1

Culinary Adventure: A taste of Al Muharraq Souq

Malak Alsaleh – F2300098

Fayzah Salman Bindaineh – F2300172
Nawraa Yusuf Ali – F2300111

Group 1E

American University of Bahrain

ANTH 152 – Introduction to Cultural Anthropology
Instructor: Dr Natalia Skvortsova
Due date: December 17th, 2023
 2

Culinary Adventure: taste of Al Muharraq Souq

Abstract

This research investigates the preservation of Bahraini culinary heritage at Al

Muharraq Souq by addressing the question: What traditional and authentic food does Al
Muharraq souq offer that contributes to the preservation of the Bahraini culinary heritage?
Utilizing qualitative methods, including participant observation and in-depth informal
conversations, two key food shops, Shwaiter Sweets and Murooj Al Muharraq, were
examined. Findings reveal that Murooj Al Muharraq Sweets, established in 1982, plays a
crucial role in preserving Bahraini traditions by offering popular dishes like Mattai and
Zalabia. Shwaiter Sweets on the other hand, established in 1850, is a shop that represents
Bahrain's culinary traditions through its century-long commitment to making sweets, notably
Halwa. With a lively atmosphere and a blend of traditional and modern presentations,
Shwaiter Sweets appeals to embody and show the charm of Bahrain's heritage. Both shops
strategically combine traditional and modern elements, catering to a diverse clients and
reflecting Bahrain's cultural richness.

Keywords: Al Muharraq Souq, Shwaiter Sweets, Murooj Al Muharraq, Halwa,

Mattai, Qahwa, Zalabia.

_________________________________________________________________________

Introduction

Imagine a marketplace where time-honoured traditions delve through the air

and portrayed by the food. In the heart of Muharraq Souq, we dig deep into the secrets of the
Bahraini culinary heritage, exploring the flavours that defines Bahrain.

Muharraq city with its strategic location played an important role for regional trade
and commerce. In the 19th century, Muharraq was considered as Bahrain’s capital city and is
the third largest city in Bahrain [1]. Till this day, Muharraq had kept its importance of trade
and its beautiful architecture which can be seen in its Souq. AL Muharraq Souq is the second
largest Souq in Bahrain after Al Manama Souq. It is a multi-shop Souq that contains various
types of shops which covers all daily life needs from food, clothing’s, jewellery and much
more. It Is located at the heart of Muharraq city as per the name implies, at the southwest tip
of Bahrain’s island. This Souq is known for its old traditional Bahraini bazaar that diverge
with its authenticity, vibrancy, architecture, and traditional importance [2]. Souq AL
Muharraq also contains a sub-section of it called Souq Al Qaisariya which is in the southern
end of Al Muharraq Souq. Souq Al Qaisariya is what makes Souq al Muharraq stand out
from any other Souqs in Bahrain, as it contains beautiful old Bahraini architecture along with
a heritage pathway which is famous for selling natural pearls (The pearl pathway). As of
2012, the UNESCO declared Souq al Muharraq specifically Souq al Qaisariya as a world
heritage site, this makes Souq al Muharraq contain a more historic take in relation to the other
Souqs [3]. Al Muharraq Souq as mentioned is a bazaar that contains various shops. However,
what further distinguishes Al Muharraq Souq from any other Souq is the various traditional
food places which sell and offer old traditional Bahraini heritage food and snacks. As
traditional food is a crucial factor of any tradition especially the Bahraini tradition, we
believe that food is a pathway that leads to the roots of a country’s heritage, thus the
 3

importance of this exploration. We think of Food as a medium to the discovery of all

countries and that it could speak on behalf of a country’s tradition as Deborah Cater said “you
have to taste a culture to understand it” [4] thus, the focus of this paper would be to discover
traditional and authentic food shops in Al Muharraq Souq so, what traditional and authentic
food does Al Muharraq Souq offer that contributes to the preservation of the Bahraini
culinary heritage? This is the research question that this paper is going to tackle.

We think that Al Muharraq Souq does not only reflect the cultural richness of Bahrain
but is also a central role in preserving the culinary heritage and traditions. This research is
important as food is a powerful cultural symbol, and by exploring the flavours and recipes of
traditional dishes, the research contributes to the preservation and understanding of Bahraini
traditions, it is also important as it sheds light on the historical significance of food
specifically the traditional Bahraini food and their impact on both the locals and the visitors.

