NATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS d hammer tightiwithygnre@pe lide few with the pilPopoRenaRagiine 12 jhtness alter the fist few hours of operation following os A Zxtanison wrenchfurnisned wh 19 pu sembly: NOTE: Screw. the valve ‘suction line and discharge open.to by-pass lin VALVE COVER PLUG AND PACKING — Clean and coat the tapered portion of the valve cover plug with the same heavy duty lead base compound used on the valve cover threads. Inspect the valve cover packing and carefully clean ‘and coat the shoulder in the cylinder above the packing before installing the plug. This is necessary to prevent cocking of the plug and allows a full metal-to-metat lock up of the cover. VALVE GUIDE BUSHING — I will cause Increased valve we Ingert together in a vise. The in washers. pect the Insert in the upper valve stem guide and repli . The old Insert may be cut out and a new insert inst rt can also be screwed into the holder using a 1-1 Itvisibly worn, A worn insert by pressing the holder ang x6" long screw, nut, and flat VALVES AND SEATS — Check the valves and seats for wear. Replace cut or worn discs. Replace the valve locks it loose or worn. Make sure the snap ring holding the lock is properly positioned and both halves of the lock are in place. PISTON HUB SEAL —This is a compression seal, iting against the flange and radius on the piston rod, and must not _ be altered oF damaged, Make sure the seal n the piston hub Is correcctly placed in the groove ~ "ston AOD LOCK NUT — Replace the platon rod lock nut If thas been damaged or corroded, oi the locking tber has lost ts abillty £0 effectively grip the treads, Any nut that has been used three times should be replaced. MONTHLY 1 CROSS STRAINER — The optional National discharge strainer cross Incorporates a strainer pipe which should be checked and leaned at least once a month. POWER END LUBRICATION — Drain and clean the power end oil sump and the settling tank under the crossheads: ‘every six months. Reflll with the proper grade of EP gear oll [STUDS AND NUTS — Check all of the fluid cylinder studs and nuts for tightness, including the valve cover bolt on ings, cylinder to frame studs, liner pilot bushings studs, and dishcarge to suction studs. GASKETS AND SEALS — Inspect the power end for badly leaking gaskets or loose cap screws: replace as required. LUBRICATION SYSTEM MAGNETS — Clean the two magnets in the upper lube troughs and the drain plug magnets at ‘very oll change. LUBRICATION SYSTEM TROUGH FASTENERS — Check tightness of the screws which hold the lube oll troughs and “gear oll wiper arms in position. YEARLY Its recommended that the pump be given an inspection every two or three years, checking for !oo connecting rod, pinion, and crosshead pin bearings, as well as the crosshead ways. If looseness is found, the pump should be given a mor: svorough inspection »nd corrective measures taken. sarNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS STORAGE POWER END — If the pump is to be idle for longer than one we cylinder end of the pump and blocking it up 80 that the pump slopes downward toward the power end. Then drain ang the main sump and settling tank. Leave the main sump drain plug out and install a 90° elbow. Point the elbow down and cover the opening with a wire mesh screen. This will permit air circulation and prevent condensation build: up. Coat all bearings, finished surfaces, and the entire Inside surface of the power end with a rust inhibiting oil pistons, piston rods and liners. Clear fluid cylinder nd parts, with a rust Inhibiting oll. Clean the liner spray system.and ‘settling tank. Put clean oil into the liner spray pump to prevent rusting. Coat the tank and inner spray parts with a rust inhibiting oil. PERIODIC INSPECTION — Inspect the pump and rotat ch month, Recoat with a rust inhibiting oil, the gears onc START-UP AFTER STORAGE ter fled use or as shipped from the plant, will need an Inspection to make ‘Any pump that has been in storage, either 0. Fallure to observe the following sure it has not been damaged in any way and that all parts are properly in pl points can result in serious damage. POWER END — Remove all of the covers on both the power end and the fluid end. Clean and inspect all of the parts, land the finished surfaces. Check all of the bearings to make certain they are clean and in good condition. Fill the ower end to the proper level. Use a clean EP gear oll of the proper viscosity. Make aure oil is poured into the oi distribution trough and crosshead reservoir and Is worked Into all of the bearing FLUID END — The valves, pistons, liners and all fluid end parts must be properly installed and in good condition. Carefully tighten all of the bolts, nuts, studs and working connections. Fill the liner spray sytem with a clean coolant. PAGE? aNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS DISASSEMBLY — FLUID END CYLINDER, SUCTION CYLINDER MODULE / DISCHARGE MODULE — The suction module portion of the two-piece cylinder modules may be removed without disturbing the discharge module. It is only necessary to remove the cap screws ‘connecting to the suction manifold and the nuts trom the six studs holding It to the discharge module. The discharge ‘module portion of the two-piece cylinder module may also be removed without disturbing the adjacent modules. First, remove the suction module, the liner piston, liner pilot bushing and sllde the appropriate discharge connectors clear from the adjacent module. Remove the nuts holding the discharge module to the frame and slide it out over the suction manifold SUCTION MANIFOLD — It Is not necessary to remove the suction manifold except for replacement of the manifold, Flemove the cap screws connecting the manifold to the cylinder modules and replace with the new manifold. Its. good practice to also replace the seals when replacing the manifold or cylinder modules. PISTONS AND LINERS RELIEVE PRESSURE — Close the shutoff valves-in the suction and discharge lines and open the by; ‘mud tanks before attempting any work on the fluid cylinder, liners, pistons or valves. This relleves the pressure in the cylinder and eliminates the danger of opening a valve cover, or removing a liner clamp, while the part is still under load. ‘TURNING PUMP — Rota! provided for the end of the pinion shat the pump to place the piston rod at the rear stroke position. An extension and adaptor is, lowing the pump to be easily rotated with a suitable pipe wrench, LINER SPRAY MANIFOLD — Disconnect the lin nozzles and clean If required. Spray manifold and remove it from the liner. Inspect the spray ROD AND LINER CLAMPS — The two rod clamps are identical and may be removed with ordinary wrenches. Use the ong and short tee handle wrenches furnished for the liner clamp to facilitate handling and slide It back over the lin ;thout disturbing stroke position. Remove the subrod and pry the piston rod and piston cut of the liner. PISTON AND LINER REMOVAL AS A UNIT — Remove the forward rod clamp and the liner clamp. Rotate the pump to place the intermediate rod in the rear position. Then move the liner back out of the liner pilot bushing with a pry bar 3 a8 an assembly, up and out of the liner chamber PISTON CUPS — It is possibie to change the piston cup without removing the hub {rom the rod. Remove the snap