•

PA R I S

RECIPES AND TECI-INIQUES l=ROM

Tl-IE l=ERRANDI SCI-IOOL 01= CULINARY ARTS

Flallllllarion
FERRAND!Paris
Project Coordinator: Audrey Janet
Chefs: Didier Chaput and Arnaud Savina
Students: Sum Yee Leung, Ravisankar Venus,
Vassileios Xanthopoulos, Lauren Zahn, and the students
of the CAP Connexe Boulanger program

Flammarion

French Edition
Editor: Clelia Ozier-Lafontaine, assisted by Laurie Perbost
Editorial Collaboration: Esterelle Payany
Design: Alice Leroy

English Edition
Editorial Director: Kate Mascaro
Editor: Helen Adedotun
Translation from the French: Ansley Evans
Copyediting: Wendy Sweetser
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Proofreading: Nicole Foster
Indexing: Chris Bell

Production: Marylou Deserson and Louisa Hanifi

Color Separation: IGS-CP, L'lsle d'Espagnac

Printed in China by Toppan Leefung

Simultaneously published in French as

Boulanperie, Viennoiserie: Recettes et Techniques
d'une
, Ecole d'Excellence
© Editions Flammarion, S.A., Paris, 2023

En_glish-language edition
© Editions Flammarion, S.A., Paris, 2023

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
or by any means, electronic, photocopy, information retrieval system,
or otherwise, without written permission from
Editions Flammarion, S.A.
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ISBN: 978-2-0804-3334-3
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 •
PA R I S

RECIPES AND TECHNIQUES FROM

THE FERRANDI SCHOOL OF CULINARY ARTS

Photography by Rina Nurra

Flammarion
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PREFACE

For over one hundred years, FERRAN DI Paris has taught all of the culinary
disciplines to students from around the world. Following the success of
our five previous works published by Flammarion-a comprehensive guide
to the art of French patisserie, as well as volumes focused on cooking with
chocolate, vegetables, fruit and nuts, and charcuterie-it is now time to
delve into the world of breads and viennoiserie, whose immense diversity
requires both inventiveness and technical skill on the part of the baker.
Celebrated French loaves and pastries-from baguettes to pain de cam-
pagne, or from croissants to brioches-all form part of the French culinary
heritage that our teachers are committed to keeping alive. The chefs at
FERRAN DI Paris are continuallyenriching this repertoire with regional reci-
pes from around France (such as kougelhopfs and fougasses) and the world
(pita, panettone, babka, and more).

Both traditional skills and creative innovation lie at the heart of FERRAND!
Paris'steaching philosophy. We maintain a balance between the two through
strong ties to the professional world, making our school the leading insti-
tution that it is today. That is why this book not only provides delicious
recipes, but also demonstrates fundamental techniques and shares expert
advice. Anyone who wishes to explore the inspiring world of breads and
viennoiserie, whether it be at home or in a professional kitchen, will find this
volume an invaluable reference.

I extend my warmest thanks to the members of FERRAND! Paris who have

brought this book to fruition, particularly Audrey Janet, who coordinated
the project, and Didier Chaput and Arnaud Savina, chef instructors at the
school, who have generously shared their expertise and adeptly combined
technical skills and imagination to demonstrate the culinary richness of the
art of the French boulangerie.

Richard Ginioux
Executive Director of FERRAND! Paris

5
CONTENTS

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32 TECHNIQUES

10 Introduction 34 Bread

12 French Boulangerie: The Essentials 60 Viennoiserie

24 Equipment 110 Creams and Fillings

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124 RECIPES

126 Classic Breads

146 Specialty Breads 298 APPENDIXES

208 Viennoiserie 300 Index

264 Sandwiches and Snacks 303 Acknowledgments

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INTRODUCTION

A Portrait of
FERRANDIParis

In over one hundred years of history, FERRAN DI Paris has

earned an international reputation as one of the premier
culinary and hospitality schools in France. Since its incep-
tion, the school-hailed "the Harvard of gastronomy" by
the press-has trained generations of leading chefs and
hospitality professionals. Whether at its historic cam-
pus in the Saint-Germain-des-Pres district in Paris, or its
campuses in Saint-Gratien, Bordeaux, Rennes, or Dijon,
FERRAND! Paris is dedicated to world-class teaching with
the aim of training future leaders in hotel and restaurant
management, hospitality entrepreneurship, and the culi-
nary arts, including pastry and bread making.

Founded more than a century ago by the Paris lie-de-

France Regional Chamber of Commerce and Industry,
FERRAN DI Paris is the only school in France to offer a full
range of degree and certification programs in the culinary
and hospitality arts, from vocational training to the mas-
ter's degree level, in addition to international programs.
The school takes pride in its 98 percent exam pass rate,
which is the highest in France for degrees and certifica-
tions in the sector. No matter the level, a FERRAN DI Paris
education is rigorous and combines a mastery of the
basics with an emphasis on innovation, management and
entrepreneurial skills, and hands-on practice in a profes-
sional environment.

Strong Ties to the Professional World
A space for discovery, inspiration, and exchange-where
the culinary arts mingle with science, technology, and
innovation-FERRAND! Paris brings together the most
prestigious and innovative names in the hospitality sector
and creative culinary world. The school trains 2,200 ap-
prentices and students each year, in addition to three hun-
dred international students of over thirty nationalities and
two thousand adults who come to the school to perfect
their skills or change careers. The one hundred instructors
at the school are all highly qualified: several have received
prominent culinary awards and distinctions, such as the
Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman in France)
title, and all have at least ten years of work experience in
the culinary field in prestigious establishments in France
and abroad. To give students maximum opportunities and
the chance to connect with other fields and the greater
global community, the school has formed collaborative
partnerships with several other institutions. In France,
partner schools include the ESCP Europe Business School
and AgroParis Tech; abroad. the school collaborates with
Johnson and Wales University in the United States, the
ITHQ tourism and hotel management school in Canada.
Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Macao Institute for
Tourism Studies, and Ba§kent University in Turkey, among
others. Since theory and practice go hand in hand. and
because FERRAND! Paris strives for excellence in teach-
ing, students also have the chance to participate in a num-
ber of official events through partnerships with several
chief culinary associations in France, including Ma1tres

10

Cuisiniers de France. Societe des Meilleurs Ouvriers de
France. Euro-Toques, and more. In addition. the school
offers numerous prestigious professional competitions
and prizes, giving students many opportunities to demon-
strate their skills and knowledge. A dedicated ambassa-
dor of French culture, FERRAND! Parisdraws students
from around the world every year and is a member of
the French lnterministerial Tourism Council; the College
Culinaire de France (an association dedicated to uphold-
ing culinary craftsmanship); the Strategic Committee
Atout France (the French tourism development agency);
and the Conference des Formations d'Excellence au
Tourisme (CFET). a group of institutions in France offering
top-quality training in tourism-related fields.
Extensive Savoir Faire
FERRAND! Paris'sexpertise. combining practice and
close collaboration with professionals in the field. has
been shared in five previous volumes devoted to French
patisserie (which received a Gourmand World Cookbook
award), chocolate making, vegetables. fruits and nuts, and
charcuterie, intended for both professional chefs and
amateur cooks alike. In this next book in the successful
series, FERRAND! Parisnow brings the art of the French
boulangerie into the spotlight, focusing on breads and
viennoiseries. From French classics, such as baguettes,
country and whole wheat boules, fougasses, brioches, and
pain de mie, to modern or international recipes including
pretzels, panettone. babka. and cruffins. this book offers
a world tour of bread-making expertise.
Breads, viennoiseries, and other delicacies
Long a symbol of sharing, bread nourishes both the body
and mind. At its most basic level, bread is a combination
of flour, water, levain or yeast. and a little salt, yet it also
involves time and controlled fermentation. Above all,
bread is a product of knowledge perfected over millennia
that varies from country to country. The fact that so many
recipes have evolved from these few simple ingredients
reflects the skill and creativity of generations of bakers
who have shared and passed on their craft. Made from
wheat. rye, spelt. and a whole host of other grains, breads
are incredibly diverse. Enriched with milk, butter, and
eggs-and made with unique techniques including lami-
nating, which results in buttery, flaky layers-viennoiseries
are equally impressive. Whether enjoyed for breakfast or
as a teatime snack, treats such as brioches, croissants,
cinnamon rolls. and kouign-amann are always a delight to
eat. In this book, FERRAND! Parisprofessionals explore
the infinite range of fermentations, shapes. techniques.
and recipes for breads and viennoiseries from France and
around the world, for all to savor. Time to get kneading!
of
11
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Although the exact origins of bread making have been lost in time, it is certain
that humans have made loaves combining the same basic ingredients for
millennia: flour, water, salt, and the magic of fermentation. However, methods
have evolved over the years, fine-tuned by generations of bakers worldwide.
In this book, FERRAND! Paris professionals share their expertise through
techniques and recipes that celebrate the renowned art of the French
boulangerie. This introduction offers an overview of the main ingredients and
stages in bread making, in addition to a few basic definitions, to help you
succeed in making the recipes that follow.

Ingredients
Flour
Flour is the main ingredient in bread. Without a modifier, the term almost
always refers to wheat flour, but it has been extended to encompass the fine
powders produced by grinding different seeds and grains. Naturally rich in
gluten, common wheat (Triticum aestivum)-also known as bread wheat-is the
most frequently used grain in bread making. It is also among the most widely
produced cereal crops in the world.

Wheat kernels consist of an outer layer made of cellulose (known as the "bran"),
an endosperm containing the starch and proteins, and a germ that is rich in oil.
Depending on how a given flour is milled, it will be more or less whole grain
(whole wheat or wholemeal). French flours are categorized on a scale ranging
from Tl50 (100 percent whole grain) to T 45 (the whitest), with the letter "T"
representing the mineral (or ash) content per 100 g (3.5 oz.) of flour. The whiter
the flour (i.e., the more refined it is), the less bran, or minerals, it contains: from
0.45 percent in T 45 flour to 1.5 percent in Tl50 flour. Individual flours within
each "T" category present different bread-making qualities, depending on their
"strength": the amount of protein (especially gluten) they contain.

Stoneground flour is obtained by grinding grains between two millstones,

rather than metal cylinders. This method retains the germ and some of the
bran, which makes the flour more nutritious.

There are six categories of French flour. Although American and British
flours differ in mineral and protein content, the following chart suggests
near equivalents. The original French flours used in the recipes in this book
have been left in parentheses in the ingredients lists for bakers who wish to
source them. Some bakers also combine different flours to mimic the French
flour types.

15
French flour types

Type Other names in French Nearest US/UK equivalents Typical uses

T-45 Farine blanche, farine de gruau Cake and pastry flour, or all-purpose flour Viennoiseries, pastries, pizzas

TSS Farine blanche, farine de gruau All-purpose flour Standard white breads, puff pastries
....,
T65 Farine blan.che White bread flour White breads

TBO Farine bise White whole wheat flour Country breads

TllO Farine semi-complete Light whole wheat flour Whole wheat breads

TlSO Farine complete Dark/100% whole wheat flour Bran breads

Other flours

Name Characteristics Description

Low in gluten but suitable for bread Rye contains mucilage, which makes leavening more difficult
Rye flour making. Deeply flavorful and mildly to master; this is why rye flour is often mixed with an equal
acidic. Often used to start a levain-chef. amount of white wheat flour.

Despite its name, buckwheat is not actually wheat.

Gluten free. Grayish in color with It is used to make Breton crepes because it has no rising power,
Buckwheat flour
a slightly bitter taste. Oxidizes quickly. and can be combined with other gluten-free grains to make
gluten-free bread.

A cousin of common wheat, low-yielding einkorn (Triticum

Low in gluten but suitable for bread
monocuccum) is making a comeback due to its high nutritional
Einkorn flour making. Slightly yellow with a mild
value. It produces dense loaves that do not rise much but are
hazelnut flavor.Turns rancid easily.
nutritionally rich.

A cold-weather grain, Triticum spelta is hardier and richer

Suitable for bread making. in fiber than wheat and must be husked before grinding.
Spelt flour
Mild nutty flavor. Doughs using spelt flour need less water and maintain their
shape well during baking.

Gluten free. Bright yellow or white, As it is gluten free, corn flour is best used in combination
Corn flour depending on the type of corn used. with other flours. Be sure not to confuse it with cornstarch,
Slightly sweet, intense flavor. which has very different properties.

Made from brown or white rice, rice flour is particularly fine.

Gluten free. Very neutral in flavor.
Rice flour It should not be confused with rice starch or the coarser
Gives a crumbly, sandy texture.
"cream of rice."

