GIMNAZIJA JURIJA VEGE IDRIA CIPKARSKA SOLA IDRIJA an AKA SOLAIDRIA POLPREMET V IDRIJSKEM RISU HALF STITCH IN IDRIJA NARROW TAPE LACEIDRUSKA CIPKA IDRUA LACE Avtorica vzorénih predlog / Patterns: Naérti v mednarodni barvni skali / Technical drawings in ICC: Ragunalniska obdelava vzorénih predlog in naértov / Computer processing of the patterns and the technical drawings: ledetava tipk / Laces made by: Urednici / Editors: Tehniéno urejanje in oblikovanje / Technical editing and design Fotografije / Photos: Oblikovanje nastovnice / Cover design: Prevod / Translation Jezikovni pregled / Language check Zalodnik / Published by: Tisk / print Naklada / copies: 1 0 ISL 03) 2010 © Gimnazija Jurija Vege ldrija, Cipkarska Zola ldrija Vse pravice pridrane. Uporabo del dovoljujemo ab navajanju avtorstva za nekomercialno rabo invnespremenjeni oblki. Brez pisnega dovoljenja zaloznika je 2a namene tréenja prepovedano vsakrno razmnozevanje publikacie ali njenih delov in trenje idelkov narejenih po vsebini publikacije. POLPREMET V IDRIJSKEM RISU HALF STITCH IN IDRIJA NARROW TAPE LACE Maja Svetlik Arhiv Cipkarske Sole Idrija, Maja Svettik Dragica Cesnik, Stana Frelih, Metka Fortuna, Anka Jaméek, Katarina Mlakar, Meta Gregoraé, Ines Cuk, Marija Novak Bo8kovié, Irena Laharnar, Mira Guzel, Bojana Tratnik Maja Svetlik, Metka Fortuna Branka Stremfel, ABC Merkur 4.0.0. Robert Zabukovec Branka Stremfel, ABC Merkur d.o.0. Sonja Bendina Sonja Bengina Gimnaaja Jura Vege eri, Cipkarska Stal, tej 2019 EtketaZiri 1. natis / 1. print: 1000 kos / pieces CIP - Kataloéni zapis 0 publikacji Narodna in univerzitetna knjiznica, Ljubljana 746.211497 Aldrijall035) SVETLIK, Maja ldrijska Gipka. Polpremet v idriiskem risu = Idrija lace. Half stitch in ldrija narrow tape lace / [avtorica vzorénih predlog Maja Svetlik ; naérti vmednarodni barvni skali arhiv Cipkarske Sole Idrija ; fotografije Robert Zabukovec ; prevod Sonja Bencinal. - 1. natis = 1st print. ~ ldrija : Gimnazija Jurija Vege, Cipkarska Sola, 2019 ISBN 978-961-92660-8-3, 1. GL. stv. nasl. 2. Vzp. stv. nasl. COBISS.SI-ID 302692352 AlLrights reserved. Use of patterns for non-commercial purpos~ es and in unchanged form is allowed under the condition that the authorship is quoted. For any kind of marketing purposes distribution of either the whole of or parts of the publication is, prohibited without written consent of the publisher. The same applies to marketing of laces made using these patterns.Veebina / Contents POLPREMET V IDRIJSKEM RISU POLPREMET ~ haravnost z notranjimi in zunanjimi postavki = nasnutek na zanke ~ zakljuéek s kvaékanjem v zanke ~ zanke v polpremetu ~ reliefno kva¢kanje in prekvatkanje POLPREMET ovinki POLPREMET = pravokotni vogal POLPREMET ~ koniéasti vogal POLPREMET - ovinki s puSéanjem parov ovinki s posnemanjem parov POLPREMET ~ prehodi iz risa v polpremet in obratno = dodajanje parov ~ odvzernanje paroy, 1. nagin POLPREMET - odvzemanje parov, 2. nagin POLPREMET ~ reliefno kvackanje tekoéega para polpremeta POLPREMET + nasnutek in zakljutek z reliefnim kvazkanjem POLPREMET ~ uravnavanje postavkov z reliefnim kvaékanjem, ~ odvzemanje parov z reliefnim kvaékanjem POLPREMET - vogal iz risa in polpremeta POMEN BARV V MEDNARODNI BARVNI SKAL! 12 4 2% 26 32 36 38 4 48 52 HALF STITCH IN IDRIJA NARROW TAPE LACE HALF STITCH + straight with inner and outer pins ~ start on loops ~ finish by sewing in loops loops in half stitch raised sewing and false plait HALF STITCH ~ bends HALF STITCH ~ right-angled corner HALF STITCH - pointed corner HALF STITCH - bends with laying aside the weaver pair ~ bends with threads switching direction HALF STITCH - transition from the cloth stitch into the halt stitch and vice versa = adding pairs ~ taking out pairs, method no. 1 HALF STITCH ~ taking out pairs, method no. 2 HALF STITCH ~ raised sewing of the weaver pair in half stitch. HALF STITCH ~ start and finish with raised sewing HALF STITCH ~ adjusting pins with raised sewing + taking pairs out with raised sewing HALF STITCH ~ corner in cloth stitch and half stitch MEANINGS OF THE COLOUR CODE DIAGRAMSPolpremet Vv idri)ckern rigu Pred vai je priroénik Polpremet v idrijskem risu, ki je nadgradnja priroénika Idrijska fipka — Jdrijski ris in sukani ris, Polpremet je tehnika klekljanja, ki jo v idrijski Zipki pososto zasledimo v kombinatijs tehnikami traéne gipke alikot polnitev v éipkah, izdelanih po delih. Ta priroznik ‘obravnava polpremet v kombinacijiz idrijskim risom. Polpremet izdelamo tako, da tekodi in navpiéni par enkrat posukamo ter srednja dva klekeljna prekrizamo (1). V sistemu mednarodne barvne skale (v nadaljevanju MBS) ie polpremet oznagen z zelenim kriziséem (2). TA Na vzorcih se oznaka za polpremet pojavlja kot zapis narobe obrnjenega e-ja (3). Priklekljanju polpremeta se niti prepletajo vodoravno in diagonalno (4). Half stitch in Idrija narrow tape lace Before you is the Half stitch in Idrija narrow tape lace manual, a sequel to the Idrija lace — ldrija narrow tape lace and double stitch manual. In Idrija lace, the halt stitch is a lacemaking technique that can often be seen in combination with tape lace techniques or as a filling in lace worked in parts. This manual focuses on the half stitch in combination with Idrija narrow tape lace. Half stitch is done by twisting the weaver pair and the vertical pair once and then crossing the two inner bobbins (1). In the international colour code (ICC) system, the half stitch is marked with a green cross (2) + 2 On the patterns, half stitch is marked as an “upside-down, €" (3. When making the half stitch, threads run horizon- tally and diagonally (4 Genaka na veoreu = potek niti= MBS = polpremet vEipki Pri polpremetulahko ob robovih postawjamo notranje ali zunanje postavke. Stevilo parov klekeljnov prilagajamo Eirini vzorce, Vzorec idrijske tipke, ki vsebuje tehniko idriskega risa in tehniko polpremeta, je tahko narisan na dva nagina 1. naéin: Tehniki idrijski ris in polpremet na vzorcu prehajata ena v drugo. V tem primeru pri klekljanju idrijske éipke sledimo vzorcu, na ustreznih mestih, Kjer so oznagene povezave v éipki, izdelujemo zanke in vanje kvatkamo. 2. nagin: Tehniki idrijski ris in polpremet sta na veorcu loéeni, vsako od tehnik nasnujemo, izdelamo in zakljugimo posebej. V tem primeru imamo pri klekljanju idrijske ipke dve moZnosti ~ Najprej izdelamo polpremet z notranjimi postavki Nato izdelujemo idrijski ris in na ustreznih mestih, kjer ‘80 oznaéene povezave v Zipki, reliefno zakvaékamov Pattern designation = running of the threads = ICC = half stitch in lace With half stitch, edges can be finished with inner or with outer pins. The number of bobbin pairs can be adapted to the width of the pattern, A pattern containing the technique of the Idrija narrow tape lace and the half stitch technique can be drawn in two ways: 1. The techniques of Idrija narrow tape lace and half stitch merge in the pattern. In this