What’s the Difference Between

Bread Flour and All-Purpose Flour?

Some loaves absolutely require bread flour—
others are better off with all-purpose. Here’s why.
By Claire Saffitz and Zoe Denenberg
August 10, 2023

Photo and Food Styling by Joseph De Leo

Depending on how much you know about baking, the flour section of
the grocery store can be either extremely exciting or completely
terrifying. There are so many varieties—not just all-purpose flour and
bread flour, but cake and pastry flours too (not to mention the ever-
broadening selection of whole grain flours, bleached flour vs.
unbleached, and so many more variables). Sorry if we just
overwhelmed you. Today, we’ll focus on a few basics: the difference
between all-purpose flour and bread flour. In case you couldn’t guess,
they serve specific, slightly different functions.

Bread flour vs. all-purpose flour:

So what is bread flour and what sets it apart from all-purpose? It all
starts with the type of wheat. Thousands of wheat varieties grow
across the world, and each can be processed into a distinct type of
flour. (Note: We’re just talking about white flour right now—we’ll save a
discussion of whole wheat flour, rye, buckwheat, spelt, oat, and various
nut flours for another time.)
One of the primary differences between various flours is the hardness
of the wheat from which it was made. “Hardness” refers to the texture
of the wheat—it’s determined by whether the endosperm, a.k.a. the
protein-rich part of the kernel that’s milled into flour, is physically hard
or soft. Hard wheat has a higher protein content, whereas soft wheat
contains more starch and less protein.

Bread flour helps this simple sandwich bread hold its shape; using AP instead would make it
fall flat.
Photograph by Isa Zapata, food styling by Judy Kim, prop styling by Gözde Eker

Made from a mix of hard and soft wheat, all-purpose flour has a
moderate amount of protein (9–11%). Meanwhile, the protein content of
bread flour—made from hard wheat only—ranges from 11–13%. That
small percentage jump might not seem significant, but it makes a big
difference in the texture of your baked goods. That’s all thanks to a little
something called gluten.

A type of protein in wheat (and some other grains), gluten gives baked
goods structure, typically through kneading. Since bread flour has a
higher protein content than all-purpose flour, it’s able to develop more
gluten. This leads to bread with more chew—a desirable characteristic
in pizza dough, flatbread, or sourdough. Gluten also lends bread dough
its stretch and elasticity, leading to loaves that rise high instead of
blobs that fall flat.

Outside of bread baking, gluten development is generally considered

enemy number one. While some gluten is necessary for the structure of
many baked goods, too much will yield a dense, stodgy texture. That’s
why most cake, cookie, and brownie recipes warn against overmixing—
to ensure the gluten content stays low.
TL;DR: If you’re most interested in baking simple cakes, cookies, and
the occasional batch of muffins or quick breads, all-purpose flour will
work for the majority of your projects. But if you’re interested in bread
baking, you might want to consider keeping a bag of bread flour in your
pantry.

Do all bread recipes require bread flour?

Sourdough boules, bagels, and your basic loaf of bread all rely on the
high protein level of bread flour to develop a strong gluten network. But
not all homemade bread recipes call for bread flour. When it’s an ultra-
tender, fluffy bread dough we’re after—as in our recipes for no-knead
focaccia, challah, and cinnamon rolls—we reach for all-purpose (AP)
flour. AP flour can provide adequate structure to delicate bread doughs
while keeping them soft and plush. There are some exceptions to this
rule: BA’s Best Bread recipe calls for AP flour—specifically King Arthur
all-purpose flour, which contains 11% protein (higher than most other
brands)—but makes a hardy, crusty loaf. That’s why it’s part of BA’s
Best—you can make it anytime, even if you don’t keep a fully stocked
bread pantry.

Wait, what about bread flour vs. cake flour…and

pastry flour too?
Glad you asked. Bread and AP flour aren’t the only labels you’ll see in
the baking aisle: There are also low-protein flours specifically
engineered for cakes and pastries. Whereas bread is supposed to be
chewy (and therefore chock full of gluten), cake is supposed to be
fluffy and tender. Accordingly, cake flour is low in protein, usually
around 9%. Pastry flour has an even lower protein content than cake
flour, clocking in at around 8%, and is mostly used to make pie crusts,
biscuits, and scones—anything where you want a tender, crumbly, or
flaky texture. In a pinch, feel free to swap cake or pastry flour for AP
flour in recipes where tenderness is desirable (like pancakes), but not
for sturdier doughs like flatbreads.

Can I swap one type of flour for another?

BA’s resident baking expert Shilpa Uskokovic says that if you’re out of
bread flour, you can generally swap in unbleached all-purpose flour in a
1:1 ratio, but that you may need to reduce the amount of liquid to offset
the decrease in protein. Hold about ¼ of the liquid back and add it
slowly, paying attention to your recipe’s visual cues for guidance. Note
that it must be unbleached flour: Bleaching softens the proteins even
further, which could sabotage your dough.

Using bread flour in place of all-purpose flour is tricker. If you’re baking

high-hydration bread—like a sourdough boule or pan de cristal—which
requires a high protein content to develop its gluten network, Shilpa
doesn’t recommend it. “The resulting loaf will be tight-crumbed and a
bit squat,” she says. You should never attempt to swap bread flour into
a recipe for baked goods in which a light, tender texture is desired. “I’d
be comfortable subbing 1:1 in a recipe like drop cookies, which aren’t
hinging on a tender, spongy crumb,” Shilpa says. If you’re baking cake
or pastries, though, it’s worth a run to the store to pick up the right
flour.

Generally speaking, Shilpa advises seeking out the type of flour called
for in the recipe. “Someone worked very hard to create a recipe that
works a certain way,” she says. “Using the wrong flour may lower your
chances of success.”
Ready to bake?

BA's Best Bread

This bread has a nutty flavor and intense chew; it makes toast that’s a
wholesome meal unto itself.

View Recipe