Internship Report Hasan Syead

BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
Report on
Industrial Attachment
(From 1st January to 29th February 2020)
ENVOY TEXTILES LTD

Jamirdia, Bhaluka, Mymensingh
Submitted By
Name: Hasan Syead Onike
ID: 161-100-0-155
Supervising Teacher
Prof. Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr Siddique
Dean, Faculty of Textile Engineering
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technologygy
This Internship Report Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirement for the Degree of
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering in the Faculty of Textile Engineering of BGMEA University of
Fashion & Technology (BUFT).
Department of Textile Engineering (TE)
i
Department of Textile Engineering
Envoy Textiles Limited.
From 1st January 2020 to 29th February 2020

Submitted By
ID: 161-100-0-155
Project Supervisor:
Professor Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr Siddique
Dean, Faculty of Textile Engineering
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
Exam Committee:
Examiner 1(Supervisor): Prof. Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr. Siddique.............Signature:
Examiner 2(External Member)...........................................................Signature
Examiner 3(External Member).............................................................Signature
ii
DECLARATION OF INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Student of Textile Engineering (TE). Major in Fabric Manufacturing Engineering from

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT). Hereby I declare that, this
industrial internship report has been done in Envoy Textiles Limited at Jamirdia, Bhaluka,
Mymensingh under the supervision of Loknath Das, Deputy General Manager, Loom,
who has allowed me to work in his organization within a congenial atmosphere during the
industrial training period from 1st January 2020 to 29th February 2020
I also declare that neither this internship report nor any part of this internship
report has been submitted elsewhere for award of any degree.

ID: 161-100-0-155
Department: Textile Engineering
Batch: 161, TE-1
Signature…………………………
iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The time I spent in Envoy Textiles Ltd as an intern from January 2020 to February 2020
was a memorable one for me as it was rich in experience sharing and helped us to discover
our potentiality. My internship would not have been possible without the contribution and
collaboration of others.
I would like to extend thanks to Honorable Founder Chairman, Board of Trustees Mr.
Muzaffar U. Siddique, BUFT, for not only for his tremendous academic support, but
also for giving us so many wonderful opportunities and logistic supports to do this project.
Special thank goes to our honorable Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Vice Chancellor,
BUFT (Acting) And Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice Chancellor, BUFT,
who so generously inspired & contributed to do this type of research work presented in
this project proposal.
Special thanks go to our enthusiastic supervisor, Prof. Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr Siddique,
Dean, Faculty of Textile Engineering, BUFT, has an amazing experience and we thank
him wholeheartedly, not only for his tremendous academic support, but also for giving us
so many wonderful opportunities.
Similar, profound gratitude goes to Head of Department, MS Setara Begum, Asst.

Professor & Head of the Textile Engineering Department, BUFT, has a truly dedicated
mentor.
I would like to extend thanks to all person who contribute to do the work presented in this
project. Specially I have to mention the name of our Industrial Supervisor, Loknath Das,
Deputy General Manager, Loom, Envoy Textiles Limited.
I gratitude also goes to all the employees of Envoy Textiles Limited. For their sincere, I
would like to acknowledge that, I remain responsible for the inadequacies and errors,
which doubtlessly remain.
iv
Executive summary
By achieving practical knowledge, it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the

technical field. So, for any technical education especially in textile engineering, the
practical experience is the most important as well as the theoretical knowledge. For any
technical education, practical experience is almost equally necessary in association with
the theoretical knowledge.
Industrial training is the process where we explore our theoretical knowledge to practical
knowledge. In this process we can compare our theoretical knowledge to practical
experience. Which must need for our next upcoming life.
Through our study life it’s a great chance for us to combine the theoretical knowledge
with the practical knowledge in the “Industrial Attachment period”. In addition, the
knowledge we gathered from the industrial training reflects in the report of industrial
attachment note book.
So industrial training is the process where the trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge
with practical knowledge increasing his/ her ability of work, skill, performance and
attitude and so on. It also provides sufficient knowledge about production management,
productivity evaluation, work study & efficiency, industrial management, production
planning and control, production cost analysis, inventory management, utility,
maintenance and so on.
Envoy Textiles Ltd. is one of the largest eco- friendly denim textiles in Bangladesh. It was
established in 2008 with a focus on producing a consistent quality and offering a
diversified product range through continuous research and innovation. It also the first
company in the country that introduced the Rope Dyeing Technology.
I have prepared this report according to the BGMEA University of fashion and
technology’s management.
v
Table of Contents
Chapter Chapter Name Topic Name Page

No. No.
DECLARATION OF INDUSTRIAL III

TRAINING
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT IV
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY V
Chapter-1 COMPANY PROFILE 1-9

1.1 Introduction
1.2 Google view of Envoy Textiles
Ltd
1.3 Vision & Mission of the company
1.4 Factory Strength
1.5 Corporate Awards
1.6 Major Buyer of Envoy
1.7 Compliance
1.8 Company Profile of Envoy
Textiles Ltd
1.9 Company Layout
1.10 Departments of Envoy
Textiles Ltd
1.11 History of Envoy Group
Chapter-2 HUMAN RESOURCE 10-

MANAGEMENT
2.1 Functions of Human Resource 15
Department
2.1.1 Manpower planning
2.1.2 Job analysis and Job description
2.2 Manpower Organogram
2.3 Management System
2.2.1 Shifting
2.4 Duties & Responsibilities of
Different Post
2.4.1 Chief Executive Officer (CEO)
vi
2.4.2 General Manager
2.4.3 Deputy General Manager (DGM)

production
2.4.4 Senior Production Officer
2.4.5 Production Officer
2.4.6 Shift in charge
Chapter-3 CORPORATE SOCIAL 3.1 Introduction of CSR 15-

RESPONSIBILITIES 3.2 Summary of employee benefits 19
& Compliance 3.3 CSR activities of ETL
3.4 Compliance
3.5 Compliance Checklist of ETL
Chapter-4 RAW MATERIALS 4.1 Denim Yarns 20-

4.1.1 Common Yarn Sizes for 22
Denim
4.1.2 Yarn Spinning Systems
4.1.3 Specialty Yarns
4.1.3.1 Structured denim yarns
4.1.3.2 Elastic denim yarn
4.2 Sources of Denim Yarn
Chapter-5 BALL WARPING 5.1 Warping 23-

5.2 Warping objects 33
5.3 Important requirements of
Warping
5.5 Ball Warping
5.6 Standard operating procedure of
Ball Warping
5.7 Mechanism of Ball Warping
5.8 Types of Creels
vii
5.8.1 Travelling package creels
5.8.2 Magazine Creels
5.9 Description of ball warping
machine
5.10 Tension parameter of Ball
Warping
5.11 Name of the machine part
5.12 Some calculation of Ball
Warping
5.13 Which faults are shown in Ball
Warping
5.14 Lease set up for different count
5.15 Function of tension meter
5.16 Recone machine
Chapter-6 DYEING 6.1 Introduction 34-

6.2 Layout plan of Dyeing 44
6.3 Rope dyeing
6.4 Vat dyes
6.5 Sulphur Dyes
6.6 Indigo dye
6.7 Shades that are processed at
Envoy Textiles Ltd
6.8 SOP for dyeing
6.9 Description of Dyeing Machine
6.10 Dyeing process details
6.11 Chemicals used for Rope Dyeing
6.12 Which types of problem show in
the dyeing section
6.13 Description of lab instrument
6.13.1 Spectro-photometer
6.13.2 Weight balance
6.13.3 Metrohm
6.13.4 Baume meter
6.13.5 Light Box
dyeing
Chapter-7 LONG CHAIN BEAMER 7.1 Long Chain Beamer (LCB) 45-
(LCB) 7.2 Layout of Long Chain Beamer 50
7.3 Function of LCB
7.4 Standard operating procedure of
LCB
7.5 Purpose of LCB department
7.6 Description of machine in LCB
viii
section
7.7 Tension and speed parameter for
Griffin Machine as yarn count
7.8 Tension and speed parameter for
Morrison Machine as Yarn count
7.9 Name of the machine part &
function
7.10 Faults show in the LCB
Chapter-8 SIZING 8.1 Sizing 51-
8.2 Objectives of Sizing 60
8.3 Operational procedure of sizing
8.4 Layout of sizing area
8.5 Description of machine in sizing
section
8.5.1 Machine type-01
8.5.2 Machine type-02
8.6 Chemical of sizing section
8.7 Size ingredients and their function
8.8 Count wise refraction value,
viscosity and pick up%
8.9 Figure of viscometer & refraction
meter
8.10 Fault of sizing
8.11 Sizing Equation
8.12 Beam stoker machine
Chapter-9 WEAVING 9.1 Weaving 61-

9.2 Basic Weaving Mechanism 84
9.2.1 Shedding mechanism
9.2.2 Picking mechanism
9.2.3 Beat-up mechanism
9.3 Layout of weaving section
9.4 SOP of Loom Operation
9.5 Machine Specifications
9.5.1 Machine Type 01 (Denim 1)
9.5.2 Machine type 02 (Denim1)
9.5.3 Machine type 03 (Denim 1)
9.6 Warp tying machine
9.6.1 Todo warp tying machine
ix
parameters
9.6.2 Staubli Topmatic warp tying
machine parameters
9.7 Leno bobbin winder
9.8 Catch cord winder
9.9 Secondary mechanism
9.9.1 Take-up motion
9.9.2 Let-off motion
9.10 Design which is commonly
produced in ETL
9.11 Production preparatory task in
Weaving
9.12 Cam using for weaving design
9.13 SOP of Quality Control
9.14 Warp tying or knotting procedure
9.15 Knot passing procedure
9.16 Setting for CSV problem
removal
9.17 Production Calculation
9.18 CMPX Breaks per centi-million
picks
9.19 Selection of reed depends on the
total no. of ends
9.20 Some construction of Weave
with style number and buyer name
9.21 The name of weft yarn supplier
and origin
9.22 Reed count
9.23 Weaving faults, causes and
remedies
9.24 Lubrication type used in Loom
Chapter- FINISHING 10.1 Finishing 84-
10 10.2 Layout of finishing 98
10.3 Objects of Finishing
10.4 List of Finishing machine
available in ETL
10.5 Types of finishing process
10.6 Finishing chemical process
recipe
10.7 Description of various Finishing
Process
10.7.1 Singeing m/c
10.7.1.1 Singeing m/c specification
x
10.7.1.2 SOP for Singeing m/c
10.7.1.3 Singeing m/c faults
10.7.2 Wet finish m/c description
10.7.2.1 M/c specification
10.7.2.2 SOP for Morrison wet finish
10.7.2.3 Faults
10.7.3 De-sizing and finishing m/c
10.7.3.2 Kyoto m/c flow chart
10.7.4 Stenter m/c description
10.7.4.2 SOP for Stenter m/c
10.7.4.3 Function of Stenter m/c
10.7.4.5 Stenter m/c faults
10.7.5 Sanforizinf=g m/c description
10.7.5.2 M/c flow chart
10.7.5.3 Function
10.8 Some important terms for
finishing
10.8.1 Singeing Parameter
10.8.2 Sanforization
10.8.3 Fabric Skewness
10.8.4 Calendering
10.8.5 Mercerization
10.9 Common faults of finishing
process
Chapter- INSPECTION 11.1 Inspection 98-
11 11.2 Layout of inspection 106
11.4 Inspection Faults
11.5 Fabric Inspection System
11.5.1 4-Point system
11.6 Category of Fabrics after
Inspection
11.7 Department wise different defect
in fabric
11.7.1 Yarn defect
11.7.2 Dyeing defect
11.7.3 Sizing defect
11.7.4 Weaving defect
11.7.5 Finishing defect
11.8 Visual Fabric Faults
xi
Chapter- QUALITY 12.1 Quality assurance 106-
12 ASSURANCE(QA) 12.2 Laboratory 120
12.2.1 Types of Laboratory
12.2.2 Physical laboratory
12.2.3 Chemical laboratory
12.3 Different test method followed
by Envoy Textiles Ltd.
12.4 Some calculation used in LAB
12.5 Some important types of test and
their methods
12.6 Perspiration test (ISO method
105E04)
12.6.1 Solution preparation
12.7 Perspiration test (AATCC
method-15)
12.7.1 Solution preparation
12.8 PH Check(ISO-3701)
12.9 PH Check(AATCC-81)
12.10 Rubbing fastness test
12.11 Color fastness to wash
12.12 Wet Laboratory
12.13 clearance
Chapter- RESEARCH & 13.1 Process flow chart of R & D 121-
13 DEVELOPMENT(R&D) 13.2 R & D 126
13.2.1 Fabric analysis & development
13.2.2 During fabric analysis they
should check the following parameter
13.2.3 Formula for calculating warp
& weft count
13.2.4 Color or shade testing
13.3 Washing (R & D)
13.3.1 Washing section
13.3.1.1 Dry process
13.3.1.2 Wet process
13.3.1.3 Chemical used
13.3.2 Basic recipe for different
washing.
13.4 Sewing Section
13.4.1 Types of machine
&their amount
xii
Chapter- UTILITY FACILITIES14.1 Introduction 127-
14 14.2 Utility ensure 133
14.3 Electricity
14.4 Generator
14.5 Principle
14.5.1 Types of Generator
14.6 Boiler
14.6.1 Boiler Mountings
14.7 Advantages of using an
economizer
14.8 Air compressor
14.9 Humidifier
14.10 Chiller
Chapter- ETP 15.1 Introduction 133-
15 15.2 Layout of ETP 139
15.3 Types of ETP plant
15.4 Quality of dischargeable water
15.5 Processing sequence
15.6 Equipment for ETP laboratory
Chapter- STORE & INVENTORY 16.1 Store & inventory control 140-
16 CONTROL 16.2 Layout of fabric store 141
16.3 Scope of inventory control in
ETL
16.4 Inventory System for Raw
Material
16.5 Inventory System of Spare Parts
Chapter- CONCLUSION Conclusion 142