case, we follow the pattern making loops on places that mark con- nections in lace and sewing into them. 2. The techniques of Idrija narrow tape lace and half stitch are separated in the pattern. Here, we start, make and finish each of the techniques separately. In this case, we can follow two lacemaking procedures: - First, we make the half stitch with inner pins. Then ‘we make the Idrija narrow tape lace; on places that‘otranje postavke polpremeta in prekvatkamo. S tem osezemo, da na licu Zipke polpremet relieino izstopa iz celote, ob robu polpremeta se ustvarit. i »Znurcae. —Najorej sklekijamo polpremet in na ustreznih mestih, kkier so oznaéene povezave v ipki, naredimo zanke. Nato izdelujemo idrijski ris in kvatkamo v zanke Polpremeta. V tem primeru polpremet ne bo reliefno izstopal iz celote. Ce se odlotimo za to moznost, tahko vrsini red izdelave posamezne tehnike zamenjamo. Vzorci v tem priroéniku so avtorsko delo Maje Svetlik, risarke vzorcev v Cipkarski Soli Idrija. Njeno osnovno vodilo ~ poleg vk\juzevanja tehnike polpremet v vzorce idrijskega risa je bilo, da vsebina prirotnika sistematicno sledi poglabljanju znanja klekljanja tehnike polpremet, vendar izdelana éipka pri tem ne sluzi zgoljza utrjevanje znanja, temved je lahko na najrazli¢nejSe nagine aplicirana v tkanino. Tako so nastali vstavki, ki jh lahko 2 dopolnjenimi zrcatnimi vzorci ali posameznimi deli, iavzetimi iz osnovnega vzorca, sestavljamo v poljubne celote ali zanimive asimetriéne kompozicie. Vsebino tega prirognika sestavijajo vajenice — vzorci za uéenje posameznih elementov polpremeta, naérti za Klektjanje, ki so narisani v MBS, vzorei za utrjevanje in Luporabo usvojenih elementov z dodatnimi naérti v MBS, eso potrebri, ter morebitne opisne razlage. Vse vsebine 0 ponazorjene tudi z nazornimi fotografijami zipk, izdelanin po vzorcih in naértih, ki jh vsebuje priroénik. Cipke so sklekljane z bombaznim sukancem &t. 30. Uporabljeno je razlitno Stevilo parov klekeljnov, odvisno od tehnike in Sirine vzorca Naérte v MBS so izrisale uditeljice klekljanja v Cipkarski Soli Idrija, Cipke so sklekljale uditeljice klekljanja v Cipkarski Soli Idrija ter klekljarice, ki s éipkarsko Solo sodelujejo in so imetnice dovoljenj za oznatevanje lastno izdelanih dipk z oznako geografske oznaébe »ldrijska Eipkaw Ta priroénik ne vsebuje nagrtov v MBS in navodil za klekljanje tehnike idrijski ris, ker so ti predstavljeni v predhodno izdanem prirotniku Idrijska éipka — Idrijski ris in sukani ris. Avtorice ‘mark connections in lace, we do raised sewing in the inner pins of the half stitch and make a false plait. This approach creates a raised effect of the half stitch; when the finished lace is turned right side up, the edge of the half stitch (Znurcal appears raised. - First, we make the half stitch and make loops on places that mark connections in lace. Then we make the Idrija narrow tape lace, sewing into the loops of the half stitch. In this case, the half stitch will not be raised above the rest of the lace. If we follow this, procedure, we can also switch the order of the two techniques. Patterns in this manual are original work by Maja Svetlik, pattern designer atthe Idrija Lace School. When including the half stitch technique in the patterns of the Idrija narrow tape lace, she wished for the manual to systematically progress in teaching the half stitch technique. The pro- duced lace, however, does not only end up being practice piece but can