Workshop Manual Old Model Tharcrde

REPAIR MANUAL
Part 1 of 2
MAN-00190
RELEASED BY –
TECHNICAL PUBLICATION CELL
MAHINDRA & MAHINDRA LTD.
www.teknetmahindra.com Rev1 – MAY 2012
ALL INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS MANUAL IS MOST UP-TO-DATE AT THE TIME OF

PUBLICATION. HOWEVER, SPECIFICATIONS AND PROCEDURES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT
NOTICE. THIS MANUAL IS STRICTLY MEANT FOR RESTRICTED INTERNAL CIRCULATION WITHIN M&M
AUTHORIZED DEALER SERVICE CENTERS.
© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced or copied, in whole or in part,
without the written permission of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
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© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced or copied, in whole or in part,
without the written permission of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.

Repair Manual MAN-00190
THAR CRDe BS-IV MAY 2012/Rev 1
About the Repair Manual
This Repair Manual is published for the information and guidance of the service technician of
authorized MAHINDRA & MAHINDRA dealers to help them provide efficient and correct
service and maintenance on Mahindra vehicle. It contain information on the operation and
maintenance of the THAR – CRDe AC (BS-III & BS-IV) as well as descriptions of the major
units and their functions in relation to the other components of the System.
To ensure customer satisfaction with Mahindra products, proper service and maintenance by
Mahindra Dealer Technicians is essential. Technician should know and understand the
content of this manual before starting actual work on the vehicle. The copy of this manual
should be kept in a handy place on the shopfloor for quick and easy reference.
This manual includes special notes, important points, service data, precautions that are
needed for the maintenance, adjustments, service, removal and installation of Engine and
other aggregate components.
All information, illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the
latest product information available at the time of publication. Dealers will be provided
Technical Service Bulletins or Supplementary Notes in case modifications done in future.
All rights are reserved to make changes at any time without prior notice.
Pictures, photographs used in this manual are illustrations only and may pertain to some
variation than actual in the vehicle.
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the
manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present
document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra
& Mahindra Ltd., will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Page 1
Table of Content
• How to use this manual……………………………………………………………………….

• Safety Instructions……………………………………………………………………………….
• Vehicle Specification…………………………………………………………….…………….
• Vehicle Maintenance……………………….…………………………………….……………
• Engine……………………………………………………………....................……………
• Air Intake System……………………………………………………………………..………………….
• Cooling System………………………………………………………………………….………………….
• Fuel System…….………………………………………………………………………..………………….
• Emission Control System………………………………………………………….………………….
• Clutch……………………………………………….……………...................……………
• Transmission…………………………………………………………………………………………
• Transfer Case……………………………………………………………………………………….
Propeller Shaft…………………………………………………………………….. …………..
Front Axle…………………………………………………………………………………………….
Rear Axle……………..………………………………………………………………………………
Steering System…………………………………………………………………….…………….
Front Suspension…………………………………………………………………………………
Rear Suspension……………………………………………………………………..……………
Brakes……………………………………………………………………………………..……………
Wheels and Tyres…………………………………………………………………..……………
Chassis…………………………………………………………………………………….……………
Appendices…………………………………………………………………………………………..
Page 2
How to use this manual
There is table of contents for the whole manual on the second page of this manual, where the
required section can be easily found. Also, there is content on the first page of each section, where
the main objects in that section are listed. Each section is further divided in to sub-sections –
• Description section gives an overview of the functioning of the system.

• Specification section provides information on the dimensions and type of system.
• Construction, Operation and Identification section gives details of construction of System, its
operation and serial number identification.
• Care of the system details the maintenance and adjustments, if any, to be carried out on the
system to keep it functioning at its best performance level.
• Trouble shooting section details a generic trouble shooting for major problems.
• In-car repair outlines the procedure to carryout minor repairs/adjustments without removing the
aggregate from the vehicle.
• Dismantling/overhauling section covers the detailed process and procedures to be followed,
while repairing the system. This is generally carried out after removing the aggregate/system from
the vehicle.
• Assembly section covers the detailed process and procedures to be followed, while repairing the
system.
• Tightening torques is the specified torque values for all crucial fasteners in the Component/
vehicle system.
• Repair & maintenance data provides information on the dimensions of a new part as well as how
much wear can be tolerated on a specific part, respectively.
• Mahindra Special Tools (MST) lists out the special tools should be used for the service and repair
work described in that section.
• Appendices are provided in the last section of this manual. It includes of Abbreviations, measuring
units, Lubrication chart, Greasing points, Do’s & Don’ts, Vehicle preservation notes and List of
MST’s applicable to this model.
The proper performance of service is essential for both the safety of the technician and the efficient
functioning of the system. The service methods in this repair manual are described in such a manner
that the service may be performed safely and accurately. Service varies with the procedures used, the
skills of the technician and the tools & Parts available. Accordingly, anyone using service procedures,
tools or parts which are not specifically recommended by MAHINDRA & MAHINDRA must first
completely satisfies himself that neither his safety nor the vehicle’s safety will be jeopardized by the
service method selected.
In spite of our best efforts to make the manual error-free, a few errors could have inadvertently
crept in. If you identify errors, functional or typographical, please inform your TEKline or
pillay.ajay@mahindra.com or nirhali.rajesh@mahindra.com Suggestions to improve the manual
and make it more user-friendly are also welcome.
Page 3
Safety Instructions
1. General Precautions –
• Make sure that vehicle is in neutral, parking brakes is ‘ON’ and wheels are blocked before
doing any work or diagnostic procedure on the engine or vehicle.
• When it is necessary to do service work with the engine running, make sure that the parking
brake is set fully and the transmission is in Neutral. Keep hands, hair, clothing, tools, etc. away
from the fan and belts when the engine is running.
• Make sure the work area is ventilated and well lit. When it is necessary to run the engine
indoors, make sure that the exhaust gas is forced to stream outdoors.
• Do not perform service work in areas where combustible materials can come in contact with a
hot exhaust system. When working with toxic or flammable materials, make sure that the area
you work in is well-ventilated.
• Make sure that the Transmission, Transfer Case, Oil/ Exhaust system has cooled down
sufficiently before attempting to remove any components, for your safety.
• Use correct lifting devices. Whenever raising a vehicle for service, be sure to follow the
instructions.
• Keep work area clean, dry and well organized.
• Keep tools and parts off the floor or in a trolley.
• Use safety blocks and stands.
• Wear proper safety equipment as recommended and authorized for the job. Wear proper
hearing protection.
• Wear protective safety glasses/ goggles or face shields. Wear safety shoes.
• Wear correct work clothing, do not wear wrist watches, jewelry, rings, loose or hanging
apparel, such as ties, torn clothing, unzipped jackets that can catch on moving parts.
• New and used engine oil, Brake or Clutch oil, Radiator Coolant, Transmission and Differential
oils can be hazardous. Continuous contact with used engine oil has been found to cause [skin]
diseases. Brief contact with used oil may irritate skin. To minimize your exposure to used
engine oil, wear a long-sleeve shirt and moisture-proof gloves (such as dish washing gloves)
when changing engine oil. If engine oil contacts your skin, wash thoroughly with soap and
water.
• Recycle or properly dispose the used Coolant, oil and filters.
• Make sure that charged fire extinguishers are available in the workshop.
• Make sure a first Aid Kit is available in workshop.
2. Vehicle Safety –
• Before starting any service work, cover fenders, seats and any other parts that are likely to get
scratched or stained during servicing. Also, be aware that what you wear (e.g. but-tons,
buckles) may cause damage to the vehicle’s finish.
Page 4
• When servicing an electrical part that does not require use of battery power, disconnect the
negative cable of the battery.
• When removing the battery, be sure to disconnect the negative cable first and then the
positive cable. When reconnecting the battery, connect the positive cable first and then the
negative cable, and replace the terminal cover.
• Whenever you use oil seals, gaskets, packing, O-rings, locking washers, split pins, self-locking
nuts, and certain other parts as specified, be sure to use new ones. Also, before installing new
gaskets, packing, etc., be sure to remove any residual material from the mating surfaces.
• Make sure that all components are cleaned properly before reassembling. When use of a
certain type of lubricant, bond or sealant is specified, be sure to use the specified and
recommended type only.
• Safety Terms -
Three terms are used in this manual to stress Technician/ workman safety, safe and sound operation
of the vehicle and its aggregates: Warning, Caution and Note.
Term Symbol Denotation
WARNING Hazard and unsafe practices that can cause injury or death.
CAUTION
Practices that can cause damage to the Transfer Case or vehicle.
Procedure that must be followed for correct, efficient Transfer
NOTE NOTE
Case operation.
• Legend -
Symbol Denotation
Place
Locate
Move/ Fit
Turn Clockwise
Turn anti-clockwise
Page 5
Vehicle Specification
• Refer following chart for THAR CRDe (BS-III & BS-IV) vehicle general specifications data –
PARAMETER MM 540 THAR CRDe

Vehicle Dimensions :
Wheel base, mm 2430
Overall width, mm 1710
Overall length, mm 3920
Overall height, mm 1930
Front track, mm 1445
Rear track, mm 1346
Min. ground clearance, mm 200
Vehicle Weights :
Maximum GVW, kg (for rigid vehicles) 2200
Maximum GCW, kg
N. A.
(for articulated / combination vehicles)
Maximum FAW, kg 1100
Maximum RAW, kg 1850
Kerb weight with 90% fue l(with spare wheel ,
1670
tools, etc.), kg
Maximum gradeability in 1st gear 30º
Seating :
Seating capacity D+6
Transmission :
Type (Manual/Automatic/semi-automatic) Manual
Clutch Type (wet/Dry/Single plate/ Multiplate
Dry - Single Plate
/ Hydraulic)
Gear box 5-Speed
Type Manual, All Gear Synchromesh
Model name (if any). NGT530R
Gear shifting control system (Sketch showing

Floor Shift,
gear shifting arrangement)
refer illustration
No. of gears 5-Forward, 1-Reverse

Sub transmission
Type Transfer case
Control system Shift Lever (4WD)
Gear ratio
High 1.00 : 1
Low 2.48 : 1
Final Drive Front / Rear / Both Rear (2WD)/ Both (4WD)
Page 6
Type Hypoid
Reduction ratio 4.3 : 1
Differential type Hypoid
Final Drive ratio 4.3 : 1 (2WD) & 10.66 : 1 (4WD)
Gear ratio Gear box ratio Overall ratio
1st 3.78 : 1 16.25
2nd 2.09 : 1 8.98
3rd 1.38 : 1 5.93
4th 1.00 : 1 4.30
5th 0.79 : 1 3.39
Reverse 3.52 : 1 15.13
Number of axles :
Steered / Non Steered Steered: Front, Non Steered: Rear
Driven Both
Non-driven N. A.
Front axle :
Type Full floating hypoid type
12' to 18' at wheel rim per wheel, Total Toe in 1 to 3
Toe-in/ Toe out mm
mm
Camber angle 0'-1º50' (Difference between LH and RH <20')
Caster angle 2.75+/- 1º (Difference between LH and RH <1º)
King pin angle 10.6 ± 1.0°
Rear axle :
Type ( Single / Tandem / Tridem / Multi ) Semi-floating hypoid type
Steering system :
Type (Manual / Power assisted – Hydraulic /
Hydraulic power assisted
Power assisted – Electric / Other)
Steering wheel
Position(center/offset) Offset
Outside dia mm 406
Number of spokes. 3
Steering column Clamped on suspended pedal and on body
Make Sona Koyo steering system
Type / Model RHD
Intermediate shaft
Make Sona Koyo steering system
Type / Model Intermediate shaft with two UJ connections
Maximum No. of rotation of steering wheel
3.5
from lock to lock
Mounting arrangement of Steering column Clamped on suspended pedal and on body
Offset of the steering column with respect to
70.8 mm
the seat
Steering Gear
Type of steering gear (Re-circulating ball /
Rack and pinion, hydraulic power steering
Worm & Roller / Rack & Pinion / Others)
Make M/s Rane Madras Ltd.
Page 7
Steering gear ratio 20:1

Wheel lock angle(deg) Inner Outer
Left 32 30
Right 32 30
Power Assistance
Type of assistance Hydraulic
Make Sona Koyo Strg. Systems Ltd.
Model RHD
Oil Specification Caltex ATF Texamatic 1278 Dexron – III,
Shell Donax TG Dexron-III
Oil capacity (l) 1 Lit.
Pressure setting (kg/cm2 / bar / kPa) 75 bar
Min turning circle diameter mm 11500
Min. turning circle clearance diameter, mm 11800
Clearance:
Minimum road clearance 200 mm
Approach angle 46 (Unladen)
Departure angle 30 (Unladen)
Ramp-over angle 15 (Unladen)
Suspension :
Type and description (Leaf / Coil / Air / Semi-
pneumatic / Torsion bar)
Front IFS with Torsion bar
Rear Leaf Spring
Type of spring Semi elliptical Leaf Spring
Stack height, at center Rear: 48 mm
Width at the center point / stack point Rear: 63.5 mm
Flat length Rear: 1219 ±3 mm
Free camber Rear: 115 ±5 mm
No. of leaves Left Right
No. of leaves 6 6
No. of spacers 4 4
Suspension- Shock absorber :
Type and Number
Front Hydraulic Double Acting, Telescopic, 2 Nos.
Rear Hydraulic Double Acting, Telescopic, 2 Nos.
Suspension- Stabilizer :
Front / Rear Provided/ N.A.
Chassis frame :
Ladder type with steel side member,
Type Five intermediate cross-members,
Front and Rear Bumper Bars
Electrical system :
System voltage, V 12 V
Battery rating, Ah 70 Ah
Wiper motor Rack & Pinion Type, Two Speed
Page 8
Wiping system (Brief description) Wiper motor with 2 nos. of positive loading type wipers
Speedometer :
Model and type Analog
Range 0 - 160 km/h
Major marking 20 km/h
Minor marking 5 km/h
Speedometer ratio 0.545
Ratio of Speedo drive 5/ 17
Odometer :
Make and Country of origin (if imported) M/s. Premier Instruments (PRICOL)
Type Incorporated in speedometer
Fuel tank :
Material / Nominal thickness mm EDD steel / 0.75 THK EDD steel
Capacity, Liters. 60
Brake :
Dual hydraulic circuit with tandem master cylinder with
Service brake (Brief description)
vacuum assisted servo
Auto Slack Adjuster Fitted ( Yes / No /
Yes
Optional )
ABS Fitted (Yes / No / Optional ) No
Front (Disc / Drum) 226 mm dia Disc
Rear (Disc / Drum) 282 (HNSS) dia Drum
Total braking area (Front/Rear), cm² 194 / 522
Parking brake Mechanical, Operating on rear wheels
Secondary brake Unfailed circuit of service brakes
Wheel rim :
Wheel rim Size Front/ Rear 6.5J X 16 (For 235/70 R16)
Make M/s. Wheels India or M/s. Synergies Castings
Pitch circle dia of mounting bolts mm 160 mm
Number of mounting bolts 5
Material (Steel/ Aluminum alloy etc.) Steel (Alloy optional)
Tyres :
Tyre size (Front/ Rear & Spare) 235/70 R16
Tyre size designation including ply rating /
M/s. Bridgestone
load index / speed rating
No. and arrangement of wheels (4 + 1 Spare wheel)
Front / Rear/ Spare wheel 2 + 2/ 1
Tyre type (Radial/cross ply) (with Tube / Tube Type : Radial, Tubeless
less), size & ply rating or Speed & Load rating Size : 235/70R16; Ply Rating- 5
LOAD INDEX / SPEED RATING 105/ S
Dynamic rolling radius, mm, 356
Inflation pressure – Unladen in kg/cm2 / kPa
Front/ Rear 2.4/ 2.4
Inflation pressure – Laden in kg/cm2 / kPa
Front/ Rear 2.4/ 2.4
Page 9
Vehicle Maintenance
• Refer following chart for THAR CRDe (BS-III & BS-IV) vehicle maintenance schedule –
Page 10
Engine (2.6L NEF CRDe)
Table of Content
Description…………………………….................................................………….……………
Trouble Shooting……………………................................................…………..……………
Care of the System.............................................................................................
In Car Repairs.....................................................................................................
Working Principle of Engine Sub Systems..........................................................
Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine..........................................................
Working Principle, Dismantling & Overhauling of the Turbocharger................
Technical Specification......................................................................................
Lubricants & Sealants........................................................................................
Torque Specification..........................................................................................
List of the MST....................................................................................................
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the
manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part or whole of the present
document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of
Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd., will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Page 11
Description
The 2.6-liter Turbocharged and intercooled common rail direct injected diesel engine with a bore 94
mm and stroke of 90 mm develop 113 BHP at 3800 RPM and a torque of 260 Nm at 1800 RPM.
A waste gated turbocharger controls the boost to 2.2 bar. The compressed air is cooled by the charge
intercooler which is mounted upstream of the turbocharger. The cooled air enters the inlet manifold’s
plenum and it enters the Cast iron cylinder head through the inlet valves having a 45-degree angle. A
boost pressure sensor is incorporated in the system to measure the air boost.
Boost Pressure
Sensor
The piston features re-entrant type combustion chamber and having ferrous ring insert in the Top ring
groove. A 3-ring pack is used. The top ring is asymmetrical barrel face and with CKS coating and
keystone shape. The 2nd ring is taper faced. The 3rd is Conformable Oil Ring. The piston is having an
offset of 0.5 mm.
The forged connecting rod is connected to induction-hardened crankshaft. The small end of the
connecting rod is trapezoidal shaped to reduce the mass as well as to ensure higher loading. The
crankshaft is induction hardened with the filets hardened & ground. The flywheel has a shrunk fit ring
gear and also a ball bearing to act as pilot for the gearbox input shaft. The front end is having a rubber
moulded dampener pulley
The high pressure pump & camshaft are chain driven.
Page 12
Trouble Shooting
Refer to the Service diagnosis chart. Additional tests & diagnostic procedures may be necessary for
specific engine complaints that can not be isolated using only the diagnostic chart.
Information concerning the additional checks is provided within the following diagnostic.
Cylinder compression pressure Test

The results of the cylinder compression test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Before carrying out the compression test, ensure that the battery is in good working condition.
Otherwise the indicated pressures may not be valid for diagnostic purpose.
 Remove all the injectors.

 Fit the dummy injector (MST Tool) and connect it with the compression gauge.
 Disconnect the engine RPM sensor or phase sensor connector so that the engine does not start.
 Crank the engine.
 Note the compression value should be 30 bars.
 Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.
 Refer to the Specification for the value.
Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis

A leaking engine cylinder head gasket usually results in loss of power, loss of coolant and engine
misfiring, overheating and poor fuel economy.
An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:
A. Between adjacent cylinders

Or
B. Between a cylinder and adjacent water jacket.
Cylinder head gasket failure between cylinders is indicated by

Loss of power and /or engine misfiring.
Cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and coolant passage results in coolant foaming or
overheating and loss of coolant indicate an engine water jackets.
Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test

Check the cylinder compression pressure as already explained. Leakage between cylinders will be
result in drop of compression pressure by nearly 50 to 70% in the affected cylinders.
Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test

• Remove the radiator cap.
• Warm up the engine and allow it to warm up until the engine thermostat opens.
• If large combustion /combustion pressure leak exist, bubbles will be visible in coolant.
• If bubbles are not visible, install a radiator pressure tester and pressurize the cooling circuit. If a
cylinder is leaking combustion pressure into the water jackets then the tester’s needle will pulsate
with every combustion stroke of the cylinder.
 Follow the chart below for various problem, causes and their remedies -
Page 13
Symptom Causes Remedial action

Engine will not start & 1. Air intake obstructed  Replace the element.
emit black smoke  Check for free operation of
Turbocharger.
2. Defective injectors  Replace
3. Lack of compression.  Check compression pressure.- if
low check for valve seat ,rings &
liner wear
4. Cylinder head gasket failure  Replace the cyl. head gasket.
5. Engine timing- Valve  Check timing chain.
6. CR system  Refer diagnostic manual.
Noisy engine & black 1. Faulty injectors.  Replace injectors
smoke. 2. Loose main bearings  Tighten the main bearings.
3. Broken parts  Inspect & replace the broken parts.
4. Rockers loose or out of  Check & Adjust tappet clearance.
adjustment.
Engine does not give 1. Air intake restricted.  Replace air cleaner element if
full power. required.
2. Clogged fuel filter.  Replace filter.
3. Incorrect tappet clearance  Adjust tappets in cold condition.
4. Defective injectors.  Replace
5. Air leaks in pressure line after  Plug the leaks, replace hose or clip
turbocharger( Turbo to if required.
intercooler, intercooler &
intercooler to intake manifold)
6. Air leak in pipe – manifold  Replace the hose or tighten
7. Fuel return pipe to tank  Locate the kink/block in return pipe
blocked. and rectify.
8. Boost pressure pipe/hose  Check the pipe, washer & rectify.
assembly damaged.
9. Valve leak  Check the compression, relap if
required.
10. Turbocharger damaged.  Get the Turbocharger repaired at
authorized TEL dealer.
11. Gas leaks between exhaust  Replace gaskets.
manifold & cylinder head.
12. Restricted exhaust system.  Replace Turbocharger
13. Exhaust gas leak between  Tighten the TC mounting bolts.
turbo & manifold. Replace gasket if required.
14. Gas leak between EGR pipe  Remove the restriction in exhaust
joints system.
15. EGR pipe leak.  Change the gasket or the hose.
16. Fuels supply line kink creating  Replace the pipe.
restriction.  Remove the restriction.
17. EGR valve improper  Check the EGR using the blink
functioning. codes. Proceed appropriately.
18. Compression leak.  Check compression.
19. Jammed piston rings  Replace piston rings.
20. Viscous fan continuously  Check the VFD as outlined in
engaged. cooling. Replace if required.
21. Check CR system  Refer the diagnostic manual
Page 14
Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head gasket defective.  Replace the cylinder head gasket.
smoke ( White/ Grey) 2. Worn out or damaged valve  Lap the valve seats or regrind.
seats.
3. Leaking injector holder  Tighten the injector holder.
Black smoke. 1. Air intake restricted.  Check for hoses, replace air cleaner
element.
2. Incorrect tappet setting.  Adjust tappets.
3. Defective injectors  Check injectors.
4. Air leaks.  Check for leaks between
Turbocharger to intercooler,
intercooler & intercooler to inlet
manifold.
5. EGR valve stuck open  Check the EGR valve
6. Restricted exhaust system.  Remove restriction or replace
parts.
7. Gas leak between exhaust  Replace manifold gasket or parts.
manifold & cylinder head.
8. Worn out rings, liners & valve.  Overhaul engine.
Excessive oil 1. Cracked vacuum line hoses.  Check the vacuum line from the
consumption alternator to the EGR valve - check
for leaks, crack. Replace cracked
hoses.
2. Clogged air filter element.  Replace element.
3. Restriction in air intake to  Locate & remove restriction.
compressor duct.
4. Restrictions in turbocharger oil  Remove the restriction in the
drain line. drainpipe.
5. Restriction in crankcase  Check the crankcase ventilation &
breather. rectify.
6. Damaged oil separator  Replace the oil separator
7. Turbocharger damaged.  Change oil, filter, service the
Turbocharger & use recommended
oils & drain intervals. Follow the
recommended procedure while
shutting down.
 Repair Turbocharger.
8. Worn out rings, liners, and  Overhaul engine.
valves.
9. External oil leaks  Stop the external oil leakages.
10. Leakages through inlet  Change the vacuum hoses.
manifold mounting face  Change the manifold gasket or
allowing dust entry. replace the manifold.
11. Bend/kink in any of the oil  Remove the bend or kinks.
return pipe’s/vacuum hoses.
12. Defective vacuum pump.  Replace the vacuum pump.
Blue smoke. 1. Clogged air filter element.  Replace element.
2. Restriction in air intake to  Locate & remove restriction.
compressor duct.
3. Air leak between the  Locate the leaks, change hose or
Turbocharger to intake clamp if required.
manifold.
4. Excess oil.  Correct the oil level.
5. Wear in valve seal.  Check the valve stem seals, replace
Page 15
if required.
6. Wear in piston rings & liner.  Check the compression pressure,
replace rings & liners.
7. TC oil seal leaks  Check the Turbocharger if defective
get it attended.
White smoke. 1. Improper timing  Check sprockets & chain for wear.
Rectify
2. Defective cylinder head gasket.  Replace the cylinder head gasket.
3. Restriction in fuel supply  Remove the restrictions.
Starter will not work 1. Electrical complaints.  Refer the electrical section.
or only cranks slightly 2. Check water level.  If water level reduced drastically
then check for hydrostatic lock.
3. Hydrostatic lock  Remove the water in the cylinder
and find the cause for water entry.
Starter will not crank 1. Weak battery.  Check the battery specific gravity.
the engine. 2. Corroded or loose battery  Clean & tighten battery
connection connections.
3. Faulty starter.  Repair starter.
4. Improper earthing.  Rectify earthing.
Noisy valves 1. Tappets loose.  Set the tappet clearances.
2. Rocker arms touching the  Install the correct rocker cover
rocker cover. gasket/ change the rocker cover if
problem persist.
3. Thin or diluted oil.  Change oil.
4. Low oil pressure.  Check the oil level.
5. Bent push rods.  Install new push rods.
6. Worn rocker arms.  Replace the rocker arms.
7. Worn valve guides.  Replace the valve guides.
8. Excessive runout of valve seats  Grind valve seats and valves.
9. Oil thickening  Replace oil & find the reasons of
thickening, rectify.
Oil pressure drop 1. Low oil level.  Check engine oil level.
2. Defective oil pressure sensor.  Install new sensor.
3. Clogged oil filter.  Replace filter.
4. Clogged oil cooler/strainer  Clean the oil cooler/ strainer.
5. Pressure relief valve in oil filter  Clean the valve & bore and
bracket stuck. assemble.
6. Oil leaks- internal  Check leak at the block & front
cover or any of the MOG plugs
7. Worn parts in oil pump.  Replace the worn parts or pump.
8. Excessive oil clearances  Check oil clearances.
9. Thin or diluted oil.  Change oil to correct viscosity.
10. Excessive bearing clearance.  Remove the valve, inspect, clean &
refit.
11. Oil pump relief valve stuck.  Remove sump, inspect the parts &
replace.
12. Pump cover warped/ cracked  Install new pump.
Oil leaks 1. Worn oil seals  Replace seals.
2. Misaligned or deteriorated  Replace gasket.
gaskets.
3. Loose fastener, broken or  Tighten fastener
porous metal parts  Repair or replace.
Page 16
Care of the System
The performance of the engine is dependent on ensuring that the following maintenance is carried
out as per the schedule without fail.
Accessory Belt : To be checked and adjusted if required at every 10,000 Kms. To be replaced at every
80,000 Kms.
Air cleaner: The element should be replaced at every 40,000 Kms or when red indicator band shows.
For the detailed procedure, refer to the Air Intake System.
Oil:. The oil should conform to CH4 grade and with a viscosity Index of 15W40. It should be kept in
mind that in the turbocharger engine the oil has to have do an additional load of lubricating and
cooling the Turbocharger shaft If any oil of lower specification is used it can break down under the
high thermal load at the turbine end of the shaft especially during the hot shutdown.
This oil grade also ensures that the oil consumption is within the desire limits. Use Maximile Supreme
Grade of oils. The Oil change intervals are first at 5000 Kms. & then subsequently every 15000 Kms.
Cooling system: Ensure that no leakages are present. For details of the coolant and ratio refer the
Cooling System.
Turbocharger: The engine is having an exhaust gas driven turbocharger. The turbocharger shaft speed
varies from about 40, 000 when engine is idling to about 1,70,000 when the engine is having the full
rated RPM.
EGR: On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points check have to done during
scheduled maintenance.
• Check for any exhaust gas leakage through sealing faces, EGR pipe. Formation of any black
soot indicates leakage.
• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.
• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.
Tappet setting has to be carried out every 20000 Kms.
While doing the tappet clearance, in case of vehicle fitted with EGR system ensure that the EGR pipe is
not bent or overstress the pipes, elbow.
If the pipes are removed then it is essential that while fitting back; new gaskets be used. Do not open
the pipe from one end only; it will cause the pipe to twist. If the EGR pipe has to be removed, then
open from both the ends.
Page 17
In Car Repairs
The in car repairs which can be carried out are:
• Tappet setting
• Accessory Belt tension adjustment
• Accessory belt removal & Refitment
• VFD Assembly with Fan Blade removal
• High Pressure pump Removal
• Oil filter changing
• Turbocharger removal & Refitment
• Cylinder head gasket Replacement
Page 18
Tappet setting –
1. Remove the oil filler cap.
2. Remove the oil separator & pipe from the ladder frame /sump to the rocker cover.
3. Remove the tappet cover mounting Allen screws along with the rubber washer.
4. Remove the tappet cover.
5. Remove NVH Cover & then Rocker Arm Cover with Gasket
6. Adjust the tappet clearance as per the following procedure …
• Bring no.1 piston at TDC. Ensure no 4 cylinder valve at dancing / rocking position.
• Adjust the tappet clearance of 1st cylinder both Inlet & Exhaust valves as per specifications.
• Turn the engine 1800 further in the direction of engine rotation. Adjust tappet of 3rd cylinder
valves as per specifications.
• Turn the engine 1800 further in the direction of engine rotation. Adjust tappet of 4th cylinder
• Turn the engine 1800 further in the direction of engine rotation. Adjust tappet of 2nd cylinder
Page 19
Accessory Belt tension Adjustment –
1. Check the Belt Tension…

- Turn on the Belt Tension Gauge, select reading mode in Hertz (Hz) & hold the probe
approximately 5mm distance in Front of the belt ( CAUTION: Do not touch the probe to the
belt, this can damage the probe!) as shown in the illustration above by X.
- Tap on the belt near the probe.
- Note the reading. If the reading is within 125 TO 145, this should be OK.
- If the reading is less than 125 Hz then it needs adjustment.
2. Adjust the belt tension ….

