PatcH 2O ™

by Beauty Creations
Rapid and lasting hydration
Summary file

PatcH2O™ Reference A00297

Origin - Description Synergistic mixture of hydrating polymers and molecules.
Regulatory data
INCI Water, Glycerin, Trehalose, Urea, Serine, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polyacrylate,
Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pullulan, Disodium Phosphate,
Potassium Phosphate.
Japanese Cosmetic Mizu, Guriserin, Toreharohsu, Nyouso, Serin, Penchiren Gurikoru, Poriakurirusan
Denomination guriseriru, Arugin san Na, Kapuri rirugurikoru, Hiaruronsan Na, Pururan, Rinsan 2
Na, Rinsan K.
Beauty Care Solutions
China INCI listed in "International Cosmetic ingredient standard Chinese name" (2007 version),
in "International Cosmetic ingredient standard Chinese name" (2010 version) and plant
listed in "MOH (Ministry Of Health) Approved Used Cosmetic Ingredients" (2003 version).
Cosmetic Operational Procedure
PRELIMINARY SPECIFICATION SHEET (COP) # 14-11
CAS# 7732-18-5, 56-81-5, 99-20-7, 57-13-6, 56-45-1, 5343-92-0, 104365-75-5,
Version dated April 26, 2012

9005-38-3,
Product 1117-86-8, 9067-32-7, 9057-02-7, 7558-79-4, 7778-77-0.
PatcH2O
Max. shelf-life:
Ref. A00297 12 months -TBC
EINECS# 231-791-2, 200-289-5, 202-739-6, 200-315-5, 200-274-3, 226-285-3,/,
232-680-1,
ANALYSIS NAME214-254-7, 232-678-0, 232-945-1, 231-448-7, 231-913-4.
SPECIFICATIONS
METHOD
(ref. COP#)

Preservative None.
CHEMICAL ANALYSES
(Results are given in g for 100 g of finished product.)

Preliminary Dry matter content (15 hours, 105°C) - 30 - 50 57-25

Total Inorganic Matter Content (15 hours, 600°C) - < or = 1% 57-25
specifications
PHYSICAL ANALYSES

Clear to cloudy
Appearance - liquid 57-75

Color - White to Yellow 57-75

Odor - Characteristic 57-75
pH (Direct) - 4.0 - 8.0 57-31

BACTERIOLOGICAL ANALYSES

total aerobic bacteria (30 °C) - < or = 100/g BASF/08/2009

Pathogens : (S. Aureus; E. Coli; P.Aeruginosa;
C.Albicans; A.Niger) - None BASF/08/2009

Storage Storage temperature: 10 - 30°C.

Avoid freezing. VISA Anne BENISTI
Quality Control Manager
Life span 12 months.
Formulation data
The Specifications Sheet indicates the range of values in wich the analytical characteristics of the product take place, and if necessary, the compliance of the product with some
non-analytical analytical characteristics.
Properties Powerful 'anti-thirst' hydration, for immediate and lasting effect
These data apply exclusively to the sample or the Product indicated in reference.

The Specifications Sheets are progressively set, according to the number of analyzed batches, in accordance with the following process:
• Rapid water boost for thirsty skin,
>> Preliminary Specifications Sheet
The indicated values are determined after analysis of one batch only.
• Restores the quality of the cutaneous barrier.
They may be adjusted after analysis performed on several pilot or industrial batches.

>> Temporary Specification Sheet

Applications • Hydrating body milk ,

The indicated values are determined after analysis of at least 3 pilot or industrial batches.

>> Final Specifications Sheet

• Express refreshing serum,
The indicated values are determined after analysis of at least 10 pilot or industrial batches.

• Lasting comfort hydrating treatment,

Although all statements and information in this publication are believed to be accurate and reliable, they are presented gratis and for guidance only, and risks and liability for results obtained by use of the

• Soothing dry skin prevention lotion,

products or application of the suggestions described are assumed by the user. THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND. TO THE EXTENT PERMISSIBLE BY LAW, ALL EXPRESS AND IMPLIED
WARRANTIES ARE DISCLAIMED. Statements or suggestions concerning possible use of the products are made without representation or warranty that any such use is free of patent infringement and are not
recommendations to infringe any patent. The user should not assume that toxicity data and safety measures are indicated or that other measures may not be required.

• Hydrating shampoo and gel.

Concentration of use 1 to 3%.
Solubility Soluble in water, alcohols and glycols.

Incorporation method Add at the end of formulation at 30° C with planetary stirring
recommended pH of the formulation between 4 and 7.
Patent Application filed.
BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS Page 1/1

Head office: Sales office:

In France France Japan USA

32, rue Saint Jean de Dieu Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 21F
49, Av. Georges Pompidou 50 Health Sciences Drive,
69366 Lyon Cedex 07 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku
92593 Levallois Cedex New York, NY 11790
Tél. +33 4 72 76 60 00 Tokyo 106-6121
Tél. +33 1 49 64 50 00 Phone +1- 631-380-2300
Fax +33 4 78 58 09 71 Phone +81-3-3796-9214
Fax +33 1 49 64 50 50 Fax +1- 631-689-2904
beautycaresolutions@basf.com Fax +81-3-3796-9299
bcs-europe@basf.com bcs-northamerica@basf.com
www.cosmetics.basf.com bcs-asia@basf.com
 Table of contents

PatcH2O™, Rapid and long lasting hydration...........................................................5

The keys to hydration..............................................................................................7
PatcH2O™, the winning combination.......................................................................9
PatcH2O™, Technological Innovation.....................................................................11
The challenges of the cosmetic market...................................................11
Description..............................................................................................12
PatcH2O™: a demonstrated efficacy......................................................................13
Aqua-guard power measurement............................................................14
Measurement of dielectric conductivity - Tagami Test............................15
Measuring dissemination and storage of serine
and urea in the Stratum corneum............................................................16
In vivo evaluation of the effectiveness of PatcH2O™ moisturizing...........18

Conclusion............................................................................................................21
Bibliography..........................................................................................................23
Appendix 1- PatcH2O™ formulation data...............................................................24
Appendix 2- Formula used in clinical trials.............................................................25

