǥ‘— ƒ•–‘”›–‡ŽŽ–Š”‘—‰Š out of art school you have this idea of †‹ˆϐ‹ —Ž–ˆ‘”ƒ›‘‡ȂŽ‡ƒ•–‘ˆƒŽŽ
illustration more so than typography pure work, and then you have your Chappell – to envision the integral part
or photography and the way [whisky] professional work and people think •Š‡™‘—Ž†‰‘‘–‘’Žƒ›ƒ–‘—–‹“—‡Ǧ›Ǥ
is going now it is more playful, too – about them as two separate things, “Obviously nobody can predict what
will happen in the future, but it has
been a good thing for me to have done.
The storytelling element you Š‡”‡ƒŽŽ›Š—‘”‘—•Žƒ„‡Ž•”‡ƒŽŽ›Ž‹‰Š–
it all up for me – when I’m giggling away
can’t deny is what links when I’m drawing something and I
know it will make someone else smile.
[art] and whisky... I’m not bored yet.”

34 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Partnered Content Kingsbarns

From a dream
†‹”‡ –‘” •ƒ„‡ŽŽƒ‡›••ǤŠ‡”‡ ‹’‡
ˆ‘”‘‘ ‘–‹•ͻͲ’‡” ‡–‡šǦ„‘—”„‘
ƒ†ͳͲ’‡” ‡–ȋ•Šƒ˜‡†ǡ–‘ƒ•–‡†
ƒ†”‡Ǧ Šƒ””‡†‡šǦ‘”–—‰—‡•‡”‡†™‹‡

to a doocot
ƒ•Ȍƒ–—”‡†•‹‰Ž‡ƒŽ–Ǥ
Šƒ”ƒ –‡”‹•‡†„›ƒ‘–ƒ„Ž‡
•™‡‡–‡••ǡ–Š‡™Š‹•›‹•Ž‹‰Š–ǡ‹–‡•‡Ž›
ˆ”—‹–›ǡϐŽ‘”ƒŽǡƒ† ‘’Ž‡‡–‡†„›ƒ
”‹ Š ‘Ž‘—”Ǥ–Š‡‘•‡ǡ–Š‡™Š‹•›
Kingsbarns Distillery in Fife has ˆ‡ƒ–—”‡••—’–—‘—••™‡‡–ƒ†ϐŽ‘”ƒŽ
DQQRXQFHGDQHZÀDJVKLSH[SUHVVLRQ • ‡–•‘ˆ•‘ˆ–„”‘™•—‰ƒ”™‹–Š„ƒƒƒ
ƒ‡„ƒ––‡”ƒ†–”‘’‹ ƒŽ‘–‡•Ǥ

T
–Š‡’ƒŽƒ–‡ǡ‘‡ ƒ‡š’‡ –ƒ„‡ƒ—–‹ˆ—Ž
Š‡ϐ‹”•–ϐŽƒ‰•Š‹’‡š’”‡••‹‘ This page, •‹–‡ǯ•‘”‹‰‹ƒŽˆƒ”„—‹Ž†‹‰•–Šƒ––Š‡ ‘„‹ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ’‹‡ƒ’’Ž‡•›”—’ƒ†
ˆ”‘‹‰•„ƒ”•‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”› cloclwise from top: †‡•‹‰‡”•‹ ‘”’‘”ƒ–‡†‹–‘–Š‡‡™ •—‡”„‡””‹‡•ǡ™‹–ŠƒŠ‹–‘ˆ”Š—„ƒ”„Ǥ
‹ ‹ˆ‡ǡǮ”‡ƒ–‘”ƒǯǡ The Kingsbarns •–”— –—”‡†—”‹‰‹–• ‘•–”— –‹‘Ǥ Dz‘‘ ‘–Šƒ•„‡‡›‡ƒ”•‹–Š‡
Distillery still house;
™ƒ•ƒŠ‹‰ŠŽ›’‘’—Žƒ”ƒ† ”‘‘— ‡†Ǯ†‘‘Ǧ‡–ǯǡƒ†‘‘ ‘–‹• ƒ‹‰Ǥ‡ǯ˜‡•’‡–ƒŽ‘–‘ˆ–‹‡
Kingsbarns Doocot
—Ž–‹Ǧƒ™ƒ”†Ǧ™‹‹‰ in one of the ƒ–”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽˆ”‡‡Ǧ•–ƒ†‹‰‡•–‹‰ ’‡”ˆ‡ –‹‰–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‹‰’”‘ ‡••
‡š’”‡••‹‘ǡ‡ƒ”‹‰’”ƒ‹•‡ˆ‘”‹–• distillery doocot’s •Š‡Ž–‡”ˆ‘”†‘˜‡•Ȃƒ‹’‘”–ƒ–’ƒ”– –‘ƒ‡•—”‡™‡ǯ˜‡ ”ƒˆ–‡†–Š‡
†‹•–‹ –‹˜‡Ž‹‰Š–ƒ†ˆ”—‹–› Šƒ”ƒ –‡”Ǥ terracotta nesting ‘ˆ”—”ƒŽŽ‹ˆ‡‹–Š‡‡ƒ”Ž›ͳͺͲͲ•™Š‡ ’‡”ˆ‡ –ϐ‹‹•Šǡdz•ƒ›•‹ŽŽ‹ƒ‡›••ǡ
‘™–Šƒ––Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ••‹‰ƒ–—”‡ boxes; Distillery –Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•‘”‹‰‹ƒŽ ‡‘”‰‹ƒˆƒ” ˆ‘—†‡”ƒ†ƒƒ‰‹‰†‹”‡ –‘”‘ˆ
•‹‰Ž‡ƒŽ–™Š‹•›Šƒ•Šƒ†–‹‡–‘ manager Peter „—‹Ž†‹‰•™‡”‡ ‘•–”— –‡†Ǥ‘ ƒ–‡†ƒ– ‹‰•„ƒ”•‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›Ǥ
Holroyd with visitors
ˆ—”–Š‡”ƒ–—”‡ǡ‹–Šƒ•„‡‡ƒ‘— ‡† –Š‡Š‡ƒ”–‘ˆ–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ƒ†ϐ‹––‡†™‹–Š Dz‡ǯ”‡•‘’”‘—†‘ˆ–Š‡‡†”‡•—Ž–Ǥ
taking a tour.
–Šƒ––Š‡‡š’”‡••‹‘™‹ŽŽ„‡”‡–‹”‡†‘ ‘”‡–Šƒ͸ͲͲ–‡””ƒ ‘––ƒ‡•–‹‰„‘š‡•ǡ Š‡‡™ƒ††‹–‹‘–‘‘—””ƒ‰‡ƒŽŽ‘™•
–Š‡ ‘ƒ––ƒ‹Ž•‘ˆ–Š‡„”ƒ†ǯ•‡™‡•– ‹‰•„ƒ”•ǯ†‘‘ ‘–„‘ƒ•–•†ƒǦ•–›Ž‡ ™Š‹•›Ž‘˜‡”•–‘‡Œ‘›–Š‡•ƒ‡ˆ”—‹–›
‹–”‘†— –‹‘•Ǥ‡’”‡•‡–‹‰–Š‡ ”‡‡ŽŽƒ–‹‘•™‹–Š ‘–Š‹ †‡–ƒ‹Ž‹‰ǡƒ† ƒ†‹†—Ž‰‡–ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•–Šƒ––Š‡›ǯ”‡—•‡†
‡š–•–ƒ‰‡‹–Š‡„”ƒ†ǯ•Œ‘—”‡›ǡ ‹–Ž‘‘•–‘ƒŽŽ–Š‡™‘”Ž†Ž‹‡ƒ‹‹ƒ–—”‡ –‘„—–™‹–Šƒƒ††‡†Ž‡˜‡Ž‘ˆ„ƒŽƒ ‡
Š‡‘”‡‘ŽŽ‡ –‹‘‘™‹ Ž—†‡• ˆ‘”–‹ϐ‹‡†–‘™‡”ǤŠ‹•†‹•–‹ –‹˜‡ƒ† ƒ† ‘’Ž‡š‹–›Ǥ•™‡–”ƒ•‹–‹‘‹–‘
–™‘•‹‰Ž‡ƒŽ–•ǣ–Š‡‡™ϐŽƒ‰•Š‹’ †‡ϐ‹‹‰ˆ‡ƒ–—”‡™ƒ•‹ ‘”’‘”ƒ–‡†‹–‘ –Š‡™ƒ”‡”‘–Š•ǡ‘‘ ‘–‹•–Š‡
‡š’”‡••‹‘ǡ‘‘ ‘–ǡƒ–—”‡†‹‡šǦ –Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•‰Žƒ••„‘––Ž‡–Š”‘—‰Š ’‡”ˆ‡ –”‡ˆ”‡•Š‹‰ǡˆ”—‹–›†”ƒ–Šƒ–‹•
„‘—”„‘ƒ†ȋ•Šƒ˜‡†ǡ–‘ƒ•–‡† „‡ƒ—–‹ˆ—Ž‡„‘••‡††‡–ƒ‹Ž‹‰Ǥ ‰—ƒ”ƒ–‡‡†–‘–ƒ‡™Š‹•›ˆƒ•‘ƒ
ƒ†”‡Ǧ Šƒ””‡†Ȍ‘”–—‰—‡•‡”‡†™‹‡ ‹•–‹ŽŽ‡†—†‡”–Š‡™ƒ– Šˆ—Ž‡›‡ •–—‹‰ϐŽƒ˜‘—”Œ‘—”‡›Ȃ™‡Š‘’‡
„ƒ””‹“—‡•ǡƒ†ƒŽ ‘‹‡ǡƒ–—”‡†‹ ‘ˆ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ƒƒ‰‡”‡–‡” ‘Ž”‘›†ǡ —•–‘‡”•Ž‘˜‡‹–ƒ•— Šƒ•™‡†‘Ǥdz
‡šǦ‘Ž‘”‘•‘•Š‡””› ƒ••Ǥ ˆ”‘„ƒ”Ž‡›•‘—” ‡†Ž‡••–Šƒ•‹š‹Ž‡• ‘Ǧ Š‹ŽŽ‡†ϐ‹Ž–‡”‡†ƒ†„‘––Ž‡†
ƒ‡†ƒˆ–‡”–Š‡ ‘–•™‘”†ˆ‘” ˆ”‘‹‰•„ƒ”•‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǡ–Š‹•‡™ ƒ–Ͷ͸Ψǡ‹‰•„ƒ”•‘‘ ‘–‹•
Ǯ†‘˜‡ ‘–ǯǡ‘‘ ‘–’ƒ›•–”‹„—–‡–‘‘‡‘ˆ ϐŽƒ‰•Š‹’•‹‰Ž‡ƒŽ–Šƒ•‡Œ‘›‡†ƒ ƒ˜ƒ‹Žƒ„Ž‡‘™˜‹ƒ–Š‡†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•
–Š‡‘•–•–”‹‹‰ƒ” Š‹–‡ –—”ƒŽˆ‡ƒ–—”‡• Ž‘‰‡”ƒ–—”ƒ–‹‘‹ƒ ‘„‹ƒ–‹‘‘ˆ ™‡„•‹–‡ˆ‘”͉Ͷͷ’‡”͹Ͳ Ž„‘––Ž‡Ǥ
‘ˆ‹‰•„ƒ”•‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǡƒŽ‡‰ƒ ›‘ˆ–Š‡ ƒ•• ƒ”‡ˆ—ŽŽ›•‡Ž‡ –‡†„›’”‘†— –‹‘ www.kingsbarnsdistillery.com

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 35


Whisky & Culture Creative Partnerships

In 2023, artists from all disciplines are


partnering with whisky brands to hone
creative partnerships. What’s driving
WKHWUHQGDQGKRZH̆HFWLYHLVLW" WORDS KRISTIANE SHERRY

B
ut does whisky ever make you sit up not all of these collaborations go beyond the
and think anymore?” I’m on a Zoom bottle. Whether it’s the likes of The Macallan and
call with a big-name collector, one who Bentley or a small-release partnership with a local
will remain anonymous. He artist, and whoever the intended audience, from
has seen his fair share of so-called the enthusiast to the career investor and everyone
whisky partnerships. Designers, artists, car in between, it is unclear how much these whisky
makers, watch brands, crystal makers, chefs – he’s creative partnerships resonate – if at all.
reached newness fatigue. Jaded and bored, he “If the collaboration is authentic and means
sighs into his laptop. “It’s just all been done, and it something, and they’ve explained it clearly, it
doesn’t mean anything.” means more,” another whisky collector says.
It’s a sentiment some agree with. Whisky prices In her words, sharing – in real life, and online –
seem to only be going in one direction, and every whiskies resulting from such partnerships can be
week there’s a new limited-edition bottling to try fun. Especially if the liquid itself is distinct in some
and tempt us to spend. Bright colours and luxury way, too. “But sometimes I think they’re just not
names are ten-a-penny in premium whisky, but released with me in mind.”

36 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 37
Whisky & Culture Creative Partnerships

It’s an interesting point to consider.


When you’re already into whisky, it’s
easy to miss some of these partnerships
for what they are: a consumer
recruitment drive.
“We work in partnership with
creatives regularly across our brands
and see it as a hugely important strand
within our overall marketing and
communications mix,” says Mathieu
Deslandes, Chivas Brothers’ director of
marketing for prestige brands. He cites
recent activity with Royal Salute and
Ballantine’s as particularly exciting. For
him, it’s about “pushing the boundaries
of Scotch whisky and inviting new
audiences into our brands’ world.”
Take Royal Salute. Last year it
released ‘The Art of Wonder’, a series
of whiskies celebrating creativity
in art and design. It’s about pairing
“exceptionally high-aged Scotch”
with “the magic of art”. Featherwork
sculptor Kate MccGwire created 21
unique pieces in a body of work called
Forces of Nature to accompany a
53-year-old Royal Salute blend. Another,
perhaps more unexpected, example
is Ballantine’s’ work with Gearbox’s
franchise, Borderlands the Game.
It’s a long-term partnership which
sees the brand ‘hire’ a video game
character called Moxxi. As well as a
responsible drinking message, there’s
an accompanying Ballantine’s Moxxi’s
Bar Edition limited-edition bottle.
The creative work serves a dual
purpose, Deslandes continues. “We’re
able to ‘open up’ Scotch by engaging
the audiences of the partners we work
with in innovative ways, which is vital
to protecting the future of the category
and our industry at large.”
Driving growth by looking to other
categories is a staple for Johnnie
Walker. To celebrate the Year of the
Rabbit, the blended Scotch partnered
with Shanghai-based fashion designer
Angel Chen to create Johnnie Walker
Blue Label Lunar New Year Limited
Edition Design. Chen, who studied at
prestigious arts college Central Saint

38 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Martins, sought inspiration for her for all parties can be realised. And that
design from Johnnie Walker master includes us whisky lovers, too.
blender Emma Walker. When asked what whisky Opening pages:
“My work is often inspired by partnerships excited them most, Fashion designer
different generations, different genders Bowmore’s Aston Martin tie-in and Angel Chen with a
bottle of Johnnie
and cultures coming together to create The Macallan’s aforementioned
Walker Blue Label
something fresh and new,” Chen said as Bentley partnership were all name- Lunar New Year
her design was unveiled. “These ideals checked by whisky lovers. So too was Limited Edition
echo the craft of Johnnie Walker, taking The Balvenie’s 2015 campaign with Design.
different types of whisky from different classic car maker Morgan. All time-
distilleries, with differing ages of honoured tie-ups. But beyond motors, These pages,
clockwise from
maturation and blending them together Glenmorangie’s vibrantly striking ad
© DIAGEO | EDRINGTON | PERNOD RICARD | MILES ALDRIDGE / GLENMORANGIE

top left:
perfectly to create a masterpiece – that campaign with artist and photographer Jaume Ferràs, The
is something I can relate to.” It’s another Miles Aldridge also stirred up Macallan’s global
example of knitting together different conversation. “It just feels… fresh,” one creative director;
facets from seemingly distant worlds to whisky drinker told me. Angel Chen works
ϐ‹†‡ƒ‹‰Ǥ This sense stretches back to when the on her designs for
Johnnie Walker Blue
ƒ’ƒ‹‰ϐ‹”•–Žƒ— Š‡†‹ʹͲʹͲǤDz‡
Label; Ballantine’s
Time honoured decided to use colour as a metaphor to Moxxi’s Bar Edition;
It’s that sense of meaning, that open up the whisky’s world,” Alexander Ballantine’s ‘hired’
authenticity, that is the difference ƒŽ Š‡˜ǡ Š‹‡ˆ ”‡ƒ–‹˜‡‘ˆϐ‹ ‡”ƒ–ƒ† the character
between a collaboration resonating agency DDB Paris, said at the time. “Of Moxxi as part of
or just seeming a bit… forced. And course, as a master of colour, Miles its partnership
with Borderlands
one ingredient for that credibility is Aldridge was the obvious talent to bring
the Game; An
time. One-offs aren’t inherently less our vision to life.” Apocalypse Spritz
meaningful, but when brands align for Fast-forward to late 2022 and there’s with Ballantine’s
›‡ƒ”•Ȃ‘”Ž‘‰‡”Ȃ–Š‡—–—ƒŽ„‡‡ϐ‹–• no doubt that the extension of the Moxxi’s Bar Edition.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 39


campaign has been near-universally
celebrated. It’s clever. There are ‘easter
eggs’ – coded messages and references
– throughout. It’s a creative partnership
that feels more like an invitation to
join a club. “They instil consumer
engagement with what’s going on,”
Aldrige himself says.
Is it different because it’s an
ad? Maybe. Perhaps that makes its
popularity even more surprising. We
don’t usually like being ‘sold to’. The
subtlety of this creative partnership,
and its inherent cleverness, are what
set it apart.
Back to The Macallan, and one of its
longest-running partnerships away
from cars has been with the Roca
brothers. The sibling trio run the
three-Michelin-starred El Celler de
Can Roca just outside Barcelona. It’s a

40 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky & Culture Creative Partnerships

ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ǦŽ‡†–‹‡Ǧ—’–Šƒ–ǡ•‹ ‡ʹͲͳͶǡŠƒ• spectrum are programmes such as These pages, from Projects to come from the residency
spanned whisky releases, charitable Ž‡ϐ‹††‹ Šǯ•”–‹•–•‹‡•‹†‡ ‡ǤŠ‡ left to right: programme include Canadian Dave
partnerships, and menu development at output isn’t measured in sales – or Angel Chen’s designs Dyment’s ‘A Drink To Us (When We’re
for the Johnnie
the distillery itself. even whisky. Started back in 2002, the Both Dead)’ from the 2008 season. “The
Walker Blue Label
“The philosophy of El Celler de programme sees up to eight artists special edition were artist was inspired by the fact that, in
ƒ‘ ƒ”‡ϐŽ‡ –•Š‡ƒ ƒŽŽƒǯ• ‘”‡ every summer descend on the Speyside focused on the genealogical terms, when you drink a
values of creativity, innovation, and single malt distillery for three months. Year of the Rabbit; whisky that is over 30 years old you
craftsmanship – the grounds for a They are fully funded to the tune of Two images from are drinking a spirit that was made
strong partnership,” The Macallan’s £15,000 and given free rein to create. Glenmorangie’s ‘It’s by the previous generation, many of
Kind of Delicious
global creative director Jaume Ferràs Some are selected via open call, others, whom may no longer be working at
and Wonderful’
says. He describes the partnership as such as in Taiwan, via a long-term campaign, shot by the distillery or indeed even be alive,”
one that’s forged “new visions” in the partner. In the UK, artists are recent photographer Fairgrieve says. The project saw a full
crafts of whisky making and cooking. graduates from art schools. Miles Aldridge. 500-litre butt of new make buried
The ambition is to “push the boundaries “Did the artists turn up? Did they underneath Warehouse 8, like a time
of the worlds of whisky and cuisine”. have a positive experience here? capsule, not to be surfaced until 2108.
For Ferràs, this partnership is about Did they make some work here that It was an “earnest attempt” at crafting
working towards a common goal, which they couldn’t make elsewhere? Did 100-year-old whisky. A series of
comes to the fore when elements such they engage with the opportunity symbolically empty caskets were then
as creative control are being negotiated. offered? Did they display the work in sold to both art and whisky collectors.
“We place a lot of emphasis on sharing our on-site gallery? Did it get people “As no one involved in the project
common values with our partners talking?” says Andy Fairgrieve, curator will be alive in the next century, any
and doubling down on this to remind ‘ˆ–Š‡ Ž‡ϐ‹††‹ Š”–‹•–•‹‡•‹†‡ ‡ purchasers of the caskets will need to
ourselves of each one’s admiration for programme. “If we tick those boxes then pass them on to the next generation,”
the other – we’re all looking for the it can be considered effective.” Fairgrieve adds. The idea is that those
•ƒ‡ǡ—–—ƒŽŽ›„‡‡ϐ‹ ‹ƒŽ‘—– ‘‡Ǥdz Š‡‹†‡ƒ ƒ‡ˆ”‘ Ž‡ϐ‹††‹ Šǯ• that inherit the caskets will be able
Trust, transparency, and knowing how late life president Charles Gordon. He to share the whisky between them. It
to complement each other creatively are felt the company should invest in the feels radical now – imagine what the
the most important elements. arts and build a collection, Fairgrieve reception could have been like back in
explains. It was his nephew, Peter 2008 when these types of partnerships
An altruistic partnership? Gordon, who evolved the concept into were in their infancy.
At the other end of the ‘sold to’ the residency model.
Authenticity is everything
The creative arts are a broad church –
this feature hasn’t touched on music,
ϐ‹ –‹‘ǡ‘”ƒ›‘–Š‡”†‹• ‹’Ž‹‡•Ǥ –ǯ•
safe to say that whisky is an established
part of the congregation. Distilling and
blending itself is an art form. It makes
sense that shared passions resonate
in creativity, and it’s exciting that new
opportunities are emerging. Just look at
Ballantine’s and gaming.
A mark of meaningful success, then,
is neither commercial nor magnanimity.
“It’s important to us that the partners
we’re working with have the freedom
to express themselves. Otherwise, you
run the risk of diluting what made them
•‘•’‡ ‹ƒŽ‹–Š‡ϐ‹”•–’Žƒ ‡ǡdz•ƒ›•Š‹˜ƒ•
Brothers’ Deslandes. As long as there’s a
spark of special, that partnership can be
a success. Without that magic, it’s just
another collaboration.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 41


Interview Drew Mayville

WORDS
BLAIR PHILLIPS
& DAVIN DE KERGOMMEAUX

THE LINES
Sazerac’s seasoned master blender Drew Mayville
is championing a fresh approach to whisky blending
in North America, drawing inspiration and liquid
from across the continent’s borders

S
azerac master blender ˜‡–—ƒŽŽ›ǡƒ’”‘‘–‹‘Žƒ†‡†ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡
Drew Mayville hated ‘–Š‡„Ž‡†‹‰–‡ƒǡ™Š‹ Š‹ Ž—†‡†
almost everything he Š‹•‡–‘””–ƒ™‡ǤDzŠƒ–ǯ•™Š‡”‡ 
ate as a toddler. He was developed my passion and honed my
so sensitive to aromas •‹ŽŽ•ƒ•ƒ„Ž‡†‡”ǤŠ‡”‡‹•‘•—„•–‹–—–‡
ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ǡŠ‡ǯ†”ƒ–Š‡” ˆ‘”Ž‡ƒ”‹‰ˆ”‘–Š‡„‡•–‹–Š‡‹†—•–”›ǡdz
skip a meal than search he says.
‘—–™Šƒ–Š‘‡–‘™ The Seagram dynasty was second to
Canadian chefs had to offer. “I believe that ‘‡ǡ•ƒ’’‹‰—’–Š‡„‡•–’ƒŽƒ–‡•‹–Š‡
I inherited my sense of smell and taste ‹†—•–”›–Š‡–”ƒ‹‹‰ƒ††‡˜‡Ž‘’‹‰–Šƒ–
ˆ”‘›‘ǤŠ‡™ƒ•ƒ —–‡Ž›•‡•‹–‹˜‡ –ƒŽ‡–‹–‘„Ž‡†‹‰”‘›ƒŽ–›ǤDz˜‡–‘†ƒ›ǡ
and always reminded me where my palate their training led many people to lead
ƒ‡ˆ”‘ǡdz”‡‡„‡”•ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡Ǥ ‘–Š‡”†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•ǡdz•ƒ›•ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡Ǥ‡ƒ‰”ƒ
••Ž‘™Ž›ƒ•™Š‹•›ƒ–—”‡•‹ƒ„ƒ””‡Žǡ developed the Canadian practice of
•‘†‹†ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡ǯ•’ƒŽƒ–‡†‡˜‡Ž‘’ǤŠ‡Š‡ ‹ Ž—†‹‰ƒ› ‘’‘‡–•‹‹–•„Ž‡†•ǡ
began his career at Seagram in the early ƒ‹‘˜ƒ–‹‘–Šƒ–‡‡’•‡šǦ‡ƒ‰”ƒ
ͳͻͺͲ•ǡŠ‡™ƒ•ƒƒœ‡†„›–Š‡˜ƒ”‹‘—• brands at the front of the whisky herd.
aromas drifting in from the distillery. Dz›–”ƒ‹‹‰™ƒ•–Š”‘—‰Š—Ž–‹’Ž‡
–Žƒ•–ǡŠ‹•‘•‡Šƒ†ˆ‘—†‹–•Š‡ƒ˜‡Ǥ areas and disciplines before I had the
Dz ‡ ‘˜‡†–‘–Š‡“—ƒŽ‹–›ƒ”‡ƒǡ „‡‰ƒ chance to lead the blending team at
›Œ‘—”‡›‘ˆ†‡˜‡Ž‘’‹‰›’ƒŽƒ–‡Ǥ  ‡ƒ‰”ƒǤ‡ˆ‘”‡–Šƒ–ǡ  ‘•‹†‡”‡†‘˜‹‰
“—ƒŽ‹–›ǡ ™ƒ•‡š’‘•‡†–‘–Š‡†‹ˆˆ‡”‡– –‘ Ž‘”‹†ƒ–‘™‘”ƒ–”‘’‹ ƒƒȏ‘™‡†
†‹•–‹ŽŽƒ–‡•ǡƒ–—”ƒ–‡•ǡƒ†ƒŽŽ‘ˆ‡ƒ‰”ƒǯ• „›‡ƒ‰”ƒƒ––Š‡–‹‡Ȑ„—–™ƒ•†‡‹‡†
ϐ‹‹•Š‡†’”‘†— –•ǡ™Š‹ Š™ƒ•Œ—•–ƒ„‘—– „‡ ƒ—•‡–Š‡›Šƒ†ƒŽƒ”‰‡”‘’’‘”–—‹–›ˆ‘”
‡˜‡”›•’‹”‹–’”‘†— –Ǥ ”‘–Š‡”‡ǡ ‘˜‡† ‡ǤŠƒ–ǯ•™Š‡ ™ƒ••‡–‘ƒ’ƒ–Š™ƒ›–‘
–‘‘–”‡ƒŽ–‘†‡ ‹†‡‘–Š‡–ƒ•–‡“—ƒŽ‹–› leading the Seagram blending team and
‘ˆ–Š‡’”‘†— –•Ǥdz –‡ Š‹ ƒŽ•‡”˜‹ ‡•ǡdz‡š’Žƒ‹•ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡Ǥ

42 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Interview Drew Mayville

We’re all about experimentation


to make better products, including
blending, like Mister Sam...
Interview Drew Mayville

“Learning over the years from Art „‡†‘‡„—–Šƒ••‡‡ƒƒ†‹ƒ™Š‹•› ƒ”–‘ˆƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡ ”ƒ˜‡†ƒƒ†ƒǯ•