17
xiii
LIST OF FIGURES
No.of Name of figures No. of pages

figures
Fig 1.1: Front view of Envoy Textile Ltd. 1
Fig 1.2: Aerial View of Envoy Textile Ltd 2
Fig 1.9 Company Layout 6
Fig 2.2: Manpower Organogram 12
Fig 3.3.1 Gymnasium 16
Fig 3.3.2 Birthday celebration 16
Fig 3.3.3 Dormitory 17
Fig 3.3.4 Annual sports celebration 17
Fig 3.3.5 Ambulance 17
Fig 3.3.6 Provide free snacks 17
Figure3.5.1 Fire Fighting Training 18
Figure3.5.2 Emergency Lightning 18
Figure3.5.3 First Aid Box 18
Figure3.5.4 General Equipment 19
Figure3.5.5 Sings/label 19
Figure3.5.6 Emergency Exit 19
Figure3.5.7 ETP 19
xiv
Fig 5.1: Ball warping 23
Fig 5.4 Layout plan of Ball Warping 24
Fig 5.7 Front & Side view of Ball Warping Machin 25
Fig 5.8 creels 26
Fig 5.15 Recone machine 33
Fig 6.1 Dyeing 34
Fig 6.2 Layout plan of Dying 35
Fig 6.3 Rope dyeing 35
Fig 6.9 Morrison rope dyeing machine 39
Fig 6.13.1 Spectrophotometer 42
Fig 6.13.3 Metrohm 43
Fig 6.13.5 Light box 44
Fig 7.2 Layout of Long Chain Beamer (LCB) 46
Fig 7.5.1 Schematic diagram of long chain beamer 47
Fig 7.5.2 Griffin machine 48
Fig 7.5.3 Karl Mayer machine 48
Fig 8.4 Layout of SIZING 52
Fig 8.5.1 Morrison sizing machine 54
Fig 8.5.2 Ukil sizing machine 55
Fig 8.9.1 Viscometer 59
Fig 8.9.2 Refraction meter 59
Fig 8.12 Beam stoker machine 60
Fig 9.1 Woven cloth 62
xv
Fig 9.2.1 Shedding mechanism 62
Fig 9.2.2 Picking mechanism 63
Fig 9.2.3 Beat-up mechanism 64
Fig: 9.3 Layout of weaving section 64
Fig 9.5.1 Air-jet Loom 65
Fig 9.5.2 Rapier Loom 66
Fig 9.5.4 Picanol Omni Plus Summum 67
Fig 9.6 Warp tying machine 69
Fig 9.7 Leno Bobbin Winder 71
Fig 9.8 Catch Cord Winder 72
Fig 9.9.1 Fabric Take Up Mechanism 73
Fig 9.9.2 Let off Mechanism 73
Fig:9.12 Cam used in weaving 75
Fig 10.2 Layout of finishing section 85
Fig 10.8.1 Singeing 96
Fig:10.8.2 Sanforizing 96
Fig 11.1 Inspection m/c 98
Fig 11.2 Layout of finishing 99
Fig 11.3 Inspection machine 100
Fig 11.8.1 Visual Fabric Faults 104
xvi
Fig 12.2.2.1 Ozone tester 108
Fig 12.2.2.2 Yarn tester 108
Fig 12.2.2.3 Titan 5 108
Fig 12.2.2.4 Titan 2 108
Fig 12.2.2.5 Mesdan 108
Fig 12.2.2.6 Pilling tester 109
Fig 12.2.2.7 TPI & TM tester 109
Fig 12.10 Crockmeter 116
Fig 12.12.1 Washing machine 118
Fig 12.12.2 Dryer machine 118
Fig 12.13.1 Hunter lab(labscan xe) 120
Fig 12.13.2 New hunter lab(labscan xe) 120
Fig 13.4 Sewing section 126
Fig 14.6 Boiler 129
Fig 14.8 Air compressor 131
Fig 14.10 Chiller 132
Fig 15.1 ETP 133
Fig 15.2 Layout of ETP 134
Fig 15.7.1 Vacuum pup for filtration 137
Fig 15.7.2 Stirrer machine 138
Fig 15.7.3 Bod incubator 138
Fig 15.7.4 Spectrometer & Cod reactor 139
Fig 15.7.5 Oven 139
xvii
Fig 16.2 Layout of fabric store 140
xviii
CHAPTER: 1 COMPANY PROFILE
Fig 1.1: Front view of Envoy Textile Ltd.
1.1 Introduction
Textile engineering education at bachelor level is based on industrial ground. Theoretical
background is not sufficient so, industrial training is the most important part of study to
make a technologist technically sound. Industrial Attachment provides that opportunity to
gather practical knowledge for being a true Textile Engineer.
Through our study life it’s a great chance for us to combine the theoretical knowledge
with the practical knowledge in the “Industrial Attachment period”. In addition, the
knowledge we gathered from the industrial training reflects in the report of industrial
attachment note book.
So industrial training is the process where the trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge
with practical knowledge increasing his/ her ability of work, skill, performance and
attitude and so on.
Envoy Textiles Ltd., leading denim fabric producer in Bangladesh since 2005, started the
commercial production in early 2008. This industry is professionally managed and
technically sound organization located at Bhaluka, Mymensingh (60 km North of Dhaka
1
City).The plant is fully integrated with State of the Art technology and machinery from
USA, Japan, Korea, Switzerland, Italy, India& Belgium. Envoy Textiles Ltd. produces
indigo denim fabric with the best and most modern ROPE DYEING Technology. With
ever increasing acceptance of quality fabric and increase in demand the production
capacities were expanded at regular intervals. The target production capacity of Envoy
Textiles Ltd. is 20 million meter per year.
1.2 Google view of Envoy Textiles Limited
Fig 1.2: Aerial View of Envoy Textile Ltd.
1.3 Vision & Mission of the company
 To achieve a global dominance through

 Consistency in product supply.
 Continuous product innovation.
 Customer orientation and cost effectiveness.
 Decrease the percentage of wastage.
 Safe & hygienic working environment to workers.
 Customer satisfaction by all means.
2
1.4 Factory Strength
 Short Lead Time.
 Highly skilled manpower at low cost.
 Diversified Product Portfolio.
 High Standards of quality and service.
 Own power generation.
 State of the art Effluent Treatment Plant to safeguard the environment.
 Process & Technology improvements.
1.5 Corporate Awards

 LEED Certified Platinum, by United States Green Building Council
(USGBC), USA
 President’s Award for ‘Industrial Development’
 7 times winner of National Export Trophy by Bangladesh Government.
 National Environment Award by Honorable Prime Minister of Bangladesh
 3 times winner of National Award by Institute of Charter Secretaries of
Bangladesh (ICSB)
 Best Corporate Award by Institute of Cost & Management Accountants of
Bangladesh
 HSBC Bank Export Excellence Award
 Highest Corporate Tax Payer Award by National Board of Revenue.
 Carbon Performance Improvement Initiative (CPI2) Factory Award.
 Highest Regular Electric Bill Payer Award by Bangladesh Rural
Electrification Board
 LEED Green Factory Award by Bangladesh Garments Manufacturers and
Exporters Association (BGMEA)
3
1.6 Major Buyer of Envoy
1.7 COMPLIANCE
 Oeko-Tex Certified – Class1
 GOTS Certified (Global Organic Textile Standards)
 OE100 or OE Blended (Organic Exchange)

 ISO-9001:2008 Certified
 BSR Audit (Business for Social Responsibility) Certified
1.8 Company Profile of Envoy Textiles Ltd

Envoy Textiles Ltd was established in 2008 with a focus on producing a consistent
quality and offering a diversified product range through continuous research and
innovation.
4
Privat
Company status e
Owner Mr. Kutubuddin Ahmed
Year of established 2005
Started the commercial 2008
production
Factory address Envoy Textiles Ltd.
Jamirdia,Bhaluka,Mymensingh; Bangladesh
Phone: 0682-555037-40
Corporate Office Address Envoy Tower,5th -8th Floor
18/E Lake Circus Kalabagan
West Panthopath, Dhaka-1205 Bangladesh.
Phone: +88029102583-90
Web: www.envoytextiles.com
Type of factory Fabric manufacturing
Product Denim fabric
Annual production 50 million meters
Total area 48 acres
Total workforce 2752
International Certification  LEED platinum 2016
• Oeko-Tex Certified Class1

 GOTS Certified (Global Organic Textile
Standards)
 OE100 or OE Blended (Organic Exchange)

• ISO-9001:2015 Certified
 BSCI
5
1.9 Company Layout:
Fig 1.9: Company Layout
1.10 Departments of Envoy Textiles Ltd
 Chairman office
 Business Coordination
 Sample Development
 Yarn and Cotton
6
 Administration
 General Supports
 Hospitality
 Housekeeping
 Security
 Transportation.
 Commercial
 Customs Bond
 Export – Import
 Incentive
 Engineering
 Electrical (Loom and Preparatory)
 Electrical (Dyeing, Finishing and Utility)
 Mechanical (Process)
 Mechanical (Utility)
 Civil
 Finance
 Cost and Budget
 General Accounts
 Operational Accounts
 Sales
 Production
 Production Planning
 Ball Warping
 Dyeing
 Long Chain Beam
 Sizing
 Loom Operation
7
 Finishing
 Loom Maintenance
 Knit Winding
 Sales
 Project Management
 Compliance
 Fire and Safety
 Management Information System (MIS)
 Quality Assurance
 Inspection
 Laboratory
 Process audit
 Clearance
 Research and Development
 Sampling
 Washing
 Product Development
 Supply Chain
 Denim Store
 Spinning Store
 Procurement
 Spinning
 Production
 Quality Assurance
 Human Resource
 Information Technology
8
1.11 History of Envoy Group
Envoy Group was established in 1984. The group produces 2 million dz. from 14 garment
factories situated in and around Dhaka and employs more than 10,000 people. The group
is involved in various businesses. Group Activities are following-
The introduction of garments factory in 1984 marked the beginning of today's Apparel
Division, the largest and fastest growing division of Envoy Group. Starting from the
beginning, Envoy Group put highest emphasis on quality and credibility, which helped a
lot in earning buyer's confidence. Upholding a customer centered perspective, highly
experienced professionals of Envoy are working constantly to ensure best support to the
valuable clients. For regular buyers, dedicated lines of production and nominated
merchandisers are there to customize the service and ensure successful execution of
orders.
9
CHAPTER: 2
HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGEMENT
2.1 Functions of Human Resource Department:
2.1.1 Manpower Planning
It involves the planning for the future and finding out how many employees will be needed
in the future by the business and what types of skills manpower planning should they
possess.
It depends on the following factors
The number of people leaving the job
The projected growth in sales of the business
Technological changes
Productivity level of the workers
2.1.2 Job analysis and Job description
HR Department is also involved in designing the Job analysis and Job description for the
prospective vacancies. A job analysis is the process used to collect information about the
duties, responsibilities, necessary skills, outcomes, and work environment of a particular
job.
Job descriptions are written statements that describe the:
Duties & Responsibilities
Most important contributions and outcomes needed from a position, Required
qualifications of candidates, and
Reporting relationship and co-workers of a particular job.
Determining wages and salaries
HR Department is also involved in conducting market surveys and determining the
wages and salaries for different position in an organization. These decisions may be
taken in consultation with top management and the Finance department.
Recruitment and Selection
One of the most important jobs HR departments is to recruit the best people for the
organization. This is of crucial importance as the success of any organization depends on
the quality of its workforce. Details regarding the recruitment and selection procedure
can be found here.
10
Performance Appraisal
Once the employees are recruited, the HR Department has to review their performance on
a regular basis through proper performance appraisals.
Performance appraisal is the process of obtaining, analyzing and recording information
about the relative worth of an employee. The focus of the performance appraisal is
measuring and improving the actual performance of the employee and also the future
potential of the employee. Its aim is to measure what an employee does. On the basis of
performance appraisal the HR Department will set up an action plan for each employee.
If the employees need any training then he provided that.
Training and Development

HR department is constantly keeping a watch over the employees of the organization. In
order to improve the efficiency level of the employees they training have to undergo
regular trainings and development programmers. All trainings and development needs are
carried out by this department. Training might include on the job or off the job training.
Find more information on training here.
Employee welfare and motivation
Happy employees mean a healthy organization. HR Department conducts various
employee welfare activities which might include employees get together, annual staff
parties etc. HR department also reviews organizational policies and its impact on the
motivation of the employees.
Addressing employees grievances
HR department is the link between the workers and the management. Employees
grievances related work environment are usually entertained and resolved by the HR
Department
11
2.2 Manpower Organogram
Fig 2.2: Manpower Organogram
12
2.3 Management System
The company has skilled administration, management and marketing team guided by
proficient, dexterous &experienced leaders of offer right solution for the consumers with
the right eminence & with the shortest lead-time for the export market in Bangladesh.
The best use of continuous development of human resources by providing them
International standard equal opportunity is the keys for achieving comprehensive
competence in all level of the organizational hierarchy.
2.3.1 Shifting
There are three shifts in the industry. So, the shifts are changed at every 8 hours. Shift
Change/ for worker of security:
1. General shift 09:00 –18:00

2. A shift 06:00 –14:00
3. B shift 14:00-22:00
4. C shift 22:00 –06:00
2.4 Duties & Responsibilities of Different Post
2.4.1 Chief Executive Officer (CEO)

1. To deal with the buyer and merchandiser.
2. To set up price for the product.
3. To plan apply and control all administrative functions.
4. To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.
13
2.4.2 General Manager
1. To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.
2. To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production.
3. To supervise the personal working under him
4. To plan the sequence of production
5. To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.
6. To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production.
2.4.3 Deputy General Manager (DGM) production

1. Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
2. Check the sensitive parameters of different machines for smooth dyeing.
3. Check the different logbooks in different areas and report to management.
4. Check the plan to control the best output.
5. To trained and motive the subordinates how to improve the quality production.
6. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine and any
other works when required.
2.4.4 Senior Production Officer

1. Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.
2. Batch preparation and pH check. Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check
Write loading/unloading time from machine.
3. Program making, sample checking color measurement.
4. Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.
Any other works when required.
2.4.5 Production Officer

1. To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the previous shift for the
smooth running of the section.
2. To match production sample with target shade.
3. To match production sample lot sample matching next production.
4. To observe dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.
5. To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/GM for necessary action.
14
6. To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.
7. To sign the store requisition and delivery challenging the absence of PM
8. To execute the overall floor work.
9. To maintain loading/unloading paper.
2.4.6 Shift in charge

1. To follow the 7worker’s movement.
2. Should discuss with the production officer about what is happening
3. To maintain the production sequence.
4. To check the sample at certain time interval.
CHAPTER: 3 CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITIES

(CSR) & Compliance
3.1 Introduction
Corporate Social Responsibility is a management concept whereby companies integrate
social and environmental concerns in their business operations and interactions with
their stakeholders
.
The ETL’s worker welfare and Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) programmers
cover more than 50 activities, including medical reimbursement for workers and their
families. The workers get birthday and wedding gifts as well as gifts for their newborns.
Also, children of the workers get education scholarships and financial assistance for
weddings.
15
3.2 Summary of employee Benefits:
3.3 CSR Activities of ETL:
Fig3.3.1: GYM Fig 3.3.2: Birthday celebration
16
Fig 3.3.3.: Dormitory Fig3.3.4: Annual sports celebration
Fig 3.3.5: Ambulance Fig:3.3.6: Provide Free Snack
3.4 Compliance
SSAS (social accountability accreditation service) provides technical assistance &
verification to the business social compliance initiative (BSCI) as a means of promoting
workplace conditions in accordance with human rights, ILO convention & national labor
law.BSCIs participating a program of Foreign Trade Association of Europe, is designed
to improve working conditions for the suppliers of BSCIs participating member
companies.
3.5 Compliance Checklist of ETL

