Table of Contents

1. What Is Jute?---------------------------------------------------------- 2

2. Types of Jute-----------------------------------------------------------2

3. Cultivation of Jute----------------------------------------------------3

4. Jute Processing--------------------------------------------------------4

5. Conclusion------------------------------------------------------------12

6. Questions-------------------------------------------------------------12

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 7. Reference-------------------------------------------------------------12

What Is Jute?
Jute, also known as “the golden fiber”, is a long, soft, and shiny fiber
derived from the jute plant. Inexpensive and durable, jute is second
only to cotton in terms of popularity. It’s commonly used to make
curtains, rugs, sacks, and ropes. But, did you know it’s employed to
create fashionable garments too? Bags, shoes, and fashion accessories
can all be made with jute. Jute is often combined with cotton and other
natural fibers to make the final product soft, light, and breathable.

Types Of Jute
Several kinds of jute fabrics exist. However, there are only three kinds
that are suitable enough to make fabric. These are:

1) White Jute
2) Tossa Jute
3) Mesta Jute

1. White Jute
The Malvaceae family includes the shrub species Corchorus capsular,
which is also found in the Brazilian Amazon. It’s one of the places to get
jute fiber, and its quality is supposedly higher than that of the primary
jute plant. White jute is lighter in color than other strains of this fiber,
but it is also less durable than other jutes.

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2. Tossa Jute
Corchorus olitorius, often known as tosa jute, is a traditional South
Asian fiber. In comparison to white jute, Tosa jute fiber is softer, silkier,
and more durable. This is why it’s used a lot in the packaging and textile
industries. Tossa jute acts as a great packager because it keeps things
warm, and can absorb a moderate amount of water.

3. Mesta Jute
Mesta jute comes from crossing white jute with Tossa jute. This Afro-
Asian crop is a type of natural fiber that can manufacture yarns and
fabrics. The stem or bark of the mesta plant makes fiber. Like all natural
materials, the fibre yield and quality of this type of jute depends on the
stage of harvesting.

Cultivation of Jute
To grow jute, farmers scatter the seeds on cultivated soil. When the
plants are about 15–20 cm tall, they are thinned out. About four
months after planting, harvesting begins. The plants are usually

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harvested after they flower, before the flowers go to seed. The stalks
are cut off close to the ground, tied into bundles and soaked in water
for about 20 days. This process softens the tissues and breaks the hard
[pectin] bond between the bast and [Jute hurd] (inner woody fibers)
and permits the fibers to be separated.

The fibers are then stripped from the stalks in long strands and washed
in clear, running water. Then they are hung up or spread on thatched
roofs to dry. After 2–3 days of drying, the fibers are tied into bundles.
The suitable climate for growing jute is a warm and wet climate, which
is offered by the monsoon climate during the fall season, immediately
followed by summer.

Temperatures ranging to more than 25 °C and relative humidity of

70%–90% are favorable for successful cultivation. Jute requires 160–
200 cm of rainfall yearly with extra needed during the sowing period.
River basins, alluvial or loamy soils with a pH range between 4.8 and 5.8
are best for jute cultivation. Jute cultivation in red soils may require
high dosage of manure. Plain land or gentle slope or low land is ideal
for jute cultivation. Since the jute seeds are small in size, land should be
finely tilled, which can be done by careful ploughing.

Jute Processing
Yarns are made from long jute, i.e., jute from which the root ends have
been cut. The first requirement is that several different types of jute be
blended together so that long runs of uniform quality can be achieved
and the desirable properties of the various types of jute can be utilized
and the cost of the raw material kept to a reasonable level.

Selection of Jute

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In the selection process, raw jute bales opened to find out any defect
and to remove the defective portion by workers. Raw jute bales are of
two types i.e. 150kg weight and 180kg weight with or without top
portion cutting. The bales are assorted according to end use like
Hessian weft, Sacking warp, Sacking weft etc. After selections, jute bale
is carried to softening section.

