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Entering Silver Street, a mean thoroughfare, all too narrow for its
volume of traffic, and demanding no small caution from all and
sundry, we have on our left a building for all the world like a College
—so frequently, indeed, mistaken for one by newcomers, as to have
gained the nickname of "the Freshman's College." In reality this is
the University Printing Press, or the Pitt Press, as it is commonly
called; the existing frontage opposite Pembroke having been erected
in 1831, in memory of that statesman, who was a member of
Pembroke College.[12] All the official printing of the University is
done here, and the building also serves as the quarters of the
University Registrary, who keeps the record of Entrances, Degrees,
etc.
At the end of Silver Street, which is, happily, little over a hundred
yards in length, we reach an iron bridge over the Cam; its placid
stream "footing slow," as Milton says (in Lycidas), and only some
thirty feet in breadth. Above the bridge, however, it widens out into
a broad pool, enlivened by the rush of water from the "King's Mill,"
beyond which the eye ranges over the open levels of "Sheep's
Green." Both the mill and the bridge are amongst the oldest features
of Cambridge, and the tolls payable at both were in mediæval times
a Royal monopoly. The King's agent in collecting them on this bridge
(known as "The Small Bridge" in contradistinction to the more
important structure beneath the Castle) was a hermit, for whose
accommodation a small bridge-house and chapel were built. This
curious use of hermits, as keepers of roads and bridges, was
common in Cambridgeshire before the Reformation.
At Silver Street bridge the river enters on its course through the
enchanted ground of the "Backs," and the visitor will do well to take
water at the adjoining boat-house; for the stream here forms for half
a mile a byway lovely beyond words, not to be matched elsewhere in
all the world; flowing, as it does, between venerable piles of
academic masonry, and "trim gardens," the haunts of "retired
leisure"; umbrageous, as it is, with the shade of lime, and elm, and
beech, and chestnut, and weeping willow, and laburnum; spanned,
as it is, by bridge after bridge, each a new revelation of exquisite
design.
First we find ourselves with the old red brick fabric of Queens'
College on the one bank and the thicket of "Queens' Grove" on the
other, joined together by a wooden bridge, attributed to Sir Isaac
Newton, the Great Natural Philosopher and discoverer of the Law of
Gravity. A miracle of ingenious construction is this bridge, formed of
a series of mutually supporting beams requiring not a single bolt to
hold them together. Such at least it was till a few years ago, when
the old timbers, after two hundred years' wear, fell into decay and
had to be replaced, as nearly in facsimile as modern skill could
compass.
A few yards further and the red brick of Queens' gives place to the
white stone of King's; the proximity reminding us that the Founders
of these two beautiful Colleges were husband and wife, "the Royal
Saint," King Henry the Sixth, and his heroic Consort, Margaret of
Anjou. Poor young things! They were but twenty-two and fifteen
respectively when they began these monuments of their liberality
and devotion—upon the very eve of that miserable conflict, the wars
of "the rival Roses," which brought about the downfall and death of
both. But their work survived them, to be completed by Royal
successors; King's by Henry the Seventh, Queens' by Elizabeth
Woodville, wife of Henry's rival, Edward the Fourth of York.
Clare Bridge.
Clare Bridge passed, the College gardens of Clare and Trinity Hall
(which last must not be confounded with the larger and later
foundation of Trinity College) flank our course on either side for a
short space, till the next bridge, Garret Hostel Bridge, which
proclaims its non-Collegiate origin by being (like Newnham Bridge) a
tasteless structure of iron. It is, in fact, a public thoroughfare; the
road leading to it, Garret Hostel Lane, being the solitary survival of
the dozen or so of little streets which gave access to the River from
mediæval Cambridge, till the banks were usurped by the Colleges.
And in its name we have the last surviving reminder of those
"Hostels," or officially recognised lodging houses, which, before
Colleges came into being (and for some while after), provided
accommodation for the swarming students of the mediæval
University.
With St. John's the Collegiate buildings cease and are succeeded
by the last remaining "Hithes," or quays, used for commercial traffic,
which of old lined the banks for the whole length of Cambridge. We
read of Corn Hithe, Pease Hithe, Flax Hithe, Garlic Hithe and others.