2.A - Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut.
2.B – Tighten the Belt Tensioning Bolt.
2.C - Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut
3. Repeat the procedure as per the Step-1

- If the belt tension value should be 140+5 Hz.
If the value is less than 140+5 Hz, Repeat the Steps 2 & 3.
Page 20
Accessory belt Remove & Refit –
1. Loosen the Tensioner bolt to relieve the tension.

2. Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Nut. Take out the pulley assembly with Dust Shield, washer &
take the belt out.
3. Take the belt out.
4. Put the new belt in place & fit the Tensioner Pulley Assembly along with dust shield & washer
on the bracket, hand tighten the nut.
Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Nut with torque of 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm.
5. Tighten the Tensioner Bolt so as to get the specified belt tension; follow the accessory belt
tension check procedure for checking / adjusting the belt tension to the installation tension --
170 ± 2 Hz.
6. Run the engine for 5 minutes & confirm the stabilized tension is at 140 to 145 Hz.
Fan Blade & Viscous Fan Drive Removal & Assembly –
Caution: Do not remove the accessory belt before

removing the nut.
Loosen the water pump nut.
Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads. Hence

to loosen then the direction of rotation has to be
clockwise when viewed from front.
Do not tamper or service the center portion of the fan.
The nut should rest on pulley after tightening.

The fan blade assembly and the VFD assembly can be
removed together.
Page 21
High Pressure Pump Removal & Refitment –
Remove tappet cover.
Bring the 1st cylinder in compression
Note –
To confirm the first cylinder TDC position remove the 1st

cylinder injector, insert the MST and the dial gauge.
Check by the dial if the piston is in TDC)
Remove the VFD assembly along with the fan blade

assembly.
Remove the fan belt.
Remove the High Pressure Pump connections and fuel

supply.
Remove the injector pipes.
Page 22
If the piston is not at TDC then the holes will not align
with the block. As a consequence when the MST is used
subsequently the MST can break.
Rotate the engine to align three holes of High Pressure

Pump sprocket with three tapped hole provided on
crank case for mounting threaded pins of removal tool.
FIT the three nos.-threaded pins on crankcase through

FIP sprocket holes and tighten with 17-mm spanner.
High Pressure Pump

Crankcase
Front Cover
FIP Removal Tool Assy
Lock Nut – Ensure to remove

shaft lock nut before installing
FIP removal tool
Page 23
Oil filter removal & refitting --
Remove the right side wheel apron.
Remove the oil filter using the MST 545
CAUTION:
• After removal, ensure that the central stud is fully tight.

• It can work out loose while removal of the filter.
• If it has worked loose then tighten it to torque of 25-30 Nm ( 18-22 Lbft)
• While fitting the new oil filter. Apply oil on the “O” rings.
• Tighten by hand only.
Page 24
Turbocharger removal & Refitment –
Remove the right side wheel apron.

Remove the oil cooler assembly
The above 3 steps are suggested for ease of

operations & access.
Remove the air intake hose to turbocharger.
Cover the opening to the turbocharger with cover to

avoid accidentally dropping any foreign object e.g.
spanner
Page 25
Remove the exhaust pipe from after the elbow.

(Access is only after lifting it on a two post or in a pit
and using a extension with UJ.)
Remove the oil feed pipe and the oil return pipe.
(It is recommended to apply rust cleaning spray (WD 40) in the nuts before attempting to remove
otherwise, the stud will come off.)
Remove the turbocharger mounting 3 nuts.
Page 26
Cylinder Head Gasket Removal & Refitment –
6
4
1
3
1. Remove the rocker cover
2. Remove the Injector’s high-pressure pipes.
3. Remove the Fan blade assembly along with VFD
4. Remove the Accessory Belt.
5. Remove the Water pump.
6. Remove the Turbocharger.
7. Remove the rocker shaft assembly.
8. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
Page 27
Note –
2 8 9 5 3
While removing ensure that the bolts loosening is the
reverse of the tightening sequence
4 6 10 7 1
Remove the Cylinder head assembly.

Measure the length of the cylinder head bolt. If it is up
to 135 mm then the bolt can be reused.
If the length is more than 135 mm, use new bolt.
The cylinder head gasket is of the Multi Layer Steel

(MLRS) Type gasket. Though it can be assembled either
way it is recommended that for optimum performance
the Top, which is identified by the lettering, is facing
upward.(The cylinder Head gasket cannot be reused –
even if it appears to be good.)
Do not use any sealant/lubricant like shellac or oil on

either block or head or gasket face.
The cylinder head bolts are to be tightened with slight

trace of clean engine oil. (2-3 drops only). Do not put
excess quantity of oil.
The tightening sequence is as shown.

9 3 2 6 8 The tightening torque’s is 90 Nm then followed by 60-
degree angular torque. Again torque by 60 degree.
7 5 1 4 10 The angular torque in 2 stages ensures that the

tightening/ clamping loads of all the bolts are very close
to each other.
Page 28
Working principle, of the various subsystems of the Engine –
The various subsystems are:
Turbocharger: Please refer to the Air Intake System section.
• Exhaust Gas Recirculation
• Crankcase ventilation
• Oil circulation
Refer ‘Emission Control System’ in this manual to know about the Working Principle of Exhaust Gas
Recirculation.
Page 29
Working principle of Crankcase Ventilation System –
The ventilation system is closed ventilation type. A hose connects the ladder frame / sump assembly
to the oil separator. Te oil separator is a labriyanth type. The oil goes through the labriyanth, the oil
collected drops down. The excess pressure acts below the diaphragm. The diaphragm is acted from
below by the crankcase pressure and from top the suction by air cleaner. A spring also acts on top of
the diaphragm. Once the pressure exceeds the diaphragm lifts and the excess crankcase pressure goes
to the air intake system.
Certain amount of oil will be carried from the oil separator to the Air inlet hose, which is normal.
However if it is excessive please look for all the causes mentioned in the high blow bye.
Oil circulation system –
An external gear type pump sucks the oil through the strainer. The oil pump is driven by the gear,
which is mounted, on the crankshaft. The oil pump delivers pressurized oil to the supply bore in the
block. This oil is delivered to the oil cooler and after getting cooled comes on the outer side of the
element. The filtered oil goes through the centre of the oil filter and is connected to the main oil
gallery.
The main oil gallery runs to the front of the block where it is delivered to the timing cover. From
therein it takes a small loop in the timing cover and again comes to the front of the block. It goes to
another oil gallery. Oil from this gallery supplies oil to the piston cooling jets
Oil from the main oil gallery goes to the crankshaft main journal and camshaft, while from the rear
end it is supplied to the alternator’s vacuum pump. The oil supply for the turbocharger is from the oil
filter bracket.
The oil routed from the main oil gallery lubricates the timing gears and the idler gear bush. Part of this
oil gets sprayed from idler shaft hole. The camshaft gear and the thrust plate are lubricated by engine
oil routed from the first camshaft bushing through the camshaft hole.
The oil from the First camshaft bush goes to the top of the cylinder and enters an oil gallery, which
extend up to 110 m from the front. Oil from this gallery comes to the base of the first rocker shaft-
Page 30
mounting bracket. The oil then enters the rocker shaft. Oil enters the rocker bushing at through two
holes facing the bottom half. At the same time it sprays from the oil hole at the side of the rocker to
lubricate the valve stem and the surfaces over which the valve cap slides. The oil then returns to the
sump through the push rod holes in the cylinder head.
In both the oil cooler and oil filter, bypass valves are provided which operate if the differential
pressure exceeds 0.8 bar.
Rocker shaft
Idler sprocket
To alternator
vacuum pump 1
Main bearing
2 Oil jet
Cam bearing
3
Main Oil gallery
4
Oil filter
bypass Oil
filter
5
Oil cooler
bypass
Safety Oil
Valve cooler
Oil filter Supply to

Pump
bracket Turbocharger
Strai
ner
Page 31
Oil filter bracket & pressure relief valve in oil filter bracket is deleted. Crack opening pressure of relief
valve in oil pump has been reduced from 6 bar to 4.5 bar. Oil pressure sensor, is mounted on main oil
galleries (which is on exhaust side.)
Oil gallery is drilled from front bottom side for oil supply to hydraulic tensioner. This oil gallery is
plugged by M9 tapered plug from bottom side.
Oil supply to turbo charger is from opening in exhaust side main oil gallery.
Dismantling & overhauling of the Engine -
Comprise of 5 steps:
• Removal of the engine
• Dismantling
• Inspection
• Assembly
• Testing
Page 32
Removal of the engine from the vehicle –
Disconnect the battery cables & remove the battery.
Remove the bonnet.
Remove the radiator drain cock. Collect the coolant -if

the coolant is clean it so that it can be reused.
Remove the electrical connections of:

 Oil pressure sensor
 Water temperature sensor.
 Starter motor
 All sensors ( HFM,ISS,Phase)
 Connection to Injectors, Modulator.
 Boost pressure sensor
Remove the air cleaner assembly.

Remove the hose connection from the Turbocharger
end TC to intercooler.
Page 33
Remove the exhaust pipe at the Turbocharger outlet

elbow.
- Remove the Turbocharger mounting bolts and remove the Turbocharger.

- It is recommended to remove the Turbocharger before the removal in order to avoid any
accidental damage to it while removing.
Remove the oil evaporator system.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the fuel lines from filter to High Pressure Pump

& return to fuel tank.
Remove hoses connecting the water pump to radiator.
Page 34
Remove the hose connected from the water pump to

heater and also the heater return line.
Remove the fan shroud.
Remove the radiator.
Remove the power steering connection hoses from the

power steering pump.
Remove the pipes connecting from AC compressor

suction and discharge lines.
Page 35
Remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump in

alternator to booster.
Drain the oil from the sump.

Attach lifting device.
Remove the front insulators mounting bolts,
Remove the gearbox mounting Allen screws.
Pull out and lift the engine from the engine
compartment.
• Dismantling -
After removing the engine from the vehicle mount it on the engine stand.
Remove the rocker cover
Remove the High-pressure pipes.
Remove the leak off pipe.

Loosen the Viscous Fan Drives nut.
Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads. Hence
to loosen then the direction of rotation has to be
clockwise when viewed from front
Page 36
Loosen the tensioner bolt first. Loosen the belt tension

with the bolt on bracket.
Remove the accessory belt.
While assembly take care that main drive pulley is

assembled correctly.
It should be noticed that the main drive pulley can be

assembled in either direction, however the front end is
identified by holes drilled for balancing (this are not
thorough holes). If assembled wrongly it will cause
misalignment by 5to 6 mm
Remove the pipe from the oil cooler to the water pump.
Remove the water pump.
Page 37
Remove the pipe oil cooler to the block.
Remove the oil cooler.
Remove the accessory like power steering pump. AC

pump and the alternator.
Remove the injectors.
Page 38
Bring the first cylinder into compression. Confirm using
the MST
Remove the front cover on the timing cover.
Ensure that the “O” rings on the front cover is kept

securely so that it can be reused if not damaged while
reassembly.
Remove the HPP mounting nut
Using the pusher remove the High Pressure Pump.
Page 39
Rotate the engine to align three holes of FIP sprocket with three tapped hole provided on crank case for
mounting threaded pins of FIP removal tool.
FIT the three nos.-threaded pins (on crankcase through HPP sprocket holes and tightened with 17-mm
spanner.
High Pressure Pump

Crankcase
Front Cover
FIP Removal Tool Assy
Lock Nut – Ensure to remove

shaft lock nut before installing
FIP removal tool
Insert three slotted pins in the other three holes of HPP sprocket and rest against crankcase face
Now slide pins in the slot so that bottom portion of slot will butt against the back face of sprocket when
HPP shaft is pushed away from sprocket.
Remove the three nuts used for mounting the HPP flange on the crankcase
Remove the HPP sprocket-mounting Nut

Assemble the Flange of MST with help three M8 bolts on the face of three threaded pins.
Now assemble the M 16 threaded on the flange. Rotate the threaded bolt with 24mm spanner so that
FIP is pushed out from the sprocket.
Please hold the HPP with hand while pushing out from sprocket.
Page 40
Do not remove all the pins i.e. detail no. 2 & 5 till HPP is
reassembled on the sprocket.
(If the MST is removed while the FIP is not in place then
chance of sprocket getting bent and later the chain
failure is high.)
Remove rocker cover
Remove the rocker shaft assembly
Remove the cylinder head mounting bolts.
Remove the cylinder head along with the inlet and

exhaust manifold.
Rotate the engine.
Remove the oil sump.
Remove the oil pump along with the suction.
Ensure that the oil sump gasket is removed. It will help in locating all ladder frame mounting bolts
Rotate the engine by 90 degree.
Remove the oil jets along with the gasket.
Page 41
Remove the connecting rod caps and take out the

pistons.
Rotate the engine by 90 degree.
Remove the dampener pulley
Remove the tensioner pulley
Remove the timing cover.
Remove the idler gear after removing the 3 bolts.
Remove the camshaft’s main bolt and the 2-thrust plate

locking bolts.
Remove the camshaft.
Page 42
Lock the flywheel using the MST 252 and loosen the
flywheel mounting bolts
Remove the flywheel.

Remove the rear end oil seal with the retainer
Remove the main bearing bolts.
Remove the bearing caps along with bearing shell

halves.
Remove the crankshaft.
Remove the bearing shells & thrust washers.
Rotate the engine.
Remove the cylinder liners using the MST.
Remove the tappets by reversing the engine.
Page 43
Inspection:
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are beyond the wear limits,
have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be ensured.
Piston: Check for scuffing/scoring on the skirt. A hard thick layer of carbon lacquer on top land is
acceptable. (If the thick layer is present on the piston check that the liner does not have scuffing)
However scuffing of the top land and skirt giving indication of overheating which is not acceptable.
Liner: Any scoring on the liner is not acceptable.
Crankshaft: Check for scoring on the main as well as connecting rod journal. If scoring is nominal and
will not the increase the oil clearance then the crankshaft can be used in, as it is condition.
However if it is unacceptable then the journal has to be ground up to service limits only.
Any deep groove in the rear end oil seal seating area is unacceptable. It will result in oil leaks.
Valve: If valve tip is worn out/ ridged then not acceptable
Main bearing and connecting rod bearing — If the scoring is nominal and oil clearance is not affected,
then it can be reused. However if flaking /peeling of the bimetal in any particular zone only is present
then use new shell. Look for foreign particle embedded, deep scratches.
Dampener pulley rubber bonding – inspect for any gap between the rubber ring and the outer/inner
ring, Cracks on ring. Any deep groove in the front oil seal seating area is unacceptable. It will lead to
leakages.
If any deterioration of rubber or gap noticed between the ring and the rubber replace the dampener
pulley.
It is suggested that the dampener pulley be replaced at every 3,00,000 Kms.
Caution:
While measuring the inner diameter of the connecting rod big end and main journal please take the
measurements after torque tightening only. For measurement purpose the torque should be 85±8
Nm. Do not reuse this bolt.
If line boring of the crankshaft’s journal in the block is done to rectify any oval, then ensure that the
material from block half is not removed. In absence of taking this precaution the piston will move
up. It will change the compression, influencing the performance. In the worst case the valves can hit
the piston.
Page 44
Assembly –
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling procedure.

To obtain a good life of the rebuilt unit absolute cleanliness of the parts is taken as a prerequisite and
also the fact that all the parts have been inspected.
The additional points which are mentioned are necessary to give you the engine life same as the
original engine.
Bolts
The following bolts are recommend to be replace every time they are opened-if the Maximum length
exceeds the specification. However the connecting rod bolt has to be changed every time without
exception.
The bolts have to be tightened by base torque then 2 stage angular torque. The angular torque’s
ensures that the bolts are torque tightened up to yield point. And the 2 stage ensures that the
clamping load for each bolt is within a very close tolerance.
 Cylinder head bolts - 10 nos. Maximum length 136.6/135.4 mm

 Main Bearing Bolts - 10 nos. Maximum length 90.6/89.4mm
 Connecting rod bolts- 08 nos. Replace every time.
 Flywheel bolts - 06nos. Maximum length 29.58/30.42 mm
Cylinder block – Top face –
Ensure that the tapping for the cylinder head bolt as well as the crankshaft’s main journal is fine.
Ensure that no water or oil after cleaning is in the bolt holes (esp. the cylinder heads.). If found please
remove them, if necessary using cotton cloth (not cotton waste).
If the oil /water is not removed then it is possible that while tightening the bolt. It may not allow
complete tightening of the bolts and one will get a false reading.
Cylinder head gasket –
It is a multi layer steel gasket type. Do not use any oil or shellac on the cylinder head gasket or on the
block face or the cylinder head face. The gasket has to be fitted dry.
The gasket can be assembled any face up or down. However it is suggested that the face with the
numbers should be facing up.
Piston & Rings –
While fitting the piston rings ensure that the rings end gap are staggered in 120°.
The first ring end gap should not be on the thrust axis but the minor axis i.e. on the gudgeon pin axis.
Please note that the first ring is keystone shaped hence the top mark has to face up. The 2nd ring is
taper faced. The face, which should be on the top, has to be facing up. The 3rd ring is the conformable
type oil ring. It can be assembled either way.
While assembling the piston on to the liner- apply clean oil liberally on the liner surface.
Page 45
Bearing shells –
Before fitting the bearing shell ensure that the parent bore of the block/connecting rod are clean.
Wipe with a clean cloth the back end of shells before assembling on to the block or connecting rod.
Ensure that the bearing shells are located properly in the notches.
Oil seals –
Ensure that
 All the oil seals are fitted using the dolly MST.
 Always ensure that the lip is coated with grease before fitment.
 Apply engine oil on the outside diameter of seal. The receiving bore should be free of burrs, dent.
Engine Testing –
After the engine is reassembled in the engine stand; it is recommended that:

The engine is assembled back to the vehicle. All the connections are made.
 Start the engine

 Run at idle for 5 minute. Observe for leaks.
 Drive the vehicle at 50% of the maximum speed in each gear for about 10 to 30 Km each (Aprox.)
 Hand over the vehicle to customer to drive with speed limitation for 2000 Kms.
 After 5000 Kms. Readjust the fan belt and tappet clearance. Change the engine oil.
DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD FOR HOURS FOR BEDDING IN. THIS PROCESS ONLY
HARMS THE ENGINE.
RUNNING THE ENGINE WITHOUT LOAD CAUSE RING FLUTTERING AND DAMAGE TO RINGS AS WELL
AS LINERS.
RUNNING THE ENGINE AT IDLE FOR PROLONGED TIME HAS SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES ON MAJOR
ENGINE COMPONENTS
Page 46
• Technical Specifications & Wear Data –
Description Value
Swept Volume cc 2498
Bore mm 94
Stroke mm 90
Power- Max 79kW / 106 BHP @ 3800 rpm
Torque-Max 247 Nm@ 1800 to 2000 rpm
No. & Layout of Cylinders / Firing Order 4 Cylinder, Inline, 1-3-4-2
Direction of rotation Clockwise from fan side
Compression Ratio 17.8 : 1
Compression Pressure Standard Service Limit
30 bar ± 1 (Variation difference)
Piston Re-entrant Bowl
Piston Pin Full floating. Surface hardened & ground.
Oil grade & Quantity API grade CH4, Viscosity Index 15W40
6 litres; Maximile brand
Cylinder liner Replaceable wet type Cast Iron
Tappet clearance (Cold)
Inlet 0.45 mm
Exhaust 0.45 mm
Max. Lift of Valve
Inlet mm 9.5 mm
Exhaust mm 10.9 mm
Angle of Valve/ port (w.r.t. top dead centre) 90°
Inlet valve
OPENS 14°BTDC
CLOSES 30°ABDC
Exhaust Valve
OPENS 46°BBDC
CLOSES 14°ATDC
Oil pump shaft Standard Service Limit
13.984/13.966 13.956
Oil pump shaft Bush Standard Service Limit
14.000/14.018 14.038
Oil filter bypass opening pressure 0.8 bar
Oil pressure at
Idle ( 60∼80°C) 2.5 bar
Max speed( 60∼80°C)
Piston ring to groove clearance Standard Service Limit
1st ring 0.11/0.15 0.25
2nd ring 0.05/0.09 0.15
3rd ring 0.04/0.072 0.15
Piston ring end gaps Standard Service Limit
1st ring 0.33/0.55 0.9
2nd ring 0.8/1.05 1.5
3rd ring 0.25/0.55 0.9
Gudgeon pin O.D φ 32/31.994
Page 47
Connecting rod – Small end bush I.D φ in Standard
assembled condition 32.041/32.025
Gudgeon pin to connecting rod small end bush Standard Service Limit
clearance. 0.047/0.025 0.05
Gudgeon pin to piston pin hole clearance Standard Service Limit
0.017/0.004 0.03
Piston weights grading
A 836-840 gm
B 841-845 gm
C 846-850 gm
D 851-855 gm
E 856-860 gm
Connecting rod grading as per weights
F ≥ 1260
G ≥1265
H ≥1270
I ≥1275
J ≥1280
K ≥1285
L ≥1290
M ≥1295
N ≥1300
O
≥1305
P
≥1310
R
≥1315
S
≥1320
T
U ≥1325 to 1330
Recommended for service replacement M i.e. 1295 to 1300 gms
Connecting rod bend or twist 0.05 In 50mm length.
Connecting rod end play Standard Service Limit
0.1/0.3 0.5
Crankshaft end play Standard Service Limit
0.10/0.37 0.5
Camshaft end play Standard Service Limit
01/0.3 0.4
Liner projection from crankcase top surface 0.02/0.09
X Axis- Along C/s Standard Limit
Y Axis- Perpendicular to cranks shaft
A- 25 mm φ ID 94.022/94.04
B- -86.6 mm
C- 113 mm Roundness ≤ 0.05
D- 163 mm
Roundness/Ovality- Difference in X & Y plane at Cylindricty ≤ 0.05
any pt.
Cylindricity/Taper -Difference in same plane x/y
at any point
Crankcase top surface distortion Standard Service Limit
0.07 0.1
Cylinder head bottom face distortion Standard Service Limit
0.05 0.1
Page 48
Height of cylinder head from top to bottom face Standard Service Limit
97.7/98.3 97.4
Rocker lever bush I.D ( in pressed condition) 22.0
Rocker shaft O.D 21.98/21.980
Rocker to shaft clearance Standard Service Limit
0.02/0.06 0.2
Push rod bent Standard Service Limit
≤ 0.25 0.40
Valve spring Standard Service Limit
Free Length 53.6 50.6
Squareness 0.15 0.2
Installed Load/Installed length 381.5N/43 mm 347 N
Valve seat angle 44°45′ to 45°
Valve stem O.D
Inlet 6.95/7.10
Exhaust 6.95/7.10
Valve to Valve guide clearance
Inlet 0.03/0.07
Exhaust 0.05/0.09
Thickness of the valve head Standard Service Limit
2.0 1.5
Chain Duplex bush type
98 Links, Endless & Riveted.
Crank Sprocket 38 Teeth
Idler Sprocket 22 Teeth
HPP Sprocket 28 Teeth
Difference between Cam height & base circle Standard Service Limit
diameter
Inlet 6.0796 5.5796
Exhaust 6.9076 6.4076
Camshaft Bush I.Dφ 49.025/49.0
Camshaft Journal O.D 48.98/48.95
Camshaft bush to cam journal clearance Standard Service Limit
0.02/0.075 0.1
Camshaft bend ≤ 0.01
I.D of tappet hole in crankcase 24.48
Tappet to tappet hole clearance Standard Service Limit
0.02/0.075 0.15
Crankshaft pin Standard Service Limit
∅ OD 53.0/52.981
Roundness/Ovality ≤ 0.01 0.03
Cylindricity/Taper ≤ 0.012 0.03
Main Bearing oil clearance Standard Service Limit
0.016/0.074 0.1
Undersize of the c/s crank pin ∅ OD Dimensions of the crankpin.
0.25mm US 52.75/52.731
0.50 mm US 52.50/52.481
0.75 mm US 52.25/52.231
Page 49
Crankshaft journal Standard Service Limit
∅ OD 59.0/58.981
Roundness/ Ovality ≤ 0.005 0.03
Cylindricity/ Taper ≤ 0.008 0.02
Undersize of the c/s journal pin ∅ OD Dimensions of the journal
0.25mm US 58.75/58.371
0.50 mm US 58.50/58.481
0.75 mm US 58.25/58.231
Crankshaft bend Standard Service Limit
≤ 0.025 0.06
CAUTION FILLETS ARE HARDENED. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
STRAIGTEN
Crankshaft fillet radius Standard Service Limits
3.0/3.5
Crankshaft Hardness Minimum 50 HRC
Connecting rod Bearing oil clearance Standard Service Limit
0.016/0.040 0.070
The Maximum length of bolts after which they
can not be used
Cylinder head bolts 136.6/135.4 mm

Main Bearing Bolts Connecting rod 90.6/89.4mm
Flywheel bolts length Replace everytime
29.58/30.42 mm
Thermostat
Starts opening at 80~84°C
Fully opens at 96°C
Water pump pulley ratio 1.3
Flywheel 35 ± 0.13
Width from Mounting face to clutch face
Flywheel Standard Service Limit
Flatness ≤ 0.05 0.1
Runout ≤ 0.05 0.1
Page 50
Lubricants & Sealants
Mahindra Maximile Supreme Or any other engine oil conforming to API grade CH4 or above and a
viscosity Index of 15W 40.
If any oil conforming to CG4 grade is used then the oil change interval is 7000 Kms. Oils of MIL 2104
C or below are not acceptable
RTV silicone sealant - RHODOSEAL. Part number 0024532 to be used:
 Between Rear oil seal retainer & Block

