INSECT BIODIVERSITY AND EVOLUTION &

FIELD METHODS IN INSECT TAXONOMY

ENT 5021/ENT 5025

Kill Jars

Supplies: glass or plastic jar that can be well-sealed (screw cap, cork stopper)
cyanide crystals [KCN, NaCN, or Ca(CN)2], ethyl acetate, ammonium
carbonate
Plaster of Paris, porous foam plug
sawdust or other absorbent material
strong wrapping tape

Cyanide kill jar

KCN + H2O HCN + KOH

The following steps should be done in a well-ventilated area, preferably under a

laboratory hood! Wear lab gloves.

1. Place cyanide crystals in the bottom of the jar to a depth of about 1.5 cm.
2. Cover the crystals with about 1 cm of sawdust.
3. Add a thin layer of dry plaster of Paris.
4. In a separate container, mix plaster of Paris with water until it forms a thick paste,
about the consistency of mayonnaise or yoghurt. Working quickly before the plaster
solidifies, add about 1 cm of plaster of Paris on top of the sawdust. CAREFULL: if
the plaster is too liquid, the moisture will dissolve the cyanide.
5. Leave the jar open and let the plaster dry for several hours to days. Clean off any
excess plaster that may have gotten on the sides of the jar.
6. When the plaster has solidified, add several drops of water to the jar to activate the
cyanide crystals. Seal the jar, and within an hour or so, the killing jar will be
operative.
7. Each kill jar should be clearly labeled “POISON” and dated (month/year). The bottom
of the jar must be covered with adhesive tape, to cushion the glass against breakage
and to keep the glass from scattering if the jar breaks.

Advantages of Cyanide: Fast acting; durable - one jar will be effective for 2-3 years; no
need to carry liquid killing agent in the field.

Disadvantages: Some insects lose color; specimens may become brittle is left in jar too
long; highly toxic; disposal problem for spent jars; illegal to transport on airplanes.
Cyanide is a potent respiratory inhibitor, acts on mitochondrial cytochrome oxidase
and blocks electron transport, decreasing oxidative metabolism and oxygen
utilization.

1
Alternatives to cyanide jars:

Ethyl acetate (CH3COOCH2CH3) commonly used to saturate a plaster of Paris base in

a jar. Effective killing agent, but EtOAc is slower, evaporates quickly, causes container
and specimens to become moist (the latter advantageous because it keep specimens
soft and pliable for pinning, but it can also wet insects). Need to carry ethyl acetate in
field to recharge jars. EtOAc is a component of some fingernail polish removers (or
acetone, depending on brand) and fingernail polish remover will work in a pinch. Very
low toxicity (LD50 for rats is 11.3 g/kg).

Ammonium carbonate ((NH4)2CO3) bakers ammonia, sal volatile or salt of hartshorn,

used as a smelling salt and in baking in lieu of baking soda in some recipes. A
tablespoon or so of ammonium carbonate can be placed in the bottom of a jar and
capped with a porous, foam plug. Reacts with moisture to produce ammonia that kills
the insect. Slow acting, but works well on microleps and caddisflies; they remain pliable
for pinning. It is a good alternative to cyanide as it is considered non-toxic except as an
eye and skin irritant. It is smelly, however, and jars need to be periodically recharged.

GENERAL TIPS ON USING KILL JARS

• Adding some crumpled absorbent paper (such as toilet paper) to the jar will keep the
inside of the jar dry and will prevent specimens from damaging one another. Replace
the paper when it becomes moist or dirty.
•
• Keep delicate specimens in separate jars so that larger specimens will not damage
small delicate specimens. Keep Lepidoptera in a separate jar so their wing scales do
not soil other specimens.
•
• Do not leave a killing jar in direct sunlight; this will cause it to “sweat”, lose its killing
power faster, and moisten the specimens.
•
• Do not leave insects in a killing jar, especially cyanide jars, for more than a few
hours. Specimens will desiccate, become brittle, and will be difficult or impossible to
pin.