Dawe helped develop my blending •Ž‘™Ž›„—‹Ž†•–”‡‡– ”‡†ƒ•†‹•–‹ –‹˜‡ ‘’Ž‡š‡–Š‘†‘ˆ„Ž‡†‹‰›”‹ƒ†
•‹ŽŽ•Ǥ•‹‰›ƒ–—”ƒŽƒ„‹Ž‹–›ƒ† ˆ”‘‘–Š‡”™Š‹•‹‡•Ǥ ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ‹–†‘‡•ǯ– ™Š‹•‹‡•–‘ƒ‡ƒϐ‹ƒŽ’”‘†— –Ǥ
learning from the master was the best Šƒ’’‡‘˜‡”‹‰Š–Ǥƒ‡ǡˆ‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡ “Mingling whiskies was simpler
™ƒ›–‘†‡˜‡Ž‘’›Ǯ„Ž‡†‹‰ Š‘’•ǯǤ ƒœ‡”ƒ ǯ•ƒ”‹„‘—”‘••‹‰ǡ™Š‹ Š –Šƒ„Ž‡†‹‰–Š‡™ƒ›‡ƒ‰”ƒ†‹†ǡ
Dz”–‹•–Š‡†‡ϐ‹‹–‹‘‘ˆƒ‡–‘”Ǥ was released in 2010 as part of a goal ‡˜‡–Š‘—‰Š‡”‹ ƒ™Š‹•‡›ƒ†
He saw something special in me early –‘’—–ƒ‘—‡–ƒŽŠ‘‘ˆ’”‹–‘ „‘—”„‘’”‡•‡–‡†–Š‡‹” ŠƒŽŽ‡‰‡•Ǥ–
on in my career at Seagram. He was Canadian whisky. ‡ƒ‰”ƒǡ™‡„Ž‡†‡†ˆ‘” ‘•‹•–‡ ›Ǥ
the one who moved my family and Dzƒ –Š‡ǡ™‡†‹†ǯ–‘™ƒ› ƒ”‡Ž›†‹†™‡„Ž‡†–‘ƒ‡‡™
‡ˆ”‘ƒ–‡”Ž‘‘–‘‘–”‡ƒŽˆ‘”› †‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡•‹ƒƒ†ƒ„—–Šƒ†„‘—‰Š– ’”‘†— –•Ǥ–—ˆˆƒŽ‘”ƒ ‡ǡ‘–‘Ž›
†‡˜‡Ž‘’‡–ǤŠƒ–™ƒ•ƒ•‹‰‹ϐ‹ ƒ– •‡˜‡”ƒŽ„”ƒ†•ǡdz‡š’Žƒ‹•ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡Ǥ †‹†™‡™ƒ– ‘•‹•–‡ ›ǡ„—–ƒŽ•‘ǡ™‡
Šƒ‰‡‹›Ž‹ˆ‡ǡ„‘–Š’”‘ˆ‡••‹‘ƒŽŽ› “Those brands came with whisky ™ƒ–‡™’”‘†— –•Ǥ‡ǯ”‡ƒŽŽƒ„‘—–
and personally. He orchestrated my ‹˜‡–‘”›ǤŠƒ–ǯ•Š‘™‹–•–ƒ”–‡†Ǥ‡ ‡š’‡”‹‡–ƒ–‹‘–‘ƒ‡„‡––‡”
’Žƒ–Š”‘—‰Š‘—––Š‡”‡•–‘ˆ› ƒ”‡‡”ƒ– ™ƒ–‡†–Š‡ϐ‹”•–ƒŒ‘”•‹‰Ž‡Ǧ„ƒ””‡Ž ’”‘†— –•ǡ‹ Ž—†‹‰„Ž‡†‹‰ǡŽ‹‡‹•–‡”
‡ƒ‰”ƒǤ Ž‡ƒ”‡†•‘— Šˆ”‘Š‹ǡ ’”‘†— –‹–Š‡ƒƒ†‹ƒ ƒ–‡‰‘”›Ǥ –™ƒ• ƒǡ–‘ƒ‡‘‡Ǥdz
‘–‘Ž›ƒ„‘—–„Ž‡†‹‰„—–ƒŽ•‘Š‘™–‘ Opening pages: ‘†‡ŽŽ‡†•‘‡™Šƒ–ƒˆ–‡”Žƒ–‘ǯ•Ǥ ‹•–‡”ƒ”‹„—–‡Š‹•‡›‹•
Drew Mayville,
„‡ƒ‰”ƒ ‡ˆ—ŽŽ‡ƒ†‡”Ǥdz ”‹‰‹ƒŽŽ›ǡ–Š‡•–‘’’‡”–‘’™ƒ•ƒƒ’Ž‡ ƒ‡†‹Š‘‘—”‘ˆ‡ƒ‰”ƒǯ•ƒ
Sazerac master
ʹͲͲͶǡƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡ˆ‘ŽŽ‘™‡†ƒ‡™ blender and director Ž‡ƒˆǤ‘™ǡ‹–ǯ•ƒ ƒ”‹„‘—ǡ‘”‡‹Ž‹‡ Bronfman. There are two degrees of
’ƒ–Š–‘ƒŠ‘‡™Š‡”‡–Š‡„—ˆˆƒŽ‘”‘ƒǡ of quality. ™‹–Š–Š‡„”ƒ†ƒ‡Ǥdz separation between Mayville and Sam
accepting the role of master blender Žƒ–‘ǯ•’Žƒ›‡†ƒ”‘Ž‡‹‹•’‹”‹‰ ”‘ˆƒǡ™‹–Š”‘ˆƒ–‡ƒ Š‹‰
ƒ††‹”‡ –‘”‘ˆ“—ƒŽ‹–›ƒ–ƒœ‡”ƒ ǯ• These pages, from –Š‡’ƒ ƒ‰‹‰ǡ„—––Šƒ–ǯ•™Š‡”‡–Š‡ ƒ™‡Ǥ –ǯ•‡‘—‰Š†‹•–ƒ ‡–Šƒ–ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡
—ˆˆƒŽ‘”ƒ ‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›Ǥ•ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡ left to right: •‹‹Žƒ”‹–›‡†•Ǥ –‡”•‘ˆϐŽƒ˜‘—”ǡ‹– †‘‡•ǯ–•™‡ƒ”Ž‹‡ƒ•ƒ‹Ž‘”ǡƒ•”‘ˆƒ
Mister Sam Tribute
‘–‡•ǡ„Ž‡†‹‰‡”‹ ƒ™Š‹•‹‡• was another Mayville creation †‹†ǡ„—– Ž‘•‡‡‘—‰Š–‘ƒ„•‘”„
Whiskey; Labelling,
ƒ†„‘—”„‘‹•†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–ˆ”‘„Ž‡†‹‰ filling, and waxing destined to bring Canadian whisky ‰‡‡”ƒ–‹‘•‘ˆ‡ƒ‰”ƒǯ•„Ž‡†‹‰
ƒƒ†‹ƒ™Š‹•›ǣDz ‹”•–ǡ‹–ǯ•‹‰Ž‹‰ bottles of ‘‡ȋ“—ƒ†”—’‡†ƒŽȌ•–‡’ Ž‘•‡”–‘ •‹ŽŽ•Ǥƒœ‡”ƒ ǯ•Ž‡ƒ†‡”•Š‹’ƒŽŽ‘™‡†Š‹
whiskies. I always advise people that Caribou Crossing. the forefront. –‘ϐŽ‡š–Š‡„Ž‡†‹‰—• Ž‡•†‡˜‡Ž‘’‡†
ƒŽŽ™Š‹•‹‡•ƒ”‡„Ž‡†‡†‡š ‡’–ˆ‘”
•‹‰Ž‡„ƒ””‡Ž•Ǥ”ƒ†‹–‹‘ƒŽŽ›ǡ–Š‡„‹‰‰‡•–
difference between the two is that there
‹•‘„ƒ•‡™Š‹•›™‹–Š„‘—”„‘Ǥ‘†ƒ›
™‡ǯ”‡™‘”‹‰–‘™ƒ”†•‰”‡›‹‰–Š‡
difference between American whiskey
ƒ†ƒƒ†‹ƒ™Š‹•›Ǥ‡„‡Ž‹‡˜‡–Šƒ–
ƒƒ†‹ƒ™Š‹•›‹•—†‡””ƒ–‡†ƒ†
Šƒ•‰”‡ƒ–’‘–‡–‹ƒŽǡŒ—•–Ž‹‡„‘—”„‘
™ƒ•ƒˆ‡™›‡ƒ”•ƒ‰‘ǡƒ†™‡ǯ”‡’—––‹‰
ƒ™ƒ›™Š‹•‹‡•‹ƒƒ†ƒ–Šƒ–™‹ŽŽ„Ž—”
–Š‡Ž‹‡•Ǥdz
A lot has changed since Mayville
ϐ‹”•–•–ƒ”–‡†™‹–Šƒœ‡”ƒ Ǥ‘—”„‘ǯ•
’‘’—Žƒ”‹–›Šƒ†•›”‘ ‡–‡†ǡ™‹–Šƒ›
‘ˆ—ˆˆƒŽ‘”ƒ ‡ǯ•™Š‹•‹‡•Ž‡ƒ†‹‰
–Š‡ Šƒ”‰‡Ǥƒ‡••— Šƒ•ƒ‰Ž‡ƒ”‡ǡ
‡ŽŽ‡”ƒ†Žƒ–‘ǯ•„‡ ƒ‡ ‘˜‡–‡†‹
–Š‡™Š‹•› ‘—‹–›Ǥ‡–™Š‡–Š‘•‡
™Š‹•‹‡•Š‡ƒ–‡†–Š‡ƒ”‡–ǡƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡ǯ•
‡‰‘•–ƒ›‡† ‘‘ŽǤDz—” —•–‘‡”•™ƒ–
–‘„‡‡š ‹–‡†ƒ†™‘™‡†Ǥ ˆ›‘—’”‘˜‹†‡
–Š‡™‹–Š‰”‡ƒ–Ǧ“—ƒŽ‹–›’”‘†— –•ǡ–Š‡›
™‹ŽŽ ‘‡ǤdzŠ‡ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡•–ƒ”–‡†ƒ–
—ˆˆƒŽ‘”ƒ ‡ǡƒœ‡”ƒ ™ƒ•‘–•–”‘‰
in the Canadian whisky category. The
’Žƒ™ƒ•–‘„—‹Ž†•–”‡‰–Š‘˜‡”–‹‡Ǥ
He recognises that there is still a lot to

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 45


Interview Drew Mayville

This page,
clockwise from left:
Drew Mayville
admires a bottle of
Caribou Crossing on
the hand-bottling
line; Examining a
tailbox in the still
room; Drew Mayville
with a selection of
Buffalo Trace and
Sazerac whiskeys.

‘˜‡”Š‹•ͶͲǦ’Ž—•Ǧ›‡ƒ” ƒ”‡‡”‹–Š‹• whisky early in my career then blending


‘ ‡ǦƒǦ›‡ƒ””‡Ž‡ƒ•‡Ǥ ‡”‹ ƒ™Š‹•‡›ƒ†„‘—”„‘Ǥ 
“This blend symbolises me and „‡Ž‹‡˜‡ Šƒ˜‡–Š‡„‡•–‘ˆ„‘–Š™‘”Ž†•Ǥdz
›„ƒ ‰”‘—†™Š‹Ž‡„‡‹‰ƒ–”‹„—–‡ ‘–Š‡””‡ ‡–Ȃ„—–ƒŽŽǦ‡”‹ ƒȂ
™Š‹•›Ǥ ™ƒ•„‘”ƒƒƒ†‹ƒǡƒ† ’”‡‹—„Ž‡†‹‰’”‘Œ‡ –‹•ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡ǯ•
‘™ ǯƒ†—ƒŽ ‹–‹œ‡Ǥ –‡š’”‡••‡•› ‹‰ƒ–—”‡Ž‡†ǡ”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†‹ʹͲʹʹ
”‘‘–•ƒ•ƒƒƒ†‹ƒƒ†› —””‡– –Š”‘—‰Šƒœ‡”ƒ Ǧ‘™‡†‹†‡’‡†‡–
Š‘‡ƒ•ƒ‡”‹ ƒ„‡ ƒ—•‡ —•‡† bottler The Last Drop to celebrate
both US and Canadian whiskies to make his 40th anniversary in the whisky
–Š‹•–”‹„—–‡„Ž‡†Ǥ –ǯ•ƒ„Ž‡†‘ˆ› ‹†—•–”›Ǥ ‡—•‡†ƒ”ƒ‰‡‘ˆ˜‹–ƒ‰‡
‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡•„Ž‡†‹‰ƒƒ†‹ƒ™Š‹•› ‡–— ›•–”ƒ‹‰Š–™Š‹•‡›•‹ Ž—†‹‰
ƒ†‡”‹ ƒ™Š‹•‡›Ǥdz ‡Ž‡ˆ–‹•–‡” „‘—”„‘ƒ†”›‡ˆ”‘–Š‡—ˆˆƒŽ‘”ƒ ‡
ƒ— —–ƒ†—ϐ‹Ž–‡”‡†–‘ƒš‹‹•‡ ‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›–‘ ”‡ƒ–‡–Š‡„Ž‡†ǡ‘ˆ™Š‹ Š
ϐŽƒ˜‘—”‹–‡•‹–›ƒ†ƒ– Š”‘ˆƒǯ• ˆ‡™‡”–ŠƒͳǡͷͲͲ„‘––Ž‡•™‡”‡”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡†Ǥ
— —–ƒ†—ϐ‹Ž–‡”‡†’‡”•‘ƒŽ‹–›Ǥ „‘˜‡‡˜‡”›–Š‹‰‡Ž•‡ǡƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡ǯ•
Mayville decided to blend US and ”‘Ž‡•–Š”‘—‰Š‘—–Š‹• ƒ”‡‡”Šƒ˜‡„‡‡
Canadian whiskies to combine the ƒ„‘—– ‘•‹•–‡ ›ƒ†“—ƒŽ‹–›Ǥ–
crème de la crème from both sides of ƒœ‡”ƒ ǡ–Š‹•‹•‘ˆ’”‹‡‹’‘”–ƒ ‡Ǥ—–
–Š‡„‘”†‡”ǡƒ•‡ƒ‰”ƒ™‘—Ž†Šƒ˜‡†‘‡ Ž‹‡Š‹•—”–—”‹‰’ƒ”‡–•ǡƒœ‡”ƒ Šƒ•
back in the day. “I wanted it to celebrate ‡ ‘—”ƒ‰‡†ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡–‘–”›‡™–Š‹‰•Ǥ
the best whiskies from Canada and the ‹•–‡”ƒ‹•Œ—•–‘‡‡šƒ’Ž‡‹ƒŽ‘‰
ƒ††‡‘•–”ƒ–‡–Šƒ––Š‡•—‹• Ž‹•–‘ˆ™Š‹•‹‡•ǤDzŠ‡”‡ƒ”‡ ‘—–Ž‡••
„‡––‡”–Šƒ‹–•‹†‹˜‹†—ƒŽ’ƒ”–•ȂŒ—•– ‘–Š‡”•–Šƒ–‘—”ǡƒ””‘™ǡŠƒ•
Ž‹‡ƒ™‘—Ž†Šƒ˜‡™ƒ–‡†ǤŠ‡„Ž‡† ‘–‘Ž›•—’’‘”–‡†„—–‡ ‘—”ƒ‰‡†ǡdz
”‡ ‘‰‹•‡•–Šƒ–”ƒ†‹†„Ž—”–Š‡ ƒ›˜‹ŽŽ‡•ƒ›•ǤDz‡‘ˆ–Š‡ϐ‹”•–’”‘Œ‡ –•
Ž‹‡••‘‡™Šƒ–ǡƒ†™‡ǯ”‡ ‘–‹—‹‰ ’—”•—‡†™‹–ŠŠ‹•ƒ’’”‘˜ƒŽ‹•—ˆˆƒŽ‘
–Šƒ––”ƒ†‹–‹‘Ǥdz ”ƒ ‡‘—”„‘”‡ƒǡ™Š‹ Š‹•
‹•–‘”‹ ƒŽŽ›ǡ‡ƒ‰”ƒ†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”‹‡• Š—‰‡Ž›’‘’—Žƒ”Ǥ ƒ•‡†Š‹™Šƒ–ƒ‰‡
dotted the globe with a concentration in ‘ˆ„‘—”„‘ •Š‘—Ž†„Ž‡†‹–‘–Š‹•
ƒƒ†ƒƒ†–Š‡‹–‡†–ƒ–‡•ǤŠ‹•› ’”‘†— –Ǥ ‡•ƒ‹†ǡǮ—–‹–‘‹–™Šƒ––ƒ•–‡•
ϐŽ‘™‡†ƒ ”‘••–Š‡„‘”†‡”ˆ‘”‹‰Ž‹‰‹ –Š‡„‡•–ǤǯŠƒ–ǯ•‘‡”‡ƒ•‘™Š› ǯ
„Ž‡†•™‹–Š‘—–ƒ›‘‡„ƒ––‹‰ƒ‡›‡ǤDz  ƒ–ƒœ‡”ƒ Ǥ –ǯ•ƒŽŽƒ„‘—––Š‡–ƒ•–‡ǥ‡
„‡Ž‹‡˜‡–Š‹•„Ž‡†™‘—Ž†Šƒ˜‡Šƒ’’‡‡† want to celebrate the art of blending
‹ˆ‡ƒ‰”ƒ™‡”‡•–‹ŽŽ‹‡š‹•–‡ ‡ǤǤǤ –ǯ•ƒ ™‹–Šƒƒ†‹ƒ™Š‹•›Ǥdz†™Š‹•›ˆƒ•
© SAZERAC

blend that represents not only Seagram who have tasted Mister Sam seldom
„—–›•‡Žˆǡ„›„Ž‡†‹‰ƒƒ†‹ƒ —––‡”ƒ†‹• ‘—”ƒ‰‹‰™‘”†Ǥ

46 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky Tasting 7KH,QÀXHQFHRI0XVLF

6FLHQWL¿FVWXGLHV
KDYHSURYHGWKDW
DXGLWRU\VWLPXODWLRQ
SDUWLFXODUO\PXVLF

D
LPSDFWVRXURWKHU ave Broom only needed 15 minutes to host one of the most
VHQVHV±DQGZKLVN\ impressive tastings I’ve ever attended. The award-winning
author and whisky writer kicked the experience off by
FRPPXQLFDWRUVDUH having his audience, from the 2019 edition of The Whisky
SXWWLQJWKLVIDFWWR Show in London, don wireless headphones. Then he handed
us notecards with words such as ‘salty’, ‘sweet’, ‘bitter’, ‘metallic’, and
FUHDWLYHXVHWKURXJK ‘mineral’ before serving us a dram of Talisker Storm.
As we tasted the whisky, he played a variety of musical soundscapes
PXOWLVHQVRU\WDVWLQJV into the headsets. As he played each track, we silently held up the cards
DQGH[SHULHQFHV ™‡ˆ‡Ž–‘•–ƒ’’”‘’”‹ƒ–‡–‘‡š’”‡••–Š‡ƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•™‡™‡”‡
experiencing from the whisky. Despite the fact that we were all drinking
the same liquid throughout the tasting, with every track he played
™‡‡ƒ ŠŠ‡Ž†—’†‹ˆˆ‡”‡– ƒ”†•ƒ•–Š‡ƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•™‡™‡”‡
WORDS FELIPE SCHRIEBERG
sensing in the whisky radically changed as a result of the sounds we
were hearing.
–‹•‘•‡ ”‡––Šƒ–•‘—†Ȃƒ†—•‹ ǡ•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ ƒŽŽ›Ȃ ƒ•Š‹ˆ––Š‡™ƒ›
in which people perceive the world around them. However, over the
past 10 years there have been ever more experiments and events that
drill down on the relationship between music and whisky and its effect
and impact on drinkers’ enjoyment of both. The combination not only
‘’‡•—’‡™‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡•ˆ‘”‡‡†”‹‡”•–Š”‹ŽŽ‡†ƒ–ϐ‹†‹‰‡™
ways to enjoy whisky, but also creates fresh opportunities, both
creative and commercial, for brands and producers.

48 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky Tasting 7KH,QÀXHQFHRI0XVLF

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 49


Whisky Tasting 7KH,QÀXHQFHRI0XVLF

An initial foray into this cross-current sounds bring out sourness while
was led by Oxford professor Dr Charles simultaneously enhancing acidity.
Spence. An expert on crossmodality and To Broom, music not only serves as a
perception, he helped lead a ground- universal trigger for people to discover
breaking 2013 tasting with 441 guests. ƒ†Š‹‰ŠŽ‹‰Š–ϐŽƒ˜‘—”ǡ„—–‹–ƒŽ•‘
In collaboration with The Singleton, increases their ability to relate to fellow
he and his colleagues created three tasters or drinkers through the whisky.
differently themed rooms, each with Especially as they become familiar with
its own custom soundscape – which whisky, audiences are far more engaged
changed guests’ perceptions of the via the music angle than through a
ƒ”‘ƒƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”‘ˆ–Š‡‹†‡–‹ ƒŽ more ‘orthodox’ tasting, where a brand
whisky tasted in all three rooms. ambassador often dictates what is
In 2016, Spence explored the
combination of music and whisky
‘”‡•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ ƒŽŽ›™Š‡Œƒœœ–”ƒ •ƒ†
curated whiskies from Glenrothes were
•‡”˜‡†–‘‰—‡•–•ƒ–ƒ‘†‘Œƒœœ Ž—„ǡ
while their observations were recorded
for analysis.
Inspired by Spence’s research,
Broom has gone further, hosting many
pioneering tastings combining music
and whisky – although his goal is to
create special visceral moments with
whisky for consumers rather than for
the purpose of an academic study.
‘The way I try to explain it is that
everyone is synaesthesic in some way,”
he says. “All our senses are relaying meant to be smelled and tasted in the
information to our brain all the time, glass. Instead, music helps guide and
so there’s always interaction between enrich a shared experience.
them. Colour is a fascinating example. If Broom loves that this approach
you go into a restaurant with red walls, accelerates audience engagement: “You
the food will tend to taste spicier. The get people talking a lot faster and the
shape of crockery or bottles – all that discussions are a lot more interesting.”
can relay information into the brain ‡ƒŽ•‘ϐ‹†•–Šƒ–—•‹‰—•‹ Š‡Ž’•
about the way it might taste.” transcend language barriers when
Through the many tastings he has hosting tastings for non-English-
conducted around the world, Broom speaking audiences, helping to create
has reached a fascinating conclusion: an interactive experience avoiding the
though the experience of tasting whisky clumsiness and delays that often come
and listening to music is entirely with using a translator.
subjective, his guests’ noses and Broom turns music into a facilitator
tastebuds respond quite similarly to for creating a shared language of
his musical whisky experiments across ™Š‹•›ƒ”‘ƒ•ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•Ǥ ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ
countries and cultures. music can also be a powerful tool
‘”‡šƒ’Ž‡ǡŠ‡ϐ‹†•–Šƒ–Š‹‰Š‡”Ǧ for whisky-based education and
pitched sounds such as bells bring entertainment – that is something I
out sweetness. Slow and legato explore professionally as one half of
(smooth) melodies do the same. Brass –Š‡„Ž—‡•†—‘Š‡Š›–Šƒ†‘‘œ‡
instruments elicit bitter and sour Project. During the performances of
notes. Low-pitched sounds emphasise our show Two Guys, Three Drams,
umami (savoury notes). Dissonant we use what we call ‘sequences’ to

50 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky Tasting 7KH,QÀXHQFHRI0XVLF

holistically combine music and whisky recording a ‘whisky soundtrack’. His


for our audience. past projects include tastings pairing
For example, while our guests sip on •‘‰•ƒ†ƒ”–‹•–•™‹–Š•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ ™Š‹•‹‡•ǡ
a Scotch, we perform a cover of the John and using a vintage recording booth
Lee Hooker classic ‘One Scotch, One to record a folk singer and then print a
Bourbon, One Beer’, but we constantly vinyl of the session over the course of
interrupt the song to squabble between a whisky tasting (including applause
ourselves and explain the differences from the audience in the recording).
between the three. His next undertaking sees him join
In another sequence, our guests take forces with producer Dean Honer to
a sip of heavily peated whisky, hold it record the sounds of the Glen Scotia
on the palate, and on our instruction distillery. Using the best available
swallow the moment we start playing microphones, Honer and Ridley used
a particularly raucous song. The ‘found sounds’ to create a distillery
combination of smoke and aural punch soundscape covering the full production
is potent. process that will be featured in a tasting
The award for grandest spectacle during the upcoming Campbeltown
combining music and whisky has to Malts Festival.
go to Navigate The Blood, an opera Ridley describes whisky distilleries
featuring original music composed by as a paradise for sound geeks. “I became Previous pages: While many musicians have entered
Scottish indie band Admiral Fallow. obsessed when I started visiting The Rhythm and the whisky industry with their own
Telling the story of a family that distilleries – the high-pitched frequency Booze Project (Paul brands (see: Bob Dylan’s Heaven’s Door
Archibald and Felipe
owns a small whisky distillery, it was of the still room and low rumbles when and Yelawolf’s Creek Water Whiskey,
Schrieberg) perform
performed almost exclusively in actual the mash tuns are operating, or when on stage. among others), some have sought to
whisky distilleries around Scotland, casks are rolling by,” he said. “I think incorporate their art into production.
as well as a limited number of other it’s brilliant and no-one really ever These pages, One of the best examples belongs to
venues in 2018. recorded these sounds.” from top: metal titans Metallica. Their whiskey,
By incorporating whisky into a live Drawing on many hours of recorded Whisky writer and Blackened, blends a mix of bourbons,
author Dave Broom;
performance, new audiences that might audio, the duo also created a backing ryes and other whiskeys before further
Metallica’s Blackened
not typically be interested in whisky track for an upcoming single by Scottish whiskey. maturation in ex-brandy barrels.
are introduced in a unique way, while singer-songwriter Jenny Sturgeon, The barrels are then blasted in the
whisky fans are provided with a new who wrote the lyrics at the distillery warehouse by large speakers playing
platform to appreciate it. and recorded vocals by singing into Metallica songs. The power of the
© SAM CHRISTIE | DAVE BROOM | BLACKENED WHISKEY

Drinks writer, presenter and one of the distillery’s stainless steel sound waves from the music leads
musician Neil Ridley takes a different washbacks. (“They give this incredibly to the vibration of the liquid, which
approach in his work combining music cavernous reverb,” says Ridley.) means more contact between liquid and
and whisky. He is more interested in Then there’s the whisky itself. wooden cask. The result is legitimate
metal-music-aged whiskey.
It is impossible to overstate music’s
P
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KHOSVJ
JXLGHD DQGHHQULFFK ability to enhance whisky’s aromas
ƒ†ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•ǤŽŽ–Š‡•‡‡šƒ’Ž‡•‘Ž›
DVKKDUHGGHH[SHULLHQ
QFH scratch the surface of what can be
accomplished by combining them.

52 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


SPECIAL PROMOTION Breckenridge

WORDS JESSIE UNRUH

Colorado’s award-
winning distillery
Breckenridge Distillery was founded on an
overwhelming obsession with whiskey

S
ince coming online in 2008 ‘Ž‘”ƒ†‘ƒ†‹•‘–‡†ƒ•‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡–‘’ the modern-American cuisine and
ƒ†”‡Ž‡ƒ•‹‰‹–•ϐ‹”•–˜‘†ƒ craft distilleries in the nation. Led by Šƒ†Ǧ ”ƒˆ–‡† ‘ –ƒ‹Ž•–‘‡š’Ž‘”‹‰
and bourbon three years ‹–•ϐŽƒ‰•Š‹’„‘—”„‘ǡ–Š‡”‡ ‡”‹†‰‡ –Š‡‹”ƒ –‹˜‡’”‘†— –‹‘ˆƒ ‹Ž‹–›ƒ†
Žƒ–‡”ǡ”‡ ‡”‹†‰‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”› team offer more than 20 spirits, which „Ž‡†‹‰›‘—”‘™™Š‹•‡›™‹–Š–Š‡
“—‹ Ž›„‡ ƒ‡‘‡–Š‡‘•– ƒ”‡ƒ˜ƒ‹Žƒ„Ž‡‹ͷͲ•–ƒ–‡•Ǥ ‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǯ•‡š’‡”–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”•ǡ‡ƒ Š˜‹•‹–‹•
Š‹‰ŠŽ›ƒ™ƒ”†‡†’”‘†— ‡”•‘ˆϐ‹‡•’‹”‹–• Š‡‘Ž–™ƒ•ƒ•‡†™Šƒ–Š‡Ž‘˜‡• ƒ‹‡”•‹˜‡‡š’‡”‹‡ ‡Ǥ
in the USA. Noted as the World’s Highest most about his job, he said, “there breckenridgedistillery.com.
‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›ǡ‹–Šƒ•„‡‡ƒ‡†‘Ž‘”ƒ†‘ ƒ”‡‘„‘—†ƒ”‹‡•ˆ‘” ”‡ƒ–‹˜‹–›Ǥdz
Š‹•‡›‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‘ˆ–Š‡‡ƒ”ȋˆ‘—” Something guests will notice on a
times), winner of Best American Blended ˜‹•‹––‘”‡ ‡”‹†‰‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹
Š‹•‡›ȋ‹‡–‹‡•Ȍǡ‘—”„‘‘ˆ–Š‡ ”‡ ‡”‹†‰‡ǡ‘Ž‘”ƒ†‘Ǥ
‡ƒ”ƒ†‘”Ž†ǯ•‡•– ‹Ǥ –Šƒ•ƒŽ•‘™‘ ”‡ ‡”‹†‰‡‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›™ƒ•ƒ‡†
–Š”‡‡ ‘•‘ˆŠ‹•›‡”‹ ƒ™ƒ”†•ǡƒ ƒ ‘‘ˆŠ‹•›ǡ‘–‡†ƒ•Šƒ˜‹‰
Š—‰‡ƒ Š‹‡˜‡‡–‹‹–•‡ƒ”Ž›ƒ‰‡Ǥ ‘‡‘ˆ–Š‡–‘’˜‹•‹–‘”ƒ––”ƒ –‹‘•‹
”›ƒ‘Ž–ǡˆ‘—†‡”ƒ†ǡ ƒ ‡”‹ ƒǤ ‡”‡ǡ‰—‡•–•ƒ”‡–ƒ‡‘
„‘ƒ•–Šƒ˜‹‰–Š‡Žƒ”‰‡•–†‹•–‹ŽŽ‡”›‹ a journey through the senses. From

Our reputation is built upon the quality of the product: color, density,
QRVHPRXWKIHHOÀDYRUDQG¿QLVK´VD\V1ROW³,I,FDQ¶WZLQ\RXRYHU
based upon those factors, then it shouldn’t be in our portfolio

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 53


Interview Ernie Button

A NEW WORDS ALEX MENNIE

PERSPECTIVE
Each distiller will tell you that their whisky has its own
unique character, but through his photography project
and accompanying book, The Art of Whisky, Ernie Button
is putting this assertion to the test

F
or centuries, people have looked for ’ƒ––‡”‘ˆϐ‹‡‰”‡›Ž‹‡•‘–Š‡„‘––‘‘ˆƒ
answers at the bottom of a glass. For an empty whisky tumbler that had been left out
artist seeking inspiration, or a scientist overnight. With his studio ready to go, he shot a
looking to understand the mysteries of ”‘ŽŽ‘ˆ‡†‹—Ǧˆ‘”ƒ–ϐ‹Žƒ†™ƒ‹–‡†‡ƒ‰‡”Ž›
the universe, alcohol has often provided for the results which, he says, he knew could be
a muse. But it is where those two worlds collide something wonderful and exciting.
that Ernie Button has found the space to create a Over the past 15 years, the set-up has evolved
series of unique and otherworldly photographs by but the raw materials remain the same. Now,
experimenting with little more than coloured Button has produced a book, The Art of Whisky:
light, the residue left in a tumbler, and his own The Vanishing Spirits of Single Malt Scotch, tracking
inquisitive mind. his exploration of this previously unexplored art
Button already had plenty of experience working form to generate an extraordinary log of images.
on close photography – from pictures of agates for Among these, the overwhelming theme is outer
a friend, to his Cerealism project which created space; with galaxies and ethereal space landscapes
evocative landscapes through the creative use of appearing thanks to little more than a variety of
breakfast cereal – when he noticed an interesting coloured lights, lens extenders and the artist’s
Interview Ernie Button

creativity, which permits the occasional tilt of the


glass to guide the drying liquid.
While Button’s work is primarily pursued from
the artist’s perspective, his natural curiosity has
ƒŽ•‘’”‘’–‡†ƒˆƒ‹”ƒ‘—–‘ˆ• ‹‡–‹ϐ‹ ‹–‡”‡•–
in the process as well. A chance email exchange
with Dr Howard Stone, a professor of mechanical
and aerospace engineering at Princeton University,
led to a research project which has shown that the
evaporation patterns of whisky are determined by
polymeric compounds added in the manufacturing
process – most likely the effect of the oak cask that
ƒŽ•‘†‘‡••‘— Š–‘‘—Ž†–Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”
‘ˆ–Š‡ϐ‹‹•Š‡††”ƒǤ

Science, however, does not appear to have all


the answers just yet. For instance, it remains
unclear why grape-based spirits and even wine
ƒ•Ǧϐ‹‹•Š‡†™Š‹•‹‡•’”‘†— ‡Ž‹––Ž‡‘”‘’ƒ––‡”
under Button’s lights. “I’ve tried brandy, I’ve tried
Cognac and because of the grapes, it won’t produce
a pattern, even though it’s high ABV,” he says.
Once you get into whisky, however, patterns and
‡˜‡–Š‡‡•„‡‰‹–‘‡‡”‰‡ǤDz –ǯ•†‡ϐ‹‹–‡Ž›ƒ
interplay of the grain as well as the cask,” Button
explains. “Once you start to play around with
the malt or the casks, you’re going to see slight
changes.” He refers to The Macallan, explaining
that the heavily sherried malt produces “straighter
lines that are a bit more diffuse. The Macallan will
produce a pattern, but it will have less repetitive
and thicker lines.”
Through all of this, Button is creating a
taxonomy. The extent to which he can recall the
patterns and distinguishing features of different
whiskies is remarkable. “Each whisky has a unique
ϐ‹‰‡”’”‹–ǡdzŠ‡‡š’Žƒ‹•ǤDzŠ‡’‡›•‹†‡™Š‹•‹‡•
look a little bit different from the Islay whiskies
which look a little bit different from the island
whiskies. There are some subtle differences
which I can pick out.”