 Between ladder frame & block
All other places Loctite 547. Part number 0084337 are used.
Hard gaskets are used only at: -

 Cylinder head Gasket.
 Turbocharger to Exhaust manifold mounting.
 Exhaust manifold to cylinder head.
 Exhaust manifold to EGR pipe
 EGR pipe to elbow.
Rust cleaning solution (For the Turbocharger mounting nuts):
Brand Name: WD-40---

Manufacturer- WD-40 COMPANY
MARKETEDBY—Hardcastle & Waud Manufacturing Co. Ltd.
Brabourne Stadium,
87, Veer Nariman Road
MUMBAI-20.
Page 51
Torque Specification
Description Torque Value

Bolt - Cylinder head 90Nm+ 60°+ 60° ( 66.4 Lbft+60°+ 60°)
Connecting rod cap Mounting bolts 45 Nm+ 90° ( 33 Lbft +90°)
Main Bearing cap 168±17 Nm ( 123 ±12.5 Lbft)
Flywheel 90 Nm + 60° ( 66 Lbft+ 60°)
Cranks shaft pulley 90 Nm + 90°+ 90°
(apply oil on bolt before tightening)
Cam sprocket mounting bolts 135 ± 10 Nm
HPP Mounting Nut 30 ± 3 Nm
Idler Shaft Mounting Bolts
M8 X 1.25 25 ± 3 Nm
M7 X 1.00 15 ± 3 Nm
HPP sprocket lock nut 70 ± 5 Nm
Camshaft thrust Plate mounting Bolts 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Viscous Fan clutch nut 45 ± 5 Nm
Injector holding clamping bolts 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Front cover on crankcase 25 ± 3 Nm ( 18.4 ± 2.2 Lbft)
Oil jet Assembly bolt 10 ± 1 Nm
M6
Alternator Bracket bolts on Cylinder head 40 ± 5 Nm
Alternator brace bolt on alternator 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm
bracket
High Pressure Pipe – HPP to Rail 20±2 Nm
High Pressure Pipe to Injector 27 ± 2 Nm
High Pressure Pipe to rail 35 Nm
Rail mounting on intake manifold 22.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Phase Sensor Mounting on Ft. cover 8 ± 0.5 Nm
Damper Pulley Mounting Bolt 90 Nm +90°+ 90°
Chain Guide (Cam shaft to HPP) 14 ± 1 Nm
Mounting Bolts
Page 52
Special Tools
Description / Part No. / Sketch Usage View

Piston Ring Compressor
MST 262
Holder Assembly for rear oil seal installer

MST 264
Rear Oil Seal Installer

MST 265
Flywheel Lock
MST 271
Lock Pin for Chain Tensioner

MST 273
Special Spanner for Nut - Engine Mounting -MST

– 542
Page 53
Extractor Flywheel Bearing
MST – 543
Drift Flywheel Bearing

MST – 544
Wrench Oil Filter Remover

MST – 545
Cylinder Head Bolt Deep Socket

MST 588
Page 54
Air Intake System
Table of Content
Description............................................................................................................
Trouble Shooting..................................................................................................
Care of the System...............................................................................................
In Car Repairs........................................................................................................
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the Turbocharger.........
Technical Specifications........................................................................................
Torque Specification..............................................................................................
Page 55
Description
The air is sucked through a foam air cleaner. The air enters the air cleaner housing at the bottom and
leaves at the top.
The air cleaner is made up of 5 different layers of foam. Each layer is having different cleaning
efficiency.
THAR CRDe –
Air Intake System
After filtration the air goes to the turbocharger.
A HFM sensor is attached to the outlet of the air cleaner. The air to the turbocharger has to go
through the HFM. The HFM measures the air mass going to the engine. The quantity of the air going is
used to compute the fuelling.
After the HFM and before turbocharger there is mechanical or electrical service indicator. In case of
electrical service indicator, signal of choked air cleaner goes to the instrument cluster. In case of
mechanical one, red band appears in choked condition.
The waste gated turbocharger controls the boost to 1.6. The compressed air is cooled by the charge
intercooler, which is mounted just below the radiator. The cooled air enters the inlet manifolds. It
enters the Cast iron cylinder head through the inlet valves having a 45-degree angle.
Page 56
Trouble Shooting
Engine does not start & Air intake obstructed  Check whether service indicator
emits black smoke light glows or red band appears
and replace element if light is on
/red band appears.
 Refer to the care of the system
also
 Check for free operation of
Turbocharger
Engine does not give full 1. Air intake restricted.  Replace element
power. 2. Air leaks in system after  Plug the leaks, replace hose or
turbocharger clip if required.
3. Air leak in pipe – manifold to  Replace the hose or tighten
FIP  Correct the control valve & find
4. Boost pressure control valve the cause
stuck in open condition.
5. Boost pressure pipe/hose  Check the pipe, washer &
assembly damaged rectify.
6. Turbocharger damaged.  Get the Turbocharger repaired
at authorized TEL dealer.
Black smoke. 1. Air intake restricted.  Check for hoses, replace
element.
2. Air leaks.  Check for leaks between
Turbocharger & inlet manifold
Remove restriction.
Excessive oil 1. Clogged air filter element.  Replace element.
consumption 2. Restriction in air intake to  Locate & remove restriction.
compressor duct.
3. Air leak between the  Locate the leaks, change hose or
Turbocharger to intake clamp if required.
manifold.
4. Restrictions in turbocharger  Remove the restriction in the
drain line. drainpipe.
5. Restriction in crankcase  Check the crankcase ventilation
breather. & rectify.
6. Thick oil/sludge or coke in  Change oil, filter, service the
the turbocharger’s central Turbocharger & use
housing recommended oils & drain
intervals. Follow the
recommended procedure while
shutting down.
7. Turbocharger damaged.  Repair Turbocharger.
Whining noise clearly 1. Indication of air leak esp. in  Tighten the clamps at the
audible after 2000 RPM between: Turbocharger to intercooler inlet and outlet.
inlet manifold.  Tighten the clamps at the
Turbocharger inlet & outlet.
 Check the hoses for leak
 Check & replace the pipe to and
from intercooler.
Page 57
Care of the System
The air cleaner element should be replaced every 40,000 km or if service indicator light glows under
normal driving conditions.
Under extremely dusty conditions replace earlier than above.
It should be noted that if the engine is run with clogged air cleaner, then it will lead to seepage of oil
from turbocharger into the air intake system.
Ensure that the recommended engine oil only is used and the specified drain intervals are maintained.
To achieve an optimum cooling of the compressed air it is vital that the vehicle’s number plate
position is not changed and/ or an oversize number plate does not block the aperture for the air draft
for the intercooler.
The Turbocharger & boost control valve does not require any special maintenance. However check the
boost pressure pipe for proper fitment (connection from compressor to boost valve). Damage, cracks,
chips at ends, etc.
Check the operation of the waste gate valve by blowing compressed air with 2.0 bar in the valve hose.
The valve should open, pressing the turbocharger stem and opening the exhaust valve (flap valve)
Check the oil separator system, in particular for any leak in vacuum leak. As any vacuum leak will lead
to a high-pressure build up and then it will go through the intake system and give a signal of high blow
by or be confused with compressor oil leak.
Do not attempt to disturb length of the waste gate controlling actuator rod.
If the Turbocharger is removed, please do not lift the turbocharger using the actuator rod as a lifting
handle.
Page 58
Air Filter Element - Replace
Nut/ Bolt description Quantity Nos. Spanner Size Torque Value – Nm.
Air filter top cover allen bolt 07 6 mm 4.5 ± 0.5
Hose clamps – air cleaner to manifold 02 11 mm. 2.5 ± 0.5
02 11 mm. 4.5 ± - 0.5
Air Filter Element - Replacement
AIR FILTER ELEMENT – REPLACE

Refer illustration shown above –
Do not• clean
Openthethe
airclean
filter and dirty sides hose clip & remove the hose.
element.
• Open the Air cleaner
Replace Air filter element at 40000Top cover
kms orbolts.
early if required.
• Remove the Air filter element along with grates and clean the bottom bowl.
• Separate the top as well as bottom grates and replace the air filter element; assemble the
grates & put the assembly back in place. Position the new element properly. Take care of
lug projections.
• Assemble the top cover & tighten the top cover bolts diagonally.
• Assemble the clean hose on the air cleaner outlet-Air Mass Sensor neck and tighten the
hose clip.
• Do not attempt to Clean and reuse the Air filter element.

• Air filter element to be replaced at every 40000kms or earlier
in dusty conditions.
Page 59
In Car Repairs
Following activities are covered under this section –
• Air Filter Assembly Removal
• Turbocharger Removal & Installation
• Air Filter Service Indicator Removal
• Clean Side Intake Hose Removal
• Dirty Side Hose Removal
• Intercooler Assembly Removal
• Intake manifold Removal
• Exhaust Manifold Removal
Page 60
Air Filter Assembly - Removal
A 1. Using a 0.31”(8mm) socket and wrench set,

B loosen the inlet hose lock clip screw (A) and
detach the hose from the filter assembly (B).
2. Disconnect the HFM sensor from connection

and position it aside.
3. Remove the dirty hose secured to the

condenser seal.
4. Using a 0.31” (8mm) socket and wrench set,

loosen the clamp screw (A) and remove the hose
(B) its position.
5. Using a 0.51” (13mm) socket and wrench set, loosen the mounting bolts of the air filter assembly.
6. Carefully remove the air filter assembly from the vehicle.
Installation
• To install, reverse the removal procedure.

• Tighten the mounting bolts to the specified torque.
Page 61
Turbocharger Assembly Removal -
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Remove the exhaust pipe from after the elbow.

(Access is only after lifting it on a two post or in a pit.)
Remove the air intake hose to turbocharger.
Remove the oil feed pipe and the oil return pipe.
It is suggested that all the opening in the Turbine housing, compressor housing and the center
housing be covered with plugs or masking tape.
This is recommended as even a small particle/ washer if trapped between the blades & housing can
destroy the turbocharger.
(It is recommended to apply rust cleaning spray in the nuts before attempting to remove otherwise
the stud will come off.)
Page 62
Remove the turbocharger mounting 3 nuts.
Please do not lift the turbocharger using the actuator rod as a lifting handle.
While fitting back the Turbocharger, it is essential to purge the oil supply line of any air.
NOTE: Do not mishandle, tumbled, drop or keep any ports open.
Check
The inlet connection & outlet exhaust connection to turbocharger for foreign material, cracks,
blockages, sand particles, loose nuts etc. This check should be done more thoroughly if any damage
has been noticed in compressor or turbine blades as under normal operating conditions the blades
can damaged only if a foreign object hits them.
Check all the hoses and pipes from turbocharger outlet to intercooler and intercooler to inlet
manifold for crack, aging, leaks. Check the hose clips for proper functioning. If in doubt – replace. The
oil supply pipe should be checked carbon deposits, crack, distortions etc. Clean the supply pipe
before fitting. Do not attempt to change the orientation of turbocharger and ensure the correct
gaskets are used.
Do not reuse any of metallic gaskets even if they appear to be good. It will lead to leakage & drop in
the performance of the engine.
Installation –
Once a new turbocharger is being installed

a. Fill fresh clean oil from the oil supplies port and after that give the shaft few rotations.
b. Fit the supply pipe.
c. Crank the engine till a steady stream of oil comes out through the drain pipe.
• Do not crank the engine for too long.

• Excessive cranking will result in emptying of the pump cavity causing the plunger to run dry.
This will ensure that the oil supply line to Turbocharger is purged of any air pocket.
d. After this fit the return line from turbocharger to sump, taking care to avoid any kinks. With
engine running condition, check the air, exhaust and oil connections for leaks.
Page 63
Air Filter Service Indicator - Removal
1. Using a 0.67” (17mm) (A) open end

spanner, hold the service indicator (B)
mounting on the intake hose and using a
0.43”(11mm) spanner (C) remove the service
indicator.
Inspection
1. Check the service indicator for any physical damage.
Installation
1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Clean Side Intake Hose - Removal
1. Using a 0.31”(8mm) socket and wrench

set, loosen the clean side intake hose
lock clip screw (A) and detach the hose
from the filter assembly (B).
2. Using a suitable plier, pull back the clamp

and remove the positive crankcase
ventilation hose.
3. Disconnect the atmospheric pressure

hose (A) to the vacuum modulator from
the clean side air intake hose.
Inspection
Installation
Page 64
Dirty Side Hose - Removal
1. Remove the clean side intake hose.

A
2. Using a 0.31”(8mm) socket and wrench set,

B loosen the dirty side intake hose lock clip
screw (A) and detach the hose from the
filter assembly (B).
3. Pull out the dirty side intake hose lock clip

screw and detach the hose from the scoop
end.
Inspection
Installation
Page 65
Intercooler Assembly –
Removal -
Intercooler assembly is fitted in the front of the

radiator and condenser assembly, inside front grill.
Refer illustration.
Refer illustration for Intercooler intake and outlet hose location shown by arrow mark.
• Remove the Air filter assembly and coolant reservoir for getting access to remove the Intercooler
hoses.
• Remove both side Head lamp assemblies.
• Remove both side stay rods.
Page 66
Remove the front grill assembly.
Remove the Intercooler assembly.
• Installation is reverse to the removal.
• Ensure to close the intake pipe at manifold end and Turbo end to avoid foreign body entry.
Page 67
Intake Manifold – Removal
Remove NVH cover.
Remove EGR assy.
Remove all high presser fuel lines & CR assembly.
Remove Intake manifold assembly.
• Removal the manifold gaskets as and when

opened.
• Check and correct leakage from EGR assembly
or manifold mounting.
Exhaust Manifold – Removal
Remove NVH cover & intercooler assembly.

Remove Turbo charger assembly.
Remove Alternator assy.
Remove EGR pipe flange bolts on manifold
Remove heat shield & exhaust manifold.
Removal gaskets & refit exhaust manifold.

Check main drive belt tension.
Check for no oil & gas leak.
 Removal the exhaust manifold gaskets

whenever it is opened.
 Use recommended rust free if manifold
mounting bolts found jam.
Page 68
Turbocharger Assembly – Removal
Remove NVH cover & intercooler assembly.

Remove Turbo Charger suction hose.
Remove exhaust tail pipe fitted on TC turbine.
Remove Turbo Charger oil supply and oil outlet

banjo & pipes assy.
Remove Turbo Charger assembly from exhaust

manifold.
Remove the Turbo Charger Assembly.
Page 69
Working Principle, Inspection & Fitment procedures of the Turbocharger –
The Turbocharger is basically an axial inflow air compressor, which is driven by an exhaust gas driven
turbine.
The exhausts gases coming out of exhaust manifold impinge on the turbine blade give the drive to
turbine shaft. At the other end of the turbine shaft the compressor is assembled. The whole assembly
is supported on a floating bush. The bush gets an oil supply directly from the engine and has oil film
between the shaft and bearing as well as the bush and the central housing.
The exhaust gases from the Turbine impinge on the turbine blade & rotate the shaft. The compressor
blades at the other end suck the air from the air filter. After compression the temperature of the
compressed air increases thus reducing the air density. Hence if the air is cooled and then the air
density increases thus helping in getting more power as well as improve emissions. The compressed
air is sent to the intercooler, which is mounted just below the radiator. Hence the incoming ram air
also cools the compressed air and gives it to the intake manifold.
The turbocharger is matched to give an optimum boost for the desired engine speed band. A waste
gate controls the boost. The waste gate is used to bypass the excess exhaust gas away from the
turbine and thus maintain the boost as well as control the backpressure. A spring-loaded diaphragm
controls the waste gate.
A flap valve is installed in the turbine housing just before the turbine blade. Opening the valve allows
the excess gases to bypass the turbine. The flap movement is controlled by a push rod, which is
controlled by a spring-loaded diaphragm. At the other end of the diaphragm the compressed air is
sensed through a hose which is connected at a tapping in the compressor housing.
The length of the pushrod, functioning of the diaphragm and the hose connection are essential for the
precise operation of the push rod. Any air leak from the hose connecting the compressor housing to
the waste gate-controlling diaphragm will also affect the performance of the turbocharger/ engine.
Inspection
 Inspect the suction side (i.e. up to the air cleaner) for oil traces.
In a close crank case ventilation system it is normal to have oil in this area. These oil particles are
carried from blow bye of the engine, which gets condensed from gas to oil. Look for any undue
gumming of oil, hard carbon particles in this area. If such an observation is present then all the
causes for excess blow symptoms have to be checked and eliminated.
 Inspect the compressor and turbine blades for any damage caused by foreign object. The
inspection can be done through the compressor housing inlet and turbine housings outlet.
 Inspect the blades outer edge and observe if any rubbing marks are noticed on the housing.
 Rotate the shaft wheel assembly by hand and check for freeness, and any binding.
 Push the shaft to side and rotate to check for wheel rub. It should turn smoothly.
 Lift both end of shaft up and down at the same time and feel for excessive journal bearing
clearance. If clearance is normal then very little shaft movement will be detected.
 If all the above checks are satisfactory then the turbocharger can be reused.
Page 70
♦ If the turbocharger parts are damaged, wheel rubbing marks present, shaft not rotating freely
or binding or excessive journal clearance then the Turbocharger should be serviced.
 Do not attempt to service or overhaul the Turbocharger. It should be done only at the authorized
Turbo Energy Ltd service center. Any attempts to attend without the use of special tools or
procedure can damage to turbocharger or personnel!
Turbocharger Installation –
• Do not mishandle, tumbled, dropped or keep any ports open.

• Do not use the actuator control rod for lifting or carrying.
• Do not disturb the setting of the actuator.
 Check
The inlet connection & outlet exhaust connection to turbocharger for foreign material, cracks,
blockages, sand particles, loose nuts etc. This check should be done more thoroughly if any damage
has been noticed in compressor or turbine blades as under normal operating conditions the blades
can damaged only if a foreign object hits them.
Check all the hoses and pipes from turbocharger outlet to intercooler and intercooler to inlet manifold
for crack, aging, leaks. Check the hose clips for proper functioning. If in doubt – replace.
The oil supply pipe should be checked carbon deposits, crack, distortions etc. Clean the supply pipe
before fitting.
Do not attempt to change the orientation of turbocharger and ensure the correct gaskets are used.
Do not reuse any of metallic gaskets even if they appear to be good. It will lead to leakage & drop in
the performance of the engine.
Installation –
Once a new turbocharger is being installed,
i. Fill fresh clean oil from the oil supplies port and after that give the shaft few rotations.
ii. Fit the supply pipe.
iii. Crank the engine till a steady stream of oil comes out through the drainpipe. (CAUTION: Do not
crank the engine for too long. Excessive cranking will result in emptying of the pump cavity
causing the plunger to run dry.)
This will ensure that the oil supply line to Turbocharger is purged of any air pocket.
After this, fit the return line from turbocharger to sump, taking care to avoid any kinks.
With engine running condition, check the air, exhaust and oil connections for leaks.
Page 71
Technical Specifications
Description Value
Turbocharger Model K 04
Turbocharger Type K0 3-0088 M&M (k 03 2070)
Turbocharger supplier Turbo Energy Ltd (TEL), Chennai.
Air velocity between the Air filter compressor inlet 35 M/sec
Air velocity between the compressor outlet and the 50 M/Sec (Max)
inlet manifold
Maximum static back pressure at downstream of 60 mbar
turbine
Oil pressure at upstream of turbocharger 2.5 bar
Description of system (e.g Charge pressure@max. Max Charge Pressure 100(+0/-20) kPa with
power and torque,speed, wastegate, if applicable.) Waste Gate Control
Description Box Type Aluminium Casting
Identification No./ Part no. M&M part No:0302CC0050N
Air filter
Make M.N Rama Rao & Co. Pvt Ltd, India
Type Foam Type.
Identification No./ Part no. Part no: 0313AM0350N
Inter cooler
Make Visteon India, Chennai, India.
Identification mark / Part No. Part number: 03040G0130N
Air pressure drop across the intercooler Max.100 mbar
Bolt location Torque in Nm ( Lbft)

Turbocharger Mounting stud/ nut 25 ± 3 Nm( 18.4 ± 2 lbf-ft)
Inlet manifold 25 ± 3 (18.4 ± 2 lbf-ft )
Air cleaner top cover bolts 4.5 Nm (3 lbf-ft)
Page 72
Cooling System
Table of Content
Description…………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Trouble Shooting……………………………………………………………………………………………
Care of the system…………………………………………………………………………………………
In Car repairs…………………………………………………………………………………………………
Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System……………………………………………..
Fan Belt-Routing & Analysis……………………………………………………………………………
Technical Specifications…………………………………………………………………………………
Torque Specification………………………………………………………………………………………
Page 73
Description
The cooling system is designed to cater to the following functions:
• Remove & dissipate excess heat from the combustion process.

• To maintain the optimum temperature for complete and uniform combustion.
• To provide heating for the heater system. (In the models where the Heater is provided)
The cooling system includes the following components/ sub system:
1. Radiator 7. EGR Cooler Assembly

2. Radiator Pressure cap 8. AC system Inlet & Outlet Hose
3. Coolant 9. Water pump
4. Cooling fan ( Mechanical or Electrical) 10. Thermostat and housing, Coolant Recovery
5. Fan drive tank
6. Fan shroud 11. Hoses & their clamps
The layout of the cooling system is shown in the sketch, above.
8
7
10
The layout of the cooling system is shown in the sketch, above.
Page 74
The functional system is shown in the block diagram.
Heater of
HVAC system
EGR Cooler
Water flow Bypass tube Thermostat

when
thermostat Cylinder
is closed Head
Water Front Block

Pump Cover
Oil cooler
Radiator
Broadly speaking the water flows from the water pump to the Front cover from the cover it goes to
cylinder block and from the block to the cylinder head and then to the bottom of thermostat. In case
the thermostat is closed, water goes through the bypass tube to water pump. Once the thermostat
opens the water goes to the radiator and after getting cooled the water is again fed to the water
pump. One pipe goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core of HVAC unit and then returns
back.
Water pump & cover –
The coolant from the outlet elbow of the cross flow type radiator enters the inlet of the water pump.
The centrifugal water pump delivers the water to the front cover from there to the cylinder block.
Page 75
Cylinder block & cylinder head –
In the block the water enters a main cooling passage which runs along the length of the block in one
side (inlet manifold side). The top passage ensures that the maximum cooling is provided to the
hottest zone of the cylinder liners i.e. the top portion.
At the same time a passage at the front end connect the inlet to another gallery at the bottom of the
liner. In between the top and lower passage in the block the coolant flows between the block & liners
due to the thermos siphon effect. The water then goes to the cylinder head and from there to bottom
of the thermostat. One external pipe from the back end of the block goes to the oil cooler. The return
pipe form the oil cooler is connected to the inlet of the water pump.
Radiator & No loss tank –
The radiator cap controls the system pressure to 0.9 bar. Once the pressure exceeds 0.9 bar the cap
lifts off the seat and the coolant is allowed to escape into a no loss tank.
As the engine cools down the system pressure falls and vacuum is formed .The vacuum valve in the
radiator cap opens and allows the water from the no loss tank to go back into the radiator. Thus the
system does not have any coolant loss during normal operation.
Water for AC –
The hot water at the thermostat housing is diverted to the heater unit, which is located in the
passenger compartment for the AC function.
The return from the heater is connected to the inlet of the water pump. It should be noted that a
water valve near the heater/climate box controls the amount of the water, which enters the heater
unit. The occupants determine the amount of the opening of the water valve. It will be full quantity
when it is set is maximum heater mode and vary till the coldest mode where it will become nil as the
valve will be fully closed.
Water to EGR Cooler –
The cold water from the water pump is supplied to the EGR Cooler. EGR pipe carries the exhaust gases
to EGR Valve which then passes to EGR Cooler assembly to get cooled before sending to Intake
manifold. EGR Valve is vacuum operated and it controls the supply of exhaust gases.
Page 76
Trouble Shooting
Before going into the specifics of the cooling system it is worthwhile to find out under which driving
conditions the complaints is present.
Some of the causes are:
 Prolonged /excess idling

 Very high ambient temperature
 Slow traffic
 Traffic jams
 High speed
 Steep Gradients
To avoid overheating under such conditions it will be worthwhile to:

Idle with the AC off. In case the temperature indicator needle is close to the red band.
Increase the engine idling speed.

Noise Fan shroud  Reposition the shroud and inspect
1. Fan contacting the the engine insulators.
shroud
Water pump
1. Loose water pump  Replace the water pump.
impeller.
2. Water pump bearing  Replace water pump.
worn/ failure.
3. Loose mounting of pump  Tighten mounting bolt
Belts
1. Belt loose  Tighten belt
2. Glazed/stretched fan  Replace serpentine belt,
belt.
3. Rough surface on drive  Replace pulley.
pulley.
4. Belt alignment  Check the belt alignment & rectify.
Alternator/Water pump
1. Alternator bearing  Replace alternator bearing
failure
Belt tension mechanism
1. Idler pulley bearing  Replace idler bearing.
failure
2. Idler mounting bracket  Replace the idler bracket.
failure.
3. Tension bolt failure.  Replace the tension bolt.
Coolant loss- boil over Coolant

1. Overfilled recovery tank.  Reduce the coolant level.
2. Insufficient coolant  Add the additive.
additive causing lower
boiling points.
3. Additive deteriorated
due to aging/  Replace the coolant
contamination.
4. Low coolant level.  Add coolant
Page 77
Hot shut down
1. Quick shut downs after a  Allow the engine to run at idle for
long and hot run. some time before stopping.
Leakage’s
1. Leaks due to loose hose  Find the area of leaks , replace hose
clamps. Loose nuts, bolts or if necessary the clamp also
drain plugs, faulty hose  Pressure tests the system to check
or leaking radiators. for leaks and then repair as
Blockages necessary.
1. Casting flash in the  The flash may be visible by
block. removing the cooling system
2. Casting flash in the components or the core plugs.
cylinder head. Repair or replace.
3. Blocked radiator causing  Flush radiator.
under filling of the
cooling system.
4. Air trapped in system.  Purge the system.
5. Air in the system causing
occasional burping.  Purge the system.
6. Faulty expansion bottle  Replace the cap/ pipe.
cap or pipe.
Coolant loss- boil over Gas mixing
1. Cylinder head gasket  Replace the cylinder head gasket
failure.
Pressurization
1. Defective radiator cap.  Replace the cap.
Timing
1. Improper engine timing  Check the engine timing, FIP timing,
injector pressure and also the
Belt tappet clearance.
1. Slipping belts  Adjust belt tension.
2. Belt failure  Replace belt
Water pump
1. Water pump shaft  Replace water pump
broken or damaged
impeller.
Thermostat
1. Faulty Thermostat.  Replace Thermostat.
Hoses.
1. Radiator hoses collapsed  Replace hoses.
Fan
1. Cooling fan not  Check the functioning of the VFD
engaging. replace if required.
Air flow
1. Air flow reduced to  Clean the radiator fins.
choked fins
2. Airflow reduced due to  Remove the obstruction.
obstruction.
Vehicle
Brakes dragging.  Check the brake system.
Page 78
High Temperature Improper indication
Indication 1. Faulty sensor  Replace the sensor.
2. Faulty gauge  Replace the gauge
Coolant entry into 1. Low cylinder head  Replace the cylinder head gasket,
Crankcase or cylinder torque. torque as per procedure.
2. Faulty head gasket.  Replace the cylinder head gasket
3. Blow hole in crankcase,  Replace the affected part.
head , liner
Low Temperature Gauge 1. Thermostat stuck open  Replace thermostat.
Indication- Under cooling 2. Faulty sensor.  Replace sensor.
3. Faulty gauge.  Replace gauge.
Coolant reserve system 1. Coolant level low  Replenish coolant to FULL level.
inoperative 2. Leak in system  Pressure test to isolate & repair.
3. Overflow tube clogged  Remove clogging
or leaking.
4. Recovery bottle vent  Clean vent.
blocked.
5. Radiator cap defective.  Change the cap.
No coolant flow trough 1. Restricted return inlet in  Remove restriction.
Heater Core water pump.
2. Heater hoses collapsed  Remove restriction or replace hose.
or restricted.
3. Restricted heater core.  Remove flash or restriction.
4. Restricted outlet in the  Remove restriction.
thermostat housing.
5. Heater valve controls not  Repair controls.
functioning.
6. Heater valve stuck.  Repair or replace
Page 79
Care of the System
Following are the regular maintenance activities to be carried in Cooling System -
COOLANT LEVEL & LEAK – INSPECT

Coolant – MAXIMILE Ultra Cool (Pre-mixed) Capacity – 8.0 Lit.
2
1
------------
HIGH
------------
LOW
COOLANT LEVEL - INSPECT

Refer illustrations shown.
• Check the coolant level when the engine is cold.
• Check the coolant level in the recovery tank [2] – it should be between HIGH and LOW
marks. If below MIN, top it up with Maximile Coolant.
• Check the coolant level in the radiator [1] and top up if found less. Use MAXIMILE Ultra
Coolant directly from the container to top up. Maximile Ultra Coolant is pre-mixed and
hence do not dilute it with water.
• Check for evidence of leakage at Water pump hose, thermostat hose, and Oil cooler
hose [3]. Radiator top and bottom hoses and HVAC heater hoses.
• Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot.