Milled from dried roasted chestnuts, chestnut flour is rich

Gluten free. Mild and sweet; in protein and fiber and is naturally gluten free, so it is not
Chestnut flour
remarkably fragrant. suitable on its own for bread making. It is mainly used for crepes,
tea cakes, etc.
l

16
Gluten and strength
Discovered in 1745, gluten is formed when two proteins
(gliadin and glutenin) contained in certain grains-
including wheat, barley, and rye-come into contact with
water during the kneading process. The name gluten,
which means glue in Latin, alludes to the protein's role:
it gives dough elasticity and viscosity, and traps the CO2
released during fermentation. It helps produce loftier,
lighter loaves with a pleasantly chewy texture. Wheat
flour contains 8-15 percent gluten: the more it contains,
the "stronger" it is, meaning it is more resistant to the
deformations produced by levain and yeast. Measured
using a special device, flour strength ranges from 100 to
300 W (the unit of measure, which is, unfortunately, rarely
listed on commercial packaging).
Protein content Recommended uses
8-10% Pastries, puff pastry, sauces, crepes, etc.
10-12% Breads
12-15% Viennoiseries (yeasted puff pastries)
In general, whiter flours are stronger than whole-grain
flours, which are rich in bran and fiber.
Celiac disease is a chronic, intestinal autoimmune
disorder linked to the ingestion of gluten, and sufferers
must avoid any product containing even minute traces.
Gluten intolerance is a sensitivity to gluten and not an
autoimmune disorder, but it can cause similar symptoms;
however, its effects on sufferers' health are usually short
term, unlike celiac disease.
Levain
The starting point for bread making. levain is a mixture
of flour and water that undergoes a natural fermentation
process and makes doughs rise. Levain contains lactic acid
bacteria and wild yeasts. naturally present in the flour.
These microorganisms play a key role in the texture and
flavor of bread, and also influence its keeping potential.
In breaking down the carbohydrates in the flour, yeasts
release CO2, enabling dough to rise, while bacteria
provide the acidity characteristic of levain-based breads.
In accordance with French tradition, this book refers to a
culture of fermented flour and water as levain, as opposed
to a sourdough starter, although bakers often use the
terms interchangeably.
It takes several days to make a levain that is ready for bread
making. It can be made with a piece of dough taken from
a previous batch of levain-based bread, or a levain-chef
can be started from scratch (see technique p. 36). The levain-
chef is ready to use when it rises and falls predictably
•
after each feeding and emits a beer-like smell: evidence
of fermentation. A new levain-chef must be refreshed-fed
with water and flour and left to ferment again-five or six
times before it can be used to make bread (seetechniquespp.38
and40). This process makes the fermentation time more
consistent and refines the levain's flavors. Depending on
the amount of water added, you obtain either a stiff levain
(50 percent hydration, recommended for flavorful rustic
breads with a thick crust), which has acetic aromas, or a
liquid levain (100 percent hydration and milder in taste),
with milky aromas. Once refreshed levain has reached
peak fermentation, it is ready to be mixed into dough. At
this point, it is considered "tout point": i.e., ripe and ready
to leaven bread and maximize flavor.
Be sure to refresh your levain once it is expanded and
bubbly (tout point), as waiting too long to feed it can
affect the flavor of subsequent batches. A vigorous,
healthy levain is remarkably resilient and can return to
top form after a few regular feedings. If you only plan to
bake once a week (or less), it is best to store your levain in
the refrigerator, where it can hibernate for up to 2 weeks.
After cold storage, levain will be sluggish and will need
several feedings before it is tout point again. With regular
attention, levain can live forever. Bakers pass theirs on from
generation to generation, and some levains have famously
been sold along with actual bakeries. Baking with levain is
the oldest bread-making method, and although it fell out
of favor in the 1920s, it has seen a revival in recent years
Commercial Yeast
Also known as baker's yeast, commercial yeast is
industrially produced from a multitude of microscopic
fungi of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae family. It comes
fresh (also known as cake or compressed yeast) or dried
17
(in granules, whether instant or active dry). Many recipes
in this book call for fresh yeast. which can be found in the
refrigerated sections of larger supermarkets, purchased
online, or possibly sourced from your local bakery or
pizzeria. If you cannot find it, substitute 50% of the weight
of fresh yeast with active dry yeast, or 40% with instant
yeast.
When combined with carbohydrates (contained in flour)
and water, and placed in a warm environment-at least
75°F (24°C)-yeast cells proliferate, making dough rise
faster and more reliably than levain-based doughs.
Viennoiseries are typically made with commercial yeast,
which can be used in pre-ferments (see below), or mixed
directly with the other dough ingredients.
Pre-fermentation entails preparing a small amount of
dough and leaving it to ferment for at least a few hours
before kneading it into the main dough. This strengthens
the gluten network and gives the flavor more time to
develop. In addition to improving taste, pre-fermentation
also strengthens weak flour and makes the final product
last longer.
The main pre-fermentation methods used in this book are:
• Pate fermentee: French for "fermented dough," pate
fermentee is simply a portion of dough reserved from a
previous batch. It is a natural way to strengthen dough and
boost flavor. It keeps for up to 3 days in the refrigerator
(the flavor will be stronger the longer it ferments). If you
do not have any leftover dough, you can prepare the pate
fermentee for a specific recipe the day before you make
it: mix together 3/4 cup+ 2 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g) flour,¼ cup
(60 g/60 ml) water, 0.05 oz. (1 g) fresh yeast, and 0.1 oz.
(2g) fine salt, scaling the quantities up or down as needed.
Place in a clean bowl, cover, and refrigerate overnight (or
up to 3 days) before using.
• Poolish (see technique p. 42): Made from flour, water, yeast,
and sometimes salt, this highly fluid mixture ferments
slowly to develop flavor and subtle acidity. It works well
in recipes such as croissants or baguettes. Poolish must
be used as soon as it is ripe and cannot be stored.
Water
Just as important as flour, water binds all the dough ingre-
dients together, and allows the magic of gluten formation
and fermentation to take place. The quantity needed for
each recipe depends on the type of flour used and the
hydration level of the dough. It is best to use filtered water,
or to allow the chlorine, which is volatile, to dissipate by
letting the water stand for 12 hours before use. It should
be noted that water temperature is the easiest param-
eter to control for optimal fermentation (see Desired dough
temperature p. 20).
18
Salt
Beyond enhancing flavor, salt plays other key roles in
bread making. It improves gluten strength by promoting
protein binding, makes doughs firm by limiting water
evaporation, improves flavor development by lengthening
the fermentation time, produces a more uniform crumb,
and favors the formation of a thin, nicely colored crust.
Lastly, it also improves the keeping quality of bread once
baked. On the flip side, salt inhibits the development
of microorganisms, so avoid putting it in direct contact
with levain or yeast since it can slow or even halt the
fermentation process.
For viennoiserie
Sugar
Sugars do far more than just sweeten dough. Superfine,
granulated, powdered, and brown sugars-as well as other
sweeteners like honey-enhance viennoiserie in many
ways. In addition to boosting the fermentation process
by feeding the yeasts, they also make the crumb more
tender and moist, encourage the crust to brown more
quickly, and-by retaining water-improve the storage time
of baked goods.
Milk
Milk is the liquid of choice in many viennoiserie recipes,
replacing water partially or entirely. This makes dough soft
and moist and helps it to brown more quickly in the oven.
References to milk in these recipes are always to cow's
milk, and if the type is not specified, you can choose from
whole or low-fat milk. Use fresh pasteurized or UHT milk,
not raw milk.
Butter
Unless the ingredients for a recipe state otherwise, use
unsalted butter, preferably with a fat content of at least
82%. The higher its fat content, the less water the butter
contains, which equates to flakier crusts. A high butterfat
content is particularly important when making laminated
doughs such as puff pastries, which benefit from butter
with a minimum of 84% fat. When a recipe calls for
softened or room temperature butter, remove it from the
refrigerator at least 30 minutes before starting.
Eggs
The eggs used in these recipes are hen's eggs. As preci-
sion is crucial in bread and viennoiserie making, most egg
quantities are given by weight and volume, in addition to
an approximate number of eggs. This number is based
on a standard "large" egg in the US and Canada and a
"medium" egg in the UK, with an average in-shell weight
of about 2 oz. (55 g).
,

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Measuring ingredients
For successful results, it is always advisable to weigh your
ingredients-including liquids-using a digital scale and
preferably using metric weights. The volume and imperial
measures included throughout this book have been
rounded up or down to avoid awkward or unmeasurable
amounts. When using cups and spoons, they must be level
unless stated otherwise.
Baker's percentage or baker's math
If you wish to scale a recipe up or down, the baker's per-
centage comes in handy. However, it only applies to metric
measures. In this dough formula, the total weight of the
flour represents 100 percent, and all the other ingredi-
ents are expressed as a percentage of the flour weight.
To determine the percentage of the other ingredients,
divide the weight of each by the flour weight in grams,
then multiply the result by 100. For example, if a recipe
contains 500 g flour and 350 g water, the formula would
be (350 ""500) x 100 =70%. If you want to scale the recipe
up and use 750 g flour, you'd need 70% of this weight in
water (525 g), and so on for the other ingredients.
The stages of bread making
Once levain has been refreshed and reached peak
fermentation (tout point or ripe), it is time to make bread.
Each step is important to ensure successful results.
Kneading
Whether using a stand mixer or your hands, the bread-
making process begins by mixing the ingredients together.
This hydrates the flour, incorporates air, and starts devel-
oping the gluten network, which will eventually trap the
CO2 produced by the yeast or levain. The temperature of
the water used influences the dough temperature and is a
particularly important parameter for optimal fermentation
(see Desired dough temperature, right). The kneading stage starts by
combining all the dough ingredients until they come to-
gether: this slow-speed mixing process, known as frasage
in French, typically lasts for 3-5 minutes. In some cases,
the flour and water in a recipe are combined first and left
to rest for 30 minutes-1 hour before adding the remaining
ingredients. This optional step, called autolyse, hydrates
the flour and relaxes the gluten network, which makes the
dough more extensible and reduces the kneading time,
which is of particular interest for long-fermented breads.
Next comes the rapid kneading phase, which gives the
dough structure by developing the gluten network further
and incorporating air. The dough texture can be adjusted
by adding a small amount of liquid (bassinage) or flour
(contre-frasage) at the end of the kneading stage. The
20
desired dough consistency depends on the type of bread
you are making: soft dough, which requires two fermen-
tation stages, produces an open crumb; batard dough
has more body and produces different-sized holes in the
crumb; and stiff dough results in a tight crumb.
To ensure the dough is sufficiently kneaded, perform
the windowpane test: stretch out a small piece of
dough between your hands. If it stretches until thin and
transparent without tearing, it is ready. Aim for this level of
development when kneading dough for viennoiserie and
pizzas. For slow-rising, levain-based doughs, this will occur
at the end of the bulk fermentation process, after several
sets of folds (see technique p. 48). This test is not suitable for
doughs using whole wheat flour with bran or doughs that
include seeds, chopped nuts, etc.
Desired dough temperature (DDT)
The dough temperature significantly influences the rate
of fermentation, so it plays a crucial role in leavening
and flavor. For optimal results, the dough temperature
should be 73°F-79°F (23°C-26°C) after kneading. This
is especially important for professional bakers, who need
to maintain consistency loaf after loaf. To obtain the DDT.
professionals use a formula to calculate the variable that
is easiest to adjust: water temperature. The formula also
takes room temperature, flour temperature, and friction
factor (the heat generated by the kneading method) into
consideration. To determine the ideal water temperature,
multiply the DDT by 3 (or by 4 if using levain or a pre-
ferment). Then subtract the temperatures of the flour,
room, friction factor, and levain, if using. Figure a friction
factor of 0°F (0°C) for hand kneading and around 25°F or
l8°C (different scales used for °F and °C) for a stand mixer.
Ideal water temp. = DDT x 3 (or 4 if using levain) - flour
temp. - room temp. - 25°F or l8°C
Home bakers need not be so concerned with these cal-
culations; just bear in mind that if the room temperature
is warm, cool (but not icy) water should be used, and,
conversely, if it is cool, warm (but never hot) water should
be used.
Fermentation
The fermentation process is generally divided into two
phases: bulk fermentation (the first rise) and proofing
(the second rise). This is when the levain and/or yeast
come into play, consuming the sugars present in the flour
and giving off byproducts such as alcoholic compounds,
which influence dough flavor and strength, and CO2,
which makes the dough rise. Controlling the fermentation
times and temperatures is essential to successful bread
making.
Shaping
The shaping of the dough takes place after the bulk
fermentation phase and is usually followed by a second
fermentation phase: proofing. Some doughs must be pre-
shaped and left to rest before giving them their final form.
Shaping not only gives the dough a specific form, but
also restores its strength after bulk fermentation. Whether
shaping a boule, baguette, batard, epi, or bun, mastering
the technique is a matter of practice.
Proofing
For doughs that require proofing, t1m1ng is key.
Underproofed dough will not have enough gas to rise,
while overproofed dough, with a weakened gluten net-
work, may collapse during baking. Although the recipes
provide proofing times, the exact time needed depends
on many factors, including the proofing temperature. To
ensure dough is sufficiently proofed and ready for the
oven, you can do the poke test. Gently press your finger
into the dough: if the dough springs back quickly, it is
underproofed; if it does not spring back, it is overproofed.
If the dough springs back slowly and a small indentation
remains where it was poked, it is ready to bake.
Scoring
Some doughs must be scored-slashed with a decisive,
quick movement, often using a bread lame-either after
shaping or, more usually, after proofing, before going into
the oven. Scoring is not only aesthetically pleasing, but
it also maximizes oven spring. These strategic cuts allow
the steam and CO2 to escape during baking, helping the
bread to expand while rising. Certain types of bread (in-
cluding ciabatta, focaccia, sandwich bread, and low-gluten
breads like rye or einkorn) do not need to be scored.
Baking and cooling
A crucial step in bread making, baking is tricky to master
in a home kitchen due to the differences between domes-
tic and professional ovens. Professional bakers use deck
ovens with high thermal inertia. It is hard to obtain the same
results in home ovens, in which you cannot bake directly on
the oven floor. But with a little trial and error, it is possible
to make bakery-worthy bread at home. The moment the
dough goes into the oven is especially important. In a final
burst of fermentation, the dough rapidly expands, produc-
ing what is known as oven spring. To maximize this process,
the oven must be fully preheated to the desired tempera-
ture. Professional bakers also add an injection of steam,
which not only keeps the dough surface moist, allowing
it to expand easily, but also adds shine and encourages
the crust to color evenly. Using a preheated bread stone,
heavy-duty baking sheet. or Dutch oven (see technique p. 59)
are other ways to achieve professional-looking results at
home. After removing most breads and viennoiseries from
the oven. it is best to let them cool on a rack before cutting
(ressuage). This ensures a crisp crust and allows the flavors
developed during fermentation and baking to meld.
How to bake with steam on a hot baking sheet or stone:
• Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a
rack in the center of the oven (to recreate the conditions
of a professional deck oven) and an empty heavy-duty
rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack. If using a
baking stone, follow the manufacturer's recommended
preheating times.
• Preheat the oven to the desired temperature and bring
l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
• Place the proofed dough on a sheet of parchment paper
or a flour-dusted peel to make it easier to transfer to the
oven.
-Slide the dough (on the parchment paper, if using) onto
the hot baking sheet or stone once the oven is fully
preheated.
• Immediately pour the simmering water into the pan on
the lower rack to create steam and quickly close the oven
door. Be sure to wear oven mitts and protect yourself from
the burst of hot steam.
Note: Thicker baking sheets and stones retain more heat
and so produce better results. This encourages oven
spring and makes the crust wonderfully crisp. Some
breads require drying, to develop a thicker, crisper crust,
which is why some recipes say to open the oven door
toward the end of the baking time to release steam and
then lower the oven temperature. This allows the bread to
finish baking without browning the crust further.
Storing and freezing breads and viennoiseries
It is best to store moist, tender breads (such as sandwich
bread, buns, and pita bread) in plastic bags or well
covered with plastic wrap to keep them soft. Breads with
crisp crusts keep better wrapped in a clean dish towel.
Store dry breads, such as crackers or breadsticks (see
recipe p. 196), in an airtight container, preferably made of
metal. When a recipe produces a greater quantity than
you need, freezing is a good solution for the surplus. For
breads such as baguettes (see recipes pp. 128-33), parbaking
is recommended. Bake the dough until the first signs
of coloring, then remove the loaves from the oven and
let them cool completely on a rack. Cover airtight with
plastic wrap and freeze. To finish baking, preheat the
oven according to the recipe and bake directly from the
freezer, adding a burst of steam (see above), until done.
The bread will be fresh and crisp. In contrast, it is best to
bake viennoiseries completely before freezing them. After
they have fully cooled, carefully cover them with plastic
wrap, taking care not to crush the puff pastry layers, and
freeze. To serve. defrost on a rack and warm in the oven
at 300°F (l50°C/Gas Mark 2) for 4-5 minutes.
21
 ~~
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,
Glossary of boulangerie terms

