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DESCRIPTION
Are you ready for the jacket season? Whether you are a veteran seamstress or a sewing novice, you are going
to enjoy the simplicity and grace of the Hvar Jacket. This unlined jacket can transform a ho-hum outfit to the
epitome of modern chic. In the Hvar Jacket, you will be fittingly polished at any event!

What is the “layers” feature?


HVAR JACKET FEATURES
In this PDF, you can choose
◊ Unlined bodice with optional Hong Kong seam finish
to turn off the sizes you
◊ Graceful waterfall collar
don’t need, so there are no
◊ Chic pointed front hem
more distracting lines in
◊ Long sleeves
the pattern! See page 4 for
◊ Layers feature (print only the sizes you need)
instructions.

TERMS OF USE
You may make garments from this pattern for personal use and for sale. However, you may not sell or
distribute the pattern or instructions in their digital or printed form. If your friends or family would like
to have a copy, please refer them to Itch-to-Stitch.com to purchase a copy of the PDF pattern for their
individual use. The purchaser has permission to have the pattern printed for their own use.

SIZING
This pattern includes twelve women’s sizes from 00 to 20. The Hvar Jacket is designed to be worn open.
The jacket is slightly cropped and the hem should hit between the waist and the fullest part of the hip. The
Hvar has a slim fit and is designed to be worn over a lightweight T-shirt or blouse. Check both the “Body
Measurements” and “Finished Garment Measurements” tables to find your best fit.

CHOOSING YOUR SIZE


1. Compare your bust circumference (fullest part) to the “Body Measurements” table. Choose the size that
best fits your bust. If your cup size is D or larger, you may wish to go down one size. If you are between
sizes, choose the smaller size if you like your garment more fitted; otherwise, choose the bigger size.
2. Compare your waist circumference (narrowest part) to the “Body Measurements” table. Choose the size
that best fits your waist. If you are between sizes, choose the smaller size if you like your garment more
fitted; otherwise, choose the bigger size.
3. Compare your hip circumference (widest part) to the “Body Measurements” table. Choose the size that
best fits your hip. If you are between sizes, choose the smaller size if you like your garment more fitted;
otherwise, choose the bigger size.
4. It’s OK to use different sizes. See “Blend Sizes” (Page 6) for details.
5. If you use a very-stable, medium-weight knit fabric with no stretch, go down one size; with up to 10%
stretch, go down two sizes.
6. If you are taller or shorter than 5’6” (168 cm), you should consider lengthening or shortening the jacket
(see “Lengthen/Shorten” on page 6).

I highly recommend that you check your fit by making a test garment with inexpensive fabric that has
similar weight as your final garment fabric.
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BODY MEASUREMENTS
(in) 00 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Bust 31 1⁄8 32 1⁄2 33 7⁄8 35 1⁄8 36 1⁄2 37 7⁄8 39 1⁄4 40 5⁄8 42 43 1⁄4 44 5⁄8 46
Waist 25 3⁄8 26 3⁄4 28 1⁄8 29 1⁄2 30 7⁄8 32 1⁄4 33 5⁄8 35 36 3⁄8 37 3⁄4 39 1⁄8 40 1⁄2
Hip 33 1⁄4 34 5⁄8 35 7⁄8 37 1⁄4 38 5⁄8 40 41 1⁄4 42 5⁄8 44 45 3⁄8 46 5⁄8 48

(cm) 00 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Bust 79 82.5 86 89 92.5 96 99.5 103 106.5 110 113.5 117
Waist 64.5 68 71.5 75 78.5 82 85.5 89 92.5 96 99.5 103
Hip 84.5 88 91 94.5 98 101.5 105 108.5 112 115.5 118.5 122

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS


(in) 00 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Bust 39 1⁄4 40 1⁄2 41 3⁄4 43 44 45 1⁄4 46 1⁄2 47 3⁄4 48 3⁄4 50 51 1⁄4 52 1⁄4
Waist 35 36 1⁄4 37 1⁄2 38 1⁄2 39 3⁄4 41 42 1⁄4 43 1⁄4 44 1⁄2 45 3⁄4 46 3⁄4 48
Hip* 37 1⁄2 38 1⁄2 39 3⁄4 41 42 1⁄4 43 1⁄4 44 1⁄2 45 3⁄4 46 3⁄4 48 49 1⁄4 50 1⁄2
Back Length 21 5⁄8 21 5⁄8 21 3⁄4 21 3⁄4 21 7⁄8 21 7⁄8 22 22 22 1⁄8 22 1⁄8 22 1⁄4 22 1⁄4
Sleeve Length 22 3⁄4 22 3⁄4 22 3⁄4 22 3⁄4 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 1⁄8 24 1⁄8

(cm) 00 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
Bust 99.5 103 106 109 112 115 118 121.5 124 127 130 132.5
Waist 89 92 95.5 98 101 104 107.5 110 113 116 118.5 122
Hip* 95.5 98 101 104 107.5 110 113 116 118.5 122 125 128.5
Back Length 55 55 55 55 55.5 55.5 56 56 56 56 56.5 56.5
Sleeve Length 58 58 58 58 61 61 61 61 61 61 61.5 61.5
*Hip is the circumference at the bottom of the jacket

BUST SLEEVE
LENGTH BUST BACK
LENGTH
WAIST
WAIST

HIP HIP

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MATERIALS
PRIMARY FABRIC Woven fabric with good drape, such as Hong Kong Seam Finish
crepe, lightweight tweed and medium-weight rayon You can finish your seam using the Hong Kong
blends; medium-weight, very stable knit fabric with seam finish. The result is stunning. For a photo
minimal stretch (no more than 10%) is acceptable. tutorial, see itch-to-stitch.com/hkfinish.

Using the continuous loop method


OTHER MATERIAL (itch-to-stitch.com/biastape ) to make the bias
◊ 16” (41 cm) of 3/8” or 1/2” (1 cm or 1.25 cm)-wide
tape, you will need a 18” x 18” (46 x 46 cm) square
straight fusible stay tape (or you may cut your own
of fabric to make enough bias tape for this jacket.
using lightweight woven fusible interfacing on the
straight grain)

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS
Most natural fibers shrink in the wash; be sure to have enough fabric. The requirements below assume that
the fabric is already pre-shrunk.

IMPERIAL/YARDS
00 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
54” Wide 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8 2 3⁄8

METRIC/CM
00 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
135 cm Wide 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210 210

PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS
1. This pattern includes layered pattern tiles that
allow you to print only the sizes you need. In
Acrobat Reader, click on the Layers icon on
the left tab. Expand “Itch to Stitch Hvar Jacket
PDF Sewing Pattern.” Next to each size is an
eye icon. Uncheck the sizes you don’t need,
and leave the eye icon on for the size(s) that
you want. As you toggle the eye icons on and
off, you can see the pattern lines (on any page
from 11 to 32) appear/disappear as a result.
2. Print page 11 first to check the size by
measuring the 1” x 1” or 2.5 x 2.5 cm scaling
square printed on the pattern.
3. If you wish to print the pattern tiles without
the instructions, print pages 11 to 32.
4. Make sure that you choose “Actual Size” or
scale to 100% in the print dialog box.
5. The pattern can be printed on either A4 or US Letter (8.5” x 11”) size paper. A large format print shop
version of the pattern is provided in a separate file.
6. Print from Adobe Acrobat Reader only. Make sure you have the latest updates (go to Help -> Check for
updates). Do not print from a browser or Preview (Mac OS).

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TILE TAPING INSTRUCTIONS
◊ The pattern contains 22 pattern tiles.
◊ Each tile contains a watermark number. See the image below for an overview of where the tiles should
be placed. You will have to fold or cut the paper in order to align the circles/tile edges.
◊ The page numbers are stated in red below for your convenience; they are not printed on the pattern
tiles.

11 12 13 14 15 16

17 18 19 20 21 22

23 24 25 26 27 28

29 30 31 32

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FABRIC CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS
Remember to pre-shrink fabric by pre-washing washables or steam-pressing non-washables.
Pattern Piece Primary Fabric
1 - Front 2 mirror images
2 - Back 1 on fold
3 - Sleeve 2 mirror images
4 - Collar 2 on fold

BLEND SIZES
You may need to choose different sizes for the bust, waist and hip by blending sizes. First, print the sizes
using the Layers function (see Printing Instructions on page 4). Then follow these instructions to blend sizes.

1. On Front (1), fold the bust dart closed as best as you can with the dart bulk
down. Draw a very gentle curve from one size in the bust to another size in
the waist (and then to another size in the hip if necessary) at the side. Make
sure the transitions of the lines are very smooth. Cut through all layers to true
the dart.
2. Similarly, on Back (2), starting at about the same level as the front, draw a
very gentle curve from one size in the bust to another size in the waist (and
then to another size in the hip if necessary) at the side.
3. For the Collar (4), use the size that corresponds to your bust size.

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN
The lengthen/shorten lines are included in this pattern to adjust the length of the garment.
1. Cut at the lengthen/shorten lines.
2. Spread them apart for the desired added amount. Be sure each pair is still
vertically aligned.
3. Draw lines to connect each pair. Make sure the transitions are very smooth.
4. On Back (2), reconnect the back dart from the point to the widest point of the
dart.
5. The same method is used to shorten; overlap the pieces instead of spreading
them apart.

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LAYOUT DIAGRAMS
PRIMARY FABRIC * Flipped
54” (135 cm) Wide
All Sizes
Fold Fold

2
4

Selvage

3
1 4*

Selvage Fold

SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
◊ It is important to transfer markings to the wrong sides of fabric before removing the pattern pieces from
the fabric. Also mark the center back on the fold of the Back and Collar.
◊ Seam allowances are 1/2” (1.25 cm) and hem allowances are 1” (2.5 cm).
◊ You may choose to finish the seams by zigzagging, serging, Hong Kong finish or other methods.
◊ If you use a knit fabric, you can serge your seams instead. Press serged seams toward the back where
appropriate.
◊ For professional results, be sure to press your seams as you sew. It’s really worth your time!
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS KEY

Grain Line Dart

Place on Fold of Fabric Right Side

Notch (or Single Notch) Wrong Side

Lengthen or Shorten Line

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1 Cut two pieces of fusible 5 With right sides together,
stay tape and apply over pin Front to Back at the
both shoulder seam side. Stitch. Press open.
lines of Back (2) on the Repeat for the other side.
wrong side. Fusible tapes Finish seams as desired.
will not be shown in the
illustrations below.

2 Sew bust dart on Front 6 Finish bottom edge of


(1). Press dart bulk down. Front and Back as desired
(but do not fold up or
hem yet).

3 Sew fish eye dart on Back. 7 With right sides together,


Press dart bulk toward pin one Collar (4) to the
the side. (itch-to-stitch. other. Stitch bottom, side
com/fisheye) and top seams, pivoting
at the corners. Trim and
grade seams (itch-to-
stitch.com/gradeseam).

4 With right sides together, 8 Turn Collar right side out.


pin Front to Back at the Press. Topstitch 1/2” (1.25
shoulder. Stitch. Press cm) from and along the
open. Repeat for the bottom, side and top
other shoulder. Finish edges.
seams as desired.

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9 Baste along the inner 13 Fold up hem of Front
curve of Collar to hold and Back, wrapping the
the two layers together. seam of Front and Collar.
Slip stitch hem invisibly
Hem wraps over seam
or topstitch hem. The
finished length of Front
is now flush with the
Collar’s length.

10 Pin Collar to the right 14 Stitch two lines of


side of Front and Back basting stitches between
along the edge, matching the second and fourth
Front hem overhang
notches. Note that there notches on the Sleeve (3)
is an overhang of hem cap, leaving long thread
allowance on the bottom tails at each end. One
of Front. Stitch through line should be 1/8” (0.3
all layers. cm) from the raw edge,
and the second should
be 1/4” (0.6 cm) from the
raw edge. Repeat for the
other sleeve.
11 Finish seam as desired. 15 Finish bottom edge of
If you use Hong Kong Sleeve as desired (but do
seam finish, note that the not hem yet). Repeat for
Collar side is the right the other Sleeve.
side for the finish. Press
seam toward Front and
Back.

12 Topstitch 3/8” (1 cm) 16 Stitch Sleeve seam with


from and along the seam right sides together. Press
through the two layers of seam open. Finish seam
Collar and Front/Back. as desired. Repeat for the
other Sleeve.

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17 With right sides together, 19 Hem Sleeve by pressing
place sleeve inside 1” (2.5 cm). Slip stitch
armhole, matching front, hem invisibly or topstitch
back, shoulder notches hem.
and underarm seam,
and pin. Adjust sleeve
cap ease, but no gathers
should be visible. Stitch
around armhole. Repeat
for the other Sleeve.

18 Press seam toward You are done! Put on your


Sleeve. Finish seam as awesome jacket, admire
desired. Repeat for the your handiwork, smile
other Sleeve. and take a picture!

Check out others’ Hvar Jackets, show off your own


creation, discuss the pattern and trade tips with your
fellow sewists.

Website ITCH-TO-STITCH.COM

Facebook FACEBOOK.COM/GROUPS/ITCHTOSTITCHDESIGNS

Instagram #HVARJACKET #ITCHTOSTITCHDESIGNS

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Itch to 1” x 1” 2.5 x 2.5 cm

Stitch
Be sure to measure the 1”
or 2.5 cm scaling square
Sewing Pattern before cutting your fabric!

1
Size 00 - 20
© 2017 by Itch to Stitch. All rights reserved. No
part of this document may be reproduced or
transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording,
SIZE KEY
or otherwise, without prior written permission of Size
Itch to Stitch.
20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
00
Grain Line

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Center Fold
2
Itch to
Stitch

4
Collar

Cut 2 of Primary Fabric on Fold

1/2” (1.25 cm) Seam Allowance Included

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3 Grain Line

Itch to
Stitch

3
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5
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Only customer 1” (2.5
Itch to
Stitch

2
Back

Cut 1 of Primary Fabric on Fold

1/2” (1.25 cm) Seam Allowance


and with cm) Hem
email Allowance
address Included
sewyourtv@yahoo.com
Grain Line

may use this sewing pattern.


7
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Sleeve

Cut 2 mirror images of Primary Fabric

1/2” (1.25 cm) Seam Allowance and


and 1” (2.5 cm) Hem Allowance Included

9 Lengthen or Shorten

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11 Lengthen or

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12
Shorten

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Center Fold
Lengthen or Shorten

13
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Lengthen or Shorten

20
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Cut 2 Mirror Images of Primary Fabric
21
1/2” (1.25 cm) Seam Allowance
and 1” (2.5 cm) Hem Allowance Included

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Grain Line

Stitch
Itch to
Front

22 Only customer with email address sewyourtv@yahoo.com may use this sewing pattern.

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