• Never mix MAXIMILE Ultra coolant with water. It is pre-mixed.
• Replace coolant at every 60,000kms.
• If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is disconnected before
lifting the vehicle. After lowering, re-connect the LSPV spring and ensure that the
setting height is correct.
Page 80
COOLANT – REPLACE
A B
DRAIN PLUG ON ENGINE BLOCK
DRAIN COCK ON RADIATOR
Coolant – MAXIMILE Coolant (Pre-mixed) Capacity – 10 Lit.

COOLANT – REPLACE. Refer illustrations shown A, B and C.
1. Open the radiator cap

2. Remove the drain plug on the Radiator bottom [C] and Engine block [B]
3. Drain the coolant and collect in drain tray.
4. Refit the drain plugs & fill new coolant in radiator
5. Check all the hoses & clips for leakage and correct fitment.
6. Start the engine and run at approx. 1200rpm for 2-3 min.
7. Check coolant level in radiator and add coolant as per requirement.
8. Fill coolant in the coolant recovery tank up to MAX level
9. Refit the radiator cap.
10. Start the engine and run at approx. 1200rpm for 2-3 min.
11. Check coolant level in radiator and coolant recovery tank and add as required
• Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot.

• Never mix MAXIMILE coolant with water. It is pre-mixed.
• Replace coolant at every 40000kms.
lifting the vehicle. After lowering, re-connect the LSPV spring and ensure that the setting
height is correct.
Page 81
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT – INSPECT
(Water Pump/ Alternator Drive Belt)
(Belt Type & Make: 7 PK - 1790. Gates HPHW belt)
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT TO

BE CHECK FOR –
Refer illustrations below.
1. Abrasion
2. Cracking
3. Improper Install
4. Uneven Rib Wear
5. Misalignment
6. Chunk-out
7. Gravel penetration
8. Pilling
NEF 2.49L CRDe – Accessory Drive Belts

• Abrasion – Each side of belt appears shiny or glazed. In advanced stages, fabric becomes
exposed.
• Cracking – Small, yet visible cracks along the length of a rib or ribs.
• Misalignment – Sidewalls of the belt may appear glazed or the edge cord may become
frayed and ribs removed. A noise may result. In severe cases, the belt can jump off the
pulley.
• Improper Install – A belt rib begins separating from the joined strands. If left unattended,
the cover will often separate, causing the belt to loosen.
Page 82
• Uneven Rib Wear – Belt shows damage to the side with the possibility of breaks in the
tensile cord or rough edged ribs. A thumping noise may also be heard when running.
• Chunk Out – Pieces or chunks of rubber material have broken off from the belt. When
chunk-out has occurred, a belt can fall at any moment.
• Inspect Accessory drive belts first at 5,000kms, 10,000kms

and then at every 10,000kms. Replace it at every 80,000kms.
• Inspect Power Steering drive belt at 5,000 & 20,000 kms and
then at every 20,000kms. Replace it at every 1,00,000 kms.

• Gravel Penetration – Small pinholes are visible on the backside of the belt. Bumps may
be visible and the fabric around the holes can be frayed.
• Pilling – Belt material is sheared off from the ribs and builds up in the belt grooves.
Page 83
In Car Repairs
Following activities are covered in this section –
• Accessory drive belt tension adjustment
• Accessory drive belt replacement
• Idler & Tensioner Bearing – Inspect
• Idler & Tensioner Bearing - Replace
• Fan Blade & the viscous fan drive removal & fitment
• Water pump removal
• Radiator removal
Page 84
ACCESSORY BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT –
1. Check the Belt Tension…

- Turn on the Belt Tension Gauge, select reading mode in Hertz (Hz) & hold the probe
approximately 5mm distance in Front of the belt ( CAUTION: Do not touch the probe to the
belt, this can damage the probe!) as shown in the illustration above by X.
- Tap on the belt near the probe.
- Note the reading. If the reading is within 125 TO 145, this should be OK.
- If the reading is less than 125 Hz then it needs adjustment.
2. Adjust the belt tension ….

2.A - Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut.
2.B – Tighten the Belt Tensioning Bolt.
2.C - Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Shaft Nut
3. Repeat the procedure as per the Step-1

- If the belt tension value should be 140+5 Hz.
- If the value is less than 140+5 Hz, Repeat the Steps 2 & 3.
Page 85
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT – REPLACE
(Water Pump/ Alternator Drive Belt)
(Belt Type & Make: 7 PK - 1790. Gates HPHW belt)
Cooling Fan mtg. nut 01 34 mm. 45± 05
Removal Steps –
Refer illustration shown.
• Remove NVH cover.
• Remove Fan & shroud.
• Remove Steering Pump drive belt
• Refer 900-MAT-0110.
• Loosen the manual tensioner tightening
bolt [1] shown in photo.
• Remove manual tensioner assy.
• Remove drive belt.
NOTE: Accessory drive belt to be replaced at
every 80,000kms.
A Alt/ Water Pump Drive Belt
Manual
Tensioner Accessory Drive Belt - Layout
Assembly Procedure – Refer illustrations shown.

• Checks drive belt condition before installing it. Refer (900-MAT-0100)
• Align the drive belt with Water pump/ Alt. & Compressor pulleys.
• Re-tight manual tensioner assembly, by tightening adjusting bolt [1].
• Check belt tension. To be measure on a span of 251 mm between Alternator & AC
Compressor.
• Values: New Belt: 170±2 Hz; Minimum allowable belt tension: 125 Hz.
• Refit & Check Steering pump drive belt & its tensioning (900-MAT-0110).
1. Refit Fan & shroud.
2. Refit NVH cover.
NOTE: Replace accessory belt at every 80000 kms.
Page 86
IDLER & TENSIONER BEARING – INSPECT
DUMMY
PULLEY
Accessory Drive Belt, Manual Tensioner & Idler - Layout
IDLER & TENSIONER BEARING – INSPECT.
Refer above illustration.

• Bearings may complain the noise is usually speed-specific; Check if the noise varies
according to the engine speed.
• Check bearings for clicks, rumbles and groans that vary with vehicle speed may
indicate a bearing that has lost its ability to handle the load.
• The shiny surface of a bearing is especially hardened and should be a uniform colour.
• Hot spots, different colour lines or scoring indicate wear through to the softer metal
underneath.
• The worst-case scenario of bearing failure is excessive heat build up.
Page 87
IDLER & TENSIONER BEARING – REPLACE
Cooling Fan mtg. nut 01 34 mm. 45± 05
Idler & Tensioner Bearing - Dismantling
IDLER & TENSIONER BEARING – REPLACE

• Remove NVH cover, Fan and shroud.
• Remove Steering Pump drive belt. Refer (900-MAT-0110)
• Loosen the Tensioner bolt to relieve the tension.
• Loosen the Tensioner Pulley Nut. Take out the pulley assembly with Dust Shield, washer
& take the belt out. Loosen the Idler Pulley Bolt. Take out the pulley assembly with Dust
Shield & washer.
• Remove the Circlip from the Tensioner Pulley Assembly & take the bearing out. Install the
new bearing in the pulley on a hand press & fit the circlip. Repeat the procedure for Idler
Pulley Bearing too.
• Put back the Idler Pulley Assembly along with dust shield & washer on the bracket, hand
tightens the Bolt.
• Put the belt in place & fit the Tensioner Pulley Assembly along with dust shield & washer
on the bracket, hand tighten the nut.
• Tighten the Tensioner Pulley Nut as well as Idler Pulley Bolt with torque of 32.5 ±2.5 Nm.
Tighten the Tensioner Bolt so as to get the specified belt tension; follow Maintenance
Procedure: Refer (900-MAT-0120) for checking / adjusting the belt tension.
• Refit the accessory drive belt & steering pump drive belt. (900-MAT-0120)
• Refit Fan, Shroud & NVH cover.
NOTE: Idler & Tensioner Bearing to be replaced at every 80,000 kms.
Page 88
Fan Blade & viscous fan drive assembly removal –
Caution: Do not remove the fan belt before removing

the nut.
Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads.

Hence to loosen then the direction of rotation has to
be clockwise when viewed from front
removed together.
Water Pump removal –
Do not remove the cylinder block drain plate or the

radiator drain cock with the system hot and
pressurized. Serious burns from the splashing of hot
coolant can occur.
Before draining the system. The system pressure has

to be relieved.
Holding the radiator cap with a rag slowly open the
radiator cap.
The water may splash upward causing injury
Remove the fan blade
Remove the fan belt
Remove the thermostat housing along with the

thermostat after removing the mounting bolts.
Remove the inlet and outlet hoses.
Page 89
Remove the HVAC return line from the water pump

inlet.
Remove the hose connecting the oil cooler to the

water pump.
Remove the water pump assembly after removing

the mounting bolts.
While assembly, ensure that the “O” ring is seated

securely and does not fall down.
Radiator Removal & Re-fitment –
Do not remove the cylinder block drain plate or the

radiator drain cock with the system hot and
pressurized. Serious burns from the splashing coolant
can occur.
Before draining the system. The system pressure has
to be relieved.
Holding the radiator cap with a rag slowly open the
radiator cap.
The water may splash upward causing injury
Remove the radiator inlet and outlet hose
Page 90
Remove the inlet and outlet hose for the intercooler.
Remove the fan shroud.
Remove the condenser mounting bolts.
Remove the radiator mounting bolts and remove the

radiator along with the pipe connecting it to the no
loss tank.
Page 91
Dismantling & Assembly of the Cooling System
• Water Pump
• Viscous Fan Drive
Do not remove the radiator drain cock or the Engine coolant plate drain with the engine in hot
condition.
Always remove the pressure on the system by removing the radiator cap before undertaking any
work on the cooling system.
If the coolant is not contaminated then collect the coolant in a clean container so that it can be
reused. Replace coolant as per recommendation
Water pump –
A centrifugal water pump is used to circulate the coolant through the water jackets, cylinder head,
hoses and radiator. The water pump is belt driven by the engine main drive pulley. It ratio of pulley
diameter ensures that the water pump rotates 1.30 times the engine speed.
The water pump impeller is pressed onto the shaft. The shaft is supported on two bearings that are
integral to the shaft.
The water pump seal is located between the impeller and the housing. The housing has a small hole to
allow the seepage to escape. That also acts as an indication point if the water pump seal fails.
Water pump removal & Refitment.

The water pump is not serviceable and has to be changed as an assembly.
Viscous Fan Drive Operation –
The viscous drive unit for the engine-cooling fan provides a means for controlling the speed of the fan
relative to the temperature of the engine. The viscous fan unit is a type of fluid coupling, which drives
the fan blade by means of silicone fluid
There are two main components of the viscous fan drive: input (drive member), which consist of a
threaded shaft passing through a bearing into the clutch plate and secured to the water pump. The
output (driven) member comprises of the main body to which the fan is attached, with the
temperature sensing mechanism (bimetal coil) and pump plates.
The fan drive has to be engaged only periodically, between 5 to 10% of the normal operating
conditions because the rest of the time the vehicle cools itself by ram air-cooling.
Page 92
To engage and disengage the fan drive the bi metal coil senses the air temperature behind the
radiator. When a pre determined temperature is reached, the coil opens a valve, which allows the
fluid to enter the drive area and due to centrifugal forces circulate to the annular drive area
There are two sets of annular grooves. , One in the drive clutch and the other in the drive body, a
specific clearance being provided between two sets of grooves. When this clearance is filled with
viscous fluid a shearing action caused by the speed differential between the two drive components,
transmit the torque to the fan. The fluid is thrown to the outside of the unit by the centrifugal force
from where it is recirculated to the reservoir via the pump plate adjacent to the drive member.
If the engine sped is increased the amount of slip will also increase to limit the maximum fan speed.
When the air temperature from the radiator drops sufficiently, the bi metal coil closes the valve and
prevents fluid entering the drive area. The fluid that is in the drive area will gradually pump out into
the reservoir and the fan will return to an idle condition
Checking the VFD –
This procedure will only give an indication that the fan is cutting in and out, but will not be able to
check the accuracy of the cut in temperature.
Depending on the level of the test equipment there are several ways to check the if the fan is working
correctly.
Using a non-contact tachometer –
1. Run the engine at idle without any load for approximately 3 minutes, for example at 2000 rpm,
observer the fan drive speed. In the disengaged mode the fan speed will be approximately 800
rpm. By running for 3 minutes it will ensure that the fan drive has pumped out the silicone fluid
into the reservoir and that the fan drive will be in the cut out ( idle)
2. Either
(a) Blank the radiator by using a sheet of cardboard, which has a 15-cm hole, cut out of in line
with the center of the fan drive. This will allow a flow of air on the bimetal coil and the
cardboard will allow the radiator to heat up quickly.
Keep a check on the vehicle temperature gauge and let the water temperature rise to about
105°C. this will ensure that the fan drive will engage
(b) Using a commercial hot air blower, which will provide a hot air flow of at least 75°C, direct the
air on to the centers of the fan drive through the radiator. Keep the hot air on for several minutes.
This will cut the fan drive in, and the fan speed will increase. It is important that only a powerful
blower is used so that the hot air should reach the fan drive after going the radiator at the correct
temperature.
3. Once the fan drive has become engaged by either method (a) or (b). Check the fan speed with the
non-contact tachometer. At 2000 rpm input speed the fan speed should be 1800 rpm.
Testing without a non-contact tachometer –
4. Use the same method explained in step 2, but this time listen to the noise level generated by the
fan. With the fan in the idle condition the noise level should be very low, however when the fan
speed increases in the engaged mode there will be a significant roar from the fan. This will clearly
indicate if the fan drive is working.
Page 93
If the fan drive fails to engage during these tests, there is something wrong with the VFD (Viscous Fan
Drive). The unit should be replaced.
While returning the failed unit (to Plant for vehicles under warranty) take care to see that the unit is
packed with the sensing coil facing down and sent in the same way. If this is not observed then the
silicone fluid will flow down to bearing, damaging the bearing and also making it impossible to do any
investigation.
Viscous Fan Drive removal –
Caution: Do not remove the fan belt before the

removing the nut.
Remove the shroud.
Loosen the clutch fan nut.
Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads.

Hence to loosen then the direction of rotation has to
be clockwise when viewed from front

removed together.
Note: The VFD assembly should be kept in 2 positions
only.
As far as possible – in vertical plane.

If in horizontal then the bimetallic strip should be
facing down.
If stored in horizontal position resting on the nut

face then the silicone fluid will flow down to the
bearing assembly and result in contamination of the
bearing’s lubricant.
Page 94
A detailed drive belt analysis is given below –
Symptom Possible reasons Correction

Rib chunking (One or more 1. Foreign objects embedded  Remove foreign objects from
ribs has separated from belt in pulley groove pulley grooves. Replace belt
body)- Chunking happens 2. Installation damage.  Replace belt.
when several cracks in one 3. Poor surface of grooves in  Clean pulley, replace if required.
area of rib move parallel to pulley.
the cord line.
Piling- happens when the 1. Lack of tension  Adjust tension
material is sheared off the 2. Misalignment of pulleys  Correct the alignment.
undercord and builds up in 3. Worn out pulleys
the groove. 4. Excessive tension.
Rib or belt wear. 1. Pulley or pulley’s mis  Correct the alignment.

aligned.  Clean pulleys- replace if required.
2. Abrasive environment  Change pulley.
3. Rusted pulley’s  Replace belt.
4. Sharp or jagged pulley
groove tips.
5. Poor surface finish.
Tooth shear 1. Low belt tension  Correct the tension.

2. Seizure of driven part.  Replace belt.
3. Misalignment.  Align pulleys
Tooth Wear 1. Incorrect tension  Adjust tension.
2. Worn out pulleys  Change pulleys
Longitudinal Belt cracking 1. Belt has mis-tracked from  Replace belt.
(Cracks between two ribs.) pulley groove.  Change pulley.
2. Pulley groove tip has worn
out the rubber to tensile
member.
Belt slips 1. Belts slipping because of  Adjust belt tension.
insufficient tension  Clean pulleys.
2. Belt or pulley subjected to  Replace the failed components.
substances that reduce the  Replace belt
belt life ( oil, grease,
ethylene alcohol)
3. Driven component’s
bearing failure.
4. Belt hardened and glazed
from heat and excessive
slippage.
Groove jumping ( belt does 1. Belt tensions either too  Adjust belt tension.
not maintain correct position high or too low.  Replace pulleys.
on pulley) 2. Pulleys not within design  Clean pulleys.
tolerances.  Correct the alignment
3. Foreign objects in groove.  Replace belt.
4. Pulley misalignment,
5. Belt cord line is broken.
Belt broken 1. Excessive tension.  Adjust belt tension

2. Tensile members damaged  Correct the alignment
Page 95
during installation.  Replace the failed component.
3. Severe misalignment.
4. Bracket pulley or bearing
failure.
Noise 1. Belt slippage  Adjust belt.
Objectionable squeak, squeal 2. Bearing noise  Replace the defective bearing.
rumble heard or felt while 3. Belt mis alignment  Adjust alignment.
drive belt is in operation 4. Belt to pulley mismatch.  Use the correct belt.
5. Driven component induced  Vary belt tension within
vibration specifications.
6. System resonant frequency  Replace belt.
induced vibration.
Tensile failure 1. Tension sheeting  Correct rubbing condition.
contacting stationary  Replace belt.
object.  Correct the tension.
2. Excessive heat causing  Replace pulley.
woven fabric to age.
3. Excessive installation
tension.
4. Foreign body in drive.
5. Belt crimped due to
improper handling.
6. Tension sheathing splice
has fractured.
Oil contamination 1. Oil leaks.  Correct the oil leak condition.
Cord edge failure ( Tensile 2. Excessive tension  Adjust tension.

member exposed at edges of 3. Belt contacting stationary  Remove the stationary objects
belt or separated from Belt object. fouling.
body) 4. Pulleys out of tolerance.  Replace pulleys.
5. Insufficient adhesion  Replace pulley.
between tensile member &
rubber matrix.
Page 96
Parameter Description/ Value

Radiator capacity 2.15 liters
Cooling system capacity 9.3 liters
Coolant to be added after draining/flushing 2.79 liters
Viscous Fan Drive 75°C of air temperature at Sensor
- fan starts at ( For reference only) Input speed – 3600 rpm
Viscous Fan Drive 35°C of air temperature at Sensor
- fan stops at ( For reference Only) Input speed – 1300 rpm
Input speed of Fan pulley 1.30 x Engine speed.
Fan Belt tension New installation –165 ± 2 Hz
Stabilized –134 Hz Min
Fan Belt tension - Gates make New installation –170 ± 5 Hz
Stabilized –140 Hz Min
Cooling system : Liquid cooling system
Nature of coolant/ liquid and capacity Ethylene Glycol based coolent & water in ratio
30:70, Capacity 4.2 litr. (Only engine).
Characteristics of Circulating pump or make(s) & Autolec Industries, Chennai,
type(s) Centrifugal Pump
Drive ratio 1.3
Thermostat type and setting Wax type, starts open at 820C and fully open at 960C
Radiator :
Type(s) Cross flow, Aluminium radiator.
Relief valve pressure setting 0.9 bar
Nos. of blades 11
Materials of blades (metal / Plastic) Plastic
Types(s) (Fixed/Viscous/Eletrical driven) Viscous
Fan drive system Belt drive
Drive ratio 1.3
Fan cowl Provided.
Fan diameter (mm) 400
Max. speed of fan (in rev/min) 5500 +/-100 rpm
Radiator core open area, cm2 2200
Max temp. at engine outlet 106 °C
Max. outlet temperature of the intercooled- air 75 °C measured at 75 mm from Intercooler outlet
(Location of measurement to be specified).
Max. exhaust temperature
(in case of diesel engines, at the point in the
exhaust pipe(s) adjacent in outlet flange(s) of 650 °C at 150mm from Turbocharger outlet flange.
exhaust manifolds),specify the distance from the
oulet flange.
Location Torque in Nm
Viscous Fan clutch nut 45 ± 5 Nm (33 ± 4 lbf-ft)
Page 97
Fuel System
Table of Content
Description…………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Trouble Shooting………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Care of the System……………………………………………………………………………………………..
In Car Repairs……………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Dismantling, Inspection & overhaul of the Fuel Injection Equipment………………….
Technical Specification…….…………………………………………………………………………………
Torque Specification…………..………………………………………………………………………………
Page 98
Description
The fuel system can be divided into following subgroups.

 Fuel filling.
 Fuel supply from tank to High Pressure pump.
 High Pressure Pump & injectors including the High pressure pipes.
 Return line from High Pressure Pump to tank.
The fuel is filled from the opening provided at rear left. The fuel cap is ventilated and threaded type.
The cap is locked in place when further turning action result in clicking of the ratchet. The fuel tank lid
is electrically operated. The switch is fitted on the centre bezel.
While filling the tank, the air entrapped inside is vented by the vent tube, which is connected at the
mouth of the inlet pipe. The venting is done from the highest point in the fuel tank. The fuel tank has a
capacity of 58 liters.
During operation the fuel pump due to the vacuum created by the internal feed pump the fuel is
sucked through the filter, to the high pressure pump.
The high pressure pump, pressurizes, & supplies the fuel to the common rail. The fuel then comes to
the injectors.
The fuel back leak from injectors and return from HPP comes through return line.
The entire length of the fuel tank is protected at the bottom by a stone guard.
For the detailed understanding of the Common rail system, please refer the Common Rail System
(CR System) explained separately.
Page 99
Trouble Shooting

Engine will not start & 1. Clogged fuel filter/ fuel  Change fuel filter
emit black smoke lines  Check fuel supply line.
2. Defective injectors  Refer diagnostic manual
Noisy engine & black 1. Injector coking.  Clean external coking

smoke. 2. CR System  Refer the diagnostic manual
Engine speed falls off. 1. Clogged fuel filter/ fuel  Change fuel filter
lines  Check fuel supply line.
2.  Refer diagnostic manual.
Engine does not give full 1. Clogged fuel filter/ fuel  Change fuel filter
power. lines  Check fuel supply line.
2. Defective injectors.  Replace filters.
3.  Locate the kink/block in return
pipe and rectify.
 Refer diagnostic manual
Black smoke. 1. Defective injectors  Check injectors.