Although all statements and information in this publication are believed to be accurate and reliable, they are
presented gratis and for guidance only, and risks and liability for Results obtained by use of the products or
application of the suggestions described are assumed by the user. SELLER MAKES NO WARRANTY OF ANY
KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, BY FACT OR LAW, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY
OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Statements or suggestions concerning possible use of the
products are made without representation or warranty that any such use is free of patent infringement and are not
recommendations to infringe any patent. The user should not assume that toxicity data and safety measures are
indicated or that other measures may not be required. The claims and supporting data provided in this publication
have not been evaluated for compliance with any jurisdiction’s regulatory requirements and the Results reported
may not be generally true under other conditions or in other matrices. Users must evaluate what claims and
information are appropriate and comply with a jurisdiction’s regulatory requirements. Recipient of this publication
agrees to (i) indemnify and hold harmless each entity of the BASF organization for any and all regulatory action
arising from recipient’s use of any claims or information in this publication, including, but not limited to, use in
advertising and finished product label claims, and (ii) not present this publication as evidence of finished product
claim substantiation to any regulatory authority.

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 3

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 4
 PatcH2O™, Rapid and long lasting hydration
Composed of a unique polysaccharide mesh, PatcH2O™ is BASF Beauty
Creations' new technology, which controls the release of active hydrating
agents to provide immediate hydration and to prolong the effect for up to
5 days.

S
imple but effective. This is
the motto that has guided the
development of PatcH 2 O ™ .
What could be more essential for
skin than hydration? It is essential
to its correct functioning, mechanical
properties, comfort and youthfulness.
Consumers cannot be wrong: in
2011/2012, hydration still represents
the second largest cosmetics market
in terms of sales behind anti-aging.
Reconciling immediate and lasting
hydration is today's main challenge.
How can we maintain the efficacy
of ingredients like urea or serine
over a period of time? Vectorization
technologies have never been
as effective as when it comes to
controlling the dissemination of active
ingredients.
An acknowledged expert in the The latter consists of glycerin, urea
programmed release of cosmetic and serine and also trehalose that
ingredients, BASF Beauty Creations brings its stabilizing power to the
has implemented all its expertise in cell membranes to give the perfect
developing PatcH2O™. The molecular finishing touch to the association and
PatcH which composes it allows the preserve the full integrity of the cells
association of a progressive time of the skin and the skin barrier. The
release of hydrating active ingredients efficiency tests prove it: in vitro, ex
with a film-forming effect to preserve vivo or in vivo, the effectiveness of
the natural hydration of the skin. The PatcH2O™ is indisputable.
secret of this PatcH? A molecular
mesh that combines 3 sugars: PatcH 2O ™, never has immediate
pullulan, alginate, and hyaluronic acid. hydration been as sustainable.
Amazing physical properties of
complex sugar, pullulan contributes
both its ability to form a film and its
antioxidant properties. Combined with
the film-forming properties of alginate
and hyaluronic acid, the network
thus formed acts as a reservoir that
gradually distills its hydrating complex.

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 5

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 6
 The keys to hydration
Skin hydration works mainly on the surface but has a very strong impact on
all of the qualities of the skin: radiance, elasticity, youth and comfort are
the real issues of hydration.

Superficial but not Challenges But what can we expect more than
well moisturized skin? By improving
superfluous and strategies skin hydration, we improve not

T
alking about skin hydration is Once we know the importance and only the barrier effect and the
above all else talking about effectiveness of the NMF and the natural balance of the skin but
hydration of the, Stratum HA in skin hydration, what could be also numerous parameters related
corneum (the cornea layer) and the more obvious than to apply them to its appearance and youthfulness.
superficial layers of the epidermis. directly onto the skin? Well moisturized skin is first of all
Under physiological conditions, this is
Composition
normally ensured by the NMF, Natural Cosmetics have thus Chemical
(%)
Moisturizing Factor1. used a cocktail of Free amino acids 40
A complex blend of amino acids, ingredients mimicking Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid 12
minerals and osmolytes, NMF has a that of the NMF or the
Lactate 12
phenomenal water retention capacity. HA for decades in order
Sugars 8.5
On its own, NMF ensures half of to bring to the outside
Urea 7
the water retaining capacities of the what the skin produces
Chloride 6
Stratum corneum2. Moreover, it acts normally inside.
on the surface, because most of its With obvious success. Sodium 5
components are found no more than Potassium 4
60 µm from the surface3. Topical application Ammonia, uric acid, glucosamine and creatine 1.5
of NMF components Calcium 1.5
NMF is obviously not the only natural reduces transepidermal Magnesium 1.5
hydration factor. Hyaluronic acid water loss (TEWL) and Phosphate 0.5
(HA) also has a role to play through increases the capacity Citrate and formate 0.5
its hygroscopic power4. There still to retain moisture in Tableau 1: Chemical composition of natural moisturizing factor.
remains free water, or associated with the skin, and this within Dermatologic Therapy, Vol. 17, 2004, 43–48,
other proteins with a higher molecular half an hour following DERMATOLOGIC THERAPY, Moisturization and skin barrier
function, A. V. R AWLINGS * & C. R. HARDING
weight, like keratin. application 5.

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 7

softer, more comfortable, a skin
that "doesn't pull". It is also a
skin that is supple, elastic and far
less wrinkled 6, 7, 8, 9. Generally, well
moisturized skin is skin that looks
younger. It has even been shown
that women who "do not look their
age" are those that have the best
hydration 10. Finally moisturized skin
is also a skin with improved sensory
perception and finer micro-relief 11.
So we know all the benefits of
moisturizing on the one hand, and
on the other we know effective
moisturizers. So where are the
new challenges for moisturizing
products? The main challenge is
clearly to achieve a balance between
immediate and lasting hydration.
Indeed, the effectiveness of the
components of NMF applied topically
is certainly quick but unsustainable.
The challenge then, is to optimize
the use of these components by
extending their bio-availability and
slowing down their diffusion. In
brief, control release.
A widely experienced expert in
the vectorization and controlled
release of active cosmetic
ingredients, BASF Beauty
Creations, with PatcH 2O ™ offers
an efficient technical solution
to meet the needs of a rapidly
expanding market.
April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 8
 PatcH2O™, the winning combination
Thanks to natural bio-polymers such as pullulan, sodium alginate and
hyaluronic acid, PatcH2O™ gives a new youthfulness to classic moisturizing
ingredients like Glycerin, urea, L-serine and trehalose. PatcH2O™ has a
double function: it acts both as a protective film and as a hydration reserve.