ring In the front of the hub and the end plate to permit removal of the piston cup. PISTONS / PISTON HUB SEAL — The complete piston is changed by removing the nut and sliding the straight bore hhub off the rod. A pressure actuated sea! fits in a counterbore in the hub and seals against the radius and shoulder on the rod. Do not alter or damage this seal. LINER PILOT BUSHING — The nuts holding the liner pilot bushing in place are readily accessible after the liner has been removed. The pilot bushing removal tool, furnished with the pump, has instructions attached. it clamps to the pilot bushing in place of the liner and uses the piston rod and a piston hub to pull the bushing. The pulling force ‘developed by turning the pinion shaft by hand. LINER SEALING FACE WEAR PLATE — The wear plate is retained by the liner pilot bushing. it contains two drilled land tapped holes to facilitate handling and removal. Removal of the wear plate also exposes the wear plate seal. PAGES sarNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS VALVES AND SEATS VALVE COVER — Remove a valve cover by first loosening the nut on the cover locking screw. Loosen the nut at four turns, Then free the locking screw by tapping It down, The locking wedges may then be loosened by tapping each ‘one with a bar placed in each of the six holes provided in the cover screw. A properly sized and heat treated bar is Provided for this purpose. The cover screw can then be removed. Leave the wedge assembly in place on the cover ‘screw unless replacement is required. LOCKING SCREW AND WEDGE ASSEMBLY — The taper locking wedges are a matched assembly and are to be kept together as a unit. The retaining spring will keep them in place on the cover until the locking screw Is removed. The locking screw may be removed by pushing the squared portion thru the wedges. COVER PLUG PACKING / VALVE STEM GUIDE — Remove the valve cover plug using the special wrench provided. The valve cover packing may now be removed If required. The upper valve stem guide can now be removed or the insert replaced if necessary. Always use the hydraullc valve ity of cutting the fluid cylinder VALVES AND SEATS — The valve spring, valve and vaive seat can now be remover ‘seat puller furnished with the pump when pulling a valve seat. This avoids the pos with a torch, ‘SUCTION PULSATION DAMPENER DIAPHRAGM, CHECK VALVE AND RETAINER — Remove the dampener cover to replace the diaphragm when required. The check valve and sight glasses may be removed wtih the cover in place. The gaskets on either side of the diaphragm retainer plate may be reached by lifting the dampener spacer. PAGES oatNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS cYUNDER ASSEMBLY — FLUID END DISCHARGE CONNECTOR AND ADAPTER — Grease the discharge connector andlor adaptor and side the packing Into the groove on the outside dlameter. The connector adaptors are used In the center diacharge module, the drilled flange discharge connector Is used In the outside discharge module on the side facing the center module, Grease the bores in the cylinder modules and Install the connectors andior adaptors in the appropriate modules. Position the ‘adapter all the way In against the shoulder In the center module. The connector should be pushed In far enough to clear the center module at assembly. DISCHARGE MODULE TO FRAME FACE — Install the discharge module to the frame and tighten the nuts finger tight. Do not tighten securely at this time. SUCTION MODULE TO DISCHARGE MODULE — Install the discharge module to suction module seal in its Ccounterbore. Make sure the piloting dowel pins are in place in the discharge module, Slide the suction module over the studs and tighten the nuts to 300 tt &P, 8-P, and 10-P. On the 12-P tighten the nuts to 600 ft- Ips torque. Then mark the position of the nuts and tighten an additional two flats (one-third turn) past the mark. LINER SEALING FACE WEAR PLATE — install the wear plate seal in its counterbore and follow with the wear plate, LINER PILOT BUSHING — Place the liner pilot bushing over the cylinder studs and tighten against the wear plat Torque the nuts as indicated: 750 250 tribe 3P20 250 ttbs 9-100 580 ttbs. 108-130 580 ftbs, 129-160 7280 tbs TIGHTENING SUCTION MODULES TO THE SUCTION MANIFOLD — Always use new seals between the suction ‘manifold and the suction modules. Tighten the cap screws evenly to 380 ft-bs of torque. This squares and aligns the ‘modules, providing parallel surfaces between the discharge connectors. TIGHTENING CYLINDER MODULES TO FRAME FACE — Completely torque the nuts holding the discharge modules to the frame face as indicat 7-750 380 feibs 880 780 ftibs 9.100 1100 ft-lbs 10-130 1750 fb 12-160 1480 ftibe ‘Note that the suction module to suction manifold connection is tightened betore the cylinders are tightened against the frame. TIGHTENING DISCHARGE CONNECTORS — Bring the drilled flange connector in the ouitside cylinder module against the center module, trapping the packing In the groove of the connector flange next to the face of the adaptor In center cylinder module. Tighten in place, using the segmental back-up ring under the cap screwa. Use approximately 75 f.ibs of torque on these cap screws. ALWAYS TIGHTEN THE DISCHARGE CONNECTORS LAST, AFTER SECURELY TIGHTENING THE SUCTION MANIFOLD TO THE CYLINDERS AND THE CYLINDERS TO THE FRAME, AS THIS ALLOWS PROPER ALIGNMENT OF DISCHARGE CONNECTORS WITH CENTER CYLINDER MODULE. 1 In the counterbore In the outer face DISCHARGE SPACER SEAL (EXCEPT 7-P-50) — Install the discharge spac of the right and left dlecharge modules. DISCHARGE SPACER (EXCEPT 7-P-50) — Position the spacer against the outer face of the discharge module and torque the socket head cap screws to 1100 ft1bs on the &P, &P, and 10-P. On the 12-P torque to 1750 ft-lbs. The face of the spacer Is stepped so that a slight gap will remain between the spacer and cylinder at the outside edge. Make sure the spacer Is tightened evenly and is square against the cylinder. ‘i PAGE 10 sarNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS PISTONS AND LINERS. PISTONS AND PISTON RODS — Install the pistons on the piston rods. These pistons have a straight cylindrical bore land are made to shoulder on the rod. A packing Is used to seal the piston hub against the shoulder on the rod. MAKE ‘SURE THE PACKING IS POSITIONED IN THE HUB AS THE ASSEMBLY IS MADE UP AGAINST THE SHOULDER ON THE ROD. PISTON ROD LOCK NUT — Inspect the piston rod lock nut and replace if the nut shows signs of corrosion, thread damage, or the crushing effects of tightening with an improper wrench. All piston rod lock nuts require replacement p approximately three times as the locking fiber in the end of the nut foses Ite ability to grip the threads and prevent backoff. Failure to regularly replace the piston rod lock nuts can lead to damaged pistons, rods, cylinders, ete. Tighten the piston rod nut securely, using one man on a five foot extension. PISTON AND LINER ASSEMBLY — Grease the inside of the liner and the outside of the piston. install the piston in the liner 80 that the piston rod nut faces the end of the liner having the counterbore for the liner packing. Install the liner packing in the end of the liner and grease the outside of the liner. Note that grease Is recommended for the Inside of the