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 55


Interview Ernie Button

For example, peated whisky results a distinguishing feature


in diffuse milky lines which require within the industry, which
—––‘–‘™‘”Šƒ”†‡”–‘ϐ‹‡••‡–Š‡ distiller would not want to see
ϐ‹ƒŽ‹ƒ‰‡ǡ™Š‹Ž‡‘Ž†‡”™Š‹•›ƒ’’‡ƒ”• ‹–•„”ƒ†ǯ•‹†‡Ž‹„Ž‡ϐ‹‰‡”’”‹–
to give denser lines and patterns, and writ large on its packaging?
new-make spirit shows its potential So far, the only brand to bite has
even through the lens: “You can see been The Macallan, with Button
the evolution – it’s like an embryonic honoured to be featured as part of the
shot of where the whisky maturation is brand’s Masters of Photography series,
going, seeing these broad lines starting producing a set of 12 images of The
to develop. As it’s getting older, it’s Macallan to be used on limited-edition
starting to add in lines, so the organic packaging sold in 14 markets around Opening pages his favourite, and conveniently tend to
material from the cask is being added.” the world – a project that came about and this page: photograph the best.
One of the most interesting from another innocent email. A selection of images When it comes to the choice of
from Ernie Button’s
questions raised by the project is the “I’m a big believer of trying to just whisky to photograph, Button admits
photographic
extent to which Buttons’ ever-growing make contact with people and I don’t project Vanishing that his principal rationale is whether
taxonomy can tell us something about have a fear of emailing people,” says Spirits, which it’s something he and his wife want
the whisky-making process, or even be Button, when explaining how the catalogues the to try: “There have been bottles that
—•‡†–‘‹†‡–‹ˆ›•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ ’”‘†— –•Ǥ ‡ project came about. That email, which patterns that the I will pick up to experiment with, but
is, however, characteristically modest included images Button had already residue of different primarily, we’re always going to taste
whiskies leaves as it
about any such suggestion. “I’m not produced using Macallan single malt, them. We’re always going to drink it.”
dries in a glass.
•—”‡Š‘™‹–™‹ŽŽ„‡„‡‡ϐ‹ ‹ƒŽ–‘ƒ›‘‡ resulted in a simple response from Those experiments have helped
but me, but it is fascinating how each the brand: “Fantastic. Can you make broaden his whisky horizons, and after
whisky gives a little bit of a signature.” more?” Happy to oblige, Button spent a several visits to Scotland, Button knows
This is arguably something that whole summer shooting The Macallan ™Šƒ–Š‡Ž‹‡•–‘ϐ‹†‹Š‹•‰Žƒ••‘”‹Š‹•
could interest more producers. With for the project, which was no hardship studio. He won’t commit to whether the
distillery character being seen as such given Speyside whiskies are usually whiskies he most enjoys drinking are
the ones that produce the best images,
ƒŽ–Š‘—‰Š–Š‡Ž‹„‡–™‡‡–Š‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•
that develop during maturation and the
lines that appear in the photos suggest
it may just be possible.
“There is some merit to that
thinking,” Button posits, “because it’s
all being affected by that maturation
process and when that cask was
distilled. But I started this process
just from a purely photographic and
aesthetic perspective – I want the
best image possible – so whatever the
...which distiller would whisky, I’m putting the best image
forward. It’s fascinating to me, this
not want to see its brand’s process, and so every time I go into the
LQGHOLEOH¿QJHUSULQWZULW studio I want something beautiful to
come out of it.”
ODUJHRQLWVSDFNDJLQJ" Ultimately, Vanishing Spirits is an
art-led project which just happens to
have taught us a little about the spirits
™‡Ž‘˜‡Ǥ—–—––‘‹•ǯ–”—•Š‹‰–‘ϐ‹†
more answers, concluding that it’s the
© ERNIE BUTTON

exploration that excites him. It is the


element of mystery that propels him to
the bottom of each glass.

56 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky Bars Eddie’s Klub

WORDS ANN HOLMES

Join the
KLUB
After honing his bar craft in London, including
at whisky mecca Milroy’s of Soho, Eddie DeSousa
is determined to spread the good word about the
water of life in his native Portugal

T
he streets of Porto on a welcoming a steady stream of both whisky
summer’s evening are ƒϐ‹ ‹‘ƒ†‘•ƒ†‡™„‹‡•Ǥ –Ž‘‘•‡ˆˆ‘”–Ž‡••ǡ
packed with local drinkers but it’s clear that Eddie’s years of experience
ϐŽ‘‘†‹‰‹–‘–Š‡’‹ –—”‡•“—‡ – dating back to his move to London in 2011 –
city’s wine bars. But for have played a huge part in the bar’s success.
those seeking something “I started working in a bar in central
other than an Aperol Spritz London, where I had access to what I thought
or a large glass of Douro Valley vino, one venue was an incredible offering of around 10 malts,”
worth a stop is Eddie’s Klub – considered Š‡•ƒ‹†ǤDz ƒŽ•‘Šƒ†ƒϐŽƒ–ƒ–‡™Š‘ƒŽ•‘”‡ƒŽŽ›
‘”–—‰ƒŽǯ•ϐ‹”•–™Š‹•›•’‡ ‹ƒŽ‹•–„ƒ”Ǥ liked whisky, so anytime I was off, we would
Founder-owner Eddie DeSousa returned to get a bottle and sit in the house and just chat
Portugal from the UK in 2020 to introduce his about everything. Each time we did this we
penchant for a good dram to his home country. always got something different, and from that
After years mulling over the idea, the spare moment on my head just exploded with so
hours afforded to him – and many others – ƒ›†‹ˆˆ‡”‡–’‘••‹„‹Ž‹–‹‡•‘ˆ™Š‹•›ϐŽƒ˜‘—”
†—”‹‰–Š‡ϐ‹”•– ‘”‘ƒ˜‹”—•Ž‘ †‘™‰ƒ˜‡ and I started getting really into it.”
him the time to turn thoughts into action. Four years later, a family bereavement
In researching for his venture, Eddie gave Eddie the necessary nudge to pursue his
discovered a gap in the Portuguese market interest in the whisky scene. “My mum passed
for venues dedicated to whisky. “I would away and I had a bit of a shake in my life. I
see there’s rum bars, gin bars, and there are needed to change something as I was really
‡˜‡–‡“—‹Žƒ„ƒ”•ǡ„—––Š‡”‡™ƒ•‘–Š‹‰™‹–Š unhappy with what I was doing and how life
whisky,” he said. was going.”
“I realised that although there was a market, Turning in his notice, Eddie journeyed to
there wasn’t a bar-leading specialist in Scotland to train as a whisky ambassador.
Portugal. So, it kind of just made sense – I had A managerial role at restaurant Boisdale of
this idea, my expertise, my knowledge, [and] Canary Wharf helped to sharpen his skills
my experience that I could just take with me upon return, but it was a later position at
and apply.” ‹Ž”‘›ǯ•‘ˆ‘Š‘–Šƒ–’”‘˜‡†–‘„‡–Š‡†‡ϐ‹‹‰
Now just over a year old, Eddie’s Klub is moment in his career.

58 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 59
“Milroy’s is the centre of the whisky In January 2022, Eddie’s Klub opened
™‘”Ž†‹–Š‡Ȃ‹–™ƒ•“—‹–‡‡ƒ•›–‘ to the public. Months of graft have
drink from everybody’s knowledge resulted in a warm and friendly venue
there,” he said. unlike anything else in the country.
“We were geeks and we were proud Eddie says the place resembles a dive
of that. That was the coolest part of bar (“we’re just missing the jukebox,
all: we would be proud when someone the beers, and the live band,” he jokes)
would come in and say, ‘Oh, you guys but it’s he and his sidekick bartender,
are such geeks.’ We were like, ‘Yeah João, who have injected personality
man, thank you.’ This is the thing – into it. The pair effortlessly provide a
it’s passion.” It was this passion that comfortable yet educational whisky
planted the seed for Eddie’s Klub. experience to everyone who walks
When Eddie packed up his belongings through the door.
to return to his hometown of Guimarães “One of the most important things
in northern Portugal over Christmas for me is whisky doesn’t choose people,
2020, his dream started to take shape. people choose whisky,” Eddie said.
‡ƒ†™‹ˆ‡ƒ–”› Œƒ–‘‘–Š‡‹”ϐ‹”•– “Someone once asked me if I could get
steps into the project six months later, them a more ‘girly’ whisky; I told them
taking on a completely blank-canvas there’s no such thing. There’s no gender
premises in the bustling city of Porto. in it. Some people like it, and some
The pair worked hard to build a people do not.”
place that would stand out between The Klub currently has a collection of
extravagant cocktail venues and bars around 150 whiskies including a large
selling beer for a euro. “The bar is as range of Scotch single malts and Eddie’s
much [my wife’s] as it is mine,” Eddie top picks from Ireland, America, Japan,
said. “We would measure everything 50 Wales, India, and more. Each bottle is
to 100 times to make sure things would hand picked to guarantee a special and
ϐ‹–ǡƒ†‡˜‡”›–Š‹‰™ƒ•„—‹Ž– ‘• ‹‘—•Ž› constantly evolving offering to drinkers.
to make sure if we wanted, we could “It is very important to me that
take everything down and leave the every whisky has a story behind
place exactly as it was. it – either my own personal story or
“We did it in a very humble way, but something about the whisky itself that
we did it with a lot of character and a makes it interesting,” Eddie explained.
lot of love. And we always keep in mind “Education for people has to have the
that we can only improve.” ‘cool’ factor. Without this, people aren’t

60 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky Bars Eddie’s Klub

These pages, really interested in what you have to “—‹–‡ƒŽ‘––Š‡•‡†ƒ›•Ǥ –ǯ•ƒŽŽ„ƒ•‡†


clockwise from say. It’s a work that doesn’t stop, it on that feeling of whoever you are,
top left: always builds up. I’m always hunting wherever you come from, if you are
Take a seat at the
ˆ‘”‡™–Š‹‰•ƒ†–”›‹‰–‘ϐ‹‰—”‡‘—– ƒ‰‘‘†’‡”•‘›‘—™‹ŽŽƒŽ™ƒ›•ϐ‹†ƒ
bar; Eddie (right)
began his whisky what I can offer that will give people the friendly place to be. This is what we try
career in bars in ‘wow’ factor. It’s important to be always to bring to the bar the most.”
London; Pouring The on top of that.” Those who have a different spirit of
Macallan; Carefully Eddie and João aim to work one- choice are welcomed just as warmly,
measuring a dram; on-one with every drinker at the although Eddie is keen to work with
Guests at Eddie’s
bar, building the experience around drinkers who say they prefer to steer
Klub sample their
whiskies. education. Whiskies are served in 25ml clear of whisky.
measures from tasting glasses to focus “If someone says they don’t like
‘–Š‡“—ƒŽ‹–‹‡•‘ˆ‡ƒ Š•’‹”‹–‘˜‡” ™Š‹•›ǡ–Š‡ϐ‹”•––Š‹‰ †‘‹•‰‡–
their presentation. them to smell something smoky. For
“First we are a bar, then we are a someone who doesn’t like whisky,
whisky bar,” Eddie said. “The idea peated whiskies are always absolutely
‘ˆǮϐ‹”•–™‡ƒ”‡ƒ„ƒ”ǯ‡ƒ•–Šƒ– disgusting or they’re completely in love
people come in for a good hospitality ™‹–Š–Š‡Ǥ –Š‡ϐ‹†•‘‡–Š‹‰™‹–Š
experience. Then it’s a whisky specialist a lower ABV that’s easy to approach,”
bar, so everything you see in front of he explained.
you is a whisky selection that outstands “For me, this is absolute gold –
ƒ›–Š‹‰›‘—™‹ŽŽϐ‹†‹‘”–—‰ƒŽǤ ϐ‹†‹‰–Š‡•‡•‹–—ƒ–‹‘•™Š‡”‡›‘— ƒ
“It’s all based on human interaction bring someone into whisky, and even
– it’s something that people are missing better, make their friends or partner

Eddie’s Mirandela
Klub
Vila
Real
Porto
Trancoso
Aveiro Viseu
NORTH
ATLANTIC
OCEAN Parque Natural
da Serra
Coimbra da Estrela

Castelo
Branco
Leiria

Caldas da Tomar
Rainha SPAIN
Ponte
de Sor

Elvas
LISBON
Almada
Whisky Bars Eddie’s Klub

This page, from top: ask, ‘How did you do that?’ It’s a matter
Pouring a glass of of having the right tools – with the right
Oban whisky at tools, you can show different ways of
Eddie’s Klub; Raising
trying whisky.”
a toast.
Though Eddie’s Klub is only young,
its intention is clear. Eddie hopes that
the bar’s customer-forward approach to
whisky will transform preconceptions
about the spirit in his home country.
Domestically, whisky is still on
the back foot in Portugal (among the
imported brands available, Scotch
rules the roost). Like other countries in
continental Europe, it has been brushed
by the craft gin wave – there are around
a dozen brands on the market, and gin
has become one of the more commonly
consumed spirits alongside local tipple
ginjinha – but, despite the popularity of
its ex-wine casks for whisky maturation,
whisky production in Portugal is still
in its infancy. Venakki Distillery in
Alpiarça, maker of Woodwork Whisky,
is leading the charge.
Eddie said, “In Portugal, everybody
has whisky at home but it’s normally
blended. The biggest brands around
here are Grant’s, J&B, Chivas Regal and
Passport. It’s like a Christmas thing – at
Christmas, you either give whisky or
receive whisky from someone.
“People are not going to buy more
expensive whisky just because it’s more
expensive. You need to offer education
to the public, and you need to show the
public there are different options.”
Eddie’s enthusiasm for the industry
shines through, but he isn’t ignorant of
the fact more work needs to be done to
change the bigger picture.
“Whisky needs more people doing
what we’re doing because there is
potential in the market,” he said. The
hope is this will attract a chain of others
to Portugal, in turn introducing the
country to a better range of whiskies
and allowing the market to grow.
Small steps lead to big changes.
Eddie’s Klub is demonstrating just how
© VINICIUS VALPEREIRO

different the Portuguese whisky market


could look in the future, and Eddie and
his team will be bringing that change,
dram by dram, for years to come.

62 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky & Science :KLVN\¶V3V\FKRORJLFDO(̆HFWV

WORDS CHRIS MIDDLETON

“What else can change your ideas


DQGPDNHWKHPUXQRQDGL̆HUHQW
plane like whiskey?” wrote Ernest
Hemingway to biographer Arthur
0L]QHU:HLQYHVWLJDWHWKHH̆HFWV
of alcohol, and the role of whisky,
in innovation and creativity

W
hat is it about travelled the road with bourbon; like tools I need for my trade are paper,
alcohol that others of his generation, such as action tobacco, food and a little whisky.” He
lures creative painter Jackson Pollock, addiction also sagaciously noted, “Civilisation
personalities to ultimately killed his talent. For Welsh began with distillation.”
use psychoactive poet Dylan Thomas, whisky was one of When ardent spirits moved from
substances to help alter their his muses, and it also led to his death medicinal elixirs to recreational
perceptions and consciousness? Is it the after downing too much whisky at the beverages during the 16th and
tension between alcohol as a comforter White House Tavern during a visit to 17th centuries, the introduction of
or killer, sacrament or poison? For New York City in 1953. The modernist distillation was a hallmark of advancing
Hemingway, it started as a friend composer Igor Stravinsky amusingly civilisation. The manufacture of
and became a foe. His creative crutch ‘ϐ‹†‡†ǡDz› ‘†ǡ•‘— Š Ž‹‡–‘ spirits demands skills and expertise
turned into a destructive force, a fate drink Scotch that sometimes I think my in agriculture, metallurgy, technology,
that befell other writers. The gonzo name is Igor Stra-whisky.” biological processes, and sensory
writer Hunter S. Thompson consumed Whisky was the modern Anglo-Saxon discrimination and appreciation. A
copious volumes of Scotch and bourbon. drink of creative choice. American missing variable is the psychoactive
Rising at 3AM each morning, he started ‘˜‡Ž‹•–‹ŽŽ‹ƒ ƒ—Ž‡””‡ϐŽ‡ –‡†‘ effects in ‘triggering creativity’ that
drinking “Chivas Regal with my morning his sources for sustaining inspiration, ethanol delivers in a more potent spirit
papers”. Beat writer Jack Kerouac “My own experience has been that the such as whisky.

64 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky & Science :KLVN\¶V3V\FKRORJLFDO(̆HFWV

Imagining or perceiving something causality role of alcohol can be gauged These pages: for cognition, planning and decision-
new, original or creative should ideally at national quantitative levels. In 2019, American writer making, while dopamine modulates
be useful, valuable and relevant. Michael Andrews of the University of Ernest Hemingway is cognitive control. Its connectivity
claimed to have used
”‡ƒ–‹˜‹–›‹•—•—ƒŽŽ›†‡ϐ‹‡†ƒ•ƒ Maryland Baltimore County discovered works with other parts of the brain,
alcohol as a creative
non-linear process – another way a 15 per cent decline in the registration aid, but had a such as the hippocampus for memory
of seeing the world – whether in of new patent registrations during troubled relationship and learning and the basal ganglia for
the arts, mathematics, science and America’s 14 years of Prohibition, with it. skills and decision-making. While the
technology, or everyday problem- correlating with the reduced per- prefrontal cortex is the workhorse, the
solving. In other words, an entropic capita consumption of liquor during neurotransmitters are the chemical
solution is not always dictated by this national ban. Other academics messengers. This is where alcohol
logic but also by intuition. For the have postulated the emergence of affects the brain’s amorphous pathways,
inventor Thomas Edison, genius civilisations is characterised by the leading to ‘thinking outside the box’.
was “1 per cent inspiration and 99 cultivation of cereal and its production An increase in neurotransmitters
per cent perspiration”. Whether into alcohol, or vice versa, as advanced in the prefrontal cortex is caused by
through collaborative efforts or in 1952 by Robert Braidwood’s ‘beer alcohol stimulating the release of
personal impetus, alcohol is a before bread’ hypothesis. the body’s natural opiates, notably
psychoactive catalyst that helps Consuming alcohol relaxes and the two major neurotransmitters,
activate the brain’s synaptic functions stimulates to incite divergent and endorphin and dopamine. Recent
in private contemplation and public ‘˜‡”‰‡–‹†‡ƒ•ǡ•—††‡Ž›ϐ‹”‹‰‘ˆˆ studies indicate that dopamine drives
collaborations. For creativity to ϐŽƒ•Š‡•‘ˆ ”‡ƒ–‹˜‹–›ƒ†‹•‹‰Š–ˆ—Ž‡••Ǥ motivation to explore and boost
bloom, it demands the metaphorical The consensus is that creativity creativity, but in excess, it increases
perspiration of information and luxuriates during relaxation, and –Š‡”‹•‘ˆ‡–ƒŽ‹ŽŽ‡••Ǥ•‹‰‹ϐ‹ ƒ–
experiences as inputs to educate alcohol induces relaxation. Archimedes, over-representation of creative
neural networks and the spark of perhaps savouring a cup of wine, personalities has been diagnosed with
inspiration to make informed leaps. reposed in quiet solitude of his bath had bipolar disorder, including Ernest
The quantum leap Albert Einstein his insightful “Eureka!” moment. Yet, Hemingway, Virginia Woolf, Vincent van
made when he imagined chasing a ray creativity does not result from a single ‘‰Šǡ ‹› ‡†”‹šǡ ”ƒ‹ƒ–”ƒǡ
of light to conceptualise the theory cognitive process or anatomical location and even eminent scientists like Isaac
of special relativity (E = mcψ), where inside the brain. The causal relationship Newton, Charles Darwin and Wolfgang
matter and energy are interchangeable, between alcohol and creativity can ƒ—Ž‹Ǥ‹–‹‰”‡ ‡–ϐ‹†‹‰•ǡ”ƒ ›
demanded years of observation, study be measured at many levels, from Andreasen conducted clinical studies
and academic curiosity. These leaps are individual to teamwork. Neuroscience between 1987 and 2022, discovering
not dependent on alcohol; however, in posits the prefrontal cortex as the an 80 per cent lifetime prevalence of
many cases, alcohol plays a part. The locus for creative thought, responsible mood disorders when sampling literary
writers. Psychologist Kay Jamison, in
1989, found 39 per cent of professional
artists and highly acclaimed writers
suffered from mental illnesses, and in
1994, analysis by Dr Felix Post found
more than 80 per cent of famous
DOFRKROLVDSV\FKRDFWLYHFDWDO\VW playwrights, poets and novelists in
Britain were treated for psychosis and
WKDWKHOSVDFWLYDWHWKHEUDLQ¶V depression. These and other studies
V\QDSWLFIXQFWLRQVLQSULYDWH found among creative individuals the
rate of mood disorders was high, and
FRQWHPSODWLRQDQGSXEOLF so too were rates of alcohol abuse. For
many people, famous or not, alcohol is
FROODERUDWLRQV a form of self-medication, sometimes
causing or due to underlying psychiatric
and biogenetic illnesses. Chronic
alcohol consumption and creativity
Šƒ˜‡ƒ•‡˜‡”‡‹ϐŽ‡ –‹‘’‘‹–„‡›‘†
moderation, smothering the spark.

66 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


MAG DOWN LOAD.oRG

LATEST MAGAZINES
HIGH QUAllTY TRUE-PDF
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Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 67


Whisky & Science :KLVN\¶V3V\FKRORJLFDO(̆HFWV

them are endogenous opioid peptides”. These pages, from of 0.75 was optimum for creative
It is a relatively new and emergent left to right: problem-solving. Called the ‘Aha!’
science to understand the brain, from American writer moment, further investigations by
William Faulkner;
cellar functions to its connectivity Prof Andrew Jarosz of Mississippi
Alcohol affects
through its neural networks. Learning the transmission State University evaluated similar
how alcohol disrupts, inhibits and and processing of intoxication levels, publishing The
incites these functions is only beginning information in the Eureka Factor in 2015, which concluded
to be grasped. brain, which can drunk people are better at creative
ˆ–‡”‰‹˜‹‰ƒ–ƒŽƒ– ‘‘‰Ž‡ lead to ‘outside the problem-solving. Northwest and Drexel
box’ thinking; An
headquarters on humanity’s appetite Universities found using fMRI brain
itinerary plan for Jack
for intoxication, Edward Slingerland, Kerouac’s seminal scans that sober participants would
author of the 2021 book Drunk: How We novel On the Road. block neural pathways necessary for
Sipped, Danced, and Stumbled Our Way problem-solving. In contrast, alcohol-
to Civilization, was taken to the campus relaxed respondents experienced an
Whiskey Room, the destination where upsurge in creativity detected in the
program coders sought communal superior temporal gyrus, the frontal
inspiration in drinking malt whisky and Ž‘„‡‹†‡–‹ϐ‹‡†™‹–Š–Š‡—”‡ƒ‹•‹‰Š–
ϐ‹‡„‘—”„‘Ǥ ‡”‡‹–Š‹•Ǯ‹ —„ƒ–‘” or Aha! moment. In 2017, Michael
of collective creative’, he learnt of the Sayette at the University of Pittsburgh
Ballmer Peak. Attributed to Microsoft’s published ‘Lost in the Sauce’ in the
The other hormone is an endogenous CEO, Steve Ballmer, the company Psychological Science journal, explaining
opioid, endorphin, produced in the discovered the ‘ideal’ blood-alcohol •—„Œ‡ –•—†‡”–Š‡‹ϐŽ—‡ ‡‘ˆƒŽ ‘Š‘Ž
pituitary gland, which delivers a rush level in the 1980s; it was claimed were more susceptible to mind
when alcohol is consumed. Endorphins programmers hooked themselves to wandering. Inducing disinhibition
block pain and, most importantly, alcoholic intravenous drips to sustain effects on cognitive control similarly
promote pleasure. It’s why moderate their creative sweet spot. facilitates aspects of creative cognition.
drinking of alcohol generates the An empirical sweet spot was revealed Š‡„‡‡ϐ‹–•™‡”‡”‡•–”‹ –‡†–‘
‘feel-good’ sensation. In 2009, Prof in the Journal of Consciousness and modest amounts of alcohol, prompting
Š”‹•–‹ƒ ‹ƒ‘—Žƒ‹•‘ˆ ‹ŽŽ Cognition in 2012, in ‘Uncorking the empirical and clinical speculation
University reported in Alcoholism: Muse: Alcohol Intoxication Facilitates on the dosing levels. Ethanol is a
Clinical & Experimental Research Creative Problem-Solving’. Using the synergistic drug that can alter the state
that ethanol’s effect on endorphins Remote Associated Test, the University of consciousness towards creativity.
“increases or decreases the number of Illinois Department of Psychology In many countries, advertising codes
of neurotransmitters, which amongst found a blood alcohol concentration ‘ˆ ‘†— –‹ Ž—†‡ Žƒ—•‡••’‡ ‹ϐ‹ ƒŽŽ›

68 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky & Science :KLVN\¶V3V\FKRORJLFDO(̆HFWV

prohibiting the portrayal or depiction University of Edinburgh‘s School of


of alcohol helping solve problems or Chemistry and Scotch Whisky Research
contributing to a mood change. The Institute, identifying not hundreds
same psychoactive effects that are the „—––Š‘—•ƒ†•‘ˆϐŽƒ˜‘—” ‘’‘—†•Ǥ
raison d’etre of alcoholic consumption Could the combined sensory pleasures
are its seeds of destruction. of whisky and its psychoactive effects
In Bliss Point Factor, sensory scientist have contributed to the exponential rise
Dr Robert McBride expounded that in creativity and innovation over the
the human desire for organoleptic past two centuries, as whisky became
pleasure trumped nutrition – sensory one of the most popular spirits in the
and emotional needs eat rationality Western Hemisphere? We could judge
for breakfast. His clinical observations by the long list of artists, scientists,
might explain why whisky has been ƒ†‹†‡ƒ–‹‘‹‘–Š‡”ϐ‹‡Ž†•‘ˆŠ—ƒ
the preferred liquid muse since its endeavour that anecdotally rank whisky
popularity in the 19th century. Whisky as their preferred tipple.
Šƒ•–Š‡‘•–ϐŽƒ˜‘—” ‘’Ž‡š‹–›‘ˆ Disclaimer: Whisky Magazine
any alcoholic beverage. In 2016, 85 advocates for the responsible and
Scotch brands were analysed by the moderate consumption of alcohol.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 69


Tastings Latest

Ardnamurchan
AD/ Single Malt
Taster biographies ADELPHI DISTILLERY

Bethany Whymark ABV: 46.8% Bethany


Style: Single Malt
After studying English literature at university, Bethany Country: SCOTLAND Nose: White toast, heathery honey, rolling tobacco,
worked as a journalist for regional newspaper groups Region: Highland and iodine. Lemon and orange sherbet. Oatcakes,
before moving to the spirits industry. She was appointed Price per bottle: toffee apples, coffee grounds, chicory and thyme.
as editor of Whisky Magazine in 2022, having previously Bottling: Distillery Palate: Light-medium bodied. Herby salad and
Availability: Worldwide
edited its sister titles Gin and Rum. She is also editor of FLGHUYLQHJDUÀUVWTXLFNO\FDSLWXODWLQJWRVZHHWSHDW
annual publications Travelux and Scotch Whisky. notes, heather honey, toasted sourdough, burnt
URVHPDU\DQGWRXFKRIERQÀUHDVK&ORXG\DSSOH
juice, baked pears and a little golden syrup.
Christopher Coates Finish:0HGLXPORQJRQERQÀUHDVKVRXUGRXJK
A member of the team since 2013 and a keen whisky and apple juice.
drinker long before that, Christopher served as Whisky 8.0 Comments: This sips well, but I think it
also has great highball potential.
Magazine’s Scotch whisky editor before being appointed
as editor in 2020. In 2022, he was named editor-at-large
and now writes a regular column for this title, in addition to
his role as a blind taster. He is also chair of judges for the Christopher
World Whiskies Awards and Icons of Whisky competitions. Nose: Blossom honey, aloe vera, linseed oil,
woodsmoke, eucalyptus, sourdough, petrichor,
THE PROCESS SRPHJUDQDWHPRODVVHVÁDSMDFNOLO\SROOHQDQG
• All samples are blind tasted, with ABV, country/region black treacle.
and style the only information disclosed Palate: Medium-light bodied. Blossom honey, olive
oil, waxy apple, tarte tatin, and creamy brie. Sweet
• Samples are tasted individually over a two-week period
and savoury cereals, reminiscent of oat cake. Dry,
• Tasters work to tasting and scoring guidelines in order ZLWKJUHHQWHDWDQQLQ'HOLFDWHMDVPLQHÁRUDOQRWHV
to assess samples consistently Finish: Medium-short. Drying, playing out on the
• The top-scoring sample is awarded Editor’s Choice jasmine tea and honey notes.
• Samples receiving scores of 16.5+ receive a 7.9 Comments: Like eating real honeycomb
and creamy white cheese on an oatcake.
Recommended award

Compass Box Dalmunach


Delos 5 Years Old
&203$66%2; &+,9$6%527+(56/7'

ABV: 49% Bethany ABV: 63% Bethany


Style: Blended Style: Single Malt
Country: SCOTLAND Nose: Buttery caramels and vanilla sponge cake. Country: SCOTLAND Nose: An over-ripe fruit bowl: apples, bananas, and
Region: N/A Tinned pears and a little nutmeg. Apple slices with Region: Speyside apricots. Warm hayloft. Golden Grahams cereal,
Price per bottle: DOPRQGEXWWHU$FUXQFK\ÁRUDOLW\OLNHGDQGHOLRQVRU Price per bottle: vanilla wafer biscuits, and malted milkshake.
Bottling: Independent marigolds. Orange marmalade. Bottling: Distillery 7RPDWRVWDONVVZHHWSDUVQLSDQGHOGHUÁRZHUZLQH
Availability: Worldwide Availability: UK
Palate:/LJKWPHGLXP9DQLOODVSRQJHVWXGGHGZLWK With water, vanilla and banana pudding.
toffee apple chunks. A hint of bitter coffee. Baked Palate:/LJKWPHGLXP&DUDPHODQGZKLWHFKRFRODWH
pears and blossom honey. Nutty rye bread, praline shortbread. Lemon thyme and green tea leaves.
biscuits, candied peel, and a touch of mace. Bruised apples, fruit scones, and apricot jam.
Finish:6KRUWZLWKVDOWHGFDUDPHODQGÁRUDOQRWHV Finish: Short, on green tea with honey, and dried
but some warmth lingers. apple pieces.
8.0 Comments: Good complexity matched
with a nice softness of character.
7.9 Comments: An interesting balance of
sweet and herbal notes.