Technology Pullulan is naturally produced gels have an ideal porosity that allows

T
he molecular mesh of PatcH 2O ™
is a unique combination of three
polysaccharides - pullulan,
alginate and hyaluronic acid - each
bringing unique physiochemical
properties.
èPullulan
Pullulan is a linear polysaccharide
composed of repeating maltotriose
units (poly-α-1,6-maltotriose).
This polymeric structure gives it
unique gelling, adhesive and film
forming properties 12. Pullulan also
has antioxidant benefits that, in
combination with collagen, can
increase the survival of stem cells
placed in high oxidative stress
and maintain them longer in their
pluripotent state 13.
Pullulan
by Aureobasidium pullulans , a them to trap small molecules while
microscopic ubiquitous non- retaining their free diffusion inside
pathogenic fungus able to adapt to and outside of the gel.
many different environments thanks
to its ability to withstand dehydration,
irradiation and strong salinities. A.
pullulans is what we call an epiphyte:
it grows on the surface of its host Alginate
without causing damage, creating a
barrier to protect against pathogens. Associated with certain drugs, alginate
regulates the rate and kinetics of
A. pullulans is thus an antagonist absorption of active ingredients.
of pathogenic species such as
Aspergillus Niger or Botrytis cinerea, èHyaluronic acid
which explains why it is used in Is there still need to describe it?
the food industry to control the Hygroscopic molecule par excellence
bacteriological environment and - it can hold up to 1,000 times its
protect crops14. volume in water - hyaluronic acid
(HA) has emerged in recent years as
èAlginate the star of wrinkle filler injections.
Alginic acid is a polymer of
D-mannuronic and L-glucuronic units
obtained by basic hydrolysis of brown
algae (Phaeophyceae)15.
Long used as pharmaceutical
excipients for their gelling, stabilizing
and film forming qualities, alginate Hyaluronic acid

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 9

Despite its apparent simplicity of microscopy ( Fig.
structure, this glycosaminoglycan C ). The layered
stands out by the uniqueness of its structure is also
functions: volume, migration, matrix clearly visible Hyaluronic acid
assembly, healing, etc 16, 17. in scanning
Without forgetting, of course, e l e c t r o n
hydration. Half of the epidermal microscopy
HA can be found in the stratum (Fig. D). Alginate
corneum where it interacts not
only with water but also with Hydrating
phospholipids 18. Thanks to its many complex
free hydroxyl groups, hyaluronic acid P a t c H 2O ™ Pullulan
is also capable of associating with would be
other molecules to form complex nothing without
networks. The injectable hyaluronic the moisturizing
acids sold today are mostly cross- complex that 3D modeling of the "Hydrogen" interactions between Hyaluronic Acid,
Alginate and Pullulan.
linked hyaluronic acid 19. it contains:
Combined in proportions of 1:2:1, glycerin - serine
pullulan, alginate and hyaluronic - urea - trehalose. Serine and urea the regulation of the salinity of the
acid form a molecular mesh with the are both components of NMF 20. With extracellular environment 22.
establishment of hydrogen bonds its free hydroxyl group, serine binds Less known, trehalose is even more
that enable the cohesion of the easily with water molecules to form interesting. This disaccharide of
polymers up to dermal application. stable complexes 21. Urea is itself a glucose is mainly used today in
potent osmolyte actively involved in the freezing solutions to improve
This combination of polymers thus the conservation of skin grafts 23, 24.
forms a film on the skin with a During freezing, the water contained
multi-layered structure that is in the grafts forms crystals that alter
easily observed after dehydration. the cell membranes and the overall
Photos taken using the macro quality of the tissue.
fluorescence technique show this
very well organized multi-layer Trehalose However, by binding to phospholipids,
structure ( Fig. A and B ). At higher maintaining their spacing, forming
magnification, there are small a protective layer on the surface
bumps that are reminiscent of the and sometimes even by taking the
micro-needles of new generation place of water molecules, trehalose
Serine Urea
vectors ( Fig. B ). The network itself stabilizes the membranes and finally
can be distinctly observed by optical preserves their integrity 25. Finally,
the addition of trehalose to cryo-
A B
©BASF BCS

©BASF BCS

preservation solutions to protect

stem cells 26, artificial skin 27, skin
grafts 28 and increases the chances
of successful transplantation.

Another advantage of trehalose is

in preventing denaturation by urea
enzymes such as chymotrypsin, a
serine protease similar to those
C D found in the Stratum corneum to
©BASF BCS

©BASF BCS

ensure peeling.

Even if the composition is

already unique in itself, the
innovation lies above all in its
performance: in vitro , ex vivo ,
in vivo , PatcH 2O ™ balances a
short, medium and long term
Microscopic observations of PatcH2O™: A and B. Macrofluorescence. C. Optical microscopy X10. D. moisturizing effect with rarely
Transmission electron microscopy x60. equaled effectiveness.