Data Sources and Methods

This research is a qualitative research as direct observations of the Souq were

employed to delve deeper into the Bahraini traditional cuisine. Convenience sampling
strategy was adopted as over a period of three weeks, we engaged in a participant
observation, immersing ourselves within the Souq to have a thorough understanding of it.
Observations specifically took place at two food shops (Shwaiter sweets and Murooj al
Muharraq) that were purposely selected for a detailed examination as per their great impact
within the Souq. Further, direct informal conversations with both the vendors and the
customers were also employed to gain a deeper insight. Moreover, this research will focus on
4 main dishes that directly show the Bahraini heritage and that were sold in the two shops
chosen (two dishes from each shop). The food dishes would further be evaluated as each dish
was ordered by the researchers and evaluated by them, evaluations from other customers
would also be considered. Field notes was gathered to capture the insights into the
perspectives on the traditional Bahraini foods and their cultural significance along with their
impact on both the locals and visitors. Photographic documentation and video documentation
was also employed by the researchers to get a clear and a comprehensive insight on Al
Muharraq Souq. A constant comparative method with thematic coding was used to analyse
the qualitative data collected and revealed patterns and themes related to taste,
modernization, atmosphere, and customer dynamics. Ethical considerations were
prioritized, as informed consent of participants was collected, and anonymity is maintained in
the photographic and video documentation. These methods provide a comprehensive
exploration of the Bahraini traditional cuisine in Al Muharraq Souq offering deep insights
into its cultural and social dimensions.
 4

Findings / Observations

Shwaiter Sweets

Shwaiter Sweets is a shop located in Souq Muharraq and it was established in 1850
[5], and it became a well-known firm not only in Bahrain but in the Middle East. Not only
does this well-known firm make delicious sweets, but it also protects Bahrain's sweet
tradition. Shwaiter Sweets, with its long tradition, shows respect to Bahrain's tradition of
excellent cuisine. With a 100-year history, Shwaiter Sweets is a firm that represents Bahrain's
culinary traditions by offering a delicious variety of sweets with a rich Arabic taste. Shwaiter
sweets contains various forms of traditional Bahraini dishes, the focus would be on Qahwa
and Halwa as the informal conversations should their significance towards the Bahraini

culture.

Photo 1: Served Qahwa

One of the most well-liked beverages in the Middle East and many Arab nations is
(‫ )قهوة‬qahwa coffee. One of the world's oldest beverages, it's made and served by the Royal
Arabs themselves. It stands for the kindness, unity, love, and contentment of the populace.
You may offer this warm, calming beverage with the appetisers, and it looks lovely. Coffee is
offered with nibbles, dates, dry fruits, and sweets. Arabs in the Middle East sip Qahwa coffee
during social events and special occasions. On a typical day, you can have Qahwa coffee with
your family. At majlis (a gathering place), family ceremonies, weddings, anniversaries, etc., a
significant and regal honour is Qahwa coffee. It represents unity and highlights the
uniqueness of each visitor at every event. Shwaiter Sweets offers Qahwa as one of the
traditional Bahraini drinks and upon the taste evaluations conducted by ordering the dish, it
had been noticed that Shwaiters’ qahwa preserved the old traditional taste of qahwa and it did
not go through any modernization whatsoever, thus being favourited among both local
customers and visitors from various backgrounds.
 5

Photo 2: Red Halwa

Bahrain's halwa (‫)حلوى‬is derived from the Omani Halwa. More than 90 years ago,
Bahraini pearl divers and fishermen travelled to Muscat, where they brought halwa to their
cuisine [5]. Since 1850, Bahrain's Pioneer Sweet Shop, a halwa shwaiter, has been making
halwas’. The Halwa Shwaiter, Bahrain's first confectionery, opened for business. Like we
did, you will encounter several shwaiter halwa stores in and around Manama, which are
owned by multiple relatives of the shwaiter family. The Hussam Murham Shwaiter Sweets
Factory is situated near Muharraq, around 5 to 6 km away from Bahrain's capital, which can
be reached in approximately 15 minutes by car. Because the shwaiter offers gourmet
excursions of their factories, seeing them was a must do and the chefs are happy to let visitors
and specialists view, photograph, and record the process of preparing Bahraini halwa in the
kitchen.