2. CR system  Refer diagnostic.
Engine will not start 1. Weak battery  Check the battery specific gravity.
2. Corroded or loose battery  Clean & tighten battery
connection connections.
3. Faulty starter.  Repair starter.
4. CR system  Refer diagnostic manual.
Page 100
Care of the System
The fuel injection system depends on supply of clean diesel fuel for the proper functioning of the fuel
system.
To ensure that High Pressure Pump receives clean fuel all the times it is advisable that the fuel filter is
replaced at the specified intervals.
The fuel filter should be changed at every 20,000 Kms. If the operating conditions are poor then
reduce the change interval. The fuel filter is equipped with water separator. If the water level
indication comes on in the instrument panel, then the water should be immediately drained.
The internal components of the High Pressure Pump depend on the lubricating properties of diesel for
lubricating them. Hence, if water is present in the fuel then lubrication between the component break
down and there is seizure.
Following activities are covered under regular maintenance in fuel system –
1. FUEL FILTER ELEMENT – REPLACE
2. FUEL TANK & STRAINER – CLEAN
3. FUEL FILTER – DRAIN WATER SEDIMENTS
Page 101
FUEL FILTER ELEMENT – REPLACE
Fuel Filter assembly Fuel Filter assembly - Dismantling
FUEL FILTER – REPLACE Refer above illustrations shown -

• Remove the ‘Water in Fuel Sensor’ [2] at the bottom of the Fuel Filter element
• Remove the Fuel Filter Element [1]
• Fit a new fuel filter element and tighten it by hand [4]
• Refit the “Water in fuel” sensor [3]
• Remove the fuel tank cap
• Switch the Ignition to ‘ON’ position
• Bleed the system using hand primer and bleed screw on the banjo.
• Fuel filter element to be replaced at every 20000kms.

lifting the vehicle. After lowering, re-connect the LSPV spring and ensure that the
setting height is correct.
Page 102
FUEL TANK & STRAINER – CLEAN
Thar CRDe - Fuel Tank

Hose Connections
FUEL TANK MOUNTING ON CHASSIS FRAME
UEL TANK & STRAINER – CLEAN

• Drain fuel by removing drain plug.
• Ensure for complete fuel drain and Refit the drain plug.(27.5 ± 2.5 Nm)
• Disconnect the fuel lines – Main and return line hoses.
• Disconnect the fuel filler hose and the breather hose
• Disconnect the tank unit connector
• Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle, refer sketch.
• Remove the ‘Fuel Strainer with main line assembly’ by removing the fastening bolts.
• Blow the compressed air gradually with low pressure through disassembled fuel tank
lines, main line, return line and breather hose.
• Clean the fuel tank.
• Refit the fuel tank and reconnect the main line, return line, filler hose, breather hose
and tank unit connections.
1. Refill fuel in the fuel tank. (Fuel tank MAX capacity is approximately @ 60 lit.)
2. Bleed the fuel system.
• Fuel tank & strainer to be cleaned at every 80000kms.

height is correct.
Page 103
FUEL FILTER – DRAIN WATER SEDIMENTS
Thar CRDe – Fuel Filter Assembly Thar CRDe – Fuel Filter water sediment drain
FUEL FILTER – DRAIN WATER SEDIMENTS

Refer above illustrations.
1. Loosen Water in Fuel Sensor at the bottom of the Fuel Filter by 2 turns [1]
2. Allow the Water accumulated in the filter to drain out.
3. Tighten the Water in Fuel Sensor [2]
• Drain water sediments from fuel filter at every service after 10000kms.
height is correct.
Page 104
In Car Repairs
The In Car repairs which can be carried out are:
• Removal of Injectors
• Removal of High Pressure Pump
Removal of Injector –
Loosen the high-pressure pipes from both the
common rail end & injectors.
NOTE:
Avoid loosening only at one end as it can cause strain
in the pipes, while removing the injectors.
Remove the leak off pipe.
Remove the wiring harness socket from Injectors.
Remove the injector clamp by removing allen bolt.
Remove the injector assembly.
• While refitting, the injector use a new washer between the injector & cylinder
head.(Thickness of washer should be 3mm)
• Avoid using two-injector washer. Normally it tends to happen if the older washer is not
removed and has got stuck to cylinder head.
• It will change the injector tip height to change and affect combustion.
Page 105
Removal of High Pressure Pump –
Remove tappet cover.
Bring the 1st cylinder in compression.
(To confirm the first cylinder TDC position remove the

1st cylinder injector, insert the MST and the dial gauge.
Check by the dial if the piston is in TDC)
Remove the VFD assembly along with the fan blade

assembly.
Remove the fan belt.
Remove the injector pipes.
Page 106
Remove the HP Pump front cover from front timing

cover.
Loosen & remove the High Pressure Pump locking nut.
Remove the High Pressure Pump using the pusher.
NOTE:
Refer illustration for HP Pump pusher and its mounting.
Page 107
Technical Specification
Fuel temperature 0C: (for diesel engine at the injection pump inlet.)
Minimum -10 °C
Maximum 70 °C
Fuel feed: {By fuel injection}
Injection system description Common Rail Direct Injection.
Working principle: intake manifold/ direct Direct Injection
injection/ injection pre-chamber/swirl
chamber/others
Fuel Pump
Make(s) and Country of origin (if imported) Bosch, India.
HP Pump & ECU Type Bosch CRS 2.2/ CP1H with EDC 16C
1. Radial plunger High Pressure Pump.
Part ID No: 0 445 010 131
2. Common Rail
Part ID No: 0 445 214 168.
Pressure / Characteristic diagram Electronic controlled
Injection advance curve (Diagram to be Electronic controlled.
enclosed.)
Injectors
Type(s) (mention holder, nozzle Solenoid type
Make and Country of origin Bosch, India.
Injection piping
Length mm 1) Pump to rail = 400 mm,
2) Rail to Injector = 250 mm
Internal diameter mm 1) Pump to rail = 3.0 mm,
2) Rail to Injector = 2.4 mm
Location Torque in Nm (lbf-ft)

High pressure pipe pump to Rail 20 ± 2 Nm ( 15±1 lbf-ft)
High pressure pipe to Rail 35 Nm (26 lbf-ft)
High Pressure Pipe to injector 27±2 Nm (20± 1 lbf-ft)
Injector holder clamping 25±3 Nm (18 ± 2 lbf-ft)
Rail mounting on intake manifold 22.5±2.5 Nm ( 16.5 ± 2 lbf-ft)
Page 108
Emission Control System
Table of Content
Description…………………………………………………………………………….………………
Trouble Shooting……………………………………………….....................………………
Care of the System………………………………………………………………..………………
In Car Repairs………………………………………………………………………..………………
Technical Specification..............................................................................
Page 109
Description
The THAR CRDe engine meets the BS IV emission norms. To control the NOx an Exhaust gas
recirculation is used. Overall, two systems are used.
• Working Principle of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Vacuum
Modulator
E Exhaust Air
Temperature
Sensor C
RPM sensor
U Engine
EGR
Load Sensor
Air flow Intake Air
Vacuum
pump
During acceleration and in higher loads the engine generates high combustion temperatures. The high
combustion temperatures increase the NOx generation. The higher percentage of NOx generated in
the combustion chamber come out through the tail pipe spreads in the atmosphere.
To reduce the amount of NOx coming through the tail pipe the EGR system adds exhaust gases into
the fresh air that is going into the combustion chamber. Since the exhaust, gas is already burnt hence
when mixed with fresh air acts an inert gas. Thus when the exhaust gas mixed with fresh air enters the
combustion chamber. The role it does is that it reduces the amount of oxygen available for
combustion. The net effect is that it reduces the peak combustion temperatures. This results in lower
amount of NOx being generated.
To control the amount/percentage of exhaust gases to be circulated back to the combustion chamber
an ECU is used. The ECU monitors the coolant temperature, attitude, engine speed, and accelerator
pedal position. Based on the above parameters the ECU operates a switch that in turn controls the
amount of vacuum going to the EGR valve. The amount of vacuum applied controls the lift of the EGR
valve through vacuum modulator.
The inputs of the engine speed (from the Engine RPM Sensor); Throttle position (accelerator pedal
sensor) is fed in one map. Another map uses the throttle position and correlate in terms of the
acceleration. The third map uses the water temperature. The inputs from the 3 maps are added
together to give an input to the EGR pressure modulator.
At the same time it has a set point that if the water temperature is less than 25 ° C or more than
95°C. Then the EGR will not be operated.
Page 110
The acceleration map ensures that if the rate of acceleration is above a certain level then the EGR will
not operate. This feature allows full engine power to be available during acceleration (say during
overtaking).
The Engine ECU controls the EGR. The vacuum connections are shown below.
Working principle of Crankcase Ventilation System –
Functional blcok diagram of the Crankcase ventialtion is given below –
The ventilation system is closed ventilation type.
The oil vapours from the rocker cover go to the labyrinth type oil separator, which is mounted directly
on top of the cam cover. The outlet from the labyrinth is connected in series to a centrifugal type oil
separator.
The collected oil is drained back to the sump. The gases enter the intake system in between the air
cleaner and the turbocharger.
Certain amount of oil will be carried from the oil separator to the Air inlet hose, which is normal.
However if it is excessive please look for all the causes mentioned in the high blow bye.
THAR CRDe - Vacuum Hoses Connections Layout
Page 111
Trouble Shooting
Engine does not give full 1. Gas leak between EGR pipe  Change the gasket or the hose.
power. joints.  Change the pipe.
2. EGR pipe leak.  Check the EGR using the blink
3. EGR valve improper codes. Proceed appropriately.
functioning.  Ensure vacuum connections at
4. Vacuum hose crack, loose, vacuum modulator, reservoir,
fallen off and alternator.
Noisy engine & high 1. Cylinder head gasket  Replace the cylinder head gasket.
smoke defective.  Lap the valve seats or regrind.
2. Worn out or damaged valve
seats.  Tighten the injector pipe.
3. Leaking injector pipe/ HP
pipe.  Confirm & check
4. Leakage at EGR Valve flange -Gasket condition
face, exhaust manifold and - Bolt torque.
EGR pipe end.
Black smoke. 1. EGR valve stuck open  Check the EGR valve-
physically.
Excessive oil 1. Cracked vacuum line hoses  Check the vacuum line from the
consumption Pump to the EGR valve - check
for leaks, crack. Replace cracked
2. Restriction in crankcase hoses.
breather.  Locate & remove restriction.
 Check the crankcase ventilation
3. Damaged oil separator & rectify.
4. Bend/kink in any of the oil  Replace the oil separator
return pipe’s/vacuum hoses.  Change the vacuum hoses.
 Remove the bend or kinks.
Page 112
Care of the System
To meet the emission norms it is essential that the Fuel system, Air intake system & cooling system be
maintained as per the schedule .For details refer to the particular sections.
Generally it is not appreciated that if the engine is running below the optimum temperature (happens
when thermostat is removed then tailpipe emissions in particular the particulate increases (up to
30%). Similarly a wrong grade or poor quality of fuel increases the emissions. A blocked air cleaner or
restriction in intake system increases the emissions.
Oil separator system: Check the hose connection at every 10,000 Kms for cracks, aging and leaks.
EGR:
On vehicles fitted with EGR system the following additional points check have to done during
scheduled maintenance.
• Check for any exhaust gas leakage through sealing faces, EGR pipe. Formation of any black
soot indicates leakage.
• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.
• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.
If the pipes are removed then it is essential that while fitting back new gaskets is used. Do not open
the pipe from one end only; it will cause the pipe to twist. If the EGR pipe has to be removed, then
open from both the ends.
The EGR operation is controlling by Engine ECU. Hence it is prone to get damaged if spikes are
generated in the system. It is advised that the following precautions be taken.
♦ If any welding work is being carried out on the vehicle then the battery terminals needs to be
removed.
♦ Similarly, the practices of shorting the battery to check the battery have to be avoided. (It can
cause a spike.).
♦ The practice of changing battery with a running engine is also not acceptable. Again, the resultant
spike can damage the ECU beyond repairs.
EGR Valve
Remove the EGR valve and check it valve-sticking, deposition of carbon etc. If excess carbon deposits
and sticky valve noticed then it should be cleaned with a suitable solvent, so that the correct valve
seat is ensured.
After cleaning the valve blow air from the bottom side of the valve and check for any leakages.
To check for the functioning of the EGR valve apply vacuum on the vacuum connection of the EGR
valve. The lift of the valve at the required vacuum should be achieved.
EGR Pipe
Remove the EGR pipe and check for gas leakage, damages etc. Clean the gasket seating area from any
carbon deposits burrs etc. Spray ‘WD-40’ rust cleaning spray on the nut. To check the pipe for any
leakages, close one end of flange and from other end blow air at two bars. Dip the pipe in water and
observe if any leakage is observed. If any leaks are observed then the pipe has to be replaced. Do not
attempt to weld/ seal the leakage joint.
Page 113
EGR Cooler
EGR cooler does not require any maintenance. During coolant level & leak check as well as refilling it is
recommended to check for any leak at the EGR cooler coolant inlet and outlet hose connections. Tight
the clamps and arrest the coolant leakages if any.
ECU:
It does not require any maintenance.
However, like any ECU care has to be taken that if any welding work is being carried out on the vehicle
then the battery terminals needs to be removed. Similarly, the practices of shorting the battery to
check the battery have to be avoided. (It can cause a spike). The practice of changing battery with a
running engine is also not acceptable. Again, the resultant spike can damage the controller beyond
repairs.
Catalytic Convertor
It does not require any maintenance.
Checking the System
EGR System –
Any errors in the EGR system are registered as a DTC code. The DTC codes can be viewed by using the
“Smart Tester”
.
Page 114
In Car Repairs
This section consist of –
• EGR Valve Assembly Removal
• EGR Pipe Removal
• EGR Cooler Removal
Page 115
 EGR Valve Removal
 EGR valve assembly mtg. bolts 04 12 mm. 25 ± 03
THAR CRDe - EGR VALVE AND ACCESSARY - SCHEMATIC
Integral EGR Valve Removal
Refer illustration –
1. Remove NVH cover, Intercooler assembly.

2. Remove Vacuum hose and intake hose on EGR valve assembly.
3. Remove EGR Valve mounting on EGR Pipe.
4. Remove EGR valve mounting bolts on EGR cooler.
Page 116
 EGR Cooler and EGR Pipe Removal
EGR pipe mtg. bracket bolt. 01 12 mm. 25 ± 03
EGR pipe mtg. allen bolt (exh side) 02 05 mm. 25 ± 03
EGR pipe mtg. on valve body 02 12 mm. 25 ± 03
EGR valve body on intake manifold 04 12 mm 25 ± 03
EGR COOLER AND PIPE REMOVAL
Removal Steps – Refer illustration shown.

1. Remove NVH cover & intercooler assy.
2. Remove intake hose on manifold.
3. Remove EGR pipe mtg. brackets.
4. Remove EGR Pipe assembly from exhaust and intake manifold side.
5. Remove hoses on EGR cooler.
6. Remove EGR valve & cooler assembly.
7. Remove EGR gasket on intake manifold.
Assembly Procedure – Refer illustration shown.

1. Refit new EGR gasket.
2. Refit EGR valve assembly on intake manifold.
3. Refit EGR cooler & Pipe along with new gaskets.
4. Refit EGR pipe mtg. brackets on engine.
5. Reconnect intake hose and EGR cooler hoses.
6. Refit intercooler & NVH barrier assembly.
7. Check & insure for no leak of exhaust gas from system.
 Use recommended rust free solution if EGR pipe mounting bolts are found jam.
 Replace gasket while assembling g EGR pipe (TC to EGR Valve).
 Check and top up the coolant level in radiator & reservoir.
 EGR Cooler is only applicable for BS-IV engines.
Page 117
Exhaust system :
Silencer Type Cylindrical type (with Elliptical cross section) with
baffles
Make Sharda Motor Ind., Ltd., India
Number One
Silencer identification No. (if proprietary) / Part Part No:0903AAA08370N
No (if not proprietary)
Internal dia of exhaust pipe (mm) 57.1
Minimum distance between exhaust pipe(s) and 160 mm
the fuel line
Catalyser make,number and Country of origin ECOCAT India Private Limited (Coater ECOCAT India
Private Limited, Canner : ECOCAT India Private Limited
/opt. Tenneco Exhaust India/ Opt Sharada Motors
India)
Identification Mark / Part No. 0902AA0430N Optional 0902AAA01441N
Type of catalytic action (One/two/three way) Two way Oxidation Catalyst
Substrate (Monolythic metal/
Honeycomb Metallic
Ceramic/honeycomb)
Cell density (cells per sq.inch) 200/400 Optional 200/330
Type of casing for catalyser Stainless Steel Metallic
Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
Make & Country of origin Bosch, China.
Identification mark Part No 0 281 013 778
Calibration Identification No 0315EAC00260N
Adjustment possibilities (Yes/No) No
Exhaust Gas Recirculating System
Brief description of the system Exhaust gas from exhaust manifold to intake system
via.EGR Valve.
Type (cooled / non cooled / progressive/ on- Cooled , Progressive
off/any other)
EGR valve
Make Padmini Engg Pvt Ltd,India.
Type Vacuum Operated.
Identification No. / Part No. 0309DC0140N
Page 118
Clutch
Table of Content
Description…………………………………………………………………………………………………………
Trouble Shooting………………………………………………………………………………………………..
In Car Repairs……………………………………………………………………………………………….......
Clutch overhaul………………………………………………………………………………………………....
Inspection……………………………………………………………………………………………….............
Technical Specification & Wear Limit…………………………………………………………………..
Torque Specification……………………………………………………………………………………………
Lubricant Specification…………………………………………………………………………………………
List of the MSTs………………………………………………………………………………………………....
Page 119
Description
The clutch disc is a single, dry type with cushion springs in the hub. The clutch disc’s friction material is
riveted to the hub.
The clutch cover is a diaphragm type with one-piece construction. A 240-mm clutch disc is used.
In the engaged position (when the clutch pedal is not pressed), the diaphragm spring of the clutch
cover assembly holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc. This enables the engine torque
to be transmitted to the input shaft of the gearbox, without any slip / loss.
The clutch is hydraulically actuated with self-adjusting features. The complete actuation system
comprises of a clutch master cylinder with integral reservoir. The master cylinder is connected to the
clutch actuation or the slave cylinder by hydraulic pipe. The travel of the push rod results in linear
movement of the release bearing through a release fork pivoted on a ball in the clutch housing.
The clutch release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring centre towards the flywheel. The diaphragm
spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the
pressure plate cover pulls the pressure plate away from the clutch disc. When the clamping load on
the clutch plate is relieved it slides on the splines of the input shaft away from the flywheel thus
disengaging the engine torque from the input shaft & enabling the gears to be changed.
Page 120
Care of the System
While topping up use the recommended fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications only. Avoid mixing
different brands.
The clutch fluid is hygroscopic fluids hence tend to collect humidity. The humidity along with the brake
fluid can cause acidic reaction & seizure of the master & slave cylinders. The clutch fluid should be
replaced every 40,000 km or one in a year, whichever is earlier.
Following are the activities to be covered under regular maintenance of the vehicle –
• CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK – INSPECT
• CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL & LEAK – REPLACE
Page 121
 CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT
Clutch Fluid – DOT3 standard /SAE J103/IS 8654

1
Clutch Master
Cylinder with MAX
Reservoir MIN
Bleed Screw
Slave Cylinder
Assembly
Clutch System - Schematic
CLUTCH FLUID – LEVEL & LEAK - INSPECT

Refer above illustration –
1. Check for Clutch Fluid Level up ‘MAX’ mark on the clutch fluid reservoir [1].
2. Check for Clutch Fluid leakage and correct fitment at all joints –
• Hose connected from reservoir and Clutch master cylinder.
• Clutch Master Cylinder inlet and outlet.
• Clutch Bundy tube to flexible hose joint.
• Clutch slave Cylinder inlet banjo.
• Clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
• Park the vehicle on level ground/2 post lift /4 post lift.

• Always use recommended fluids only.
• Do not mix different brand fluids.
• Clutch fluid to be replaced at every 40000kms.
• If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is
disconnected before lifting the vehicle. After lowering, re-connect the
LSPV spring and ensure that the setting height is correct.
Page 122
 CLUTCH FLUID LEVEL & LEAK – REPLACE
Clutch Fluid – DOT3 standard /SAE J103/IS 8654
Clutch System - Schematic
CLUTCH FLUID – REPLACE.

Refer above illustration –
 Remove the dust cap of the bleeder screw.
 If the bleeding operation is done without connecting a tube and in the open air then the
chance of air remaining trapped is high.
 Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding screw on slave cylinder.
 Ensure that the other end of the tube is fully immersed in the bottle having clean clutch
fluid.
 Fill the Reservoir clutch master cylinder up to the top level with recommended clutch fluid.
 Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times slowly to the full stroke.
 Holding the clutch in depressed condition rotate the bleed screw by 90 degree and allow all
the air escape in to the container bottle.
 Repeat the exercise till no air bubbles appears in the bottle.
 During this operation ensure fluid level in reservoir.
 Close the bleed screw properly.
 Remove bleeding tube and place the dust cap on bleed screw.
 Check the fluid level in container and be top up to the ‘MAX’ level.[1]
• Use recommended fluids & don’t mix different brand fluids.

• Clutch fluid to be replaced at every 40000kms.
• If the activity is done on a 2 post lift, ensure that the LSPV spring is
disconnected before lifting the vehicle & re-connect the LSPV spring &
ensure that the setting height is correct after job complete.
Page 123
Trouble Shooting
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is extremely obvious, accurate problem diagnosis will require a
road test to confirm that the problem exists. To find out the actual root cause of the problem the
clutch will have to be dismantled and the failed parts examined to determine the cause.
During road test, drive the vehicle in normal operating speeds. Shift the gears and observe the clutch
action. If chatter, grab, slip or improper release is experienced, remove & inspect the parts. However
if problem is noise or hard shift then the problem may not be in clutch only but also the transmission
or the driveline.
If the clutch slip is suspected then drive the vehicle in 1st or 2nd gear at the top speed (corresponding
to the gear). Keeping the accelerator fully pressed, slowly apply the brake- with your left feet. If the
engine stalls then the clutch is not slipping.
Clutch Problem Causes –
Fluid contamination is the most frequent cause of clutch malfunction. Oil, water on the clutch contact
surface will cause faulty operation viz. Slip, grab, and judder.
During inspection check if any parts in the clutch are coated with oil or water splash from road.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either rear main seal or transmission-input shaft. The oil leaks
from either of these areas will normally coat the housing interior or clutch cover or flywheel. Heat
build up due to slippage between the clutch plate and the flywheel or the pressure plate can result
into the leaked oil literally getting baked. Visually this will result in a glazed residue varying from
amber to black.
Roads splash contamination will mean that the dirt water is entering the clutch housing either due to
loose bolt or torn rubber boot.
Clutch misalignment –
The clutch component i.e. the clutch plate, flywheel and the pressure plate have to be aligned with
the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft. Misalignment caused by runouts/ warpage will cause
clutch to grab judder as well as improper release (also manifesting as hard gearshift).
Flywheel runout –
The flywheel runout needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected. Flywheel runout
should not exceed 0.10 mm.
To measure the runout mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block. Locate the dial
gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive runout are:

 Heat warpage.
 Improper machining.
 Incorrect bolt tightening
 Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
 Improper seating on crankshaft.
Page 124
Clutch cover & Disc runout –
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete release of clutch
plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can cause distortion
of the cover and also disc damage.
The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the flywheel. The only
way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively (diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3
thread a time only.
A noisy gearshift operation especially the 1st and 2nd gear can be due to clutch not getting disengaged
completely. To check it, jack up the rear axle. Lift the axle till both the wheels are rotating freely.
Press the clutch pedal completely and start the engine, the wheels should not be spinning. Now slowly
release the pedal till it has moved about 10 mm, the wheel should still not be spinning. If some
spinning is noticed then it indicates improper lift of the pressure plate. First check the bleeding and
the pedal travel then check for the pressure plate lift.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned with the
crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete release of the clutch plate. It
can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also
damage the spline of the input shaft and clutch hub’s well as the clutch splines
 Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

 Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
 Missing alignment dowel holes.
 Loose or missing mounting bolt.
 Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
To check the clutch housing misalignment bell housing runout will also need to be checked.
Page 125
Clutch slippage
Observation Causes Remedial action

Disc facing worn out. 1. Normal wear.  Replace clutch disc
2. Clutch riding.  Replace clutch plate
3. Insufficient diaphragm  Replace clutch plate & cover
spring clamp load. assembly.
4. Faulty release  Replace , and bleed/
mechanism.
5. Vehicle being driven  Customer to be informed.
despite slipping clutch.
6. Bad driving practice of  Customer to be informed.
allowing the clutch to
slip far too long.
Clutch disc facing Leak at :
contaminated with oil, 1. Crankshaft rear end oil  Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
grease or clutch fluid. seal assembly.
2. Leak through the input  Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
shaft assembly.
3. Excess amount of grease  Apply less grease. Replace clutch
applied to the input disc. Clean cover assembly.
shaft splines
Clutch is running partially Release bearing carrier  Replace bearing / carrier.
disengaged. sticky.
Flywheel height incorrect. 1. Improperly machined
flywheel.  Replace flywheel.
2. Excess machining done.
Wrong disc or pressure plate  Replace Use the correct parts
the parts after
used. comparison.
Clutch disc/ cover or 1. Improper tightening or  Replace the parts and tighten as
diaphragm spring warped. loosening procedure. per sequence.
2. Rough handling of clutch  Replace the parts, ensure that

plate or cover assembly the rough handling is avoided
Flywheel side clutch facing Flywheel surface ,scored and  Reduce the scoring and nicks by
surface – torn/ nicked/ worn having light notch sand paper. Reduce if scoring
deeper.
Clutch disc facing burnt. 1. Frequent operation  Roughen the flywheel face with
Excessive glazing of the under high loads or hard sandpaper. Replace clutch plate
flywheel & pressure plate. acceleration conditions & cover assembly.
 The driver has to be alerted to
2. Frequent clutch riding by avoid repeat failure.
the driver.
Clutch facing broken Improper storage- clutch  Replace.
plate dropped prior to
fitting.
Fouling marks on the torsion Improper fitment-  Rectify
damper. assembled the wrong way
around
Page 126
Clutch grab/chatter

Clutch disc facing Leak at :
contaminated with oil, 1. Crankshaft rear end oil  Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
grease or clutch fluid. seal assembly.
2. Leak through the input  Replace seal & disc. Clean cover
shaft assembly.
3. Excess amount of grease  Apply less grease. Replace clutch
applied to the input disc. Clean cover assembly.
shaft splines
Clutch disc / pressure plate 1. Incorrect or substandard  Replace disc and cover with the
warped. parts. correct parts.
2. Improper tightening or  Replace the parts and tighten as
Disc facing show unusual loosening procedure. per sequence.
wear 3. Rough handling of clutch  Replace the parts, ensure that
plate or cover assembly the rough handling is avoided.
Partial engagements of 1. Clutch pressure plate  Replace clutch cover & clutch
clutch disc (One side worn – position setting incorrect plate.
opposite side glazed and or modified
lightly worn.) 2. Clutch cover, spring or  Replace clutch cover & clutch
release fingers bent or plate.
distorted due to rough
handling or improper
assembly.
3. Clutch disc damaged or  Replace clutch plate.
distorted.
4. Clutch misalignment.  Check alignment and runout of
flywheel disc or cover.
 Replace the clutch plate & cover
assy (if required. Correct the
alignment)
No fault found with clutch Problem related to  Further diagnosis required.
components. suspension or driveline Check engine & transmission
components. mounting insulators. U Joint,
tyres, body attaching parts.
Clutch master cylinder or Piston/ bore damaged or  Overhaul the master & slave
slave cylinder piston corroded cylinder.
jammed/ scuffing.
Tangential strap connecting 1. Incorrect driving practice  Advise the customer of the
the pressure plate to the  Mostly due to tow consequences.
diaphragm cover broken. starting in 1st or 2nd gear
Or
 Incorrect gear selection
Withdrawal fork worn out Wear of the fork at pivot end  Replace the fork..
or the release bearing end
Page 127
Improper clutch release

Clutch disc warped. New disc not checked before  Check the new disc’s runout &
installation replace it.
Clutch plate is binding on the 1. Clutch disc hub splines  Replace the clutch plate.
input shaft’s splines. damaged during
installation.
2. Input shaft splines rough  Replace input shaft is severely
or damaged. damaged.
3. Corrosion or rust  Replace the clutch plate.
formation on splines of Replace the input shaft if the
disc and input shaft. scaling can not be removed.
Clutch disc-facing sticks to Vacuum may form in pockets  Drill 1/16 inch diameter hole
flywheel. over rivet head. Occurs as through rivets and scuff sand
clutch cools down after use. the clutch disc facing .
Clutch will not disengage 1. Low fluid in the clutch  Top off the fluid and check for
properly. master cylinder. leaks.
2. Air in the hydraulic  Bleed & refill the system.
system
3. Clutch cover loose.  Tighten the bolts.
4. Wrong clutch disc.  Replace disc.
5. Clutch cover diaphragm  Replace the cover assembly.
spring bent / warped
during transmission
installation.
6. Clutch disc fitted  Fit the clutch plate correctly
backwards. the hub should be facing the
pressure plate side & the
flywheel side mark towards the
flywheel
Bush worn out / damaged Vibration / misalignment  Fit new bearings & check for
Clutch misalignment misalignments.
Hard gear shift

Brake fluid less and or 1. Leaks  Replace fluid.
contaminated 2. Reservoir strainer  Stop leaks and avoid
missing contamination.
Excessive clutch pedal free Wrong adjustment or lock Adjust
plays. nut loosening
Clutch plate warpage 1. Warpage due to handling Replace
or assembly.
2. Warpage due to
misalignment.
Page 128
In Car Repairs
 Adjustment of clutch pedal height.
Loosen the lock nut of master cylinder’s push rod

fork.
Slide backs the dust cover.
Rotate the master cylinder push rod till desired

height of pedal is achieved.
Tighten the lock nut of push rod fork.
Screw in pedal stopper bolt completely.
Press pedal fully till the pedal bottoms on the floor.
Now screw out the pedal stopper bolt till it touches
Page 129
the pedal lever, release pedal.
Screw out the bolt further by one turn. Tighten the
locknut.
Recheck pedal height.
 Bleeding the clutch –
Clean the external areas of the clutch slave cylinder

and remove the dust cap of the bleeder screw.
If the bleeding operation is done by without

connecting by a tube and in the open air then the
chance of air remaining trapped is high.
Connect bleeding tube, to bleeding screw on slave
cylinder.
Ensure that the other end of the tube is fully

immersed in the bottle having clean clutch /brake
fluid.
Fill the Reservoir clutch master cylinder up to the

top level with recommended clutch fluid.
Page 130
Operate clutch pedal 3 or 4 times slowly to the full
stroke.
Holding the clutch in depressed condition loosen

the bleeding screw on slave cylinder by ½ to ¾ turn
and allow all the air escape in to the container
bottle.
Repeat the exercise till no air bubbles appears in the bottle.

During this operation ensure fluid level in reservoir.
Tighten the bleed screw properly.
Remove bleeding tube and place the dust cap o

bleed screw.
Check the fluid level in container and need be top

up to the ‘max’ level.
Page 131
Clutch Actuation Mechanism –
The clutch actuation is hydraulic actuation. The clutch pedal actuates a master cylinder. The hydraulic
fluid is transmitted to the slave cylinder through Bundy tubes.
The slave cylinder actuates a fork, which is pivoted on a ball pivot. The other end of the fork; a release
bearing on a carrier actuates the diaphragm springs.
• Master cylinder overhaul
• Slave cylinder overhaul.
• Slave cylinder and Concentric bearing Overhaul
Page 132
 Master cylinder overhaul –
Remove the outlet pipe connection.
Remove the clevis pin lock & the clevis pin.
Remove the clutch push rod fork & the clutch pedal.
Remove the master cylinder from the firewall .
Page 133
1. Pull back the dust cover.