 Management Documents
 Emergency Exit
 Aisles
 Emergency lightning
 Fire extinguisher/hose reel/hydrant
17
 Emergency preparedness
 First aid kids
 Chemical storage area
 Sing/labeling
 General equipment/house keeping/electricity
 Lighting
 Machinery
 Waste water treatment
 Housekeeping/sanitation & hygiene toilets ,dining and kitchen facility
 Bathroom / toilet
Figure3.5.1: Fire Fighting Training
Figure3.5.2: Emergency Lightning Figure3.5.3: First Aid Box
18
Figure3.5.4: General Equipment Figure3.5.5:Sings/label
Figure3.5.6: Emergency Exit Figure3.5.7: ETP
19
CHAPTER 4: RAW MATERIALS
In ETL, to produce yarn, raw cotton is used. ETL uses various types of cotton
for denim fabric. Brazilian cotton, Australian cotton (white cotton), African
cotton etc. are used in ETL. Yarn from these cottons is used both as warp and
weft yarn.
4.1 Denim Yarns
This section has detailed description about the yarn that is usually used by Envoy Textiles
Ltd for manufacturing high quality denim fabrics. The spinning method of denim yarn is
also described shortly.
20
4.1.1Common Yarn Sizes for Denim
Warp yarns for bottom weight jeans typically range in size from Ne 4.0 to Ne 12.5/1.
Finer yarns are used for lighter weight chambray shirting fabrics and lighter weight jeans,
vests, dresses, and skirts. These yarns may range in count from Ne12.5 to Ne30.0.
4.1.2 Yarn Spinning Systems
Before the late1970s, all denim yarns were ring spun. Today, denim fabrics have different
combinations of ring and open-end yarns. The term ring/ring, opened / opened (OE/OE),
and ring/OE, it is referring to which yarn is in the warp and which yarn is in the filling,
respectively. For example, ring/OE indicates a ring-spun warp yarn and an open-end
filling yarn. Weaving a combination of ring-spun and open-end yarns can help to reduce
fabric costs while still maintaining some favorable ring-spun fabric characteristics.
4.1.3 Specialty Yarns
4.1.3.1 Structured Denim Yarns
Modern ring-spinning frames and open-end machines can be installed with devices that
can manufacture predetermined yarn effects. These effects can vary from slubs (thick
places) with different lengths, different spacing between slubs, or variations in the yarn
count. Using these devices, OE yarns can have a more ring-spun like appearance.
4.1.3.2 Elastic Denim Yarns
Core- spun yarns are produced conventionally on ring-spinning machines by introducing

a spandex filament at the back of the front drafting roll of the machine. The drafted cotton
fibers twist around the spandex core to produce an elastic ring-spun type yarn. There are
also open-end and air-jet spinning machines that have been adapted to produce core-spun
yarns. The core filament yarn (normally spandex) is inserted through the rotor shaft on
21
OE frame or the spindle of the air-jet frame, and the cotton fiber wraps around the spandex
filament during the process of spinning. They are somewhat similar to the ring core-spun
yarns in terms of yarn and fabric characteristics. Open-end and air-jet core-spun yarns
have fewer knot sand splices as compared to ring core-spun yarns.
4.2 Sources of Denim Yarn

Following spinning mills are the main sources of denim yarn of
Envoy Textiles Ltd.
Square Spinning mill Salek spinning mill

Loyal spinning mill Malek Spinning mill
Gulshan spinning mill Arif Spinning mill
Rana spinning mill Avani Spinning mill
Regent spinning mill United Spinning mill
Mahmud cotton mill Quetta Spinning mill
Etco spinning mill Siidique Sons Spinning mill
CHAPTER: 5 BALL WARPING
22
Fig 5.1: BALL WARPING SECTION
5.1 Warping: Warping is the process of transferring multiple yarns from individual yarn
packages into a single package or beam assembly.
5.2 Objects: To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that
they can be collect on a single beam (ball) as a continuous rope of yarns which can be
used for dyeing process.
5.3 Important requirements of Warping:
1.The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the
time of withdrawl from the supply package.
2. Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
3. The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic
properties.
4. Predetermined length should be observed.
5. Production rate should be high as possible.
6. The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
5.4 Layout plan of Ball Warping
23
Fig 5.4: Layout plan of Ball Warping
5.5 Ball Warping: In ball warping 250 to 400 yarn ends are pulled from the creel. The
yarns then pass through a comb-like device (sometimes called a hack or reed), which keeps
each warp yarn separate and parallel to its neighboring ends. At intervals of every 500 or
750meter, a lease string is placed across the sheet of warp yarns to aid yarn separation for
the re-beaming operation, which will occur later. The yarns then go through a funnel
shaped device called a trumpet or condenser, which collapses and condenses the sheet of
yarn into rope form. This device is located at the base of the warper head and traverses
back and forth, guiding the newly formed rope of yarn onto a log. The rope must be wound
at a constant tension to keep the yarns from tangling
5.6 Standard operating procedure of Ball warping:
 Setup program according to plan.
 Received yarn from the store according to program
 Put the machine power switch on present of electrical person
 Make the count wise parameter setting on the m/c, Viz tension, speed, lease, ends.
 Then clean the machine carefully
 Creel loading by the yarn
 Do the reed denting in
 Complete the yarn passage from creel to head stock trumpet via tension stand &
24
guide roller.Load the ball on the head stock
 Put the Safety guard on place
 Firstly run the machine with slow speed, and then slowly increase the m/c speed.
 Run the machine high speed
 Manual tension check
 Cut the ball after required program length is completed.
 After finished 12 balls, 1 program will be completed &the production data should
be filled up in the relevant production sheet.
5.7 Mechanism of Ball Warping
In ball warping 250 to 400 yarn ends are pulled from the creel. The yarns then pass through
a comb like device (reed), which keeps each warp yarn separate and parallel to its
neighboring ends. At intervals of every 1000 or 2000 yards, a lease string is placed across
the sheet of warp yarns to aid yarn operation. The yarns then go through funnel shaped
device called a trumpet or condenser, which collapses and condenses the sheet of yarn into
rope form. The rope is wound onto a long cylinder called a log on a machine called as a
ball warper. Indigo dyeing will take place at rope form.
Fig 5.7: Front & Side view of Ball Warping Machine .
25
5.8 Types of Creels
Fig 5.8: Creels

5.8.1 Traveling Package Creels
These are V-shaped creels with the actively running yarn packages on the outside of the
V and the full yarn packages placed on the inside of the V. When the running
packages are depleted, the yarn spindles on the creel are rotated so that the empty
packages move to the inside of the Vcreel for replenishment. The full packages move to
the outside of the creel.
The new yarn ends have to be pulled forward and threaded properly in the machine
before running the next warp. The empty package positions are then
replaced with new full packages while the warper is running. This eliminates lost time in
creeling up new yarn packages.
5.8.2 Magazine Creels
These are straight-line creels with enough spindles so that each end-running has a reserve
yarn package placed beside of it. The tail end of the running
package is tied to the beginning end of the reserve package. Once the running package is
depleted, they transfer over to the reserve package and the warper continues to run. This
is a random method of creeling yarn packages compared to block creeling normally used
on traveling package creels.
26
ETL Magazine creel information:
 76 creel stand are divided into two side=38/38
 1 creel stand contain 6 cone.
 Total cone capacity=456
 38 creel stand cone are divided into two part.
1st part contain=1-17 creel stand cone
2nd part contain =18-38 creel stand cone
 Fully automatic yarn breakage sensor is used for every creel stand of every
cone.
 Lease are given for every 750m passed of rope winding.
 In ETL 293,391,420,414,401,251 etc ends/rope is used.
5.9 Description of ball warping machine:

Section-1:
M/c Brand Country M/c Creel Stop

no name Of type capacity motion Speed
Origin
Electrical
1 GRIFFIN USA Automatic 456 Sensor 300
Mpm
Drop
2 GRIFFIN USA Manual 456 wire 300
Mpm
Drop
3 GRIFFIN USA Manual 456 wire 300
Mpm
Electrical
4 MORRISON USA Automatic 528 Sensor 300
Mpm
27
Section-2:
M/c Country M/c Creel Stop Speed

No Brand Of type capacity motion (mpm)
name Origin
Karl Automatic Electrical

1 Mayer China tension 456 sensor 300
Karl Automatic Electrical 300

2 Mayer China tension 456 sensor


5 Karl Automatic Electrical 300

Mayer China tension 456 sensor
Section 3: (Knit winding)
M/c Brand Country M/c Creel Stop Speed

No name Of type Capacity motion (mpm)
Origin
1 Karl China Automatic 416 Electric 300
Mayer tension sensor
2 Karl China Automatic 416 Electric 300
Mayer tenaion sensor
28
5.10 Tension Parameter of Ball Warping
Count Tension Ball force Speed
(Full-Empty) For OE For Slub
6/1 Ne, Jog 87% 160-320 350mpm 330mpm
7/1 Ne Front 82%
Run 87%
9/1 Ne, Jog 87% 140-300 350mpm 330mpm
10/1 Ne Front 72%
Run 77%
12/1 Ne, Jog 67% 120-280 350mpm 330mpm
16/1 Ne, Front 62%
20/1 Ne Run 67%
Manual Tension Parameter

Count Tension Ball force(Full Speed
empty)
6/1 Ne, 7/1 Ne 60-70gm 160-320 330mpm
9/1 Ne, 10/1 Ne 60-65gm 140-300 300mpm
12/1 Ne, 16/1 50+-55gm 120-280 300mpm
Ne, 20/1 Ne
5.11 Name of the machine part:

a) Creel
1. Cone holder
2.Guide
3.Tension device
4.pole
29
5. Auto stop device
6. Signal light
7. Yarn separator(comb)
8. Spindle
b) Vacuum chamber
c) Reed
d) Head stroke
e) Blower
f) Trumpet
5.12 Some Calculation of Ball Warping

 Count=9OE
 Length=44000m
 Total length=33000m
 Total ends=4440
 No of set =3
 Set/Rope=12
 Set length=11000
 Bag weight=50 kg
 No of cone per bag=18
Solution:
1) No of Creel=Set length*No of rope/Cone length
=1100
=9 creel
2) No of Bag=Total creel*Ends per rope/No of creel per bag

=9*370/18
=185 bag
3) Yarn weight=Total bag*Bag weight

=185*50
4) No of end/rope= (total end/no of rope)
30
=4440/12
5.13 Which faults are shown in Ball warping:

1. Weak place
2. Weak splice
3. Untwist
4. Snarling
5. Tail end entanglement
6. Slub opening
7. Damage cone
8. Loss ball
9. Tight ball
10. Count mixing
11. Wrong sticker attach with ball
31
5.14 Lease set up for different count:
count First 2nd Running End

lease lease lease previous End
lease lease
OE yarn 10m 50m 500m 20m 10m
Slub yarn 10m 50m 750m 20m 10m
Ring slub 10m 50m 750m 20m 10m
Ring yarn 10m 50m 750m 20m 10m
Comb yarn 10m 50m 500m 20m 10m
5.15 Function of tension meter:

This is an important instrument in ball warping section. In every shift the tension of yarn
checked by tension meter because in dyeing lapper cut create for low tension ball. The tension
of yarn is varying count to count. The tension range of tension meter is 50-60 CN.
5.16 Re-cone machine

Creel capacity: 400
Speed : 70-100 mpm
Brand name : Wo Fung Textile machinery co.
Origin : China
Auto stop motion: Electrical sensor
32
Tension: 96-100 % (start 100% & end 96%)
Used: For high quality yarn such as 26 comb, 30 comb, 20 ring
Fig5.15: Re-cone machine
33
CHAPTER: 6 DYEING
Fig 6.1: Dyeing
6.1 Introduction:
We know that in denim fabric dyed (indigo) yarn is used in warp direction and generally
undyed yarn is used in weft direction. So for the warp yarn dyeing process is used. Dyeing
process in manufacturing is the most crucial in the production sequence. Once the dyeing in
denim manufacturing was only indigo dyes based due to its blue appearance. Up to 70’s denim
dyeing indigo based. Then sulpher dyes specially the sulpher black were introduced. At
present sulpher dues are used the pure black shade of denim or the different shade effect before
or after indigo dyeing. Today the dyeing of denim in not limited to black and blue rather it is
now vastly diversified in different shade which is produced using reactive and other classes
of dyes through their popularity and production are not comparable and black shade based
denim.
34
6.2 Layout plan of Dying
Fig 6.2:Layout plan of Dying

6.3 Rope Dyeing
In textile, dyeing is the process of coloring any textile fiber, yarn or fabric. There are many
types of dyes which are used to color the textile fiber. Different types of textile fiber used
for textile fibers. Such as reactive dye, vat dye, Sulphur dye etc. are used for cotton fiber and
for polyester fiber disperse dyes are used.
Fig 6.3 : Rope Dyeing
Most denim is yarn dyed. The warp yarns are dyed with indigo dye and the filling yarns left
undyed. There are a number of modifications or alternatives in the dyeing process that are
routinely used to change the overall look or performance of the fabric. With the advent of
denim garment washing techniques, the consistencies of the indigo dyeing process and its
modifications have become crucially important in determining the quality and performance
of indigo denim products.
In denim dyeing two types of dyes are used to color the cotton yarns. They are-
 Indigo Dye, which is the type of vat dyes and
35
 DBD Black, DBA Black, Red, Orange, Yellow, Sulphol Black etc. which is the type
of Sulphur dyes.
6.4 Vat dyes:

Vat dyes are a class of dyes that are classified as such because of the method by which they
are applied. Vat dyeing is a process that refers to dyeing that takes place in a bucket or vat.
Cotton, wool, leather and other fibers can be all dyed with vat dyes. The original vat dye is
indigo, once obtained from plants but now produced synthetically.
Vat dyes characteristically require a reducing agent to solubilize them. Sodium hydrosulphite
Na2S2O4 is the universally accepted reducing agent in vat dyeing which converts the dye to
its "leuco" form that is soluble. Once attached to the fabric, the leuco dye is then oxidized to
the insoluble state which is intensely colored.
Vat dyes have high color fastness and poor rubbing fastness.
6.5 Sulphur Dyes
Sulphur dyes are one of the most used dyes for producing bright black, black and brown shade
on cellulosic fiber products. The chemistry of sulphur dyes dyeing is near similar to vat dyes
dyeing. Sulphur dyes are so called because sulphur dyes contain di-sulphide linkage in their
chemical structure. Sulphur dyes dyeing is carried out in alkaline condition.
Sulphur dye is water insoluble dye. It needs solubilization with reducing agent. Oxidation is
needed to final color development.
6.6 Indigo dye:
Indigo dye is an organic compound with a distinctive blue color (see indigo). Historically,
indigo was a natural dye extracted from plants, and this process was important economically
because blue dyes were once rare. Nearly all indigo dye produced today — several thousand
tons each year — is synthetic. It is the blue of blue jeans.
36
6.7 Shades that are processed at Envoy Textiles Ltd
1. Indigo: Only indigo dye is used to dye the warp yarn according to different shades (light,
medium, dark).
2. Black: Only Sulphur dye is used to dye the warp yarn according to different shades (light,
medium, dark).
3. Topping: Both indigo and Sulphur dye is used to dye the warp yarn. In this shade indigo
dye is used first to dye the bottom part of the warp yarn and then Sulphur dye is used to
dye the upper part of the warp yarn.
4. Bottoming: Both indigo and Sulphur dye is used to dye the warp yarn. In this shade
Sulphur dye is used first to dye the bottom part of the warp yarn and then indigo dye is
used to dye the upper part of the warp yarn.
37
6.8 SOP for dying:
 Color preparation
 Batch preparation
 Ball creeling
 M/c running
 Mercerization /Bottoming >Steaming
 Rinse wash
 Dyeing>Steaming
 Rinse wash
 Softening
 Drying
 Coiler
 Drying can
 Delivery to LCB
6.9 Description of machine:

Section 1:
M/c Brand Origin Creel Speed No. of Dry

No Name Capacity Cylinder
1 MORRISON USA 32 25-28 m/min 32
4 SMARTEC China 40 25-28 m/min 42
Section 2:
M/c Brand Origin Creel Speed No. of Dry
No Name Capacity Cylinder
2 SMARTEC China 40 25-28m/min 36

3 SMARTEC China 16 25-28m/min 36
38
Fig 6.9: Morrison rope dyeing machine
6.10 Dyeing process details:

Color and Bath Preparation
At first the color and the bath is prepared according to required shade. Then it transfers to the
machine.
Ball Creeling
Required count (7-20 Ne) of yarn and amount of ball are set to the creel. The rope of yarns
are tied with the leader rope. When the machine starts it goes with the leader rope to the
machine.
Mercerization
Then the ropes move to the mercerization tank through some guide rollers. The mercerization
tank contains the solution of caustic soda, wetting agent and sequestering agent.
Rinse Wash
After mercerization, the rope of yarns is passed through the washing tank. Here extra
chemicals which is present on the surface of the yarns are removed.
Dyeing
39
According to the required shade dyeing tank is used. In dyeing tank, dyes, wetting agent,
sequestering agent hydro, reducing agent, caustic soda is added.
Rinse Wash
After dyeing, the rope of dyed yarns is passed through the washing tank to remove extra dyes
and chemicals from the surface of the yarns.
Softening
After wash the rope of dyed yarn is passed through the softener tank. The softener tank
contains softening agent acid and water.
Drying
The rope of dyed yarns comes from softener tank to the dryer roller. Dryer roller is used for
drying the yarn and also controls the moisture of the yarn.
Coiler
The rope of dyed and dried yarns is passed to the coiler. Coiler helps to guide the dyed yarns
so that the yarns can be stored in the drying can easily.
Drying Can
Drying cans are set according to the number of ball set in the creel. The dyed yarns are stored
in the drying can and send it to the LCB section.
6.11 Chemicals Used for Rope Dyeing
1.Caustic Soda
It is used to control the pH of the mercerized and dye solution.
2. Wetting Agent
It is used to reduce the surface tension of water. Merceral OK, Cottoclarin EH, Primasol NF,
Kieralon Extra, Floranit 4028, Permagen NFS, Ruowet RDXetc. are used as wetting agents in
ETL.
3. Sequestering Agent
It is used to reduce the hardness of water. Sequion 48/98 used s sequestering agent.
4. Hydro
Hydro is used to solute the indigo dye. Indigo dye oxidizes when it comes in contact of air.
5. Reducing Agent
40
It is used to soluble the sulphur dye. Sulphur dye also oxidizes when it comes in contact of
air.
6. Softening Agent
It is used to smooth the yarn surface. Maing Belfasin GT used in ETL
7. Acid
It is used to control the pH of the softening tank. Optical buffer SP acid is used as acid.
6.12 Which type of problem show in the dyeing section:

 Lapper
 Dancer roller down
 Broken the coiler chain
 Count mixing problem in the creel
 Coiler lapper
 Pressure mistake
 broken the bearing
 Color line jam
 Mechanical problem
 Rope migration problem
 Steam setting problem
41
6.13 Description of lab instrument:
6.13.1 Spectrophotometer: We measure the concentration of black or indigo in
Fig. 6.13.1: Spectrophotometer
the box solution. But here only black gpl measured. It is very essential because shade dark or
light depend on GPL (gram per liter) which is measured by this instrument. Here used
concentration factor is 720 and wave length 695 nm respect to black.
Brand Name : HACH LANG

Model: LICO 500
Origin: Germany
Use: Used to Check GPL for Black dye bath
Process:
A definite amount of bath solution taken in a biker which contain 1L water and stirring and
first the instrument check digit 0 but standard water and definite solution(5ml) set up in the
spectrophotometer and show the result on the monitor by GPL.
6.13.2 Weight balance:
By using this machine, we can measure the chemical when need making any solution.
42
6.13.3 Metrohm:
This is most important instrument in dyeing. which measure the ph of the black and indigo
and also measure GPL (gram per liter) of indigo and hydro in bath solution.
Brand Name: Metrohm

Model: 877 Titrino Plus
Origin: Switzerland
Use: Test GPL of Indigo & Hydro& measure

Redox Potential for Reducing agent.
Brand Name: Metrohm
Model: 794 Basic Titrino
Origin: Switzerland
Use: Used to check PH Fig 6.13.3: Metrohm
Process:
1. At first taken 32.94 g potassium ferocyanide in volume of 1Lwater and then place exchange
unit of m/c
2. Making 1Lsolution by using caustic 1 g and setamol 15g.
3. And then 50 ml that solution place in the m/c and passes nitrogen gas in solution at 3-10
min. so co2 and o2 remove from solution. Taken 1L dye from due box and 5ml of dye push in
50 ml of that solution.
4. And then program set the m/c, after 4-5 min result show on the monitor.
( A PH electrode used when needed measuring concentration of dye box)
6.13.4 Baume meter:
By using this meter, we can measure the concentration of caustic in the mercerizing box.
43
Process: At first taken mercerizing solution in a biker of volume of 500 ml (or any volume)
. And then Baume meter enter the solution. After observation the top of the meter, the number
of meter which floating on the solution that number indicate the concentration of caustic in
solution.
6.13.5 Light box:
This is another most important instrument in every dyeing lab. Which is used for shade
matching.
Fig 6.13.5: Light Box
Here there are four type of light t such as D 65 (artificial day light), TL84 (Narrow and
phosphor florescent lamp), UV (ultraviolet black light) which is used to detect the presence
of OBA (optical brightening agent, it is used for knit composite factory)
But we always used D65 because specified for most application where there is a maintain
color consistence and quality conforming highly to the CIE specification for accurate color
matching.
44
CHAPTER: 7 LONG CHAIN BEAMER (LCB)
7.1 Long Chain Beamer (LCB)

The rope dyeing of warp yarn in denim production, the next operation is the Long Chain
Beamer (LCB). When the rope has been dyed and dried in the rope dyeing, it is taken in large
cans in coiler section. In rope dyeing range, if the machine has a capacity 24 ropes, then there
will be 24 separate coilers which deliver 24 ropes in separate cans. These cans are transferred
to the Long Chain Beaming area. The basic purpose of long chain beamer is to open the rope
into a sheet form of yarn and wind onto a sizing beam which in turn transferred to the sizing
machine.
In Long Chain Beamer, the yarn alignment in the dyed rope is change from a rope form to a
sheet form. In the Long Chain Beamer the rope pull from the can by moving them upward to
a guiding device. The guiding device is mounted above the can, probably in the ceiling. The
upward movement of the rope allows the ropes to entangle before nearing the beamer head
and allow the rope to shake loose form from the rest of the rope in the can.
7.2 Layout of Long Chain Beamer
45
Fig 7.2: Layout of Long Chain Beamer
7.3 Function of LCB:

1. Individualization of dyed rope with the help of reed
2. To make quality full beam of warp
3. To make the yarn suitable for sizing process
7.4 Standard Operating Procedure of LCB:
 Receive program from dyeing section
 Put the power switch
 Make the count wise parameter on the m/c, viz, tension, speed, lease, ends
46
 Set up the load can under accumulator
 Complete the yarn passage from rope can to head stock via accumulator, tension
stand& dancer
 Do the reed denting
 Set up reed with
 Load empty beam on the machine
 Put the safety guard on place
 Firstly run the machine at slow speed and then slowly increase the m/c speed.
 After finished 12 beams, 1 program will be complete & the production data should be
filled up in the relevant production sheet
7.5 Purpose of LCB Department
 The alignment of dyed rope converted to a uniform sheet form.
 This is the opposite action of ball warping.
 Prepare the yarn for sizing
Fig 7.5.1: Schematic diagram of long chain beamer
47
Fig 7.5.2: Griffin machine Fig 7.5.3: Karl Mayer machine
7.6 Description of machine in LCB section:
Section-1:
M/c Brand Origin
No Name
1,4-10 GRIFFIN USA
2,3 MORRISION USA
11,12 KARL MAYER CHINA
Section2:
M/c Brand Origin
No Name
1-12 KARL MAYER CHINA
Knit winding:
M/c Brand Origin
No Name
1-6 KARL MAYER CHINA
48
7.7 Tension and Speed for Griffin Machine as Yarn Count
Count (Ne) Tension(gm/end) Speed(m/min)
6 80-85 180-200
7 75-80 200
9 & 10 68-73 200-230
12 60-65 200-230
16 50-55 160-180
20 45-50 150-160
7.8 Tension and Speed for MORRISON Machine as Yarn Count

Count(Ne) Tension(gm/end) Speed(m/min)
6 33-38 160-180
7 30-35 200
9 & 10 23-28 200-250
12 20-25 200-250
16 17-22 160-200
20 15-20 150-170
7.9 Name of the machine part & function:

Accumulator:
It is used the reverse and forward movement of the rope as per required when the yarn
breakage.
Sensor:
It is used when the rope breaks or winding with each other or ending rope in can then it stop
the machine automatically.
Tension stand:
It is used to maintain the tension level of the yarn.
Biter pulley:
This pulley all time bit the rope as a result the ropes are converted into yarn sheet.
49
Dancer pulley:
If the tension remains in the yarn after using tension stand then dancer pulley will maintain
that yarn tension.
Stomach:
This device as like a chain which rotate contract of the yarn as a result the yarn remain a
tension and easily entered in the reed.
Reed:
The separation of yarn one by one by using reed.
Head stock:
The empty beam feed in the head stock. When complete the required length on the beam, then
full beam is replaced by the empty beam.
Pedal: Generally the operator runs the machines by depressing a foot pedal. As long as the
foot pedal is depressed, the machines continue to run and whenever the foot pedal is released,
the machine stop
7.10 Faults show in the LCB:

 Weak yarn
 Weak splice
 Rope crossing
 Lepper cut
 Ball formation
 Miss end
 Sticky
 Extra ends
 Slub opening
50
CHAPTER: 8 SIZING
8.1 Sizing
The process of applying a protective adhesive coating upon the yarn surface is called sizing.
This is the most important operation to attain maximum weaving efficiency specially for
blended and filament yarns.
8.2 Objectives of Sizing
1. To improve the weave ability of warp yarn.
2. To increase the tensile or breaking strength for cellulose yarn.
3. To maintain good quality fabric.
4. To reduce hairiness, weakness of textile materials.
5. To remove electrolytic formation for synthetic or blended yarn.
6. To increase elasticity.
8.3 Operational procedure of sizing :

 Receive beam from the LCB section according to plane.
 Set up the program according to plane.
 Put the machine power switch on present of electrical person
 Make the count wise parameter on the m/c, viz, tension, speed, temperature,
pressure etc.
 Creel loading by the beam.
51
 Then knotting the yarn with ledger and passes through the specific line up to
head stock.
 To perform tapping, leasing, & denting by proper way.
 Set up weavers beam in head stock
 Put the Safety guard on place.
 On the controlled button.
 The sized yarn of the weavers beam masking by tape.
 On the beam control button
 Firstly run the machine with slow speed, and then slowly increase the m/c
speed.
 To set the tension of all zone of the machine and then machine run slowly.
 On the beam pressure switch
 Then the machine run with desired speed.
 After completed target length, the full beam replaced by the empty beam.
 Then the sized beam will wait for the weaving.

8.4 Layout of Sizing Area
Figure 8.4: Layout of Sizing Area
52
8.5 Description of machine in sizing section:
8.5.1 Machine type-01:

Brand name: Morrison
No of machine: 01
Country: USA
Speed: 55-65 mpm
Capacity: 16 beam
Heat setting:
Size box-1: (80-89)0 c
Size box-2: (80-89)0 c
Drying zone:
Zone -1: 1150-1350
Zone -2: 1150-1350
Zone -3: 1100-1300
Zone -4: 1050-1250
53
Figure 8.5.1: Morrison Sizing Machine
Tension:
Creel tension : 21-35 g/e
Lease tension: 43-75 g/e
Beam tension: 48-85 g/e
Moisture: 5-6%
8.5.2 Machine type-02:

Brand name: Ukil
Origin: Korea
Speed: 35- 70 mpm
54
Capacity: 16
Heat setting:
Size box-1: (80-89)0 c at pressure 30
psi
Size box-1: (80-89)0 c at pressure 30
psi
Fig 8.5.2: Ukil sizing machine
Drying zone:
Zone -1: 1100-1350
55
Zone -2: 1100-1350
Zone -3: 900-1200
Zone -4: 1050-1300
Zone -5: 1000-1250
Tension:
Creel tension : 27-32g/e
Lease tension: 40-60 g/e
Beam tension: 50-70g/e
Beam tapper tension: 45-65 g/e
Moisture: 5.5% (standard)
8.6 Chemical of sizing section:

1. Starch
Size tex-5, Kollo tex-5 , Kollo tex-750 ,Topicca
2. Binder
Tem size
3. Softener
Wax
8.7 Size ingredients and their function:
Adhesive:
Generally, starch such as Size tex-5, Kollo tex-5, Kollo tex-750, Quick solan SPR.
Used for:
To improve strength
To increase smoothness
To increase elasticity and stiffness
Reduce extension percentage
Impart adhesion
56
Lubricant or softener:
Such as wax
Used for:
To make the yarn soft and slippery
To smoothen the yarn
To reduce stiffness
Reduce flexibility and friction
Hygroscopic agent:
Calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, glycerin etc.
Used for:
To moisture the yarn
To prevent excessive drying of yarn
Antiseptic or anti-mildew agent:

Carboxylic acid, salicylic acid, Zncl2, phenol etc.
Used for:
To prevent mildew formation.
To preserve size material for a long time.
To help to store the sized yarn.
To protect yarn from bacteria or fungus.
Weighting agent:
China clay, sodium sulphate, French chalk etc.
Used for:
To increase the weight of yarn during finishing.
Wetting agent:
57
Used for:
To increase size exhaust
To obtain a uniform distribution of the sizing solution
Antifoaming agent:
Used for:
To prevent foam formation.
8.8 Count wise refraction value, viscosity & pick up%:
Count Refraction value Viscosity Pick up%
6 %
7 1%
9 1% 21 – 26 s
8 – 11 %
10 1%
12 1%
16 2% 27 – 31 s
20 2%
58
8.9 Figure of Viscometer & Refraction meter
Fig 8.9.1: Viscometer Fig 8.9.2: Refraction Meter
8.10 Fault of sizing:
1 Loose yarn
2 Tight yarn
3 Beam stain
4 Slack yarn
5 Ball formation
6 Miss yarn
7 Cross yarn
8 Bunch
9 Loose site of beam
8.11 Sizing Equation

Size Pick % = ×100%
Sized Yarn Count = Count of Unsized Yarn×
59
8.12 Beam stoker machine:
No. of machine: 9
Model: WJK-90
Storage capacity: 32 beam
Power: 7.5 kw
Total capacity: 13.5 tone
Overall dimensions: 13427 X 3000 X 5680 mm
Fig 8.12: Beam stoker machine
60
CHAPTER: 9 WEAVING
9.1 Weaving
Weaving is a process of interlacement of two sets of threads namely the warp and weft threads
in lengthwise and crosswise respectively to form a fabric. The Weaving loom introduces
machine settings like warp and weft tension, speed, fabric design, ends per inch, pick per inch
and many other loom settings to achieve the denim fabric property like width, twill design
and weight of fabric in Oz/yds.
61
Fig 9.1: Woven cloth
9.2 Basic Weaving Mechanism
9.2.1 Shedding mechanism
The process of separating the warp yarn into two layers by raising the heald to form an open
area between two sets of warps and known as shed.
Fig 9.2.1: Shedding mechanism
62
9.2.2 Picking mechanism
The picking mechanism passes weft thread from one selvedge of the fabric to the other
through the shed by means of a shuttle, a projectile, a rapier, a needle, an air-jet or a water-
jet. The inserted weft thread is known as pick.
Fig 9.2.2: Picking mechanism
9.2.3 Beat-up mechanism

The beat-up mechanism beats or pushes the newly inserted length of weft thread (pick)
into the already woven fabric at a point known as “fell of the cloth”. These three
mechanisms namely shedding, picking and then beat-up are done in sequence.
63
Fig 9.2.3: Beat-up mechanism
9.3 Layout of Weaving Section
Figure 9.3: Layout of Weaving Section

9.4 SOP of Loom Operation
 Sized beam(Weavers beam) receiving from sizing
 Beam mount on loom
 Brushing
 Knotting
64
 Knot pass
 Loom machine setting
 First meter fabric check(i.e. GSM, EPI, PPI Width, weft yarn & quality)
 Bulk production
 Doffing
 Send to finishing
9.5.1 Machine Type 1 (Denim 1)
Name of the machine : Air jet loom
Brand name : Tsudakoma
Model no. : ZAX Professional 9100
Manufacturer name : Tsudakoma Corporation; Japan
Machine speed :Average 700 rpm (900 maximum)
Reed width : 190 cm
Weft insertion color : 2
Selvedge type : Full cross leno
Total no of machine : 112
Pressure : Compressor in to main pipe-7.0 bar,
In M/c - 6.5 bar, actual set in to machine-6 bar
Figure 9.5.1: Air-jet Loom
65
9.5.2 Machine type 2 (Denim -1)
Name of the machine : Rapier loom

Number of machine : 19
Brand name : Picanol NV
Model no. : Picanol Optimax-4-R
Manufacturer mane : Belgium
Machine speed : Average rpm 550-600 ( maximum 700)
Reed width : 175 cm
Selvedge type : Half-cross leno
Fig 9.5.2: Rapier Loom

9.5.3 Machine type 3 ( Denim 1)
Brand name : Air jet
Model:Picanol Omni 800 Plus
Manufacturer name : Belgium
Machine speed : 1000( maximum)
Reed width : 190 cm
Total no of machine : 1
66
Pressure: Compressor in to main pipe-7.0 bar,
In M/c 6.5 bar, actual set in to machine-6 bar.
9.5.4 Machine type no.4( Denim 2)
Name of the machine : Air jet loom

No. of machine :142 (64 loom -220cm & 78 loom-190 cm)
Brand name : Picanol Omni Plus Summum
Model no. : Omni Plus Summum-2-p
Machine speed :Average 800-950 rpm (maximum 1000 rpm)
Reed width : 190 cm(78 loom) & 220 cm (64 loom)
Weft insertion color : 4 & 2
Figure 9.5.4: Picanol Omni Plus Summum
9.5.5 Machine type no.5: (Denim2)
Name of the machine : Rapier loom

Number of machine : 40
67
Brand name : Picanol NV
Model no. : Picanol GTmax-4-R
Machine speed : Average rpm 500-510 ( maximum 525)
Reed width : 190 cm
Selvedge type : Half-cross leno
9.5.6 Machine type no.6(Denim 3)
Name of the machine: Air jet

Manufacturer: Toyota Tsusho Corporation
Brand Name: Toyota
Manufacturer name: Japan
Machine speed: Average rpm 380-400(Maximum 420)
Reed space: 75 inches
Total No. of machine: 40
9.5.7 Machine type no.7: (Denim 3)

Machine name : Rapier loom
Brand name : Picanol
Model no: Optimax-I
Origin: Belgium
Total machine: 20
68
9.6 Warp tying machine
Type 1:
Machine Name: Warp tying machine
No. of machine: 02
Brand name: Topmatic
Manufacture: STAUBLI
Origin: Switzerland
Type 2:
Name of the machine: Warp-tying machine
Brand name: TODO
Manufacture: TODO Seisakusto Ltd.
Origin: Japan
Fig 9.6: Warp tying machine
69
9.6.1 Todo warp tying machine parameters:
Yarn count RPM Needle Count

7 300 70,75
9 300 22
10 250-300 65
12 300 22
16 250 50
20 250 50
30 200 45,50
9.6.2 Staubli Topmatic (Warp tying machine parameter):

7 350-400 28,32
8 320 25
9 350-400 25
10 300-350 25
12 300-350 22,25
16 300-350 18,20
20 285 18
30 285 16
9.7 Leno bobbin winder

Machine Name: Leno Bobbin Winder
Brand Name: HARUTZ
70
Manufacturer: Izumi International co
Origin: Japan
No of Machine: 02
Fig 9.7: Leno Bobbin Winder
9.8 Catch cord winder

Name of machine: Catch Cord Winder
Brand Name: BRANDT
Manufacturer: F B BRANDT
Origin: Germany
No of Machine: 01
71
Fig 9.8: Catch Cord Winder
9.9 Secondary Mechanisms

These mechanisms are next in importance to the primary mechanisms. If weaving is to
be continuous, these mechanisms are essential. So, they are called the secondary‟
mechanisms.
They are: a. Take-up motion b. Let-off motion
9.9.1 Take-up motion

The take-up motion withdraws the cloth from the weaving area at a constant rate so as
to give the required pick-spacing (in picks/inch or picks/cm) and then winds it on to a
cloth roller.
72
Fig 9.9.1: Fabric Take Up Mechanism
9.9.2 Let-off motion

The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at constant
tension by unwinding it from the weaver’s beam. The secondary motions are carried out
simultaneously.
Fig 9.9.2: Let off Mechanism
73
9.10 Design which is commonly produced in ETL
 Twill design (2/1 & 3/1 Right hand twill and Left hand twill)
 Broken twill (3/1)
 Satin design (4/1 Satin z)
 Dobby Design
 3/1 Dobby
 1/1 Plain Design
9.11 Production Preparatory task in Weaving:
 Get Production Plan from Planning Manager.
 Review the production plan according to loom assignments, sized warp and weft
availability and no. of days to weave the fabric
 Review loom settings according to article code like Reed availability, pick gear
combination, tension settings and other important set up to run the looms according to
required quality.
 Prepare accessories of sized warp in-case for draw-in pattern.
 Check knotting group personnel and knotting machines and accessories availability.
 Prepare manpower availability in running the planned looms
74
9.12 Cam using for weaving design:
Fig 9.12 cam using for weave design

9.13 SOP (Quality Control)
 PPI analysis
 EPI analysis
 Design analyses
 Fabric GSM
 Fabric appearance
 Color matching
 Newly running fabric (Style) analysis
 Grey shade matching
 Slub appearance
 Twill angle matching
 Width measurement
 PPI checking in running loom
 Newly run loom details
75
 Fabric swatch information details
 Fabric swatch collection
 Dobby fabric analysis
 Skew & bow test report CSV checking in grey fabric
 Warp crossing report
9.14 Warp tying or Knotting procedure:
 Mount new weavers beam
 Cut extra length of warp which remain on lomm
 Taping on new weavers beam, and clamp the end on stand, cut extra warp length.
 Warp in new weavers beam, is clamped into two separate point in frame.
 Comb he new warp for individual warp selection by tying m/c.
 Brush the warp remain on m/c by hand, then comb and place it over new warp and
clamping is done.
 Change needle count of warp tying machine according to yarn count and place the
m/c.
 Knotting action start
 Then knot
9.15 Knot passing procedure:

 Remove tample, dropper sensor off, on the machine and pass warp up to dropper
 Loose warp and pass through dropper by hand beating
 Then pass warp up to heald eye, pressing "Linked" on screen
 Loose warp & pass by hand through heald eye
 Pass through reed by using "Linked"
 Set tample
 Start machine for a while
 Loom setting
 Bulk production start
9.16 CSV (Setting):

 Frame height 83mm
 0 degree adjustment
76
 Dropper height 3
 Back rest 40mm
 Extra rest 40 mm
 Extra sub nozzle 2 pcs
 Filling length extra 4
 Crossing 290 degree
 Lever height 100mm
 Stretch nozzle use must
 Tension reduced
 Selvedge maximum
9.17 Production Calculation
Let,
Machine rpm =750
PPI= 49
Efficiency =92%
We know,
Production / shift = (RPM / PPI) *Efficiency
= (750 /49 /39.37) * 60 * 8 * 92%
= 171.69 m
9.18 CMPX: Breaks(x) per centi-million picks:
To determine the CMPX, we can evaluate the production efficiency of loom.

Warp CMPX:
Warp CMPX=(Total warp breaks*100000)/
Total picks
= (Total warp
breaks*100000)/PPI*39.37*Fabric length
Example: Warp CMPX=
(6*100000)/(100.5*58*39.37)
= 2.614
Similarly Weft CMPX:
Weft CMPX=(Total weft breaks*100000)
/Totalpicks(PPI*39.37*Fabric length in m)
77
9.19 Selection of reed depends on the total no. of ends:
EPI Reed Count
57 748DM
60 60/2” or 40/2”
63 620DM or 31.5/2”
66 650DM or 44/2”
69 46/2”
71 925DM
76 748DM
80 53/2”
88 44/2”
90 60/2”
94 925DM or 748DM
100 50/2” or 948DM
106 70/2”
120 120/2”
123 82/2”
105 70/2”
78
9.20 Some construction of weave in ETL:
Bayer Style Construction
Uniqlo 55644 (12in+12ecru) X(300L40d)/66x45
Cencosud 42197 12oeX150L70D)/71x48
Woodbridg
e RE-35 16oeX16oe/71x43
Re-
KIABI 142SB 16oeX16oe X16L40d/71x43
Ostin Ltd 420173 16comb X150L70D/71x52
Levis 541042 20RX 150L70D/110×64
BFAL–
Al-Fesani 83 16Rx 8rsl ×150L40D/100x92
Mohamma BFMT– 12rsx
dia 10,11 (12L40Dslblk+300L40D/95x95
MTG–
Mithela 05,06 (20oe+16oe) 300L70DX/122x60
V.F Asia M-96 (7OE+9OE+12oe) X300D/66x55
Regency 3828 (7OE+10oe) X (9OSL+8OE/66x45
79
Levis 3408 (7RSL+9oe) X (9RSL+9OE)/63x44
Texweave 34267 16oe X 300D/88x64
V.F Asia 3012 (7SL+9RSL) X(9SL+9R)/66x48
Al-fashion 16 comb x 150L40D/94x60
Day 3105 20 comb x 150D/92x64

apparel
Lucky 3843 (16RSL+16R) X12PSL/84x64
Azad BF-AZ- 16 comb x 150L70D/100x60

fashion
Primordial SL-08 12SL+12oe) X16OE)/71x44
AKM SL-125 (16RSL+16OE) X (16OE/76x54
RSL oe) RSL

AJ B/F AJ- (10 +10 X(9 +600d)/71x55
corporation 01
ZARA 324188 (9RSL+9OE) X 16L40D/64x50
80
9.21 The name of weft yarn supplier and origin:
Count Supplier Origin
7OE Badsha &AAyarn &Nahar

9OE Badsha &AAyarn
10OE Badsha Bangladesh
12OE Badsha &AAyarn&Gulshan
16OE Badsha &Gulshan
8RSL AT&T
9RSL AT&T Bangladesh
10RSL AT&T
12RSL AT&T &Square
10PSL Arif Bangladesh

12PSL AT &T
9OSL Badsha &AAyarn Bangladesh
9SL Badsha &AAyarn Bangladesh
150D Hangzhou
Zhejiang
Kader Bangladesh
300D Zhejiang
450D Zhejiang Chaina
Hangzhou
600D Hangzhou
81
10L40D AT&T Bangladesh
16L40D AT&T Bangladesh
16L70D AT&T &NRG Bangladesh
150L40Dwhite Welspun Spen

150L40DBlack Shaoxing Boram Chaina
150L70D White Hangzhou
300L70D Welspun Spen
9.22 Reed count:

1. Stock port count: No of dent per 2"
2. Metric count: Mainly no of dent per meter
Available reed counts in Loom 1:
Air jet(Tsudakoma):
33, 47, 44, 31, 38, 37, 82, 58, 64, 68, 50, 53, 70, 60, 96, 61, 46, 32.75, 40
Rapier:
925DM, 650 DM, 40, 70, 905DM, 984 DM, 620DM, 640DM
9.23 Weaving Faults, Causes and Remedies
Sl. No. Faults Descriptions Causes Remedies

1. Double Pick 2 Picks • Double End During
Interlaced in 1 Winding
Shed • Cutting Problem Review Faults
• Wrong Air Pressure
2. Double Ends Double Strands Miss Drawn Ends Counter check
draw in
82
3. Miss Pick Pick not • Wrong Pick Check pic
properly • Low Air Supply finding and air
inserted supply
4. Starting Mark Mark on fabric Loom not properly set This cannot be
width up avoided but can
be controlled
5. Snarling Selvedge • Excess air pressure Check main
Curling • Low filling tension nozzle pressure
and PFT finger
value
6. Miss Ends Straight line • Bad Sizing Re knotting and
visible in warp • Low strength proper sizing
direction • Loose or tight yarn required
7. Reed Mark Oil spot or dent Damaged reed Change Reed
spot
8. Filling Stop Pressure FD1 failed to reach FD2 Re Setup the
fluctuation machine
9. Temple Abrasion on Improper temple rolls Set temple rolls
fabric setting accordingly
9.24 Lubrication type used in Loom 1:

Grese type EP-2: (Monthly)
Greasing point:
Cutter 1
Take up roller 4
Batcher roller 4
Cam lever 6
Main motor 1
Timing motor 1
Clutch 1
Grease type EP0(Day basis):
83
Back rest 8
Edging rod 1
Edging baulk 1
Leno box 6
Oil( Yearly):
Cam box 320
Crank shaft box 100
Let off gear 680
Hydraulic pump 25
AC Servo motor 100
CHAPTER: 10 FINISHING
10.1 Finishing
Finishing of grey denim fabric normally carried out after weaving. It takes an important
role in fabric properties, appearance, softness and residual fabric shrinkage. The
finishing of denim fabric is carried out for several purposes. Finishing of denim fabric
can be varied according to the specific requirement of customer.
10.2 Layout of Finishing:

84
Fig 10.2: Layout of finishing
10.3 Objects of Finishing

 To improve the appearance of the fabric, that is making it more attractive or
lustrous by operations like calendaring.
 To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, stiffening etc.
 To increase weight of the cloth
 To improve wearing qualities of the cloth by making it shrink resistant, crease
resistant, or free from pills and soiling.
 To make garments hold their shape and enable them to be worn without ironing.
 To set the texture of certain fabrics and make others dimensionally stable.
 To produce stronger and more durable fabrics
10.4 List of Finishing Machine available in ETL:
Denim: 01
Total Number of Finishing Machine: 08
85
Machine Name Brand Name Origin
Singeing Machine Red Flag China
Stenter Machinr Haris india
Stenter Machine Has Turkey
Finishing Machine Morrison USA
Finishing Machine Kyota Japan
Heat Set Machine Pentek Italy
Ozone Machine Jenolegia Spain
Brushing Machine Mario Crosla Spain
Denim 02:
Total number of machine 06
Machine Name Brand Name Origin
Singeing Machine Osthoff Germany
Stenter Machine Sheen Tech China
86
Mercerize Machine Smartec China
Finishing Machine Monforts Germany
Finishing Machine Red Flag China
Sanforizing Machine Morrison USA
10.5 Types of Finishing Process
 Mercerize
 Chemical Desizing
 Wet Finishing
Mercerize
It is the process by which natural twist are opened by the help of concentrated alkali under
conditions. It is a treatment which makes the cellulose start to swell at a certain alkali
concentration.
Advantages of Mercerization
Improves dye up take up to 40%
Permanent luster is obtained
Improves tensile strength
Dimensional stability
Dead cotton coverage
87
Less pilling effect
Chemicals used in Mercerizing:
Caustic soda (16,18,20 Be)
Mercerol Qwxl (30 kg)
Opticid acid (50 kg)
Chemical Desizing
It is the process by which sized materials are removed from the yarn. It also removes the
dust & dirt from the fabric surface.
Chemicals & their amount for Chemical desized process:
Bactasol (4 kg)
NK. Copper (5 kg)
Wet Finishing:
This process is normally used to make the fabric surface smooth and also removes
protruding fibers from the fabric surface.
Chemicals & their amount for wet process:
Permasoft
Acetic acid
88
10.6 Finishing chemical process recepie:
1. Normal/ Wet process
 Permasoft 2120 –30g/l
 Kieralon EH – 2g/l
2. Water desize
 Kieralon EH–2g/l
 NK Copper L707B– 5g/l
3. Hot wash
 NK Copper L707B – 5g/l
 Kieralon Extra –2g/l
4. Desize
 Bactasol HPA –4g/l
 Kieralon Extra -4g/l
 Permasoft 2120 –30g/l
 NK Copper L707B – 5g/l
5. Mercerize
 Caustic – As requred
 Mercerol Qwxl – 5g/l
 Opticid SP –As required
6. Sizing chemical
89
 M–Size T–20 75g/l
 Tamsize S–200 20g/l
10.7 Description of Various Finishing Process:
10.7.1 Singeing m/c

10.7.1.1 Singeing m/c Specification
 M/c name: Red flag
 Nominal width:2200
 Capacity:1.5kw
 Air pressure:0.3Mpa
 Volt of power:380v
 Mfg no:2019021503
 Origin: China
10.7.1.2 SOP for Singeing m/c:

Grey fabric loaded in j.box
Brushing unit
Singeing unit
Brushing unit-2
Steamer
Tension controller
Singed fabric loaded in finial j box
Folder/batcher
10.7.1.3 Singing m/c faults:

 Fold formation
90
 Unsinged fabric
 Burn fabric
 Spark
 Neps problem
 Shrink problem
10.7.2 Wet finish m/c description:
10.7.2.1 M/c specification:

 Brand name: Morrison
 Model: M80sf
 Serial: T-342
 Origin: USA
 Manufactured date:2006
10.7.2.2 SOP for Morrison wet finish:

Gray fabric loaded in the j box
Brushing unit
Singeing unit
Wash box 1,2
Softening box
Squeezer
Tension controller
Skew device
Dry cylinder
Moisture controller
Rubber belt (shrinking controller)
91
Palmer unit(calendaring)
Folder
10.7.2.3 Faults:
1. Wrinkle mark
2. Pick problem
3. Crease mark
4. Water drop mark
5. Belt mark
6. Shrinkage mark
7. Oil mark
10.7.3 De-sizing and finishing m/c

10.7.3.1 M/c Specification:
 Company : Kyoto co. Ltd

 Origin: japan
 Serial:10081
 M. year:2009
 Normal width:2200m
 Capacity:1.5kw
 Air pressure:0.3Mpa
 Power supply:380v
10.7.3.2 Kyoto m/c flow chart:

Grey fabric loaded in the j box
Guider
Brushing unit
Burner / singeing unit
Chemical box
92
Squeeze roller
Chain belt
Wash box(1-5)
Squeezing
Skew device
Dryer
Foldering
Guide roller
Rubber belt
Palmer unit
Folder
10.7.4 Stenter m/c description:

 Brand: Harish
 M/c no:1633-9-p
 Type: GLX-IN
 M/c model: Uniroll-SP2000-09
 M/c serial no:090205
 Voltage:380V
 Frequency:50Hz
 Origin: India
10.7.4.2 SOP for stenter m/c:

Grey fabric loaded in the j box
Guider
Chemical dosing
93
Squeezer
Skew device
Knife pressure setting
Over feed roller
Selvedge controller
Chain rail
Heat setting chamber
Cooling roller
Tension controller
Coated fabric loaded in final j box
Foldering/batcher
10.7.4.3 Function of stenter m/c:

 Width of the fabric control
 Fabric moisture ability control
 GSM of the fabric control
 Shrinkage property control
10.7.4.5 Stenter m/c faults:

 Chain belt pin problem
 Padder denser problem
 Stitch damage
 Crease mark
 Width variation
 Oil spot
 Sensor problem
10.7.5 Sanforizing m/c description

94
 Brand : Morrison
 Model: 3750
 Origin: USA
 S.N:T-407
 Year : 2017
10.7.5.2 M/c flow chart:
Folder roller/batcher
Fabric loaded in j box
Guide roller
Steam unit
Dryer
Chain rail
Rubber belt
Palmer unit
Cooling unit folder/batcher
10.7.5.3 Function:
 Anti shrinkage finish

 Fabric length and width fixed control
 Dimentional alternation of warp and weft yarn.
95
10.8 Some Important Terms for finishing:
10.8.1 Singeing
It burns the port rooting and hairy fibers form the fabric surface.
Singeing Parameter
 Fabric speed (m/min)

 Flame intensity (mbar)
 Fabric moisture content (%)
 Singeing positions
 Burner fabric distance (mm) Fig 10.8.1: Singeing
10.8.2 Sanforization
Sanforization is a treatment applied to fabric to reduce cloth shrinkage after
washing. During the sanforizing process, the fibers of the cotton fabric are stretched
both in length and in width so that cloth that is washed and dried will not shrink
much.
Fig 10.8.2: Sanforizing
96
10.8.3 Fabric Skewness
Woven fabrics are constructed with lengthwise and crosswise yarns interlaced at right
angles. Skewness in woven fabric is a condition wherethe warp and weft yarns, although
straig ht, are not at right angles to each other. Woven fabric skewness and its measurement
Skewness creates difficulties during tailoring, sewing, and the process of three-dimensional
forming. Garments made from skewed fabric may behave differently on each part of the
body and, as a result, cause the fabric to lose its shape. The problem can occur in the
warping, weaving, and finishing processes. The main cause at any step of the finishing
process is the variation in running speed across the width of the fabric.
10.8.4 Calendaring:
Calendaring is a finishing process used on cloth where fabric is folded in half and passed
under rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on fabrics such as
more to produce its watered effect and also on cambric and some types of sateen’s.
In preparation for calendaring, the fabric is folded lengthwise with the front side, or face,
inside, and stitched together along the edges. The fabric can be folded together at full width;
however this is not done as often as it is more difficult. The fabric is then run through rollers
that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous. High temperatures
and pressure are used as well. Fabrics that go through the calendaring process feel thin,
glossy and papery.
10.8.5 Mercerization:
It is the process by which natural twist/convolutions are open by the help of concentrated
alkali under tension conditions. It is a treatment which makes the cellulose start to swell at a
certain alkali concentration.
Advantages of Mercerization:
 improves dye uptake up to 40%
 permanent luster is obtained
 improves tensile strength
 dimensional stability
 dead cotton coverage
 less pilling effect
97
The advantages of mercerization are considerable. The increase in the dye uptake capacity
results in deep shades and expensive dyes savings can be achieved. Furthermore as a rule,
the color fastness and uniform appearance of goods are also improved.
10.9 Common Faults of Finishing Process:

Some common faults of finishing process are given below:
 Crease mark
 Unsinged
 Width variation
 Finishing m/c stop
 Waviness
 Finishing oil spot
 Burn selvedge
 Back staining
 Low stretch
 Low shrinkage
 Return fabric for refinish
 Chemical spot
CHAPTER: 11 INSPECTION
98
Fig 11.1: Inspection
11.1 Inspection
Inspection can be defined as the visual examination of raw materials (such as fabric, buttons,
zippers, sewing threads, trims etc.), partially finished components of the garments and
completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications or requirement as
well as measuring the garments to check if they meet the required measurements.
11.2 Layout of Inspection:
Fig11.2: Layout of Inspection

Name of m/c Brand Origin Speed No. of m/c
Inspection Yayao Shun Long China 20 – 25 rpm Total Quantity
Inspection Tarkey Turkey 25 – 30 rpm 22
99
Fig 11.3: Inspection m/c
Name of m/c Brand Origin Speed No. of m/c

Packaging Penguin India 25 – 30 rpm 03
11.4 Inspection Faults
Yarn Defects Finishing Defects

Code Defects Code Defects
101 Coarser Warp 501 Crease Mark
102 Coarser Weft 502 Upsized
103 Finer Warp 503 Width Variation
104 Finer Weft 504 Machine Stop
105 Oily Warp 505 Stain
106 Oily Weft 506 Hole
107 Slub 507 Sleeve Mark
108 Contamination 508 E.H Mark
109 Thick / Thin 509 Wave
Dyeing Defects Weaving Defects
201 Shade Variation 401 Broken Pick
202 Stain 402 Double Pick
100
203 Steep Mark 403 Miss Pick
204 SSV 404 Lashing Pick
205 Dyeing Patta 405 Starting Mark
Sizing Defects 406 Reed Mark
301 Loose 407 Knot
302 Tight 408 Snarl
303 Beam Stain 409 Smash
304 Size Spot 410 Bad Selvedge
305 Bad Selvedge 411 Floating End
306 Less Width 412 Double End
307 Slack End 413 Wrong Drawing
11.5 Fabric Inspection System

Inspection of fabric is performed by fabric inspection machine. There are number of
system available to inspect the fabric.
There are as follows:
4 - Point system
10 - Point system
78- Point system

Only 4 - point system is approved by American Apparel Manufacturer
Association (AAMA) and American Association of Quality control (AAQC)
for Denim Fabric Inspection. This is why this system is widely used for fabric
inspection.
11.5.1 4 – Point System
The four points system assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and
significance of the defect. It’s a widely recognized methods frequently used in Textiles
Industry. It’s a technique issued by the American society for testing and materials with
reference to the designation ASTMD430-93.
101
Sl. Fault Length Points
No.
1. 1– 3 Inch 1
2. 3 – 6 Inch 2
3. 6 – 9 Inch 3
4. 9 – 12 Inch 4
5. 12-36 Inch 4
If a defect is observed faults are classified and scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4
according to their size and significance. Each defect should be counted as a separate defect
even if the nature is the same and based on the points allocated to each defect, total points
should be calculated .No more than 4 points can be assigned for any single defect. No linear
yard or meter can contain more than 4 points, regardless of the number of defect within that
yard or meter .If the acceptance criteria are 40 points / 100 yrd , then this roll is acceptable.
Calculation:
Points/100 square yards =
11.6 Category of Fabrics after Inspection
Category Max. points/100 square yards Title

1 15 Super Elite
2 20 Elite Plus
102
3 24 Elite
4 30 Sound Surplus
5 >30 Shady (Style Wise)
6 >30 Mixed
7 Cut Pieces Cut Pieces
8 Off Pieces CAT – 8
11.7 Department wise different defect in fabric
11.7.1 Yarn Defect:

 Courser warp
 Courser weft
 Finer warp
 Finer weft
 Oily warp
 Oily weft
 Slub
 Contamination
 Thick Thin
11.7.2 Dyeing Defect:

 Shade variation
 Satin
 Strip mark
 Dyeing patta
 S .S. V
11.7.3 Sizing Defect:
 Loose
 Tight
 Beam stain
 Size spot
 Less width
 Slack end
11.7.4 Weaving Defect:
 Broken pick
 Double pick
 Miss pick
 Lashing pick
 Starting mark
 Reed mark
103
 Snarl
 Knot
 Smash
 Bad selvedge
 Floating end
11.7.5 Finishing Defect:

 Crease mark
 M/C stop
 Width variation
 Hole
 Unsigned
 Weave
 Stain
 Sleeve mark
11.8 Visual Fabric Faults
Fig 11.8.1: Visual Fabric Faults

104
11.8.2: Visual Fabric Faults
105
CHAPTER 12:
Quality Assurances (QA)
12.1 Quality Assurance (QA)
Quality assurance (QA) is a way of preventing mistakes and defects in

manufactured products and avoiding problems when delivering solutions or
services to customers; which ISO 9000 defines as "part of quality management
focused on providing confidence that quality requirements will be fulfilled.
12.2 Laboratory
A laboratory is a facility that provides controlled conditions in which scientific or
technological research, experiments and measurement may be performed.
12.2.1Types of Laboratories
There are two types of laboratory under Quality Assurance (QA). Such as follows:
106
 Physical Laboratory
 Chemical Laboratory
12.2.2 Physical Laboratory
Table 12.1: Testing machine, their test and Origin are given
below:
Serial Test Name Machine Name Origin

No.
01 Yarn Tester Auto wrap 10 makers India
02 TPI & TM Tester Mesdan Italy

03 Yarn Winding Auto Winder
04 Strength Tester Mesdan Italy
05 Fabric Strength Test Titan 2 England

06 Fabric Strength Test Titan 5 England
07 Tear Test ElmaTear England
08 Fastness to Ozone gas Ozone Tester UK

09 Pilling & Abrasion Test Pilling Abrasion Tester England
10 Stiffness Test Stiffness Tester USA

11 Shows Temp & Humidity Hygrometer Japan
12 Stretch, Growth & Recovery Test Stretch & Growth Tester ETL, BD
13 Determine GSM Digital balance India
107
Fig 12.2.2.1: Ozone tester Fig12.2.2.2: Yarn tester
Fig12.2.2.3: Titan 5 Fig12.2.2.4: Titan 2 Fig 12.2.2.5:

Mesdan
108
Fig 12.2.2.6: Pilling tester Fig 12.2.2.7: TPI & TM tester
12.2.3 Chemical Laboratory

In this laboratory Chemical properties of fabric are tested by the help of
different testing machine.
Table 12.2: Testing machines of chemical lab
Serial No. Machine Name

01 Rubbing crocking machine
02 Multi-meter
 pH meter (Fabric)
 Conductivity (Water)
03 Viscometer
04 Orbital Shaker
05 Oven
06 Oven with Air circulation
07 Water tester (Molecular Water)
08 Fume hood machine
09 Light fastness Tester
12.3 Different test method followed by ENVOY TEXTILED Ltd.

109
No. Test Name Method(ISO) Method(AATCC,
ASTM)
1 Dimensional ISO-6330 AATCC-135
stability
2 Skew ISO-16322 AATCC-179
3 Color fastness to ISO-105 AATCC-61
wash
4 Color fastness to ISO-105*12 AATCC-8
rubbing
5 Color fastness to ISO 105 E04 AATCC 15
perspiration
6 Color fastness to ISO 105 E01 AATCC 107
water
7 Color fastness to ISO 105 B02 AATCC-16
Light
8 Tensile Strength ISO 13934-2-1 ASTM D5034
grab
9 Tensile Strength ISO 13934 2-2 ASTM D5035
Stripe
10 Seam slippage ISO 13936 1&2 ASTM D434
11 Tear strength ISO13937-1 ASTM D1424
12 Tear strength ISO 13937-2-rip ASTM D2261
13 Abrasion ISO 12947 ASTM D4966
14 Pilling ISO 12945-2 ASTM D4970
15 pH ISO 3071 AATCC 81
16 Stretchability ISO 147704-1 AATCC D3107
17 Fabric weight ISO 3801 ASTM D3776
18 Fabric width ISO 3932 ASTM D3774
110
19 Construction/ ISO 7211/2 ASTM D3775
threads per unit
length
20 Stiffnes ASTM D4032
21 Ozone Fastness ISO 105 G03 AATCC 109
12.4 Some calculation used in LAB:
𝑠ℎ𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑘𝑎𝑔𝑒 𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑤𝑎𝑠ℎ−𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑤𝑎𝑠ℎ

Shrinkage = × 100
𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑤𝑎𝑠ℎ
𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑟𝑒𝑐𝑜𝑣𝑒𝑟𝑦 𝑙𝑜𝑎𝑑−𝑏𝑒𝑛𝑐ℎ 𝑚𝑎𝑟𝑘

Growth= 𝑏𝑒𝑛𝑐ℎ 𝑚𝑎𝑟𝑘
×100
𝑠𝑒𝑡𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ−𝑏𝑒𝑛𝑐ℎ 𝑚𝑎𝑟𝑘

Recovery= ×100
𝑏𝑒𝑛𝑐ℎ 𝑚𝑎𝑟𝑘
𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ 𝑎𝑓𝑡𝑒𝑟 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ−𝑏𝑒𝑛𝑐ℎ 𝑚𝑠𝑟𝑘

Stretch= ×100
𝑏𝑒𝑛𝑐ℎ 𝑚𝑎𝑟𝑘
12.5. Some Important Types of Test and their Methods

 Perspiration Test
 pH Test
 Rubbing Fastness Test
 Color Fastness to wash
12.6 Perspiration Test (ISO Method – 105E04)

Specimen Preparation:
 Sample Size: 10 cm × 4 cm
 Acrylic Plates: 11 ps
 Pressure: 1 lbs.
111
 Temperature: (37 ± 1) º C
 Time: 4 hours
12.6.1 Solution Preparation:
Table 12.6.1.1: Acid Solution

Chemical Name Amount
Sodium chloride 5 gm
Sodium di hydrogen 2.2 gm
L. HistadineMonohydro chloride 0.5 gm
pH (adjusted by sodium hydroxide = 0.1 M) 5.5
Distilled Water Required amount
Table 12.6.1.2: Alkaline Solution

L. HistadineMonohydro chloride 0.5 gm
Di sodium hydrogen phosphate 2.5 gm
pH (adjusted by sodium hydroxide = 0.1 M) 8
Distilled Water Required amount
12.7 Perspiration Test (AATCC Method – 15)

Specimen Preparation:
 Sample Size: 6 cm × 6 cm
 Acrylic Plates: 21 ps
 Pressure: 0.8 lbs.
 Temperature: (38 ± 1) º C
112
 Time: 6 h ± 5 min
113
Table 12.7.1: Solution Preparation

Sodium phosphate di basic anhydrous 1 gm
Lactic acid 1 gm
pH (adjusted by sodium hydroxide = 0.1 M) 8
L – Histadine .25 gm
Working Procedure:
 At first cut the sample according to the required parameter
 Attached the sample with multi-fiber by the help of sewing machine
 Immersed the specimen in the acidic / alkali solution with water (3

samples for each solution) for about 30 minutes.
 After completing the time, the specimen is wash with cold water
 Finally, it dries under an Oven machine for shade matching.
12.8 pH Check (ISO – 3701)

Orbital shaker is used for checking the Fabric pH
Specimen & Chemical Preparation:
 Sample Size: (5×5) mm
 Sample weight: 2 gm (3 times)
 Amount of KCl = 7.45 gpl
Working Procedure:
 At first cut the specimen according to the required size
 Then prepare the KCl solution
114
 After that put the solution in the magnetic stirring m/c until the solution
is clearly mixed
 Then put the sample into three different beaker & take 100 ml solution
for each beaker (No. of beaker used in ETL = 09)
 After that put the beaker into Orbital Shaker m/c & the machine moves
to and fro with 30 rpm for 120 min
 After completing the time, the sample is check by pH meter
12.9. pH Check (AATCC – 81)
Specimen & Chemical Preparation:

 Sample Weight Before Cutting: 11/12 gm
 Sample Weight After Cutting: 10 gm
 Distilled Water: 250 ml
Working Procedure:
 At first measure the specimen of 11/12 gm
 Then cut the sample into small pieces & again measure the weight of
small pieces of 10 gm
 After that 250 ml distilled water is taken & heated it at 100º C for 10 min
 Then the sample is kept into the distilled water for 10 min
 At last the solution is cooled & pH is checked by pH meter
12.10 Rubbing Fastness Test

Method: AATCC – 08 & ISO – 105- X12
115
Apparatus & Materials:
 Crock meter
 Cotton rubbing fabric
 Grey scale for staining
 Color matching cabinet
 For wet rubbing distilled water
Working Procedure:
 Mounting the colored sample on the base board of the crock meter
 Mounting the cotton fabric to the peg by spring clip
 Rubbing the sample back & forth for complete 10 cycles (1 second for each cycle)
Measuring the staining by grey scale
Fig 12.10: Crock meter
12.11 Color Fastness to Wash

Method: ISO – 105 – C06
116
 Sample Size: (10×4) cm
 ECE Detergent = 4gpl
 Sodium perborate = 1gpl
Table 12.11: Time, temperature, liquor ratio, & amount of ball according
to categories
Category Temperature Time Ball L/R
A2S 40ºC 30 m 10 ps 150 ml
B2S 50ºC 30 m 25 ps 150 ml
C2S 60ºC 30 m 25 ps 150 ml
12.12 Wet labrotory:
Name of washing Machine Origin No. of Machine

Gyro wash England 01
Wascator England 03
Sweden 02
Whirlpool washing machine USA 04
117
Fig 12.12.1: Washing Machine
Name of drying Machine Origin No. of Machine

Whirlpool Tumble dryer machine 04
James Heal Tumble dryer machine England 01
M223/2 Precision Tumble dryer 03
ELBA Tumble dryer England 01
Fig 12.12.2: Dryer Machine
118
12.13 Clearance
Inspection output is the input of clearance department. Here

some checking parameters are as follows, such as
 CSV means Central Selvedge Variation (Shade)

 SSV means Selvedge to Selvedge Variation (Shade).
 Swatch / Hiddance are cut according to the buyer requirement
 From swatch (10×10) inch sample is cut for making blanket
 Blankets are made for matching different parameter after washing
(Maximum 50 sample in one blanket)
 Sample fabric is in the center position and lot sample is placed at all
side and then sewing
 Remained cloth is stored for 6 months if buyer send any complains
then this remained cloth is used to checked.
Table 12.13: DECMC values for Different Buyers:
Buyers Name DECMC Value
V.F Asia 1.2
American Eagle 1
H&M 1
Levi’s 1.5
119
Others 2
DECMC Values are measured by the help of a

spectrophotometer. Spectrophotometer mainly use D65/10 for
flash
Fig 12.13.1: Hunter lab (LabScan XE)
Fig 12.13.2: New hunter lab (LabScan XE)
120
CHAPTER 13: RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT (R & D)
13.1 Process flow chart of R& D:
13.2 R & D
The main goal of R&D department is finding good thing that are convenience
for the company and they try to implement it in our production to improve the
quality of fabric. It is divided into three sub-divisions such as
 Fabric Analysis & Development.
 Washing
 Sewing
121
13.2.1Fabric Analysis & Development
After receiving the swatch from the buyer, R& D department analysis the
swatch fabric. If the analyses result match with their developed program, then
they directly send it to the buyer. But if it is not match with their program then
they develop a new program related to the swatch sample and send it to the
buyer. If the buyer says ok, then they go to the production.
13.2.2 During fabric analysis they should check the following parameter:
 Warp count
 Weft count
 Color
 EPI& PPI
 Weave design
 Width
 Weight
 Construction
13.2.3 Formula for Calculating Warp & Weft Count
Warp / weft Count = Length(cm)÷Weight(gm)×0.0059
13.2.4 Color Test

For color test nitric acid is put as a drop on the fabric face side and check the color change.
Table 13.2: Shade wise color identification after nitric acid drop
Shade after Nitric acid drop Color Identification

Yellow Indigo
Unchanged Sulphur Black
Slowly & Brown Topping
Quickly & Brown Bottoming
122
13.3 Washing(R&D)
13.3.1 Washing section diveded into:

1. Dry process
2. Wet process
3. Chemical used
13.3.1.1 Dry process:

i. Whisker
ii. Hand sanding
iii. PP spray
iv. Destroy
v. Grinding
vi. 3D
vii. Patch
viii. Coating
13.3.1.2 Wet process:

1. Rinse wash
2. Enzyme wash
3. Stone- Enzyme wash
4. Bleach wash
5. Random wash/ Acid wash with KmnO4
6. Garments dyeing
13.3.1.3 Chemical used:

1.Enzyme
• Desizing enzyme (Normal PH)
• Neutral enzyme ( PH 07)
• Bio polishing/ Acid enzyme (PH 4.5-5.5) For removal hairiness
2. KmnO4- For color fading
3. Bleaching agent
 Bleach KCI (Chlorine 35%)
 Bleach Germany (Chlorine 60%)
4. Neutralizer (Only after potash and bleach)

9 Sodium meta bi sulphate
10 Hydroxyl ammonium sulphate
11 Sodium thio sulphate(Hypo)
12 H2O2 (Only for bleach neutralize)
5. Soda ash (For cleaning in denim wash + PH maintain for dyeing)
6. Caustic soda
123
7. Anti-back staining agent
8. Resin (For 3D, or special purpose)
9. Softener
a. Cationic softener
b. Nonionic softener (Only for white fabric)
c. Anti-ozone softener (Only for bleached fabric)
d. Silicon softener
10. Acetic acid (For PH control)
11. Fixing agent for color fixing
12. Salt (To increase color absorption)
13.3.2 Basic Recipe for Different Washing:
1.Rinse wash:
Water 100L
Temperature 45-50 ºC
Desizing 75-100gm
Time 8-10
** for each shade wash two time
2.Enzyme wash:
Water 80L
Enzyme 100gm
pH 5-5.5
Time 6-8 min
3.Enzyme Bleach Wash
It is done after completing enzyme wash
124
Water 90L
Bleaching Chemical 500CC
Time 6-8 min
***Wash two times and after complete washing neutralization is essential
 Neutralization bath recipe:
Water 60-70L
Neutralization chemical 250-300gm
Time 5 min
4.Enzyme stone and Enzyme heavy stone:
Water 80L
Enzyme 100gm
Stone 2-2.5kg( For heavy stone wash 4-6kg)
Time 35-40min
5.Enzyme Stone Bleach