liner and the outside of the piston. Do not use Kopr-Kote or other drill compounds on the piston. Use these compounds on the outside of the liner, clamps, etc. PISTON AND LINER INSTALLATION AS A UNIT — Coat the inside of the liner pilot bushing and the face of the cylinder with “Jet Lube Kopr-Kote” or other corrosion resistant compound. Turn the pump so that the intermediate rod ‘and subrod are in the rear position, then slide the liner and piston assembly In the pilot bushing and agai cylinder. NOTE: An extension and adaptor are provided for the end of the pinion shaft so that the pump may be. rotated with a suitable pipe wrench, LINER CLAMP — Siide the liner clamp in place over the end of the liner and clamp the liner and pilot bushing together. [reso 100 tribe 3P80 100 ft-lbs 9-100 150 ft-bs 10-130 150 ft-lbs 12-160 250 ftibs PISTON ROD CLAMP — Move the piston rod back and make it up into the intermediate rod. Pry bar stops are located. In the bottom of the liner chamber to facilitate assembly, coat the rod clamp In the same manner as the liner clams and install it on the intermediate rod connection. Tighten the two bolts evenly, alternating from one to the other, to approximately 75 ft-lbs, on the 7-P-50, 8-P-80, &-P-100, and 10-P-130. On the 12-P-160, torque to 150 fibs. PISTON ROD AND PISTON INSTALLATION WITH LINER IN PLACE — Rot the rear position with the subrod removed. Grease the piston and liner bor stops are located in the bottom of the frame to facilitate this assembly. the pump s0 the intermediate rod is in Install the piston inthe liner, Pry bar SUBROD INSTALLATION — Check the faces of the piston rod, subrod and intermediate rod for upsets, burrs, etc. Position the subrod between the intermediate rod and piston fod and rotate the pump to bring the connections together. Note that the pilot diameters on the subrod are different to prevent improper installation. PISTON ROD CLAMPS — Install the piston rod clamps and tighten the bolts evenly to approximately 75 ftibs of torque on the 7-P.50, &-P.80, ®-P-100 and 10-P-130. On the 12-P-160 torque to 150 ftibs. Coat the clamps and connections with Kopr-Kote to resist corrosion. The clamps are identical and may be installed In elther position. LINER SPRAY MANIFOLD — Drop the liner spray manifold over the piston rod and stide it over the end of the liner Connect the hose to the outlet at the bottom of the liner chamber. This Is a quick connect coupling and must be ‘snapped In place. The hose may be connected to elther side of the spray ring: always locate It go that it runs across, ‘under the piston rod to allow the spray manifold better alignment on the liner. Make sure the spray nozzles are Positioned properly for the size liner being used. Also install nozzles in the positions for the next amaller liner size one exists, PAGENATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS VALVES AND SEATS VALVE AND VALVE DISC — The vaive disc is removable and is held in place with a valve lock. Make sure the disc is securely held to the valve as a loose disc will rapidly wear and wash the valve. Replace the valve if anew diac extends ‘more than 1/16" beyond the valve or if the valve is cut. VALVE SEAT — A bottom shouldering vaive seat is used to give a seal on the tapered outside diameter as wall as control the drive In the cylinder. The taper in the cylinder and the outside of the seat must be clean, dry and free of nicks and burrs at assembly. Use the vaive seat driver provided with the pump to drive the valve seat to obtain an Initial seal To check that the valve seat Is properly seated, pour a non flamable solvent around the lip of the valve seat where it protrudes from the cylinder. The solvent should remain in the dam formed by the seat and cylinder. VALVE SPRING — Install the valve in the seat and center the valve spring on the valve. VALVE STEM GUIDE — The upper valve stem guide holder must be tightened securely Into the valve cover plug. Install ‘new valve stem guide insert when the old one is worn enough to permit 1/8" clearance between the valve stem and guide. VALVE STEM GUIDE INSERT — The old valve stem guide Insert may be cut. A new insert can be installed by pressing the insert and guide together in a vise, The insert can alsobe screwed into the holder using a 1-1/4" x 8" long screw, ‘ut, and flat washers. VALVE COVER PACKING — Grease the valve cover packing and place It in the counterbore in the cylinder. Remove dirt and junk before pushing the packing In place. Replace the packing If It Is cut or broken down at the outer edg VALVE COVER PLUG — Coat the bottom seating surface and outside of the valve cover plug with a heavy duty grade of lead base drill collar compound, such as “Jet-Lube Kopr-Kote”, a8 outlined in the section on Maintenance. Make sure the valve spring Is centered on the plug. Thoroughly coat the top tapered surtace of the plug with the same ‘compound. THREADED RING — If a new threaded bolt-on ring is being installed, tighten the nuts fastening It to the cylinder with the following torques rz) 1480 Fibs 9.100 1480 ft-lbs 107-130 1480 ft-lbs 12-160 1750 ftibe WEDGE ASSEMBLY — Loosen the cover locking screw enough to completely coat both sides of the wedge assembly, ‘a8 well as the cover locking acrew, with the same compound used on the plug. If a new spring Is to be Installed over the wedges, hold the wedges firmly and work the spring into the groove using three pry bars. Do not attempt this with the wedge adjustor screw in place; it can be installed later. WEDGE ADJUSTING SCREW — The wedge adjusting screw can be pushed through the wedge retaining spring I in place, Simply force the square portion of the screw through the wedge assembly until the tapered end of the screw contacts the tapered Inside diameter of the wedgt VALVE COVER ASSEMBLY — The wedge assembly is held to the cover screw by the cover locking-wedge adjusting ‘and nut, Set t smbly on the wedges, push down on the cover and tighten the nut on the cover locki ‘Screw hand tight. It Is important that the bottom of the wedge adjusting screw be even with the bottom of the wedg land not drawn up inside the wedges. This positions the screw to provide enough space for proper rele disassembly, a8 well as provides enough travel of the screw for proper tightening and locking of the ‘Coat the cover screw threads and the threads in the bolt-on ring on the cylinder with the heavy duty dr ound used on the other parts. install the assembly In the threaded ring and sledge the cover tight. U: through both aides of the cover screw and hammer tight with 3 or 4 solid blows of a 16 Ib. sledge. THEN tighten the nut fon the adjusting screw. Always install cover In a CLEAN valve pot. PAGE?NATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS LOCKING COVER IN PLACE — Tighten the nut on the adjusting screw with the pull of one man on the §-1/2 ft ‘extension wrench furnished with the pump. SUCTION LINE PULSATION OAMPENER RETAINER PLATE — The dampener is fitted to an adaptor that may be either welded into an existing line or be a part ‘of @ separate dampener housing. Place a gasket on each side of the diaphragm retaining plate and place on the adaptor. ‘SPACER — The dampener spacer is then placed on top of the retainer pl ‘against the retainer gasket. fe with the grooved side up and the flat side