AUTOLYSE REFRESHING
A resting stage after the flour and water in a recipe have Feeding levain with flour and water to keep it robust or
been mixed together, before adding the remaining dough get it ready for baking (see techniques pp. 38 and 40).
ingredients (see technique p. 44).
,
SEAM (CLE)
BASSINAGE The place where two dough edges meet, created by
The addition of a small percentage of the total water in shaping. Dough may be baked with the seam facing up
a recipe at the end of the kneading stage, to adjust the or down, depending on the loaf.
dough texture.
SUPPLE
BOULANGERIE Used to describe a dough that is pliant with a certain
The French word for a bakery that sells mostly breads degree of extensibility. Soft doughs may be supple but
and viennoiseries. In France, the term can only be used not necessarily elastic.
for stores that make their own bread.
VIENNOISERIE
BULK FERMENTATION (POINTAGE) French baked goods leavened with yeast or levain and
The first resting period after kneading and the first stage frequently enriched with milk, butter, eggs, and/or sugar.
in fermentation, also known as the first rise. The doughs are often laminated. Generally less sweet
than patisseries, viennoiseries-i nclud i ng croissants and
COOLING (RESSUAGE) brioches-are typically eaten for breakfast in France.
The essential stage just after the bread is removed from
,
the oven: it is placed on a rack to allow steam trapped WATER DOUGH (DETREMPE)
inside the loaf to gradually evaporate outward through Made with flour, water, and salt, water dough is the first
the crust, optimizing flavor and texture. step in puff pastry recipes before incorporating the lami-
nated butter. In this book, it is referred to as base dough
ELASTICITY when made with milk instead of water.
The capacity of a dough to return to its original shape or
spring back after it has been stretched.

LEVAIN
A natural culture derived from the spontaneous fermen-
tation of water and flour used to leaven bread. It is also
known as sourdough starter. The term levain-chef refers
to the master (or mother) culture that is refreshed or fed to
produce levain tout point (ripe levain), which has reached
peak fermentation and is ready to be mixed into dough.

OVEN SPRING
The final burst of fermentation that occurs right after the
dough goes into the oven, causing the dough to expand
rapidly. The greater the oven spring, the airier the crumb.

,.
PROOFING (APPRET)
The second resting period after shaping dough (also
called the second rise) and the final fermentation stage
before baking.

23
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•
0

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0
0

,. Baker's couche
2. Flour bench brush
3- Bread lame
4- Scissors
5- Dough docker
6. Bench scraper
7- Bowl scraper

26
 •

- .-
.........
........
., ....
...,..,.
~ ..
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.._.........
...
-11r-••--
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0 0 0 0

1. Fine grater or zester

2. Rolling pin
3. Whisk
4, Pastry brush
5, Instant-read thermometer

27
 --Q_
MATFaR

0 0 e 0 0

1. Offset spatula
2. Palette knife
3. Large flexible spatula
4. Small flexible spatula
s. Firm spatula

28
 0 0 0

1. Paring knife
2. Chef's knife
3, Serrated knife

29
 -----.:;:

0 0

?
0
0

1. Assorted cloth-lined bannetons (proofing baskets) 4. Bread peel

2. Assorted rattan bannetons (proofing baskets) 5. Baguette peel
3. Glass canning jars 6. Fluted apple turnover cutter
7. Star-shaped cookie cutters

30
 0 0
MATFER
POCHEIMPER
Made in France
300
10h11'

1. Cooling rack 1. Pastry bag

2. Kougelhopf mold 2. Assorted pastry tips
3. Brioche mold
,4. Individual brioche molds
5. Pullman (pain de mie) loaf pan

1. Stand mixer with attachments:

A. Dough hook
B. Whisk
C. Paddle beater
G
31
-
•
36 LEVAIN-CHEF(MASTERLEVAIN)
38 REFRESHINGLEVAIN-CHEFTO MAKE STIFF LEVAIN
40 REFRESHINGLEVAIN-CHEFTO MAKE LIQUID LEVAIN
42 POOLISH
44 AUTOLYSE
45 KNEADING DOUGH IN A STAND MIXER
46 KNEADING DOUGH BY HAND
48 FOLDING DOUGH
50 SHAPING DOUGH INTO A BOULE
51 SHAPING DOUGH INTO A BAGUETTE
I

53 SHAPING DOUGH INTO AN EPI(WHEAT STALK)

54 SCORING BAGUETTES
55 SCORING SOULES
56 SCORING DOUGH WITH A CHEVRON CUT
57 SCORING DOUGH WITH DIAGONAL SLASHES
58 SCORING DOUGH WITH A CROSSHATCH(POLKA) CUT I
I
59 BAKING BREAD IN A DUTCH OVEN
BREAD

Levain-Che (tv1aster Levain)

Makes 6.75 oz. (190 g) Ingredients

¾ tsp (5 g) honey
Active time Scant ½ cup (100 g/100 ml)
5 minutes water at ll3°F (45°C)
¾ cup (3 oz./85 g) rye flour
(or whole wheat flour)
Fermentation time
About 24-48 hours at room
Equipment
temperature, until ready to be
refreshed (see "What Next?" p. 37) Whisk
Glass canning jar

Place the honey and water in a large bowl

and whisk to dissolve the honey.

CHEFS'NOTES

• The fermentation time depends on the flour used, the room temperature,
the ambient humidity, and the season. This explains the large difference between the minimum
and maximum fermentation times. The process will take longer in a cooler environment.

• Honey activates the fermentation process. You can omit the honey,
although it will take longer for the cultures to become active.

36
Whisk in the flour. Transfer the mixture to a clean jar, close the jar,
and let ferment in a warm place (ideally at around
95°F/35°C). Fermentation will take longer
in a cooler place.

WHAT NEXT?

The levain-chef cannot be used at this stage;

it must be refreshed (or fed) 5 or 6 times
before it is tout point, i.e., ripe and ready to be
used in a recipe. If you require a stiff levain,
follow the technique on p. 38; if you require a
liquid levain, follow the technique on p. 40. It
should take about a week of refreshing and
fermentation to obtain a levain tout point.

When the mixture begins to have a distinct odor,

large bubbles appear, and the texture resembles
chocolate mousse, it must be refreshed to keep
the culture alive and make the levain robust
enough for baking (see "What Next?").

37
BREAD

Refreshing Levain-Che
to Make Stiff Levain

Makes 10.5 oz. (300 g) Ingredients

stiff levain
Active time
5 minutes
Fermentation time
5 hours or more, depending
on the room temperature
Storage
Up to 24 hours at warm room
temperature and several days
in the refrigerator once
established (after chilling,
refresh it as needed until tout
point-ripe and ready to use)
2 oz. (60 g) {evain-chef
(see technique p. 36)
1/3 cup (80 g/80 ml) water
at 95°F (35°C)
Scant 1½ cups (5.5 oz./160 g)
stoneground white whole wheat
flour (T80)
Equipment
Stand mixer + dough hook
Glass canning jar large enough
for the levain to double
in volume

Place the levain and water in the bowl

of the stand mixer.

Mix to loosen the levain and create small bubbles Incorporate the flour and mix on low speed
to activate the bacteria and yeast in the levain. for 5 minutes.

38
 CHEFS'NOTES
• A stiff levain-chef is considered "established"
and ready to use when it consistently doubles
in volume after each feeding.
Turn the levain out onto a work surface. Knead it by
folding the bottom and top edges inward and then
flattening it.
Roll between your hands on the work surface
to form a taut, smooth ball. Store in a clean, heavy
airtight jar (one able to withstand pressure) and
keep in a warm place (ideally at around 82°F/28°C)
for fermentation. If it is cooler, the process will
take longer.
• Stiff levain will have an acidic
and slightly vinegary smell and taste.
Rotate the dough 90° and fold the bottom and top
edges inward.
'\
The stiff levain is tout point, i.e., ripe and ready
to use, when it has doubled in volume, begins to
collapse slightly, and cracks appear on the surface.
The levain is considered "young" right before it
reaches its peak. Weigh out the amount you need
for your recipe, refresh the rest, and store.
39
BREAD

Refreshing Levain-Che
to Make Liquid Levain

Makes 10.5 oz. (300 g) Ingredients

levain ½ cup (120 g/120 ml) water
at ll3°F (45°C)
Active time 2 oz. (60 g) levain-chef
(see technique p. 36)
5 minutes
l cup (4 oz./ 120 g) white bread
flour (T65)
Fermentation time
5 hours or more, depending
Equipment
on the room temperature
2 glass canning jars large
enough for the levain to triple
Storage in volume
Up to 24 hours at warm room Flexible spatula
temperature and several days
in the refrigerator once Whisk
I
established (after chilling,
refresh it as needed until tout
point-ripe and ready to use)

Pour the water over the levain in a jar or bowl.

Using the spatula, stir to loosen.

••
• •
·:•
•! •...•
. .. •

• •
•
•
.• .
•

Pour the mixture into a large bowl and whisk until

frothy to activate the microbes in the levain.

40
 I

Whisk in the flour. Pour into a clean jar and set aside in a warm
place to ferment (ideally at around 95°F/35°C).
The fermentation will take longer in a colder
environment .

....

I
CHEFS' NOTES

• A liquid levain-chef is considered "established"

and ready to use when it consistently
triples in volume after each feeding.

• Liquid levain will have a mild and slightly sweet

and milky smell and taste, reminiscent of yogurt.

The liquid levain is tout point, i.e., ripe and ready

to use, when it has tripled in volume, large bubbles
have formed on the surface, and cracks are just
beginning to appear. The levain is considered
"young" right before it reaches its peak. Weigh out
the amount you need for your recipe, refresh the
rest, and store.

41
BREAD

Poolish

Active time Ingredients

5 minutes 0.05 oz. (l g) fresh yeast,
crumbled
1/3 cup (80 g/80 ml) water
Fermentation time
2/3 cup (3 oz./80 g) flour
3 hours

Storage
Poolish must be used when
it is ripe and cannot be stored

Equipment
Whisk
Clean glass jar

Whisk the yeast into the water in the mixing bowl

until it has dissolved completely.

Whisk in the flour until well combined. Transfer to the glass jar and close.

42
 CHEFS'NOTES

To make poolish, you need equal amounts of flour and water.

The amount of fresh yeast depends on the fermentation time at room temperature,
according to the following metric formula: amount of water x 40-:- hours of fermentation

For example:

4 cups (1 L) water X 40 . 1 hour fermentation - 1.5 oz. (40 g) fresh yeast

4 cups (1 L) water X 40 . 10 hours fermentation - 0.15 oz. (4 g) fresh yeast
2 cups (500 ml) water X 40 . 2 hours fermentation - 0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh yeast
4 qt. (4 L) water X 40 -.. 8 hours fermentation -- 0.75 oz. (20 g) fresh yeast

Let the poolish ferment for about 3 hours, until it has tripled in volume,
it is just beginning to collapse, and cracks start to form on the surface. Use immediately.

Above: poolish before (left) and after (right) fermentation.

43
BREAD

Autolyse

Active time Ingredients

10 minutes Water
Flour
Resting time Fresh yeast
At least 30 minutes {ideally Salt
several hours)

Equipment
Stand mixer+ dough hook

CHEFS' NOTES

The quantities of ingredients will depend on

the recipe you are making. This technique
used in many bread recipes: it hydrates the flour
completely, reduces kneading time, strengthens
the dough. and boosts flavor.
is
Place the water and flour in the bowl of the stand
mixer. Mix for 3-5 minutes on low speed until no
dry pockets of flour remain. The dough will not be
elastic at this point and will tear when pulled.

Let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes, or
ideally for several hours, depending on the recipe.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a damp dish
towel, ensuring it does not touch the dough.
At the end of the autolyse process, the dough
will be smoother and more extensible.
Make two small wells in the dough. Crumble
the yeast into one and add the salt to the other.
Pull a little dough across the top of the wells
so that the yeast and salt begin to dissolve.

44
Kneading Dough in a Stand Mixer

Ingredients Equipment
1½ cups (340 g/340 ml) water Stand mixer + dough hook
4 cups + 2 tbsp Instant-read thermometer
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) flour
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
13/,stsp (9 g) salt

CHEFS'NOTES

To determine whether the dough has been

sufficiently kneaded, touch it lightly with the
back of your hand. If it sticks, it means the flour
has not absorbed all the water and the dough
Place the water and flour in the bowl
needs additional kneading.
of the stand mixer.

l .
..

Crumble in the yeast and add the salt. Knead on
low speed for about 5 minutes, until the dough
is smooth and no longer sticky. Continue kneading
for an additional 5-8 minutes on high speed
to develop the gluten network.
At the end of the kneading process, the dough
temperature should not exceed 75°F (24°C).
To check for adequate gluten development,
stretch a piece of dough until it is paper thin and
light can be seen through it (windowpane test).
If it does not tear, it is ready.

45
BREAD

Kneading Dough by Hand

Ingredients
l½ cups (340 g/340 ml) water
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
4 cups + 2 tbsp (l lb. 2 oz./500 g) flour

Equipment
Mixing bowl
Whisk
Bowl scraper
Instant-read thermometer

Place the water and salt in the mixing bowl and

crumble in the yeast. Whisk until the salt and yeast
dissolve.

Add the flour and mix it in using your fingertips

until well combined. You can use the bowl scraper
to help.
Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface. Fold the stretched dough over itself and
Begin kneading by stretching the dough upward knead again.
and outward.

Repeat stretching and folding the dough until it

is supple and elastic. At the end of the kneading
process, the dough temperature should not
exceed 75°F (24°C). To check for adequate gluten
development, stretch a piece of dough until
it is paper thin and light can be seen through
it (windowpane test). If it does not tear, it is ready.

47
BREAD

Folding Dough
Ingredients
Bread or viennoiserie dough
Flour for dusting

Place the dough on a floured work surface. Fold the bottom third of the dough up like a letter
Using your hands, deflate the dough and press it (the bottom part should now be the same size
into a rectangle. as the top part). Press down gently to seal the two
parts together.

Fold the top of the dough over to cover Check the strength of the dough by applying
the bottom part. pressure with your fingertips. If the finger marks
disappear, the dough is strong enough and does
not need to be folded again (proceed to step 7).
 -

If the finger marks do not disappear, perform Press down gently to seal the two parts together.
another fold: repeat steps 1-4, but work from
the left to the right of the dough instead of top
to bottom.

Place the dough in a bowl lined with plastic wrap

and cover until ready to use.

49
BREAD

Shaping Dough into a Boule

Ingredients
Dough

CHEFS'NOTES

• The dough has sufficient strength

if your fingertips do not leave a mark
when pressed on the surface.

•To make a large boule, perform the same

turning action using two hands: both little
fingers should cup the dough at its base
as you rotate it.

Flatten the dough using the palm of your hand.

Pull up one side of the dough to make a flap and Turn the boule over and roll it against the work
fold this toward the center. The flap should be surface. Your thumb and little finger should touch
twice as long as the rest of the dough. Pull up the work surface and cup the dough gently at its
a corner of the first fold and fold it toward base as you rotate it to make it smooth and taut.
the center. Continue around the dough. Make
7-8 folds for each boule, as the goal is to have as
many as possible to give the dough strength.

so
Shaping Dough into a Baguette

Ingredients
Baguette dough (see recipes pp. 128-33)
Flour for dusting

Place the baguette dough on a floured surface.

Using the palm of your hand, flatten it to remove
air bubbles and give it an elongated shape.

CHEFS'NOTES

You can use the same method

to shape ficelles and batards.
• Ficelles are thin baguettes. Use half as much
dough and make the shape twice as thin but
the same length as a standard baguette.

• Batards are essentially short baguettes.

Use the same quantity of dough but make
the shape half as long as a standard baguette.

Fold the top edge of the dough inward like a letter

and press gently to seal. This folded part should
be two-thirds of the width of the baguette.

51
BREAD

Shaping Dough into a Baguette (conUnued)

Flatten the dough well using the palm of your Fold the bottom edge of the dough inward like
hand to remove any air bubbles. a letter and press down gently to seal. Flatten well
again using the palm of your hand.

Fold the dough in half to make a seam. Place your Gently roll the dough against the work surface
left thumb on the left end of the dough in the to make tapered ends.
center to serve as a pivot. With your other hand,
fold the dough over your thumb, pressing down
gently on the seam of the fold to seal well.
Continue in the same way working to the right
end of the dough.

52
 ,
Shaping Dough into an Epi (Wheat Stalk)

Ingredients
Dough with a short proofing time,
shaped into baguettes (see technique p. 51)
and proofed

Equipment
Scissors

CHEFS'NOTES

This shape is quite fragile and breaks easily,

so take care when removing the baked loaf
from the oven.

At the end of the proofing time, when the dough

is ready to bake, start near one end of a baguette
and make a deep cut about three-quarters of the
way into the dough at a 45-degree angle, using
the scissors .

Fold the cut piece out to the side like a kernel of

wheat, keeping the scissors in place to prevent the
dough from fusing back together. Repeat every
11/2-2 1/2 in. (4-6 cm), folding out the pieces on
alternate sides, to obtain a complete wheat stalk.

53
BREAD

Scoring Baguettes

Ingredients (for a 12-in./30-cm baguette)

Baguette dough (see recipes pp. 128 and 132),
shaped (see technique p. 51) and proofed

Equipment
Bread lame

CHEFS'NOTES

The number of cuts depends

on the length of the baguette:

4 in. (10 cm) and over - l cut

8 in. (20 cm) and over - 2 cuts
12 in. (30 cm) and over - 3 cuts
16 in. (40 cm) and over - 4 cuts
20 in. (50 cm) and over = 5 cuts

,.

At the end of the proofing time, when the dough Using the blade side, go over the marks you made
is ready to bake, use the back side of the lame in the first step. Keep the lame completely straight
to mark a diagonal line on the dough, about 5 in. and cut about l/4 in. (5 mm) into the dough.
(12 cm) long. About a third of the way down the
dough, make a second mark parallel to the first.
Repeat for the third and final mark.

54
Scoring Boules

I
• •

Ingredients
At the end of the proofing time, when the dough is ready to bake, dust
Dough shaped into boules
(see techni9ue p. 50) and proofed the boules evenly with flour. Using the lame, make a straight cut across
Flour for dusting the center of each boule from one side to the other. Starting from the
center, make perpendicular cuts on either side of this line to form a cross.
Equipment Make diagonal slashes in each quarter.
Bread lame

CHEFS'NOTES

Make sure you never cut twice in the same place

(in the center of the cross, for instance), because the dough
will open up too much during baking.

55
BREAD

Scoring Dough with a Chevron Cut

Ingredients
Dough that does not rise significantly,
such as whole wheat, rye, or maslin, shaped
Flour for dusting
After shaping the dough, dust it evenly with flour. Using the lame, make
deep parallel cuts in the dough in a chevron pattern. Take care to leave
about a finger's width of uncut space down the center of the dough.

Equipment
Bread lame

56
Scoring Dough with Diagonal Slashes

Ingredients
After shaping the dough, dust it evenly with flour. Using the lame, make
Porous, fragile dough, such as rye
or whole wheat, or aough relatively deep parallel diagonal cuts across the dough at a 45-degree
for a Vienna-style bread, shaped angle, making sure the cuts are evenly spaced.
Flour for dusting

Equipment
Bread lame

CHEFS'NOTES

If the slashes are far apart, you can make them deeper
so that the pattern stands out more after baking.

57
BREAD

Scoring Dough with a Crosshatch

Polka) Cut

Ingredients
Porous, fragile, little-kneaded dough,
principally levain, or doughs such as rye
or whole wheat, shaped and proofed
Flour for dusting
At the end of the proofing time, when the dough is ready to bake, dust it
evenly with flour. Using the lame, make parallel diagonal cuts across the
bread in one direction, then repeat in the opposite direction to obtain
equal-sized diamonds.

Equipment
Bread lame

CHEFS'NOTES

The deeper the cut, the Aatter the bread will be after baking.
Shallower cuts will produce a more rounded loaf.

58
Baking Bread in a Dutch Oven

Ingredients Equipment
About 2 lb. 4 oz. (l kg) 12 x 8-in. (30 x 20-cm)
traditional or rustic sourdough standard oval cast-iron
baguette dough (see recipes p. 128 or enamel Dutch oven
andp. 130, respectively), shaped into
a boule or batard, depending
on the shape of your Dutch Cooking
oven, and proofed 45-50 minutes
Flour

CHEFS'NOTES

The Dutch oven evenly distributes heat

and the lid traps steam inside, so it is not
necessary to add any extra steam. It is an
effective way to approximate the conditions
Preheat the oven to S00°F (260°C/Gas Mark 10)
of a professional oven in a domestic oven.
with the covered Dutch oven inside.
Place the dough on a piece of parchment paper.
Dust it with flour and score it as you wish.

Carefully remove the hot Dutch oven,
lift off the lid using oven mitts, and place the
dough inside, still on the parchment paper.
Put the lid back on and place in the oven,
without adding steam. Bake for 30 minutes.
Remove the lid and continue to bake
for 15-20 minutes, or until the crust is deeply
golden and the loaf makes a hollow sound when
tapped on the bottom. Immediately remove
the bread from the Dutch oven and let it cool
completely on a rack at room temperature.

59
62 LAMINATING BUTTER
64 MAKING A SINGLE TURN IN PUFF PASTRY
65 MAKING A DOUBLE TURN IN PUFF PASTRY
66 CLASSIC PUFF PASTRY
70 INVERSEPUFF PASTRY
74 YEASTEDPUFF PASTRY
77 CROISSANTS
79 CHOCOLATE CROISSANTS
81 RAISIN SWIRLS
85 APPLE TURNOVERS
87 PALMIERS
90 BRIOCHE DOUGH
92 LARGE PARISIANBRIOCHE
96 INDIVIDUAL PARISIANBRIOCHES
98 BRIOCHE CROWN
102 SHAPING A SINGLE-STRANDBRAID
104 SHAPING A TWO-STRAND BRAID
106 SHAPING A THREE-STRANDBRAID
108 MILK BREAD ROLLS
VIENNOISERIE

Laminating Butter

Active time Equipment

5 minutes Parchment paper
Rolling pin
Chilling time
15 minutes Ingredients
Butter, preferably 84% fat
Storage (see Chefs' Notes p. 63)
Flour for dusting
Up to 12 hours

CHEFS'NOTES

This butter is known in French

Fold a piece of parchment paper measuring
as beurre de tourage.
12 x 16 in. (30 x 40 cm) in half lengthwise to obtain
an 8 x 12-in. (20 x 30-cm) rectangle.

'

Fold this rectangle in three to create a 4 x 8-in. Unfold the paper and place the butter in one
(10 x 20-cm) rectangle, creasing the folds well. of the rectangles toward the center.

62
 CHEFS' NOTES

You will need one-third of the weight of the dough in butter.

For instance, if you have l lb. (450 g) dough, you'll need l stick+ 2 tbsp (5.25 oz./150 g) butter.

Dust the butter with flour and pound with a rolling Refold the paper around the butter, following
pin to flatten. The butter should come within the creases.
about 1/4 in. (5 mm) of the fold markings, without
going beyond them.

Roll the butter until it fills the parchment rectangle Chill the butter for at least 15 minutes
and is uniformly thick. before using.

63
VIENNOISERIE

tvlaking a Single Turn in Puff Pastry

Ingredients
Puff pastry dough (see technique p. 66) and flour for dusting

..

Dust the work surface very lightly with flour. Fold the bottom third of the dough upward, then
Roll the dough into a rectangle that is roughly fold the top third down over the top.
three times as long as it is wide.

The dough is now folded in three, which is known

as a single turn.
Making a Double Turn in Puff Pastry

Ingredients
Puff pastry dough (see technique p. 66) and flour for dusting

...

CHEFS'NOTES

• Mark the dough lightly with your finger

for each turn so you can keep track of how
many turns you have made.

• This folding technique is also called

a "wallet" turn (tour portefeuille).

Dust the work surface very lightly with flour.

Roll the dough into a rectangle that is roughly
three times as long as it is wide.

Fold the shorter ends of the dough inward, Fold the dough in half. The dough is now folded
one-third of the way down from the top and in four, which is known as a double turn.
two-thirds of the way up from the bottom.

65
VIENNOISERIE

Classic Puff Pastry

Makes l lb. 5 oz. (600 g) Ingredients

Water dough (detrempe)
Active time l tsp (5 g) salt
2 hours ½ cup (125 g/125 ml) water
2 cups (9 oz./250 g) strong
white bread flour (T65), sifted
Chilling time
About l¾ hours 2 tbsp (25 g) butter, melted
and cooled

Storage
l¾ sticks (7 oz./200 g) butter,
Up to 3 days in the refrigerator, preferably 84% butterfat,
well wrapped well chilled

In a mixing bowl, mix together the salt and water.

Add the flour and melted butter.

CHEFS'NOTES

• If you add a dash of white vinegar

to the water when making the initial dough,
it will prevent oxidation and extend
the storage time by several days.

• Mark the dough lightly with your finger

for each turn so you can keep track of
how many turns you have made.

Using a pastry scraper, work the ingredients

together until they form a dough, taking care
not to overwork it. This water dough is known
as the detrempe.

66
Gather the dough together and shape it into Using a knife, cut a criss-cross pattern in the
a ball. dough to relax it.

Cover in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator Using a rolling pin, soften the butter containing
for at least 20 minutes. 84% fat, which is to be incorporated into
the dough during the folding process. Shape the
butter into a square-it should still be cold but
needs to be as malleable as the dough you have
just made (see technique p. 62).
C+

67
VIENNOISERIE

Classic Puff Pastry (,="""ed)

Roll out the dough so it is twice as long as the Place the butter on the dough and wrap
square of butter. the dough around it to enclose it completely .

..

Dust the work surface very lightly with flour Fold the dough in three: this is known as a single
and roll the dough into a rectangle measuring turn (see technique p. 64). Rotate the folded dough
10 x 24 in. (25 x 60 cm). 90° to the right.

68
 I

Roll out the dough again and fold in three, giving Place the chilled dough on the floured work
it another single turn. Cover the folded dough surface, making sure the flap is on one side.
with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for
30-40 minutes. At this stage, the dough has been
given 2 turns.

CHEFS'NOTES

• As a general rule, puff pastry needs

to be given 5 or 6 turns. For the optimum rise,
give the dough 5 turns.

• Puff pastry made with 4 turns can be used

for puff-pastry straws, while 6 turns
are needed for vol-au-vents.

-
Repeat steps 9-12, so the dough has been
given 4 turns. Repeat steps 9-10 for the 5th
and final turn. Cover in plastic wrap and chill
for 30-40 minutes before using.
VIENNOISERIE

Inverse Puff Pastry

Makes 2 lb. (900 g) Ingredients

Beurre manie
Active time 1 cup (4.5 oz./130 g) flour
2 hours 3½ sticks (14 oz./400 g) butter,
preferably 84% butterfat,
well chilled
Chilling time
Water dough (detrempe)
About 2¾ hours
2 cups plus 2 tbsp
(9.5 oz./270 g) strong white
Storage bread flour (T65)
Up to 4 days in the refrigerator, ½ cup plus 1 tbsp
well wrapped (140 g/140 ml) water
11/.s tsp (6 g) salt

Work the flour and butter together with your

hands to make the beurre manie (the French term
for a flour and butter paste).

-
-

Roll the beurre manie into a rectangle, cover with

plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator for about
20 minutes.

70
 -
'

• I

•'
..

To make the water dough, shape the flour into Working with your fingertips, gradually draw
a mound on a cool surface and make a well in the flour into the well so it absorbs the water.
the center. Pour the water into the well and add
the salt.

•
/
- ..

Using a pastry scraper, work the ingredients Gather the dough together and shape into a ball.
together to make a smooth dough. Make criss-cross cuts in the top of the dough with
a knife to relax it. Cover with plastic wrap and chill
for about 20 minutes.

C+

71
VIENNOISERIE

Inverse Puff Pastry (,oo,;nued)

-
•

Roll the dough into a rectangle measuring
8 x 12 in. (20 x 30 cm). Soften the beurre manie
with a rolling pin and roll into a rectangle the same
width but twice the length of the dough (see Chefs'
Notes p. 73). Place the dough on the beurre manie.
Enclose the dough by folding the beurre manie
over it, pressing down firmly on all sides to seal
the edges.

Lightly dust the work surface with flour. Fold the dough in four to make a double turn
Roll the dough into a rectangle measuring (see technique p. 65). Cover in plastic wrap and chill
10 x 24 in. (25 x 60 cm). for 30-40 minutes.

72
 -

Place the dough on a floured work surface, making
sure the flap is on one side. Roll it out and fold in
four again. At this stage, the dough has undergone
4 turns. Cover in plastic wrap and chill for 30-
40 minutes.
Making sure the flap is on one side, roll out
the dough again and fold in three, to make
a single turn (see technique p. 64). This is the 5th
and final turn. Cover in plastic wrap and chill
for 30-40 minutes before using.

CHEFS'NOTES

It is important that the butter

stays cold but has the same malleability
as the water dough (detrempe).

73
VIENNOISERIE

Yeasted Puff Pastry

Makes l lb. 5 oz. (600 g) Ingredients

Water dough (detrempe)
Active time l cup (4.25 oz./125 g)
2 hours all-purpose flour (gruau)
l cup (4.25 oz./125 g) strong
white bread flour (T65)
Rising time
Generous½ cup (135 g/135 ml}
15 minutes water at 39°F (4°C)
l tbsp (15 g) milk powder
Freezing time 2½ tbsp (l oz./30 g) sugar
l hour 15 minutes 2 tsp (10 g) butter
0.5 oz. (12 g) fresh yeast
Chilling time l tsp (5 g) salt
15 minutes
l stick + 2 tbsp (5.25 oz./150 g)
Storage {water dough, before butter, preferably 84%
adding laminated butter) butterfat, well chilled
Up to 12 hours, well covered
in plastic wrap
Knead all the water dough ingredients together
Equipment in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
Stand mixer+ dough hook until well combined.
Instant-read thermometer

Increase the speed to high and knead until

the dough is smooth and elastic. The dough
temperature should be 70°F-73°F (21°C-23°C).
Shape the dough into a ball, cover with plastic
wrap, and let rise for 15 minutes at room
temperature.

74
Roll the dough into a rectangle measuring Roll the 84% butter into a 6 ><8-in. (15 ><20-cm)

8 ><12 in. (20 ><30 cm), with a thickness of 1/4 in. rectangle (see technique p. 62). Chill for 15 minutes,
(6 mm). Cover with plastic wrap and freeze then place the butter in the center of the chilled
for 30 minutes. dough.

Fold the dough over to enclose the butter Using a knife, make a vertical cut on each side
completely. of the dough.

75
VIENNOISERIE

Yeasted Puff Pastry (conHnoed)

Roll the dough into an 8 x 24-in. (20 x 60-cm) Fold the shorter ends of the dough toward the
rectangle, with a thickness of 1/4 in. (6 mm). center, two-thirds of the way up from the bottom
and one-third of the way down from the top.

Fold the dough in half to make a double turn. Make a vertical cut on each side of the dough,
Freeze for 15 minutes. then repeat steps 7 to 9. Freeze for 30 minutes
before using.

76
Croissants

Makes 8 Ingredients
1 lb. 5 oz. (600 g) yeasted puff
pastry dough (see technique p. 74)
Active time
15 minutes
Egg wash
1 egg
Proofing time
2-2½ hours 1 egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole milk

Chilling time (optional)

5 minutes

Cooking time
15 minutes

Storage
A few hours in a paper bag
or wrapped in a clean dish
towel
Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/s in. (4 mm)
Equipment and cut out a 12 x 161/2-in. (30 x 40-cm) rectangle.
Chef's knife Cut into 4 rectangles with 4-in. (10-cm) bases.
Pastry brush

Cut each rectangle in half diagonally Roll each triangle up from the base to the tip,
to obtain triangles. taking care not to press too hard and squash
the dough.

C+

77
VIENNOISERIE
C ro issa nts (continued)
Flatten the tip and tuck it under the croissant
to stabilize it (see Chefs' Notes).
Preheat the oven on fan setting to 340°F (170°C/
Gas Mark 3). Brush again with the egg wash, then
bake for about 15 minutes.
78
Place the croissants on a nonstick baking sheet.
Whisk the egg wash ingredients together and
brush evenly over the tops. Place a bowl of boiling
water in a cool oven (79°F/26°C), place the
croissants above, and let proof for 2-2 1/2 hours.
CHEFS'NOTES
• Flattening the tips and tucking them
under the croissants before proofing and baking
makes them less likely to unwind.
• To firm up the dough after proofing,
you can chill the croissants for 5 minutes
before applying the egg wash a second time:
they will be less fragile.
Chocolate Croissants (Pains au chocolat)

Makes 8 Equipment
Chef's knife
Active time Pastry brush
15 minutes
Ingredients
Proofing time 1 lb. 5 oz. (600 g) yeasted puff
2-2½ hours pastry dough (see technique p. 74)
16 x 3-in. (8-cm) pain au
chocolat sticks
Chilling time (optional)
5 minutes
Egg wash
1 egg
Cooking time
1 egg yolk
15 minutes
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole milk

Storage
A few hours in a paper bag
or wrapped in a clean dish
towel
Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/a in. (3 mm)
and cut out a 12 x 121/2-in. (30 x 32-cm) rectangle.
Cut in half to form rectangles measuring
6 x 121/2 in. (15 x 32 cm).

Place 2 rows of chocolate sticks along one long Start by rolling the top of the dough over the first
edge of each rectangle, leaving 1/4 in. (5 mm) chocolate stick, then roll up the rest.
between the first row and the edge of the
rectangle and between the 2 rows. Cut the dough
vertically after each chocolate stick, to form
8 rectangles measuring 3 x 6 in. (8 x 15 cm) each.
C+

79
VIENNOISERIE

Chocolate Croissants (continued)

Using the palm of your hand, press down lightly
to seal the joint underneath, ensuring it is in
the center. Place the chocolate croissants on
a nonstick baking sheet.
Whisk the egg wash ingredients together
and brush evenly over the tops. Place a bowl
of boiling water in a cool oven (79°F/26°C),
place the chocolate croissants above,
and let proof for 2-2 1/2 hours.

CHEFS'NOTES

To firm up the dough after proofing,

you can chill the chocolate croissants
for 5 minutes before applying the egg wash
a second time: they will be less fragile.

Preheat the oven on fan setting to 340°F (170°C/

Gas Mark 3). Brush again with the egg wash, then
bake for about 15 minutes.

80
Raisin Swirls (Pains aux raisins)

Makes 8 Ingredients
l lb. 5 oz. (600 g) yeasted puff
pastry dough (see technique p. 74)
Active time
15 minutes 6.25 oz. (180 g) pastry cream
(see technique p. 112)
Scant 1 cup (4.25 oz./120 g)
Proofing time raisins, soaked for l hour
l½-2 hours in boiling water or 2½ tbsp
(40 g/40 ml) alcohol
or flavoring of your choice,
Cooking time such as rum, kirsch,
or orange-flower water
20 minutes

Glaze
Storage
1/3 cup (2.75 oz./75 g) sugar
A few hours in a paper bag
or wrapped in a clean dish 3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml) water
towel

Equipment
Offset palette knife
Serrated knife Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/s in. (3 mm)
Pastry brush and cut out a 101/2 x 173/4-in. (27 x 45-cm) rectangle.
Flatten the short end facing you and, using the
offset palette knife, spread the pastry cream in
a thin, even layer over the rest of the dough.

Drain the raisins and scatter them evenly over

the pastry cream.

C+

81
VIENNOISERIE

Raisin sw ir Is (continued)

'

Brush the flattened border of the dough with Ensuring the seam is underneath, cut the roll into
a little water to seal the swirls. Carefully roll 8 slices measuring approximately 11/4 in. (3 cm),
the dough up lengthwise toward you, with the using the serrated knife.
filling inside.

Place the slices flat on a nonstick baking sheet.
Place a bowl of boiling water in a cool oven
(79°F/26°C), place the raisin swirls above, and let
them proof for 11/2-2 hours.
Preheat the oven on fan setting to 325°F (l60°C/
Gas Mark 3). Bake the swirls for about 20 minutes.
For the glaze, dissolve the sugar in the water and
bring to a boil. Remove the swirls from the oven
and brush immediately with glaze.

82
,,
•
Apple Turnovers (Chaussons aux pommes)

MakesS Ingredients
l lb. 5 oz. (600 g) inverse puff
pastry dough (see technique p. 70),
Active time
well chilled
30 minutes
14 oz. (400 g) apple compote
(see technique p. 116)
Chilling time
30 minutes Egg wash
l egg
Cooking time l egg yolk
30 minutes 2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole milk
•
•
., .{
~
(

Storage
Up to 24 hours in a paper bag
or wrapped in a clean dish
towel
'
Simple syrup made with
3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml) water
and 1/3 cup (2.75 oz./75 g)
sugar, cooled

Equipment
Fluted oval-shaped 5 ><6-in.
(12 ><16-cm) cookie cutter Roll the dough into a 7 x 24-in. (18 x 60-cm)
Pastry brush rectangle. Cut out 5 ovals using the cutter.
Paring knife

Using a rolling pin, gently roll the middle part Brush a little water along the edge of the bottom
of each oval to make an elongated shape about half of each pastry oval.
8 in. (20 cm) long, without flattening the edges.

85
VIENNOISERIE

Apple Turnovers <,="""ed'

Place a mound of apple compote in the center of Place the turnovers on a baking sheet lined
each bottom half. Fold the pastry over the filling with parchment paper. Whisk together the egg
and press the edges together to seal firmly. wash ingredients and brush over the turnovers.
Chill for 30 minutes.

CHEFS'NOTES

• Make sure the dough is cold when you work

with it. If it starts to get warm and sticky, place it
in the refrigerator or freezer for a few minutes,
to firm it up.

• You can freeze the turnovers before cooking

them. Bake without thawing, adding 7 minutes
to the baking time.

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/Gas Mark 5). Bake for 30 minutes, until crisp and golden.
Brush the turnovers again with egg wash and As soon as the turnovers come out of the oven,
score an attractive pattern in the dough using brush with the syrup.
the tip of the paring knife.

86
Palmiers

Makes 10 Storage Ingredients

Place the dough on a work surface sprinkled with
Up to 3 days in an l lb. 5 oz. (600 g)
airtight container inverse puff pastry sugar and give it a double turn (see technique p. 65),
Active time
dough, made up sprinkling it liberally with sugar. Give the dough
30 minutes to 2 turns (see
Equipment technique p. 70) a single turn (see technique p. 64), sprinkling it with
Freezing time Chef's knife 2/3 cup more sugar.
(4½ oz./125 g)
l hour superfine sugar

Cooking time
20 minutes

C+
VIENNOISERIE

pa Im ie rs (continued)

Roll the dough into a 6 x 27 1/2-in. (15 x 70-cm) Fold the two short ends in toward the center
rectangle. Using the chef's knife, trim the ends so they almost meet (leave a finger-width gap
to obtain neat edges. between them). Flatten lightly with a rolling pin.

I
\
Fold the dough in half and place in the freezer for Place the palmiers on the baking sheet. Bake for
1 hour. Remove from the freezer and cut into slices about 20 minutes, turning them over after about
about 1/2 in. (1 cm) thick. Preheat the oven 10 minutes, when they are brown and caramelized,
to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4) and line a baking to brown the other side. When baked, transfer
sheet with parchment paper. immediately to a rack to cool.

88
VIENNOISERIE

Brioche Dough

Makes l lb. 5 oz. (600 g) Ingredients

2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
all-purpose flour (gruau)
Active time
30 minutes ½ cup (4.5 oz./125 g) lightly
beaten egg (about 2½ eggs),
well chilled
Bulk fermentation time 1½ tbsp (25 g/25 ml) whole
30 minutes milk
3 tbsp (1.25 oz./35 g) superfine
sugar
Chilling time
1 tsp (5 g) salt
2 hours minimum
(ideally overnight) 0.25 oz. (8 g) fresh yeast
3 tbsp (l.75 oz./50 g) creme
fraiche or heavy cream
Storage
1 stick + 1 tsp (4.25 oz./120 g)
Up to 2 days in the refrigerator butter, diced, at room
temperature
Equipment
Stand mixer+ dough hook
Bowl scraper
Using your hands, roughly combine all the
ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl
of the stand mixer.

..

Using the dough hook, knead at low speed for

5 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and
knead for 15 minutes, until the dough pulls away
from the sides of the bowl, scraping down the
sides regularly. The dough should be elastic.

90
Gradually knead in the butter. When incorporated, Shape the dough into a ball, transfer to a clean
knead for 5 minutes, until the dough pulls away bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let ferment
from the sides of the bowl. at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Give the dough several folds to burst any air

bubbles trapped inside and make the dough
stronger (see technique p. 48). Cover and chill for at
least 2 hours (or ideally overnight) before using.

91
VIENNOISERIE

Large Parisian Brioche

Makes l large Ingredients

(101/2-oz./300-g) brioche
10.5 oz. (300 g) brioche dough
to serve 4 (see technique p. 90)
Softened butter for the mold
Active time
10 minutes Egg wash
l egg
Proofing time
l egg yolk
l½ hours 2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole milk
•

Cooking time
20 minutes

Storage
Up to 2 days

Equipment
6 1/3-in. (16-cm) brioche mold
Pastry brush Cut the dough into 5 squares weighing slightly
under 1.75 oz. (48 g) and l square weighing
2 oz. (60 g).

Fold the corners of the larger square in toward

the center.

92
Once all the corners have been folded in, turn the Roll it against the work surface between your palm
piece over so the seam faces downward. and thumb to shape it into a ball.

Do the same with the other 5 dough squares. Using the pastry brush, thoroughly grease
the mold with the butter.

93
VIENNOISERIE

Large Parisian Brioche (c=U,oed)

Arrange the 5 smaller balls in a ring. Form Carefully transfer to the mold.
a teardrop shape with the larger ball and nestle it
snugly into the center of the ring with the tip
pointing downward.

Whisk the egg wash ingredients
lightly brush over the top of the
a bowl of boiling water in a cool
place the brioche above, and let
11/2 hours.
together and Preheat the oven to 350°F (l80°C/Gas Mark 4)
brioche. Place and heat a baking sheet. Brush the brioche again
oven (79°F/26°C), with the egg wash. Place on the hot baking sheet
proof for about to help the "head" rise and bake for 5 minutes.
Reduce the temperature to 330°F (l6S°C/Gas
Mark 3) and bake for 15 minutes. Immediately turn
out of the mold to stop it reabsorbing any steam.

94
VIENNOISERIE

Individual Parisian Brioches

Makes6 Ingredients
9.5 oz. (270 g) brioche dough
(see technique p. 90)
Active time
10 minutes Softened butter for the molds

Egg wash
Proofing time
l½ hours l egg
l egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole milk
Cooking time
8 minutes

Storage
Up to 2 days

Equipment
Pastry brush
6 ><2½-in. (6-cm) brioche molds

Divide the dough into 6 pieces weighing l oz.

(30 g) each and 6 pieces weighing 0.5 oz. (15 g)
each. Roll into balls.

Using the pastry brush, thoroughly grease the

molds with the butter. Make holes in the centers
of the larger balls to obtain rings.

96
Form teardrop shapes with the smaller balls. Place the brioches in the molds. Whisk the egg
Insert the tips into the rings to make the brioche wash ingredients together and gently brush over
"hea ds." the brioches. Place a bowl of boiling water in a
cool oven (79°F/26°C), place the brioches above,
and let proof for about 11/2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7) When baked, immediately turn the brioches out
and heat a baking sheet. Brush the brioches again of the molds to stop them reabsorbing any steam.
with egg wash. Place the molds on the hot sheet
to help the "heads" rise and bake for 8 minutes.

97
VIENNOISERIE

Brioche Crown

Serves 6 Ingredients
10.5 oz. (300 g) brio~he dough
(see technique p. 90), chilled
Active time
overnight
10 minutes

Egg wash
Resting time
l egg
10 minutes
l egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole milk
Proofing time
l½ hours
Decoration
Pearl sugar
Cooking time
25 minutes

----
Storage
Up to 24 hours in a paper bag
or wrapped in a clean dish
towel
Shape the chilled brioche dough into a ball
Equipment following the technique on p. 50. Let rest
Pastry brush in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
Scissors

Roll the dough into a 10-in. (25-cm) disk and make

a hole in the center using your finger.

98
Slowly stretch the hole to make it bigger, taking Gently fold the inside edge of the hole outward.
care not to tear the dough.

Roll this new sausage-shaped fold under the palm Fold the outer edge of the dough up and over the
of your hand to obtain an even and well-rounded raised ring.
shape. Let the dough relax for a few minutes if it
tears or pulls back too much.

C+

99
VIENNOISERIE

Brioche Crown (continued)

Stretch and roll the dough to shape it into Whisk together the egg wash ingredients and
a crown. Place on a baking sheet lined with brush over the ring. Place a bowl of boiling water
parchment paper. in a cool oven (79°F/26°C), place the baking sheet
above, and let the dough proof for about 11/2 hours .

..

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2). Sprinkle with pearl sugar and bake for
Brush the dough again with egg wash. Using the 25 minutes.
scissors, cut incisions at regular intervals around
the top.

100
VIENNOISERIE

Shaping a Single-Strand Braid

Ingredients
Brioche dough

Place a strand of dough, 16 in. (40 cm) long,

vertically on the work surface and mark lightly
into three roughly equal parts.

/.

Coil the top two-thirds of the strand around

in a circle, making sure the tip rests on the strand.

102
Pass the tip of the remaining third through Holding the rounded end of the loop,
the loop, taking it over then under the strand. twist it to make a figure 8.

Pass the loose end of the dough through Pinch the ends together.
the newly created loop.

103
VIENNOISERIE

Shaping a Two-Strand Braid

Ingredients
Brioche dough

Arrange two strands of dough, each 20-24 in.

(50-60 cm) long, in a cross shape, placing
the vertical strand over the horizontal one.

Fold the left-hand side of the horizontal strand

over the vertical strand, placing it parallel with
and just below the right-hand side of the strand.

104
Fold the original right-hand side of the horizontal
strand over the vertical strand, to form a cross.
Repeat with the vertical strand, folding the top
strand down over the horizontal strand and
placing it parallel with and to the right of the
bottom strand. Fold the bottom strand up over
the horizontal strand.

Repeat steps 2-4 until you reach the end of the Pinch the ends together to finish
strand, following the same order every time. the two-strand braid.

105
VIENNOISERIE

Shaping a Three-Strand Braid

Ingredients
Brioche dough

CHEFS'NOTES

Take care not to make the braid too tight-you

should be able to see the work surface between
the plaits. This leaves enough room for the
dough to expand and prevents it from tearing
when baking.

Place three strands of dough with pointed tips on

the work surface and pinch them together at one
end. With the open ends facing you, place two
strands to the right and the third to the left.

Lift the rightmost strand up and over the second, Pick up the leftmost strand.
and set it down just inside the third.

106
Pass it over the middle strand and set it down just Repeat steps 2-4 until you reach the end.
inside the strand on the right.

Be sure to keep the braid flat. Pinch the ends of the strands together to finish
the braid.

107
VIENNOISERIE

tvlilkBread Rolls(Navettes)

Makes 10 Storage Ingredients

Up to 24 hours in a paper bag 2 cups (9 oz./250 g) all-purpose
or wrapped in a clean flour (gruau)
Active time
dish towel
l hour ¼1cup + l tsp (2 oz./65 g) lightly
beaten egg (about l½ eggs)
Equipment 1/3 cup (75 g/75 ml) whole milk
Bulk fermentation time
Stand mixer + dough hook 2½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g) sugar
45 minutes
Bowl scraper l tsp (5 g) salt
Pastry brush 0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh yeast
Proofing time
Scissors 4 tbsp (2.5 oz./65 g) butter,
l½ hours diced, at room temperature

Cooking time Egg wash

6 minutes l egg
l egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole milk

Decoration
Pearl sugar

Make a brioche dough using the ingredients listed
(see technique p. 90). In step 4, let the dough ferment
at room temperature for 45 minutes, then firmly
flatten to burst any air bubbles. Cut into 10 pieces
weighing l.75 oz. (55 g) each. Flatten to remove air
bubbles. Fold the top two-thirds down, then fold
the bottom two-thirds up. Fold in half to seal.
Roll each piece of dough against the work
surface into 4-in. (10-cm) logs with pointed ends
(known as navettes in French, as they resemble
small boats). Place on a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper.

108
Whisk the egg wash ingredients together and
brush over the rolls. Place a bowl of boiling water
in a cool oven (79°F/26°C), place the baking
sheet above, and let the dough proof for about
ll/2 hours.
Sprinkle with pearl sugar and bake for 6 minutes
until golden.
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7).
Brush the rolls again with the egg wash.
Dip the scissors in water and cut a small wheat
stalk pattern down their length.
109
 •

112 PASTRYCREAM
114 ALMOND CREAM
116 APPLE COMPOTE
118 PRALINE PASTE
120 CHOCOLATE SPREAD
122 BECHAMEL SAUCE
CREAMS AND FILLINGS

Pastry Cream

Makes scant 31/2 cups Ingredients Flavorings

(13/, lb./800 g) Coffee: Add l-1½ tbsp (15-20 ml) coffee
2 cups (500 g/500 ml) whole milk
extract or l tbsp (0.5 oz./15 g) instant coffee
½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g) sugar, divided
to the milk, or steep ¾ cup (2.5 oz./70 g)
Active time 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise ground coffee in the milk, and then strain.
15 minutes
Scant½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g) egg Alcohols: When the cream is cold,
(about 2 eggs) mix in the equivalent of 2-3% of the total
Cooking time 2 tbsp (25 g) cornstarch weight of the cream (about l tsp/5 g).
2-3 minutes 2 tbsp (25 g) flour Chocolate: Mix 1/3 cup (1.5 oz./40 g) 100%
pure cacao paste into the warm cream.
3½ tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g) butter, diced,
at room temperature
Storage
Up to 24 hours in the refrigerator

CHEFS'NOTES

For chocolate-flavored pastry cream, reduce the quantity of flour by 10 to 20% to ensure the cream
is not too compact. The 100% pure cacao paste can be replaced with any chocolate of your choice;
reduce the amount of sugar in the recipe, so that the cream is not too sweet.

• . .

Combine the milk and half of the sugar Meanwhile, whisk the egg with the remaining
in a saucepan. Scrape in the seeds of the vanilla sugar in a mixing bowl until blended and slightly
bean and bring to a boil over medium heat. thickened. Sift the cornstarch and flour into
the egg mixture and whisk until combined.

112
 CHEFS' NOTES

Use this cream for raisin swirls. frangipane,

and various individual cakes and pastries.

As soon as the milk comes to a boil, slowly pour Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and bring
some into the egg and flour mixture, whisking to a boil over medium heat, whisking vigorously.
constantly. This will loosen the mixture and heat it Continue to boil, still whisking, for 2-3 minutes.
a little.

0
.
.,.

Remove from the heat and stir in the diced butter To cool the pastry cream quickly, line a baking
until smooth. sheet with plastic wrap and spread the cream
over it. Press another piece of plastic wrap over
the surface of the cream.

113
CREAMS AND FILLINGS

Almond Cream

Makes scant 1 cup Ingredients

(7 oz./200 g) 3½ tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g) butter,
diced, at room temperature
Active time l/4 cup (1.75 oz./50 g) sugar
20 minutes 3-3½ tbsp (l.5-1.75 oz./45-
50 g) egg (about 1 egg),
at room temperature
Storage
½ cup (1.75 oz./50 g) almond
Up to 2 days in the refrigerator flour
1 tsp (5 g) custard powder
(seeChefs·Notesbelow)
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
½ tsp (2.5 g/2.5 ml) rum,
at room temperature

In a mixing bowl, work the butter with a spatula

until it is very soft and smooth.

CHEFS'NOTES

• The custard powder can be replaced by flour,

cornstarch, or potato starch.

• Use this cream for frangipane,

almond croissants, or as a filling for various tarts,
tartlets, and other pastries.

Add the sugar and beat until light and creamy.

114
Gradually add the egg, stirring until thoroughly Add the almond flour and mix until the cream is
incorporated. smooth. Avoid overbeating, as the extra air beaten
in will make the cream swell up during baking.

CHEFS'NOTES

• When almond cream is used as a filling

(for galettes, almond croissants, tarts, etc.).
the baking time will need to be increased.

• Avoid excessive beating. as too much air

- will cause the almond cream to puff up

during baking.

Add the custard powder, the seeds from

the vanilla bean, and the rum, and mix well.
Store covered in the refrigerator until ready
to use.

115
CREAMS AND FILLINGS

Apple Compote

Makes l lb. 2 oz. (500 g) Ingredients

l lb. 2 oz. (500 g) apples
Active time 2 tbsp (25 g) butter
30 minutes 2 tbsp (25 g) sugar, depending
on the tartness of the apples

Cooking time
8-10 minutes

Storage
Up to 3 days in the refrigerator,
well covered with plastic wrap

Equipment
Vegetable peeler
Paring knife

Peel the apples using the peeler, then cut them

in half and remove the stems.

,
•

Using the tip of the paring knife, cut out the seeds
and core.

116
Cut the apples into approximately 1/2-in. (l-cm) Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat.
dice.

Add the apples and cook until softened (about

5 minutes). Stir in the sugar and continue cooking
until the apples are tender and caramelized (about
3-5 minutes).

117
CREAMS AND FILLINGS

Praline Paste

Makes l lb. 2 oz. (500 g) Ingredients

ll/3 cups (9 oz./250 g) sugar
Active time Scant½ cup (100 g/100 ml)
40 minutes water
4.5 oz. (125 g) blanched
almonds, unroasted
Cooking time
4.5 oz. (125 g) skinned
15 minutes hazelnuts, unroasted

Storage
Up to 2 weeks, well covered
in plastic wrap, in an airtight
container

Equipment
Copper pan
Candy thermometer
Nonstick baking sheet
or silicone baking mat
Food processor Add the sugar to the water in the copper pan,
heat until the sugar has dissolved, and cook
to 243°F (ll7°C): the firm-ball stage.

Add the nuts and stir well using a spatula until the The sugar crystals will stick to the nuts,
sugar becomes opaque and starts to crystallize. so continue cooking and stirring until the sugar
caramelizes and, at the same time, the nuts
become roasted.

118
To check the nuts are sufficiently roasted, carefully When cool, break the caramelized nuts roughly
lift one out and cut it in half. When the mixture into large chunks and place in a food processor.
is ready, transfer it to a nonstick baking sheet
or silicone baking mat.

CHEFS'NOTES

• Take care not to roast the nuts or cook

the caramel for too long, as allowing them
to darken too much will impart an unpleasant
bitter flavor to the praline.

• For extra flavor, add 1/2 vanilla bean

to the cooked sugar with the nuts and leave it
in when you process the praline to a paste.

• You can also add the finely grated zest

of a lemon just before processing.

Process to a smooth paste.

119
CREAMS AND FILLINGS

Chocolate Spread

Makes 6 x 1-cup Equipment

(250-ml) jars Instant-read thermometer
6 x 1-cup (250-ml) jars
Active time
15 minutes
Ingredients
6 oz. (175 g) milk couverture
Setting time chocolate, 46% cacao
1 hour 1 lb. 12 oz. (785 g) hazelnut
praline, 55% hazelnuts
3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g) clarified
Storage
butter
Up to 2 weeks (
)
in the refrigerator

CHEFS'NOTES

Remove the jar of spread from the refrigerator

In a bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering
about l hour before serving,
water (bain-marie), heat the chocolate
to ensure a spreadable consistency.
to ll3°F-122°F (45°C-S0°C), then pour it over
the hazelnut praline .

•
..
\

Using a flexible spatula, mix well to combine. Pour into the jars and let cool before closing them.
Stir in the clarified butter and mix thoroughly Place in the refrigerator to set.
until a smooth texture is obtained.

120
CREAMS AND FILLINGS

Bechamel Sauce

Makes2 cups Ingredients

(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g)
Active time
15 minutes
Storage
Up to 2 days in the refrigerator,
covered with plastic wrap
pressed against the surface
3 tbsp (l.75 oz./50 g) butter
Scant ½ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
all-purpose flour
2 cups (500 g/500 ml)
whole milk
l pinch ground nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Equipment
Whisk
Flexible spatula

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat .

•• •
• •• •
•
• •
• • ..
• • •• • •
••
•
• • •
• •• • ..•
•• •
•
•
•
• •
•
-• •
•

•
•
• ••
•

•
• •
• •

Make a roux by adding the flour all at once,

whisking constantly until no lumps remain.

122
Gradually pour in the milk, whisking continually Remove from the heat, add the nutmeg,
over medium heat to prevent sticking. Cook until and season with salt and pepper.
thickened.

Transfer the bechamel sauce to a bowl to cool it

down, stirring occasionally with the spatula to
prevent a skin forming. Press plastic wrap against
the surface and chill until using.