Christopher Christopher
Nose: Strawberry laces, blackcurrant wine gums, Nose:6OLJKWO\SULFNO\DWÀUVW:LWKWLPHKRQH\GHZ
freshly sawn oak and distinctive dunnage aromas. melon, malted barley, pear drop, and gooseberry
Malted milk biscuit, whey powder, white chocolate. jam. Green oak, pine sap, raw sourdough, olive
With time, peach hard candies. Subtle herbal notes. oil, crayons. Then cannoli aromas of sweet pastry,
Palate: Medium-bodied. Heightened herbal element VZHHWULFRWWDÀOOLQJPLONFKRFRODWHDQGSLVWDFKLR
evocative of thyme. Then cherry candy, black and Palate: Medium-light body. A touch hot, but honey
rooibos teas honey, bergamot orange, and a little sweetness does well to balance it. Opens up with
lime pickle. Treacle tart with whipped cream. time to apricot jam, poached pear, Greek yoghurt,
Finish:/RQJRQVXEWOHKHUEDOÁRUDODQGQXWW\QRWHV blackberry jam, and cream cake with caramel.
Just a touch of cucumber. Finish: Short-medium, on cream cake.
9.1 Comments: Sophisticated, immensely
complex, and continuously evolving.
7.7 Comments:$ELWIHLVW\EXWWKHÁDYRXUV
are solid.

70 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Bottle price guide: £11-25 (US$17-40) £26-70 (US$40-110) £71-120 (US$110-190) £121-180 (US$190-280) £181 plus (US$280 plus)

English Whisky Company Glengoyne


Original Aged 15 Years
(1*/6+:+,6.<&203$1< ,$10$&/(2'',67,//(56

ABV: 43% Bethany ABV: 43% Bethany


Style: Single Malt Style: Single Malt
Country: ENGLAND Nose:%XWWHUHGSRSFRUQDQGDKLQWRIERQÀUHDVK Country: SCOTLAND Nose:&UXVW\EUHDGZLWKVDOWHGEXWWHUDQGRUDQJH
Region: N/A Iced gems, white chocolate, and whipped vanilla Region: Highland PDUPDODGH&DUDPHOLVHGSHDQXWVDQGVXOWDQDV
Price per bottle: cream. Dried apple rings and a little sawdust. Price per bottle: granola-like. Fresh black cherry and raspberry.
Bottling: Distillery Palate:/LJKWPHGLXPERGLHG9DQLOOD*HQRHVH Bottling: Distillery &RFRQXWFUHDP1LFHPDOW\\HDVW\EDFNERQH
Availability: UK Availability: UK
VSRQJHFDNHZLWKKRQH\DQGÁDNHGDOPRQGV$OLWWOH Palate:0HGLXPERGLHG1XWW\ÁDSMDFNVDQGJROGHQ
nutmeg and clove. Fresh mint and celery tops. Tart syrup. Sourdough French toast with cinnamon and
stewed apples and rhubarb with custard. clove egg custard. Pears and mandarin in fruit
Finish: Medium, with green apple skins and cream cocktail syrup. Milk chocolate-wrapped honeycomb.
crackers, then lingering on creamy hazelnuts. Finish: Medium, on golden syrup, chamomile tea,
Comments: A pleasant whisky that and a hint of yeast extract.
7.9 doesn’t ask too much of you to enjoy it. I
respect that.
7.9 Comments:,WVVSLF\DQGVDYRXU\ÁDVKHV
kept the intrigue up.

Christopher Christopher
Nose:$QLQWULJXLQJPL[RIGHOLFDWHÁRUDOV Nose:9HU\ULSHSLQHDSSOHSDSD\DMXLFHDQG
HOGHUÁRZHUFKDPRPLOHFDOHQGXOD EORVVRP pencil shavings. A pleasant whiff of felt-tip pen,
KRQH\%HURFFDYLWDPLQWDEOHW RUDQJH PLON then golden syrup and granola with sultanas and
chocolate, vanilla essence and toffee cake. Initial candied citrus peels.
whiff of talc and latex gloves, but this dissipates. Palate: Light-medium. Wholemeal toast with butter
Palate:9HU\OLJKW0DQGDULQMXLFHFKDPRPLOHWHD and a thick layer of apricot jam. Blood orange juice
ZLWKKRQH\&KDONFDQG\RUDQJHEORVVRPZDWHU and more golden syrup. Subtle white and citrus
ULSHSHDU6OLJKWO\ÁLQW\$QRWKHUZKLIIRIODWH[ ÁRUDOV3LVWDFKLR0HGMRROGDWHVDQGGULHGÀJV
Finish: Medium. Plays out on those core orange and Finish: Long. Malted milk biscuit emerges with time.
ÁRUDOQRWHV Comments: A very well-balanced dram
7.6 Comments::KDWDWÀUVWVHHPHGVLPSOH
showed complexity. Unusual.
8.1 with some complexity that I could easily
return to again and again.

The Glenlivet
12 Years Old Rum and Bourbon Cask Selection
7+(*/(1/,9(7

ABV: 43% Bethany


Style: Single Malt
Country: SCOTLAND Nose: Subtle herbal and spice notes, like a peppery
Region: Speyside VDJHDQGRQLRQVWXIÀQJ$OLWWOHFKHVWQXWDQG
Price per bottle: cooked date. Dusty wood and a touch of pine.
Bottling: Distillery Sliced red apple and dulce de leche.
Availability: Taiwan
Palate: Medium bodied. Dates wrapped in smoked
EDFRQ-DPP\SOXPDQGÀJ0RODVVHVSRZGHUHG
ginger, and cherries cooked in vanilla syrup.
Finish: Medium-long, on sherry-soaked raisins and
dark chocolate-dipped crystallised ginger cookies.
Comments: There’s a delightful darkness
8.2 to this, like a naughty dessert.

Christopher
Nose: Fresh red apple, beeswax, jaffa orange
zest, toffee, vanilla oat biscuits, lily, instant coffee
JUDQXOHVDQG&KDQWLOO\FUHDP
Palate: Medium-bodied. Intensely juicy: orange
and lemon gummy sweets, apple and pear boiled
sweets, mandarin segments, raspberry chews, and
foam bananas. Some vanilla cupcakes with butter
icing and sugar sprinkles.
Finish: Medium, on mandarin.
Comments: Big, chewy, and simple candy
7.9 ÁDYRXUV&RPIRUWLQJDQGPRUHLVK

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 71


Tastings Latest

Glenmorangie Glenturret
A Tale of the Forest Triple Wood 2022 Release
MOET HENNESSY LALIQUE AND HANSJORG WYSS

ABV: 46% Bethany ABV: 45% Bethany


Style: Single Malt Style: Single Malt
Country: SCOTLAND Nose:&UHDP\DQGVPRN\OLNHDEXUQWFKHHVHFDNH Country: SCOTLAND Nose: Porridge, coconut cream and maple syrup.
Region: Highland :RRG\URVHPDU\%DUEHTXHGSRUNDQGQHFWDULQH Region: Highland &LQQDPRQODWWH&U\VWDOOLVHGSLQHDSSOHFKXQNVDQG
Price per bottle: slices. Grapefruit peel. A little wood varnish. Sweet Price per bottle: FRFRQXWPDFDURRQV)UHVKTXLQFHDQG%UDPOH\
Bottling: Distillery brioche dough and chocolate-hazelnut spread. Bottling: Distillery DSSOHZLWKDKLQWRITXLQFHMHOO\ PHPEULOOR 
Availability: UK Availability: Worldwide
Palate:0HGLXP&KDUUHGVDJHDQGURVHPDU\ZLWK Palate: Medium. Stewed plums, apricots and spiced
PRUHEDUEHTXHGSRUN+D]HOQXWODWWHDQGJLDQGXMD oat crumble. A little full-fat milk cappuccino. Ground
Poached pears with spiced syrup (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and clove. Wholewheat sponge cake and
RUDQJHSHHOYDQLOOD DQGFORWWHGFUHDPLFHFUHDP raspberry jam. Underlying caramel sweetness.
Finish: Medium-long, on toasted hazelnuts, mint Finish: Medium-long, on that wholewheat sponge
stalks, and sweet smoke. with jam and sweetened cream.
8.4 Comments: Luscious texture and
GHOLJKWIXOZHOOEDODQFHGÁDYRXUV
7.9 Comments: The fruitiness would make it
a great afternoon tea accompaniment.

Christopher Christopher
Nose:(QJLQHRLOSHWURO9DVHOLQHPHQWKROOHDWKHU Nose:&RFRQXWRLOVXOWDQDVZD[VKRHSROLVKGDUN
tamarind, ink and fresh paper. Pencil shavings, chocolate and unwashed coffee beans. Raspberry
slate dust, and rubber gloves. Herbal dill and white OHDIDQGQHWWOHWHD3UXQHVLQV\UXS&KDUFRDOJULOOHG
sage. With time, peach, pear and cream cheese. steak. Earthy.
Palate: Medium to light bodied. Pear drop, celery, Palate: Medium-light. Savoury and fruity, like beef
and a touch of balloon rubber. Simple sugar cooked with mushrooms, plums and pears. Raisins
V\UXS&DQGLHGRUDQJHOHPRQDQGJLQJHUSLHFHV and sesame snap. Wholemeal loaf with butter. Oak
&LQQDPRQGXVWHGSDVWU\WZLVWV&RIIHHFUHDPV leaf wine. Milk chocolate-enrobed raisins.
Finish: Medium, on vanilla latte and balloon rubber. Finish: Medium-length. Ends on bread and butter.
Comments:(TXDOSDUWVNLWFKHQJDUGHQ Comments: For autumn walks and the
8.6 machine shop and art studio. Immensely
nuanced, complex and drinkable.
8.1 dinner after.

Gulliver 47 Hankey Bannister


English Whisky 12 Years Old Regency
6$08(/*8//,9(5 &2 ,17(51$7,21$/%(9(5$*(

AABV: 47% Bethany ABV: 40% Bethany


Style: Single Malt Style: Blended
Country: ENGLAND Nose:&UqPHFDUDPHOIUHVKO\VFUDSHGYDQLOODSRG Country: SCOTLAND Nose:%LJEDUEHTXHYLEHVOLNHPDULQDWHGFKLFNHQ
Region: N/A FORYHFDVVLDDQGJUDVV\U\HVSLFH&DQGLHGRUDQJH Region: N/A thighs. Paprika, green bell pepper, and olive oil. A
Price per bottle: peel, overripe pear, salted sweet potato crisps, and Price per bottle: touch of digestive biscuit and underripe peach.
Bottling: Independent WRDVW\RDN&KRFRODWHFKLSEULRFKH0LQWKXPEXJV Bottling: Distillery Palate: Light. Peach and a little cantaloupe melon.
Availability: UK Availability: Worldwide
Palate: Medium bodied. Baked apples, sultanas 6WHDPHGDSSOHSXGGLQJDQGWRIIHHVDXFH&RIIHH
DQGJURXQGFLQQDPRQ&DUDPHOODWWH%DQDQDVOLFHV EHDQVDQGDOOVSLFH$WRXFKRIWKRVHKRWEDUEHTXH
fried in butter. Rye bread with chocolate-hazelnut coals. Digestives dipped in milky coffee.
VSUHDG&ORYHVSLFHUHWXUQVWRZDUGVWKHHQG Finish: Medium, on oaty crackers, fruit chutney, and
Finish: Medium-long, on demerara sugar, dark bitter espresso.
chocolate and almost mentholic clove. Comments: The exciting and unusual
8.0 Comments: Pleasingly herbaceous.
Manhattans, anyone?
7.8 nose morphed into a more familiar,
enjoyable palate.

Christopher Christopher
Nose: A basket of ripe brambles, kirsch, and dark Nose: Pan-fried salmon, thyme, dried lemon, and
chocolate. Espresso, fried pastry shells, cream VZHHWFRUQ'HOLFDWHRDNVSLFHHVSHFLDOO\FORYH9HU\
cheese and rose nougat. Polished oak furniture, a subtle violet and lemon.
little camphor wood, pear purée and green apple. Palate:9HU\OLJKW3RSFRUQZLWKEXWWHUDSSOHVDXFH
Palate:0HGLXPIXOO&KHUU\DQGEODFNEHUU\MDP and pear drop. Werther’s Originals, and a whiff of
FKRFRODWHELVFXLWVUDLVLQVGULHGÀJVDQGSUXQHV wood smoke. Some general orchard fruit and a
in syrup. The sweetness is balanced by delicate touch of orange juice. A little chantilly cream.
black tea tannin, subtle turmeric and slightly tart Finish: Medium. On sweet cream.
DSSOHVDXFH&LQQDPRQDQGQXWPHJGXVWHGEXQV Comments: Delicate and refreshing. Not especially
Finish: Long, nutty. Ends on Florentines. complex, but really very tasty. Exactly
8.3 Comments: A proper dessert dram.
What’s not to love?
7.9 what I want from a solid blend.

72 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Bottle price guide: £11-25 (US$17-40) £26-70 (US$40-110) £71-120 (US$110-190) £121-180 (US$190-280) £181 plus (US$280 plus)

Limeburners Macaloney’s
5 Years Old Kildara
%287,48(<:+,6.<&203$1< 0$&$/21(<·6,6/$1'',67,//(5<

ABV: 51.5% Bethany ABV: 46% Bethany


Style: Single Malt Style: Pot Still
Country: AUSTRALIA Nose: Sweet and sharp, like mango chutney and Country: CANADA Nose: Rich and fruity. Black cherry, blackcurrant,
Region: N/A lime pickle. Brandy snaps, orange blossom water, Region: N/A damson, echinacea, milk chocolate-covered raisins
Price per bottle: YDQLOODSDVWHDQGFRFRQXWFUHDP&XUU\OHDYHV Price per bottle: and blanched almonds. Brazilian coffee with warm
Bottling: Independent coriander, mustard seeds, and underripe plum. Bottling: Distillery milk. Dark brown sugar, port, and new leather.
Availability: Worldwide Availability: Worldwide
Palate: Medium-full. Really ripe peaches and brown Palate: Medium. A gateau with cocoa-rich sponge
VXJDU OLNHSHDFKÁDYRXUHGVZHHWWHD 5DLVLQVDQG DQGGDUNIUXLWFRPSRWH9DQLOODODWWHZLWKQXWPHJ
crystallised ginger. Fresh lime peel and more sour &RRNLHGRXJKDQGFU\VWDOLVHGJLQJHU%ODFNFXUUDQW
lime pickle. Slightly burnt French toast. OLTXHXUDQGKLQWVRISHSSHUPLQWDQGMXQLSHU
Finish: Long, on peach iced tea and sticky ginger Finish: Medium-long, drying. On ginger biscuits and
cake. A hint of sage right at the end. sweetened black tea.
8.7 Comments:&RPSOH[ZHOOEDODQFHG
weighty, delicious. Well done, Australia.
8.2 Comments: Flaunted its richness in a
restrained, mature way.

Christopher Christopher
C
Nose: Potpourri – especially rose and violet. Nose: Prunes, raisins, menthol, candied orange,
&KLQRWWRRUDQJHSDWFKRXOLYLROLQURVLQFDPSKRU ccinnamon stick, and pumpernickel. A little
ZRRGMDVPLQHDQGVWLFN\WRIIHHSXGGLQJ&KHUU\ ccardamom and dill.
FRODDQGEODFNWUXIÁH+RQH\URDVWHGSHDQXWVZLWK Palate: Medium-bodied. Sourdough doughnut,
paprika. After Eight mints. ÀÀOOHGZLWKFXVWDUGDQGGXVWHGZLWKFLQQDPRQ
Palate: Medium. Beef with red wine jus, cherry jam, VVXJDU&KHUU\FROD)UXLW 1XWFKRFRODWHEDUDQG
roasted chestnuts, oyster mushrooms, watermelon, w
wholemeal toast with damson plum jam.
DQGEXUQHGEXWWHU3HSSHUPLQWOHDIOLTXRULFHURRW Finish: Medium-long, on pumpernickel.
paprika chips and rancio. Tangy peach and lemon. C
Comments: Sugar, spice and everything nice.
Finish:/RQJRQSHDQXWDQGWUXIÁHFKLSV
8.8 Comments: Smells like an eau de parfum
and tastes like dinner at a hunting lodge.
8.3

Macaloney’s
Killeigh
0$&$/21(<·6,6/$1'',67,//(5<

ABV: 46% Bethany


Style: Pot Still
Country: CANADA Nose: Rum-raisin ice cream. Syrupy ginger cake
Region: N/A and applesauce. High-cocoa dark chocolate, pipe
Price per bottle: WREDFFR+RW&URVVEXQV \HDVWHGGRXJKFXUUDQWV
Bottling: Distillery FDQGLHGSHHO PDU]LSDQDQGDWRXFKRIURVHZDWHU
Availability: Worldwide
Palate:/LJKWPHGLXPERGLHG2UDQJH]HVWFUqPH
FDUDPHODQGV\UXS\FRRNHGSOXPV&RFRDSRZGHU
dusted chocolate brownies. Beeswax and a little old
leather. Black cherry yoghurt and Florentines.
Finish: Long, on the rum-raisin notes and candied
orange peel.
8.3 Comments: A great balance of dark,
richer notes and fruit freshness.

Christopher
C
Nose: Dried mango, papaya juice, dragonfruit and
UDLVLQ'DUNFKRFRODWHDQGÀOWHUFRIIHH2YHUULSH
EUXLVHG VWUDZEHUU\DQGULSHSOXP
Palate:&RQFHQWUDWHGIUXLWÁDYRXURIULSHQHFWDULQH
mango, and cantaloupe. A touch of sweet balsamic
and sweet red pepper. Evocative of an old marsala.
a
Lots of milk chocolate, with some background
herbaceousness.
Finish: Long. The ripe plum note persists.
Comments: Has a nice balance of
8.0 chocolate and tropical notes – like a
fusion-cuisine dessert.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 73


Tastings Latest

Macaloney’s 3ŮNHQR
Kirkinriola Origin
0$&$/21(<·6,6/$1'',67,//(5< PŅKENO

ABV: 46% Bethany ABV: 43% Bethany


Style: Pot Still Style: Single Malt
Country: CANADA Nose: First, smoky bacon crisps. Iberico ham, ancho Country: NEW ZEALAMD Nose:)UXLWIRUZDUGDWÀUVWO\FKHHWLQQHGSLQHDSSOH
Region: N/A chilli, and rye crackers. Then clove-studded orange, Region: N/A and peach foam sweets. Then macadamia nuts,
Price per bottle: prunes, and apple and blackcurrant cordial. A little Price per bottle: IUHVKPLQWDQGFLQGHUWRIIHH%OXHEHUU\PXIÀQZLWK
Bottling: Distillery wet grain and burnt rubber. Bottling: Distillery a buttery crumble topping. A little white pepper.
Availability: Worldwide Availability: UK
Palate: Orange polenta cake with lashings of Palate: Light-medium. Steamed vanilla pudding and
FDUDPHO:RRG\YDQLOOD&ORYHDQGEODFNSHSSHU GDUN DOPRVWEXUQW FDUDPHO3LQHDSSOHVRXUSOXP
spice. Oyster mushroom and a pinch of dried, red apple, blossom honey and pumpernickel.
smoky chilli. Raspberry compote and dried mango. Finish: Short-medium, on wholewheat bread with
Finish: Medium-long, on soy sauce, grassy spice, honey and a touch more lychee.
orange zest, and a hint of dark chocolate. Comments: A delightful little malt
8.4 Comments: A lovely interplay of sweet
and savoury that evolves as it sits.
8.0 that somehow feels intriguing and
comfortingly familiar at the same time.

Christopher
C Christopher
Nose:$WÀUVWEXUQLQJUXEEHURUFDUFOXWFKEOXH Nose: Apricot and raspberry fromage frais.
ccheese and silage. Under it, honey-roasted 5LSHFRQIHUHQFHSHDUFUqPHEU€OpHQXWPHJ
a
almonds, rye cake, overripe pineapple, unwashed and prosciutto.
ccoffee bean, cured ham, sourdough starter, coal Palate:/LJKWERGLHG)ROORZVWKHQRVHZHOO&UHDP\
d
dust, milk chocolate and prunes in syrup. yoghurt, honey-glazed granola, and melon balls
Palate: Pistachio butter, a touch of Époisses funk, ZUDSSHGLQFXUHGKDP(OGHUÁRZHUFRUGLDODQG
D
DQGFRIIHHFDNH&DQGLHGJLQJHU0HGMRROGDWH vanilla ice cream. Delicate notes of Brazil nuts.
cchocolate brownie with tahini. A little beetroot and Finish:0HGLXPVKRUWRQULFHFULVS\VTXDUH
ccreamed celeriac earthiness. Tropical fruit drink. Comments: Simple, refreshing and without fault.
Finish: Long. Forest fruits and chocolate. You could drink this all day.
8.5 Comments: With time in the glass, swung
from giving me the ick to being lovely.
7.8

Ragtime Rye Scallywag


New York Straight Whiskey 10 Years Old
NEW YORK DISTILLING '28*/$6/$,1* &2

ABV: 45.2% Bethany ABV: 46% Bethany


Style: Rye Style: Blended Malt
Country: USA Nose: Peppery spice, linseed oil, and fennel seeds. Country: SCOTLAND Nose: Summer pudding (juicy red berries, sponge
Region: New York Sliced apple and celery. Lemon zest on soy yoghurt. Region: N/A FDNH 'DUNFKRFRODWHZLWKIUHH]HGULHGUDVSEHUULHV
Price per bottle: &RQGHQVHGPLONFDUDPHO3URYLQJZKROHZKHDW Price per bottle: Plum sauce and crispy duck skin. Dark muscovado
Bottling: Distillery bread dough. Bottling: Independent VXJDU%UD]LOQXWV&UXQFK\FUqPHEU€OpHWRS
Availability: UK Availability: Worldwide
Palate: Medium bodied. Rye bread with lime Palate: Medium. Sticky toffee pudding packed with
marmalade. Turmeric latte and soy milk. Milk dates. Meaty fried mushrooms and plum sauce.
chocolate-coated caramels. Shaved fennel, 'DUNFKRFRODWHJDQDFKHUDVSEHUU\ÁXII\SDQFDNHV
wholegrain mustard, and a hint of fresh melon. and maple syrup. Eucalyptus and candied ginger.
Finish:0HGLXPORQJRQRUDQJHFUqPHEU€OpH Finish:0HGLXPORQJRQWRIIHHVDXFHDQGOLTXRULFH
peppery spice and a hint of warm hay. Comments: Inviting colour. The aroma
8.4 Comments:9HU\ZHOOEDODQFHG$JUHDW
introductory rye for sweeter whisky fans.
8.4 implied a richness and complexity that
the palate successfully delivered.

Christopher Christopher
Nose: New oak, violin rosin, labdanum, plum wine, Nose: Butterscotch, buttermilk pancakes, fromage
\X]XDQGWRIIHH6LJQLÀFDQWVSLF\QRWHVRIFXPLQ frais, fresh blueberry and maple syrup. Lemon zest
turmeric, clove, cinnamon and nutmeg. Pickled and fresh orange juice. Base notes of both tea cake
FDSHUVDQGFRIIHHOLTXHXUWRR FXUUDQWFDNHZLWKEDNLQJVSLFHV DQG7XQQRFN·V
Palate: Light-medium. Blueberry cordial, toffee WHDFDNH PDUVKPDOORZPLONFKRFRODWHDQGELVFXLW 
sauce, and milk chocolate-coated hard toffee. Palate: Medium. Well-integrated orchard and stone
Miscellaneous red wine notes. Aloe vera and subtle fruit: stewed red apples, pears and plums, with
spearmint. Underneath, fresh parsley and basil. fresh apricot and nectarine. A sweet, delicate cereal
Finish: Medium-short. As the sweetness fades the QRWHXQGHUQHDWKOLNHKRQH\QXWIURVWHGÁDNHFHUHDO
herbal notes linger. Finish: Medium. Fresh apricot and cereal.
8.4 Comments: A complex but easy-drinking
rye with lots to like.
8.2 Comments: Oodles of fruity malt. Good
fun and lots to love.

74 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Bottle price guide: £11-25 (US$17-40) £26-70 (US$40-110) £71-120 (US$110-190) £121-180 (US$190-280) £181 plus (US$280 plus)

Tomatin Uncle Nearest


Madeira 1856 Premium Whiskey
TOMATIN 81&/(1($5(67

ABV: 46% Bethany ABV: 50% Bethany


Style: Single Malt Style: Bourbon
Country: SCOTLAND Nose:%UDQG\GUHQFKHG&KULVWPDVSXGGLQJZLWK Country: USA Nose:9HU\EXWWHU\VDOWHGSRSFRUQ)UHVKO\VKHOOHG
Region: Highland IUHVKFXVWDUG&LWUXVV\/DQFDVKLUHFKHHVH:KLWH Region: Tennessee SHDQXWVDQGSLVWDFKLRV&RFRQXWRLOFRUQEUHDG
Price per bottle: grape and pickled walnuts. A little leather and wood Price per bottle: and ground clove. Mandarin, nectarine, and a little
Bottling: Distillery varnish. Ground ginger and cumin. Bottling: Distillery milk chocolate.
Availability: Worldwide Availability: Worldwide
Palate: Medium-full. Notably voluptuous texture. Palate: Medium-bodied. The buttery popcorn turns
9DQLOODODWWHIUHVKQXWPHJJLQJHUFDNHPRODVVHV VZHHWVDOW\9DQLOODVSRQJHFDNHJLQJHUFUHDPDQG
DQGVZHHWÀJV'U\UXEEHGEDUEHTXHGEHHI6DOWHG ÁRUDOKRQH\0LONFKRFRODWHFRYHUHGUDLVLQVDQG
FDUDPHOÀOOHGFKRFRODWHWUXIÁHVDQGDOLWWOHOHDWKHU honeyed cereal. A warm, grassy spice underneath.
Finish: Medium-long. The fruit cake notes Finish: Medium-long on corn kernels, chewy toffees
crescendo, with creamy hazelnut. and that fresh, herbal spice.
8.5 Comments:9HU\JRRGFRPSDQ\IRUD
long, cold evening.
8.4 Comments: A well-balanced bourbon that
leans slightly savoury.

Christopher Christopher
Nose:2UDQJHGUL]]OHFDNHZLWKDOPRQGÁRXU Nose: Modelling clay, oil paints, pine sap, lily of the
VSRQJH&KXUURVZLWKEUDQG\FUHDP&RFRDSRZGHU valley, menthol, nutmeg, cinnamon, clove, and star
shaved nutmeg and cinnamon stick. anise. A buttery biscuit base with cornbread and a
Palate:0HGLXPIXOO&OHPHQWLQHQHFWDULQH VDYRXU\QRWHOLNHKLFNRU\VPRNHGEDUEHTXHEHHI
and delicate candied citrus peels. Deep-fried Palate: Medium-light. Well-integrated sweetcorn,
puff pastry, olive oil, sesame and golden syrup. sour cherry, underripe bramble, black coffee, chewy
Delicate white bread base notes. Fried plantain. toffee, and allspice. A touch of green bell pepper
&RQFHQWUDWHGWURSLFDOQRWHVRIPDQJRDQG and white pepper spice. Black tea and subtle violet.
passionfruit, too. Finish: Medium. Treacle biscuit, some tannin drying,
Finish: Medium, with the clementine before a cooling menthol note takes over.
8.3 note lingering.
Comments:/LTXLGPDUPDODGHRQWRDVW
8.4 Comments: Would stand up well in
FRFNWDLOVEXWGHÀQLWHO\DVLSSLQJZKLVNH\

Westland
Solum
WESTLAND

ABV: 50%
Style: Single Malt
Bethany A glassful of delights
Country: USA
Region: Washington
Nose: Sweet yeasted buns with chocolate chips.
0DOWHGPLONVKDNH&ORYHFDUGDPRPDQGFXPLQ to pick over and
Price per bottle:
Bottling: Distillery
&KHUU\ÁDYRXUHGEODFNWHD'ULHGDSULFRWVURDVWHG
chestnut, lemon-scented polish, and sweet peat. savour slowly
Availability: Worldwide
Palate: Medium-full. Sweet smoke comes forward
like barbecued pork ribs. Rich chocolate ganache Bethany Whymark
DQGSHFDQQXWV9DQLOODODWWHZLWKORWVRIJURXQG
cinnamon. A hint of cigar box. Deliciously malty.
Finish: Long, on rich malt, milky spiced coffee, and
VZHHWERQÀUHVPRNH
8.5 Comments: A glassful of delights to pick
over and savour slowly.