DIAPHRAGM — The diaphragm fits into the groove on the spacer with the curved portion of the diaphragm above the spacer, ‘SEALING — Apply a continuous 1/8" diameter bead of silicone rubber on the outer edge of the diaphragm after it has been positioned into the spacer. This silicone rubber Is readlly available at most hardware stores (GE Silicone Rubber ‘or Dow-Corning Silastic). Assemble the body cover within ten minutes after applying the silicone rubbe Cover — Fitt to approximat thé diaphragm andassemble the cap screws. Tighten these cap screws evenly \dampener cover ove 80 ftibs of torqu ‘SIGHT GLASSES — Install the sight glasses, one in each side of the cover. Be sure to seat the sight glass packing ‘carefully into the groove on the cover as this must be an alr tight connection. CHECK VALVE — The alr check vaive has a pipe thread and must be made up into the cover airtight. Use & good pipe thread sealant to promote sealing. PAQE 13 satNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS DISASSEMBLY — POWER END INTERMEDIATE RODS INTERMEDIATE ROD SEAL RETAINER — The intermediate rod and the intermediate rod s ‘2 unit. The three -bolts holding the inter rod seal retainer in place ar retainer from the frame. CROSSHEAD OIL SHIELD — The oll shield on the front of the crosshead is attached to the intermediate rod with two bolts. Disconnect the shield from the intermediate rod and remove the shield through the top inspection cover. The oil passage screw may also be removed and cleaned if necessary. INTERMEDIATE ROD SEAL — Loosen the crosshead intermediate rod locking bolts and remove the intermedi and seal retainer. The seal retainer can now be slipped off the rod and the seals removed. rod INTERMEDIATE ROD BAFFLE WALL — The intermediate rod battle wall plates can now be removed. This opening is large enough to permit the crossheads to be taken through the opening and removed aut of the liner chamber CROSSHEAD PINS. CROSSHEAD PIN — The crosshead pin locking bars are faced to the outside on the right and left crossheads. Remove these locks, keeping the shims intact, then rotate the pump to allow the crosshead pins to be removed. Utilize the drilled and tapped holes in the end of the pin to attach a “Jack-plate”, pulling on the pin while bumping it on the back sige. cnossHeans CROSSHEADS — The right hand and left hand crossheads may be removed out through the liner chamber it desired. With the crosshead pin lock bar removed, the center crosshead may be left on the connecting rod if the gear connec: ting rod crankshaft assembly is to be taken out. If not, the center crosshead may also be removed out of the liner chamber. First, take out the right hand crosshead pin to give access to the center crosshead pin lock. The crosshead pin bearing in the right hand connecting rod must be removed to permit the center crosshead pin to pass through the fight hand connecting rod. Remove the snap rings and fit a plate, having approximately the same outside diameter as the bearing, to the back side of the bearing and use a jack screw arrangement to pull the bearing. The center crosshead pin can now be removed and the crosshead taken out. MAIN BEARINGS BEARING SUPPORT SPACER — The main bearing retaining lock rings must be removed com, loosened and the top two cap screws taken out to free the main frame cover for removal. With the cover off, it Is possible to remove the main bearing lock bolts and the main bearing support spacer. The spacers are matched to the right and left sides of the pump and should be kept oriented accordingly along with their shims MAIN BEARING — Disconnect the lube lines, oll pickup troughs and wipers. Place cleared by removal of the main bearing support spacer. Support the gear crankshaft connecting rod assembly to remove the downward load on the main bearings. Remove the main bearing end plate and shims from the crankshaft ‘and the oil bearing support lugs. It is also necessary to provide a hydraulic jack against the ‘main bearing cage, to remove the cage and outer bearing ro spacer and must be kept together if they are to be re h roller assembly, with connections on the end of the crankshaft, to permit oll pressurization under each roller assembly as It Is removed. The Inboard roller assembly may be removed with a similar puller arrangement. iched together with the Page saNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS CRANKSHAFT — GEAR ~ CONNECTING ROD CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY — The gear-crankshatt-connecting rod assembly can be lifted out with careful handling atter the main bearings are removed. The assembly weights are as indicated: 750 3,500 Ibe 8p 80 9-100 10-130 127-160 CONNECTING ROD AND BEARINGS CONNECTING ROD AND BEARING — Do not remove the connecting rods or bearings unless they are to be If necessary, the connecting rods can be taken off by removing the retainers and sliding off over the be leaves the bearing outer race in the connecting rod. It can be removed by tapping out. The bearing can be removed from the crankshaft by pulling, or, If it Is to be replaced, It may be cut off. The center connecting rod and its bearing ‘cannot be removed until the outside rod and bearing have been removed. CROSSHEAD PIN BEARING — The crosshead pin bearings can be pulled from the connecting rod after the snap rings have been taken out. The crosshead pin bearing has its inner race shrunk on the crosshead pin and held in place with 1 snap ring. It wll be necessary to cut this race to remove It from the crosshead pin. CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR GEAR REMOVAL ANDIOR TURNING — The gear is held to the crankshaft with drive fit bolts. The gear also has a slight shrink {it to the crankshaft. The gear should not be removed unless itis to be replaced. If the gears tobe turned to use the unworn side of the teeth, it is necessary to turn the gear and crankshaft together, as a unit. The gear and pinion are not centered In the pump, which means that the pinion shaft must also be turned, PINIONS AND BEARINGS PINION SHAFT — The pinion should not be taken out unless necessary to turn the shatt or to replace a bearing. The pinion bearings are cage mounted, the outside dlameter of the lett hand cage Is smaller than the outside diameter of the right hand cage. This permits the pinion and bearings to be moved out of the frame from left to right. Remove the ring retainers and bump the shaft out. A sultable jack screw arrangement tled to the cages will assist in the removal. REMOVAL OF PINION WITH CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR IN PLACE — It is not necessary to remove the crankshaft and {gear in order to remove the pinion shatt. Removal of the bearing retainers, cage plates and bearing cages permits the pinion shaft to be disengaged trom the gear and removed from the pump. REMOVAL OF PINION BEARING WITHOUT REMOVING PINION SHAFT — A pinion bearing can be replaced without pulling the pinion shaft by removing the oll lube troughs, bearing cage plates, and retainers. Support the shatt to pre- vent it from moving and move the bearing cage In toward the pinion until it clears the bearing. Leave the cage partially ‘engaged in the bore to facilitate reassembly. Shield the interior of the pump and cut the bearing from the shaft. The ‘new Dearing may