2. Remove circlip.
3. Remove the push rod assembly with retainer washer.
4. Remove the piston assembly by gently tapping the Clutch Master cylinder body on a wooden
block.
Using a screwdriver, lift the leaf spring retainer.

Remove spring assembly from plunger.
Take care, while lifting the spring otherwise the

spring and the stem will fall off.
Compress spring to free valve stem from

eccentrically positioned hole in the end face of
spring retainer. This will separate spring retainer
from valve stem.
Remove spring, valve spacer and spring washer

from the valve stem.
Page 134
(While assembling hold the spacer between fingers
such that the valve stems hangs down vertically.
Pull down the stem downwards as far as possible.
Observe if the valve stem has moved freely
upwards. If movement is not free replace valve
spacer.)
Remove the valve seal from the valve stem.
The bore and the plunger should be checked for

scoring, scuffing uneven wear marks, corrosion and
excessive clearance between plunger & body
Check the condition of dust cover for cut,
deterioration if damaged replace.
The assembly procedure is the reverse of the
dismantling procedure.
While fitting the plunger lubricate it with brake
fluid.
 Slave cylinder overhaul –
Remove the Bundy pipe from the inlet.
Remove the slave cylinder from the mounting

bracket.
Page 135
1. Remove dust cover.

2. Remove circlip.
3. Remove plunger with gland seal and plunger spring from body by lightly tapping it on wooden
block.
4. Remove gland seal from plunger.
The bore and the plunger should be checked for

scoring, scuffing uneven wear marks, corrosion and
excessive clearance between plunger & body
Check the condition of dust cover for cut,
deterioration if damaged replace.
The assembly procedure is the reverse of the
dismantling procedure.
While fitting the plunger lubricate it with brake

fluid.
Make sure that the push rod end is firmly located at

the fork.
Page 136
 Clutch overhaul –
Block the front wheels, so that the vehicle does not move forward.
Disconnect the negative cable of the battery.
Remove the electrical connections to the starter

motor.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the

gearbox mounting.
Note: Remove the slave cylinder along with the
small Bundy tube. Disconnect the Bundy tube
from the main tubing.
Remove the propeller shaft from the gearbox

end.
Do not allow the propeller shaft to hang. Support
it.
Page 137
Remove the speedometer cable from the gearbox

end
Remove the electrical connection for the reverse

lamp switch.
Support the engine suitably at rear

Remove the gearboxes gearshift lever grommet.
Remove the gearbox lever upper half.
Support the gearbox using a suitable stand.
Remove the gearbox mounting insulators.
Remove the clutch housing mounting screws to the engine rear face & the ladder frame.
Move the gearbox away from the engine.
Remove the clutch release bearing with sleeve.
Remove the clutch fork.
If the original cover will be reinstalled then mark position of cover on the flywheel for assembly
reference. Use paint as a marker for this.
If the cover assembly may be reused then loosen the cover bolts evenly and in tightening sequence
to relive the spring tension equally.
The bolts should be loosened few threads at a time – so that the warping is avoided.
If the cover assembly is not going to be reused then this precaution is not essential.
If the pilot bearing has to be removed then the flywheel has to be removed and then the bearing
removed using the MST no 543.
(To install the bearing MST no 544 has to be used.)
During assembly use the MST 546 to align the clutch plate while the cover is being tightened.
The assembly sequence is the reverse of the dismantling (except the precautions mentioned.)
Inspection:
All the components should be inspected for wear. Any components, which are beyond the wear limits,
have to be replaced.
Over & above the wear limits: The following points also need to be ensured.
Page 138
Flywheel runout --
The flywheel runout needs to be checked whenever misalignment is suspected. Flywheel runout
should not exceed 0.10 mm
To measure the runout; mount the base of the magnetic dial gauge on the block. Locate the dial
gauge’s needle on the outer surface of the flywheel.
Some of the common reasons for excessive runout are:

 Heat warpage.
 Improper machining.
 Incorrect bolt tightening
 Foreign material on crankshaft flange or flywheel.
 Improper seating on crankshaft.
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then while fitting it
back ensure that:
 No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
 The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
 Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel runout.
Clutch cover & Disc runout --
Check the clutch disc runout before fitting. It should be within the specifications. If it is more than the
specification- use a different clutch plate.
A warped cover or diaphragm spring will result in clutch grab and / or incomplete release of clutch
plate.
If the clutch alignment tool is not used then the misalignment of the clutch plate can cause distortion
of the cover and also disc damage.
The cover can also get misaligned due to improper tightening of the cover onto the flywheel. The only
way to avoid is that the bolts must be tightened alternatively (diagonal pattern) and evenly i.e. 2 to 3
thread a time only.
Clutch Housing Misalignment –
The clutch housing has to be aligned with the engine so that the input shaft is aligned with the
crankshaft. Absence of this alignment results in clutch noise, incomplete release of the clutch plate. It
can normally be judged by uneven wear of the finger and pilot bearing. In severe case it can also
damage the spline of the input shaft and clutch hub’s well as the clutch splines
 Normally the clutch housing misalignment is a result of:

 Incorrect seating on the engine/transmission.
 Missing alignment dowel holes.
 Loose or missing mounting bolt.
 Mounting surfaces that are damaged/ not parallel.
Page 139
Before fitting the clutch housing ensure that no dirt, debris or foreign parts are trapped between the
mating surface of the transmission & the clutch housing.
Flywheel --
If the flywheel is found to be having minor scoring then it can be resurfaced. However the maximum
allowed cut is 0.076 mm. If scoring is deeper than 0.0076 mm then the flywheel has to be changed.
(Excessive material removal will cause the flywheel to either crack/ war-page after installation/ drop
in clamping load and will affect the proper clutch release as the travel of release bearing gets
affected.)
If the flywheel has been removed for resurfacing or replacing the pilot bearing then while fitting it
back ensure that:
 No dirt and grease present on the mounting face (it can cause cocking & run out)
 The flywheel bolts have been replaced.
 Torque tightened as per sequence and also the angular tightening as per the specification is done.
Absence of any of these requirements may result in bolt loosening causing flywheel runouts.
Starter ring replacement: Unless the provision of properly heating & fitting is available. It is not
recommended to replace the starter ring. It is worthwhile to replace the ring along with the flywheel.
Caution: If the starter ring is only going to be replaced then:-
• Do not use a gas flame to cut. It can cause local overheating of flywheel.
• The ring gear has to be heated in a oven to get uniform expansion. (Nearly 191°C)
• Do not uses flame to heat the ring – it can cause annealing of the ring teeth and premature
failure.
Page 140
Figure Description Value

Clutch control type- Hydraulic- self adjusting
Pressure plate Diaphragm
Clutch Disc 240±1
Outer Dia (mm) 160± 1
Inner Dia ( mm)
Disc Thickness ( mm) 8.8 mm ( free)

Clutch disc run out 0.8 mm Max
Minimum thickness from 0.4 mm
outer face to rivet head.
Clutch pedal Suspended Type

Clutch pedal Ratio 7.4
Clutch Pedal Height above

carpet thickness of 10 mm.
Normal
Under full depression. 172 mm
165 mm.
Clutch pedal free play ( 5 to 6 mm

including push rod play at
pedal top)
Page 141
Master Cylinder 19.05 mm
Bore diameter
Slave Cylinder 22.22 mm
Inner diameter
Clearance between
The piston & the bore 0.13 mm
( Both cylinders)
Flywheel Standard Service Limit

≤ 0.05 0.1
Flatness ≤ 0.05 0.1
Runout
Flywheel
Width from Mounting face to 35±0.13
clutch face
Clutch release point from 25 mm from Bottom position
pedal full stroke end position
Pressure plate finger height 47.6 ± 1.0 mm

(mm)
Diaphragm spring tip non 0.8 mm ( finger to finger)
alignment.( Max)
Diaphragm spring finger wear Max depth 0.5 mm
Max width 5 mm
Location Torque Nm ( Lbft)
Pressure plate bolts 32.5 ± 2.5 Nm (24 ± 2 Lb-ft)

Clutch pedal position Switch lock nut 25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
Clutch master cylinder nut 25 Nm (18 Lb-ft)
Clutch slave cylinder bolts 45 Nm (33 Lb-ft)
Flywheel Bolts 90 Nm + 60° ( 66 Lbft + 60°)
Clutch pedal pivot bolt and nut 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm ( 20 ± 2 Lb-ft)
Page 142
List of the MST
Description / Part No. / Sketch Usage View

Master clutch plate assembly- diesel ( aligner)
MST 546
Extractor Flywheel bearing

MST 543
Drift Flywheel bearing

MST 544
Lubricant Recommended
Specification: DOT 3
Brands: Hindustan Petroleum HP Super Duty Brake Fluid/ Castrol brake fluid/ Indian Oil Servo Brake
fluid Super HD.
Page 143
Transmission (NGT530R)
Table of Content
Description…………………………….................................................………….……………
Trouble Shooting……………………................................................…………..……………
Care of the System……………………...............................................……...........………
In Car Repair………………………...................................................…………..……………
Dismantling and Overhauling……………………………………………….………….………..……
Inspection of the Components………………………………………………………………….……
Assembly Procedure...…………………………………………..……………………………………….
Technical Specification………….……………………………………………………………………….
Sealant Specification………….………………………………………...……………………………….
Torque Specification……………………………………………………………………………………….
Tightening Sequence………….……………………....………………………………………………….
List of Special Tools (MST)………………………………………………………………………………
Page 144
Description
It is a 5-speed gearbox. All the forward speed is having strut type synchronisation. The reverse gear is
having sliding mesh type.
The gear selection is by a direct shift lever tongue operating in a 3-rail system. The accidental
operation of two gears is avoided by an interlocking mechanism. To avoid vibrations passing on to the
shift lever, the shift lever is a two-piece with rubber isolation provided on to the top half.
The gearbox housing is 3-piece aluminium with an intermediate plate. A skid plate protects the
bottom of the gear box. The Gearbox is mounted directly on the flywheel through the integral clutch
housing and supported at rear on the cross member. The output shaft is fitted with companion flange
which is bolted to propeller shaft in case of 2 wheel drive. If vehicle is equipped with 4 wheel drive the
output shaft is splined and is mated to the transfer case.
Refer illustrations of –
1. Transmission assembly cross sectional view for 2WD.

2. Transmission assembly cross sectional view for 4WD.
3. Synchroniser pack assembly cross section view used in NGT 530R Transmission.
INTERMEDIATE
CLUTCH HOUSING PLATE SHIFT LEVER
MAIN DRIVE SHAFT SYNCHRO PACK
RD TH
RELEASE 3 &4
BEARING SLEEVE SYNCHRO
st
PACK 1 &
nd REAR HSG. ASSY.
2
FRONT
TH
HOUSING 5 REVERSE
COUNTER SHAFT
SUB-SHAFT
Transmission (2WD) Cross-sectional View
Page 145
CLUTCH HOUSING
SHIFT LEVER
MAIN DRIVE SHAFT
SYNCHRO
RELEASE ST
PACK 1 REAR HSG.
BEARING ND
&2 ASSY.
SLEEVE
INTERMEDIATE SPLINED
PLATE OUTPUT
FRONT
SHAFT
HSG. ASSY.
SYNCHRO PACK TH
COUNTER SHAFT RD
3 &4
TH 5 REVERSE
SUB-SHAFT
Transmission (4WD) Cross-sectional View
• Specification –Synchronizer Pack Assembly Cross Section View
Page 146
Trouble Shooting
A low transmission lubricant level is generally the result of a leak, inadequate lubricant fill, or an
incorrect lubricant level check.
Leaks can occur at the mating surface of the gear case, intermediate plate and adapter or extension
housing or from the front/rear seals. A suspected leak could also be result of an overfill condition.
Leaks at the rear of the extension or adapter housing will be from the housing oil seal. Leaks at
component mating surface will probably be the result of inadequate sealer, gaps in sealer, incorrect
bolt tightening, or the use of a non-recommended sealer.
A leak at the front of the transmission will be from either the front bearing retainer or retainer seal.
Lubricant may be seen dripping from the clutch housing after extended operation. If the leak is severe,
it may also contaminate the clutch disc causing slip, grab and chatter.
A correct lubricant level check can be made only when the vehicle is level, use a two post or a four
post hoist to ensure this. Also allow the lubricant to settle for a minute or so before checking. These
recommendations will ensure that an accurate check and avoid an under fill or overfill conditions.
Hard Shifting
Hard shifting is usually caused by low lubricant level, improper or contaminated lubricants,
component damage, and incorrect clutch adjustment or by a damaged clutch pressure plate or disc; or
worn out brass synchro ring.
Substantial lubricant leak can result in gear, shift rail, synchro and bearing damage. If a leak goes
undetected for an extended period the first indications of a problem are usually hard shifting and
noise.
Improper clutch release is one of the most frequent causes of hard shifting. Incorrect adjustment of a
worn damaged pressure plate or disc can cause incorrect release. If the clutch problem is advanced
then gear clash during shifts can be resulted. Incomplete travel of the clutch pedal due to restrictions
at the end of stroke (upturned carpet, extra carpet or cover or bend clutch linkage can also cause
improper clutch release and hard shift.)
Worn or damaged synchro rings can cause gear clash when shifting any forward gear. In some new or
rebuilt transmissions, new synchro rings may tend to stick slightly causing hard or noisy shifts. In most
conditions this will decline as the rings wear in.
Transmission noise
Most manual transmissions make some noise during normal operation. Rotating gears can generate
slight whine that may only be audible at extreme speeds.
Severe obviously audible transmission noise is generally the result of a lubricant problem. Insufficient,
improper or contaminated lubricant can promote rapid wear of gears, synchros, shift rail, forks and
bearing’s. The overheating caused by a lubricant problem can also lead to gear breakage.
Page 147
Trouble Shooting Chart
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Gear Whine • Low oil level  Top up oil.
• Worn teeth gears  Replace gears
• Worn bearings  Replace bearings.
Knocking or ticking • Chipped gear teeth  Replace gears.

• Foreign matter inside  Remove the foreign matter
transmission. and locate how the foreign
matter came inside e.g.
missing breather and rectify
that also to avoid recurrence.
 Replace the bearings.
• Defective bearings.
Jumping out of gear • Defective detent springs.  Replace the detent springs.
• Worn out grooves in shift rail.  Replace the shift rails.
• Shaft misalignment.  Check & Correct it.
• Worn dog teeth in gear  Replace the gears
• Worn out fork/ fork pads  Replace the fork/ pads
• Worn out synchronizer body.  Replace the body
• Gear lever fouling.  Check & correct.
• Bottom lever slot worn out.  Replace bottom lever.
Unable to select gear • Clutch defective  Rectify the clutch/ clutch

withdrawal mechanism
• Worn out selector mechanism.  Rectify the gear selector
mechanism.
• Worn out brass synchro ring.  Replace synchro ring.
• Gear clutch teeth damaged.  Replace gear.
Hard gear shifting • Clutch defective  Rectify the clutch/ clutch

withdrawal mechanism
• Improper or contaminated  Replace the lubricant with the
lubricants specified lubricant.
• Worn out brass synchro ring.  Replace synchro ring.
• Gear clutch teeth damaged.  Replace gear.
• Transmission assembly steps given below consist of Problems, Causes and Precautions while
assembling of sub components and main assembly.
• For more details on various problems and probable causes refer the assembly procedure section
prescribed in this manual.
Page 148
Procedure to diagnose concern of reverse gear lock
Step 1:
Confirm concern of gear lock in reverse gear or gear lever is not coming to neutral position.
After confirmation of the concern remove Transmission from the vehicle. Refer SOP.
Step 2:
Loosen the companion flange nut.

Remove nut, washer and companion flange from
transmission assembly carefully.
Take care that rear end oil seal is not getting

damaged.
Step 3:
Remove shift lever grommet, bottom shift lever

and plunger & retainer plate assembly.
Avoid using a steel hammer, as retainer plate is

made of cast iron and may break.
Step 4:
Remove Speedo sleeve and Speedo driven gear.

(As shown in figure)
Page 149
Step 5:
Remove rear housing carefully.
Take care that rear end oil seal and bearing are not
getting damaged.
Step 6:
Remove 5th driven gear and bearing carefully with

the help of puller (MST-523).
Step 7:
Remove 5th drive gear and bearing carefully with

the help of puller (MST-524).
Step 8:
Remove Sub-shaft and hub assembly.
Page 150
Step 9:
Take new Sub Shaft & Hub Assembly,
Part No - 0703DAD06050N for NGT 530R

Transmission.
Step 10:
If Synchroniser Ring or Key Found Damaged,

Replace the damaged parts.
Step 11:
Assemble 5th/Reverse shift rail and shift fork

assembly with reverse sliding gear and
5th/Reverse Synchroniser Pack assembly, carefully.
Step 12:
Assemble the front housing with the assembled

intermediate housing.
Apply Loctite 574 on the mating surface of the

front housing.
Page 151
Step 13:
Assemble the 5th drive gear assembly on to the

5th/Reverse sub shaft.
Step 14:
Assemble the modified 5th driven gear and bearing

assembly on to the main shaft.
Step 15:
Assemble the spacer 5th drive gear on the sub

shaft.
For sub shaft shimming, refer to the Repair

Manual.
Step 16:
Assemble the bearing on the sub shaft.
Page 152
Step 17:
Apply loctite 574 on the mating surface of the rear

housing.
Assemble rear housing on to the intermediate

housing.
Step 18:
Assemble gear shift bottom lever assembly.
Use recommended grease as mentioned in Repair

Manual.
Step 19:
Fit grommet on gear shift lever and tie with strap.
Step 20:
Assemble companion flange, washer & nyloc nut.
Step 21:
Assemble Transmission on Vehicle & Take Trial for rectification of concern.
Page 153
Care of the System
Use lubricant meeting oils specification of API GL4 and viscosity 75W90 Synchro. The fluid capacity/
quantity in NGT530R Transmission are 1.8 to 2 Liters.
• TRANSMISSION OIL – Replacement Procedure
Transmission Assembly - Schematic
Transmission Oil – Replace

Refer above illustration.
1. Remove the Filler plug.
2. Put the oil collection tray under transmission, Remove the drain plug. Allow the oil to
drain out completely.
3. Clean the metal particles if any deposited on the drain plug. Assemble & torque tight the
drain plug with new washer – 27.5±2.5 Nm.
4. Fill fresh transmission oil as per specified capacity & assemble the filler plug with new
washer and torque to 27.5±2.5 Nm.
5. Check Oil leakage / seepage at –
• Transmission Housing Joints.
• Transmission Oil drain plug.
While replacing the transmission fluid ensure that –

• Vehicle is parked on level ground/ 2 post/ 4 post lift.
• If the activity is done on a 2 post lift and vehicle is fitted with LSPV, ensure that the LSPV
spring is disconnected before lifting the vehicle & re-connect the LSPV spring & ensure that
the setting height is correct after job completion.
• The lubricant level should be at the lower edge of the filler plug.
• The filler plug and drain plug on NGT 530R TM to be tightened to 27.5 + 2.5 Nm.
Page 154
• Rear Oil Seal Replacement (2WD) –
Follow below step If the Transmission assembly is not removed from the vehicle -
• Remove the Rear propeller shaft from the transmission end*
( Only front end of rear propeller shaft to be removed in case of 2WD vehicle)
• Refer section ‘removal and installation of propeller shaft’ for more information.
The rear oil seal is fitted at the rear end of the

Transmission assembly.
The seal is protected by dust cover.
• Remove the dust cover from Transmission

assembly rear end.
Use mallet in case it found jam.
• Remove rear oil seal, using tool.
• Always replace with a new seal once it has been removed.

Installation –
• Before installation apply multi-purpose grease to lip of oil seal.
• Install new seal, press until it stops.
• Refit propeller shaft assembly.
Ensure that Seal is not getting damaged during assembling of propeller shaft to Transmission
assembly.
Page 155
• Gear Position/ Gear Neutral Switch Check -
If the vehicle is equipped with Engine “Stop-Start” feature, follow the procedure given below –
Micro hybrid vehicles are equipped with ‘STOP START’ system. The Gear neutral Switch is located on
the Adaptor Pivot Plate. Refer illustration below.
• Check continuity, refer below chart.
Switch Gear Position Continuity

Reverse Yes
Reverse lamp switch
Except Reverse No
Neutral Yes
Neutral Position Switch
Except Neutral No
Neutral switch should be fitted with 6 mm gap with sensor; Sensor is fitted on bottom gear
lever.
Page 156
In Car Repairs -
• Transmission Removal –
Cross Member below

transmission
• Before separating the transmission from the engine, remove the crankshaft position sensor
*(OBD) from the clutch housing. *(if applicable)
• Support transmission while removing it from vehicle.
• Remove battery –ve terminal.
• To prevent oil spills, drain Transmission and Transfer Case oil before removing transmission.
• Ensure and take care of rear oil seal while removing propeller shaft.
• Lift vehicle on four post lift.
• Remove battery terminals.
• Remove Clutch Slave Cylinder* from clutch

housing.
* Ignore this illustration and follow the next one

in case vehicle is fitted with Concentric Slave
Cylinder.
Page 157
• In case of Concentric Slave Cylinder - Remove
the Clutch fluid line from the quick fix joint.
NOTE
Put a tray below to avoid clutch fluid seepage.
Avoid dropping of fluid particles over vehicle
components.
• Remove Gear Neutral switch connector*

from transmission.
• Remove reverse light switch connector on TM

assembly.
• Disconnect and remove speedo cable and

from speedo sleeve/ speedo drive fitted on
Transmission.
• Remove starter motor from the vehicle.
Page 158
• Remove Rear propeller shaft.
-and-
• Remove front propeller shaft in case of 4WD

vehicle.
• Remove gear knob and shift lever- upper part.

• Remove insulator below TM and the Cross member below the TM assembly.
CAUTION:
• Support to the TM assembly bottom side for safety purpose and to avoid TM damage.
• Support engine by placing a jack under oil pan; before removing Bell housing mounting bolts.
• Do not place jack under oil pan drain plug.
• Remove bell housing mounting bolts and separate transmission from engine.
If vehicle is equipped with 4 wheel drive, ensure to –
• Disconnect and remove four wheel drive Shift

link;
This is applicable for 4WD and only if Mechanical

Shift type Transfer Case is fitted in the vehicle.
Page 159
• Put tray below the transfer case, remove the

oil drain plug and drain the Transfer Case oil.
If required. This is required in case of system

overhaul.
• In case of 4WD with BW Electric Shift

mechanism –
Remove the Front and Rear side brackets on the

TF case assembly.
• Disconnect and remove the front propeller

shaft.
• Remove the transfer case insulator by

removing its mounting bolt.
Put spanner through cross member hole to access

the mounting bolt of insulator.
Support to the TM assembly bottom side for

safety purpose and to avoid TM damage.
Page 160
Transmission Case Components
NGT 530R TRANSMISSION HOUSING AND ATTACHING – 2WD
NGT 530R TRANSMISSION HOUSING AND ATTACHING – 4WD
Page 161
Transmission Gear Components –
Main Shaft Drive Gear & Synchroniser (2WD & 4WD) –
MAIN SHAFT DRIVE GEAR & SYNCHRONISER – 2WD
MAIN SHAFT DRIVE GEAR & SYNCHRONISER – 4WD
Page 162
• Counter Lay Shaft Gear & Synchronizer –
• Main Drive Gear –
Page 163
• Shift Control Components -
Page 164
• Shift Rail and Shift Fork Assembly – Sectional View
A: 1st/ 2nd fork boss is facing towards rear. B: 3rd/4th fork boss is facing towards front.
C: The position of the interlock pin.
Suggestion: While assembly lightly smears the interlock pin & the detent spring & the balls with grease, so
that they do not fall.
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are
manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present document, are prohibited without the prior written consent of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd. The use of this document by any person other than the trained personnel, at the Authorized Service Centre of Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.,
will amount to unauthorized use and shall be liable for penalty/prosecution© 2012 Mahindra & Mahindra Ltd.
Page 165

Repair Manual MAN-
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THAR CRDe BS-IV MAY 2012/Rev
1
• Transmission Shift Lever Components -
Sectional View
• Selection Biasing -
The repair methods given by the manufacturer in this document are based on the technical specifications, current at the time of release. The methods may be modified as a result of changes introduced by
the manufacturer in the production of the various component units and accessories from which the vehicles are manufactured. The reproduction, translation, transmission, in part of or whole of the present
Page 166
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• Transmission Components Disassembly –
SCHEMATIC OF NGT 530R (2WD) TM - DISASSEMBLY
SCHEMATIC OF NGT 530R (4WD) TM - DISASSEMBLY
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• Remove Clutch release bearing and fork*.
*if applicable.
NOTE:
Ignore this step, if vehicle is fitted with Concentric
Slave Cylinder.
• If vehicle is fitted with Concentric Slave

Cylinder - Remove the Clutch fluid line from
the quick fix joint. Refer illustration.
NOTE:
Put a tray below clutch housing to avoid clutch
fluid seepage. Avoid dropping of fluid particles
over vehicle components.
• Remove clutch housing from transmission

assembly. 09 nos. mounting bolts.
NOTE:
• Use mallet for slight tapping on bell housing
while removing from transmission.
• Remove the below clamp and below from the

bottom lever.
• Lever and locating pin removal.
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• Use a lengthy screw driver and put gear in

neutral position for ease of removal of gear
components.
• Keep the removed bottom lever assembly safe

from dirt and dust.
• Remove the Speedo gear along with adaptor.
Remove rear dust cover.
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Use mallet to remove dust cover if it is jam.
Avoid damage to the dust cover which will not

allow proper fitment.
Remove rear housing mounting bolts.
Ensure removal of all the mounting bolts from rear

housing and then remove the rear housing from
TM assembly.
Use mallet if the rear housing is jam.
Rear housing Removal -
• Rear housing should be in straight position

while removing.
• To avoid oil spillage, check and drain
remaining oil residuals from housing.
• Be careful not to damage of rear oil seal.
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• Remove 5th drive gear bearing using puller.
Remove Shim and Spacer.
• Remove cylindrical roller bearing.
• Remove adjusting shim on sub shaft.
• Remove the needle case – 5th driving gear.
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• Remove the 5th driving gear assembly.
• Remove the reverse synchronizer cone.
• Remove synchronizer assembly 5th & reverse.
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• Remove the counter sub shaft assembly.
• Disassemble the 5th driving hub.
• Remove the front housing and separate the

TM gear assembly along with intermediate
plate.
• Keep the gear assembly safely in the tray.
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• Remove the drive shaft from assembly.
• Remove the counter shaft.
Remove the 5th gear assembly along with bearing.

Use special tool for removal of 5th gear assembly. Refer illustration.
• Move sub shaft in forward direction.
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• Reverse gear fork to be taken forward and
remove Circlip and bearing using puller.
• Remove 5th driven gear with bearing.
Remove shift rail locking plug.
Ensure to remove lock plug alongwith Spring and

steel ball.
Keep Plug safely to avois misplacing of Spring and

Steel Ball.
Remove 5th and Reverse hub assembly -
CAUTION:
Be careful not to lose pin, shifting inserts.
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Remove poppet plug fitted on intermediate plate and shaft rail assembly of 5th and reverse.
• Be careful not to lose ball & spring while removing shaft and rail assembly.
NOTE:
• It is differ as in 2WD and 4WD.

