7/27/2010

VERSION 1 MAINTENANCE HOW TOS

Tutorials were taken from Gas Man’s BDB post from 4/10/2007 - “ How To Service your Big Dog”
Table of Contents
Table of Contents .......................................................................................................................................... 2
Cable Lubing .................................................................................................................................................. 3
Clutch: ....................................................................................................................................................... 3
Throttle: .................................................................................................................................................... 7
Brakes............................................................................................................................................................ 8
Front:......................................................................................................................................................... 8
REAR: ......................................................................................................................................................... 9
Air Filter/Carb/Throttle ................................................................................................................................. 9
Oils – Engine/Transmission/Primary ........................................................................................................... 12
Engine: .................................................................................................................................................... 12
Transmission: .......................................................................................................................................... 20
Primary: ................................................................................................................................................... 28
Cable Lubing
Clutch:
1. Spray the clutch cable at the top by pulling the lever in and spraying in the cable lining
2. Spray some lube down the top of the cover to help slide it up and out of the way.

3. This is what you'll see

4. Loosen the lock nut and spin the clutch cable loose.
5. Spray some lube in the hole. I do this many times to allow it to work down the cable.
Throttle:

1. Also lube your throttle cables. Only one spot to get lube down the cable... at the grip. Loosen
the lock nuts and spin the cables free. You'll have to do one at a time because it will tighten
the other. I do this about 4 times just like the clutch.
Brakes
1. Brakes are a vital piece to the whole puzzle. So not only will we inspect the pad wear on the
front and rear. We will ensure proper use by observing the caliper functioning up close. This
may require somebody else to press the appropriate lever. Then we will remove the reservoir
covers and make sure both are full.

Front:
REAR:

Air Filter/Carb/Throttle
1. Get your air filter set right. Removing your teardrop cover to gain access to the filter.
2. This would be a used/dirty K&N. I will simply clean it and re-oil it. But your paper filter may
look similar and needs to be replaced.
3. By now you should have your throttle cables put back together and adjusted the free play.
Now let’s check to make sure it is working properly and that your jets are spraying correctly.

4. I usually have to clean this off a bit. But with the filter off it will give you a good chance to
check the jets and lube the throttle cables that are hooked to the side of the carb. Plus ensure
that your throttle is closing and opening freely. It is good to check it with your bars turned
both ways to ensure no binding.
Oils – Engine/Transmission/Primary
Engine:
1. Check your oil level and condition of your engine oil by pulling the dipstick. Ensure when
always checking oil level that the bike is level and off the kickstand. Let’s first drain the engine
oil. Pull the oil plug from the bottom of the oil tank. Left/kick stand side of the bike next to
the rear end of the rear shocks.

2. Inspect the plug and the metal fragments on the end of the plug. The plug is magnetic to catch
shavings from your motor oil.
3. While that is draining. Pull, check and clean your tappet screen. It is located on the
right/exhaust side of the bike. Above the oil pump and in front of the drive belt pulley.
4. I clean it with brake clean and let it air dry for a min. Enjoy a beverage! Re-install the tappet
screen. This takes a bit of finesse. First try it with just the nut cover so you get the feel for how
it goes in. Now try it with the screen and the spring. I used a socket and extension to aid
putting it in. Use one hand to keep pressure down and the other to spin.
5. If the oil is done draining from oil tank. Put the plug back in. I like to use a dab of high temp rtv
silicone on the plug to ensure a good seal. And torque it to specs (10ft lbs) then refill the oil
with 3 qrts of oil of choice.
6. Now time to remove the engine oil filter. Remove crank sensor. Clean and inspect. This allows
for easier removal of the oil filter.
7. Beware. You may want something to catch this oil coming out soon. Or a lot of rags for clean
up or both. Spin off...
8. OPTIONAL PHASE for those with a Scavenger Complete Oil System
http://www.roguechopper.com/. Spin on scavenger unit.

9. Start bike at idle and pump out the rest of the old oil that is still in your system. I removed
about an extra quart of black dirty oil. See what you're wouldn't be getting out.
This is at about a 1/2 a quart into the evacuation of the old oil
10. Remove your new oil filter from the package, apply a little bit of new oil to the new oil filter o-
ring and spin onto the bike.

11. Check oil level in oil tank top off as necessary. Start bike again to wet down the system. Allow
to set. Time to have another cold beverage. Check oil level again and top off as necessary.
Remember it’s easier to keep adding a little versus trying to remove if you add too much.
Transmission:
1. Going to need to fab something to catch the oil coming out of the tranny. I cut up an old 2 liter
plastic pop bottle.
2. Also get your 20 oz of tranny oil ready. By pouring out some from a full quart to an old quart.
Like so...
3. Pull the tranny dipstick and check the oil level and condition.

4. Pull the tranny drain plug. Located under the bike just in front of the front drive belt pulley.
5. As you are spinning the last few threads off on this drain plug... have your pan or 2-liter catch
ready... like so...
6. As this is draining pull, inspect, clean, and re-install your speedo sensor. It is located under
your seat, in front of the starter, on top of the tranny
7. Enjoy a cold one. The tranny oil is thick and drains slowly unless warm. Replace drain plug
into the tranny and consider using the dab of silicone as stated above with the engine oil drain
plug.

8. Now add your 20oz of tranny oil in thru the dipstick hole like so.
Primary:
1. Remove inspection plate to check level and condition of the oil.
 ***Now you may notice that I removed the sponge and filled the seeping hole on the top with
silicone. There is no need for it with the eyehole breather on the backside of the inner primary.
Lets continue. You can see on these new 2006 models that you can hardly inspect the chain
lash/free play or much else. The derby covers are decorative and don't remove to gain access.
So I always remove the outer primary if any adjustments are needed to the primary chain.

2. Either way, we need to drain the oil. By simply removing the primary oil drain plug located
towards the rear of the bike just in front of the kickstand.
3. Inspect the drain plug and its magnet. Take notice to the shavings on it as well.

4. My bike is still pretty new and this being the end of my riding season decided to pull the
primary. Be prepared to have excess oil come out as you remove this cover. Have rags handy!
5. Check the chain lash/free play and adjust using the nut in the center of the primary. The chain
should have from 5/8 - 7/8 inch of lash/free play at its tightest spot. Clean the inside of the
primary and its outer cover. Inspect and replace as you see needed the outer primary cover o-
ring. Mine looked good so I just dabbed a little silicone around it and place the cover back on
the bike. Torque the cover bolts to 108 inch lbs or about 9 ft lbs.

6. Add 1 quart of primary oil to the primary thru the inspection hole.
7. Replace the inspection cover and torque those to the same torque specs as the outer primary
cover bolts. Finish off that 6-pack right about now. Now as I said I was winterizing. So I also
before all of this ran fuel stabilizer thru the gas tank for a good 5 miles prior to this service.
Then once done with all of this. I remove the spark plugs and spray a small bit of penetrating
spray lube into the cylinders. You can use a lot of different kinds from WD40 to the same lube
you use on the cables. Just a bit of something to sit on top of your piston rings during its
winter slumber. I also put the battery on a battery tender and cover the bike. If you have a lift
I suggest storing it there to keep the tires off the cold ground. In the spring, I will start the
bike. Bring it to temp. Check for leaks. Check the tire's air pressure. Take it for a small
spin around the block. Check again for leaks. If all good. Take it for a healthy ride. Once you
return and the bike cools. Replace the spark plugs. I tend to run a few tanks of gas on the
"winterized oil change" then change that oil again just as stated above. Then you and your
bike should be ready for a good riding season. I hope this helps or at least gives some
different perspective. I'm not endorsing my method over anybody else’s or any of the products
shown. I just thought it would help for all those guys that a bit scared to work on their
$30,000+ bikes. It’s simple and easy. Can be done within an afternoon even with beverage
breaks and done with a normal set of tools.