now be installed and the cage pulled back over the bearing. PINION BEARINGS — The pinion bearings can be pulled from the shaft after the assembly has been removed from the pump. The bearings are Identical, but the cages are different due to the left hand being slightly smaller than the right hand cage. Mark them to prevent error when assembled. CROSSHEAD LINERS — The crosshead liners are bolted to the main frame, They can be removed after the ‘crossheads have been taken out. Protect the shims used under the lower liner from damage and save for later use PAGE'SNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS ASSEMBLY — POWER END PINIONS AND BEARINGS BEARINGS AND CAGES — Install the pinion bearings in the pinion bearing cages and heat the bearing and cag assemblies to 300°F. These double row, spherical, self-aligning bearings are a slip fit in the cage and can be installed before the assembly is heated. Use an electric oven or oll Bath to heat the parts. Never apply direct flame to a bearing. MARK THE LEFT HAND CAGE AND RIGHT HAND CAGE FOR IDENTIFICATION AT ASSEMBLY. The left hand cage thas a slightly smaller outside diameter than the right hand cage. The bearings, howeve identical PINION SHAFT AND BEARING ASSEMBLIES — Orient the pinion shalt properly as to the left hand and right hand ‘ides. Normal installation positions the gear and pinion to the right side of center, viewed standing at the power end looking toward the fluid end. Install each pinion bearing and cage assembly on the shalt and firmly against the shoulder. MAKE SURE THE CAGES ARE INSTALLED ON THE CORRECT SIDE AND THAT THE CAGE RETAINER BOLT CIRCLE IS TO THE OUTSIDE. PINION ASSEMBLY AND FRAME — install the pinion and bearing assembly In the pump frame, passing It through the fight aide of the pump. Use the drilied and tapped holes in the cages to help pull It Into the frame. Small angle iron jolted to the cages and positioned against the bearing outer race will prevent the cage from being drawn ‘over the bearing during assembly. Make sure the oll passage holes in the cages are on the horizontal centerline and fare turned to the back to facilitate later installation of the oll troughs. INSTALLING PINION WITH CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR IN PLACE — It is possibie to install the pinion assembly with the cranksahft and gear in place, Heat the pinion bearings correctly and install each bearing on the shatt firmly against the shoulder. The pinion shatt with bearings is then placed in the pump, engaged with the gear, and supported with slings so that the bearing cages may be installed in the pump over the ends of the shaft. PINION SHAFT RETAINER AND OIL SEAL — Press the pinion bearing oll seal int ‘damage to the lip of the pinion shatt oll seal, The pinion shart oll seal has a double inward, toward the bearing. Install the retainer, with the gasket, and tighten in place. protect the seal the retainer. Use care to prevent the spring loaded lip must face over the keyway in the shaft to CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR GEAR MOUNTING — The gear is light shrink fit on the crankshaft and Is held in place with reamed fit drive bolts. Position the crankshaft vertically, supporting it underneath the gear mounting flange. Cover the gear with a flame proof cloth and warm it over a shielded fire. Normal installation positions the gear and pinion to the right of center, viewed while standing at the power end looking toward the fluid end. Make sure the gear is installed so that the apex. ff the gear teeth will be leading into the pinion as the gear rotates. Illustration on page 28 shows the correct, installation and mounting procedure. NEW GEAR — In the event that a new gear is being mounted on an old crankshatt, install the gear on the crankshaft ‘and use the holes In the crankshaft as the template for finish reaming the mounting bolt holes. Bolts with a “stepped” diameter, matching the reamed holes in the crankshaft and the drilled holes In the gear, should be made and used to ‘help In the initial alignment. Use one of these bolts on each side of the hole being reamed to assure a tight joint. CONNECTING ROD AND BEARINGS OUTER RETAINER SHIMS — The connecting rod bearings are a shrink fit on the crankshaft. Keep the bearing races together, with the outer race and its removable ring held in place. Before heating, measure the width of the bearing area in the connecting rod and subtract from the measured width of the bearing outer race to obtain the actual shim {98p. Then subtract .003" to .005" from the actual gap to obtain the required amount of shims to be used under the outer retainer at final installation. INNER RETAINER SHIMS — The width of the bearing area on the crankshaft must also be measured and subtracted from the measured width of the bearing inner race to obtain the actual shim gap under the retainer. Install this ‘measured amount, plus or minus .001", at final assembly. PAGE'S sarNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS HEATING BEARINGS — Mark the bearings and the connecting rods for position after measuring the retainer shim (gaps. Heat the bearings in an electric oven or oil bath to 200°F. Use a thermometer to prevent overheating. BEARINGS ADJACENT TO GEAR — SLIP AN OUTER ONE-PIECE CONNECTING ROD BEARING RETAINER ON THE ‘CRANKSHAFT BEFORE INSTALLING EACH BEARING. Silde the bearing on the crankshaft, with the loose ring of the ‘outer race leading. The bearings are identical in size, requiring the center bearing to be slipped over the end bearing Journal. Install the segmental retainers, without shims, to lock the bearing In place until itis cool. Then install the ‘shims and tighten the cap screws to the following torques. (Wire the cap screws in place.) 7°50 780 fhibs 380 250 ftbs 9.100 250 ttibs 107-130 380 ftps 127-160 380 fib LEFT HAND END BEARING — The connecting rod must be completely installed on the center bearing befor bearing Is placed on the crankshaft. Bolt-on retainers are used to form the shoulder for the end bearin Inner retainers, with one temporary bolt in each, to provide the shoulder when Installing the bearing. Make su ‘outer one-piece bearing retainer ring Is on the crankshaft, and then install the end bearing. Use a second temporary bolt and flat washer in each segmental retainer to lock the bearing in place untll cool. Remove the temporary bolts and assemble the retainers and shims, Torque these bolts as indicat 7.50 150 fribe P80 250 ftps 9-100 280 ftbs 10-130 380 ttbs 427-160 380 ftibs CONNECTING RODS — Heat the entire connecting rod over a shielded tlame. Support It from the crosshead pin end ‘and instal It over the connecting rod bearing. Hold the connecting rod flush with the bearing on the threaded retainer side. Lock in place with both retainers, less shims, until cool. Remove the retainers and install the shims. Tighten the connecting rod retainer bolts to 250 ft.bs of torque. (Except 7-P-50, torque to 150 ft-lbs) ‘CROSSHEAD PIN BEARING OUTER RACE AND ROLLER ASSEMBLY — The crosshead pin bearings are held in the ‘connecting rod with snap rings. Install one snap ring in the connecting rod and push the crosshead pin bearing in place against the snap ring while the connecting rod Is stll warm. Lock the bearing in with the second snap ring. (CROSSHEAD PIN BEARING INNER RACE — Each bearing has its own Inner race that Is a shrink fiton the crosshead pin, Mark the inner race for position and heat to 300°F in an electric oven or oil bath. Use a thermometer to prevent ‘overheating. Place the Inner races on the crosshead pins and lock in place with the snap rings. CROSSHEAD LINERS. ‘CROSSHEAD LINERS — The crosshead liners are bolted into the main frame. Special the heads of the bottom cap screws to seal and prevent oll tighten securely. Use micrometers and measure the Inside diame ‘crosshead position. Subtract the outside diameter of th ling washers are used under In the frame, without shims, and tlon. Tighten the liner securely and measure the Inside diameter between the two liners. Subtract tne diame! 