For the river was to old Cambridge all and more than all that the
railways are now, the great artery of traffic, by which goods were far
more easily and cheaply conveyed than along the roads of the
period, which were always rough and often mere "Sloughs of
Despond." Most especially was this the case with fuel, so that in the
seventeenth century it was a familiar local saying that "here water
kindleth fire." These ancient hithes, like the street-ways leading to
them, have been almost all absorbed by the various College
precincts. The last, as we have said, are to be seen yet, still in use,
with barges (still laden chiefly with firewood) lying at them, below
St. John's, by the side of the "Great Bridge," that famous passage of
the river to which Cambridge owes both its name and its very
existence. Opposite the lowest of them there is one more riverside
College, Magdalene, an old monastic educational establishment
turned to its present purpose at the time of the Reformation by Lord
Thomas Audley of Saffron Walden, a courtier of King Henry the
Eighth, who had obtained a grant of it from that rapacious monarch.
Our Cam byway here ends; for the river here passes out of the
populated area of Cambridge. It is noteworthy that this area abuts
on its banks to the same extent and no more than it did seven
hundred years ago. The King's Ditch, which then bounded it, left the
stream at the King's Mill, where our voyage started, and rejoined it
just opposite Magdalene, where that voyage closes. It is well worth
while, however, to retrace our course, for we shall find fresh
loveliness in the reverse views of the exquisite scenery through
which we have passed; and may note the many disused archways in
the College walls, which tell how, scarcely a generation ago, this
unique gem of English landscape was actually defiled by being used
as a shamelessly open sewer.
CHAPTER III
Through this gateway we now make our way into the Premier[16]
College of Cambridge, and soon find ourselves face to face with one
of the most beautiful views of the world. Before us spreads a
spacious lawn, the most extensive in existence,[17] bounded on three
sides by the white and grey walls of College buildings, while on the
fourth it merges into the wooded grass-land of the Backs; the river
which divides it from these being scarcely perceptible from this
point. We get a glimpse, however, of Clare Bridge, terminating the
graceful façade of that College, which is in our immediate front.
Behind us are the nineteenth-century additions to King's, and to our
right front the fine pile of "Gibbs' Buildings," erected, in the
eighteenth century, as a first attempt to approximate in some degree
to the wishes of the Royal Founder, and transfer his College from the
cramped position it had hitherto occupied, at the north of the
Chapel, to the ampler site on the south which he had originally
destined for it, and had cleared for his purpose by buying up and
sweeping away, church and all, one of the most thickly populated
parishes in Cambridge, that of "St. John Zachary" (i.e. St. John the
Baptist), including a furlong's length of Mill Street.
This was in 1440. He at once put hand to the work, and that same
year signed the Charters for both Colleges; the Head of each being
called "Provost," in order, as he said, "to weld the two Colleges
together in a bond of everlasting brotherhood,"—a bond which
actually lasted in its entirety till 1870, and of which traces even yet
remain.
The acquisition of the sites involved complicated legal transactions
which occupied several years; but by 1444 Eton was sufficiently
advanced to receive its first Scholars, a colony brought by William of
Waynflete from Winchester; and by 1446 Henry was able to dedicate
the first stone of his Cambridge chapel. Every dimension of this
glorious edifice he himself worked out with the utmost minuteness,
and set down, as he would have it completed, in that notable record
of his purposes still preserved in the College Library, and known as
his "Will." The word had not in those days its present purely
posthumous signification, but was used of any formal disposition of
a man's estate, or any part of it, to some given purpose.
And Milton, when he came under the spell of this most glorious
sanctuary, forwent all his conscientious objections to the Laudian
revival of ornate services, "the scrannel pipes of wretched straw,"
and all the rest of his denunciations, and was, in spite of himself,
carried away into forgetfulness of all save the glory and the beauty
around him. Hear him in "Il Penseroso":
"But let my due feet never fail
To walk the studious cloister's pale,
And love the high embowed roof,
With antique pillars massy proof,
And storied windows richly dight,
Casting a dim religious light.
There let the pealing organ blow
To the full-voiced choir below,
In Service high and Anthem clear,
As may with sweetness, through mine ear,
Dissolve me into ecstasies
And bring all Heaven before mine eyes."
Clare College from King's.