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Softening & Lubricating
In softening process jute morass are made soft and pliable. Two
methods are used for softening; use of softening machine and use of
jute good spreader. Generally an emulsion plant with jute softener
machine is used to lubricate and soften the bark and gummy raw jute.
The emulsion plant consists of gear pump, motor, vat, jet sprayer,
nozzles, emulsion tank and the jacket. In this softening process jute
becomes soft and pliable and suitable for carding.

Conditioning/Piling
The main function of pile breaker is to break the pile and serve it to the
carding machines. The softener machine out put material carried by
pilemen through a bile to the pile place for pilling. During piling a
superficial moisture penetrates inside fiber and "Thermo fillic" action
take place which softener the hard portion of the root. After piling for
nearly 24 hours the pile breakers carry the material to the carding
machine.
Generally root cutting is done after piling near the hand feed breaker
carding machine. The root weight varies from 5 to 7% of the total
weight of jute.

Carding (Breaker & Finisher)

Carding is a combining operation where jute reeds are splitted and
extraneous matters are removed. Jute fibres are formed into ribbon
called "sliver". There are three different carding sections: (i) breaker
carding (ii) inner carding (iii) and finisher carding.

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Breaker Carding

In different jute mills the carding operations has been carried out in
two ways:
a. Hand feed breaker carding
b. Rool feed breaker carding

The material after piling more than 24 hours is used in hand feed
breaker where the material after
piling for 12 hours used in the rool
feed carding. In the Breaker carding
machine soften jute after piling is
feed by hand in suitable weight. The
machine by action with different
rollers turns out raw jute in the form
of jute sliver for finisher carding. In
this process root cutting is necessary before feeding the material to the
hand feed breaker carding machine.

Finisher Carding
Finisher carding machine make the sliver more uniform and regular in
length and weight obtained from the Breaker carding machine. Finisher
carding machine is identical to the Breaker carding machine, having
more pair of rollers, staves, pinning arrangement and speed. Nearly 4
to 12 slivers obtained from Breaker carding machine is fed on this
machine. The material thus obtained is send to drawing section.

Drawing
Drawing is a process for reducing sliver width and thickness by
simultaneously mixing 4 to 6 sliver together. There are three types of
Drawing Frame machine. In most mills 3 Drawing passages are used in
Hessian and 2 Drawing passages are used in Sacking.

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First Drawing

The slivers obtained from finisher carding machine is fed with four
slivers on to the first drawing frame machine. The first drawing frame
machines makes blending, equalising the sliver and doubling two or
more slivers, level and provide quality and color. This machines includes
delivery roller, pressing roller, retaining roller, faller screw sliders, check
spring, back spring, crimpling box etc.

Second Drawing
In second drawing, the Second Drawing Frame machine obtain the
sliver from the First drawing machine and use six slivers and deliveries
per head. The Second Drawing machine makes more uniform sliver and
reduce the jute into a suitable size for third drawing.

Third Drawing
In the third drawing, the Third Drawing frame machine uses the sliver
from second drawing. The Third Drawing machine is of high speed
makes the sliver more crimpled and suitable for spinning. The
comparison of the three drawing process:
Drawing Process Efficiency Range (%) Productivity
Mt/mc/shift
1st Drawing 55 - 73 1.75 - 2.2
2nd Drawing 64 - 74 1.62 - 1.9
3rd Drawing 67 - 70 1.31 - 1.4

Spinning
Spinning is the process for producing yarn from sliver obtained from
Third drawing. In the spinning process slivers are elongated and fibres
are twisted into yarn to impart strength. spun yarns in the spinning

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process are wound onto Bobbins. after to fill the empty bobbins with
yarn machine is stopped, replace these bobbins by empty bobbins. The
entire time is called an average cycle time. The time for replacing the
bobbins full of yarn by empty bobbins is called softing time.