Christopher
Nose: Mossy bark, pencil shavings, and tilled earth.
Rosemary, eucalyptus and slate dust. Malted milk
GULQNOLTXRULFHDQGVWDUDQLVH$WRXFKRIFRDOGXVW
Palate: Medium body. Strong retronasal aromas of
SHWULFKRUDQGFRDOVPRNH/LTXRULFHVWLFNDORHYHUD
gel, and a base note of milk cookie. Subtle lychee,
green banana and lemongrass. A soft herbal note,
like dried oregano and basil mix.
Finish: Long. Fading smoke, anise and oregano.
Comments: A delicately smoky, herbal
8.3 dram with a light touch from the wood.
Lots to unpack.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 75


          

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Travel Retail New Exclusives

WORDS JOE BATES

YEAR OF THE R ABBIT PROVES


LUCKY FOR TRAVEL RETAIL
Over the past three years, Chinese New Year has proved a damp
squib for whisky distillers, but the Chinese government’s decision
to drop its zero-Covid policy has signalled a change in fortunes

S
unday 8 January 2023 will go overnight. Covid case numbers in be gentle, sensitive, compassionate, These pages,
down in history as a red- China have soared since restrictions amiable, modest and merciful – they from left:
letter day for the travel-retail were relaxed, travellers face long delays sound like the perfect travelling The Johnnie Walker
Blue Label Chinese
business. It marked the ‹‰‡––‹‰’ƒ••’‘”–•ƒ†˜‹•ƒ•ǡϐŽ‹‰Š– companion to share a dram with!
New Year 2023 Year
long-awaited moment that prices are high, and airlines have yet to The Glenlivet has launched a of the Rabbit limited
the Chinese government reopened its Žƒ›‘‡‘—‰ŠϐŽ‹‰Š–•–‘‡‡–†‡ƒ†Ǥ travel-retail exclusive design for The edition; The Chinese
borders, allowing foreign travellers to Consequently, it could be the second Ž‡Ž‹˜‡–ƒ”‡ƒ•ǡ–Š‡ϐ‹”•–”‡Ž‡ƒ•‡ New Year limited-
enter and Chinese residents to venture quarter of 2023 before the Chinese in the distillery’s Triple Cask Project. edition pack for The
abroad again after three years of strict start travelling abroad in meaningful As the name suggests, each expression Glenlivet Rare Cask,
from the distillery’s
Covid-19 travel restrictions. numbers, but that hasn’t stopped in the Triple Cask Project highlights
Triple Cask Project.
After such a long period of whisky distilleries from introducing the role differing cask maturation can
deprivation, demand for foreign •‘‡Š‹‰ŠǦ’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡ǡŽ‹‹–‡†Ǧ‡†‹–‹‘ play in creating complex and creative
travel among the mainland Chinese is Chinese New Year releases. ϐŽƒ˜‘—”’”‘ϐ‹Ž‡•ǤŠ‡•–›Ž‹•Š’ƒ †‡•‹‰
understandably high, but they won’t It’s the Year of the Rabbit in the features the outline of a rabbit in mid-
reclaim their pre-pandemic title as the Chinese calendar in 2023 and people leap (or should that be mid-hop?).
world’s highest duty-free spenders born under this sign are supposed to The Glenlivet Rare Cask is aged in

80 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Travel Retail New Exclusives

ϐ‹”•–Ǧϐ‹ŽŽ‡šǦ•Š‡””› ƒ••ǡ‘ˆˆ‡”‹‰—’ orange peel and peat-smoke roasted


lots of stone fruit and sweet spice coffee on the palate with dark NEW TRAVEL-RETAIL EXCLUSIVES
on the nose, and marmalade, vanilla chocolate and sticky toffee pudding
ƒ†Ž‹“—‘”‹ ‡ϐŽƒ˜‘—”•‘–Š‡’ƒŽƒ–‡Ǥ notes on the nose. The dark chocolate Nantou Distillery
Available at airports worldwide, the theme of this whisky continues in the Omar DEBE Sky Virgin Oak
Chinese New Year limited-edition Ž‘‰ϐ‹‹•Š™Š‹ ŠƒŽ•‘‹ Ž—†‡•Š‹–•‘ˆ NANTOU DISTILLERY
release of The Glenlivet Rare Cask macadamia nut. ABV: 57.5%
is priced at US$124 (£100) for a The stunning outer gift box of the Style: Single malt
1-litre bottle. whisky features the Bowmore Distillery Price per bottle: NTD3,950 (£106)
Islay’s Bowmore Distillery has also surrounded by beautifully depicted Bottling type: Distillery
created a Chinese New Year release: water rabbits presented in a classic Availability: Ever Rich Duty Free stores at
Taoyuan, Taipei Songshan, Taichung and
the 18-year-old Bowmore Lunar New Chinese brushstroke design.
Kaohsiung airports
Year. Bottled at 43% ABV, this new Diageo Global Travel has also joined Country of origin: Taiwan
whisky has been matured in both the Chinese New Year party, partnering
oloroso and Pedro Ximénez sherry with Shanghai-based designer Angel Chinese New Year releases don’t come
casks and is available at major Asian Chen, a rising star of the Chinese more interesting than this release from
duty-free stores in China, Korea, Hong fashion world who likes to fuse Western Taiwan’s Nantou Distillery, produced
Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Thailand and Eastern themes, to create a exclusively for the island’s leading travel
and Malaysia, priced at about US$145 stunning bottle label and box design for retailer, Ever Rich Duty Free. Featuring
(£117) per bottle. Johnnie Walker Blue Label. They feature a running rabbit-themed packaging
In terms of its taste and aroma, a prancing rabbit and her trademark GHVLJQE\7DLZDQHVHJUDIÀWLDUWLVW'(%(
expect some notes of bittersweet print pattern. Chen has already worked Omar Sky Virgin Oak is a full-bodied
with global names including sports single-cask malt whisky aged in a virgin
brand Adidas and cosmetics American white oak cask.
line MAC, so expect this new Sky Virgin Oak is one of two exclusive
limited edition to become Omar single-cask whiskies available at
highly collectable. Ever Rich, each limited to 200 bottles.
The Johnnie Walker Blue
Label Chinese New Year 2023
Year of the Rabbit limited The Oxford Artisan Distillery
edition is available at leading Easy Ryder
airports across the Asia– THE OXFORD ARTISAN DISTILLERY
ƒ ‹ϐ‹ ”‡‰‹‘ǡ‹ Ž—†‹‰‘—–Š
ABV: 50% ABV
Korea’s Seoul Incheon, Style: Rye
Taiwan’s Taoyuan and Price per bottle: £45
Hainan’s Haikou Meilan Bottling type: Distillery
international airports. Availability: British Airways High Life Shop
At Dubai Duty Free Country of origin: England
in the United Arab
Emirates, the whisky Sustainability-focused travel-retail drinks
distributor Sustainaholics has succeeded
is currently priced
in getting this innovative English whisky
AED1,299 (£285).
OLVWHGE\7RXUYHVW'XW\)UHHWKHLQÁLJKW
A crop of Chinese New
shopping provider of British Airways.
Year releases targeted
The Oxford Artisan Distillery specialises
at travel-retail stores in producing spirits from sustainably
used to be a routine produced heritage grains. Easy Ryder
annual occurrence, but boasts a complex maturation in eight
the pandemic put pay
© DIAGEO | PERNOD RICARD

American oak casks of varying toasts,


to most of them. Now chars, sizes and cooperages, as well as a
that China is embracing 3RUWXJXHVH0RVFDWHO5R[RIRUWLÀHGZLQH
overseas travel once FDVN$VWKHÀUVW(QJOLVKZKLVN\DYDLODEOH
more, I am glad to see on British Airways’ High Life shopping
them back. programme, it’s well worth seeking out.

Issue 190 | Whisky


Wh
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Desert Island Drams John Glaser

CASK AWAY

© COMPASS BOX
In each edition, we ask one of the industry’s great and
good which drams they would take to our desert island

C
ompass Box founder on me once I started Compass Box. 21. It’s a classic. It has this exquisite
John Glaser’s career in They sold this thing in the mid 1990s balance of components and drinkability.
whisky started thanks called Cadenhead’s Vatted Islay 8 Just an amazing masterpiece of
to the derailment of his Years Old. They still make it now, but blending, I think. I say this because
original ambition – to it’s a different recipe... It was the most it has different cask types, but it’s so
become a winemaker. After obtaining extraordinary thing and you can still subtle. It has malt whisky in it, grain
a business degree, he•–”—‰‰Ž‡†–‘ϐ‹† ϐ‹†‹–‘ƒ— –‹‘•‹–‡•ǤŠ‡›™‘—Ž†ǯ– whisky in it – it’s a masterpiece. I aspire
a position in the wine industry. In the tell you exactly what it was a vatting to make something of this character.
end, the whisky world came calling; he of, but the belief among myself and
was offered a job at Johnnie Walker, a the guys at Milroy’s was that it was a WHISKY #5
marketing role based in New York. A 30-plus-year-old Ardbeg that had gone Compass Box
few months in, he was sent to Scotland understrength, that was brought over Asyla
and toured several distilleries in one 40% ABV with the additions of other People have always asked me, “What is
week before ending up in a blending Islay whiskies. So maybe it was Ardbeg, your favourite Compass Box whisky?”
room with industry titan Maureen maybe it wasn’t. But it was stunning. It’s hard to choose a favourite among
Robinson. Glaser cites this experience 150 whiskies you’ve made over the
as the moment he fell in love with the WHISKY #3 years... If I could only take one Compass
potential creativity of blending whisky. Compass Box Box whisky, it would be Asyla. It’s a
Glaser founded Compass Box in 2000 Eleuthra blended whisky, a 50/50 malt and
and the company has since led the Š‡ϐ‹”•–˜ƒ––‡†ƒŽ– ‡˜‡” ”‡ƒ–‡†ȋƒ† grain recipe, which we made for
charge in blended whisky in Scotland, I’m using this term because this is all many years. Sadly, we had it retired
taking inspiration from many whiskies taking place before the Scotch Whisky as we could no longer get the precise
Glaser discovered early in his career. Association lobbied the UK government components we needed and didn’t
to change the law) was Eleuthra. We want to alter the recipe. The name is
WHISKY #1 ƒ†‡–Š‹•ˆ‘”ƒ„‘—–ϐ‹˜‡‘”•‹š›‡ƒ”•Ǥ – inspired by a symphonic piece of music
Signatory Vintage was a vatting of malt whisky from Caol by English composer Thomas Adés. In
Cambus 1964 Ila, at about 20 per cent of the recipe an interview, he said he chose the name
One type of whisky that truly captured and around 10 years old, along with because he likes the connotation of not
my imagination in my early days was malt whisky from Clynelish, between just a madhouse, but a sanctuary. I’ve
grain whisky. I was working in London 12 and 15 years. The 12-year-old aged often thought that great whisky can be,
in the late 1990s for a big company, and ‹ϐ‹”•–Ǧϐ‹ŽŽ„‘—”„‘„ƒ””‡Ž•ǡƒ†–Š‡ in a sense, a sanctuary: somewhere you
I was going to places like Milroy’s, when ͳͷ‹ƒ”‡ϐ‹ŽŽŠ‘‰•Š‡ƒ†Ǥ‘—‰‘––Š‡ can go with friends and family, a calmer
Doug McIvor was working there, and I waxy character from Clynelish with place in your life, for a little while.
began falling in love with grain. I would the peaty but elegant Caol Ila. It was an
„—›ƒ›‰”ƒ‹™Š‹•‹‡•  ‘—Ž†ϐ‹†ǡƒ† 80/20 split, and this became a magic LUXURY ITEM
there was a Signatory Vintage bottling proportion for me. It has to be the Zalto Bordeaux glasses
of Cambus, distilled in 1964 and bottled ‡ ‡„‡”ʹͲͲͳ„‘––Ž‹‰ǡ–Š‡˜‡”›ϐ‹”•–Ǥ I would have to bring my own glasses,
in 1995. It was the most delicious and they would be three dozen Zalto
whisky I had tasted at the time. I bought WHISKY #4 Bordeaux glasses. Why? Because they
as many bottles of it as I could afford. Suntory show off whisky extraordinarily well.
Hibiki 21 Years Old You can really get the whisky swirling
WHISKY #2 Ideally this has to be one of the early-to- inside. I need three dozen because they
Cadenhead’s late 1990s bottlings which I purchased are so thin that they are probably going
Vatted Islay 8 Years Old ™Š‡ ™ƒ•‹ ƒ’ƒǤ ˆ™‡ ƒϐ‹†–Š‹•ǡ to get broken. Some of them break just
Š‹•‘‡™ƒ•ƒŽ•‘˜‡”›‹ϐŽ—‡–‹ƒŽ great; if not, I’ll take the current Hibiki by looking at them the wrong way.

82 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


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hile the modern world, analyse trends and progress, and
whisky industry is uncover its most innovative players,
worthy of celebration liquids, and projects.
every day, the Whisky Challenges remain for our whisky
Magazine Awards – which comprise distillers – ongoing controversial
the Icons of Whisky, World Whiskies discussions in Scotland over the
Awards, and Whisky Magazine Hall advertising and packaging of whisky
of Fame – are an annual occasion spring to mind – but through its growth
to recognise and reward the global over the past 20 to 30 years, the
‹†—•–”›̵•ϐ‹‡•–’‡‘’Ž‡ǡ’Žƒ ‡•ǡ industry has been fortifying itself to
and products. weather such storms.
The primary goal of the World If the world’s whisky producers and
Whiskies Awards (focused on product) promoters approach these challenges
and Icons of Whisky (people and places) with the knowledge, creativity and
is, of course, to commend the industry's openmindedness with which they drive
wealth of talent. However, these the industry forward on a daily basis,
competitions also provide an invaluable then whisky lovers have nothing to fear
opportunity to take stock of the whisky – and much to be excited about.

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84 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky Magazine Awards 2023 Contents

AWARDS CONTENTS
HALL OF FAME 86 FLAVOURED......................................................................... 107 Dunville’s PX 20 Years Old Cask Strength
Black Velvet Toasted Caramel Cask No. 1644
Inductee 82.................................................................... 86
Sons of Liberty Spirits Co. Coffee Flavored Whiskey Elsburn Single Sherry Octave V13-67
Inductee 83 and 84 ..................................................... 87
Tullamore D.E.W. Honey Glen Scotia First Fill Bourbon Cask No. 372
Inductee 85 and 86 ..................................................... 88
High Coast Distillery Exclusive No. 8
POT STILL ........................................................................... 108 Hogback The Wallace Collection
ICONS OF WHISKY 89
Macaloney's Island Distillery Kildara Signature Iniquity Den's Dram #57
America .......................................................................... 90 Expression Kavalan Solist Port Single Cask Strength
India................................................................................. 90 Redbreast 15 Years Old Macaloney's Island Distillery The Peat Project:
Rest of World ................................................................. 91 Talnua Virgin White Oak Cask Single Portuguese Red Wine Barrique
Global ........................................... 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97 with Washington Peat
RYE ............................................................................. 109, 110 Mars Komagatake Yakushima Aging Cask No. 2026
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS – DESIGN 98 Archie Rose Distilling Co. Single Paddock Whisky Millstone Special No. 21 Pedro Ximénez Cask
World's Best / Bottle Design ...................................... 98 Harvest 2018 20 Years Old
Label Design .................................................................. 98 Kyrö Wood Smoke Malt Rye Olympian Series Hades
Limited Edition Design ................................................. 99 Lot 40 Dark Oak Secret Series 30 Years Old
New Launch Design ...................................................... 99 Millstone 100 Rye Stauning Heather Virgin Single Cask No. 3411
Presentation .................................................................. 99 Sazerac 18 Years Old Vintage Series Bruichladdich Port Charlotte
Relaunch/Redesign ..................................................... 99 Siderit PX Cask Rye Rum Barrel
Travel Retail Exclusive ................................................. 99 Stauning El Clásico Rye Wild Weasel Single Cask Single Malt
Range ...............................................................................99 The Westfalian Cask Tw127
SMALL BATCH SINGLE MALT ....................... 122, 123, 124
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS – TASTE 100 SINGLE CASK SINGLE RYE .............................................. 111 Amber Lane Sleigh Bells 2022 PX Cask
Smooth Ambler Old Scout Rye Single Barrel Ardbeg Traigh Bhan 19 Years Old Batch No. 4
BOURBON ........................................................................... 100
Stauning Rye Maple Syrup Single Cask No. 517 The Cardrona Otago Pinot Release
The Representative Bourbon The Stillery Rye Whisky Single Cask
W.L. Weller C.Y.P.B. The English Whisky Co. 2010 Vintage Peated
Glen Saanich Wine Cask Finished
NEW MAKE & YOUNG SPIRIT................................. 112, 113 J.J. Corry The Flintlock No. 3
FINISHED BOURBON ........................................................ 100
291 Colorado Whiskey White Dog M&H Apex Orange Wine Cask
Broken Barrel Cask Strength Bourbon Anohka Heavily Peated Single Malt
Ironroot Republic Apotheosis Mars Komagatake 9 Years Old
Clonakilty Pot Still Mashbill The Notch Nantucket Island 15 Years Old
Eden New Make Spirit Säntis Malt Rainbow Series No.1 "Freedom"
SINGLE BARREL BOURBON ............................................. 101
Holyrood X Pilot NMS 11 – Pilot White Stout Recipe Spey Trutina 10 Years Old
1792 Single Barrel
Il Signor Camillo Moonshine Italiano Dei Monti Liguri St. Kilian Judas Priest – Angel of Retribution
Tumblin’ Dice Single Barrel
Mackmyra New Make Extra Peated Thy Whisky Society Cask No. 230
Niigata Kameda New Pot Peated
SMALL BATCH BOURBON ................................................. 101
Thy Whisky New Make Bøg SINGLE MALT ...................... 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130
Elijah Craig Barrel Proof C922
Filibuster Bottled In Bond Bourbon Amrut Peated
BLENDED ................................................................... 114, 115 Ardbeg 25 Years Old
Blend 285 Signature Bivrost Helheim
CORN ................................................................................... 102
Breckenridge High Proof Bourbon Whiskey Broken Bones Whisky
Ironroot Republic Hubris
Dewar’s French Smooth Cotswolds Founder’s Choice
Upshot Red Corn Whiskey
Kirin Fuji Daiking Golden Brand
AMERICAN WHISKEY ....................................................... 102 Red Locks Blended Straight Irish Whiskey Dunville’s VR 21 Years Old Palo Cortado
Storm King Distilling Co. Side Gig Whiskey Saburomaru Whisky2022 The Sun Sherry Cask Finish
St. Kilian Terence Hill – The Hero Glen Scotia Double Cask
TENNESSEE ........................................................................ 103 Three Ships Premium Select The Glenlivet Archive 21 Years Old
Jack Daniel’s Bonded Glenmorangie Signet
BLENDED MALT ........................................................ 116, 117 Gouden Carolus Blaasveld Broek
CANADIAN BLENDED ....................................................... 103 Alfred Giraud Voyage Kavalan King Car Conductor
Gibson’s Finest Venerable Breckenridge Two Clans Lamas Nimbus Robustus
Lark Symphony No. 1 Lark Chinotto Cask II Cask Strength
GRAIN......................................................................... 104, 105 Nikka Session Le Breuil Finition Sherry Oloroso
78 Degrees Triple Smoke Whiskey Single & Single Cambridge Circus, Liber Single Malt
Bainbridge Yama Mizunara Cask 32 Years Old Oloroso Sherry M&H Elements Sherry Cask
Bains Single Grain Slyrs Malt Macaloney's Island Distillery Siol Dugall
The English Whisky Co. The Norfolk Farmers Taketsuru Pure Malt Mackmyra Destination
Fercullen Distillery Select The Whistler The Good, The Bad and The Smoky Millstone Special No. 26 Peated Rivesaltes Cask
Hwayo X. Premium 3 Years Old
Kirin Single Grain BLENDED LIMITED RELEASE .......................................... 118 Mosgaard Palo Cortado Cask
Loch Lomond Single Grain Breckenridge Collectors Art Series Rosebank 31 Years Old
The Westfalian Cask Tw46 Fercullen Estate Series – The Italian Gardens Seven Seals The Age of Leo
Ichiro's Malt & Grain Blended Japanese Whisky 2023 Teerenpeli Kulo 7 Years Old
SINGLE CASK SINGLE GRAIN.......................................... 106 Woven Experience N.10 Thomson Whisky South Island Peat
Celtic Cask Daichead A Dó (42) Three Ships 12 Years Old Double Wood Blend
Rare Auld Invergordon 32 Years Old SINGLE CASK SINGLE MALT................ 119, 120, 121, 122 Tobermory 12 Years Old
Cotswolds Platinum Jubilee 1952 Cask Westland Whiskey Solum Edition 1
WHEAT ................................................................................ 106 Daiking Bourbon Single Cask Strength – Willowburn Ember
Lone Elm 4 Years Old Single Barrel "Forest Green" Yoichi 10 Years Old

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 85


Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame
Sponsored by Amorim Top Series

CELEBR ATING THE TR AILBL AZERS


:HZHOFRPH¿YHPRUHLQGXFWHHVWRRXU+DOORI)DPH

I
nduction into the Whisky every facet of the modern industry and
Magazine Hall of Fame is an to inform its direction of travel in the
honour that is reserved for 21st century.
individuals who have made ˆ–‡”‹†— –‹‰–™‘ϐ‹‰—”‡•ˆ”‘
an outstanding and lasting Scotland in December, Alan Winchester
The Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame
contribution to the world of whisky. Its and Bob Dalgarno, we now welcome
is sponsored by
hallowed corridors are populated by ϐ‹˜‡‘”‡‹†— –‡‡•‹–‘–Š‡ˆ‘Ž†ǡƒŽŽ‘ˆ
distillery founders, master distillers and whom walked the path less travelled to
blenders, whisky communicators, and broaden the horizons of thousands, if
many others who have helped to shape not millions, of whisky lovers.

Steve Nally has been a constant in the from the ground up and helped founders
$PHULFDQZKLVNH\EXVLQHVVIRUÀYH Brad and Kate Mead and David DeFazio to
decades. In 2022, he celebrated his 50th GHYHORSLWVÀUVWOLQHRISURGXFWV
anniversary of working in the industry He returned home to Kentucky in 2014
and is one of the few remaining Bourbon as employee number one at Bardstown
Hall of Fame master distillers currently Bourbon Company, where he remains
working in this capacity. today as master distiller. His unique skill
Steve spent his formative years in set made him a vital strategic asset for the
Loretto, Kentucky, where his whiskey company, which has gone from strength to
career began with Maker’s Mark Distillery strength since its foundation.
in 1972. He spent more than 30 years In 2018, Bardstown Bourbon launched
working at the distillery, progressing its own award-winning brand, becoming
through every facet of the Maker’s Mark the seventh-largest distiller of bourbon,
operations before taking on the role of rye, and American whiskeys in the US.
master distiller in 1988. Steve remains involved with product
Inductee No. 82 In 2003, Steve retired from Maker’s development while also serving as the
Mark and set up his own distilling face of the brand as it expands across
Steve Nally consultancy. It was during this period the country.
Bardstown Bourbon that he set the foundations for Wyoming
Whiskey, which launched in 2009. As its
Company ÀUVWPDVWHUGLVWLOOHUKHEXLOWWKHEUDQG

86 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame
Sponsored by Amorim Top Series

Lance Winters is master distiller at St. technical skill and palate to create many
George Spirits in California, one of the award-winning spirits. In the 26 years
earliest pioneers of the craft whiskey since joining St. George, he has been
movement in the US. He is recognised instrumental in expanding the company’s
for his love of throwing aside the portfolio and catalysing its growth from
traditional conventions and expectations a dedicated eau-de-vie distillery into an
of the spirits world, instead using his innovative craft distillery. Under his watch,
LPDJLQDWLRQDQGDUWLVWLFÁDUH St. George has launched many of the
Lance came to St. George Spirits in spirits that the distillery is best known for,
1996 after time spent as a US Navy including St. George Single Malt Whiskey
nuclear engineer, and subsequently and Baller Single Malt Whiskey.
working as a brewer. Motivated by Lance is also St. George Spirits’
the desire to make whiskey out of his president and a partner in the business,
favourite ales, he developed an interest and has expressed his pride that it has
in distillation. He approached St. George remained distiller owned and operated
Inductee No. 83 Spirits founder Jörg Rupf with a bottle of throughout its 40-year history.
homemade whiskey as his resume and
Lance Winters has been with the distillery ever since.
St. George Spirits Lance is driven by a need to create
beautiful spirits that beguile the palate
and capture the imagination, utilising his

Born to a farming family in Co Tipperary, Bernard’s experimental approach to


Ireland, Bernard Walsh spent 16 years FDVNÀQLVKLQJKDVVHHQKLPWUDYHOWKH
working in the IT industry in London world in search of unique casks, with
before he and wife Rosemary founded one of his stand-out creations in this vein
Walsh Whiskey in 1999. EHLQJWKHÀUVWLFHZLQHFDVNÀQLVKHG,ULVK
7KHLUÀUVWSURGXFWDQ,ULVKFRIIHH whiskey. His progressive outlook also
liqueur called The Hot Irishman, secured led him to become an early adopter of
Bernard an entrepreneurial award. e-labelling, an initiative to give consumers
However, spotting early signs of growth more information about the food and drink
in the world of Irish whiskey, the couple they consume, and to introduce braille on
decided to take the company in a new the packaging of The Irishman range.
direction, founding whiskey brands The Alongside his work on his own brands,
Irishman and Writers’ Tears in 2006 and Bernard is a tireless campaigner for Irish
2009 respectively. The portfolio of pot still whiskey at large. He is a founding member
whiskeys through Writers’ Tears and single of the Irish Whiskey Association, serving
Inductee No. 84 malts through The Irishman have garnered as its chairman from 2014–2016, and in
the company more than 100 international 2019 he was invited to serve as a board
Bernard Walsh awards and are now sold in more than director of Drinks Ireland, the industry
Walsh Whiskey 50 countries. body for alcoholic drinks manufacturers
As well as being in the vanguard of and suppliers in the country.
the Irish whiskey revival through these Walsh Whiskey was sold to Luxembourg-
EUDQGV%HUQDUGZDVDOHDGLQJÀJXUHDW based Amber Beverage Group in
the Royal Oak Distillery, one of Ireland’s November 2021, but Bernard continues in
largest independent distilleries. Between his role as managing director, focusing on
2013 and 2019 he designed, built, and product development and innovation for
operated the distillery – which, uniquely, The Irishman and Writers’ Tears.
makes three types of Irish whiskey (pot
still, malt, and grain) under one roof and
in the same distilling room.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 87


Whisky Magazine Hall of Fame
Sponsored by Amorim Top Series

Sukhinder Singh and his brother Rajbir education between whisky producers and
were born into the world of drinks. consumers over the past decade.
7KHLUSDUHQWVEHFDPHWKHÀUVW$VLDQ Assisting in his parents’ business,
immigrants in the UK to be granted a building his own whisky collection, and
liquor licence and subsequently opened eventually running his own whisky retail
what became an award-winning off- site gave Sukhinder an encyclopaedic
licence in west London. It was at his knowledge of whisky and he is regularly
parents’ shop that Sukhinder’s interest in called on by individuals, associations,
whisky, particularly single malt, was born. companies, and media around the world
After graduating university, Sukhinder for his expertise.
helped to redevelop and restructure In 2003 Sukhinder launched wholesale
the family business, which led to business Speciality Drinks, which grew
numerous award wins through the 1990s. from a side-line operation selling spirits
Concurrently, he was starting to build a to the on-trade in the early days of The
VLJQLÀFDQWSHUVRQDOZKLVN\FROOHFWLRQ Whisky Exchange. The business grew over
Inductee No. 85 When their parents retired in 1999, the ensuing years and now incorporates
Sukhinder and Rajbir took the decision an independent bottling arm, a distilling
Sukhinder Singh to sell the family business and founded division (Elixir Distillers), and a rare spirits
The Whisky Exchange The Whisky Exchange: an online portal auction website (Whisky.Auction).
where whisky fans could buy, sell and Sukhinder is also an advocate
swap bottles. It quickly became a leading for maintaining authenticity and
platform for single malt whisky sales, trustworthiness in the secondary whisky
and within a decade was named online market; he and the Whisky.Auction
whisky retailer of the year in the Icons team recently assisted an investigation
of Whisky. The company now has three by London’s Metropolitan Police to
shops in London in addition to its online track down the the fraudster behind a
retail business, and also organises The VLJQLÀFDQWQXPEHURIIRUJHGUDUHVSLULWV
Whisky Show, an event that has set
the benchmark for engagement and

Despite being the son of medical of Whisky, one of the earliest food and
professionals, it was clear from a young whisky pairing books. He also writes about
age that Hans Offringa would be a whisky for 11 magazines and newspapers
writer; he was editor of his high school on a regular basis and is European
newspaper and worked as a copy editor contributing editor for Whisky Magazine.
at a local newspaper company. He also Since 2002, Hans has been presenting
had a keen interest in whisky, giving his and judging for national and international
ÀUVWWXWRUHGWDVWLQJVLQKLVKRPHFRXQWU\ whisky competitions including the World
of the Netherlands in 1984. These Whiskies Awards. He was co-founder
interests collided in 1990 when he began and patron of the Whisky Festival Noord
writing articles about whisky – around Nederland (WFNN) from 2006–2022.
the same time he helped to develop a It was at this festival in 2009 that
‘publishing and printing on demand’ International Whisk(e)y Day – which he co-
model for book printing and distribution. founded in honour of British whisky writer
+DQV·ÀUVWZKLVN\ERRNZDVSXEOLVKHG Michael Jackson – was launched.
Inductee No. 86 in 1998. Since then, he has written 40 Hans was made a Kentucky Colonel
books on the subject, contributed to by the Governor of Kentucky in 2014 for
+DQV2̆ULQJD 16 books by other whisky writers, and his contributions to bourbon history and
Whisky author and judge translated nine whisky books into Dutch. was made a Keeper of the Quaich in 2016
His own books have been translated for his dedicated promotion of Scotch
LQWRÀYHODQJXDJHV+LVZLIH%HFN\KDV whisky. He is a lifetime international
worked with him since 2006 as research ambassador for the Spirit of Speyside
manager, contributing editor and/or Festival, an honorary ambassador of the
co-author of his books; together, they are Scotch Malt Whisky Society, and a board
known as The Whisky Couple. member of US organisation the Council of
Among his most remarkable books are Whiskey Masters.
A Field Guide to Whisky (100,000 copies
sold to date), the autobiographical The
Road to Craigellachie, and 2007’s A Taste

88 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Icons of Whisky 2023 America, India & Rest of World

A STAR CAST
Celebrating the leading lights in the global whisky industry

A
fter commending regional winners ‹‡”•–Š‡’”‘ ‡‡†–‘„‡Œ—†‰‡†ƒ––Š‡
in Scotland, Ireland, America, India, global level to establish the best of the best for
and Rest of World, the Icons of each calendar year.
Whisky awards has revealed its Š‡ ‘•‘ˆŠ‹•›ƒ™ƒ”†•ƒ”‡Œ—†‰‡†„›
global winners for 2023. a panel of impartial experts, which includes
From producers to bartenders to marketers, the global Whisky Magazine editorial team
the Icons of Whisky have been celebrating ƒ†”‡‰‹‘Ǧ•’‡ ‹ϐ‹ •—„Ǧ’ƒ‡Ž•–‘‡•—”‡Ž‘ ƒŽ
the industry’s leading lights and most fervent ‡š’‡”–‹•‡ƒ–‡ƒ Š•–ƒ‰‡‘ˆŒ—†‰‹‰ǤŽ‡ƒ•‡‘–‡
champions for two decades. that people, places, and campaigns must be
‘•‘ˆŠ‹•›‹•ϐ‹”•–Œ—†‰‡†™‹–Š‹ ‘ˆϐ‹ ‹ƒŽŽ›‡–‡”‡†‹–‘–Š‡ ‘’‡–‹–‹‘„›ƒ
the aforementioned ring-fenced ‘regions’, representative to be considered, and members
encompassing established whisky-producing ‘ˆ–Š‡Œ—†‰‹‰’ƒ‡Ž†‘‘–Šƒ˜‡–Š‡’‘™‡”–‘
ƒ–‹‘•Ǥ–”ƒ–•–‘‡ƒ Š ƒ–‡‰‘”›ƒ”‡ϐ‹”•– add in their own nominations.
Œ—†‰‡†ƒ‰ƒ‹•–’‡‡”•ˆ”‘–Š‡‹”‘™”‡‰‹‘ǡ For more information, please visit
to set category criteria using submitted iconsofwhisky.com and the entry portal at
supporting evidence. worldwhiskiesawards.com.

