Clock One, build instructions

3D printed parts files here:

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-108295

Hardware needed:
Shafts, steel or brass, diameter: 3/16 or 5mm
2 x 4”, 100mm
1 x 3” 3/8, 85 mm
1 x 3” ½, 89 mm
1 x 2” 5/8, 67 mm
1x 1” 5/8, 41 mm
2 x 1” 3/8, 35mm

4 x 3/16-Inch Brass Compression Sleeves used as bearings (or 5-7 mm brass tubing)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLWSQD5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asi
n_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Fitting

Screws: 10x M3 x 12 and nuts, 1x M3 x 15 and nut, 4x M3 x 10

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0768Y98NB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin
_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

8 foot of string (2m) , I used some paracord, but removed the core

3/8 dowel and 34” 1/2 long, 10mm diameter and 876 mm long

2 weights made with pvc pipe, or ABS or steel, with 3D printed plugs filled with steel
balls, solid piece of steel, lead, or sand (make the pipe about 3 1/2 time longer)
Big weight about 4,8 lbs, 2,2 kg
Small weight about 0.6 lbs,275g

1 piece of wood (min 14”, 350 mm) to mount the clock with 4 wood screws

Tools:
3D printer
Screwdriver and pliers
Flat and round files, I found a 3/16 round file used to sharpen chainsaw, handy to
clean the bore of the gears, sand paper, 100 grit
Hacksaw, utility knife
Measuring tools
Optional: drill press, power tool

Note:
I found great information about how to design the escapement here:
http://www.abbeyclock.com/escpdf.html
Place the back frames on the wood,
Install shafts on the frames: from left to right: 100 mm, 85 mm and 67 mm
Install the escape wheel and the 60-8 gear, clean the bore if needed.
Use the “spacer64” as a guide and screw both back frames

Once the frames are set, I drill the wood to increase the fit of the main frame. There
is a lot of weight pulling on those shafts.
Finally, adjust the length of the main shafts at 85 mm from the wood face.
If the shafts are too loose, use epoxy, or super glue to fix them in place.
It might be a good idea to wait until the whole clock is assembled the do that.

Next, install the main shaft in the 64-8 gear

The distance from the back side of gear and the end of shaft should be 23 mm
Also the shaft should tight on the gear, if not, add some glue, epoxy or superglue
Then install the ratchets on the holder, Use 4 M3x12 screws and nuts, note the
direction of the install, otherwise the cord will catch on the end of screws.

Next, assemble the two haves of the pulley. Use 4 M3 x 12 screws and nuts.
Alternate the spokes to give more grip to the cord
Install 2 brass compression sleeves
I used those sleeves as bearings, since there is a fair amount of weight on the pulley
I could redesign the pulley to get rid of those sleeves

Install the pulley on the main shaft, double check the length of the shaft, here 8 mm
Detail of the pulley from the side (Earlier prototype), the wawing increase the grip
of the cord with the pulley.
Assemble the anchor
The anchor with the lever using 2 M3 screws and nuts and the 41 mm shaft
Glue the shaft if needed

Prepare the front Frame and hands

Gear 30 with the hour hand
Gear 32 on the 35 mm shaft with gear 10 on front
Gear 8 with the other 35 mm shaft and second hand
One brass sleeve in the center of the front frame
Front face and front frame check

Back frame complete

And with front frame on:

Main shaft close up and shimming:

1 washer under all shafts
3 washers between main gear and top frame
3 washers between top frame and hour gear 30

Another side view:

And front view

Pendulum:
Join both pendulum halves, had weight to improve the functionality
Join adjusting screw halves and bolt all parts with the rod

My pendulum set up with a 3/8 dowel and 34” 1/2 long, 10mm diameter and 876
mm long
Ready to run: