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When it was necessary to have two men for the pilot balloon
ascents, Mr. Calwagen got excellent assistance from ice-pilot Ness,
who, according to what he himself said, was only too glad to be
employed a little on such an occupation during the long hours in which
“Fram” lay idle, not giving him enough to do.
Altogether sixty-two pilot balloons were sent up between the 15th
of April and the 29th of May. It was possible to follow one of them
through glasses to a height of 10,500 meters. This, however, was only
possible because there was very little wind all the way up. Generally
the wind was so strong that the balloon was lost sight of at a much
lower height.
It will lead us too far into scientific spheres to describe all the
methods used in determining the weather conditions from weather-
charts and from observations which were made. I shall have to content
myself by just mentioning the main principles which must be taken into
consideration when choosing the starting day.
It is the general experience that the regions which have low air
pressure mostly have cloudy weather and rainfall, whilst places with
high air pressure have fine weather with a clear sky. The point was
therefore to avoid conditions where a depression was moving towards
the Pole.
In order to be pretty safe from bad weather it was necessary to
choose a high pressure condition. Further, the high pressure would
have to lie north of Spitzbergen so that the aeroplanes should not fly
out of good weather directly into bad on the way north. A high pressure
condition over the Pole would necessarily bring with it northeasterly
winds and cold weather in Spitzbergen. This northeasterly wind would
(at West Spitzbergen) be an off-shore wind and therefore would signify
clear weather. Along the north coast of Spitzbergen the weather would
be more doubtful, with a northeast wind which would cause the air to
rise up against the hills and form clouds. But these cloud-masses on
the north coast would very often only stretch out over a limited area
which the flyers could pass in a short time, preferably by flying over the
clouds.
One has the best guarantee for stable weather conditions when
the pilot balloons show that northeast winds are not only to be found
on the ground but also higher up. One knows then that the high
pressure condition around the Pole will reach high up in the
atmosphere and is not just a low formation which could be swept away
by the first attack of a storm center from elsewhere.
The first high pressure condition in May occurred on the 4th, just
when the aeroplanes were finished mounting. This favorable condition
did not last long. The low pressure over North Norway increased and
passed northeast (along the dotted line on the chart) by pushing the
polar high pressure aside towards Greenland. Before the final
preparations were finished on the 8th of May the low pressure had got
so near the Pole that it was not advisable to start.
A period of drizzly weather followed now when it was impossible to
do anything else but wait. The wind was mostly between west and
south, and the sky was overcast and we often had snow showers. Only
now and again it cleared for half a day, but never long enough that
there could be a question of starting. This state of affairs lasted until
the 18th of May, when a change took place. A heavy storm center,
which passed Björnöya, turned the wind easterly at Spitzbergen, and
behind the bad weather a high pressure region appeared which moved
from Labrador via Greenland towards the Pole. The wind was still too
strong, and it was not quite clear at Spitzbergen, but there were good
prospects that the next few days would bring good weather conditions
for the flight. The planes were therefore made ready to start at short
notice.
We had still to wait three days before the weather was as it ought
to be. The high pressure region had spread itself long ago over the
Arctic Sea, and the bad weather which passed Björnöya had moved to
North Siberia, but right up to the morning of the 21st we had dull
weather with snow now and again in King’s Bay. The reason was a
slight local depression which had remained persistently over the warm
current which the Gulf Stream sends along the west coast of
Spitzbergen. On the 21st there was, for the first time, sufficient easterly
wind to drive the snowy weather out to sea, so that from midday on we
had radiant sunshine and a cloudless sky.
At last the condition had arrived for which we had waited so long,
the first useful condition since the planes had been ready to start. It
had to be used, especially as the season was getting on towards the
end of May and the danger of fog was increasing each day.
So far we had not seen any fog at Spitzbergen and if one had not
had the knowledge about polar fogs which “Fram’s” observations,
1893–6, had given us, it would have been tempting enough to wait
longer. It was still pretty cold, -9° c. in King’s Bay on the 21st of May
and at the Pole one might risk calculating that the temperature would
be down to -15° c. Both for the planes and the crews it would have
been better and more comfortable to have had a more summery
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se contentent pas d’un mari. Les Inuits trouvent que les choses sont
fort bien arrangées ainsi : c’est ce que Moutou-Apou expliqua fort
innocemment à M. Eriksen, le pasteur norvégien qui tenta de
convertir sa tribu, mais n’y parvint point parce que le sorcier vendait
des charmes pour faire prendre beaucoup de poisson, tandis que lui,
cet Européen qui se moquait du monde, prétendait qu’il faut là-
dessus se borner à invoquer le Seigneur.
Comme tous les siens, Moutou-Apou avait deux morales : une
morale d’été et une morale d’hiver. En hiver, il convient de vivre tout
nu, au fond de larges caves creusées dans la neige, où les grosses
lampes à huile, taillées dans la pierre de savon, entretiennent une
chaleur presque excessive qui rend insupportable le poids des
vêtements de fourrure. Les deux sexes, dans ces caves, vivent
mêlés, mais chastement, sans se toucher, en frères et sœurs. Il est
recommandable de se remuer le moins possible, de manger le
moins possible, de dormir autant que possible, afin d’épargner les
provisions. En été, au contraire, la coutume veut qu’on reste au
grand air, ou bien dans des huttes faites d’ossements de baleines,
recouvertes de peau, et vêtu, car les nuits sont fraîches. Mais, le
poisson et le gibier étant abondants, il est licite et même obligatoire
de manger beaucoup — chaque jour quatre ou cinq livres de viande
— et de faire l’amour autant qu’on peut, dans l’intervalle des repas.
Toutefois, au cours de la saison d’hiver. Moutou-Apou, sans
doute à cause de sa jeunesse, avait peine à dormir autant que
l’exigeait l’usage. Alors, sur des os de cétacé ou bien l’ivoire des
défenses de morse, à l’aide d’un fin burin de silex il gravait de
nombreuses images. C’était l’histoire de ses chasses et de ses
pêches, des espèces d’idéogrammes où on le voyait portant sur son
dos le kayak de cuir qu’il dirigeait sur les eaux du Mackenzie ou
même de l’océan Arctique, — car la tribu allait parfois jusque-là dans
ses migrations, — capturant des phoques, tuant un ours. Ou bien
c’étaient les portraits, fort ressemblants, tracés avec un art ingénu,
de ces animaux ; ce qui paraît bien prouver qu’en effet il gardait dans
les veines le sang des vieux chasseurs de l’époque de la Madeleine,
qui nous ont laissé en France, dans les grottes où ils célébraient des
rites mystérieux, des preuves si émouvantes de leur talent de
peintres et de sculpteurs. Comme eux, Moutou-Apou n’aimait guère
figurer que des choses qui ont vie et qu’on peut tuer pour se nourrir.
Voilà pourquoi certains livres du pasteur norvégien, l’évangélique et
mal récompensé pasteur Eriksen, l’intéressèrent. Quelques-uns
étaient illustrés, les uns représentant des hommes et des femmes en
costumes bizarres, ou presque nus, — à l’époque de la morale
d’hiver, croyait-il, mais en réalité c’étaient les personnages de
l’Ancien et du Nouveau Testament — les autres habillés comme
monsieur le pasteur, et portant le même magnifique chapeau de
haute forme dont, même aux environs du pôle, celui-ci se coiffait, les
jours de cérémonie.
C’étaient là des hommes et des femmes en vie, mais on ne les
pouvait tuer pour se nourrir, et par conséquent moins attrayants, aux
yeux de Moutou-Apou, que les bêtes dont les effigies peuplaient un
autre des ouvrages de la bibliothèque de M. Eriksen. Plusieurs
semblaient d’une taille monstrueuse, d’autres affectaient des formes
bien étranges. Il ne faut pas s’en étonner : c’étaient les
reconstitutions de la faune antédiluvienne, telles qu’on les pouvait
contempler dans cette traduction anglaise de la Terre avant le
Déluge, de M. Louis Figuier, vulgarisateur scientifique un peu oublié
de nos jours, mais dont les honnêtes travaux ne sont pas sans
valeur. Dans l’esprit de Moutou-Apou, ces animaux devaient être
sûrement ceux qui se rencontraient dans le pays du missionnaire,
aussi communément que les ours blancs et les morses dans la
patrie des Inuits ; et cela lui fit une grande impression. Quel paradis
que celui où l’on pouvait chasser ces montagnes de chair, ces êtres
singuliers et gigantesques ! Il en rêvait dans la grande cave aux
parois de neige, il en gardait la figure dans sa mémoire.