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 10

 PatcH2O™, Technological Innovation
The challenges of the cosmetic market

T
he moisturizing market
consists of many products, but
few of them today offer long-
lasting hydration. On the dosage
side, most of these products are
composed of oily raw materials,
leaving an uncomfortable feeling of
stickiness on the skin.
BASF Beauty Creations has chosen
PatcH 2O ™ is a new moisturizing a highly concentrated hydration
agents concept, easily formulated, complex of glycerin, serine,
with a silky feel and an ability to really trehalose, and urea.
offer rapid and lasting hydration.
Moisturizing complex
PatcH 2O ™ developed by Beauty
Creations meets all the
requirements of the moisturizing
cosmetic market perfectly.
©BASF BCS

to combine its expertise in controlled

release technology with its FOCUS ON TECHNOLOGICAL
knowledge of bio-macromolecules, INNOVATION: • Long term effect
in order to offer a product using a • Concept PatcH 2O ™ works on two levels for
TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATION that PatcH2O™ is a molecular network optimal hydration.
stands out from the competition. of natural biopolymers transporting - On the surface of the skin,
the alliance of its polymer
film-forming powers forms a
molecular mesh.
- Impregnated with moisturizing
complex, this gradually releases
in to the heart of the superficial
Sl layers of the epidermis.
ow
rel PatcH 2O ™ combats skin dryness
ea
se by decreasing trans-epidermal
of t
he water loss while strengthening
moi
stur the skin's barrier function,
izing
comp ensuring sustained hydration for
lex insi
de the epidermis more than 48H after a single
The mode of action
application.

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 11

• Easy to formulate
A colorless and fluid ingredient,
PatcH 2 O ™ has a composition
specifically chosen for an
optimum formulation. PatcH 2O ™
provides formulations with a silky
smooth, non-greasy feel and
leaves a sensation of comfort
on the skin. PatcH 2O ™ has no
declared preservatives.
Description
™
PatcH 2O is an aqueous solution
based on the innovative association
of film-forming polymers and a
powerful hydrating complex.
Example: Commercial sample of
PatcH2O™ [1], incorporated respectively
into a cream at 3% [2] or [3] hydrogel.

• Proven effectiveness

©BASF BCS
After just one application, PatcH2O™
significantly increases the
hydration of the skin immediately
and this efficiency persists at least
48H. When using a treatment of
repeated applications over 21
days, PatcH2O™ offers significant
hydration which continues for 5
days after discontinuation of the
treatment.

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 12

 PatcH2O™: a demonstrated efficacy
T
he double-action of PatcH 2O ™,
combining the film forming
powers of its polymers with
the effectiveness of its hydrating
complex, ensures immediate and
lasting hydration.
Proven effectiveness in maintaining
water at the surface of the skin
thanks to:
• The measurement of PatcH 2O ™
aqua-guard power on synthetic
skins during 48H.
• The measurement of dielectric
conductivity on human Stratum
corneum of PatcH 2 O ™ in an
aqueous gel up to 48H.
Proven efficacy gradually releasing
its moisturizing active complex in to
the surface layers of the epidermis
using:
• Measuring the release of the
urea and serine contained in
PatcH 2 O ™ in human Stratum
corneum over 48H.
Proven in vivo performance:
• According to a test measuring
of hydration of the upper layers
of the epidermis over 48H after
a single application, using
corneometry.
• Based on a long term 21 day test
measuring hydration up to 5 days
after the last application, using
corneometry.
• According to the self-test
questionnaire filled in by panelists
after twice daily treatment for 21
days.
April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 13
Aqua-guard power measurement
Objective
The purpose of this study is to show the ability of PatcH2O™ to maintain water at the
level of the Stratum corneum using an accelerated evaporation test on synthetic skins
(Vitro-skin ®).
Results &
DISCUSSION
A standardized amount of PatcH 2O ™
or moisturizing complex (PatcH 2O ™
without polymers) was applied to
artificial Vitro-skin ® (10 trials for each
product). Skins were treated and
then dried in an oven and placed on
containers filled with water.
These containers were then placed in
an oven at 45° C for 48H.
Each container's water loss was
then measured by regular weighing.
By simple difference, the Aqua-
guard of PatcH 2O ™ was calculated
in comparison with the moisturizing
complex alone.
These results showed that after 48
hours of conditions of evaporation
at 45° C, the models of Vitro-skin ®
artificial skin treated with PatcH 2O ™
had retained significantly more
water than skin treated with the
only hydrating complex (+ 317%,
p)<0.001) ( figure 1 ).
Materials&Methods
Vitro-skin ®
Vitro-skin® is a Mimetic artificial skin subs-
trate used in many cosmetic tests. With the
same topographies, pH, ionic strength and
critical surface tension as human skin, it is
a good model to study all active ingredients
working on the properties of the skin's sur-
face.
Tested products
• PatcH2O™
• Moisturizing complex only (PatcH2O™
without polymers)
A mix of active moisturizer containing
urea, serine, and trehalose (10%, 3%,
10%) in water
• Control: deionized water
Treatment
PatcH2O™, Moisturizing complex only
and deionized water are applied on 3 cm²
CONCLUSION
Through its unique combination of
film-forming polymers, PatcH 2 O ™
promotes the maintenance of the
water molecules in the skin for
48 hours (models of Vitro-skin ® ).
These properties thus demonstrate
the capability of PatcH 2O ™ to offer
prolonged hydration.
20
Quantity of held water versus Vitro-skin® (%)
Free moisturizing complex
18 (Glycerin, L-serine, Trehalose, urea) 19.7%
***
16 PatcH2O™ ***
14
16.9%
12 x3
x3
10
8 ***
6 ** x2.5 8.7%
x2 6.6% 5.4% 6.2%
4
2 * 3.3% 3.5%
x2 2.1%
0
3h 18h 24h 42h 48h
Figure 1: Assessment of capacity of PatcH 2 O™ and hydrating complex only to limit the evaporation
of water on synthetic skin (Vitro-skin ® ) over 48 hours.
*: statistically significant vs.hydrating complex (p<0.05)
**: statistically significant vs.hydrating complex (p<0.01)
***: statistically significant vs.hydrating complex (p<0.001)
squares of Vitroskin® using a spreader rated Student’s t test, with a threshold of signifi-
at 200 µm thick. The treated skins are then cance set at 5% (p<0.05).
dried at 45° C in a thermo-regulated oven Bibliographic references
for 1 hour in order to obtain a cohesive film • A new in vitro method for transepider-
on the surface. mal water loss: A possible method for
Aqua-guard power measurement moisturizer evaluation. L. M. LIEB, R A.
The processed and dried skins were posi- NASH, J. R. MATIAS, and N. OREN-
tioned on containers containing approxima- TREICH, St.John's University Jamaica,
tely 6 cm3 water, then placed again in the NY 11439 (L.M.L., R.A.N.) and Oren-
oven for fast evaporation. treicho Foundation for the Advancement
Aqua-guard power measurement was Science Inc., 910 Fifth Ave., New York,
achieved by measuring the amount of water N Y 10021 (J.R.M., N.O.)
evaporated over the time. • Water vapor permeability of skin care
The results are expressed as a percentage products in relation to molecular and
of water maintained in comparison to the environmental Influences // A STRUB-
untreated control. MANN*, Akzo Chemicals lnc., 1 Li-
Statistics vingstone Avenue, Dobbs Ferry, NY
The results come from 10 skins processed 10522, USA, H.-J. WEIBEN and A.
for each tested formula . WIRTZ, Akzo Chemicals GmbH, Kreu-
Statistical analysis was performed using zauer Strabe 46,5160 Düren, Germany.
April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 14
 Measurement of dielectric conductivity - Tagami Test
Objective
The purpose of this study is to demonstrate the hydrating power of the complex of
ingredients and the contribution of the network of polymers of PatcH 2O ™ in maintaining
water at the level of the epidermis.
To do this, dielectric conductivity of a human skin biopsies treated with 3% of PatcH2O™
is compared with a biopsy treated with 3% hydrating complex only.
Results &
DISCUSSION
The moisturizing activity of PatcH 2O ™
formulated at 3% in a hydrogel
was assessed by measurement of
the dielectric conductivity. Inherently
weakly hydrated, the Stratum corneum
is a substrate for low electrical
conductivity, not very sensitive to the
electric field due to the bipolarity of
water molecules.
To sum up, more the Stratum
corneum is moisturized the higher the
conductivity.
The application of a hydrogel on
its own naturally increases dielectric
conductivity and therefore the state of
hydration of the Stratum corneum .
The results of PatcH 2 O ™ and the
hydrating complex alone was therefore
expressed in percentage of increase
in dielectric conductivity compared to
hydrogel alone (control).
Materials&Methods
Equipment
• SKICON 200 (IBS).
Tested products
• Control Hydrogel (no active ingredients)
• Hydrogel containing the moisturizing
complex only at 3%
• Hydrogel containing PatcH2O™ at 3%.
Protocol
1 / Preparation of strips of Stratum corneum
This study was conducted with human
skin explants from plastic surgery. Epider-
mal sheets were prepared by peeling of
the dermis after heating at 60° C for 2 mi-
nutes. The Stratum corneum was isolated
by enzymatic digestion as described in the
publication of Rochefort et al.
2 / Dielectric conductivity measurement
The epidermal sheets were balanced in an
The results show that PatcH 2 O ™
formulated at 3% in a hydrogel
increases the dielectric conductivity in
the Stratum corneum quite significantly
compared to the placebo and this
from 30 min up to 48 hours after
application.
48 hours after treatment, the
moisturizing power of PatcH 2O ™ is
on average 1.6 times that of the
moisturizing complex alone ( figure 2 ).
140
% increase in dielectric conductivity
compared to moisturizing complex
120
100
80
60
40
20
17.3% 22%
0
Figure 2: The moisturizing power of PatcH 2 O™ and the Moisturizing Complex alone is expressed in
percentage of increase in dielectric conductivity compared to hydrogel alone.
***: statistically significant vs moisturizing complex (p <0.001)
oven set at a relative humidity (44% - sa-
turated solution of potassium carbonate),
then were treated with each hydrogel by
three consecutive applications spaced 30
minutes apart, applied doses were 1 mg/
cm². (12 trials).
Dielectric conductivity measurements
were carried out prior to treatment and
then up to 48 hours after the third appli-
cation.
The moisturizing effect expressed in per-
centage of increase in dielectric conduc-
tivity compared to conductivity by the
control hydrogel.
Statistics
The measurements were performed in
triplicates on each sample and for each
time interval.
Statistical analysis was performed using
one way ANOVA followed by PLSD Fisher
April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™
CONCLUSION
In this study, the moisturizing properties
of PatcH2O™ have been demonstrated
on human skin explants. PatcH2O™ offers
intense moisturizing to the upper layers
of the epidermis from 30 minutes and
lasting up to 48 hours, and this efficiency
is better than that offered by the placebo.
The results of this study confirm the results
of the previous study which demonstrates
again the benefit of the polymer network
of PatcH2O™.
3% Free moisturizing complex
(Glycerin, urea, trehalose, L-serine)
***
3% PatcH2O™ 129.2%
***
113.7% ***
*** x2 105.9%
95.5% x1.6
x2
x2
59.2% 63.5%
54.1%
41%
Before 30min 4h 24h 48h
testwith a threshold of significance set 5%
(p<0.05).
Bibliographic references
1. ROCHEFORT A, DROUOT P, LEDUC M,
VASSALET R, AGACHE P: A new tech-
nique for evaluation of cosmetics effect
on mechanical properties of Stratum
corneum and epidermis in vitro. Int. J.
Cosm. Sci., vol. 8, 27-36, 1986.
2. OBATA M, TAGAMI H: A rapid in vitro test
to assess skin moisturizers. J. Soc. Cos-
met. Chem., vol. 41, 235-242, 1990.
3. OBATA M, TAGAMI H: Electrical determi-
nation of water content and concentra-
tion profile in simulation model of in vivo
Stratum corneum. J. Invest. Dermatol.,
vol. 92, 854-859, 1989.
15
Measuring dissemination and storage of serine
and urea in the Stratum corneum

Objective
The purpose of this study is to measure the gradual dissemination and storage of the
urea and serine molecules contained in PatcH2O™ at the level of the Stratum corneum
on human skin explants.
In this study the dissemination of free active ingredients was compared with those
encapsulated in PatcH2O ™.

