Sphingoceryl™

Botanical Phytoceramides-6 Complex

Hair Care

Lipids, ceramides and hair
Background
At the level of the scalp, sebum ensures the
lubrication of superficial layers; epidermal lipids
condition its protecting barrier function and
ensure the cohesion of corneocytes.
At the level of hair, sebum makes a lubricating
superficial film; the internal lipids structuring
hair build the intercellular cement, helping the
cohesion of cuticle scales.
Dry hair and scalp
The touch of dry scalp is rough, corneocytes
lack cohesion, get uplifted and desquamate.
They play a part in the formation of dry
dandruff. Dry hair is brittle, dull, forked and its
cuticle scales get uplifted by their free edge.
The origin is a deficiency of sebaceous lipids
and, above all, of structuring lipids, hence of
ceramides/sterols. The causes might be
internal or endogenous:
 Endocrine, genetic, acquired
 Linked to chronological or early ageing,
characterized by a reduction of sebaceous
and epidermal lipids,
or external by various micro attacks:
 Chemical: improper shampoos, perms,
colorings
 Mechanical/physical: brushings, unsuited
dryings
 Environmental: UV radiation, pollution, salt
Brief Overview:
Sphingoceryl™ VEG LS 9948
Sphingoceryl™
Definition / Composition
Sphingoceryl™ is a lipidic active ingredient of
analogous composition to epidermal lipids. The
Phytoceramides-6 are extracted and purified
from sunflower. Nature and functionality of this
balanced association is similar to the
structuring lipids of hair and scalp.
Hair benefits
On impaired, dry scalp, Sphingoceryl™ helps to
 Regulate hydro-retention
 Bio protect, by decreasing the reactivity of
sensitive and irritated scalp
 Repair, by strengthening the barrier function
 Slow down the formation of dandruff, by the
cohesion of corneocytes
On hair, especially damaged, early aged or dry
hair, Sphingoceryl™
 Periodically reloads hair with a homologous
lipidic cement, which decreases during aging
 Protects hair
 Helps the cohesion of cuticle scales, repairs
the micro sheath, causing a conditioning,
film-forming effect
Efficacy
Repair effect on dry hair
Protocol
Hair has gone through an experimental
damage, by washing it with Sodium Lauryl
Sulfate, followed by a delipidation by
INCI: Octyl Dodecanol (and) Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
acetone/ether
(and) Helianthus Annuus (dry hair pattern). Dry pattern
Seed Extract
appears through an uplifting of the ends of
Appearance: Light-brown, semi-fluid, characteristic odor
cuticle scales. Then, hair has been treated with
Preservative: None; anti-oxidant:
a preparation Tocopheryl
containing acetate
2% Sphingoceryl™
and rinsed.
Recommended dosage: 2%
China registration: INCI name is listed in “Inventory of
Existing Cosmetic Ingredient in China 2015” (IECIC 2015).
CAS number is listed (or exempted) in “Inventory of Existing
Chemical Substances in China 2013” (IECSC 2013).
Mode of incorporation: Sphingoceryl™ is dispersed in the
oily phase under stirring, heated to 75-80°C and added into
the oily phase just before emulsification.
 Sphingoceryl™

damage, by washing it with Sodium Lauryl Results: Sensorial evaluation of hair

Sulfate, followed by a delipidation by
Placebo shampoo
acetone/ether (dry hair pattern). Dry pattern
appears through an uplifting of the ends of Mean value of the parameter, 6 hair
tresses ± SEM
cuticle scales. Then, hair has been treated with
a preparation containing 2% Sphingoceryl™ 40 1.2 + 31.7%
and rinsed. (*)
- 6.8%
30 (NS)
Results 0.8
The cuticle scales of hair treated with 2%
Sphingoceryl™ have been less uplifted, and 20
have displayed a better cohesion. Hair has
shown a smoother aspect, covered by a 0.4
homologous protecting film (Fig. C). 10

A B C 0 0
Combing work (Nmm) Maximal force (N)