Sponsors

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 89


Icons of Whisky 2023 America, India & Rest of World

DISTILLER CAMPAIGN INNOVATOR DISTILLER


SPONSORED BY GLENCAIRN CRYSTAL STUDIO O’Shaughnessy Distilling Company SPONSORED BY GLENCAIRN CRYSTAL STUDIO
Heaven Hill Brands Highly Commended Beam Suntory India
Highly Commended 1792 Bourbon
Barton 1792 Distillery CRAFT PRODUCER
BAR Godawan Distillery
CRAFT PRODUCER SPONSORED BY HELLMANN
Chattanooga Whiskey Bourbons Bistro VISITOR ATTRACTION
Highly Commended Paul John Visitor Centre
A Smith Bowman INDEPENDENT BOTTLER
Lost Lantern Spirits BRAND INNOVATOR
SUSTAINABLE DISTILLERY
Heaven Hill Distillery Radico Khaitan
SINGLE OUTLET RETAILER Highly Commended
SPONSORED BY THE GLENTURRET Diageo India – Godawan Malt and Epitome Legacy
VISITOR ATTRACTION McCallum and Sons Whisky Co.
The Sazerac House MASTER DISTILLER/MASTER BLENDER
Highly Commended Anup Barik, Radico Khaitan
Buffalo Trace Distillery

BRAND INNOVATOR SCOTCH WHISKY BRAND AMBASSADOR


Broken Barrel Shweta Jain, Diageo
Highly Commended
Barrell Vantage WORLD WHISKY BRAND AMBASSADOR
Rakshit Jagdale, Amrut Distilleries
MASTER DISTILLER/MASTER BLENDER
Caleb Kilburn, Kentucky Peerless CAMPAIGN INNOVATOR
Highly Commended Glenmorangie
Conor O’Driscoll, Heaven Hill Brands
Jonathan Likarish, Ironroot Republic BAR GROUP
The Taj Hotels
DISTILLERY MANAGER Highly Commended
Tyler Pederson, Westland Distillery Old World Hospitality

AMERICAN WHISKEY BRAND AMBASSADOR BAR MANAGER


Lynn House, Heaven Hill Brands Prantik Haldar, Bombay Canteen
Highly Commended Highly Commended
Freddie Johnson, Buffalo Trace Distillery Govind Koranga, Americano

WORLD WHISKY BRAND AMBASSADOR BAR


Koray Kaan Özdemir, Paul John Indian Bastian Worli
Single Malt Whisky Highly Commended
5HÀQHU\
VISITOR ATTRACTION MANAGER Providore The Bar
Matt Higgins, Buffalo Trace Distillery These pages, clockwise from top left: Westland
Highly Commended Distillery manager Tyler Pederson; Bottlings from BARTENDER
Susan Nogues, Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey Lost Lantern; Glenmorangie’s India-exclusive Dilbar Rawat, Loya
packaging design; Jamie Lin from Kavalan Whisky
Bar; Emma Cookson; McCallum and Sons Whisky Co.;
Paul John ambassador Koray Kaan Özdemir.

90 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Icons of Whisky 2023 America, India & Rest of World

CHEF DISTILLER BARTENDER


Arun Sundararaj, The Taj Mahal SPONSORED BY GLENCAIRN CRYSTAL STUDIO James Lin, Kavalan Whisky Bar
Highly Commended Kavalan Distillery
Nikhil Nagpal, ITC Grand Chola BAR MANAGER
CRAFT PRODUCER Lachlan Watt, Whisky & Alement
F&B MANAGER The M&H Distillery Highly Commended
Ritesh Kasture, The Taj Lands End Highly Commended Shawn Soole, Clive’s Classic Lounge
Highly Commended Macaloney’s Island Distillery
Upender Singh Tomar, ITC Maratha HOTEL BAR
SUSTAINABLE DISTILLERY Clive’s Classic Lounge
GENERAL MANAGER (HOTEL) SPONSORED BY SARTEN
Ritesh Sharma, The Taj Mahal Palace Stauning Whisky BAR
Highly Commended SPONSORED BY HELLMANN
Vikramaditya Singh, The Claridges VISITOR ATTRACTION Whisky & Alement
The M&H Distillery Visitor Center Highly Commended
HOTEL BAR Highly Commended Kavalan Whisky Bar
Harbour Bar Sullivans Cove Distillery
Highly Commended COOPERAGE
The Brass Room BRAND INNOVATOR Casknolia
Cheroot The M&H Distillery
The Writers Bar
Highly Commended INDEPENDENT BOTTLER
Sullivans Cove Master of Malt
BUYER
Ashish Seth, The Taj Hotels SINGLE ESTATE
Highly Commended BUYER
Thy Whisky Distillery
Nandhini Sriniwas, Mumbai Duty Free John Vine, Waitrose
Highly Commended
MASTER DISTILLER/MASTER BLENDER
MULTIPLE OUTLET RETAILER Julie Trewren, Master of Malt
Tomer Goren, The M&H Distillery
Tonique
Highly Commended MULTIPLE OUTLET RETAILER
Heather Tillott, Sullivans Cove
SINGLE OUTLET RETAILER WhiskyBrother & Co
The Cellar DISTILLERY MANAGER
SPONSORED BY LARKFIRE ONLINE RETAILER
TRAVEL RETAILER Heather Tillott, Sullivans Cove Master of Malt
Mumbai Duty Free Highly Commended Highly Commended
Gal Kalkshtein, The M&H Distillery The Whisky List
COMMUNICATOR
Bikramjit Ray AMERICAN WHISKEY BRAND AMBASSADOR SUPERMARKET
Cam Dawson, Brown-Forman Waitrose
ADVERTISING AGENCY
White Media Marketing IRISH WHISKEY BRAND AMBASSADOR COMMUNICATOR
SPONSORED BY WHISKY AUCTIONEER
Chris Hayes, Teeling Whiskey
Highly Commended
Emma Cookson
Alan Malone, Powerscourt Distillery Highly Commended
Millie Milliken
WORLD WHISKY BRAND AMBASSADOR
Ally Bhana, Sullivans Cove DESIGN AGENCY
SPONSORED BY MCLAREN PACKAGING
Highly Commended
Tal Chotiner, The M&H Distillery
Nude Brand Creation

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 91


Icons of Whisky 2023 Global

Single Outlet Retailer


Multiple Outlet Retailer 6SRQVRUHGE\The Glenturret Supermarket

WHISKY BROTHER & CO. McCALLUM AND SONS WHISKY CO. WAITROSE
Rest of World America Rest of World
WhiskyBrother, named single outlet retailer of the Opened in 2021, McCallum and Sons Whisky To meet the growing demand for international
year at the Icons of Whisky in 2020, has opened Co. is an independent whisky shop dedicated to whiskies, Waitrose is continually adding new
WZRQHZVWRUHVLQ-RKDQQHVEXUJRYHUWKHODVWWZR giving customers a luxury experience. Founders varieties from around the world to its already large
years offering the same customer service, range of Maxine and Glen have no prior formal experience, range of whiskies. Four new lines were entered into
products and premium shopping environment in a EXWDZHDOWKRINQRZOHGJHDQGORYHIRUFXUDWLQJ WKHVXSHUPDUNHW·VSUHVVWDVWLQJVLQ6HSWHPEHU
smaller package. These satellite stores continue to customer experiences. The company’s success is ,QWRWDOZKLVNLHVDUHQRZVROGE\
specialise in whisky, offering the largest range in said to come from prioritising the education of its Waitrose, with styles ranging from single malts
6RXWK$IULFDDVZHOODVZKLVN\ERRNVWDVWLQJVHWV customers, as well as showcasing spirits at a range made in the remote Scottish Highlands to whiskies
JODVVZDUHDQGVLQJOHFDVNH[FOXVLYHVIURPEUDQGV of price points. EOHQGHGLQWKHLVODQGVRI-DSDQZKLFKFDQEH
DQGGLVWLOOHULHVKLVWRULFDOO\XQDYDLODEOHLQWKHFLW\ SXUFKDVHGLQEUDQFKRURQOLQH7KHVXSHUPDUNHW
Regional Winners
also provides an in-depth guide to help customers
Regional Winners India – The Cellar
ÀQGWKHSHUIHFWZKLVN\ RUZKLVNLHV IRUWKHP
India – Tonique Ireland – Celtic Whiskey Shop
Ireland²$HU5LDQWD,QWHUQDWLRQDO $5, Scotland – Gordon & MacPhail South Street

Online Retailer Travel Retailer Buyer

MASTER OF MALT AER RIANTA INTERNATIONAL (ARI) ALLY ALPINE


Rest of World Ireland CELTIC WHISKEY SHOP
Ireland
Master of Malt has more than 3,800 whiskies in $HU5LDQWD,QWHUQDWLRQDOLVRQHRIWKHELJJHVW
stock, covering a wide variety of styles and tastes. UHWDLOHUVLQWKHZRUOGRIJOREDOWUDYHODQGLVWKH Ally has more than 20 years’ experience in the
These range from high-end and rare expressions SDUHQWFRPSDQ\RI7KH/RRS'XW\)UHHDW'XEOLQ spirits industry and founded Celtic Whiskey Shop in
WRDURWDWLQJUDQJHRIÁDVKVDOHERWWOHVDQGPO Airport, home to the Irish Whiskey Collection. +HDQGKLVWHDPDUHUHVSRQVLEOHIRUWKHYDVW
VDPSOHVL]HGGUDPVFRYHULQJDOOEXGJHWV7KLV 7KHVWRUHVKRZFDVHVWKHEHVWRIERWK,ULVKDQG DPRXQWVRISURGXFWVDYDLODEOHWREX\RQOLQHDQG
LVFRPELQHGZLWKLQIRUPDOHGXFDWLRQDOSURGXFW LQWHUQDWLRQDOEUDQGVZKLOHRIIHULQJDQDFFODLPHG LQVWRUHIURPWKHVKRSHVWLPDWHGWREHPRUHWKDQ
GHVFULSWLRQVEORJIHDWXUHVFDPSDLJQVDQG shopping experience to passengers. Digital 3,000. He has great working relationships with
creative social media content. In the last year, the technology and advancements are consistently distilleries across Ireland and Scotland, sourcing a
Master of Malt site has seen a complete overhaul EHLQJDGGHGWKURXJKRXWWKHVWRUHDVZHOODV variety of rare casks and limited-edition releases.
to improve customers’ online shopping experience. SHUVRQDOLVHGEUDQGHGZDOOED\V
Regional Winners
Regional Winners Regional Winners India – Ashish Seth, The Taj Hotels
Ireland – Celtic Whiskey Shop India²0XPEDL'XW\)UHH Rest of World – John Vine, Waitrose
Scotland – TyndrumWhisky.com Scotland – Craig Dearden, Tyndrum Whisky

92 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Icons of Whisky 2023 Global

Bar
6SRQVRUHGE\Hellmann Hotel Bar Bar Group

BOURBONS BISTRO CLIVE’S CLASSIC LOUNGE KILKENNY WHISKEY GUILD


America Rest of World Ireland
%RXUERQV%LVWURRSHQHGLQDV/RXLVYLOOH·V Clive’s Classic Lounge was one of the original .LONHQQ\:KLVNH\*XLOGLVDFROOHFWLRQRI
ÀUVWERXUERQEDUZLWKDPLVVLRQWRHGXFDWHWKH FRFNWDLODQGVSLULWEDUVLQ9LFWRULD%ULWLVK HVWDEOLVKPHQWVWKURXJKRXW,UHODQG·V0HGLHYDO
SXEOLFDERXWDQGHOHYDWHWKHSURÀOHRI.HQWXFN\·V &ROXPELD&DQDGDRSHQLQJDIWHUDUHQRYDWLRQ capital, with each premises stocking a minimum
QDWLYHVSLULW7KHERXUERQEDUDQGUHVWDXUDQW in 2009. Since the pandemic and the return of of 60 Irish whiskeys and assisting in customers’
IHDWXUHVPRUHWKDQVHOHFWLRQVRIERXUERQDQG EDUPDQDJHU6KDZQ6RROH&OLYH·VKDVH[SDQGHG H[SHULHQFHWKURXJKNQRZOHGJHDEOHVWDIIWDVWLQJ
whiskies as well as a menu of southern-inspired its whisky and spirit offerings exponentially. The ÁLJKWVIRRGSDLULQJVDQGPL[RORJ\5HJXODU
FXLVLQHXVLQJORFDOO\VRXUFHGSURGXFWV/HGE\ VXFFHVVRIWKHKRWHOEDULVQRWMXVWGRZQWRWKH whiskey events are held in each of the guild
FRRZQHU-DVRQ%UDXQHU%RXUERQVDOVRSLRQHHUHG expansive drinks menu and solid grounding in KRXVHVWRKHLJKWHQSXEOLFNQRZOHGJHRI,ULVK
VHYHUDOEDUUHOVHOHFWLRQSURJUDPPHV FODVVLFFRFNWDLOVEXWDOVRWKHYDULHW\RILWVPRQWKO\ whiskey history, production, and various styles.
events and dinners programme. 7KHJXLOGDLPVWRPDNH.LONHQQ\DOHDGLQJZKLVNH\
Regional Winners
tourism destination in Ireland.
India – Bastian Worli Regional Winners
Ireland – Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder India²+DUERXU%DUThe Taj Mahal Palace Regional Winners
Rest of World – Whisky & Alement India ²7KH7DM+RWHOV

Bar Manager Bartender General Manager (Hotel)

LACHLAN WATT JAMES LIN EDDIE LANGTON


WHISKY & ALEMENT KAVALAN WHISKY BAR KILKENNY WHISKEY GUILD
Rest of World Rest of World Ireland
/DFKODQKDVEHHQDWWKHKHOPRI:KLVN\ $OHPHQW ,Q-DPHV/LQMRLQHGWKH$VLDWHDPDQG (GGLH/DQJWRQLVDIRXQGLQJPHPEHUDQG
IRUPRUHWKDQVL[\HDUV$ÀJXUHRIGHGLFDWLRQDQG GHYHORSHGDFRFNWDLOPHQXZLWKEDUOHDGHU+DQN FKDLUSHUVRQRI.LONHQQ\:KLVNH\*XLOG+H
enthusiasm, his knowledge of whisky in Australia 7VHQJ+HZDVUHFUXLWHGDVEDUPDQDJHUDW/D]\ represents Langtons on the historic John Street
LVVWURQJZLWKWKHEDUUHFHLYLQJJORZLQJUHYLHZV Point in 2017, spearheading operations and LQ.LONHQQ\(VWDEOLVKHGLQDV/DQJWRQV%DU
from guests for the quality of its classes, events, FRFNWDLOPHQXFUHDWLRQ+HMRLQHG.DYDODQ:KLVN\ the venue now also includes Langtons Hotel, Set
DQGEDUVHUYLFH/DFKODQPDQDJHVWUDLQLQJIRUDOO %DUDVEDUOHDGHULQDQGKDVVLQFHEHHQ Theatre, Bridie’s Bar, John Street Tea Rooms and
EDUVWDIIWRPDLQWDLQWKHKLJKOHYHOVRIH[SHFWDWLRQ FRPPLWWHGWRGHYHORSLQJDQGSURPRWLQJWKHEUDQG 7KH*DUGHQ5HVWDXUDQW(GGLHZDVERUQLQWRWKH
in service, while also showing great skill in the WKURXJKFUHDWLYHEDUH[SHULHQFHVDQGPL[RORJ\ SXEWUDGHDQGLVSDVVLRQDWHDERXWWKHIXWXUHRI
creation of cocktails. the industry while respecting and exploring the
Regional Winners
KLVWRU\RQZKLFKLWKDVEHHQEXLOW
Regional Winners Ireland – Evan O’Connor,
India – Prantik Haldar, Bombay Canteen Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder Regional Winners
Ireland – Jim Rafferty, Kilkenny Whiskey Guild India²'LOEDU5DZDWLoya India – Ritesh Sharma, The Taj Mahal Palace

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 93


Icons of Whisky 2023 Global

Communicator American Whiskey


Chef 6SRQVRUHGE\Whisky Auctioneer Brand Ambassador

ARUN SUNDARARAJ EMMA COOKSON CAM DAWSON


THE TAJ MAHAL Rest of World BROWN-FORMAN
India Rest of World
The Whisky List’s Emma Cookson is an award-
&KHI$UXQ6XQGDUDUDMLVDFXOLQDU\DQGEHYHUDJH ZLQQLQJEDUWHQGHUZULWHUZKLVN\DQGFRFNWDLO &DPKDVEHHQDQLQWHJUDOSDUWRIWKH-DFN'DQLHO·V
maestro who started his career 28 years ago specialist, presenter and international tastings WHDPIRUPRUHWKDQHLJKW\HDUVKDYLQJÀUVWMRLQHG
ZLWK7KH7DM0DKDO0XPEDLDQGKDVVWD\HG host. In 2022 she was selected as one of the DV8.EUDQGDPEDVVDGRULQ$SULO'XULQJ
ZLWK7DM+RWHOVHYHUVLQFH0RUHUHFHQWO\KHKDV 7RS%DUWHQGHUVLQ$XVWUDOLD$QH[SHUWLQERWK that time, Cam has helped to fuel a period of
UHLPDJLQHGWKHPHQXVDW0DFKDQDQG&KDPEHUV Scottish and Australian whisky, Emma honed her JURZWKIRU-DFN'DQLHO·VDQGWKHEURDGHU$PHULFDQ
and the House of Ming. As a whisky lover, knowledge at Whisky & Alement and has also ZKLVNH\FDWHJRU\LQVSLULQJEDUWHQGHUVDOORYHUWKH
6XQGDUDUDMKDVIUHTXHQWO\PDGHGLVKHVXVLQJWKH travelled Australia, visiting dozens of distilleries, 8.DQGH[FLWLQJFRQVXPHUVWKURXJKKLVWUDGHPDUN
spirit, and various Indian whiskies including the providing her with extensive technical knowledge. EUDQGHGHYHQWV&DP·VSDVVLRQIRUDOOWKLQJV-DFN
likes of Rampur Indri and Gianchand have also LVLQIHFWLRXVDQGKHKDVEHHQNQRZQWRVZD\HYHQ
Regional Winners
EHHQDGGHGWRWKHPHQX the staunchest of Scotch whisky drinkers.
India²%LNUDPMLW5D\
Ireland – Barry Chandler Regional Winners
Scotland²-DVRQ&DPSEHOO7KRPVRQ America – Lynn House, Heaven Hill Brands

Irish Whiskey Scotch Whisky World Whisky


Brand Ambassador Brand Ambassador Brand Ambassador

CHRIS HAYES MARK THOMSON KORAY KAAN ÖZDEMIR


TEELING WHISKEY WILLIAM GRANT & SONS PAUL JOHN WHISKY
Rest of World Scotland America
&KULVLVDSRSXODUDQGZHOONQRZQÀJXUHLQWKH ,Q0DUNEHFDPHWKH*OHQÀGGLFKEUDQG .RUD\.DDQg]GHPLUÀUVWEHJDQZLWK3DXO-RKQ
whiskey world. After six years as Teeling European DPEDVVDGRUIRU6FRWODQGDQGKDVVLQFHFRQWLQXHG Indian Single Malt Whisky as the US West Coast
EUDQGDPEDVVDGRUKHLVFRQVWDQWO\ORRNLQJWRDGG to share his love and enthusiasm for whisky and EUDQGDPEDVVDGRU+HPRYHGWRDGLYLVLRQ
feathers to his cap, learning multiple languages, spirits. After more than 17 years in the whisky of Sazerac in April 2021 as its US portfolio
FRPSOHWLQJFHUWLÀFDWHVLQGLVWLOOLQJDQGJURZLQJ LQGXVWU\0DUNEHFDPHWKH.HHSHURIWKH4XDLFK DPEDVVDGRUZKLFKLQFOXGHGPRQLWRULQJWKH
Teeling’s on-trade platform Crafted to Create. His in 2019. He offers whisky courses to consumers entire portfolio of Scotch, American and Canadian
determination to spread the word of Irish whiskey and trade individuals alike, introducing them to whiskies. His primary focus, however, has always
has seen him visit Northern Africa, Eastern Europe *OHQÀGGLFKDQGWKHZKLVN\FDWHJRU\LQJHQHUDO+H EHHQRQWKH,QGLDQVLQJOHPDOWDQGKHKDVH[FHOOHG
and Scandinavia, connecting with whiskey fans, uses his social media platforms to entertain and VLQFHEHFRPLQJ3DXO-RKQ·VQDWLRQDODPEDVVDGRU
EDUWHQGHUVMRXUQDOLVWVDQGSURGXFHUV educate, as well as hosting charity auctions online.
Regional Winners
Regional Winners Regional Winners India – Rakshit Jagdale, Amrut Distilleries
Ireland – Dan Grummel, Blackwater Distillery India – Shweta Jain, Diageo Rest of World – Ally Bhana, Sullivans Cove

94 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Icons of Whisky 2023 Global

Design Agency
PR Agency 6SRQVRUHGE\McLaren Packaging Brand Innovator

SPEY NUDE BRAND CREATION WATERFORD DISTILLERY


Scotland Rest of World Ireland
%DVHGLQ6SH\VLGHJOREDO35DJHQF\63(<KDV 1XGH%UDQG&UHDWLRQLVDVSHFLDOLVWEUDQGLQJDQG In the past year, Waterford has revealed a new
earned the award for a second consecutive year, packaging design agency with nearly 20 years’ VLGHWR,ULVKZKLVNH\FHOHEUDWLQJWKHLVODQG·V
EXLOGLQJRQLWVUHSXWDWLRQIRUDZDUGZLQQLQJ experience focusing on premium wine and spirits. VRLOODERXUDQGJUDLQZKLOHQHYHUEHLQJDIUDLGWR
FDPSDLJQVIRULWVZKLVN\EUDQGV$PRQJLWVFOLHQWV In the last 12 months, the agency has worked SXVKWKHERXQGDULHVDQGFKDOOHQJHLWVGULQNHUV
in the last year, Ardgowan Distillery has partnered RQDYDULHW\RIZKLVN\SURMHFWVZLWKEUDQGVVXFK Releases such as its peated whisky, made with
with Heriot-Watt University to develop pioneering as Chivas Regal, Ballantine’s, Royal Salute, ,ULVKKDUYHVWHGSHDWDQG,ULVKJURZQEDUOH\KDYH
WHFKQRORJ\ZLWKWKHJRDORIEHFRPLQJFDUERQ 5HGEUHDVWDQG-DPHVRQ showcased the distillery’s drive to innovate and
QHJDWLYH63(<KDVDOVRDQQRXQFHGWKHLPPLQHQW revolutionise the category.
RSHQLQJRIWKH8.·VÀUVWYHUWLFDOGLVWLOOHU\3RUW
Regional Winners
RI/HLWKFRIRXQGHGE\,DQ6WLUOLQJDQG3DGG\
America – Broken Barrel
Fletcher of Lind & Lime.
India²5DGLFR.KDLWDQ
Rest of World – The M&H Distillery
Scotland – Holyrood Distillery

Campaign Innovator
6SRQVRUHGE\Berlin Packaging Independent Bottler Visitor Attraction Manager

GLENMORANGIE LOST LANTERN SPIRITS LISA JAMESON


India America TEELING WHISKEY
Ireland
Among the innovative campaigns produced 9HUPRQWEDVHG/RVW/DQWHUQODXQFKHGLQ
E\*OHQPRUDQJLHLQWKHSDVWPRQWKVLVD VW\OHGDVD6FRWWLVKVW\OHLQGHSHQGHQWERWWOHU 6LQFHMRLQLQJ7HHOLQJ:KLVNH\LQ/LVDKDV
FROODERUDWLRQZLWK,QGLDQDUWLVW$QLUXGGK0HKWD focused on new American whiskies. The founders’ EXLOWDVWURQJH[SHULHQFHGWHDPDURXQGKHU6KH
²EHWWHUNQRZQDVWKH%LJ)DW0LQLPDOLVW²WR mission is to help whiskey enthusiasts discover devotes much of her time to engaging the tourism
create a localised limited-edition festival pack distilleries and whiskies they otherwise may not industry and forging international relationships
exclusively for the Indian market. Glenmorangie have. Lost Lantern has released more than three to make Teeling one of the country’s top visitor
DOVRFROODERUDWHGZLWK,QGLDQ$PHULFDQDUWLVW dozen single casks from 17 distilleries in 13 US DWWUDFWLRQV$PHPEHURIWKH$VVRFLDWLRQRI9LVLWRU
.DUVK.DOHWRGHYHORSWKH'HOLFLRXV'HVLJQ3URMHFW states. The company is committed to transparency, Experiences and Attractions and the Irish Whiskey
a digital art and music experience that marked the IHDWXULQJWKHVRXUFHGLVWLOOHU\QDPHVRQLWVODEHOV Association tourism committee, Lisa works with her
EUDQG·VQH[WVWHSVLQOX[XU\H[SHULHQFHV peers to promote whiskey tourism across Ireland.
Regional Winners
Regional Winners Ireland – Two Stacks Whiskey Regional Winners
America – O’Shaughnessy Distilling Company Rest of World – Master of Malt America – Matt Higgins, Buffalo Trace Distillery
Ireland – Waterford Distillery Scotland – Lady of the Glen Scotland – Colin Hart, The Glenturret

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 95


Icons of Whisky 2023 Global

Visitor Attraction Cooper Cooperage

JOHNNIE WALKER PRINCES STREET ANDY MOORE CASKNOLIA


Scotland LOCH LOMOND COOPERAGE Rest of World
Scotland
-RKQQLH:DONHU3ULQFHV6WUHHWDQHLJKWÁRRUYLVLWRU Casknolia is at the forefront of a new golden age
H[SHULHQFHLQ(GLQEXUJKLVWKHFHQWUHSLHFHRI In his role as senior cooper at Loch Lomond in coopering, marrying traditional techniques and
'LDJHR·V PLOOLRQSRXQGLQYHVWPHQWLQZKLVN\ Cooperage, Andy oversees seven full-time coopers generations of expertise with the needs and ideals
tourism in Scotland. The attraction takes the DQGWZRDSSUHQWLFHV0RRUHKDVPRUHWKDQ RIWRGD\·VZKLVN\PDNHUV/HGQRZE\WKHVHFRQG
concept of personalisation to a new level, with the years’ experience as a cooper. He plays an integral generation, this family cooperage stands at the
Johnnie Walker Journey of Flavour tour allowing part in overseeing the quality of all casks used vanguard of a commitment to quality, innovation
JXHVWVWRKDYHWKHLUSHUVRQDOÁDYRXUSUHIHUHQFHV across the Loch Lomond Group, and therefore in DQGVXVWDLQDELOLW\LQWKHLQGXVWU\:KLOHVXSSO\LQJ
mapped with drinks tailored to individual palates. the release of all Loch Lomond products. The last virgin oak casks made from American, Danish,
12 months have seen the cooperage check, repair Spanish and French oak, it is Casknolia’s sherry
Regional Winners
and maintain in excess of 20,000 casks across a casks that have drawn particular acclaim.
America – The Sazerac House
variety of sizes and woods.
India – Paul John Visitor Centre Regional Winners
Ireland – Powerscourt Distillery & Visitor Centre Scotland – Loch Lomond Cooperage (Cooperage
Rest of World – The M&H Distillery Visitor Center 021)

Sustainable Distillery Single Estate Distillery Manager


6SRQVRUHGE\Sarten 6SRQVRUHGE\/DUNÀUH

STAUNING WHISKY LOCHLEA DISTILLERY TYLER PEDERSON


Rest of World Scotland WESTLAND DISTILLERY
America
6WDXQLQJKDVKDGDVWURQJIRFXVRQVXVWDLQDELOLW\ /RFKOHDJURZVSHUFHQW/DXUHDWHEDUOH\DWD
VLQFHLWVLQFHSWLRQLQDQGWKLVSKLORVRSK\ IDUPRQVLWHDOOZLWKLQNPRIWKHGLVWLOOHU\7ZR As Westland’s manager, Tyler manages the entire
RIHQYLURQPHQWDODZDUHQHVVZDVEXLOWLQWRWKH successful malting trials were conducted in 2022, whiskey-making process at the distillery and also
IDEULFRILWVQHZGLVWLOOHU\ZKLFKRSHQHGLQZHVWHUQ ZLWKKRSHVWRHVWDEOLVKDIXOOPDOWÁRRUE\ stewards core programmes that put Westland
Denmark in 2018. Improvements at the distillery in All milling, mashing, fermentation, distillation at the cutting edge of the whiskey industry. He
the last year have continued to enhance this focus, and warehousing is conducted at the distillery, LVDWWKHFHQWUHRI:HVWODQG·V3DFLÀF1RUWKZHVW
for example recycling energy from its kiln while too. The team regularly analyse ways to improve peat programme, relationships with farmers, and
drying to heat water for mashing and cleaning and every process, keeping one eye on the long- experimentation with maltsters, and serves as the
WRKHDWLWVRIÀFHVDQGVKRS term protection of the land and environmentally face of Westland in the local distiller’s guild.
UHVSRQVLEOHEHKDYLRXU
Regional Winners Regional Winners
America – Heaven Hill Brands Regional Winners Ireland – Michelle Guilfoyle, Dingle Distillery
Ireland – Midleton Distillery Rest of World – Thy Whisky Distillery Rest of World – Heather Tillott, Sullivans Cove
Scotland – Tomatin Distillery Scotland – Marc Watson, Holyrood Distillery

96 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


Icons of Whisky 2023 Global

Master Distiller/Master Blender


GREGG GLASS joining Whyte & Mackay, Gregg made his name
WHYTE & MACKAY at respected Scottish whisky blending house
Scotland Compass Box.
Gregg Glass was appointed master whisky maker Regional Winners
in 2021 as luminary Richard Paterson stepped America – Caleb Kilburn, Kentucky Peerless
back and 2022 bore witness to his tenure in India – Anup Barik, Radico Khaitan
practice, including the launch of Whyte & Mackay’s Ireland – Paul Corbett, Powerscourt Distillery
6FRWWLVK2DNSURJUDPPHDÀUVW6FRWWLVK2DN Rest of World – Tomer Goren, The M&H Distillery
expression, and the planting of a small urban
forest. Gregg is passionate about the balance
of nature and nurture in whisky making. Prior to

Craft Producer

CHATTANOOGA WHISKEY developing their malt-forward style of straight


America bourbon. Some 7,000 barrels later, Chattanooga
Whiskey now offers six mainstay expressions while
Now in its 10th year, Chattanooga Whiskey has
continuing to release experimental batches.
become an innovative and stylistic leader in one
of the USA’s most highly regarded whiskey-making Regional Winners
regions. After working for two years to help change India – Godawan Distillery
century-old distilling laws for some of Tennessee’s Ireland – Blackwater Distillery
counties, the small team at Chattanooga Rest of World²7KH0 +'LVWLOOHU\
Whiskey commissioned one of the country’s Scotland – Nc’nean
ÀUVWVWDQGDORQHH[SHULPHQWDOGLVWLOOHULHV+HUH
they spent two years and more than 100 barrels

Distiller
Sponsored by Glencairn Crystal Studio

HEAVEN HILL BRANDS


America
)RXQGHGLQ.HQWXFN\E\WKH6KDSLUDIDPLO\LQ+HDYHQ+LOO%UDQGV
continues as the USA’s largest independent family-owned distilled spirits
SURGXFHUDQGPDUNHWHU8QGHUWKHFRUSRUDWHHQWLW\+HDYHQ+LOO'LVWLOOHU\
continues its legacy as one of the foremost American whiskey producers.
+HDYHQ+LOOKDVFXOWLYDWHGWKHWUDGLWLRQVDQGKLVWRU\RI$PHULFD·VQDWLYH
VSLULWZLWKLWVÀHUFHLQGHSHQGHQFHSDVVLRQDWHIDPLO\RZQHUVKLSGHGLFDWLRQ
WRTXDOLW\DQGWKRXJKWIXOLQQRYDWLRQ7RGD\+HDYHQ+LOO'LVWLOOHU\PDLQWDLQV
more than 1.9 million barrels ageing in more than 65 warehouses throughout
Nelson and Jefferson Counties. The distillery is home to an award-winning
collection of American whiskeys including bourbon brands Elijah Craig and
Larceny, along with its extensive Bottled-in-Bond label collection including its
namesake bourbon.
Regional Winners
India – Beam Suntory India
Ireland – Irish Distillers
Rest of World – Kavalan Distillery
Scotland – Glenfarclas Distillery

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 97


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Headline sponsor Glencairn Crystal Studio
Design – Sponsored by Hunter Luxury

SHOWCASING THE BEST


We reveal a global collection of winners

T
he team behind Whisky Magazine sub-panels. A global panel presides Sponsors
launched the World Whiskies ‘˜‡”–Š‡ϐ‹ƒŽ”‘—†‘ˆŒ—†‰‹‰ǤŠ‡
Awards in 2007, with the aim WWA taste categories cover the main
of judging and promoting the world's globally recognised styles of whisky,
best whiskies through a comprehensive with further segmentation by age. Each
annual tasting. The competition now entry is assessed for its 'nose', 'palate',
has two strands: taste and design. ƒ†̵ϐ‹‹•Š̵ǡ™‹–Š“—ƒŽ‹–›ƒ† ‘’Ž‡š‹–›
To enter, whiskies must be available taken into account when scoring.
for purchase by the general public in Design entries are similarly judged by
bottles and conform to the criteria an expert panel with design experience
of a relevant entry category. Taste across a range of industries.
entries are blind-tasted by an expert For more information on the entry
‹–‡”ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ’ƒ‡Ž‹ Ž—†‹‰ϐ‹‰—”‡• process and categories, and to view a
from the hospitality, media, retail, and full list of 2023 winners and medallists,
drinks industries, alongside regional visit worldwhiskiesawards.com.