Winding
Winding is a process which provides yarn as spools and cops for the
requirement of beaming and weaving operations. There are two types
of winding :

(i) Spool Winding and

(ii) Cope Winding

(i) Spool Winding

In Spool Winding yarn is produces for warp (the longitudinal yarn).
Spool winding machine consists of a number of spindles. There is wide
variation in the number of spindles per machines from one make to
another. Productivity of spool winding depends on the surface speed
of the spindle and machine utilization. Spool winding machine uses the
bobbins contain smaller length of yarn. This machine wound the yarn
into bigger packages known as 'spool'. The Spool are used in making
sheets of yarn to form warp portion used during interlacement of
weaving.
(ii) Cop Winding
Cop Winding machine obtain yarns from the spinning machines. The
spinning bobbins is placed on a suitable pin on top of the cop machine
and yarn tension is maintained by means of a small leaver. The yarn on
the bobbins are converted into hollow cylindrical package said to be

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cop. The cop is used to form Transverse thread during interlacement of
weaving. Generally, a cop winding machines consist 120 spindles.

Beaming
Beaming process is follows after spool winding. In Beaming operation
yarn from spool is wounded over a beam of proper width and correct
number of ends to weave jute cloth. To increase the quality of woven
cloth and weaving efficiency, the wrap yarns are coated with starch
paste. Adequate moisture is essential in this process.

Quality characteristic of a beam is width of beam - number of ends and

weight of stand and there is a continuous passage of yarn through
starch solution from spools to the beam. Starch solution in water
contains tamarin kernel powder (TKP), antiseptic - sodium silica
fluoride (NaSiF4) and its concentration varies with the quality of yarn.

Weaving
Weaving is a process of interlacement of two series of threads called
"wrap" and "weft" yarns to produce the fabric of desired quality. There
are separate looms for hessian and sacking in weaving section. The
Hessian looms, shuttle which contents cops (weft yarn) is manually
changed. The sacking looms are equipped with eco-loader to load a
cop automatically into the shuttle.

Dumping
Dumping is the process in which the rolled woven cloth is unrolled and
water is sprinkled on it continuously to provide desired moisture. Each
roll is generally104 yards or 95.976 meters. Damping is done manually.

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Calendaring
Calendaring is a process similar to ironing of fabric.
After damping the damped fabric passes through
pairs of heavy rollers rendering threads in fabric
flattened and improve the quality and appearance.

Lapping
Lapping is the process in which Hessian fabrics are folded into the
required size used in "Bale press" operation on the lapping machine.

Cutting
Cutting is the process where the sacking cloth is cut to the required
length for making bags for different size such as A-Twill bags and B-twill
bags of 100 kg capacity.

Hemming
In Hemming process, the raw edges of sacking cloth cut pieces are
shown by folding it with sewing machine.

Herackele Sewing
In Herackele sewing the sides of sacking cloth cut pieces are shown to
make a complete bag.

Bailing
Bags or Bale processing cloths are pressed compactly according to
buyers need.

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 Conclusion
Jute is not only a major textile fibre but also a raw material for non
traditional and value added non-textile products. Jute is used
extensively in the manufacture of different types of traditional
packaging fabrics, manufacturing Hessian, saking, carpet backing, mats,
bags, tarpaulins, ropes and twines. Recently jute fibres are used in a
wide range of diversified products: decorative fabrics, chic-saris, salwar
kamizes, soft luggage's, footwear, greeting cards, molded door panels
and other innumerable useful consumer products. Supported by
several technological developments today jute can be used to replace
expensive fibres and scare forest materials.

Questions
1) What is Jute? and write the type of jutes are suitable enough to
make fabric.
2) Explain the Jute Cultivation.
3) Draw the flow chart and explain jute processing.
Reference
1) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jute_cultivation
2) https://avecobaggie.com/7-processing-steps-of-jute-fiber-the-next-eco-
friendly-fabric-for-your-bags/#1_Apparel_And_Bags
3) http://www.worldjute.com/jute_technology/techno_processing_3.html

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