Results &
DISCUSSION
300 µl of PatcH 2O ™ and moisturizing 90
complex were applied to human skin 80 Serine in PatcH2O™
biopsies. The treated skins were 70
then been placed on Franz cells and
60
incubated for 48 hours at 37° C.
serine (µg/cm²)

+282%
50 +324%
40 +313%
Then stripping was performed at 6,
10, 24 and 48 hours after application 30

of the products, which allowed us to 20 Free serine

+353%
quantify the active ingredients stored 10
at the level of the epidermis. 0
6h 10h 24h 48h
Figure 3: Measurement of storage of serine in the Stratum corneum.
From these strippings, serine and urea
**: statistically significant vs. Free serine (p <0.01)
were then extracted and quantified ***: statistically significant vs. Free serine (p <0.001)
using HPLC.

1 - Storage of serine in the

Stratum corneum
Storage of serine in the Stratum
corneum is significantly increased in
skin treated with PatcH 2O ™, and this
at all times (figure 3) .

Materials&Methods Tested products and the quantities of serine and urea

Scientific modeling Skin explants were incubated in the present in the Stratum corneum were
Human skin explants were placed on presence of serine and free urea (final measured using HPLC.
Franz diffusion cells and concentration of 3% and All experiments were performed in
equilibrated for 14 hours 10%) and PatcH 2O™ quintuplicate (n = 5).
with phosphate buffered Skin containing active Statistics
saline (PBS) containing ingredients at the same The results expressed in mg of serine
antibiotics. 300 µl of the Donor Bath concentration. and urea/cm², are given in the form of
products to be tested 37°C
Protocol the mean +/- standard deviation (SD).
were then added to the At various times (6,10, Statistical significance was assessed
"donor" compartments of 24 and 48 hours), the using Student’st testwith a threshold of
the cells, PBS solution skin biopsies were significance set to 5% (p<0.05).
was then added to the Receptor
recovered, stripped
"receptor" compartments. Franz cell (D-Squam®, CuDerm)

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 16

2 - Storage of urea in the
Stratum corneum 300
Urea in PatcH2O™
Storage of urea in the Stratum corneum 250
is significantly increased in skin treated
with PatcH 2O ™, and this at all times 200 +162%

ureau (µg/cm²)
+200%
(figure 4) .
150 +392%
This study demonstrates that 100 Free urea
PatcH 2O ™ significantly increases the +152%
storage of urea and serine in the 50
corneum stratum up to 48 hours after
0
application. 6h 10h 24h 48h
Figure 4: Measurement of urea stored in the Stratum corneum.
In other words, this study shows that **: statistically significant vs. Free urea (p <0.01)
assets collected in the PatcH 2 O ™ ***: statistically significant vs. Free urea (p <0.001)

mesh are released gradually into the

stratum corneum and that their stores
in the upper layers of the epidermis
are consequently increased.
The hydration can be maintained for
up to 48 hours.
CONCLUSION
PatcH2O™ allows maintenance of active
ingredients in the superficial layers of the
skin, leading to long-lasting hydration.

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 17

In vivo evaluation of the effectiveness of PatcH 2O ™ moisturizing

This assessment took place in two separate clinical studies measuring the hydration of the upper
layers of the epidermis: a study at the forearm after a single application and another half-face
study after repeated applications during 21 days and then measuring the residual effect of
hydration after stopping treatment.

Study on the forearm

Objective
The purpose of this study was to evaluate and compare the instant moisturizing
effectiveness of PatcH 2O™ versus a placebo after a single application on the forearm
of healthy subjects using the corneometry technique.

Results
& DISCUSSION 80
+25% Placebo
From 30 min to 48 hours after a single
70 *
% improvement in hydration vs pre-treatment

application, measures of hydration at all 73.2%

3% PatcH2O™
times for the formulation containing 3% 60
PatcH 2O ™ were statistically significant 57.7%
50
compared to baseline.
40
In addition, between 30 minutes and +33% +18%
30 +50%
24 hours, the moisturizing effect of +71% *
* 32.8%
31.7% 27.9%
PatcH 2O ™ was significantly better than 20 * 32.3% 24.4%
that observed for the placebo (p <0.05). 24% 19.5%
At 48 hours after single application on 10 13.8%
the forearm, the moisturizing effect of 0
30 min 4h 8h 24h 48h
PatcH 2O ™ (33%) remained higher than
that observed for the placebo (28%) Figure 5: In vivo study by corneometry of PatcH 2 O™ moisturizing contribution over 48 hours.
(figure 5) . *: statistically significant vs placebo (p<0.05)

CONCLUSION minutes to at least 48 hours after a

This study of 22 women shows that single application to the forearm. This
the formula containing 3% PatcH2O™ efficiency is significantly better than that
is an effective moisturizer from 30 of the placebo by at least 24 hours.

Materials&Methods Protocol Kazaka) in triplicate on each site before

Volunteers
22 women aged between 18 and 65
years old, with a tendency for dry skin
(40 u.a. in corneometry or less) were
recruited to participate in this study,
which took place from 6 to 22 March
2012.
Tested products
In this study, two products were tested:
• A placebo formulation
• A formulation containing 3% PatcH2O™
The complete formulation of these
products is given in Appendix II.
3 days before the application of the application (T0, baseline) and at 30
test products volunteers followed pre- min, 4, 8, 24 and 48 hours after a
treatment by washing each forearm single application.
daily with Ivory Soap ®. Results & Statistics
The unique and standardized The results were expressed as mean
application of products (approximately values and percentages compared to
40μl - (3x3 cm²)) was performed on the baseline.
forearm of volunteers by an experienced
The astatistical significance was
technician in a room with controlled
assessed using Student's t test for
temperature and relative humidity.
paired samples with a significance
Assessments threshold set at 5% (p<)0.05.
Hydration measurements were taken
using a corneometer (Courage &

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 18

Study on the face
Objective
The purpose of this study was to evaluate and compare the long lasting moisturizing
effectiveness of PatcH 2O™ versus a placebo after repeated applications on the faces
of healthy subjects using the corneometry technique.
After 21 days of treatment, measurements were also carried out over a period of
time without applying products to assess the persistence of the moisturizing effect.
In parallel, the volunteers were asked to complete a satisfaction questionnaire to self-
assess the moisturizing qualities of the products tested and their effects on their skin.