Shwaiter Sweets atmosphere is known to be lively and busy as many customers were
observed to go in and out of the shop around 5 people every 10 min, it sells many traditional
sweets like: halwa, fried sambosa with nuts, and khanfaroosh, (khanfaroosh is a deep-fried
dessert like doughnuts). The shop is also filled with the aroma of bukhoor insuring an overall
traditional experience. The warmth of the staff and the sweet aroma enveloping the store
created a welcoming ambiance. The delicious desserts delighted customers' tastes with a
perfect mix of sweetness and texture. Both customers and staff excitedly recommended halwa
since it’s the most famous and flavorful halwa in the middle east, proving its popularity. The
taste still maintained the traditional flavors that reflect the rich culinary heritage of Bahrain.
When it comes to the customers it was observed that there was a mix of both genders (Male
and Female) showing the equal admiration of genders to this shop. The customers were from
various ages and incomes stretching from customers in their 20s to customers in their 60s. It
was also observed that tourists are mainly attracted to this shop as 1 in 5 customers are
tourists from different nationalities that are interested in discovering the taste of Muharraq.
 6

Photo 3: Halwa Crepe (a view of modernization)

Shwaiter sweets embraced a modern presentation in presenting the traditional foods as

foods like halwa and rqaq in a crepe like form, implementing new and modern ways of food
presentation highlighting the importance of modernization to attract customers. This
technique had gained the attention of many locals and tourists as they were interested in
trying this traditional dish in a new form that had never been seen before. The modernization
of this had presented the traditional dish in a new modern way of presentation while keeping
its traditional taste of the past.
 7

Murooj Al Muharraq Sweets

Murooj Al Muharraq Sweets is another main shop that was explored at Al Muharraq
Souq, and it is the first oriental sweet maker in Bahrain. It was first established in 1982, and it
currently has five branches across Bahrain [6]. As per the direct observations had shown,
Murooj Al-Muharraq sweets include both traditional food and famous Bahraini sweets such
as Zalabia, Halwa, Mattai, Rahash and much more. As the informal conversations that were
conducted stated, when asked on what traditional dishes are known to this shop, two dishes
had been noticed to be a fan favourite (Mattai and Zalabia) thus focusing our exploration on
these 2. Further, the direct conversation also showed that these 2 types of dishes were famous
particularly due to them being crucial during Eid (a Muslim celebration) and being served in
the gadoe. Gadoe (‫دوع‬TT‫ )ق‬is available in all Bahraini houses, and it is the food that the
household presents to guests. It includes traditional food dishes both savoury and sweet.

Photo 4: Different types of Mattai sold.

Murooj Al Muharraq sells all different types of (‫ )متاي‬matai, and matai is a very
famous savoury appetizer in Bahrain. It was found in the early 1950s and has become popular
since then [7]. It is usually served as a snack on traditional occasions, but it can also be eaten
on regular days. There are two types of matai: the spicy matai, which is usually orange or red
in colour, and the normal matai, which is yellow. Matai comes in different shapes and sizes,
and it tastes like potato crisps, but it has its own special taste that Bahrainis can't give up on.
A lot of tourists were observed to buy matai as souvenirs when they come to Bahrain due to
its huge popularity and delicious taste. Murooj Al Muharraq as per the taste evaluations on
the matai sold, it was found that this dish holds all the traditional flavours and spices with the
same old recipe that was used. This shows how the customers are interested in this as it has a
taste of the past of Bahrain but sold with a modern way. Tourists were specifically interested
as they heard how this shop was one of the first shops to provide these dishes in Bahrain thus
containing the traditional aroma and the heritage of Bahrain.
 8

Photo 5: Zalabia

Murooj Al Muharraq also sells (‫ة‬TT‫)زالبي‬zalabia, as it is one of the most common

appetizers in Bahrain. Zalabia is a sweet appetizer that is unique in taste and shape, as it is
circular in shape and looks like a funnel. Zalabia is made of a dough that is fried and dipped
in sugar syrup [8]. It is very common in Bahrain to be served something like zalabia when
you are visiting someone to show good manners in addition to fulfilling the eating customs
that are known among Bahrainis and Arabs. Like matai, Zalabia can also be served on
different occasions, like weddings and Eid and other occasions. As for the taste evaluation,
by both ordering and asking customers, it was found that this dish had a mixed of opinions on
as some thought that the dish didn’t capture the essence of the past and that it lacks the
flavours and spices needed while others argued that it has a perfect balance of spices that
goes along with their modern palate. Both the matai and the zalabia were seen as favourites
as the data collected from the conversations conducted showed.