1nce between the top of the 0.015". f the clearance exceeds this amount, add shims under the upper ke a final check of the clearance with the crosshead in the pump. Use a rance In several places. Correct clearance Is between .010" to .018". Mark the crossheads as to position to Insure proper clearance after final assembly. PAGE'T sotNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS CRANKSHAFT — GEAR — CONNECTING ROD CENTER CROSSHEAD — Asemble the center crosshead to the connecting rod before installing in the pump, The center and right hand crossheads are identical. MAKE SURE THE CROSSHEAD INSTALLED IS THE ONE PREVIOUSLY USED WHEN THE CENTER CROSSHEAD LINER CLEARANCE WAS ESTABLISHED. Push the ‘crosshead pin through the crosshead and pin bearing. The pins a close fit in the bearing; however, it must not bind on. the bearing. CENTER CROSSHEAD PIN LOCK ADJUSTMENT — Bolt the locking bar to the crosshead pin. This requires special self-locking place bolts. Do not substitute. Tighten the bolts to 210 ft.ibs of torque. Tighten the locking bar to the ‘crosshead with 75 ft1bs of torque on the 7-P-50 and &-P.80. On the 9-P-100, 10:P-130 and 12-P-180 torque fo 100 ftbs. ‘These screws are special Grade 5 screws. Do not substitute. Bump the pin with a bar to seat it on the taper. Retighten the two Grade 5 cap screws to 75 ft-lbs of torque on the 7-P-50 and 8-P-80. On the -P-100, 10-P-130 and 12:P-160 torque ‘to 100 ft1bs. Then measure the shim gap between the locking bar and the crosshead. Assemble the measured amount of shims for each cap screw and mark both the shims and locking bar for position. These shims will be installed after the assembly isin the pump. Remove the lacking bar from the crosshead and pin, LEAVE THE PIN AND CROSSHEAD. IN PLACE ON THE CONNECTING ROD, There is sufficient clearance in the frame to pass the crosshead and pln, but ‘not the locking bar. INSTALLING IN FRAME — Pick the assembly up and inst place In the frame and the connecting rods can be guided In as the assembly ‘centered in the main bearing bores. Insert hydraulic jacks between the main b be spread slightly when the main bearing cage is installed. II In the frame, The left and right crossheads may be in lowered In place, Hold the assembly ring support lugs 80 the opening may TYPE OF BEARING — These bearings are double row, tapered roller bearings. They are match marked on the outer ‘edges of the cup and the outer edges of the cones to indicate the correct installation position. A spacer ring is used between the two cone and roll 1c@ without the use of shims. note of the MAIN BEARING END PLATE SHIMS — Measure the distance from the end of the crankshatt to the bearing stop ‘shoulder on the shaft. Measure the distance through the two cone and roller assemblies with the bearing cone spacer distance measured on the shaft from the distance measured through the bearing roller and ymble shims equal to this subtracted value LESS .003" to .008". Keep this shim pack together smbly on the proper side with the proper bearing. COIL RETAINER — Place the main bearing oll retainer over the end of the crankshaft, Make sure the offset inside dlameter Is toward the connecting rod, leaving the bolt circle nearest the bearing. INNER CONE ANO ROLLER ASSEMBLY — Heat the cone and roller assemblies in an electric oven or oll bath to 300°. Use a thermometer to prevent overheating. Install the cone and roller assembly having'the correct match mark {38 related to the outer race position In the cage over the end of the crankshaft and firmly against the shoulder. Make ‘sure the larger ends of the rollers are next to the shoulder on the crankshaft. CAGE — Use the hydraulic jack placed between the main bearing support lugs to open the main bearing bore slightly. Install the main bearing cage In the frame and against the inner cone and roller assembly. CAUTION: SPREAD THE OPENING IN THE FRAME JUST ENOUGH TO ALLOW THE CAGE TO ENTER. 00 NOT OVEREXTEND AS THE FRAME MUST CLOSE UP METAL-TO-METAL ON THE CAGE WHEN THE JACK IS REMOVED: Install the cage with the ‘shoulder leading and position the 3/8” pipe tapped hole near the top. ‘SPACER AND OUTER CONE AND ROLLER ASSEMBLY — Place the bearing spacer against the inner cone and roller ‘assembly and install the outer cone and rol ‘ends of the rollers next to the spacer. PAGE'S satNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS END PLATE AND SHIMS — Lock the bearing on the crankshaft with the « ining plate and shims previously assembied. Tighten the cap screws to the following torques. Recheck the tora 9 bearings have cooled and wire 7°50 378 ftps 8P80 580 fib 9-100 780 tips 107-130 1100 fips 12-160 1400 ft-lbs LOCK RING — Leave the jacks in place between the support spacer lugs and assemble the main bearing lock ring to the cage. Turn the cage and lock ring in the frame until the holes in the lock ring line up with the tapped holes in the frame. Be sure the cage Is positioned with the 3/8" pipe tap for the lubrication line up and slightly back of center. This drilled and tapped jack-out hole on each side of the main bearing support opening. ‘CENTER IN PUMP — Us: Cf each cage contacts the bearing outer ra @ jack-out holes in the lock ring to pull both cages out from the frame until the shoulder ‘Shift the entire crankshaft assembly in the frame until the measured {9p on both sides is even within 1/32". NOTE: IT IS NECESSARY TO MOVE THE PINION SHAFT TOGETHER WITH ‘THE CRANKSHAFT TO PREVENT BINDING. Leave the pinion bearing cages bolted to the frame, The pinion bearings {are a sliding fit in the cage and can be moved by bumping on the end of the pinion shaft. LOCK RING SHIMS — Make sure the cage shoulders are lightly contacting the main bearing outer races, then remove the jack-out screws. Remove the hydraulic jacks used to open the main frame bore. Measure the gap between the ‘main bearing lock ring and the side of the support plate. Install the measured amount of shims under each lock ring ‘and assemble loosely to the pump. The lock ring is given a tinal tightening after the main cover is in plac OIL RETAINER — Assemble the mai 10 28 ftlbs of torqu ring oll retainer to the cage. U the special place bolts provided and tighten MAIN BEARING SUPPORT SPACER — Assemble the main bearing support spacers loosely into the pump. Insert ‘shims at one end of the spacer to obtain a .003" to .005” gap between the spacer and the frame. Tighten the nut on the ‘main bearing spacer bolt until the spacer touches the frame metal-to-metal. Check this by tapping the spacer lightly with @ hammer. Then mark the