everybody i got another budget click type torque wrench here this time sent to the channel

from the company vanpo who manufactures and sells the wrenches on amazon for about 40
u.s including bits a case and a calibration card now i'll talk about my likes and dislikes about
this particular ranch in just a minute but in this video i'm actually going to disassemble this
wrench and show you the internal mechanism for how this type of torque wrench actually
works since most click type torque wrenches operate on a similar principle yes that's right this
is going to be an educational video but before you click away think about all the times that
you've blindly used a torque wrench on your own bike and how much richer your home
wrenching experience will be with the knowledge of exactly what's inside one of these things
now in a previous video i sketched out schematically how one of these wrenches work and it's
fairly straightforward let me just play a brief clip of this explanation it's only about 90 seconds
long the internals of a typical click type torque wrench look like this you have the main socket
attachment point or the head of the wrench and that's part of one long solid beam that
extends well into the outer handle now the outer handle is basically just a metal cylinder that's
attached to the head at this pivot point which you can see on all click type torque wrenches
now at the end of the innerm beam is some type of mechanical clutch and on the other side is
a spring that applies compressive force to the clutch now the force of the spring is adjustable
by the dial at the end of the handle which we're all used to and the more compressed the
spring is the more force it takes to push the inner beam off its perch or in other words to
disengage the clutch and to yield the audible click sound from the torque wrench that we're all
accustomed to but during normal use you'd set the torque wrench to a prescribed torque say
5 newton meters which effectively puts a known and calibrated amount of compressive force
on this inner spring then when you turn the wrench and continue to increase the amount of
applied force the only thing keeping the outer handle from rotating about the inner beam at
the pivot point is the