be applied into textiles in various ways. This led Maja to create inserts that can be combined into dif- ferent products or interesting asymmetrical compositions. ‘The manual includes exercise patterns focusing on i dividual halt stitch elements, technical drawings drawn following in international colour code system, patterns to practice and use the acquired elements with addi- tional drawings in ICC if necessary, and supplementary descriptive explanations. Each point is illustrated with detailed lace photographs made following the patterns and technical drawings in this manual and produced us- ing cotton thread no. 30. The number of used bobbin pairs depends on the technique and the width of the pattern, Technical drawings in ICC were done by the teachers of the Idrija Lace School who also made lace together with several lacemakers collaborating with the school who have licences to apply the »idrijska dipka« {ldrija Lace) ‘geographical denomination to their own lace. The manual does not contain technical drawings in ICC or instructions on the Idrija narrow tape lace technique as these are described in the previous manual, ldrija lace — ldrija narrow tape lace and double stitch. The authorsReliefno kvaékanje in prekvatkanje Raised sewing and false plaits Reliefno kvagkanje (tudi kvagkanje »na Znurcoa): pri tem natinu kvatkanja kvacko vstavimo pod pretko, ki nastane takrat, ko tekoti par enkrat posukamo zadnjié na koncu vweste ali prvié na zaéetku vrste. Vsak notranji ali zunanji postavek ima dve pretki, zgornjo in spodnjo; pri kvazkanju izberemo ustreznejéo, pri Zemer upoStevamo na vzorcu narisane povezave v éipki. Prekvackanje: prekvagkanje je eden od natinov, s katerim zapotnimo na vzorcu narisane povezave v Eipki. Prekvatkanje izdelujemo s tekozim parom, ki ga 1. ustrezno posukamo glede na dolzino érte, ki oznatuje povezavo v éipki: 2.reliefno zakvazkamo pod pretko postavka; 3, dvakrat [lahko tudi enkrat) posukamo in zakvaékamo ez posukane niti iz prve tocke. Tretjo tozko po potrebi vezkrat ponovimo, odvisno od dolzine érte, ki oznaguje povezavo véipki: 4, zaklekljamo z navpignim parom, pri gemer pazimo, da tekoti in navpitni par nista posukana, SE Raised sewing (also na Znurco sewing: in this type of sewing, the crochet is inserted under the bar, which is formed by once twisting the weaver pair either as the last twist at the end of line or the first twist atthe beginning ofa line Each inner or outer pin is composed of two bars: the upper and the lower one. When sewing, we choose the more appropriate one considering the connections in lace on the pattern. False plait: making a false plait is one of the ways to fill the connections in lace marked on the pattern. false plaitis made with the weaver pair that is: 1. Twisted to follow the length ofthe line mark- ing the connection in lace; 2, Raised sewn under the bar of the pin; 3. Twice (or once] twisted and sewn over the twisted threads from the first step. If neces- sary, this step can be repeated several times, depending on the length ofthe line marking the connection in lace; 4, Cloth stitched with the vertical pair; make sure that neither the weaver pair nor the vertical pair are twisted1. monost — zanke v polpremetu 1. possibility — loops in half stitch Razen tekoéega in krajnega para, ki je na koncu zadnje vrste zaklek\jan s tekozim parom, so vsi ostali pari pri zakijugevanju polpremeta enkrat posukani, preden jih zakvatkamo v posukane zanke