position of the ut and tighten the nut an additional two flats (one-third turn). Use a 10015" feeier and check to make sure the bearing cage is tight In the frame, OIL. TROUGH AND WIPERS — Install the crosshead oll reservoir wipers on 1182" of the side of the gear. Bolt the upper oll troughs and cage side plates t ‘pers and adjust to within 1/32" of 9. Adjust to within 19 cages and connect MAIN COVER AND LOCK RINGS — Place the main frame cover gasket on the frame. Use a strip of 3/16" thick by 2” wide closed cell neoprene sponge gasket to bridge the distance ich main bearing support spacer. Cut a hole In each end of the sponge and push on the first cover stud at 9 Allow the ‘sponge strip to extend over the outer edge of the pump frame approxim 5 of the sponge lightly with Permatex and cover with the end of the cork:neoprene cover gasket. Also use Permatex lightly to seal the butt joints of the cork-neoprene gasket. Tighten the cover in place and install the rémaining cap screws connecting the main bearing lock ring to the cover. Tighten the cap screws in the lock ring to the following torques. The end cap ‘may now be installed to complete the assembly. 7.50 150 thibs aPa0 250 ftps 9-100 375 ttibs 10-130 $580 fib 12-180 580 ftibs Page 19 ‘s8tNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS ‘CROSSHEAD CENTER PIN LOCKING BAR — The center crosshead pin locking bar is installed after the gear-crankshaft-connecting od assembly is fixed In the frame. NOTE: The center crosshead was previously mounted on the connecting rod and the pin locking bar shims and position were set before the assembly was placed in the frame. This procedure is ‘outlined on page 18, To complete the assembly, install the shims and tighten the place bolts holding the bar to the pin with 210 ftbs of torque. Tighten the Grade 5 cap screws locking the bar to the crosshead with 250 ft-lbs of torque. LEFT AND RIGHT CROSSHEAD PINS — The left and right crosshead pins are installed in the same manner as the center crosshead pin. install the pin in the crosshead and bolt the lock to the pin with the special place bolts provided, Tighten to 210 ft-lbs of torque. Tighten the Grade 5 cap screws holding the bar to the crosshead with 100 ttbs of torque on the 8-P-100, 10-P-130 and 12-P-160, and 75 ft-lbs on the 7-P-80 and &-P-80. Bump the pin to make sure itis ‘Seated In the crosshead and retighten to 100 tt-ibs of toruge on the 9-P-100, 10-P-130 and 12-P-160, and 75 ft-lbs on the 7-P-80 and &-P-80. MEASURE THE SHIM GAP BETWEEN THE BAR AND CROSSHEAD. Assemble the measured ‘amount of shims and then tighten the Grade § cap screws to a final torque of 250 ftibs, INTERMEDIATE RODS. Place the intermediate rod oll seals in the retainer. Two seals are used with their sealing lips facing the fluid end; the remaining seals are turned to face the power end. Spacers are used ‘Make sure the notch or gap in the spacers is installed at the bottom, with the drilled hole at the top. land cap screws. Slide the retainer and seal assembly on the INTERMEDIATE ROD AND SEAL RETAINER Intermediate rod. INTERMEDIATE ROD AND BAFFLE — Bolt the intermediate rod baffle wall plates to the frame. Install the Intermediate rods in the crossheads and bump tight against the face of the crosshead. Tighten the lock screws on the crosshead with the following torques: 7.50 250 tribe 550 ttt 750 ftbs 1000 ftbs. 3000 ft1bs CROSSHEAD OIL SHIELD — Position the crosshead oll shield down through the Inspection cover above the crossheads. Clamp the oll shield onto the intermediate rod in an upright position next to the crosshead. The ol shield prevents excessive oll trom splashing onto the intermediate rod. The intermediate rod Is lubricated from a reservoir in the oil shield through the hole drilled in the 2/8" dlameter extension screw. ‘SEAL RETAINER — Slide the Intermediate rod seal retain Jock in place, Make sure the retainer is positioned with In place against the battle wall and tighten the J-bolts to ence to the TOP marked on the retainer. PAGE 20 saNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS TROUBLESHOOTING KNOCKING — FLUID END CAUSES 1. Improper precharge or operation of discharge or suction pulsation dampeners: Keep discharge dampe precharged with nitrogen to 400 to 650 pal. Check operational level of suction dampener diaphragm. valve seats, washed out valves or seats, valves cocked in seats: Check for loose seats by pulling up ly on bottom of seat with an opened jawed pipe wrench. Examine vaives for uneven wear, tluld cuts, and loose snap rings and valve discs. 3. Loose piston hub: Check piston nut for proper tightness. fessure in the suction manifold should be between 20 and 50 psi with 4, Charging pump output too low: Charge the slush pump operating. 5. Charging pump packing loose or worn out permitting air to be drawn into suction: While running the charge and ‘slush pumps, hose water over the packing area. If knocking stops adjust or replace packing, 6. Restriction in suction line or plugged suction line strainer if one is used). 7. Air or gas in mud: Examine mud pits for excessive bubbles. Check that mud return lines terminate below mud level. Check degassing equipment. 8. Loose or worn piston rod clamps: The two clamp faces must never meet metal to metal. There should be no ‘lative movernent between rod and clamp. 9. Discharge cross strainer pluged with trash preventing proper operation of discharge dampener. 10. Swollen valve stem guide inserts causing valves to stick. NOTE: Most pump knocking problems are fluid end related. All checks upon the fluid end of the pump should be performed before investigating the power end. KNOCKING — POWER END CAUSES 1. Loose crosshead pin: Remove outer two screws in retainer bar and bump pin lightly. If pin moves easily In ‘crosshead, retorque and shim. 2. Upset on crosshead liner nce (over .018") in crosshead or connecting rod bearing. Ce between crosshead and liner (should measure 010" to 015"). smbly to float sideway 5. Main bearing not shouldered against Its cage. This could permit erankshatt a Gear to strike oll wipers. 6. Deformation on a gear or pinion tooth: Examine face of teeth and file down any upsets. VIBRATION 1, Unbalanced drive sprockets or sheaves. 2. Slack drive chains or belts. 3. Inadequate pump support. PAGED atNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS Drive chains composed of both new and old sections. 5. Motors not aynchronizd on a dual, shunt wound, 0.6, motor dive: To check isolate one motor by dlaconnecting ——k ane drive chain and operating pump with other motor. APIO PISTON AND LINER WEAR 1. Insutfciant coolant sprayed into liner causing overheating: Check spray manifold nozzies for plugging. 2. Coolant too hot (over 110°F}: water system. 0 2 larger coolant sump or heat exchanger or switch to a non-recirculating clean 3. Coolant contaminated with trash and mud. 4. Mud has high concentration of sand, solids, or tungsten carbide particles: Gi bores. Check de-sanders and jet mud tanks ‘5. Cll base muds can deteriorate piston cups and valve discs If aniline point of oll is less than 150 6 Corrosive muds attack liners. The mud pH should be above 8.5. Use premium liners with corrosive muds. 7. Hydrogen sulfide attacks piston cups. LINER DIFFICULT TO INSTALL IN LINER BUSHING 1. Paint on the two piloting diameters of the liner: Remove paint with emery cloth. 