***It is done by after completing enzyme stone wash.
Water 90L
Bleaching chemical 500CC
TIME 6-8 min
125
*** Wash two times and after complete washing neutralization is essentil
13.4 Sewing Section

Sewing is the process by which different cut pieces are attached by the help of sewing machine
Fig 13.4: sewing section

13.4.1 Types of machine & their amount are as follows:
Machine Name No. of Machine
Sewing machine 05
Hole machine 01
Button stitch machine 01
Eyelet hole machine 01
Bar tack machine 01
Fit of the Arm machine 01
Loop machine 01
Overlock machine 02(4 & 5 Thread)
Two needle machines 01
Snap eyelet machine 01
126
CHAPTER: 14
S
14.1 Introduction
Production and profit are closely related. In order to get a quality final product it needed
fresh raw materials as well as effective manpower and machinery in good working
condition. Utility in conjugation with the three M‟s pays a vital role to maximize the
production as well as profit.
14.2 Utility Ensure
 Power supply
 Water supply
 Steam supply (By boiler)
 Compressed air supply (By Air compressor)
 Exhaust air handing (By vacuum planning system) Gas supply
 Workshop facility
 Civil work
 Waste water treatment (By effluent project)
14.3 Electricity
 Total electricity consumption: 2000 KW (2 MW)
 Electricity consumption according to division wise:
 For dyeing unit: 190 KW
 For weaving unit: 380 KW
 For finishing unit: 100 KW
14.4 Generator
An electrical generator is a machine, which converts mechanical energy (or power) into
electrical energy (or power).
14.5 Principle:
The energy conversion is based on the principle of the production of dynamically
(or motional) induced e.m.f. When a conductor cuts magnetic flux, dynamically induced
e.m.f. is produced in it according to flow if the conductor circuit is closed.
Hence two essential parts of an electrical generator are
• A magnetic and
127
• A conductor or conductors, which can so, move as cut the flux.
14.5.1 Types of Generator:

Generators are usually classified according to the way in which
Their fields are excited. Generator may be divided in to –
 Separately excited generators,
 Self-excited generators.
 Separately excited generators are those whose field magnets are energized from an
independent external source of D.C. current.
 Self-excited generators are those whose field magnets are energized by current
produced by the generators themselves.
 There are three types of self-excited generators named according to the manner in
which their field coils are connected to the armature.
Specification:
 Brand : GUASKOR Origin : SPAIN
 Capacity : 500 K.W/engine
 No. of cylinder : 4 stroke
 Fuel used : Natural gas
 Volt : 50 H.Z & 390-395 Volts
 Total Number : 4
14.6 BOILER
128
Fig. 14.6: Boiler
A steam generator or boiler is usually, a closed vessel made of steel for supplying steam.
Function:
Boiler‟s function is to transfer the heat produced by the combustion of fuel (gas) to water,
and ultimately to generate steam. The steam produced may be supplied:
 At low pressing for industrial process work in cotton mills.

 To wet processing department for
 Heating cylinder dryer.
 Steaming during dying and printing
Specification:
 Manufacturers : Babcock, Country : Germany
 Model : TD-100/10-54/GAS/E
 Type of boiler : Horizontal twin drum 3-pass fire tubes
 Steam pressure : 2.5 kg/cm2
 Capacity : 10 tones/hour
 Fuel used : Natural gas
 Fuel cost : Tk. 3.65/Unit
 Gads cost/month : Tk. 2.1 million (for boiler only)
 Water flow : 5kg/hr
129
 Steam flow : 5kg/hr
 Steam temp : 1390c
14.6.1 Boiler Mountings:

Though there are many types of boiler mountings or fittings, yet the following are important
from the subject point of view.
 Water level indicate
 Pressure gauge
 Safety valve
 Stop valve
 Blow off cock
 Feed check valve
 Fusible plug
Proper maintenance of these above fittings makes boiler safe functioning & improvement of
economy. An economizer which is used to heat water by utilizing the heat in the exhaust
flue gases before leaving through the chimney improves the economy of the steam boiler.
14.7 Advantages of Using an Economizer:

 There is about 15 to 20% fuel saving
 It shortens the time required, to convert water into steam. It prevents formation of
scale in boiler water tubes
 Since the feed water entering the boulders is hot, the strains due to unequal
expansion are minimized
Precaution:
a. Industrial water i.e. boiler feed water must be free from heavy metals such as Ca, Fe and
salts Sulfate and Chloride. Water must be cleaned and be free from dissolved and Cos.
Because dissolved Og Ion Present of is a common cause of corrosion effect in the boiler.
b. The temp of feed should not be less than about 350c otherwise there is a danger of
corrosion due to the moisture in the full gases being deposited cold tubes.
14.8 AIR COMPRESSOR
130
Fig. 14.8: Air compressor
An air compressor is a machine to compress the air and to raise its pressure. The air
compressor sucks air from the atmosphere, compresses it and then delivers the same under a
high pressure to a storage vessel. From a storage vessel, the pipeline to a place where the
supply, of compressed air is required.
Types:
 According to working-
• Reciprocation compressors
• Rotary compressors.
 According to action
 According to number stages
• Double acting compressors
 According to number of stages-
 Single stage compressor
 Multistage compressors.
SPECIFICATION:
 Brand Name : KAESER Origin : Germarny
 Production : 23m3/ hour
131
 Power required to run : 160 KW/ hour
 Pressure of the delivered air : 11 bar
 Type : Screw type
 Total number : 5
14.9 HUMIDIFIER
 Brand: Luma
 Country: Switzerland
 Temperature supply: 18 C water spray (29 to 30 C in summer)
 Relative humidity: 70%
14.10 CHILLER
Fig. 14.10: Chiller
Specification:
 Brand : THERMAX
 Origin : India
 Total : 3
 Capacity : 180 norm RT
 Steam pressure : 9 kg/cm2
132
 Chemical used : Lithium Bromide
Chapter 15
ETP
Fig 15.1:ETP
15.1 Introduction:
133
ETP is very much concern about its effluent, for this reason they established
effluent treatment (capacity 200 m3 per hour). The ETP in ETL is biological one.
Here bacterial and protozoa are the catalyst of biochemical reaction to convert the
toxic material into environmental friendly gases and substances. The initial cost of
biological ETP is more but it has a low running cost if control is greater.
ETP of ETL has successfully established in the beginning and running continuously
24 hours a day. They are maintaining all the discharged parameters according to
environmental law.
15.2: Layout of ETP:
Fig .15.2: Layout of ETP
15.3 Types of ETP plant:

1. Chemical traetment plant
134
2. Biological treatment plant
3. Biochemical treatment plant or Phisiochemibiology Treatment
In ETL used Biochemical treatment plant
15.4 Quality of dischargeable water:
1. PH 6-9
2. BOD <50mg/L
3. COD <200 mg/L
4. TDS < 2100mg/L
5. TSS < 150 mg/L
6. DO 4.5-8
15.5 Processing Sequence:
1. Screen chamber / Net (Remove wastage in water)

2. Equalization tank:
Obejectives:
To make a common cincentration of waste water with same
PH & Temperature
3. Chemical treatment plant:

1. PH correction / Neutralization (HCL) PH 9.5- 10
2. Coagulation Used FeSO4 + Cao
Objectives:
Inorganic material breaks into small part
3. Flocculation Used polyelectrolyte
Obejective:
Small part inorganic material become large by connected together
135
4. Primary Clearfier
Obejective:
Holding for a time so that resudual inorganic material can store as sludge in sludge tank
5.Biological Treatment:
1. Bioreactor / Aeration tank

Objective:
Here used Bacteria with presence of Urea & DAP, with help of oxygen Bacteria break organic
material and start growth
6.Secondary clearifier:
Obejective:
Some water passes for next process and sludge store into the sludge tank
7. Fully water clearify
8. Filtration tank
9. Sand filter
Remove TSS
10. Post aeration tank

Obejective:
Add oxygen
Maintain DO 4.5-8
11. Discharge
Sludge tank processing:

7. Sludge tank
8. Sludge thickener UseCao, Discharge some to equalization tank
9. Filter pressure
136
10. Make cake like shape, & store for 6 month and then dumping done
15.6 Equipment for ETP Laboratory
Fig 15.6.1: Vacuum pup for filtration
137
Fig 15.6.2: Stirrer machine
Fig15.6.3: BOD Incubator
138
Fig 15.6.4:Spectrophotometer & COD Reactor
Fig 15.6.5: Oven
139
CHAPTER: 16 STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL
16.1 Store & inventory control

Inventory control of raw materials, semi-finished goods, finished goods and other
miscellaneous goods lead smooth production. As SDL follow the correct way of
inventory control system, it can have a good and huge production as it demands.
There are two (one is small & other huge) room for storing and inventory control .
16.2 Layout of Fabric store:
Fig16.2: Layout of Fabric store
140
16.3 Scope of inventory control in ETL
1. Raw materials
2. Yarns
3. Dyes store
4. Others chemicals store
5. Finished fabric
6. Spare part
7. General store
8. Capital equipment
9. Accessories
10. Stationary
11. Maintenance parts.
16.4 Inventory System for Raw Material

The main raw material of denim fabric is yarn, which is stored in two stages such as-
Long time storage
Storage before production
Long time storage

These are the amount of yarns which are required for the production of several months
as prerequisite.
Storage before production

The amounts of yarn, which are loaded in the store, room concern with the production
section for continuous speed of production.
16.5 Inventory System of Spare Parts

The spare parts of different section such as preparatory & dyeing, weaving section,
finishing section are stored. If a machine is innovated its slightly effected parts will
be stored as spare after repairing needed. In addition, these parts are used in
conjunction with new parts.
141
CHAPTER 17: CONCLUSIONS
Envoy Textiles Ltd. produces high quality fashion denim fabric only. The plant is fully
integrated with the state of the-art technology and machinery of Switzerland, Germany,
Belgium, USA to give their customer the real classical denim fabric which is made with the
most modern yarn dyeing machine computerized rope dyeing machine.
Envoy Textiles Ltd. produces more than 20 million yards of denim fabric per year. As killed
worker group has been working for twenty-four hours to provide the best quality. The rotor
yarn, dyestuff, sizing materials all are high quality.
I am fortunate enough for getting the opportunity of doing my industrial attachment in this
well-organized factory. During the training period I have got co-operation from all the people,
workers, sections as well as high officials. Finally, I would like to thank them all and my
respect to them. I am really grateful to them.
I have completed my industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Almighty. Industrial

attachment sends me to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the three
months Industrial Attachment at Envoy Textiles Ltd I have gotten the impression that the
factory is one of the most modern denim fabrics manufacturing factory in Bangladesh. Though
it was established only a few years ago, it has earned very good reputations for its best
performance over many other denim fabric manufacturing textile mills. Mill is settled with
utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty-four hours. Envoy Textiles
Ltd has its own water treatment plant (WTP) & 12,300 cubic feet water reservoirs. ETL has
its own power generation plant generators guarantee smooth & uninterrupted power supply to
its every operation.
The End
142

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BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology

ENVOY TEXTILES LTD

Department of Textile Engineering (TE)

Envoy Textiles Limited.

From 1st January 2020 to 29th February 2020

Examiner 1(Supervisor): Prof. Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr. Siddique.............Signature:

Examiner 2(External Member)...........................................................Signature

Examiner 3(External Member).............................................................Signature

Student of Textile Engineering (TE). Major in Fabric Manufacturing Engineering from

Name: Hasan Syead Onike

Similar, profound gratitude goes to Head of Department, MS Setara Begum, Asst.

By achieving practical knowledge, it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the

Chapter Chapter Name Topic Name Page

DECLARATION OF INDUSTRIAL III

Chapter-1 COMPANY PROFILE 1-9

Chapter-2 HUMAN RESOURCE 10-

2.4.3 Deputy General Manager (DGM)

2.4.4 Senior Production Officer

2.4.5 Production Officer

2.4.6 Shift in charge

Chapter-3 CORPORATE SOCIAL 3.1 Introduction of CSR 15-

Chapter-4 RAW MATERIALS 4.1 Denim Yarns 20-

Chapter-5 BALL WARPING 5.1 Warping 23-

Chapter-6 DYEING 6.1 Introduction 34-

Chapter-9 WEAVING 9.1 Weaving 61-

Chapter- CONCLUSION Conclusion 142

No.of Name of figures No. of pages

Fig 1.2: Aerial View of Envoy Textile Ltd 2

Fig 1.9 Company Layout 6

Fig 2.2: Manpower Organogram 12

Fig 3.3.1 Gymnasium 16

Fig 3.3.2 Birthday celebration 16

Fig 3.3.3 Dormitory 17

Fig 3.3.4 Annual sports celebration 17

Fig 3.3.5 Ambulance 17

Fig 3.3.6 Provide free snacks 17

Figure3.5.1 Fire Fighting Training 18

Figure3.5.2 Emergency Lightning 18

Figure3.5.3 First Aid Box 18

Figure3.5.4 General Equipment 19

Figure3.5.6 Emergency Exit 19

Fig 5.4 Layout plan of Ball Warping 24

Fig 5.7 Front & Side view of Ball Warping Machin 25

Fig 5.8 creels 26

Fig 5.15 Recone machine 33

Fig 6.1 Dyeing 34

Fig 6.2 Layout plan of Dying 35

Fig 6.3 Rope dyeing 35

Fig 6.9 Morrison rope dyeing machine 39

Fig 6.13.1 Spectrophotometer 42

Fig 6.13.3 Metrohm 43

Fig 6.13.5 Light box 44

Fig 7.2 Layout of Long Chain Beamer (LCB) 46

Fig 7.5.1 Schematic diagram of long chain beamer 47

Fig 7.5.2 Griffin machine 48

Fig 7.5.3 Karl Mayer machine 48

Fig 8.4 Layout of SIZING 52

Fig 8.5.1 Morrison sizing machine 54

Fig 8.5.2 Ukil sizing machine 55

Fig 8.9.1 Viscometer 59

Fig 8.9.2 Refraction meter 59

Fig 8.12 Beam stoker machine 60

Fig 9.1 Woven cloth 62

Fig 9.2.2 Picking mechanism 63