BEST LABEL DESIGN


The Whistler
WORLD’S BEST DESIGN Imperial Stout Cask Finish
& BEST BOTTLE DESIGN GOLD
Johnnie Walker The Princes
Street Collective: Johnnie
Cù Bòcan Walker X Harris Tweed
Lark Wolf Release V
15 Years Old
SILVER
Belgian Owl Identity
GOLD
Dirtgrain Mash Bill #08
Belgian Owl Identity
Fettercairn 18 Years Old
Hidden Lake Cask No. 195
Scottish Oak 2022
Glasgow 1770 Peated
SILVER – Rich & Smoky
Bird Creek Single Cask Mackmyra Destination
Coachbuilt 001 Powerscourt
Glasgow 1770 Peated – Rich & Smoky Fercullen Falls
Jeptha Creed Straight 4-Grain Bourbon Redemption Sur Lee
The Macklowe 4th Edition Cask 58 8 Years Old Single Malt St. Kilian Judas Priest
Man O’ Words Unpeated Single Cask Single Malt – Angel of Retribution
Redemption Rye Waterford Primavera
Wire Works Whisky Virgin Oak Finish Waterford
Feuille Morte
Waterloo The Surgeon

98 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Design – Sponsored by Hunter Luxury

BEST LIMITED BEST NEW LAUNCH DESIGN BEST PRESENTATION


EDITION DESIGN Bird Creek Lambay
The Craft Irish Single Cask 20 Years Old
Whiskey Co. GOLD GOLD
The Emerald Isle Castle & Key The Untold Story of Johnnie Walker The Princes Street
Kentucky Whiskey Collective: Johnnie Walker
GOLD SILVER X Harris Tweed
The Craft Irish Whiskey Co. The Taoscán The Borders SILVER
Monkey Shoulder Limited Edition Distillery WS:01 The Cardrona Otago
SILVER Borders Malt & Rye Pinot Release
Hinch 19 Years Old Bushmills The Dingle Samhain
Causeway Collection Lagavulin Islay Jazz
2012 Burgundy Cask Festival 2022
Hanson of Sonoma
Single Malt Double
Barrel
Hinch 19
Years Old
Vintage Series
Isle of Arran
24 Years Old

BEST RELAUNCH/REDESIGN BEST TRAVEL RETAIL BEST RANGE


Sonoma Distilling Co. EXCLUSIVE Uncle Nearest
Straight Bourbon Whiskey Jura GOLD
Belgian Owl
SILVER Islanders’ Expression No.2
SILVER
Royal Brackla Oloroso
Säntis Malt
12 Years Old
The Whistler
Royal Brackla Oloroso
21 Years Old

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 99


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Bourbon – Sponsored by Kentucky Bourbon Festival / Finished Bourbon

Best Kentucky
W.L. Weller
WORLD’S BEST C.Y.P.B. 47.5%
BOURBON Complex and balanced. Pear,
honeysuckle, burnt sugar,
Best Non Kentucky toffee, and warmth on the
nose – it smells delicious.
The Representative Caramel, vanilla, clove,
Bourbon 52.5% apple, and oak on the
palate. Long, slightly
Dark fruit, rich oak and toffee, and light spice on the nose. The palate ZDUPÀQLVK$Q
excellent product.
is soft, with lightly roasted nuts, herbal notes, brown sugar, cherries,
SHSSHUDQGOLJKWVSLFH$PHGLXPWRORQJÀQLVKZKLFKVRIWHQVRXW
beautifully. This is a balanced and very interesting whiskey that is
RXWVLGHWKHW\SLFDOERXUERQSURÀOH'LIIHUHQWEXWYHU\HQMR\DEOH

Best Kentucky
Broken Barrel
WORLD’S BEST Cask Strength Bourbon 57.5%
FINISHED BOURBON Sweet nose with fruit, honey,
some dark brown sugar,
Best Non Kentucky plums and dark chocolate.
Ironroot Republic Fruit and light cinnamon
on the palate, with a hint
Apotheosis 56.1% of peanut brittle. Very
smooth for the proof. Finish
The nose is full of roasted cornmeal, with some bright oak and overripe is dry, but not bitter.
blueberries, orchard fruits and dark berries. Tickling heat, but bursting
with fruit and honey to balance the warmth. Tastes... golden. The
ÀQLVKLVKRWEXWEDODQFHGLQRDNDQGKRQH\7KLVWDVWHVKDSS\

100 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Barrel Bourbon / Small Batch Bourbon

Best Kentucky
1792
WORLD’S BEST Single Barrel 49.3%
SINGLE BARREL BOURBON Perfumed alcohols, dried fruit, barrel char,
buttery caramel and yeasty aromas on the
Best Non Kentucky nose, then rich, sweet corn in the mouth.
Dries slowly into a moderately long and
Tumblin’ Dice FOHDQÀQLVK9HU\LQYLWLQJDQGGHPDQGLQJ
Single Barrel 57.5% of another sip.

&RROIUXLWVDODGRQWKHQRVHOLNHDOLJKWV\UXSFDQQHGIUXLWFRFNWDLO
and pear. Repeats on the tongue with some oak, and corn sweetness.
Finish is warm, with oak framing but still led by corn and fruit.

Best Non Kentucky


Filibuster
WORLD’S BEST Bottled In Bond
SMALL BATCH BOURBON Bourbon 50%
Best Kentucky Fragrant and aromatic
nose, with sweet corn and
Elijah Craig caramel apple. Vanilla,
crisp green apple, candied
Barrel Proof C922 62.4%
pecan and orange
zest on the palate.
Caramel, sweet corn, and brown sugar on the nose. Pleasant warmth.
Finish is balanced
Vanilla, caramel, hints of leather and menthol appear on the and satisfying with
SDODWH)LQLVKLVRDN\ZLWKYDQLOODDQGEXUQWVXJDU$QLQFUHGLEO\ more candied nuts,
good sipper at a high proof. Complex and intriguing. caramel and oak.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 101


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Corn / American Whiskey

Best American
12 Years & Under

WORLD’S BEST Ironroot Republic


CORN Hubris 58.9%

$ELJYDQLOODQRVHZLWKKHUEDO
Best Australian notes. Some corn, like
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW cornbread. Lots more
fresh vanilla cream on
Upshot WKHSDODWHDQGDÁDVK
Red Corn Whiskey 43% of apple. More vanilla
RQWKHÀQLVKZKLFKLV
Sweetcorn, blackcurrant and anise on the nose. Buttered quite hot and tingly.
popcorn, coconut toffees, fragrant black pepper, vanilla, foam
bananas, and gentle spices on the palate. Finish has more
notes of popcorn, spices, and blackcurrant. Very complex.

WORLD’S BEST
AMERICAN WHISKEY
Storm King Distilling Co.
Side Gig Whiskey 45%

Woody, cedar, chocolate and charcoal notes on the nose. The palate is perfumed
DQG\HDVW\ZLWKPLOGVZHHWQHVV,W·VTXLWHVSLF\DQGORQJRQWKHÀQLVK

102 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Tennessee / Canadian Blended

WORLD’S BEST
TENNESSEE
Jack Daniel’s
Bonded 50%

%HDXWLIXOIUXLW\DURPDVRIIUHVKDQGMXLF\DSSOHSHHOVIROORZHGE\EDQRIIHHSLH6ZHHWDQG
FUHDP\DURPDVRIKRQH\DQGPHULQJXHÀOOXSWKHSDODWHZLWKEURZQVXJDU/LJKWDQGEULJKW

WORLD’S BEST
CANADIAN BLENDED
13 to 20 Years

Gibson’s Finest
Venerable 40%

6XEWOHDFFHQWVOD\HUHGRQWKHQRVHIURPDSULFRWVIUXLWMDPDQGVZHHWFKHUU\WR
baking spices and old oak tannins. The palate is peppery and oaky with vanilla
DQGEDNLQJVSLFHV+HUEVDQGVSLFHRQWKHÀQLVK&RPSOH[DQGEDODQFHGZLWKRXW
JRLQJRYHUWKHWRSDQGWKHDOFRKROLVZHOOLQWHJUDWHG$JUHDWEOHQG

SHORTLIST
12 Years & Under
J.P. Wisers 10 Years Old 40%
21 Years & Over
Canadian Club 45 Years Old Chronicles Issue No.5 50%
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Legacy Canadian Whisky 40%

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 103


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Grain

WORLD’S BEST
GRAIN
Best Korean
No Age Statement

Hwayo
X. Premium 41%

Wet varnish and sharp lemony citrus on the nose. The palate has notes of burnt
caramel, toasted grain, tinned peaches, toffee apple, lemon peel and dessicated
coconut, rounded out with sweet cinnamon and peppery spice.

Best American Best Australian Best English


12 Years & Under No Age Statement No Age Statement

Bainbridge 78 Degrees The English


Yama Mizunara Cask 45% Triple Smoke Whiskey 44% Whisky Co.
Coconut shavings on the nose, with Soft leather and dusty grain and spice The Norfolk Farmers 45%
vanilla, nutmeg spice, cedar wood and notes on the nose. On the
Grassy notes with green
banoffee pie. On the palate there’s more palate there are notes
apples and green grapes.
old woodiness, overripe banana and more of yeast, husky grain,
A tropical feel from notes
nutmeg. A beautiful and delicate sipper. chocolate powder and
of honeydew melon on
nuts, with subtle leather
the mid palate, with warm
and rubbery notes.
spice, caraway and
SHORTLIST nutmeg. Juicy and
rich, with a confident,
12 Years & Under warming finish.
Ned Wanted Series
Honour 48%

104 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Grain

Best German Best Irish Best Japanese


12 Years & Under No Age Statement No Age Statement

The Westfalian Fercullen Kirin


Cask Tw46 52.1% Distillery Select 49% Single Grain 46%

Beautifully rich nose with rum raisin, Grain forward on the Notes of apricot, cereal, and oak on
cooked plums and caramelised apples. nose. Bright palate with the aroma and palate,
The palate has a dry fruity ester notes. Vanilla with a well-defined malty
woodiness with wafer cheesecake and lots of character. A clean whisky
and grassy notes. Carries floral notes come through, with good balance between
some heat from the ABV. too. Warm finish with soft the fruit and wood notes.
Short, warm, peppery fruits. Good maturity
finish with returning and balance.
plum notes. Rich
and flavourful
for a grain.

Best Scottish Best South African


No Age Statement No Age Statement

Loch Lomond Bains


Single Grain 46% Single Grain 40%

A lot of character and wisdom Mellow, smooth and


here for a grain whisky. balanced. A classic,
It has a nice balance of candied nose. A soft,
softness, spice, fruit, and
vanilla. Very enjoyable.
interesting and incredibly
well-balanced dram.
A lot of character
SHORTLIST
and wisdom here for
13 to 20 Years a grain whisky
Whisky of Voodoo
Coven of Resurrection Loch Lomond
Batch #1 57.8% Best Scottish Grain
21 Years & Over
Invergordon 21
Years Old 46%

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 105


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Cask Single Grain±6SRQVRUHGE\5HÀH[/DEHO / Wheat

Best Irish
12 Years & Under

WORLD’S BEST Celtic Cask


SINGLE CASK SINGLE GRAIN Daichead A Dó (42) 57.2%

Very active wood, with loads of rich spice


Best Scottish bursting out of the glass.
21 Years & Over Banana bread, caramel
and apricots. Big bold
Rare Auld flavour of coconut ice and
Invergordon 32 Years Old 48.1% barley sugar, with raisins
and chocolate wafers.
Tar and hits of toffee on the nose. On the palate, more tar and Really unctuous and
packed with flavour.
toffee with oak, fudge, and an oily character which continues into
WKHVOLJKWO\VSLF\ÀQLVK$EROGZKLVN\ZLWKQLFHVZHHWQHVV

SHORTLIST
13 to 20 Years
Duncan Taylor
Rare Old Girvan Grain 54.1%

WORLD’S BEST
WHEAT
Best American
12 Years & Under

Lone Elm
4 Years Old Single Barrel 60%

Begins with maple syrup, caramel, and berries. The palate is rich and heavy with cherries and
PRODVVHVLQWRDVWHGRDN%ROGPXVKURRPVR\VDXFHDQGGDUNFKRFRODWH9HU\PRXWKÀOOLQJ

106 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Flavoured

WORLD’S BEST
FLAVOURED
Best Irish
Tullamore D.E.W.
Honey 35%

Notes of caramel, cinnamon, anise and raspberry on the nose. Mouth coating. The palate
LVOHGE\KRQH\QRWHVZLWKVRPHFLQQDPRQ$VZHHWÀQLVKZLWKDOLWWOHZDUPLQJDOFRKRO

Best American Best Canadian


Sons of Liberty Black Velvet
Spirits Co. Toasted Caramel 35%

&R̆HH)ODYRUHG Thick and creamy. The


Whiskey 35% caramel notes are creamy
and milky, and the whisky
Aromas of coffee – nitro backbone carries those
cold brew. The palate is
like a cold brew coffee
flavours well. Great texture.
Very active wood,
with a shot of whisky. An with loads of rich spice
excellent representation
of the category. bursting out of the glass
Celtic Cask
Best Irish Single Cask Single Grain

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 107


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Pot Still

WORLD’S BEST
POT STILL
Best Canadian
No Age Statement

Macaloney's Island Distillery


Kildara Signature Selection 58%

Big, bold nose of treacle and spice. The palate is drying, with butterscotch,
apple, stewed grain, sherried fruit accents, and complex wood notes.
Finish is spicy, dry, and long. Powerful yet drinkable. Impressive.

Best American Best Irish


12 Years & Under 13 to 20 Years

Talnua Redbreast
Virgin White Oak Cask 43% 15 Years Old 46%

Ripe red apples and vanilla A rich and intense aroma of apricot, plum,
ÁRZHURQWKHQRVH7KHQ baking spices and brown sugar. Well-
vanilla and cinnamon on balanced palate with plum
Rich, creamy, mouth the palate with a medium
YLVFRVLW\0HGLXPVSLF\ÀQLVK
pie, milk chocolate, bitter
almond, caramelised sugar,
¿OOLQJDQGFRPSOH[ with notes of cinnamon,
clove, and nutmeg.
cinnamon, and just a touch
of green apple. Rich, creamy,
A very enjoyable whisky mouth filling, and complex.
A very enjoyable whisky.
Redbreast
SHORTLIST
Best Irish Pot Still
12 Years & Under
Redbreast
12 Years Old 40%
21 Years & Over
Redbreast
27 Years Old 54.6%
No Age Statement
Redbreast
Lustau 46%

108 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Rye

WORLD’S BEST
RYE
Best Dutch
No Age Statement

Millstone
100 Rye 50%

%ULJKWQRVHZLWKJORULRXVÁRUDOU\HSRSFRUQDQGOLTXRULFH3DODWHLVOHGE\U\HDQGZRRGVSLFHV
with some green banana. Oily, spicy and sweet with lots of complexity, but really easy drinking.

Best American Best Australian Best Canadian


13 to 20 Years No Age Statement 12 Years & Under

Sazerac Archie Rose Lot 40


18 Years Old 45% Distilling Co. Dark Oak 48%

Big bright nose of tropical Single Paddock Whisky Bread dough, mint, crackers,
fruit, caramel, burnt sugar, Harvest 2018 61.6% and apple on the nose. The
and vanilla extract. Palate is palate is warm with spice,
soft and creamy with plum Soft plum and peach on roasted nuts, some fruity
pudding, baking spices, the nose with caramel, notes, and heat from
and vanilla cream. Great well-incorporated grain, cinnamon and pepper.
complexity, very well tobacco and soft leather. Drying, spicy finish.
EDODQFHG/RQJÀQLVK Palate has great Nice complexity.
of sweet and spice. sweetness with
Beautiful whiskey. beauitful grain SHORTLIST
notes, honey, No Age Statement
SHORTLIST dark chocolate, Alberta Premium
12 Years & Under OLTXRULFHDQG Cask Strength 63.5%
Laws Whiskey House perfumed violet
Bottled in Bond San florals. Very
Luis Valley Rye 50% creamy.
No Age Statement
Redemption
Rye 46%

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 109


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Rye

Best Danish Best Finnish Best German


No Age Statement No Age Statement 12 Years & Under

Stauning Kyrö The Westfalian


El Clásico Rye 45.7% Wood Smoke Malt Rye 47.2% Cask Tw127 54.8%

Very approachable nose with blueberry Aromas of calf leather with hints of stone Golden syrup, summer fruits and light
pancakes and honey. fruit, cocoa and tobacco. spice on the nose with balsa wood and
Palate has notes of More leather and tobacco fresh mint. Creamy, full-
pomelo, orange-infused on the palate with caramel, bodied palate with notes
dark chocolate, a hint chocolate, orange, and of butterscotch, vanilla,
of clove and slight funk. VOLJKWEDUEHTXHVDXFH caramel, banana-fudge
Rich finish with fortified before a long finish with ice cream sundae, and
wine notes. Beautiful waves of gentle cigar dates. Complex, flavourful
texture. Complex, smoke and final and incredibly well
but not overdone. hints of honey. Very balanced with
smooth and creamy. the ABV well
integrated.

Best Spanish
12 Years & Under

Siderit
PX Cask Rye 43.7%

Well-balanced nose with


great complexity. Rancio
and new-oak aromas
&RPSOH[ÀDYRXUIXODQGLQFUHGLEO\ alongside florals and
orange. Sweet entrance
well balanced with the ABV to the palate with
vanilla and toffee. Some
well integrated herbaceous notes and
aniseed. Long finish
The Westfalian with distinct tannins.
Nicely rounded.
Best German Rye

110 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Cask Single Rye

WORLD’S BEST
SINGLE CASK SINGLE RYE
Best Danish
12 Years & Under

Stauning
Rye Maple Syrup Single Cask No. 517 57.8%

Lovely sherry notes on the nose. Nutty aroma of rye malt with earthy, woody notes
and a little grass. Palate starts with rye malt, becoming spicier with warm
JLQJHU'U\ÀQLVKZLWKUDLVLQVDQGFXUUDQWVUHPLQLFHQWRI&KULVWPDVSXGGLQJ
$VWURQJVSLULWEXWLWLVZHOOEDODQFHGZLWKWKHÁDYRXUVIURPDJHLQJ

Best American Best Dutch


12 Years & Under 12 Years & Under

Smooth Ambler The Stillery


Old Scout Rye Rye Whisky
Single Barrel 57% Single Cask 48%
Nose of ripe tropical fruit, Earthy, woody nose with the
roasted nuts, burnt sugar,
and pie crust. Palate is
nutty aroma of rye malt and
a little grass. Palate starts A strong spirit, but it is
drying. White fruit, pepper,
vanilla and chocolate.
with rye malt, becoming
spicy (warm ginger). With well balanced with the
Balanced with complexity.
Finish is medium, fruit
water, toffee notes
develop and the spice
ÀDYRXUVIURPDJHLQJ
forward with some heat. is more coriander
with a woody Stauning
character. Dry, slightly World's Best Single Cask Single Rye
bittersweet finish.

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 111


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
New Make & Young Spirit

WORLD’S BEST
NEW MAKE & YOUNG SPIRIT
Best Japanese
New Make

Niigata Kameda
New Pot Peated 60%

Pleasantly smoky, with a very good peaty character on the aroma and
palate. Well balanced, with great potential for the future.

SHORTLIST
Young Spirit
Matsui The Matsui Sakura Cask 43%

Best American Best Australian Best Canadian


New Make New Make New Make

291 Colorado Eden Anohka


Whiskey New Make Spirit 60% Heavily Peated
White Dog 50.8% Soft berries on the nose with some pear. Single Malt 63.5%
Rich palate with strong,
The nose is reminiscent of a Leather, smoke, and tobacco
sweet blackcurrant
distillery, nail varnish remover, on the nose. Oily and
and some peppery
and tons of sweet corn. The full-bodied palate. Great
spice. Smooth with
palate shows more sweetness sweetness up front with
a thick mouthfeel.
along with citrus and ripe fruit jam, red berries
eucalyptus. An amazing and spice. Well-integrated
PRXWKIHHO7KHÀQLVKLV alcohol heat. Rounded,
beautiful with a touch balanced, and full
of cinnamon spice. of character.

SHORTLIST
Young Spirit
Ancient Grains
Quarter Cask 45%

112 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
New Make & Young Spirit

Best Danish Best Irish Best Italian


New Make New Make New Make

Thy Whisky Clonakilty Il Signor Camillo


New Make Bøg 63.5% Pot Still Mashbill 63.5% Moonshine Italiano Dei
Arbroath smokies on the Sake and fermented rice Monti Liguri 40%
nose. On the palate there is a wine, baked potato,
Hazelnuts, apricots
note of smoke, but not peat and toasted cornflake.
and floral notes on
smoke. Wheat, paprika, fruits, Blanched green beans.
the nose. Clean palate
yeasty notes, and crystal malt The palate leans towards
with hazelnuts and
sweetness. A nice spirit. toasted rice milk, fresh
biscuit. Warming finish
almonds and bitter
with some nuts and a
cacao. Puffed and
lingering sweetness.
candied rice. Dry
with a light toasted
spice. A very pleasing
new make that is
delightfully peculiar.

Best Scottish Best Swedish


New Make New Make

Holyrood X Pilot Mackmyra


NMS 11 – Pilot White 1HZ0DNH([WUD3HDWHG62%
Stout Recipe 60% Very husky aroma with cereals, parma
violets, and barnyard
Floral aromatic nose with notes. A little sweetness
some low malty biscuits
and slight spice. Light
comes through on the
palate, like sour-flavoured
Well balanced, with
palate with biscuity malt,
almond, orange, and earthy
sweets. Creamy finish, with
a slight astringent note.
great potential
tones. A lovely hint of
peat. Well balanced
for the future
with a good texture.
Niigata Kameda
World's Best New Make & Young Spirit

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 113


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Blended – Sponsored by Blue Box Design

WORLD’S BEST
BLENDED
Best American
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Breckenridge
High Proof Bourbon Whiskey 52.5%

The nose has notes of kerosene and sawdust. A medium-bodied palate with notes of
VKHUU\DQGRDN7KHÀQLVKLVPHGLXPZLWKEXWWHUVFRWFKDQGKDVDOLQJHULQJZDUPWK

Best German Best International Best Japanese


1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

St. Kilian Saburomaru Kirin


Terence Hill – Whisky2022 The Sun 48% Fuji 43%
The Hero 43% $EDODQFHGQRVHZLWKPDOW 0LOGQRVHZLWKQRWHVRIJUDSHIUXLW
EUXLVHGDSSOHVERQILUH DQGEDUOH\$JHQWOHSDODWH
3DOHJROGFRORXU HPEHUVDQGVWUXFNPDWFK ZKLFKFRQYH\VLWVOD\HUVRI
)UXLWIRUZDUGQRVH7KH The palate has notes of IODYRXUVORZO\1LFHZRRG
SDODWHKDVJRRGVSLF\ DSULFRWYDQLOODUHGIUXLWV FKDUDFWHU:HOOEDODQFHG
QRWHVVRPHPHGLFLQDO DQGJULOOHGJDPPRQZLWK OLJKWDQGHDV\WRGULQN
KLQWVDQGSOHDVLQJ LQWHQVLI\LQJVPRNHDQG
sweetness. Complex. SULFNOLQJVSLFH)LQLVKLV
ORQJDQGVPRRWK

114:KLVN\0DJD]LQH_,VVXH
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Blended – Sponsored by Blue Box Design

Best Irish Best Scottish


<HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU

Red Locks Dewar’s


Blended Straight French Smooth 
Irish Whiskey  5LFKVKHUULHGDURPDZLWK
FDUDPHOYDQLOODDQGD
)ULHQGO\QRVHKHUEDFHRXV little smoke. Palate starts
and floral with barley VZHHWWKHQGHYHORSVD
QRWHVDQGDJRRGWRXFKRI VSLF\FKDUDFWHU*LQJHU
VZHHWQHVV/LJKWSDODWHZLWK VRPHQXWWLQHVVDQGFLWUXV
VKHUULHGIUXLWFDNHQRWHV DFFHQWV:HOOLQWHJUDWHG
YDQLOODVDQGDOZRRGDQG DQGFRPSOH[
VOLJKWHDUWKLQHVV1LFH
VSLFHLQWKHILQLVK SHORTLIST
&RPSOH[EDODQFHG
DQGDSSURDFKDEOH²D WR<HDUV
VWXQQLQJFRQWHPSRUDU\ Old Parr 18 Years
,ULVKVW\OHZKLVNH\ Old 40%
<HDUV 2YHU
SHORTLIST Dewar’s Double Double
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 21 Years Old 46%
The Whistler Dark 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Symphony 43.1% Compass Box Glasgow
Blend 43%

Best South African Best Thai


1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Three Ships Blend 285


Premium Select 43% Signature 35%

)UXLWIRUZDUGDURPDZLWKULSHPHORQ 0HDW\QRVHZLWKUDLVLQVJUHHQ
RUDQJHEDQDQDDSSOH DSSOHYDQLOODDQGSXQJHQW
plum and raspberry. RUDQJHRLO3DODWHLVVRIWDQG
9DQLOODFLQQDPRQDQGD toffee forward with some
hint of anise. Palate has FLWUXVJUHHQDSSOHDQGPLON
IUXLW\VZHHWQHVVZRRG FKRFRODWH:HOOLQWHJUDWHG
QRWHVDQGDOLWWOHPRUH JUDLQFKDUDFWHU0HGLXP
DQLVH6KRUWILQLVKZLWK finish with some peaty
VRPHFRPSOH[LW\ QRWHVDWWKHHQG$OLJKW
but pleasant sipper with
HYROYLQJFRPSOH[LW\

,VVXH_:KLVN\0DJD]LQH115
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Blended Malt – Sponsored by Kapag

WORLD’S BEST
BLENDED MALT
Best Japanese
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Taketsuru
Pure Malt 43%

$URPDVRIRUDQJHVSLFHDQGRDN$QLFHO\VWUXFWXUHGSDODWHZLWKDJRRGEDODQFHRI
IUXLW\HVWHUVYDQLOODDQGPLQW)UHVKFLWUXVVR\VDXFHSHSSHUDQGFUDFNHU7DQQLQV
RQWKHÀQLVK$QH[FHOOHQWEOHQGHGPDOWZHOOEDODQFHGDQGGHOLFLRXV

Best American Best Australian Best French


1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Breckenridge Lark Alfred Giraud


Two Clans  Symphony No. 1  Voyage 48%

1RVHRIVPRNHEURZQVXJDU 0L[HGVSLFHRQWKHQRVHZLWKWRIIHHSOXP $URPDVRIJLQJHUKD]HOQXWFDQGLHG


FKRFRODWHDQGYDQLOOD7KH MDPSOHDVDQWO\VRXUDSSOHDQGDKLQWRI RUDQJHWRIIHHDQGWREDFFR
SDODWHKDVOLJKWVPRN\QRWHV PDU]LSDQ$OPRQGVDQGVZHHWIXGJHRQWKH 7KHSDODWHKDVDSSOHV
PDOWEURZQVXJDUVZHHWQHVV SDODWHZLWKDSULFRWMDP FKHUULHVDQGKRQH\
and ripe white fruit. Medium- OHDWKHUDQGWREDFFR$ with soft leather and
ORQJÀQLVKZLWKVPRNHIUXLW ORQJZRRG\ILQLVKZLWK PLONFKRFRODWH7KHILQLVK
DQGVSLFH:HOOEDODQFHG HDUWK\DOPRQGVSLFHDQG FDUULHVJLQJHUVSLFH
ZLWKQLFHFRPSOH[LW\ YDQLOODQRWHV
An easy drinker.