• Output shaft in 4WD provided with lock nut where as in 2WD it is plane OD.
• Output shaft in 4WD is having splines throughout the shaft where as in 2WD it is fitted with
companion flange.
Remove Shaft rail and fork safely.
Removal of Shift Rail and Fork assembly -

CAUTION:
• Remove insert pin using dolly.
• Remove fork shaft by hand.
• Remove insert pin on 1st/2nd shift rail.
• Remove fork shaft by hand, use mallet if required.
• Remove fork on 3rd/4th and 1st/2nd
Remove elastic pin from rail assembly.
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Inspect Lock pins for reuse.
• Keep lock pins safely if found ok.
• it is recommended to replace lock pins if it is

not found in usable condition.
• 4WD output shaft having splines throughout the shaft end, whereas 2WD output shaft is having
Companion flange and nut fitment arrangement at the shaft end.
Remove the circlip from output shaft.
• Remove lock nut on output shaft* in case 4WD

transmission.
NOTE:
Use special tool, lock the free movement of

assembly and remove nut.
• Remove the reverse gear from output shaft.
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• Take out reverse gear from output shaft.
Separate drive shaft from intermediate plate -
NOTE:
• Use mallet to remove the main drive shaft
from intermediate plate.
• Remove main drive gear assembly.

• Remove main shaft main bearing using puller.
MD Gear dismantling –
• Remove synchro ring.
• Remove circlip and bearing using universal

bearing removal tool.
Page 178
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Main Shaft Drive Gear & Synchronizer dismantling –
• Counter shaft front bearing can be removed by

using bearing puller.
NOTE:
Main shaft, sub shaft bearings also to be removed

using universal puller.
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• Transmission Components Inspection –
1. Shift Control Rod and Fork Inspection:

• Check contact and sliding surfaces of Shift Rod and Fork for wear, scratches and damage if any.
2. Gear Components Inspection:
• Check gear shafts for cracks, wear and

bend if any.
• Check gears for excessive wear, cracks,

tooth breakage and chips if any.
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3. Synchronizers:
• Check splines portion of coupling

sleeves, synchronizer hubs, and gears
for wear, chips, and cracks.
• Check shifting synchro key for wear

and deformation.
• Check synchro key C-spring for

deformation.
4. Bearings:
• Ensure that all bearings are roll freely.

They are free from noise, cracks, wear
and pitting.
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• Transmission Components 0Assembly –
• Assembly of the Transmission is the reverse of its disassembly. While assembling following care
should be taken.
• Ensure that front housing, intermediate plate and all components are free from dirt, dust before
assembling.
• Transmission bearings life will reduce in case use of unclean gear components used.
 Assembling Synchronizers (Strut type) -
• Ensure fitment of both sides.

• Check all three key for proper fitment.
• Ensure free movement of hub & sleeve.
• Ensure proper C-spring fitment.
 MD Gear Sub assembly -
• Ensure circlip groove on the bearing to be on

the top side. Refer illustration.
• Circlip to be assembled after bearing
fitment.
NOTE:
• In case circlip is missing/ not fitted properly;

excessive play in MD gear will be observed
which can lead to gear slippage.
 Counter Shaft Sub assembly -
• Ensure direction of inner race as shown in

illustration.
• Press bearing as shown in illustration.
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• Press bearing to the full depth.

• Maintain runout of counter & sub-shaft within 0.05 mm. (extended countershaft with subshaft)
• Mark counter & sub-shaft with marker on spline end for matching at which the runout is within
specification.
• If run out in counter sub-shaft pairing is not maintained then 5th gear slippage can take place.
MD Gear Assembly -
• Keep bearing outer race in MD gear and

press bearing with help of dolly.
• Press pilot bearing outer race with help of

dolly.
• If outer race are not pressed properly then it may causes gearbox noisy.
• If md gear oil holes are missing then it may lead to 4th gear seizure/gear box jam due to pilot
brg seizure
Front Housing Sub assembly -
• Press output and counter shaft bearing race

to the housing with the help of dolly.
NOTE:
If outer race are not pressed properly then it

may causes gearbox noisy.
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Rear Housing Sub Assembly -
• Assemble the drain plug and tight it to 25~30

Nm.
• Refer illustration. Press the Oil seal and

bearing outer race.
• Fit the circlip into the rear housing grove.
• If oil seal fitment is improper then it causes

rear end oil seal leakage.
• If circlip is not fitted properly then it causes
gearbox Seizure.
• If drain plug torque is not done then it
causes gearbox seizure.
• If dust cover not pressed completely then it
will lead to dust cover fouling with propeller
shaft on vehicle
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Power Train Assembly and Plate Assembly -
• Set the counter shaft and output shaft

properly before assembly.
• Apply grease to pilot bearing.
• Insert 4th gear brass ring to MD gear.
Make sure that output shaft and MD gear are

free to rotate.
• Keep intermediate plate over counter and

output shaft.
• Assemble the reverse driven and idler gear.
Check and ensure that circlip is not having axial

play.
• Check dimple mark on 1st-2nd shift rail

before using it for assembly.
Refer illustration.
• Apply loctite on Front & Rear housing joint

Face with Loctite robo 7192.
• If retainer plate bolt torque missed then it will lead to gearbox seizure.
• If circlip having axial play then while running circlip may come out in field leading to gear
seizure.
Shift Rail and Shift Fork Fitment -
• Ensure that reverse driven gear is placed
properly before inserting 1st & 2nd gear fork.
• Put grease before placing interlock plunger
into 3rd & 4th rail.
• Put fork and then insert 1st/2nd rail; put ball
and then insert 3rd/4th rail.
• Press the 1st/2nd split pin, make sure that
1st/2nd split pin is not fouling to the 3rd/4th
rail.
• Ensure that 1st/2nd split pin should flash with
boss.
• Ensure that both pins are pressed, then
insert the plunger.
• Insert 5th/reverse synchro assembly and
5th/reverse fork with reverse sliding gear.
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(Use aluminium 5th fork for strut type synchro)
• Insert ball and spring after 5th reverse rail assembly.
• Ensure to apply Locktite 574 to detent plug and put torque of 25 ~ 30 Nm.
• Place NRB before 5th Gear Placement; Use 5th gear (Without stopper on CB ring) to avoid 5th
gear slippage.
• There will not be gear shifting if split pin is not pressed.

• Crash shifting will happen if split pin is fouling.
• If there is no rail end gap, it may foul and make hard shifting complaint.
5th DRIVING & DRIVEN GEAR ASSEMBLY

• Keep roller bearing on 5th driven gear,
ensure that cone is downward side.
• Ensure that brass ring is placed below the 5th
driving gear.
• Match 5th gear tooth and press the gears.
• Ensure output shaft sleeve free rotation
after pressing 5th driven gear.
• Place spacer on the 5th driving gear sub
shaft.
• Use 5th driving gear without worm for 4WD
type transmission.
• Ensure fitment of 1.1 mm standard shim over sub shaft gear.
• Ensure presence of spacer on 5th driving gear.
• Ensure fitment of circlip on 5th driven gear.
• If gear not pressed properly then it will lead to reverse gear failure.
• If 5th spacer shimming not done properly then it will lead to 5th gear slippage.
SPEEDO SLEEVE SUB ASSEMBLY
• Ensure correct direction while assembling the oil seal.
• Ensure proper fitment of oil seal after installation.
REAR HOUSING FITMENT
• Press sub shaft inner race bearing with help

of impactor.
• Fit pre coated Puppet Plug in 4th rail bore.
• Apply 10-15 NM Torque On pre coated
puppet plug & Detent Plug.
• Use fevicol on the speedo sleeve threads and
assemble speedo gear.
• Speedo sleeve to be torque tighten to 30~40
Nm.
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CLUTCH HSG SUB ASSEMBLY & OIL SEAL PRESSING

• Ensure Proper placement of clutch housing
• Ensure fitment of ball stud before fitment of
sleeve thrust bearing.
• Ensure fitment of circlip after proper
pressing of Sleeve thrust bearing.
• Ensure ball stud torque (17-22 Nm)
• Ensure proper application of sealant
(anabond - 412) around the Outer diameter
of sleeve thrust bearing for proper retention.
• Use proper locator & dolly for Eagle & NEF

clutch housing.
1. Sleeve thrust bearing not seated

properly - Oil leakage.
2. Ball stud not fitted - Clutch can't be
operated in vehicle assembly
3. If oil seal is not pressed properly it will
cause oil seal leakage.
LEVER SUB ASSEMBLY

• Use New Retainer plate & Spring as shown in
picture.
• Place circlip over pivot with the help of
fixture.
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• Place bottom grommet over pivot.
• Place circlip over bottom grommet with its
grove facing towards 1st-2nd biasing, as
shown in picture.
• Wrong use of lever spring causes to lever rattling.

• Wrong direction of bottom grommet circlip causes leakage from grommet.
Intermediate Plate assembly -
• Press wire ring over idler shaft with fixture as

shown in illustration.
• Keep idler shaft and tight its M10 mounting

bolt to torque 43 ± 7 Nm.
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• Assemble Bearing retainer plate by
tightening its mounting bolts.
NOTE:
Put Anabond 111 to the 6 nos. M8 size mounting

bolts.
CAUTION:
• Ensure counter shaft bearing is pressed such that bearing should be flushing with the rear face
of the plate.
• Ensure torque on M10 bolts for idler shaft. Torque value 43 ± 7 Nm.
NOTE:
• If Wire ring is not fitted properly then it will cause reverse gear crash shifting or Hard Shifting.
• If outer race missing then it will lead to Gearbox noisy & seizure due to oil leakage.
5th Reverse Hub Sub assembly (Double DOP) –

Do entire assembly of 5th/Rev hub on press fitted hub along with sub shaft or do separate sub
assembly of 5th/Rev hub & then press it on sub shaft.
CAUTION:
In case assembly is not proper, hard shifting or reverse gear failure may occur.
• Match the sleeve in hub with respective

direction. (Plain side of sleeve & grooved
side of hub on upper side.
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• Insert three struts. Small length on rev side
& big length on 5th side.
• Insert the C-SPRING covering all three struts.
• Place the BELLE VELLE WASHER in hub with

tapper angle down side.
• Place the PROTECTOR & fix the circlip by

hammering using dolly.
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• Rotate entire assembly on opposite side i.e.
5th side & fix the C-SPRING.
• Check the entire assembly for the fitment.
• Use Double DOP hub having groove on OD.
• In case synchro key is missing or fitted in wrong direction, no shifting will takes place or synchro
will damage in running.
• If sleeve is fitted in opposite direction, no shifting will takes place.
• In case C-spring missing or if it is not covering one key, crash shifting occurs.
• If belle velle washer is missing gear box noise may come.
• Gear box will jammed in case of circlip is missing.
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Double Cone Synchronizer
Double cone synchronizer consists of Hub, sleeve, struts, inner ring, outer ring and intermediate ring
with a friction element.
Place hub on the plain surface and install sleeve

on to the hub as shown in the picture. Please
ensure big groove comes exactly in center of the
hub slot.
Place 3 nos. struts at each slot of the hub. Push

struts against sleeve and slid in the grove.
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NOTE:
Be careful, struts should not jump out of ring,

causes injury.
Place outer ring on the hub by engaging ring’s

projections in to hub pockets.
Place intermediate ring as shown in the picture,

three tang should come in front of groove on the
hub.
Hub groove and outer ring tangs are shown in

illustration.
Place inner ring by engaging tangs with the

pocket of outer ring. For reference: marking on
the inner ring should come exactly in center of
groove on the hub.
A:Hub Groove
B:Marking on the inner ring
C:Outer ring tags
Place 1stgear by engaging intermediate ring’s

tang with the three cuts on the dog plate of gear.
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Please ensure other synchronizer assembly
remains in the same position.
Invert the above whole assembly and put on to

the Gear box shaft.
Put outer ring, intermediate ring, inner ring and

2ndgear as described above.
Refer illustration of full double cone assembly –

1st & 2nd.
Speedo Sleeve Sub Assembly –
CAUTION:
• Ensure proper direction of oil seal during assembly.
• Ensure proper pressing of oil seal.
NOTE:
• In case oil seal is not pressed properly or damages while assembling, oil leak issue may occur.
Adaptor Pivot Assembly / Lever Sub Assembly -

• Use New Retainer plate & Spring as shown in
picture.
• Place circlip over pivot with the help of
fixture.
• Place bottom grommet over pivot.
• Place circlip over bottom grommet with its
grove facing towards 1st-2nd biasing, as
shown in illustration.
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• Wrong use of lever spring causes to lever rattling.

• Wrong direction of bottom grommet circlip causes leakage from grommet.
• After adaptor dowel fitment, put the adaptor pivot on fixture/ assembly table.
NOTE:
• If pivot not entering s/a fixture fully then check whether the pivot pin is inserted fully.
Torque 3 M8 Bolts. - 24 ± 4 Nm.
• Assemble the gear bottom lever into the

Transmission assembly.
NOTE:
• The TM bottom lever assembly differs from
vehicle to vehicle as the NGT 520
Transmission is used for Xylo mDICRDe,
Scorpio M2Di, and in Bolero variants.
• Bottom lever shown in Illustration belongs to
Scorpio M2Di model.
• Assemble the correct gear bottom lever into the adaptor pivot assembly. Refer illustrations -
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• Assemble the nylon bush, spring and retension plate. Refer illustartions.
NOTE:
• Ensure bush fittment. In case bush is missing, improper shifting or lever rattling may occur.
• After placing retension plate, press it and

then install the plunger and spring.
• Plunger and Spring fittmnet.

NOTE:
• In case plunger or spring is missing, biasing will not takes place.
• In case wrong spring used the biasing force will not ok.
• Side cover plate fittment. Ensure proper bolt fittment and torquing.
NOTE:
• In case bolt is missing or not torqued properly, the incorrect biasing may occur.
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• Torque the side cover bolts to the torque

value 8 ± 2 Nm.
Lever Fittment -
• Apply inadequate sealant on the adaptor

pivot bottom side mating face.
Refer illustration.
• Put the rubber below over bottom lever and
adaptor pivot.
• After fitment of Bottom lever assembly into the Transmission, torque the adaptor pivot to 24 ± 4
Nm torque.
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• Ensure proper location of pivot assy. with
help of dowel. - Pivot pin facing downwards.
• Fit pivot pin with pivot insertion & pressing
impactor dolly.
• Apply silicon sealant on pivot.
• Fit pivot by tapping it.
• Use new Rubber grommet along with new

metal clip.
• Keep the clips of the metal tie clip towards
5th/rev gear side.
• Apply sealant (Anabond 413/ Loctite 648) on

breather cap.
Adapter Pivot & Gear Neutral Switch Fitment -
• Place the sensor on retainer plate.

• Put two lugs of sensor on plate hole and
press it.
• Fit two bolts of M8 40 on sensor lugs and fit
one bolt of M8 20 on plate. Torque them 29
± 2 Nm.
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• Put 6 mm gauge between Magnet and
sensor while fitting to ensure gap (6 mm)
between them.
• Fit the Allen screw with help of screw driver;
apply 2.5 ± 0.5 Nm torque.
• Fit the grommet on pivot.
 Assembly Inspection -
Make sure that the following check points to be carried out after completion of Transmission
assembly and before fitting it on vehicle –
• Check for presence of railed caps.

• Check for presence of breather.
• Check for static shifting.
• Check for biasing.
• Check for presence of countershaft spacer.
• Check for presence of one number M10 flange bolt with hole.
• Check for reverse lamp switch lead damage.
• Check for drain plug torque (check if it is loose by hand)
• Check for presence of filler plug.
Recommendation –
Mahindra & Mahindra recommends that after the fitment of Transmission assembly on vehicle,
check all the parameters ensure all the fitments are completed and do vehicle drives test to check
Transmission behaviour as well as vehicle performance.
Vehicle to be run in neutral condition for 5 to 10 min for proper churning or lubrication of oil.
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Figure Description Value
Type Mechanical
Description NGT 530 R
Gears 5 Forward and one reverse gear
Gear shift Direct shift with rubberized lever
Gears Helical- toothed
1 3 5 Gear Engagement Block synchro ring type synchronizer

on 1,2,3,4 & 5th
2 4 R
Gear Ratio
1st 3.78
2nd 2.09
3rd 1.38
4th 1.00
5th 0.79
Reverse
3.52
Oil grade/ quantity SAE 75W90; API GL 4
Oil Capacity: 1.8 litres.
Counter shaft bearing One ball bearing & one Cylindrical

roller.
Input Torque capacity 30 Kg-m.
Weight 68 Kg
Kg
Play Limit (mm) Service limit(mm)

1st 0.175 0.375
2nd 0.175 0.375
 3rd
4th
0.175 0.375
0.175 0.375
5th 0.18 0.3
Fork to groove clearances/ 0.1 to 0.4 mm
Page 200
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Sealant Specification
Sr. No. Location Sealant / Thread Locks Applicability
1 Ft. Hsg. & Intermediate Plate Loctite 574 
2 Intermediate Plate & Rear Hsg. Loctite 574 
3 Clutch Hsg. & Front Hsg. Loctite 510 

Anabond 413
4 Breather 
( Retaining Grade )
RTV Sealant Metlock 920
5 Pivot locking Option 1 – Rhodorseal 
Option 2 – Pidiseal 3P
Between Clutch Hsg. & OD of Ft.
6 Loctite 510 
Bearing Retainer
Clutch Release Bearing support
7 Loctite 510 
sleeve
8 Poppet Plug M 12X1.25 Loctite 542 
Tightening Sequence
Description Torque in Nm
Transmission decking with engine 80 ± 10Nm
Tee 3 way assembly to gear carrier 8 ± 2Nm
Grommet and retainer plate fitment on bell housing 4.5 ± 0.5Nm
Gear shift lever fitment 33 ± 4Nm
Gear shift dust shield fitment on body 3 + 0.5Nm
Transmission gear shift knob fitment to shift lever 6.5 + 0.5Nm
Plug - Shift Rail Poppet Spring
12.5 ± 2.5 Nm
For 1st/2nd & 3rd/4th & For 5th / Rev = 20 – 28 Nm
Bolt / Nut – Clutch Housing To Main Housing 30 ± 5 Nm
Flange Bolt – Front Intermediate & Rear Housing 35 ± 5 Nm
Drain plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Filler plug 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Reverse light switch 27.5 ± 2.5 Nm
Bolt - Idler Shaft 43 ± 7 Nm
Bolt - Bearing Retainer Plate 31 ± 4 Nm
Lever Retention Bolt 24 ± 4 Nm
Lever Assy. Side Cover Plate 8 ± 2 Nm
Speedometer Sleeve 35 ± 5 Nm
Bolt – Gear Box to Transfer case 30 ± 5 Nm
Bolt – Front Companion Flange 35 ± 5 Nm
Transfer Case cover screw 30 ± 5 Nm
Page 201
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List of Special Tools(MST)
Description/ Part No./ Sketch Usage View
Press Plate 5th Gear Removal

MST – 502
Press Block 5th Gear Removal

MST – 505
Output Shaft Roller Bearing Press

MST – 507
Page 202
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Press Plate For Input Shaft

MST – 511
Rear Housing Seal Installing Ring

MST – 512
Support Transmission
MST – 522
Page 203
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Extract 5th Gear
MST – 523
Reverse Sub Shaft

Bearing
MST – 524
Extractor For Roller Bearing On 5th

Gear MST – 525
Page 204
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Extract 5th Gear
MST – 523 with Extra Large Fork
Universal Bearing Removal Tool
Page 205
Transfer Case (BW)
Table of Content
Description……………………………………………………………………….…….……………..........
Trouble Shooting…………………………………..…………………………….…………………………
Care of the System………….…………………………………………………………….……………….
In Car Repair………..………………………………………………………………...........................
Dismantling and Overhauling……………………………………………….…………………..……
Inspection of the Components………………………………………………………………….……
Assembly Procedure...…………………………………………..……………………………………….
Technical Specification………….……………………………………………………………………….
Torque Specification……………………………………………………………………………………….
List of Special Tool (MST).……………………………………………………………………………….
Page 206
Description
Electronic Transfer Case‐Overview
A. Electronic Transfer Case

Description and Operation
The Divgi‐Warner’s two‐speed, part‐time electronic shift transfer case consists of a shift motor, speed
sensor, electric clutch and transfer case Electronic Control Unit (ECU). The mode selector switch
located on the centre console, which is used to select the transfer case mode and mode indicator
(4WH and 4WL) are on the dash board. The wiring harness connects the above parts with the power
input.
The power received by the input shaft and is coupled to the two output shafts of the transfer case.
One of the output shafts is fixed to the rear axle and other is fixed to the front axle.
The planetary gear set provides gear reduction. The power is transferred to the front wheel drive
through a Morse HY‐VO chain drive. The oil pump provides lubrication to the planetary gear set and
the upper output shaft components. The 2H, 4H and 4L modes are obtained by rotating the selector
switch, which in turn gives a signal to the transfer case ECU that controls the operations. The transfer
case ECU senses the conditions and shifts the transfer case as per the selected mode.
The transfer case allows both two and four wheel drive operations. The HY‐VO chain‐driven output in
the transfer case provides four wheel drive for the vehicle. The positive displacement oil pump and
filter in the transfer case assures full lubrication while driving or towing the vehicle, reducing
maintenance needs. The helical gearing provides quiet and low‐range operation. The four‐wheel drive
indicator light on dash board indicates the four wheel drive. The electromagnetic‐on‐the‐fly
shift
provides effortless engagement of four wheel drive high mode at highway speeds. However the four
wheel drive low engagement, vehicle should be at zero speed and should be in neutral.
The auto‐locking hub should be lubricated as per the maintenance schedule.
Page 207
Power to the road wheels is transferred via mechanical units called as auto‐locking hubs. When 4WD
is selected the auto‐locking hubs lock the axle shaft to the wheel hub. This mechanical locking will
occur when the vehicle is driven in either forward or reverse direction. In case the mode is shifted to
2WD, the vehicle has to driven in either forward or reverse direction for few feet. Disengagement of
the auto‐locking hubs can be identified by clicking sound from the units.
4H - Four Wheel High

All four wheels are driven at 1:1 speed ratio. The
four wheel drive lamp illuminates when 4H mode
is selected. This mode provides additional
traction and maximum pulling power for loose,
slippery road surfaces such as ice, snow, gravel,
sand and dry pavement. Front and rear drive
shafts are locked together in this mode which
forces the front and rear wheels to rotate at the
same speed.
4L - Four Wheel Low

All four wheels are driven at 2.48:1 speed ratio.
Use this mode for maximum pulling power and
traction. Use 4L position for climbing or
descending steep hills, ‐road
off driving, hard
pulling in sand, mud or deep snow. Driving in the
4L position on dry hard surfaced roads may cause
increased tire wear and damage to driveline
components. Front and rear drive shafts are
locked together in this mode which forces the
front and rear wheels to rotate at the same
speed. Take care not to over rev the engine and
do not exceed 20 mph when driving in this mode.
When operating your vehicle in 4L, the engine
speed is considerably higher than that of the 4H
position at a given road speed.
Because four-wheel drive provides improved traction, there is a tendency to exceed safe turning and
stopping speeds. Do not go faster than the permitted road conditions. Do not shift to a lower gear
than necessary to maintain forward motion. Over-revving the engine can spin the wheels and traction
will be lost. Avoid abrupt down shifts on slippery roads, engine braking may cause skidding and loss of
control.
Page 208
Shifting Procedure
Shifting Between 2H and 4H
To shift from 4H to 2H, turn the selector switch

knob to 2H position. This can be done at any
speed from 0‐60 mph. 4WD HIGH lamp in the
instrument cluster goes out. If the lamp continues
to illuminate, drive straight ahead accelerating or
decelerating, or drive forward and backward in a
short distance. If the lamp continues to
illuminate, contact an authorized Mahindra USA
dealer as soon as possible. There may be a
malfunction in your four wheel drive system.
Your vehicle is equipped to shift from 2H to 4H

mode at any vehicle speed from‐60 0 mph. To
shift from 2H to 4H turn the selector switch to 4H
position. Once the shifting is complete 4WD HIGH
lamp in the instrument cluster illuminates. If the
lamp doesn't come on, drive straight ahead
accelerating or decelerating. If the lamp still
doesn't come ON, contact your an authorized
Mahindra USA dealer as soon as possible. There
may be a malfunction in the four wheel drive
system.
Never operate the selector switch knob if the wheels are slipping. Stop the slipping or spinning before
operating.
The vehicle uses automatic hub lock system to engage or disengage the front wheels. Once the 2H
mode is selected from either 4H or 4L, whenever possible drive vehicle in reverse direction for 1 to 1.5
meters to disengage the au‐tomatic locking Hubs. If the vehicle still seems to be engaging the front
wheels, drive the vehicle in reverse for further few meters to make sure that the auto hub locks are
disengaged completely.
Page 209
Shifting from 4H to 4L
Bring the vehicle to a complete stop with the
brake pedal depressed. Shift the TGS lever into N
(Neutral). Turn the four wheel drive selector
switch to 4L position. 4WD LOW lamp in the
cluster should illuminate and 4WD HIGH lamp
goes out. If 4WD LOW lamp doesn't illuminate
within 10 sec. Repeat the above steps again.
Shifting from 4L to 4H
Bring the vehicle to a complete stop with the
brake pedal depressed. Shift the TGS lever into N
(Neutral). Turn the four wheel drive selector
switch to 4H position. 4WD LOW lamp in the
cluster goes out and 4WD HIGH lamp should
illuminate. If 4WD LOW lamp doesn't go out
within 10 sec., drive forward or reverse for short
distance, stop the vehicle completely, shift the
TGS lever into N (Neutral) and operate the
selector switch knob again. If the problem
persists contact an authorized Mahindra USA
dealer as soon as possible. There may be a
malfunction in the four wheel drive system.
Page 210
Trouble Shooting Inspection and Verification