Upon visiting the place, it was observed that Murooj Al Muharaq sells different types
of food, ranging from very traditional like halwa and rahash to modern like chocolate,
biscuits, and even honey. This shows that the shop embraces modern marketing techniques
while also maintaining a traditional cooking method to keep the traditional taste while
gaining modern customers. This tells the visitors that they will find any food they want in this
shop, whether it's related to Bahrain or not thus gaining more customers, but in the end, this
place is famous for selling Bahraini traditional food. The clients observed by the direct
observation of this place were found to be usually middle-aged and elderly people of both
genders (women and men). Both genders equally show their admiration of this place and how
they enjoy the traditional foods there. The clients are both Bahraini’s and various
nationalities, especially from the Gulf countries as they are close to Bahrain and more open to
its traditional dishes. In addition, we saw a lot of tourists visiting this place, and after asking a
few of them about the reason for their presence, most of them said that they came here to see
Bahrain’s traditional food and buy souvenirs for their loved ones. (Anonymous,2023) Murooj
Al Muharaq has an atmosphere that makes the visitor feel the scent of the beautiful past, as
throughout the store, from the right and left, you will find traditional goods for sale in a very
organized manner, displayed on neat, very simple, and beautiful shelves. Murooj Al
Muharraq Sweets despite being built in the 1982 includes a traditional modern design and
 9

architecture when first entering the shop from the inside. This place shows both an old design
portrayed on the outside of the building but with a

modern design on the inside which shows modernization. In the end, after visiting this place
and collecting data by observing and analysing, our group found out that this shop represents
Bahrain, and it shows Bahrain's different food with a touch of the present as it includes
various categories of food from traditional to modern.

Conclusion

To conclude this culinary adventure and journey that is filled with flavours,
we find ourselves not just savouring tastes of dishes within Al Muharraq souq but also
experiencing the cultural and social aspects that truly make these culinary traditions special.
This research showed how food does really play a crucial role in a country’s heritage and is
in fact an important cultural symbol as we could understand a whole culture from the type of
food they eat, cook, and enjoy. This exploration had clearly emphasized how within Al
Muharraq souq, food and especially traditional Bahraini food is admired by both locals and
visitors and vendors due to the significance importance of cultural food in the country. This
exploration helps us step into the past and explore and understand where the traditional
recipes came from and why they are at great demand till this day. As the informal
conversation that were conducted it showed that Food tells stories and memories as each
participant had a direct relationship with various dishes explaining why and when they eat
this certain dish. This observation had left us amazed on the cultural importance that food has
and how does these age-old recipes are still liked and adapted into the evolving tastes of a
modern world? Food is not only a need for humans to fulfil their hunger and fill their
stomachs with, but it’s also going hand in hand in showing a countries culture and traditions.
This exploration does not end here as food and the flavours enhanced within them are a
science on their own that is very difficult to understand but will show a country’s history and
heritage clearly. Bahrain’s food is like a tale of flavours that is yet to be uncovered but is
ready to be shared and enjoyed by everyone.
 10

References

[1] Al-Muḥarraq | Bahrain. (n.d.). Encyclopedia Britannica.

https://www.britannica.com/place/al-Muharraq

[2] Muharraq souq - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (with Photos). (n.d.).
Tripadvisor. Retrieved December 14, 2023, from
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297306-d4605826-Reviews-
Muharraq_souq-Al_Muharraq.html

[3] Centre, U. W. H. (n.d.). Pearling, Testimony of an Island Economy. UNESCO

World Heritage Centre. https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1364

[4] A quote by Deborah Cater. (n.d.). Www.goodreads.com.

https://www.goodreads.com/quotes/614491-you-have-to-taste-a-culture-to-understand-it

[5] Dosaikal. (2020, March 9). The exclusive Bahraini Halwa – a workshop at the

Showaiter’s. Dosaikal. https://dosaikal.com/2020/01/23/the-exclusive-bahraini-halwa-a-

workshop-at-the-showaiters/#:~:text=The%20Halwa%20Showaiter%20–%20the

%20Pioneer,of%20making%20sweets%20since%201850

[6] Murooj Al Muharraq | Odoo. (n.d.). Odoo S.A.

https://www.odoo.com/customers/murooj-al-muharraq-6437922

[7] cold matai. (n.d.). Bhhaloa. https://bhhaloa.com/en/‫البحرين‬-‫متاي‬/p736166963

[8] Aida, A. (2021, October 24). Bahrain - Zalabia / Zalbia Finmail. Finmail.

https://www.finmail.com/blog/world-cuisine/bahrain-zalabia-zalbia/
 11

Appendix

A. Photographic Illustrations

Photo 1: traditional Bahraini Qahwa photo 2: traditional halwa at shwaiter

Photo 3: modernization at shwaiter photo 4: matai options at al murooj

 12

Photo 5: Red zalabia photo 6: closer look of mattai

Photo 7:buying the food to try photo 8: closer look of halwa

Photo 9: murooj shop sweets options photo 10: making and packaging the halwa

B. Media Files

(1) A short video that shows the beauty of Al Muharraq Souq:

-double tap to open