nasnutka. When finishing the half stitch, every pair with the exception of the weaver pair and the edge pair, which are cloth stitched at the end of the last line, is twisted once before we sew it into the twisted loops of the start,2. moznost ~ reliefno kvagkanje in prekvatkanje 2. possibility ~ raised sewing and false plaitsNa notranji strani ovinka so postavki gostejéi kot na zunaanji Postavke razporejamo gim bolj enakomerno, V pahljaéasti obliki. Na notranji strani ovinka obiéajno postaviamo notranje postavke, na zunanji strani ovinka 50 postavki odvisni od vzorca, \Vzorecie narisan na natin, prikaterem sta tehniki irijski ris in polpremet na vzorcu loéeni. Cipka na fotografiji je bila izdelana po drugi moinosti, predstavljeni na strani 8. Seveda jo lahko izdelate tudi po prvi moZnosti, predstevijeni na strani 8 On the inner side of the bend, the pins are denser than, on the outer side. We set the pins as evenly as possible, ina fan shape. On the inner side of the bend, we usually make inner pins, while on the outer side of the bend, the pins follow the pattern, The patternis designed so that the techniques ofthe Idrija narrow tape lace and the half stitch are separated. This, means that the lace on the photo was made following option no. 2 on page 9. Of course, you can also make it, following option no. 1 on page 8. 13Pomoini postavek vpolpremetu Temporary pin in half stitch L Kvaékanjevpomoini postavek Sewing in the temporary pinDodatni krajni par ob polpremetu Extra edge pair next to the half stitch ag Preékanje polpremeta Crossing over the half stitch 16Stevilo pomoznih postavkov je odvisno od Stevila parov in 3tevila postavkov ob zunanjem robu vogala. Vzadnji vrsti pred postavkom vkonici vogala moramo imeti 3 ali4 pare. The number of temporary pins depends on the number of pairs and the number of pins on the outer edge of the corner. In the last line before the pin at the point of the corner, we must have 3 or & pairs.1924122Ceeeraeuila A Ovinek, izdetan s puSéanjem parov C A bend made with laying aside the weaver pair E Ovinek, izdelan s posnemanjem parov ‘Abend made with threads switching direction 242526 Prehodi iz risa v polpremet in pozicije dodanih parovv polpremetu Transition from the cloth stitch into the half stitch and the positions of the added pairs in the half stitch Prehodiiz polpremetavris in pozicije odvzetih parov iz polpremeta Transition from the hall stitch into the cloth stitch and the position: the pairs taken out from the halt stiteh \Polprenet ohranjamo v enakomerni gostoti We keep the half stitch evenly dense. 1 1 Par dudamo, tik preden se vzorec razsiri. Pare We add a pair just before the pattern widens. We add pairs dod ajamo, kjer je polpremet gostejéi, da je dodajanje where the half stitch is denser so that the adding ofthe pairs parev manj opazno. is tess apparent. 2 2 Par odizamemo, ko se polpremet zaéne gostiti. Pare We take a pair outwhen the half stitch begins to get denser. odvzemamo, kjer je polpremet gostejéi. We take pairs out where the half stitch is denser. Dodajanje parov v polpremetu — na levi strani Dodajanje parov v polpremetu — na desni strani Addi ng pairs in the half stitch ~ on the left side ‘Adding pairs in the half stitch — on the right side Odvzemanje parov iz polpremeta, 1. nagin— na levi strani Taking pairs out from the half stitch, method no. 1 — on the left side YYY/ x aa Kd) Ree i: Mei) AAT Ae Odvzemanje parov iz potpremeta, 1. nagin —na desni strani Taking pairs out from the hali stitch, method no. 1 ~ on the right side293031Odvzemanje parov iz polpremeta, 2, naéin ~ na desni strani Taking pairs out from the half stitch, method no. 2— on the right side Odvzemanje parov iz pol- premeta, 2. nagin ~ na levi strani Taking pairs out from the half stitch, methed no. 2—on the left side 3233343536 A Tekoti par polpremeta pred reliefnim kvazkanjem enkrat posukamo. Po reliefnem kvaékanju nadaljujemo s klekljanjem polpremeta, 2a reliefno kvagkanje izberemo 2gornjo preéko postavka in izbiro ohranimo pri vseh postavkih, kjer razporeditev postavkov na vzorcu to omogoéa, The weaver pair in half stitch is once twisted be- he raised fore we make the raised sewing. Afte sewing, we continue making half stitch In raised sewing, we choose the upper bar of the pin every time the position of the pins in the pattern allows this choice.37Zakljuéek 2 reliefnim kvatkanjem Finish with raised sewing Nasnutek 2 reliefnim kvaékanjem Start with raised sewing 383940424344 Kadar postavki na levi in desni strani niso simetrigni, jh lahko uravnavamo 2 reliefnim kvaékanjem, in sicer: 1.na strani, kjer imamo postavkov premalo, zakvaékamo na koncu vrste v zgornjo pregko postavka, na koncu naslednije vrste pa v spodnjo precko istega postavka; 2.na strani, kier imamo postavkov preveé, zakvatkamo na koncuvrste v 2gornjo preéko prvega postavka in Be v zgornjo pretko drugega postavka, When the pins on the left side are not symmetrical with the ones on the right side, we can adjust them with raised sewing: 1. Where there are too few pins, we sew in the upper bar of the pin at the end of the line and in the lower bar of that same pin at the end of the next line; 2. Where there are too many pins, we sew in the upper bar of the first pin as well as the upper bar of the second pin at the end of the line. Ge imamo moinost, pare iz polpremeta edvzemamo z relietnim kva¢kanjem: 1. tekodi par zakvatkamo v zgornjo preéko in ga odlozimo; 2. prvi naypiéni par, ki ga enkrat posukamo in zakvaékamo v spodnjo prezko, postane novi tekoti par. If possible, pairs are taken out from the hall stitch with raised sewing: 1, We sew the weaver pair into the upper bar and take it out: 2. The first vertical pair is once twisted, sewn into the lower bar, and becomes the new weaver pair.454647Dodajanje parov v risu ‘Adding pairs in cloth stitch Odvzemanje parov iz risa Taking pairs out from the cloth stitch =o hE fe Vidit | EceeEE 4849505152 POMEN BARV V MEDNARODNI BARVNI SKALI VIJOLICNO KRIZISCE: ~ cel premet (zaklekljam. OBKROZENO VIJOLIENO KRIZISCE: ~ dvakrat zaklekljam (zaklekljam, posukam, prekri RUMENA CRTA: ~ ena nitka. MODRA CRTA: - kitica RDECE KRIZISCE: ~ para sta posukana in zaklekljana. ZELENO KRIZISCE: ~ para sta posukana in prekrizana / polpremet [posukam, prekrizaml DODATNO SUKANJE MEANINGS OF THE COLOURED CODE DIAGRAMS VIOLET CROSS: ~ make a cloth stitch (cross, twist, cross]. ENCIRCLED VIOLET CROSS; ~ fixing stitch (cloth stitch, twist, cross YELLOW LINE: ~ one thread. BLUE LINE: ~ plait. RED CROSS: ~ twist both pairs once and make a cloth stitch. A GREEN CROSS; - make a half stitch (twist, cross) ADDITIONAL TWISTBelezke / NotesBelezke / NotesBelezke / NotesCIPKARSKA SOLA IDRUA. Prelowéeva 2 5280 IDRUA, SLOVENIA telefon/telephone: +4386 59.075 314 €-poita/e-mall: trgovina@cipkarskasola.si spletna trgovina/online shop: http;//idrjska-cipka.moja-kosarica.si/si/ vwoww.cipkarskasola.si