1. Verify the customer‘s concern.
2. Visually inspect the transfer case for any noticeable signs of mechanical damage.
3. If an obvious cause is found during the inspection, correct the same before proceeding next step.
4. If the cause is not visually evident, verify the symptom and refer to troubleshooting chart.
Mechanical
•Check for any oil leakage in the transfer case.
•Check the yoke, flange, drive gear and shift motor for any damage.
•Check for loose mounting bolts.
Electrical
•Check for any damage and continuity in the transfer case wiring harness.
•Check for malfunction of the transfer case module and 2W/4W change switches.
Troubleshooting Chart
Symptom Possible Causes Remedy
No front wheel drive when 1. Broken drive chain link‐age. 1. Check the drive chain and
shifted to 4WD. re‐place it if necessary.
2. Shift motor faulty 2. Check the motor, replace if
necessary.
3. Selection switch faulty 3. Check the selection switch,
re‐place if necessary.
4. TCCU faulty 4. Check and replace the TCCU.
5. Faulty wiring harness 5. Check the wiring harness and
rectify the problem.
Noise during 4WD operation. 1. Transfer case oil level is too 1. Drain old oil and fill the
low. transfer case with specified oil.
(Make sure that noise comes 2. Loose bolts or mounting parts 2. Tighten the bolts and nuts to
from the transfer case and not of transfer case. the specified torque.
from clutch, transmission, drive 3. Noisy or worn transfer case 3. Disassemble the transfer case
shaft, au-tomatic locking hubs bearings. parts, and check the bearings
or other components.) for wear or damage, and
4. Worn or damaged gears. replace it if necessary.
4. Check for wear and damage
of the gear including
speedometer gear and replace
5. Worn or damaged sprockets. necessary parts.
5. Disassemble and check the
sprockets for wear and damage,
replace if it is worn-out.
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Transfer case oil leakage. 1. Cracked transfer case. 1. Replace the transfer case.
2. Clogged breather. 2. Remove and clean the
breather. Replace it if
necessary.
3. Oil level is high or im‐proper 3. Use the recommended oil
brand of oil is used. and maintain correct oil level.
4. Sealing bolts are loose. 4. Tighten the bolts to the
specified torque.
5. Improper brand of seal ‐ant 5. Use recommended sealant
used or improperly applied and ensure proper application.
sealant.
6. Worn or damaged oil seal. 6. Replace the oil seal.
Electronic shift problems. 1. Faulty or damaged‐CU, TC 1. For additional information

speed sensor, clutch or internal refer to MDS.
wiring.
2. Damaged or worn shift cam, 2. Disassemble the transfer case
hub, fork or rail shaft and check for wear and damage.
Replace the necessary parts.
3. 2W/4W shift motor 3. Check and replace the shift
malfunction. mo‐tor if necessary.
Electronic Transfer Case 1. Check for external damages. 1. If external damages are found
replace the Transfer Case.
2. Check for external damages 2. If wirings are damaged, check
to the wirings of Transfer case. and rectify if necessary replace
the affected components.
3. Check for oil leakages. 3. Take suitable action and
replace the required seals.
Selector Switch 1. Check for external damages 1. Replace the selector switch.
to the switch.
2. Check the rotary knob for 2. If the switch is hard to
ease of operation. operate the replace it.
3. Check the electrical 3. If the electrical connection to
connection to the rotary knob. the rotary knob is burnt then
replace the wiring.
Electronic Transfer Case ECU 1. Check for damages/corrosion 1. If corrosion is observed then
to the electrical terminals of the clean the terminals with the
ECU. suitable agents. If damages are
observed to the electrical
connection to the ECU, then
replace the components.
2. If external damages are found
2. Check for external damages. replace the components.
Page 212
In Car Repair
Removal
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative terminal of

the battery.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from
the transfer case.
4. Disconnect the front and rear propeller shafts
from the transfer case.
5. Using a 0.63”(16mm) socket and wrench set,
remove the bolts (A) and detach the transfer case
supporting bracket (B).
6. Remove the drain plug (A) and drain the

transfer case fluid into a suitable container.
(Transfer case assembly is removed for clarity)
7. Using a transmission jack, support the transfer

case.
8. Using a 0.31” (8mm) Allen key, remove the
mounting bolts (A) and detach the transfer case
(B) from the transmission.
Page 213

10. Tighten all bolts and nuts to the specified
torque.
11. Using a suitable spanner, remove the oil filling
plug (A) from the transfer case.
12. Fill up oil in the transfer case and then insert

the 0.31” (8mm) Allen key (A).
13. Remove the Allen key and check the oil level
mark (B). Refill the oil into the oil filling plug (A) if
the oil level is below the maximum level mark.
Page 214
14. Using a suitable spanner, tighten the oil filling

plug (A) in the transfer case.
Disassembly
1. Position the transfer case on the repair fixture
(A).
Dropping of heavy/large objects will damage the

part and cause personal injury.
Ensure the oil is drained prior to disassembly of

the transfer case.
2. By holding the transfer case rear yoke flange

with a flange holder (A), remove the lock nut and
washer and pull out the yoke with a puller.
Page 215
3. Separate the oil seal (A) and nut (C) from the
yoke flange (B).
4. Remove the mounting bolts from the bracket

and take out the Speedo body (A).
5. Separate the Speedo driven gear shaft (A) and

Speedo body (B).
Page 216
6. Using a suitable flat screw driver, remove the

oil (A) seal from the rear casing.
7. Remove the Speedo drive gear from the rear

case.
8. Using a 0.39” (10mm) spanner, remove the

mounting bolts (A) and remove the speed sensor
bracket (B) and the motor (C).
Page 217
9. Gently pull and detach the sensor from the rear

casing.
To avoid damage of the metal surface, apply

limited force to the bosses on the cover and the
transfer case while breaking the sealant bond.
10. Using a 0.63” (16mm) socket and wrench set

remove the nine mounting bolts (A) and remove
the identification tag (B).
11. Separate the front case assembly (A) and the

rear case assembly (B).
Page 218
12. Separate the return spring (A) from the rear

casing by pulling those outwards.
13. Using a 0.39” (10mm) ring spanner, remove

the clutch coil mounting nut (A).
14. Remove the clutch coil wiring (single pin) (A)

from the connector (B).
Page 219
15. Detach the clutch coil separately from the

rear casing cover.
16. Using suitable flat screw drivers (A), remove

the snap ring (B).
17. Remove the ball bearing (A) from the rear

casing.
Page 220
18. Using a MST, pull out the needle bearing (A)

from the rear casing cover.
Care must be taken not to damage the metal

surface while removing the needle bearing.
19. Remove the shifting fork and clutch housing

(A) from the output shaft.
20. Using a Circlip pliers (A), remove the Circlip (B)

from the output shaft.
Page 221
21. Remove the 2W‐4W lock up assembly (A),

lock up fork with sprocket (B) and drive chain (C)
from the output shaft.
22. Detach the 2W‐4W shifting fork.
23. Separate the drive chain.
Page 222
24. Separate the clutch plate (A) and the 2W

sprocket (B).
25. Remove the output shaft (A) and the gear

rotor pump (B).
26. Separate the gear rotor pump and strainer

assembly from the output shaft.
Page 223
27. Unlock the clip (E), and separate the output

shaft (A), gear rotor pump (B), the hose (C) and
the strainer (D).
28. Remove the magnet (A) from the front casing.
29. Remove the shaft assembly (A) from front

side of the transfer case.
Page 224
30. Remove the cam and shaft assembly (A).
31. Separate the reduction hub (A) and the

reduction fork (B) from the case.
32. Remove the input shaft from the front casing.
Page 225
33. Unlock the snap ring (A) and remove the

bearing (B).
34. Using a yoke holder (A) and a socket and

wrench set (B), remove the lock nut, washer and
oil seal then pull out the front yoke assembly.
35. Using a 0.63” (16mm) socket and wrench set,

remove the adapter input shaft and carrier
assembly bolt (A).
Page 226
36. Remove the carrier adapter front oil seal (A).
37. Remove the snap ring (A), and pull out the
input shaft and the sun gear from the carrier.
38. Remove the bush from the input shaft carrier

assembly.
Page 227
39. Remove the needle bearing from the input

shaft carrier assembly.
40. Separate the carrier assembly.
41. Remove the input shaft assembly from the

carrier assembly.
Page 228
42. Remove the sun gear thrust plate from the

input shaft.
43. Using an outer Circlip pliers, unlock the

bearing lock Circlip (A) and remove the bearing
(B).
Do not remove the ring gear shown in the below

figure from the case.
Page 229
Inspection
1. Visually check all the parts for any damage and distortion.
2. Check the magnet for the presence of any metal particles which indicates internal damage of the
transfer case parts.
3. Referring to normal gear tooth face, specifically inspect the uneven wear, chips of gear tooth and
bearings. Replace the parts if necessary.
Cleaning
1. Using recommended cleaning solvent clean the oil and dirt parts.
2. After cleaning, dry the parts by blowing low pressure compressed air.
Assembly
1. Insert dowel pins (A) to the ring gear casing.
Dropping of heavy/large objects will damage the

part and cause personal injury.
2. Press the ball bearing (B) and install the

retainer ring to the front casing (A).
Check the ball bearing for functionality prior to

installation.
Page 230
3. Install the input shaft (A) into the front casing.
Check the oil seal prior to installation. In case of

any external damages are observed, and then
replace the oil seal.
4. Using a MST, install an oil seal (A) into the

carrier assembly body.
5. Using a Circlip pliers (A), expand the snap ring

(B) and press the ball bearing with bearing
installer (C) and lock it in correct position.
Check the ball bearing and the oil seal for

dam‐ages prior to installation. In case any
damages are observed, then replace the affected
component. Always ensure correct installation of
the bearing and the oil seal.
Page 231
6. Install the needle bearing (A) into the carrier

assembly input shaft.
7. Install the bush into the carrier assembly input

shaft.
8. Install the input shaft (A) to the carrier

assembly (B) by matching the splines.
Page 232
9. Install the thrust plate to the input shaft.
10. Using a Circlip pliers (A), expand the snap ring

and insert the carrier assembly with input shaft
(B) to the adapter case.
11. Apply a 0.06” (1.6mm) bead of sealant on the

mounting face for the transfer case and tighten
the mounting bolts.
Page 233
12. Install the adapter input shaft and carrier

assembly to the case, and using a 0.63” (16mm)
socket and wrench set, tighten the mounting nuts
(A) to specified torque.
13. Install the breather nipple.
14. Position the output shaft (A) in transfer case,

and install the end yoke assembly (C), seal,
washer (B) and lock nut (D).
Page 234
15. Using the MST yoke holder (A), socket and

wrench set (B) and torque wrench, tighten the
front flange mounting lock nut to specified
torque.
16. Install the reduction hub (A) and reduction

shift fork (B) into the front casing.
17. Install the electric shift cam (A).
Position the cam on the spring and rotate it in

anti‐clockwise direction, push the spring to‐wards
left along with cam and fix it on the drive tang.
Page 235
18. Install the fork shaft (A) in the reduction hub

housing.
19. Install the magnet (A) into body.
20. Assemble the strainer and hose (A) to the

gear rotor pump (B). Tighten with the hose clip
(C).
Page 236
21. Align the gear rotor pump with the output

shaft.
Align the guide pin of the shaft to the slot on the

pump body and slide the pump assembly onto the
output shaft over pump pin.
22. Install the output shaft (A) and gear rotor

pump assembly (B) into the reduction hub
housing by matching the splines.
23. Position the drive sprocket (A) on the rear

output shaft end.
Page 237
24. Install the driven sprocket (A) on the front

output shaft end.
25. Install the drive chain (A) onto the sprocket.
Holding each sprocket with the drive chain tight

and parallel with the transfer case,‐stall
in the
drive chain assembly to the output shaft. Rotate
the driven sprocket slightly to en‐gage splines on
the front output shaft.
26. Install the snap ring (A) into the groove of the
front output shaft.
Page 238
27. Install the 2W‐4W lock up fork (A), the clutch

plate (B) and the clutch housing (C) to the output
shaft.
Check the ball bearing prior to installation. In case

of any external damages are observed, then
replace the ball bearing.
28. Using a bearing installer (A), press the ball

bearing into the rear casing.
29. Using a MST, install the bearing lock (A).
Page 239
30. Install the return spring (A) over rail shaft in

the transfer case.
31. Using a MST install the needle bearing (A) in

correct position and press it into the cover.
32. Insert the clutch coil assembly inside the

cover.
Insert the clutch coil wire into the hole in the

transfer case and pull it out.
Page 240
33. Tighten the coil mounting nut (A) to specified

torque.
34. Apply a 0.06” (1.6mm) bead of loctite

(RTV598) to the transfer case mounting surface
(A).
Align both the cover holes with the transfer case

dowel pins. Align the cover bearings with the
output shaft and the shift shaft with the cover
boss.
Align the cover blind hole with rail shaft and make
sure that the return spring is not cocked.
35. Position an identification tag (B) and tighten

the casing bolts (A) to the specified torque.
Page 241
36. Install the Speedo gear output shaft spline in

the cover assembly.
37. Using the MST, install a new oil seal into the
cover assembly.
38. Install the flange (A) with seal and washer on

the output shaft. Tighten the lock nut.
Do not fully tighten the bolts at this stage.
Page 242
39. Insert the sensor (A) into its position.
40. Apply a 0.06” (1.6mm) bead of loctite

(RTV598) at the motor and transfer case mating
surfaces.
41. Position the motor (C) and the Speedo sensor

bracket (B) in its position and tighten the
mounting bolts (A) to specified torque.
Position the motor in its position by aligning it

with the shift shaft.
Page 243
42. Assemble the Speedo driven gear shaft (B)

and Speedo body (A).
43. Install the Speedo sensor assembly (A) in its

position on the cover, and using a 0.39”(10mm)
spanner, tighten the mounting bolt to specified
torque.
44. Install the transfer case supporting brackets

(B) and tighten the mounting bolts (A) to
specified torque.
Page 244
45. Using the MST, tighten the rear flange lock

nut (A) to specified torque.
46. Remove the transfer case from the repair

fixture.
Post installation of the transfer case on to the

vehicle, fill and check the oil level.
Page 245
Transfer Case Electric Shift Circuit Diagram

Circuit Diagram
Page 246
Self diagnosis of ECU:
ECU detects transfer case system malfunctions and indicates malfunctioning part(s) through flashing
indicator lights. The operator will be alerted of fault condition by continuous illumination of both 4WD
HI and 4WD LO lights on dashboard when ignition is on.
A service connector is provided to indicate the fault codes in binary. Connect one end to the pin whole
number 9 in ECU connector, and other end to the ignition switch. The flashing of indicator light will
show the defective code (as illustrated in the table). Identify the malfunctioning part and replace it.
L1 L2 L3 Binary Decimal Fault With

Code Equivalent
Off Off On 001 1 ECU Module
Off On Off 010 2 Shifter Motor
Off On On 011 3 Synchronizer Clutch
On Off Off 100 4 Speed Sensor
On On Off 110 6 Selector Switch
On On On 111 7 Motor Position Switch
Before replacing the malfunctioning parts with defective codes, check the wires and connectors for
proper condition. Use only 12v 3-watt bulb for diagnostic purpose.
If only one part is malfunctioning, the indicator light will display defective code three times
continuously. If more than two parts are malfunctioning, the first malfunctioning part will be displayed
three times and then the other malfunctioning parts will be displayed.
After repair clear the fault stored in the memory. Ground the service connector and keep ignition 'On'
for five seconds continuously to erase defective code.
Connect a service connector as described earlier. Turn the ignition switch On. 4WD CHECK indicator
will turn on for 0.6 seconds and turn Off for 3 seconds. Then it will display a defective code 3 times
continuously.
Page 247
The chart for the defect codes reference is enclosed
Page 248
Automatic Locking Hub

Construction
When 4‐wheel drive is selected, the automatic hub locks the axle shaft to the wheel hub. This occurs
when the vehicle is driven in either forward or reverse direction. The hub unlocks when 2 ‐wheel drive
is selected, and the vehicle is driven in the opposite direction for a few feet.
The 4 Tanged washers are held in place on the Wheel Spindle. The cut outs on the drag sleeve (26) fit
over the tangs on the washer, preventing the drag sleeve from rotating. The brake band (24) fits over
the serrated portion of the drag sleeve. The tangs of the brake band are fitted through the window in
the steel inner cage (21). The plastic outer cage (20) fits over the inner cage. Each tang of the brake
band fits through each cut out in the outer cage. The cam follower (19) is attached to the clutch gear
(15). The follower profile on the cam follower (A) ride against the cam faces or ramps of the steel
inner cage. The clutch gear slides on the splines on the outside the hub sleeve (16). The axle shaft(C) is
splined to the inside of the hub sleeve. The large teeth on the outside of the clutch gear can engage
the teeth inside the outer clutch housing (9).The outer clutch housing is bolted to the wheel hub. An
End Cap (2) fits over the hub lock assembly. The end cap contains a bearing assembly (6) that supports
the other end of the hub sleeve. The End Cap is fitted with Aluminium Decorative Plate (1) for better
aesthetics.
Briefly, this is what happens when the hub locks.
The clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19) rotate up the cam face of the inner cage (21). This causes
the clutch gear to move outward on the hub sleeve (16). The outside teeth of the clutch gear engage
the inside teeth of the outer clutch housing (9), locking the wheel hub to the axle shaft.
Page 249
When the hub un‐locks,

The clutch gear and cam follower rotate in the opposite direction, back down the cam face of the
inner cage. Spring pressure forces the clutch gear inward, unlocking the wheel hub from the axle
shaft.
Construction
Now, let's see how the hub operates in detail. When ‐wheel
4 drive is engaged (and vehicle starts to
move), the axle shaft starts to turn the hub sleeve (16), clutch gear (15) and cam follower (19). The
steel inner cage (21) And plastic outer cage (20) also start to turn. (Remember, the drag sleeve (26) is
fixed to the wheel spindle and doesn't rotate) When the inner cage window hits the first brake band
tang (30) the band tightens up on the drag sleeve. This stops the inner cage. The cam follower (19) is
forced up the ramp of the inner cage (21).
As the cam follower moves up the ramp of the inner cage, it is moved outward along the hub sleeve
(16), pushing the clutch gear (15) into engagement with the outer clutch housing. The cam follower
(19) also pushes against the lugs of the outer cage (20). The outer cage tang contacts the second brake
band tang (30). This unlocks the brake band and allows it to turn freely on the drag sleeve serrations.
When 2‐wheel drive is selected to disengage the hubs and the vehicle is d riven in the opposite
direction for a few feet, the rotating front wheel turns the outer clutch housing, clutch gear (15) and
cam follower (19) in the opposite direction. The cam follower moves down the ramp of the inner cage
(20). The return spring (14) pushes the clutch gear (15) along the hub sleeve (16) and out of
engagement with the outer clutch housing.
Page 250
Symptoms Causes Remedial Action
Oil Leakage • A cracked or porous or  Replace the end cap.

Make sure that a suspected oil improper fitment of protective
leak is actually coming from the end cap.
hub. Oil leaks can originate in • Damaged or missing "O" rings.
 Fit a new ‘O’ ring.
the axle shaft (oil seal). • Incorrectly installed or  Fit properly.
damaged sealing ring of the End
Cap and outer clutch housing.
Does not engage/ disengage • Transfer case not engaging or  Replace the end cap.
Before disassembly of a locking disengaging front axle shaft.
hub, be sure the problem is • Viscosity of front differential  Check & fill proper lubricant.
caused by the hub and not lubricant too high (i.e. due to
another component in the drive cold weather).
train. • Front differential preload too  Rectify.
high.
 Rectify / Replace.
• Seized front axle shaft
bearing.
Noisy Operation
A broken or missing 4 tanged washer can cause problems in 2 or 4 ‐ wheel drive.
A broken or missing washer will allow the drag sleeve to rotate with the brake band. If the hub is not
engaged, the brake band is unable to lock on the drag sleeve and initiate the locking action of the
clutches. If the hubs are engaged, the brake band cannot be released to allow the clutch gear to
disengage.
A broken or missing brake band cannot lock the inner cage to engage the hub or be unlocked by the
outer sleeve to allow the clutch gear to disengage.
If both brake band tangs are touching the centre post of the outer sleeve, there cannot be proper
locking or unlocking action of the brake band through the movement of the inner cage and outer cage.
The centre post of the outer cage and the window of the inner cage move relative to each other when
the hub is locking or unlocking. If the cages are not rotating freely over each other, the hub may fail to
engage or disengage.
A sticking clutch gear can cause the hub to bind in either the engage or the disengage position. A
broken return spring will cause the hub to remain in the engaged position.
In each case, the defective component should be replaced with the correct part or assembly. Always
check the most recent parts list for the correct part numbers and available assemblies for the type of
the hub you are servicing.
Lubrication
• Remove drag sleeve assembly and keep aside DO NOT lubricate drag sleeve assembly as it is
permanently lubricated with Darmex grease.
• Check the brake band and drag sleeve serration for presence of appropriate quantity of grease and
wear, in case of insufficient grease, replace the drag sleeve.
• DO NOT remove the brake band as this could change the spring tension and affect hub operation.
• All components except drag sleeve assembly and outer bearing race assembly are lubricated by
dipping them in automatic transmission fluid. Allow excess fluid to drip off before assembling the hub.
Page 251
1. Loosen the end cap with the help of pin

spanner
2. Remove 6 nos. bolts
3. Pull out ALH from the wheel hub.
Page 252
Installation of Automatic Locking Hub

1. Make sure that the snap ring and spacer is installed on the axle shaft.
2. Make sure that the slots on the Drag Sleeve are engaging with the 4‐ tanged washer. Install the Hub
Lock in the wheel hub.
3. Rotate the Hub Lock to match the threaded holes of the wheel hub. Put 6 nos. bolts face to face.
4. Tighten 6 nos. bolts with the help of special Allen key to 5.5 to 6.5 kg‐m torque using Torque
Wrench.
5. Tight the end cap with the help of pin spanner.
Disassembly of Automatic Locking Hub
1. Remove the end cap and bearing race spring,

Remove the bearing inner race and retainer.
2. Invert assembly vertically so the drag sleeve
comes up.
3. Remove the snap ring with suitable pliers.

Exercise caution while removing the snap ring.
4. Remove the drag sleeve with brake band. To lift
out the drag sleeve, rotate it slightly to release
the brake band tangs from the sleeves and tilt it
up on the side opposite the tangs.
The clip doesn't need to be removed for the

nor‐mal servicing. However, if it's damaged,
remove it using thumbnail force only to avoid
stretching or distorting it. Do not remove the
brake band for normal servicing.
5. Remove the steel inner cage by pressing it over

the tang of the outer cage (in the window). Lift
the inner cage straight out, don't tilt it.
Page 253
6. Remove the plastic outer cage by prying one

lug out of the large groove in the outer clutch
housing.
7. Hold the lug and go on to the next one. It's
easiest to start with the lugs opposite the one
that fits into the window of the steel inner cage.
8. Slide the cam & follower assembly out of the

outer clutch housing.
Cleaning
1. Using a cleaning solvent, clean the all the parts except DRAGE SLEEVE since it is permanently
lubricated with Darmex grease.
2. After cleaning dry the parts with low pressure (20 psi maximum) compressed air.
3. Lubricate the bearings race with light wheel bearing grease and cam & follower assembly with ATF
oil. Protect lubricated parts from dust.
Cleaning
• Visually check all the parts for damage.
• Examine the protective end cap for cracks, O ‐ ring.
• Brake band for damage or distortion.
• Also, inspect the teeth on the cam follower, clutch gear and outer clutch housing for wear or damage.
When diagnosing a "ratcheting" hub, remember that the noisy hub is "NOT" always the defective one. It
depends on whether the hubs have just been disengaged. Let's examine why.
Page 254
If only one hub disengages after 2‐wheel drive is selected, the faulty hub transmits the wheel rotation
to the axle shaft. The mechanical situation is like a conventional axle raised off the ground. The axle
shaft drives the differential pinions through the side gear. The ring gear and cage are not turning, so the
other side gear and axle shaft are driven in the opposite direction to the first one. The axle shaft tries to
engage the hub against the direction of the wheel rotation, causing the noise from the hub. In this case,
the faulty hub is not making the noise. The ‐noisy
non hub should be checked. If 4‐wheel drive is
selected and only one hub engages, there may not be any noise from the hub, depending on the
malfunction. The only symptom might be a loss of drive at that hub. If the hub is "ratcheting" in 4‐wheel
drive, it should be inspected.
Assembly
1. Following assemblies are to be replaced as

sub‐assemblies only. (if replacement is needed)
2. Install the cam & follower assembly into the

outer clutch housing from the inside.
Page 255
3. Install the plastic outer cage into the large

groove in the outer clutch housing. The cage may
be easier to install if the tangs on the each side of
the cutout are installed first.
4. Install the steel inner cage inside the plastic

outer cage. (For clarity, the cages on the right are
shown outside the hub.) The window (A) must
engage the tang (B) of the outer cage for correct
positioning.
5. Install the large snap ring in the top groove of
the outer clutch housing.
6. Install the drag sleeve assembly in the inner

cage, so that the tangs of the brake band are
located on each side of the outer cage tang (C) and
in the window of the inner cage. Tilt the drag
sleeve slightly to engage the tangs, but be careful
not to cock the hub sleeve.
Page 256
7. Install the snap ring to the hub sleeve.
8. Install the outer bearing assembly, with the

retainer and bearing facing the interior of the hub
and the cap facing out.
9. Install the assembly end cap with the bearing
race spring.
Ensure that the ALH is in 'Unlock 'mode while

installing on the wheel hub.
Page 257
Description Specification
Configuration Part time, Single Offset
Rear output configuration Circular flange
Front output configuration Fixed yoke
Input configuration Female spline
Offset hand Right hand
Lubrication System Force lubrication by Gear rotor pump
Fluid type Castrol ATF ‐ TQ

HPCL ATF ‐ A
IOC Servo Transfluid ‐A
Chemoleum ‐ A
Housing Material Aluminum
Dry weight in kgs 30 Kgs. Aprox.
Fluid Capacity in liters 1.2
Shift Pattern 2H ‐ 4H ‐ 4L
4WH shift on the fly Optional
Shift Control Selector switch
Description Torque in Nm
Level oil drain plug 34 ± 6
Rear flange nut 355 ± 15
Front yoke nut 224 ± 20
Case bolts 34 ± 6
Motor bolts and coil nuts 10 ± 1
Speedo body bolt 10 ± 1
Page 258
List of Special Tools (MST)
Description Borg Warner Part No

Yoke Holder – 1 T – 10001
Seal – Driver T - 10003
Snap Ring Plier Adapter – 3 T – 10007
Snap Ring Plier - 4 T – 10006
Drift Ball Bearing – 5 T – 10053
Drift Ball Bearing Input Shaft – 6 T – 10056
Drift NRB Fitting Input Shaft – 7 T – 10054
Drift Bush Fitting Input Shaft – 8 T – 10055
Drift NRB Fitting Cover – 9 T – 10057
Repair Fixture – 10 T – 10037
Flange Holder – 11 T – 10012
Dust Deflector Press Tool - 12 T - 10188
Page 259

Workshop Manual Old Model Tharcrde

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REPAIR MANUAL

www.teknetmahindra.com Rev1 – MAY 2012

ALL INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS MANUAL IS MOST UP-TO-DATE AT THE TIME OF

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About the Repair Manual

• How to use this manual……………………………………………………………………….

How to use this manual

• Description section gives an overview of the functioning of the system.

Term Symbol Denotation

PARAMETER MM 540 THAR CRDe

Gear shifting control system (Sketch showing

No. of gears 5-Forward, 1-Reverse

Steering gear ratio 20:1

The high pressure pump & camshaft are chain driven.

Cylinder compression pressure Test

 Remove all the injectors.

Engine cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis

An engine cylinder head gasket leak can be:

A. Between adjacent cylinders

Cylinder head gasket failure between cylinders is indicated by

Cylinder to Cylinder Leakage Test

Cylinder to Water jacket Leakage Test

Symptom Causes Remedial action

Care of the System

• Check the vacuum hoses for any leaks, cracks.

• Retighten all nuts and bolts as per the recommend torque.

Tappet setting has to be carried out every 20000 Kms.

The in car repairs which can be carried out are:

• Accessory Belt tension adjustment

• Accessory belt removal & Refitment

• VFD Assembly with Fan Blade removal

• High Pressure pump Removal

• Oil filter changing

• Turbocharger removal & Refitment

• Cylinder head gasket Replacement

1. Remove the oil filler cap.

4. Remove the tappet cover.

6. Adjust the tappet clearance as per the following procedure …

1. Check the Belt Tension…

2. Adjust the belt tension ….

3. Repeat the procedure as per the Step-1

1. Loosen the Tensioner bolt to relieve the tension.

Fan Blade & Viscous Fan Drive Removal & Assembly –

Caution: Do not remove the accessory belt before

Note that the threads are anticlockwise threads. Hence

Do not tamper or service the center portion of the fan.

The nut should rest on pulley after tightening.

Remove tappet cover.

Bring the 1st cylinder in compression

To confirm the first cylinder TDC position remove the 1st

Remove the VFD assembly along with the fan blade

Remove the fan belt.

Remove the High Pressure Pump connections and fuel

Remove the injector pipes.

Rotate the engine to align three holes of High Pressure

FIT the three nos.-threaded pins on crankcase through

High Pressure Pump

FIP Removal Tool Assy

Lock Nut – Ensure to remove

Remove the right side wheel apron.

Remove the oil filter using the MST 545

• After removal, ensure that the central stud is fully tight.

Remove the right side wheel apron.