116:KLVN\0DJD]LQH_,VVXH
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
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Best German Best International


1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Slyrs Nikka
Malt  Session 43%

0LQHUDOLW\DQGJUDVVLQHVVRQWKHQRVH &KDON\DQGVOLJKWPLQHUDODURPDVDWILUVW
VLPLODUWRPH]FDO&LWUXV followed by sweet notes of
QRWHVRIRUDQJHRQWKH EDQDQDDQGWURSLFDOIUXLW
SDODWHZLWKFHUHDOV 6ZHHWQHVVDQGDVOLJKW
VSLFHVDQGZHOO funk on the full-bodied
EDODQFHGRDNQRWHV SDODWHZLWKWREDFFRDQG
0RXWKFRDWLQJWH[WXUH$ OLJKWRDNFKDUDFWHU
well-distilled whisky.

Best Irish Best Scottish


1R$JH6WDWHPHQW <HDUV 2YHU

The Whistler Single & Single


The Good, The Bad and Cambridge Circus, 32 Years
The Smoky 48% Old Oloroso Sherry 47.3%
6ZHHWFLWUXVQRWHVRI $URPDVRISHDUULSHJUHHQ
OHPRQDQGRUDQJHRQWKH DSSOHOLPHIUXLWSDVWLOOHV
aroma and palate with DQGVWUDZEHUU\IURPDJH
FDUDPHOERLOHGVZHHWV IUDLVZLWKYDQLOODFLQQDPRQ
and perfumed florals. DQGODYHQGHU:KLWHSHSSHU
and dry wood on the palate
ZLWKRUDQJHFLWUXVRLOV
URVHPDU\GHVLFFDWHG
FRFRQXWDWRXFK
RIIXQNDQGVRPH
QXWWLQHVV/RQJ
ILQLVKZLWKUDQFLR
DQGPDOWFDNHV

SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Ardgowan
Clydebuilt
Sailmaker 48%

,VVXH_:KLVN\0DJD]LQH117
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Blended Limited Release

WORLD’S BEST
BLENDED LIMITED RELEASE
Best Japanese
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Ichiro's Malt & Grain


Blended Japanese Whisky 2023 48%

*RUJHRXVÁRUDOQRVHZLWKDURPDVRIDPDUHWWRRUFKDUGIUXLWVZRRGDQGDWRXFKRIVROYHQW2Q
WKHSDODWHWKHUHLVSHDUDSULFRWDQGRDNZLWKKLQWVRIIRUWLÀHGZLQHDQGVPRNH([FHOOHQWÀQLVK

Best American Best Irish Best Scottish


1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Breckenridge Fercullen Woven


Collectors Art Series 48% Estate Series – The Italian Experience N.10 52.4%

5LSHIUXLWSHSSHUFDUDPHODQGZDUPLQJ Gardens 46% 6PRN\IUXLW\EDUEHTXHVDXFHQRVHZLWK


VSLFHVRQWKHQRVH3DODWHKDVDQLFH FDUDPHOFRFRDWRQNDEHDQDQGRUDQJH
6XEWOHQRVHZLWKSHQFLO
PRXWKIHHOZLWKGDUN 3DODWHLVSHDW\VSLF\DQGPRXWKFRDWLQJ
VKDYLQJVJHQWOHIORUDOV
IUXLWVSLFHDQGEURZQ 0RUHEDUEHTXHVDXFHZLWK
EODFNFXUUDQWVDQGWRDVW
VXJDUQRWHV%DODQFHG ZDYHVRIKHDWKHU\VPRNH
with honey. Palate is
ZLWKFRPSOH[LW\)LQLVK OHDWKHU\EDFRQFKHUU\DQG
FUHDP\DQGEDODQFHG
LVPHGLXPWRORQJDQG ZHOOLQWHJUDWHGZRRG
ZLWKWRIIHHDSSOH
VKRZVIUXLWDQGVSLFH Beautiful sweet finish.
UDLVLQVYDQLOODVSLFH
SHORTLIST DQGKLQWVRIFLWUXV SHORTLIST
IXLWV6RPHSOHDVLQJ
<HDUV 8QGHU tannins and wood <HDUV 2YHU
Iron Fish 1887 notes. Medium finish. Hankey Bannister
Grand Rye 46% 21 Years Old
SHORTLIST Partners' Reserve
– Batch 3 40%
<HDUV 8QGHU
Clan Colla 11
Years Old 46%

118:KLVN\0DJD]LQH_,VVXH
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Cask Single Malt – Sponsored by UPS

WORLD’S BEST
SINGLE CASK SINGLE MALT
Best Scotch Campbeltown
WR<HDUV

Glen Scotia
First Fill Bourbon Cask No. 372 56.4%

,QWHQVHDQGZHOOEDODQFHGDURPDZLWKSHDUJUDSHEDNLQJVSLFHVFRFRQXWDQGWRIIHH+LQWV
RIFRIIHHDQGZRRGVPRNH6PRRWKHQWUDQFHWRWKHSDODWHZLWKGULHGIUXLWDQGFKRFRODWH
IROORZHGE\ÀJVWRIIHHVDXFHDQGFUqPHEU€OpH/RQJÀQLVKZLWKEDODQFHGRDN

SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
Glen Scotia
First Fill PX Sherry Cask No. 21/943-10 56.8%
<HDUV 2YHU
Glen Scotia
5HÀOO$PHULFDQ2DN+RJVKHDG&DVN1R52.4%

Best American Best Australian


<HDUV 8QGHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Hogback Iniquity
The Wallace Collection  Den's Dram #57 56.8%

6PRN\EDUEHTXHRQWKH $URPDVRIFORWWHGFUHDPDQGUDVSEHUU\
QRVH,WWKHQGHYHORSVLQWRD ULSSOH%DODQFHGQRWHVRISHDFK
VPRN\EDUEHTXHSLWRQWKH DQGSHDWRQWKHSDODWHZLWK
SDODWHDORQJVLGHFDUDPHO FRIIHHFDUDPHOGRXJKQXW
DQGOHDWKHU/RQJÀQLVK UDLVLQVDQGVZHHWFRFRD
(DUWK\PXVW\DQGJUDVV\ )XQN\EXWTXLWHPRUHLVK

SHORTLIST SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW <HDUV 8QGHU
Courage & Conviction Hillwood
Cuvée Single Sherry Cask 60.6%
Cask 59.2% WR<HDUV
Sullivans Cove
$PHULFDQ2DNQG
)LOO7G47.5%
<HDUV 2YHU
Sullivans Cove
21 Years Old 'Old &
5DUH $PHULFDQ2DN([
%RXUERQ +K 48.3%

,VVXH_:KLVN\0DJD]LQH119
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Cask Single Malt – Sponsored by UPS

Best Belgian Best Canadian Best Chinese


12 Years & Under No Age Statement No Age Statement

Wild Weasel Macaloney's Daiking


Single Cask Single Malt 46% Island Distillery Bourbon Single Cask
Watermelon, some The Peat Project: Strength – "Forest Green"
blackcurrant and a hint of Single Portuguese 59.6%
vanilla on the nose. Palate
has notes of toffee with Red Wine Barrique with A soft, oily, youthful nose
mead, dried spices and pine
nuts. Good finish with grassy
Washington with hints of putty, fruit and
astringent spice. Cereal,
and citrus notes coming Peat 58% citrus, strawberry jam and
through. Nice balance. hints of vanilla on the
A little funk on the nose palate. Water brings out
SHORTLIST with tropical fruits and more savoury notes.
No Age Statement dry oak. Spicy and The alcohol is fairly well
Belgian Owl oaky palate, slightly contained. Raw barley
Intense 73.1% drying. Peat finish with a touch
smoke, mango, of confected fruit.
marmalade, toffee,
breadcrumbs,
and tea cake.
Long, warming,
smoky finish with
some fruit.

Best Danish Best Dutch Best English


No Age Statement 13 to 20 Years No Age Statement

Stauning Millstone Cotswolds


Heather Virgin Single Cask Special No. 21 Pedro Platinum Jubilee
No. 3411 61.1% Ximénez Cask 1952 Cask 55.4%
Intense nose with wood, 20 Years Old 51.2% Lemon, stone fruits, coconut
tar, astringent green fruit, and raisins on the nose.
Rather savoury on the
bromine, and some salinity. The palate is bold with
nose and palate with
The palate follows the nose lemon, creamy custard,
Marmite (yeast extract),
with more green fruit, tar, dark chocolate, maple,
mushroom, soy sauce,
toffee sauce, and peach, and pumpkin
and some meaty notes,
chargrilled herbal pie. Pleasant finish.
accompanied by a
and vegetal notes.
sweetness from
Hints of chocolate and
toffee apple.
vanilla. Lengthy finish
with lingering smoked
meat, heather and tar.

SHORTLIST
12 Years & Under
Thy Whisky
No. 19 PX 59.1%

120 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Cask Single Malt – Sponsored by UPS

Best German Best Irish Best Japanese


<HDUV 8QGHU WR<HDUV 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

Elsburn Dunville’s Mars


Single Sherry Octave PX 20 Years Old Cask Komagatake Yakushima
V13-67 57.2% Strength Cask No. 1644 55% Aging Cask No. 2026 53%
Robust and meaty with &DUDPHOURXQGHGPDOW )UHVKO\EUHZHG&H\ORQ
herbal barley and honey. DQGFODVVLFVKHUU\QRWHV WHDHVWHU\IUXLWDQGZHOO
+LQWVRIFRIIHHPDOWDQG with sultanas on the nose. LQWHJUDWHGZRRGQRWHV*RRG
YDQLOODWKHQVRPHGULHG :RRG\FKDUMRLQVWKH sherry notes on the palate.
IUXLWDQGVSLFHQRWHV7KH &KULVWPDVSXGGLQJQRWHV
palate is full and meaty RQWKHSDODWH$JRRG SHORTLIST
ZLWKURDVWFRIIHH OHQJWKRQWKHILQLVK <HDUV 8QGHU
PDOWGDUNGULHG *RRGFRPSOH[LW\ Saburomaru
IUXLWDQGFKRFRODWH 2019 The Founder 61%
OLNHWDQQLQV2LO\ SHORTLIST
YDQLOODVSLFHDQG <HDUV 8QGHU
VOLJKWO\ELWWHULQJ Dunville’s
oak on the middle. PX 12 Years Old Cask
/LQJHULQJILQLVKZLWK Strength 56.2%
WUHDFOHWRIIHH
<HDUV 2YHU
Clonakilty
31 Years Old 43%

Best Scotch Highlands Best Scotch Islay Best Scotch Speyside


<HDUV 2YHU <HDUV 2YHU <HDUV 2YHU

Secret Series Vintage Series Olympian Series


30 Years Old 47.5% Bruichladdich Port Hades 

0DOWELVFXLWOHPRQDQG Charlotte Rum $URPDVRIPDUVKPDOORZSHDU


heather honey on the nose Barrel 48.7% GURSV%UD]LOQXWVDQGDOPRQGV
ZLWKJRRGVKHUU\QRWHV 3DODWHEULQJVWRIIHHDSSOHDQG
3HDFKEORVVRPRQWKHSDODWH Very smooth peat and F\VWDOOLVHGSLQHDSSOH/LQJHULQJ
LQLWLDOO\WKHQWRIIHHDQG OLJKWIORUDOQRWHVRQWKH ILQLVK6WXQQLQJGUDP
HDUWK\QRWHVFRPHWKURXJK QRVH7KHSDODWHKDVORYHO\
with toast and hints of QRWHVRIFKDUOHDGLQJWR SHORTLIST
ZLQH/RYHO\FRPSOH[ DJHQWOHILQLVK$ZHOO 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
finish with sweetness LQWHJUDWHGZKLVN\ Stalla Dhu
DQGDJLQJHUOLNHKHDW *OHQURWKHV/DWH+RXU3RUW
SHORTLIST Finish Cask Strength 64.2%
SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU
<HDUV 8QGHU DS Tayman The Glenlivet
Mythical Beasts Caol Ila Tulip 12 Years Old Rum &
11 Years Old (GLWLRQ46% Bourbon Cask – Taiwan
$UGODLU53.5% ([FOXVLYH43%
WR<HDUV WR<HDUV
Loch Lomond Stalla Dhu
2ORURVR+RJVKHDG Linkwood Reserve
&DVN53.1% Cask Strength 57.3%

,VVXH_:KLVN\0DJD]LQH121
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Cask Single Malt – Sponsored by UPS / Small Batch Single Malt

Best Swedish Best Taiwanese


<HDUV 8QGHU 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW

High Coast Kavalan


Distillery Exclusive Solist Port Single Cask
No. 8  Strength 
,QLWLDODURPDLVSLQH\ZLWK 6WHZHGSOXPVYDUQLVKDQG
UHGSHDQXWVNLQVZRRG VSLFHVRQWKHQRVH7KH
YDUQLVKVSRQJHFDNHDQG palate is buttery with notes
marmalade. Palate is more RIWRDVWHGRDNZDOQXWORDI
XPDPLDQGHDUWK\ZLWK GDUNVXJDURUDQJH]HVW
EODFNWUHDFOHEURZQVXJDU WREDFFRDQGFKRFRODWH
DQGVWURQJEODFNWHD
Dry tannins to finish. SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
Omar
Cask Strength
Virgin Oak 57.2%

WORLD’S BEST
SMALL BATCH SINGLE MALT
Best Irish
WR<HDUV

J.J. Corry
The Flintlock No. 3 46%

$FRPSOH[QRVHZLWKEDODQFHGRDNRUFKDUGIUXLWQHFWDULQHPDOWDQGVRPHOHDWKHU7KHSDODWH
VWDUWVGU\DQGZDUPLQJWKHQFRPHEDNLQJVSLFHVZLWKVWUXFWXUHGZRRGMXLF\UHGIUXLWFKRFRODWH
DQGFRIIHH/HPRQDOPRQGVQXWPHJDQGFLQQDPRQOLQJHURQWKHPHGLXPÀQLVK$SOHDVLQJGURS

SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
Waterford Micro Cuvée Feuille Morte 50%

122:KLVN\0DJD]LQH_,VVXH
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Small Batch Single Malt

Best American Best Australian Best Canadian


13 to 20 Years No Age Statement No Age Statement

The Notch Amber Lane Glen Saanich


Nantucket Island Sleigh Bells 2022 Wine Cask Finished 45%

15 Years Old 48% PX Cask 58% Notes of maple on the nose with some
brioche toast and bold fruit cake notes.
This has a unique taste of blue raspberry Oak aromas lead the nose, Palate is drier, delicate and malty with
popsicle. Oaky and with some fruit notes. Palate stewed fruits, molasses,
complex, wonderfully has burnt fruits, orange zest, baking spices, oak, and
proofed, and brings waterlemon cordial, cloves a hint of rum. Beautiful
both interest and and rich oak. Long finish, mouthfeel. Great malt
excitement to the table. ending in sweet caramel. structure through the finish.
Complex and delicious.
SHORTLIST SHORTLIST
12 Years & Under SHORTLIST
12 Years & Under
Town Branch 12 Years & Under Grainhenge Elevator
Small Batch Single Coastal Stone Row 58.2%
Malt 43.5% Element Series –
Shiraz Cask 46%

Best Danish Best English Best German


12 Years & Under 12 Years & Under No Age Statement

Thy Whisky The English St. Kilian


Society Cask Whisky Co. Judas Priest – Angel of
No. 230 59.7% 2010 Vintage Peated 46% Retribution 47%
A nicely balanced whisky Well-balanced, ester- Meaty and fruity nose,
with sweetness alongside rich spirit, with some echoed by the palate.
tobacco spice and a nice smokiness and faint Complex finish of a little
herbaceousness that citrus. It's also rich in smoke and sweetness.
creates complexity. maltiness and becomes
very oily with a few SHORTLIST
drops of water. Really 12 Years & Under
delicious and very Störtebeker
well integrated. Cognac Edition
2022 52%

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 123


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Small Batch Single Malt

Best Japanese Best Israeli Best New Zealand


<HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU <HDUV 8QGHU

Mars M&H The Cardrona


Komagatake Apex Orange Otago Pinot Release 52%
9 Years Old  Wine Cask 57% White wine on the nose with some
PHGLFLQDODVWULQJHQF\
:HOOEDODQFHGDURPDDQG 6RPHVZHHWQRWHVRQ DQGJUDSHQRWHV3DODWH
IODYRXU)UXLW\DQGVSLF\RQ WKHQRVH2QWKHSDODWH follows the aroma.
WKHQRVH&KRFRODWHFDNH there are notes of burnt
strawberry and whipped KD\VZHHWFKDUFRDORDN
FUHDPRQWKHSDODWH DQGEXWWHUVFRWFK
ZLWKRDNVOLJKWVKHUU\
and the sweetness
RIEDUOH\$FODVVLF
Japanese malt.

SHORTLIST
1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
Mars Tsunuki 6th
$QQLYHUVDU\52%

Best Swiss Best Scotch Islay Best Scotch Speyside


1R$JH6WDWHPHQW WR<HDUV <HDUV 8QGHU

Säntis Malt Ardbeg Spey


Rainbow Series No.1 Traigh Bhan 19 Years Old Trutina
"Freedom" 52.4% Batch No. 4 46.2% 10 Years Old 46%

6ZHHWDURPDZLWKUHG 5LFKVPRNLQHVVRQWKHQRVH /LJKWIORUDOVPLOGRDWVDQGKLQWV


EHUULHVDQGGHOLFDWHVSLFH ZLWKIUHVKKLQWVRIYDQLOOD of raisin on the nose. A well-
8QFWXRXVSDODWHZLWK FUHDP\FXVWDUGDQGRUFKDUG URXQGHGSDODWHZLWKEDODQFHG
QRWHVRIFLQQDPRQFHGDU IUXLWV2QWKHSDODWHWKHUH DVSHFWVRIIUXLWRDNDQGPDOW
DQG0DGHLUDZLQH)UXLW\ LVFROGDVKPRUHYDQLOOD /RQJILQLVK:HOOLQWHJUDWHG
IORUDOQRWHVLQFOXGLQJ IUHVKRUFKDUGIUXLWVGDUN
plum and a hint of FKRFRODWHDQGLRGLQH SHORTLIST
O\FKHHDQGULFK ZLWKDVOLJKWUXEEHU\ 1R$JH6WDWHPHQW
YDQLOOD$OOVHHPV note on the finish. Spey Tenne Cask Strength
YHU\EDODQFHG Batch #4 57.5%
SHORTLIST
<HDUV 8QGHU
Whisky of Voodoo
The Rusty Cauldron
Batch #1 54%

124:KLVN\0DJD]LQH_,VVXH
WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

WORLD’S BEST
SINGLE MALT
Best Israeli
No Age Statement

M&H
Elements Sherry Cask 46%

Fruity aroma of citrus zests, white peach, grape, and green apple. Sweet golden syrup on the palate
with whispers of grain and cereals. Anise, tropical fruits, vanilla, and iced tea. Pleasing weight and
PRXWKIHHO0HGLXPÀQLVKZLWKQRWHVRIDQLVHOHPRQSHHODQGVRPHWDQQLQVWRZDUGVWKHHQG

Best American Best Australian Best Belgian


No Age Statement 12 Years & Under No Age Statement

Westland Whiskey Lark Gouden Carolus


Solum Edition 1 50% Chinotto Cask II Blaasveld Broek 46%

Soul-warming aroma with Cask Strength 60% Green leaves, smoke, sweet nutty hickory,
apricot, cedar, smoke, and phenols with sweet hints on the nose.
Succulent nose with sultanas and herbs.
PHVTXLWHDQGÁRUDOV7KH Bright citrus on the palate with hops,
On the palate, pine resin and some superb
palate has a balanced cereals and oaty flapjacks.
orange zest notes. More orange on the
smokiness with agave, Short but fresh finish.
finish, which lingers long.
FHGDUDQGÁRUDOQRWHV
A long, pleasant,
SHORTLIST
VPRN\ÀQLVK$ZHOO
balanced whiskey. No Age Statement
Morris Whisky
SHORTLIST Muscat
Barrel 48%
12 Years & Under
Lost Lantern Gentle 13 to 20 Years Old
Giant 57.6% Hellyers Road 15
Years Old Slightly
Peated 46.2%

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 125


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best Brazilian Best Canadian Best Chinese


No Age Statement No Age Statement No Age Statement

Lamas Macaloney's Island Daiking


Nimbus Robustus 54% Distillery Golden Brand 43%

Perfumed floral nose with patchouli and Siol Dugall 46% Grassy, woody nose with
some wood smoke in the background. some warm raisin. Citrus,
Balanced nose with
Perfumed notes also on banana, dried fruits, vanilla,
polished wood, spice,
the palate, with pepper, cocoa, and brioche on
delicate fruit and
aniseed, more wood the palate. Slightly waxy.
KRQH\FRPE7KH
smoke, and very light malt. Warm, pleasing finish.
palate has notes of
caramel, cooked green
apples, cookie
dough, custard,
and smoke.
Excellent finish.
Well integrated,
delicate and
stylish.

Best Danish Best Dutch Best English


No Age Statement 12 Years & Under No Age Statement

Mosgaard Millstone Cotswolds


Palo Cortado Cask 53% Special No. 26 Peated Founder’s Choice 60.5%

New leather shoes, red Rivesaltes Cask 7URSLFDOIUXLWVDQGRDN\


berries and cereals on the 3 Years Old 46% vanilla on the nose with
nose. Warming brandy red berry jam and toffee
notes, ginger cake and A savoury, yeasty nose apples. Palate has notes
pencil shavings. Excellent with some charred oak of apple, vanilla custard,
balance between wood and pipe tobacco. Palate prunes, chocolate and
and fruit. Delightful opens with sweetness caramel, with ginger,
dry sherry finish. of strawberry jam, cloves and cinnamon.
caramel, raisin and Medium finish with
GHVHUWZLQH7KHQ chocolate and
honey, cigar box and sweet forest fruits.
light peat. Robust
malt and oak notes.
7RIIHHLQWKHILQLVK$
very good dram that
retains elegance and
drinkability despite
its complexity.

126 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best Finnish Best French Best German


12 Years & Under No Age Statement No Age Statement

Teerenpeli Le Breuil Willowburn


Kulo 7 Years Old 51% Finition Sherry Oloroso 46% Ember 45.9%

Honey, almonds and peach on the nose. Really interesting, complex nose. A ton of Mellow grains, biscuit,
:DWHUEULQJVRXWQXWWLQHVV7KHSDODWH fruit, peach, apple, and bacon, with white cereal and citrus on
has more honey and peach, with pear, wine-like notes. Lots of fruit on the palate. nose. Worn leather, wood
biscuit, raisin, Christmas Pain au chocolat, raisin, shavings, warm spice
pudding and marzipan. apple, pear, peach, and and dry sherry. Figs and
Spicy finish with oats, with a bit of smoke. dried stone fruit, honey
cinnamon and ginger. Elegant, floral and rich. and ginger. Warm tea
and rasins. A short
SHORTLIST SHORTLIST but pleasant finish
No Age Statement 12 Years & Under with good tannins.
Teerenpeli Armorik 15
Kaski 43% Years Old 2022 SHORTLIST
Edition 46% 12 Years & Under
The Westfalian
Cask Tw68 51.1%

Best Indian Best Irish Best Japanese


No Age Statement 21 Years & Over 12 Years & Under

Amrut Dunville’s Yoichi


Peated 62.8% VR 21 Years Old Palo 10 Years Old 45%

Intense, complex aroma with Cortado Sherry Malt and citrus nose.
malt, warm smoke, dried Cask Finish 53.2% Palate is light bodied with
fruit, caramel and vanilla. condensed milk, berries,
Malt and herbal notes Strawberry, papaya, mango citrus peels, malt and
on the palate with dried and melon aromas. Palate pleasant smoke. Delicious,
fruit and warm spices. has dried exotic fruits and and well balanced between
7KHDOFRKRODQGWKH chocolate. Long finish. oak and spirit character.
smoke are surprisingly
well integrated. SHORTLIST SHORTLIST
Good balance. No Age Statement
No Age Statement
Teeling Blackpitts Miyagikyo Aromatic
Peated Cask Yeast 47%
Strength 56.5%
12 Years & Under
Clonakilty 5 Years Old
Sherry Cask Finish 53%
13 to 20 Years
Dunville’s VR 20 Years
Old Oloroso Sherry
Cask Finish 54.8%

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 127


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best New Zealand Best Norwegian Best Scotch Campbeltown


No Age Statement No Age Statement No Age Statement

Thomson Whisky Bivrost Glen Scotia


South Island Peat 46% Helheim 46% Double Cask 46%

Aromas of toffee apples, Fresh, grainy nose with Deep, rich nose with rancio,
spice, leather, and a hint of berries, dried herbs baked dough and malt notes,
juniper. Leather and tobacco and citrus zests. Sweet and well-integrated oak.
translate on the palate with a pastry, lemon cream, Smooth entrance to the
light whiff of smoke. Vanilla vanilla fudge and tart palate. Dark fruit followed by
fudge and toffee. Finish citrus on the palate with oak sweetness and creamy
has spicy fresh ginger, a wood and coal smoke, notes. Pepper and a little
little more smoke, and some dried mint, smoke. Long, warming
lingering toffee apples. and gentle malt. finish. Well balanced.
Cinnamon on the
finish. Very unusual SHORTLIST
but very pleasant. 13 to 20 Years
Glen Scotia 18
Years Old 46%

Best Scotch Highlands Best Scotch Islands Best Scotch Islay


No Age Statement 12 Years & Under 21 Years & Over

Glenmorangie Tobermory Ardbeg


Signet 46% 12 Years Old 46.3% 25 Years Old 46%

Heavy fruits and spice Malt and milk chocolate nose Sweet peat on the nose with
on the nose with hints with warm spices. Palate grilled gammon, pineapple,
of charred wood. Spicy, has dried fruit, citrus, a and burnt porridge.
herbaceous palate. Light touch of peat and lovely Porridge with honey on
smoke with earthy and wood notes. Very clean and the palate alongside
peppery notes. Baked well balanced throughout. ashy notes and grilled
agave, fruit compote, gammon. Medium finish.
and nutty toffee apple. SHORTLIST A proper Islay whisky,
Long, drying finish. No Age Statement very well put together.
Arran Sherry Cask –
SHORTLIST The Bodega 55.8% SHORTLIST
12 Years & Under 13 to 20 Years No Age Statement
Loch Lomond 12 Years Highland Park 18 Laphroaig Quarter
Old Inchmurrin 46% Years Old 43% Cask 48%
13 to 20 Years 21 Years & Over 12 Years & Under
Cù Bòcan 15 Tobermory 23 Laphroaig 10
Years Old 50% Years Old 46.3% Years Old 40.1%
21 Years & Over 13 to 20 Years
The Glenturret 30 Lagavulin Islay Jazz
Years Old 42% Festival 2022 55.4%

128 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best Scotch Lowlands Best Scotch Speyside Best Slovenian


21 Years & Over 21 Years & Over 12 Years & Under

Rosebank The Glenlivet Broken Bones


31 Years Old 48.1% Archive 21 Years Old 43% Whisky 46%

Aromas of Juicy Fruit Mellow nose of baked fruit, 7URSLFDOHVWHUVRQWKHQRVHZLWKPDOW\


chewing gum, slight pencil aniseed, and perfumed biscuit notes, vanilla ice cream, clove,
sharpenings, and struck notes of heather and pear. VDZGXVWDQGKD\7KH
match. Full-bodied palate An excellent mouthfeel and palate initially has lemon
with fresh ginger, green powerful palate with rich drops and custard creams,
tea, and a hint of white fruit, notes of sherry, and then opens up to toasted
pepper. Beautiful and floral elements. Silky, oak. Oily mouthfeel, and
complex, showing and nicely complex. a medium-long finish. A
impressive dexterity. very promising drop.
SHORTLIST
No Age Statement
Glen Moray
Classic 40%
12 Years & Under
The Glenlivet 12 Years
Old Rum and Bourbon
Cask Selection 40%
13 to 20 Years
The Glenlivet 15
Years Old 40%

Best South African Best Spanish Best Swedish


12 Years & Under 13 to 20 Years No Age Statement

Three Ships Liber Mackmyra


12 Years Old Single Malt 45% Destination 48.7%
Double Wood Blend 49.6% Aromas of demerara sugar, apple, pear Yuzu, wine gums, caramel,
and sherry at first, becoming more savoury vanilla and allspice on the
Malty, buttery and creamy with soy sauce, celery nose. Earthy and grainy
aromas with dried fruit, and slight funk. Oily, notes on the palate. Rich
caramel and hints of luscious palate with and warm with Christmas
wood. Palate has warm peanut brittle and a bold cake, fruit salad, and a
smoke, ripe fruit and sweet sherry character touch of funk. Long finish.
more buttery notes. that gets drier
Rich flavours are SHORTLIST
on the finish.
very well managed Wraps up with 12 Years & Under
and the alcohol is brandied cherries. Gammelstilla
well integrated. An Surprising and Jubileum 49.5%
amazing dram. delightful.
SHORTLIST
21 Years & Over
Three Ships
21 Years Old
Millennium 51.8%

Issue 190 | Whisky Magazine 129


WORLD WHISKIES AWARDS 2023
Single Malt – Sponsored by Rankin Brothers & Sons

Best Swiss Best Taiwanese


No Age Statement No Age Statement

Seven Seals Kavalan


The Age of Leo 49.7% King Car Conductor 46%

Spicy aroma of cinnamon and coriander, Pronounced fruit nose


overlaying caramel. Palate has notes of with banana and raisin.
toffee fudge, sweet jam, almonds and Medium-bodied palate
ginger, with leather and
chewy oak. Excellent
with some fruit notes and
a hint of white wine.
5LFKÀDYRXUVDUHYHU\
mouthfeel. Soft, lingering
finish with woody notes. SHORTLIST
well managed and the alcohol
12 Years & Under is well integrated
Yushan Sherry
Cask 46% Three Ships
Best South African Single Malt

CELEBRATING THE
WORLD’S BEST WHISKIES
The World Whiskies Awards are e the global awards
selecting the very best in all internationally
ternationally recognized
styles of whiskies. The Awards select, reward and
promote the world’s best whiskieskies to consumers
and trade across the globe.

8SZMI[XLIJYPP[MRRIVWPMWXERHǻRHSYXLS[
HǻRHSYXLS[
to enter, go to worldwhiskiesawards.com
wards.com

130 Whisky Magazine | Issue 190

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