002". Use a criss: 2. Liner bushing “egg-shaped” from improper torquing up of studs: The wear plate protrudi Crossing stud torquing procedure so that the bushing is not deformed due to the .002" ridge 3. Burr on piloting diameters inside liner bushing. 4 NOTE: Always coat the liner piloting diameters with drill collar compound before installation. Pace 22 sarNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST NATIONAL “P" SERIES SLUSH PUMPS LUBRICATION SCHEDULE cx racouency Sou re proceoune Day a AGMA EP Gear Lubricant’ Check oil lavel with pump treat Daity NLGI No. 1 Multipurpose ‘Two strokes of hand greso- Uthium base grease gun Daly a 50% water + 50% water ‘Check ftuld level in sump soluble ot She Months a AGMAEPGearLubricant"* Change olandcleanoilaump *Surrounding Aic Temperature Lubricant Selection. SO*F. ( 10°C.) to 185*F. (68°C) — AGMA Mild EP 47 Viscosity 414-508 CST @ 100°F. (38°C.) 20°F. (- 7°) to 100°F. (38°C) — AGMA Mild EP #6 Viscosity 268-352 CST @ 100°F. (38°C) “20°F. (-2°C.) to GOFF. (16°C.) — AGMA Mild EP #2 Viacosity 61- 75 CST @ 100°F. (98°C.) “Ol Capacities — 1-50 — TOUS. Gal P80 — 85 US. Gal 9P-100 — 95 US Gal, 107-190 — 90S. Gal 12-6-180 — 130US. Gal. IADC APPROVED FORMAT O (285 Liters) (822 Liters) (360 Liters) (341 Liters) (492 Liters) National Supply Company bain of Ameoine. Houston, Texas 7027 PAGE 23 satNATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST NATIONAL “P” SERIES SLUSH PUMPS OPERATING MAINTENANCE retouency Faint PROCEDURE Dally @ _dserve tne consttion of tiers and pistons, they should be run until uid Bypass is valle on aach stroke of bacomes excessive Daily ® Caan iiner chambers as required. Daily @ Clean and refit sump ater excessive contamination. Daily @ Check tinar manifold wing nuts for tightness and be sure spray nozzles are not clogged Daily @ _ Check dampaner for proper charge. Instructions are in Service Manual {ind'on dampener next to sightgass Weekly @ Glan bath sides of locking wedges and cost with a heavy duty lead base thread compound. Weekly @ Clean and coat the tapered portion ofthe plug withthe same thread com- pound used on locking wedges. Inspect the packing, clean and coat the Evlinder belore remataliation. Weekly @ _inapect the insert in the upper valve stem guide end repiace if worn. Woekly @ Check valves and seats for wear. Replace cut or wom diacs and vaive focks If loose oF worn. Weekly ® Replace piston rod lock nut If thas bean damaged. corroded oritlocking fiber haa oat ts efeciveness. Any nut used vee times should be replaced, Two Weeks @)_—_—_-Remove covers and clean threads on cover scraw and in bolt en ring Cont the threads with heavy duty lad base thread compound, Monthiy @ Check al ovinder studs and nuts for tightness, Monthly @ Remove and clean strainer from discharge cross. Monthiy @ Check condition of intermediate rod wipers, replace if worn. Sie Months @_—_—_Claan magnet on drain plug during oil change. Six Months @@_—_—_Cean magnets in oll rough-access through inspection cover. Six Monts @_—_—_Cean oll sump during regular oll change. PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES Do not overtighten piston rod nuts. Sutticient torque is provided by one man on § foot cheater. COvertightening drive belts or chains can cause damage to pump pinion shatt or bearings. Follow manufacturers recommendations for tightness. ARwgd National Supply Company SimnonetAmet ne IADC APPROVED FORMAT sree] To 77027 Page 2 saNATIONAL ‘TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS. {neuer vauve ‘eee sur Tion Line PuLEaTiON OAMPENER ae ree Se cross Ps Love mows 9 eu. \ ewwNATIONAL _ TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS ato Tate J metoce vawve Pearcy now RESTRICTING. FULL OPEN (DP Gateonaurtearcyvauve scronumerusronoueecn oe paces [7 tonemsousae xe NATURAL SUCTION OPERATION DUAL SUCTION SYSTEM for NATURAL OR CHARGED OPERATION ‘FRONT INLETNATIONAL * *, a, vy, °, , °°, Me Ne, xo, to, Ne yo me TOME ~S Se No, — <7, WIS | IXY, TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS a=. DISCHARGE SYSTEM FOR DUAL PUMP INSTALLATION — =NATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMP TYPE 9-P-100 (6% x9") EFFECTIVE JULY, 1976 ‘Supersedes February, 1971 —)__—_National Supply Compan: ARM oncery amet cen cessor tee e \V sss west Loop South, Houston, Texas 770272 121 108 m 16 120 125 0 u 124 M5 M314 147-118 122-123-126 134 tho 14 130133 139143 138142. 137 14) 147148 150 149 157 155 152 SECTION THRU POWER END a @ 00 I-d-6 3dAL-SdWNd HSN1S XSL IWNOILVN @NATIONAL TRIPLEX SLUSH PUMPS-TYPE 9-P-100 3 SECTION THRU POWER END ium | ba eS No No | No tion a tor | 1293136 | CRANKSHAFT AND GEAR SUB-ASSEMBLY. Hi ‘Composed of 11293005 CRANKSHAFT 12 = 188006 BOLT, Crankshaft Gear 1 = 1233008 GEAR, Crantahat 12 = 410140 NUT, H°— SUNC elo No, SIFA-1409 oo | 193072 | WIPER. Lett Hand Gear Oi) 1 {93073 | WIPER, Right Hand Gear Of : t vos | sStoogo | NUT, W'-16 Fealoc No. Z0FA-8i8 5 4 Hoe | Toot] SCREW. Hx 4" Grade 5 Cadman aed Hex Hickd Cap ‘ 10s | 7400024 '| WASHER, WN Type AcsI2O.D.....- : 3 tos | [issoe | BRACE. Lube OU Trou 1 ior | moow | SCREW, wrx " Dried Hex Head Ca 4 os | {293070 | TROUGH, Pinion Bearing Lube Oil — 1 {93071 | TROUGH: Pinion Bearing Lube Oll — Right Hi t top | 1281093 | COVER, Inspection... 2 Mio | 1291084 | GASKET, Teupection Cover. 3 Ut | 7000803-11] | SCREW, iA" I” Grade 5 Cadinium Plated Hiex Head Cap « 2% 1a | dentasz "| WASHER, ‘A L0e2"0.D. Cadmium Plated 20 us | faisos? | PLUG, M313 Magnetic Post». 2 tla | @300108 | NUT, i¢¢ Cadmium Plated Hex. oo. 4 US | 762100 | WASHER, 4°N Type A 131 ia Mig | 76is0s8 | WASHER, 4 Cadmium Plated Regular Spring Lock ue 17 | (233085 | GASKET, Mi 1 te | 9302 | WIPER, Geat and 1 WIPER Gea 1 us SCREW, 1 ‘ 9 NUT, W216 Flesloc No, 20FAS16 ‘ 1 WASHER, ¥°N Type A O12" O. a ta TROUGH, Crombead Lube Ol — Let Hand 1 3 COVER, Wrench Hole — Left and Right Hand Sides « 2 COVER: Wrench Hole — Cem « i 124 GASKET, Wrench Hole Cover ~ 3 5 SCREW, Kv x |" Grade § Cadmium Pinied Hex Head C * ir CAP, Donaldion No. $183 Breather 1 i SCREW. TH" = 123 3H, Grade SH Head Cap 00000020000 ‘ rr OVER: Tap Croubead acces - 3 139 GASKET, Top Crouhead Acces Cover 3 0 SCREW, 7x I" Grade $ Cadmium Pied Hien Head & % Bt SHIELD, Imermediate Rod OW 3 13 SCREW, 14 ie Gade 3 Cais Fit ie ed Ca ‘ 33 WASHER. WEN Type 4.0635. O.D. Cadmium Pate. a be NUT, 4" Flenloe Nor 207-420 ..». ‘ 3 SCREW, Oil Passage. es 5 Be NUT, 4? Hex Jem 3 a PLATE, Intermediate Rod Oil Wiper Retainer 22000...) 3 3 GASKET, Imermedite Rod Oil Wiper Retanet Plat 3 Be SCREW, Kx 7 Orede § Cadmium Pated Het Head C a 140 i iat ered 5 1a IN. x TA" ANSI Type C Grooved 5 13 GASKET. Inermedite Rod Oil Wipet 3 tae BOLT, Wiper Retainer Hook, 3 is FITTING, M4" Alemite No, 3 14s | 708062 | FITTING. 4° x 43° Aleit 3 | fasstea | WIPER Catered Rod Ol a Mae | 1353083 | ROD, terermedite 5 149 | ckzo008 | ELBOW, 90° x I" ‘ 150 | faissss | HOSE ASSEMBLY, 1" x 24" Loog - 3 rt 90 | PLATE, Clean-Out } 132 GASKET, Cleen-Oui 2 133 SCREW, rn 1M Grade g a BUSHING, 2° x1" Standard CL Hex... 7 135 PLUG, I Lisle No. PM-313 Magnetic Pout 1 rt PLATE COMPLETE, Oil Level 1 37 GASKET, Oil Level Dipstict Plate ae 1 ia SCREW, x1" Grade $ Cadmium Piaied tex Head Cap 8 is WASHER, Parker No. 60-0101-H" Sut-O>Seal a DIPSTICK, Oil Level