Results
& DISCUSSION
The results of this study show that T26, respectively). to baseline (+80% and +38% vs
the placebo formulation presents In contrast, 2 and 5 days after the last baseline at times T23 and T26 time,
no significant moisturizing effect application, the product containing 3% respectively, p<0.05) versus placebo
compared to baseline (+14% and PatcH2O™ shows a significant long- (+66% and +26% respectively,
+12% vs baseline at times T23 and term moisturizing effect both compared p<0.1). (figure 6) .

100 Placebo
90
3% PatcH2O™
% improvement in hydration

80 ^*
70 80%
vs pre-treatment

60
50
40
^*
30
20
38%
10
14% 12%
0
2nd day 5th day
after last application after last application

Figure 6: In vivo study by corneometry of moisturizer contribution of PatcH 2 O™ after 21 days of

treatment.
*: statistically significant vs. T0 (p<0.05)
^: statistically significant vs. placebo (p<0.1)

Materials&Methods of hydration of the cheeks continued not at all hydrated/comfortable 10:

Volunteers
25 women aged between 18 and 65
years old, with a tendency to dry skin
(40 u.a. in corneometry or less) were
recruited to participate in this study,
which took place from 4 to 22 March
2012.
Tested products
In this study, two products were tested:
• A placebo formulation
• A formulation containing 3% PatcH2O™
The complete formulation of these
products is given in Appendix II.
Protocol
In this randomized, double-blind
vs placebo study, products were
applied to half-face by the volunteers
themselves at home twice a day for 21
days. Treatment was stopped from T22
days inclusive, while measurements
to T23 and T26 days to evaluate
persistence.
Volunteers completed the satisfaction
questionnaire on perceived benefits
at T15d and T21d at home. For each
item, the response options were
"Strongly agree", "Agree", "Somewhat
Agree," "Not really in Agreement",
"Disagree", "Not all in Agreement","
No opinion". The number of positive
responses ("Strongly agree", "agree",
"Somewhat agree") and negative ("Not
really in Agreement", "Disagree", "Not
all in Agreement" were grouped and a
statistical analysis of the frequency of
responses was performed (Chi square
test, p <0.05)
Then at T23 and T26 volunteers rated
their perception in terms of hydration
and skin comfort at the test center by
using a rating scale of 10 points (1:
extremely hydrated/comfortable). A
Student test was performed on the
scores to compare results between
PatcH 20™ and the placebo.
Throughout the study period, the
volunteers used a Neutrogena® soap in
place of their usual product.
Assessments
Hydration measurements were taken
with a corneometer (Courage & Kazaka)
in triplicate at each site on the cheeks
(22 of 25 panelists).
Results & Statistics
The results were expressed as mean
values and percentages versus
baseline.
The statistical significance was
assessed using Student’s t test for
paired samples with a significance level
set at 5% (p<0.05).

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 19

After 15 days of treatment, 72% of
volunteers found that their skin "seems
nourished" on the side treated with the
product containing PatcH2O™ against
60% satisfaction for placebo (not
significant, p>0.05).
After 21 days of treatment, the
volunteers mostly acclaimed product
containing PatcH2O™ and the number
of volunteers satisfied with the effect of
PatcH 2O™ was superior to the placebo
for the following items (figure 7) :
• Skin hydrated
• Softer skin
• Skin visibly more elastic
• Skin visibly nourished
2 days after the last application, the
volunteers felt that PatcH 2O ™ left
After 21 days, volunteers consider their skin ...
hydrated
% of volunteers agree
with the statement
*
° 88%
72%
Placebo PatcH2O
Figure 7: Self-assessment by volunteers of moisturizing effect of PatcH 2 O™ after 21 days of treatment.
*: significant percentage with PatcH2O™ (p<0.01)
°: significant percentage with placebo (p 0.05)
their skin more hydrated than the
side treated with placebo and 64% of
them preferred the product containing
PatcH 2O™.
5 days after the last application, the
volunteers felt that PatcH 2O ™ left
their skin more hydrated and more
comfortable than the side treated with
the placebo.
CONCLUSION
After 21 days of treatment, the formula
containing 3% PatcH2O™ showed
an intense moisturizing of the facial
skin, the effect of which significantly
persisted at least 5 days after the
last application compared to T0
and placebo. In contrast, long-term
moisturizing effect from the placebo
soft visibly elastic
*
88%
° °
76% 76%
Placebo PatcH2O Placebo
April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 20
after discontinuation of treatment, has
not been demonstrated.
The effectiveness of PatcH2O™ has
been confirmed by the evaluation of
the volunteers themselves who judged,
in the application of their products, that
the skin treated with PatcH 2O™ was
more hydrated and nourished than with
the placebo.
On most items, the volunteers were
able to perceive a difference in favor
of the product containing PatcH 2O™.
Also note that the beneficial effects of
hydration and comfort were felt up to 5
days after discontinuation of treatment.
visibly
nourished
*
84% *
° 80%
72%
PatcH2O Placebo PatcH2O
 ©BASF BCS

Conclusion

T
o meet global market remains moisturized and reinforced
requirements, to propose an for up to 48 hours. After 3 weeks
innovative break with standard of use, moisturizing is maintained
moisturizing conventions, to prove even up to 5 days after the last
immediate and long term effectiveness application.
in vitro & in vivo such were the
motives of BASF Beauty Creations for PatcH 2 O ™ :
the development of PatcH2O™. a natural micro-reserve of
moisture.
PatcH 2 O ™ , a unique combination
under patent application of
natural polymers combined with a
carefully selected and subtly dosed
moisturizing complex, gently teaches
the skin to appropriate moisture.
After just one application, the skin