Before treatment After treatment

Shampoo + 2 % Sphingoceryl™ *
Mean value of the parameter, 6 hair
tresses ± SEM
40 1.2
- 12.9%
- 11.8%
(*)
30 (NS)
A - Control hair. SEM observation (x 400) 0.8
B - Dry hair pattern, damaged by solvents
C - Dried hair, treated by 2% Sphingoceryl™ *, then 20
rinsed
0.4
Conclusion 10
A treatment of dry hair with Sphingoceryl™ at
2% has improved the look of the cuticle.
0 0
Combing work (Nmm) Maximal force (N)

Conditioning effect Before treatment After treatment

Protocol The treatment of hair with a shampoo

The lock was washed with Sodium Lauryl
Sulfate and dried in controlled conditions (RH:
40%). The locks were then treated with a
shampoo containing 2% Sphingoceryl™ or with
a placebo shampoo, and rinsed. The combing
forces were evaluated (3 measurements on
each lock).
containing 2% Sphingoceryl™ has decreased
the work by 11.8% and the maximal force by
12.9%. Sphingoceryl™ shows a good
conditioning effect.
* Test done with 2 % Sphingoceryl™ VEG LS 8712 (preserved;
Sphingoceryl™ VEG LS 9948 does not contain preservatives)
 Sphingoceryl™

Hair structure protective effect Hair color protective effect

Protocol Protocol

Human hair tress Asian hair tresses; washed with 15% Sodium
Lauryl Sulfate and bleached
Washing with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate solution
at 5 % and rinse
Control
hair Hair is permed Coloring (Permanent, red dye)

Reduction Reduction

Colorimetric measurements (L*a*b*)

Fixation Fixation, containing 2%
Sphingoceryl™ *

12 cycles of washing / treatment / ± UVB

Observation by confocal microscopy Not UVB irradiated Not UVB irradiated

UVB irradiated UVB irradiated

Placebo Conditioner containing

Results (SEM observation, x 400) or
conditioner 2% Sphingoceryl™

A B Colorimetric measurements (L*a*b*)

after 4, 8 and 12 cycles

Results
20
Washing, no UVB irradiation

15
-7% -17%
(ns) (*)
Delta L*

10
A - Control hair. -5%
C B – Permed hair (ns)
5
C - Permed hair, 2%
Sphingoceryl™ * in
fixative 0
4 cycles 8 cycles 12 cycles

20
-11%
Washing, UVB irradiation
(p=0,008)
-8%
15
(ns)

Conclusion
Delta L*

-11%
10
Sphingoceryl™ has protected hair against (ns)

surface damages, alterations of the internal

5
structure and has made hair easier to comb.

0
4 cycles 8 cycles 12 cycles

Statistics:
* Test done with 2 % Sphingoceryl™ VEG LS 8712 (preserved; Mean of 10 hair tresses ±SEM
Sphingoceryl™ VEG LS 9948 does not contain preservatives) Placebo Conditioner + Non paired Student t test
(ns): not significant
conditioner 2 % Sphingoceryl™ (*) significant/placebo
 Sphingoceryl™

Hair color protective effect

Results

Placebo conditioner Control

Washing

Washing
+ UVB

Before 4 cycles 8 cycles 12 cycles Without washing /

without UVB

Conditioner with 2% Sphingoceryl™ Control

Washing

Washing
+ UVB

Before 4 cycles 8 cycles 12 cycles Without washing/

without UVB

Conclusion
The intensive hair washing and UVB irradiations have lead to hair color fading. This fading was
expressed by the increase of the L* value (measure of the luminosity of subject) and by the
increase of delta E (global colorimetric deviation). These two parameters increased proportionally
with the number of washing cycles. 2% Sphingoceryl™ in a conditioner assures a good protection
against artificial hair color bleaching due to repeated frequency of shampoo and UV exposure.
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BASF Beauty Care Solutions France SAS All rights reserved.
3, Rue de Seichamps - 54425 Pulnoy (France) ®/™ Registered trademark / trademark of BASF in several countries
Email: bcs-europe@basf.com Edition August 2016
www.carecreations.basf.com

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