1:55

clutch force which is modeled here as a

1:57

simple shear force then at some point

1:59

the clutch can no longer withstand that

2:00

twisting force anymore and the inner

2:03

beam slips off his perch and that's when

2:05

you hear and feel the audible click as

2:07

the outer handle finally rotates about

2:09
the pivot point and the inner beam

2:11

strikes the inner wall of the outer

2:12

handle now this is the indication that

2:14

you have applied the proper torque to

2:16

the bolt in question it's pretty good

2:18

right so let's see how that schematic

2:20

actually aligns with what we find inside

2:22

of a real torque wrench okay so it looks

2:24

like this cap on the back just unthreads

2:26

to expose a nut which is presumably how

2:28

the wrench is calibrated now at the

2:30

pivot point you can see that the pin is

2:32

basically held in by a retainer clip

2:34

using a pair of snap ring pliers we can

2:36

remove the clip and slide the pin out

2:38

which allows us to remove the head of

2:40

the wrench and sure enough you can see

2:42

just how long that top section actually

2:44

is now looking at the end of the head

2:46

section you can see a square channel or

2:48

a cutout where presumably the clutch

2:50

mechanism resides so let's see yeah so

2:52

the rest of the clutch just kind of

2:54

slides out of the main body and you can

2:56

see that the actual clutch mechanism is

2:58

basically just this square piece of

3:00

metal which sits between two rectangular

3:02

cutouts now you can imagine when there's

3:04

very little compressive force pushing

3:05

these two ends towards each other it

3:07

wouldn't take very much torque to push

3:09
the block off its axis and click it's

3:12

also clear that if you put a lot of

3:13

compressive force on the block it would

3:15

require much more shear force to slip

3:17

the clutch

3:18

now the thing actually applying a force

3:20

to the clutch is the spring which is

3:22

actually buried down inside of the main

3:24

sleeve it's actually much stiffer than i

3:26

would have imagined but it's here

3:27

nonetheless now at the other end of the

3:29

body you can see where you'd make the

3:30

adjustments this nut here is i believe

3:32

where you'd make the calibration

3:34

adjustments but the whole threaded shaft

3:36

can also rotate and that's what you're

3:37

actually turning when you set the torque

3:39

on the wrench by turning the handle to

3:41

match the desired torque printed on the

3:43

scale this is what increases or

3:44

decreases the compressive force on the

3:46

spring and thereby increases the

3:48

required torque applied by the user to

3:51

slip the clutch or in other words to

3:52

click the wrench and achieve the desired

3:54

torque value pretty interesting i'd say

3:56

and thankfully there were no real

3:58

surprises and what we found in this

4:00

wrench agrees quite well with the

4:01

schematic animation in my previous video

4:03

so hopefully that gives you a better

4:04
sense of what's going inside your click

4:06

type torque wrench and a little side

4:08

note believe it or not this type of

4:10

wrench actually depends on holding the

4:12

tool from the middle of the handle to

4:14

get the most accurate results choking up

4:16

on the handle or using an extension will

4:18

produce a different torque at the socket

4:20

head regardless of whether the wrench

4:22

clicks or not now if you don't believe

4:23

me i've actually worked out the math in

4:25

this other video up here and videos like

4:27

the one put out by park tool down in the

4:28

description also corroborate this result

4:31

through experimental findings as well

4:32

nonetheless this type of torque wrench

4:34

provides at least a reasonably accurate

4:36

and convenient means to apply the proper

4:38

torque to all the many bolts on your

4:40

bike anyways i do also want to mention a

4:42

few things about this particular wrench

4:44

as there are some things that i like and

4:46

some things that i'm not so fond of now

4:48

i certainly like the price tag at 40 us

4:50

however this can be seen to some as a

4:52

drawback as some tend to equate low cost

4:54

with low quality now i also like that it

4:56

includes a case with several commonly

4:58

used hex and torque sizes it also

5:00

includes a quarter to 3 8 adapter as

5:02

well as a quarter inch extension i would

5:04
say that the finish is nicer than many

5:06

other budget wrenches that i've used and

5:08

the red anodized and knurled handle is

5:10

actually a nice touch it does seem

5:12

accurate enough and for the casual

5:14

mechanic who mostly wants to make sure

5:16

they're in the ballpark for a given

5:18

torque spec a wrench like this will be

5:19

totally fine most cycling components

5:21

list a specific torque value but they

5:23

don't really expect the user to match

5:25

that spec exactly if that were the case

5:27

bike mechanics would be paid a lot more

5:29

and home mechanics wouldn't do nearly as

5:31

much home wrenching i guess what i'm

5:33

trying to say is that five and a quarter

5:34

newton meters applied to a five newton

5:36

meter seat post spec or equivalently

5:38

five percent error isn't really going to

5:40

do any harm oof i feel like i'm stirring

5:42

the pot right now i guess what i would

5:43

say is just try to be reasonable in the

5:45

comments if you feel inclined to chime

5:47

in now i'm not saying it's okay to

5:48

ignore torque specs altogether i'm just

5:50

saying if torque specs on bikes were as

5:52

critical as some make it out to be we'd

5:54

see a lot more cracked carbon parts or

5:56

slipping seat posts and handlebars

5:58

anyways one of the things that i'm not

6:00

super fond of is the scale now there is

6:02
a scale for both inch pounds and newton

6:04

meters but neither one seems to be very

6:06

intuitive and neither one has integer

6:08

hash marks now whereas my park tw 5.2

6:12

has a clear viewing window and integer

6:14

marks that are in a native newton-meter

6:15

scale the vanpo has rather odd intervals

6:18

and it's never quite clear exactly what

6:20

my torque setting is now certainly with

6:22

practice i could get used to the scale

6:24

but for a bike specific tool like this

6:26

one claims to be it seems like a native

6:29

newton meter scale should be a

6:30

prerequisite not a huge deal though and

6:32

again for forty dollars u.s it's pretty

6:34

hard to beat okay well hopefully you got

6:36

something out of this video as an

6:37

engineer myself i always like to

6:39

understand the fundamental concept

6:41

behind any given mechanism or process

6:44

and taking stuff apart is almost always

6:46

a great way to learn how stuff works

6:47

alright so that's gonna do it for this

6:48

one thanks for watching and thanks again

6:50

for subscribing to the channel if you

6:51

haven't already i'll see you next time

las partes internas de una llave dinamométrica de tipo clic típica se ven así. tiene el punto de
conexión del casquillo principal o la cabeza de la llave y eso es parte de una viga larga y sólida
que se extiende bien dentro del mango exterior. Ahora el mango exterior es básicamente solo
un cilindro de metal que está unido a la cabeza en este punto de pivote que se puede ver. en
todas las llaves dinamométricas de tipo clic ahora al final de la viga interna hay algún tipo de
embrague mecánico y en el otro lado hay un resorte que aplica fuerza de compresión al
embrague ahora la fuerza del resorte es ajustable mediante el dial al final de el mango al que
todos estamos acostumbrados y cuanto más comprimido está el resorte, más fuerza se
necesita para empujar la viga interior fuera de su posición o, en otras palabras, para
desenganchar el embrague y producir el sonido de clic audible de la llave dinamométrica que
usamos. Estamos todos acostumbrados, pero durante el uso normal, ajustaría la llave
dinamométrica a un par prescrito, digamos 5 newton metros, lo que efectivamente aplica una
cantidad conocida y calibrada de fuerza de compresión en este resorte interno y luego, cuando
gira la llave y continúa aumentando la cantidad de fuerza aplicada, lo único que impide que el
mango exterior gire alrededor de la viga interior en el punto de pivote es el