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 21

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 22
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The mechanism of water binding in stratum corneum.
Br J Dermatol 80:437–50. 1968
2. Nakagawa N, Sakai S, Matsumoto M, Yamada
K, Nagano M, Yuki T, Sumida Y, Uchiwa H.
Relationship between NMF (lactate and potassium)
content and the physical properties of the stratum
corneum in healthy subjects.
J Invest Dermatol. 122(3):755-63. 2004
2. Caspers PJ, Lucassen GW, Carter EA, Bruining
HA, Puppels GJ.
In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy of
the skin: noninvasive determination of molecular
concentration profiles.
J Invest Dermatol. 116(3):434-42. 2001
3. Sakai S, Yasuda R, Sayo T, Ishikawa O,
Inoue S.
Hyaluronan exists in the normal stratum corneum.
J Invest Dermatol. 114(6):1184-7. 2000.
4. Marty O. Visscher, Gaurav T. Tolia, R. Randall
Wickett, And Steven B. Hoath.
Effect of soaking a nd natural moisturizing factor on
stratum corneum water-handling properties.
J CosmetSc i., 54, 289-300. 2003
5. Wu KS, van Osdol WW, Dauskardt RH.
Mechanical properties of human stratum corneum:
effects of temperature, hydration, and chemical
treatment.
Biomaterials. 27(5):785-95. 2006.
6. Christensen MS, Hargens CW 3rd, Nacht S,
Gans EH.
Viscoelastic properties of intact human skin:
instrumentation, hydration effects, and the
contribution of the stratum corneum.
J Invest Dermatol. 1977;69(3):282-6.
7. Sato J, Yanai M, Hirao T, Denda M.
Water content and thickness of the stratum corneum
contribute to skin surface morphology.
Arch Dermatol Res. 292(8):412-7. 2000.
8. Articus K, Brown CA, Wilhelm KP.
Scale-sensitive fractal analysis using the PatcHwork
method for the assessment of skin roughness.
Skin Res Technol. 7(3):164-7. 2001
9. Kukizo Miyamoto, Yasuko Inoue, Kesyin
Hsueh, Zhiwu Liang, Xianghong Yan, Takashi
Yoshii.
10 Year Longitudinal Japanese Study Tracking Facial
Skin Aging for Wrinkles, Texture, Hyperpigmented
Spots, Radiance and Firmness.
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Session. Seoul, Korea. 2011
10. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Johanna Dresler, Edith
Ribot-Ciscar, Jean-Pierre Roll, and Christine
Poelman.
Changes in Tactile Spatial Discrimination and
Cutaneous Coding Properties by Skin Hydration in
the Elderly.
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Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 62:468–473 (2003)
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Delivery into High-Oxidative-Stress Wounds.
Macromol Biosci. 11(11):1458-66. 2011.
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Osamu lshikawa,* and Shintaro lnoue.
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treatment of facial wrinkles and folds.
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The mechanism of water binding in stratum corneum.
Br J Dermatol. 80(7):437-50. 1968
April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 23
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Preservation of Skin Free-Flap Using Trehalose.
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Effect of trehalose on protein structure.
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Appendix 1- PatcH2O™ formulation data
Annexe1. PatcH2O™ formulation data
Optimum temperature for use: 20-40 °C
0°C 10°C 20°C 30°C 40°C 50°C 60°C 70°C 80°C 90°C 100°C

Optimum usage pH: 4 to 7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Goof average poor

COMPATIBILITY
In the presence of Compatible Not compatible Phenomenon observed Possible Solutions

Nonionic gelling agent

Hydroxyethylcellulose 
Anionic gelling agent
Acrylic polymer 
Xanthane gum 
Cellulose gum 
Carrageenan 
Cationic gelling agent
Quaternized guar  Flocculant
Quaternized cellulose  Flocculant
SURFACTANT
Non-ionic surfactants 
Anionic surfactants  Flocculant
Cationic surfactants  Flocculant
SOLVENTS
Alcohol  Not compatible over 30%
PRESERVATIVES
Non-ionic preservatives 
Anionic preservatives 
Cationic preservatives Not tested
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
When used in the following cosmetic Not compatible
Compatible
compositions this ingredient is (Need for adaptation of formula)
Aqueous tonics 
Hydro-alcoholic tonics  <30% alcohol
Clear Gels 
Opaque Gels 
Clear foaming products  Incompatible with strong anionic surfactants
Opaque foaming products  Incompatible with strong anionic surfactants
Non-ionic O/W Emulsions 
Anionic O/W Emulsions 
Cationic O/W Emulsions 
W/O Emulsions 

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 24

 Appendix 2- Formula used in clinical trials

PRODUCT: Lotion containing PatcH2O™

INCI NOMENCLATURE TOTAL %:

% Weight
Water 70.90
Disodium EDTA 0.050
Xanthan gum 0.200
Steareth-2 2.000
Steareth-2 2.500
Cetearyl Alcohol 1.000
Propylheptyl caprylate 15.000
PatcH 2O ™ 3.000
Sodium hydroxide, water (30%) 0.100
Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Sorbic Acid 1.250
Polyacrylate-X & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60 4.000

100.00

April 9, 2013 PatcH 2O ™ 25

For more contact please contact: Europe Japan & Asia-Pacific Americas
BASF Beauty Creations BASF Japan Ltd. Beauty Creations BASF Corporation
49, avenue Georges Pompidou 21F Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, 50 Health Sciences Drive
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Tel: +33 (0) 1 49 64 53 97 Tel: +81 (0) 3-3796-9214 Tel: +1 631-380-2300
Fax: +33 (0) 1 49 64 53 85 Fax: +81 (0) 3-3796-9299 Fax: +1 631-689-2904

Although all statements and information in this publication are believed to be accurate and reliable, they are presented gratis and for guidance only, and risks and liability for results obtained by use of the products or application of the suggestions
described are assumed by the user. SELLER MAKES NO WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, BY FACT OR LAW, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. Statements or
suggestions concerning possible use of the products are made without representation or warranty that any such use is free of patent infringement and are not recommendations to infringe any patent. The user should not assume that toxicity
data and safety measures are indicated or that other measures may not be required. The claims and supporting data provided in this publication have not been evaluated for compliance with any jurisdiction’s regulatory requirements and the
results reported may not be generally true under other conditions or in other matrices. Users must evaluate what claims and information are appropriate and comply with a jurisdiction’s regulatory requirements. Recipient of this publication
agrees to (i) indemnify and hold harmless each entity of the BASF organization for any and all regulatory action arising from recipient’s use of any claims or information in this publication, including, but not limited to, use in advertising and
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