123
 •
•
•
•• •
•

128 TRADITIONAL POOLISH BAGUETTES • •

130 RUSTICSOURDOUGH BAGUETTES
132 MULTISEEDPOOLISH BAGUETTES
134 COUNTRY BREAD
136 WHOLE WHEAT BREAD
138 RYE BREAD
140 WHITE SOURDOUGH BREAD
142 VIENNA BAGUETTES
-
~

144 SANDWICH BREAD - •

,
I
CLASSIC BREADS

TRAD TONAL POOLISH BAGUETTES

Baguette de tradition sur poolish

Makes 5 baguettes, Ingredients PREPARING THE POOLISH

weighing 7 oz. (200 g)
Whisk the yeast into the water until it has dissolved completely. Whisk in
each Poolish
the flour and salt until well combined and smooth. Cover with plastic wrap
0.05 oz. (l g) fresh yeast,
Active time
crumbled and let ferment for 4 hours at room temperature.
l½ hours
Scant½ cup
(100 g/100 ml) water
Poolish fermentation PREPARING THE BAGUETIE DOUGH
time ¾cup+ 2 tbsp
Knead the flour and water in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
(3.5 oz./100 g) white
4 hours
bread flour (T 65) 5 minutes until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let
Autolyse time Scant½ tsp (2 g) salt rest for 30 minutes-1 hour at room temperature (autolyse). Add the poolish,
30 minutes-1 hour yeast, and salt, and knead on low speed for 10 minutes, followed by 2 min-
Baguette dough
utes on high speed, until the dough is supple, smooth, and elastic. With
Bulk fermentation time 4 cups + 2 tbsp
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white the mixer running on low speed, gradually add the 2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) water,
1 hour
bread flour (T65)
then increase the speed to high until the water is absorbed and the dough
Resting time l¼ cups (300 g/300 ml)
is smooth (bassinage). Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed
water
30 minutes
77°F (25°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment
Poolish (see above)
Proofing time for l hour at room temperature. Fold the dough once halfway through the
0.1 oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
45 minutes-1 hour rise time, after 30 minutes (see technique p. 48). Divide the dough into 5 pieces
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
weighing 7 oz. (200 g) each, and gently shape each one into a ball. Let rest
Cooking tjme 2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) water
(for bassinage) for 30 minutes at room temperature.
20 minutes

Storage
SHA.PING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Up to 24 hours rolled up
Shape each piece of dough into a 12-in. (30-cm) baguette (see technique p. 51).
in a clean dish towel,
or parbake and freeze Place the baguettes seam side down on a floured baker's couche or thick
(seep. 21)
dish towel and pleat the couche or towel like an accordion between them to
Equipment maintain their shape. Let proof for 45 minutes-1 hour at room temperature
Stand mixer+ dough in a draft-free place.
hook
Instant·read
SCORING AND BA.KING THE BAGUETTES
thermometer
Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
Baker's couche (optional)
the oven and an empty heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack.
Heavy-duty baking sheet
or baking stone Preheat the oven to 515°F (270°C/Gas Mark 10) and bring l cup (250 ml)
Bread lame water to a simmer. Transfer the baguettes to a sheet of parchment paper.
Using the bread lame, score the baguettes, making 3 cuts in each (see tech-
nique p. 54). Slide the baguettes, still on the parchment paper, onto the hot
baking sheet or baking stone in the center of the oven and carefully pour the
simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam.
Quickly close the oven door and bake for 20 minutes. If you want a thick,
crisp crust, lower the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C/Gas Mark 6), open
the door to release the steam, and then close it again. Leave the baguettes
to dry for 5-10 minutes. Immediately transfer the baguettes to a rack and
let them cool completely at room temperature.

128
 ..•
•

•
•
CLASSIC BREADS

RUSTC SOURDOUGH BAGUETTES

Baguette rustique au levain T80

Makes 5 baguettes, Ingredients PREPARING THE B.A.GUETIE DOUGH (1 DAY A.HEAD)

weighing 6.75 oz.
Scant 4½ cups Knead the flour and water in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
(190 g) each
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g)
5 minutes until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let
stoneground white
Active time
whole wheat flour (T80) rest for l hour at room temperature (autolyse). Add the levain and salt and
l½ hours
Scant l½ cups knead on low speed for 10 minutes, followed by 2 minutes on high speed,
(350 g/350 m I) water
Autolyse time until the dough is supple, smooth, and elastic. With the mixer running on
2.5 oz. (75 g) young stiff
l hour low speed, add the 5 tsp (25 g/25 ml) water in 3 equal quantities and knead
leva in (see technique p. 38)
until the dough is smooth: it should be soft and supple but not wet. Make
Bulk fermentation time 2 tsp (10 g) salt
sure the dough temperature does not exceed 73°F-75°F (23°C-24°C). Place
l hour + overnight 5 tsp (25 g/25 ml) water
(bassinage) in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room
Resting time
temperature. Fold the dough once (see technique p. 48), cover with plastic wrap,
45 minutes
and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
Proofing time
45 minutes-l hour SH.A.PING A.MD PROOFING THE DOUGH
The next day, divide the dough into 5 pieces weighing 6.75 oz. (190 g) each,
Cooking time
and gently shape each one into a ball. Let rest for 45 minutes at room
About 20 minutes
temperature. Shape each piece of dough into a baguette (seetechnique p. 51).
Storage
Place the baguettes seam side up on a floured baker's couche or thick dish
Up to 24 hours rolled
towel and pleat the couche or towel like an accordion between them to
up in a clean dish towel,
or parbake and freeze maintain their shape. Let proof for 45 minutes-1 hour at room temperature
{seep. 21)
in a draft-free place.
Equipment
Stand mixer+ dough SCORING A.MD BAKING THE BAGUETTES
hook
Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
Instant-read
the oven and an empty heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack.
thermometer
Preheat the oven to 515°F (270°C/Gas Mark 10) and bring 1 cup (250 ml)
Baker's couche (optional)
water to a simmer. Invert the baguettes onto parchment paper and score
Heavy-duty baking sheet
or baking stone them lengthwise down the center. Slide the baguettes, still on the parchment
Bread lame paper, onto the hot baking sheet or baking stone in the center of the oven
and carefully pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower
rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for about 18 min-
utes. If you want a thick, crisp crust, lower the oven temperature to 400°F
(200°C/Gas Mark 6), open the door to release the steam, and then close
it again. Leave the baguettes to dry for 5-10 minutes. Immediately transfer
the baguettes to a rack and let them cool completely at room temperature.

130
 •
• ,r
•
,.•
•
..
CLASSIC BREADS

MULTISEEDPOOL SH BAGUETTES
Baguette aux graines

Makes 6 baguettes, Ingredients TOASTING THE SEEDS

weighing about
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Spread all the seeds over
7 oz. (200 g) each Toasted seeds
a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and toast for about 15 minutes,
3 tbsp (25 g) sesame
Active time
seeds until fragrant and golden. Let cool to room temperature before using.
l½ hours
3 tbsp (25 g) sunflower
seeds
Poolish fermentation PREPARING THE POOLISH
time 3 tbsp (25 g) poppy
Whisk the yeast into the water until it has dissolved completely. Whisk in the
seeds
4 hours
flour, toasted seeds, and salt until well combined. Cover with plastic wrap
3 tbsp (25 g) flaxseed
Autolyse time and let ferment for 4 hours at room temperature.
Poolish
30 minutes-l hour
0.05 oz. (1 g) fresh yeast,
PREPARING THE BAGUETTE DOUGH
Bulk fermentation time crumbled
Knead the flour and water in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
l hour 3/4cup (775 g/175 ml)
water for 5 minutes until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap
Resting time
¾cup+ 2 tbsp and let rest for 30 minutes-1 hour at room temperature (autolyse). Add the
30 minutes (3.5 oz./100 g) white
poolish, yeast, and salt and knead on low speed for 10 minutes, followed
bread flour (T 65)
Proofing time by 2 minutes on high speed, until the dough is supple, smooth, and elastic.
Toasted seeds (see above)
45 minutes-l hour With the mixer running on low speed, gradually add the 2 tsp (10 g/10 ml)
Scant½ tsp (2 g) salt
water, then increase the speed to high until the water is absorbed and the
Cooking tjme
Baguette dough
dough is smooth (bassinage). Make sure the dough temperature does not
20 minutes
4 cups+ 2 tbsp
exceed 77°F (25°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white
Storage
bread flour (T65) ferment for 1 hour at room temperature, folding the dough once halfway
Up to 24 hours rolled
up in a clean dish towel,
11/4cups (300 g/300 ml) through, after 30 minutes (see technique p. 48). Divide the dough into 6 pieces
water
or parbake and freeze weighing 7 oz. (200 g) each, and gently shape each one into a ball. Let rest
{seep. 21) Poolish (see above)
for 30 minutes at room temperature.
O.l oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
Equipment
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
Stand mixer+ dough SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
hook 2 tsp (70 g/10 ml) water
Shape each piece of dough into a baguette (see technique p. 51). Place the
(for bassinage)
Instant-read
baguettes seam side up on a floured baker's couche or thick dish towel
thermometer
and pleat the couche or towel like an accordion between them to main-
Baker's couche (optional)
tain their shape. Let proof for 45 minutes-1 hour at room temperature in a
Heavy-duty baking sheet
or baking stone draft-free place.
Bread lame
SCORING AND BAKING THE BAGUETTES
Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center
of the oven and a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack.
Preheat the oven to S00°F (260°C/Gas Mark 10) and bring l cup (250 ml)
water to a simmer. Place the baguettes on parchment paper and score them
using the bread lame, making three cuts in each (see technique p. 54). Slide the
baguettes, still on the parchment paper, onto the hot baking sheet or baking
stone in the center of the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into
the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven
door and bake for 20 minutes. Immediately transfer the baguettes to a rack
and let them cool completely at room temperature.

132
 •
..
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•
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•.
. •
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• •
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CLASSIC BREADS

COUNTRY BREAD
Pain de campagne

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

weighing 10 1/2 oz.
Scant 3½ cups Knead all the ingredients, except the 5 tsp (25 g/25 ml) water, in the bowl of
(300 g) each
(15 oz./425 ~) white
the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Continue
bread flour (T65)
Active time
kneading on low speed until the gluten network begins to strengthen and the
Scant 3/4 cup
l½ hours
(2.5 oz./75 g) rye flour dough can be stretched easily but tears if stretched too far (about 3 minutes).
Bulk fermentation time ll/3 cups (315 g/315 ml) With the mixer running on low speed, gradually add the 5 tsp (25 g/25 ml)
water
l½ hours water as needed, depending on the consistency of the dough (bassinage):
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
the dough should be soft and supple but not too runny. Make sure the dough
Resting time
0.1 oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
temperature does not exceed 73°F-75°F (23°C-24°C). Cover the bowl with
30 minutes
2.5 oz. (75 g) ripe liquid
plastic wrap and let the dough ferment for 11/2 hours at room temperature,
levain (seetechniquep. 40)
Proofing time
folding it once after 30 minutes (seetechniquep. 48). Divide the dough into
5 tsp (25 g/25 ml) water
l hour
(for bassinage) 3 pieces weighing 10 1/2 oz. (300 g) each, and gently shape each one into a
Cooking tjme ball. Let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
30 minutes
SHA.PING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Storage
Up to 2 days wrapped
Shape each piece of dough into a batard (seeChers· Notes p. 51) and place
in a clean dish towel seam side up on a floured baker's couche or thick dish towel. Let proof for

Equipment
l hour at room temperature, covered with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel.
Stand mixer+ dough
hook BA.KINGTHE LOA.YES
Instant-read Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
thermometer
the oven and an empty heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack.
Baker's couche (optional)
Preheat the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 9) and bring l cup (250 ml)
Heavy-duty baking sheet
water to a simmer. Invert the loaves onto a sheet of parchment paper and,
or baking stone
using the bread lame, score them down the center, then score a chevon
Bread lame
pattern on either side (seetechniquep. 56). Slide the loaves, still on the parch-
ment paper, onto the hot baking sheet or baking stone in the center of the
oven and carefully pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the
lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for about
25 minutes, or until deeply golden. To thoroughly dry out the crust, lower
the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C/Gas Mark 6). Open the door to
release any steam, then close it again and let the bread dry for 5-10 minutes.
The loaves should make a hollow sound when tapped on the bottom and the
crust should be thick and crisp. Immediately transfer the loaves to a rack
and let them cool completely at room temperature.

134
CLASSIC BREADS

WHOLE WHEAT BREAD

Pain complet

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
Scant 4½ cups Knead all the ingredients, except the levain, in the bowl of the stand mixer
11.25 oz. (320 g) each
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) whole
on low speed for 3 minutes until well combined. Cover the bowl with plastic
wheat flour (T150)
Active time
wrap and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (autolyse). Add the
l½ cups (340 g/340 ml)
l½ hours
water levain and knead on low speed for 10 minutes until combined. Increase the
Autolyse time 2½ tsp (13 g) salt speed to high and knead for 4 minutes until the dough is supple. Make sure
30 minutes 0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl,
3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe liquid cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Bulk fermentation time
levain (see technique p. 40)
Divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing 11.25 oz. (320 g) each, and let rest
30 minutes
for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Resting time
30 minutes
SHAPING A.MD PROOFING THE DOUGH (1 DAY A.HEAD)
Proofing time Shape each piece of dough into a batard measuring 7 in. (18 cm) in length
10-12 hours in the (seeChefs' Notes p. 51). Place in the loaf pans with the seams facing down and
refrigerator
dust the tops with flour. Using the bread lame, score the tops with diagonal
Cooking tjme slashes (seetechniquep. 57). Cover loosely in plastic bags and let ferment for
30-40 minutes 10-12 hours in the refrigerator.

Storage
BA.KING THE BREAD
Up to 2 days wrapped
in a clean dish towel The next day, remove the dough from the refrigerator 30 minutes before
baking. Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly
Equipment
below it. Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and
Stand mixer+ dough
hook preheat the oven to 475°F (240°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water
Instant-read to a simmer. Place the loaves in the oven and carefully pour the simmering
thermometer
water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close
3 loaf pans, 3 "7 in.
the oven door and bake the loaves for 30-40 minutes. Immediately turn the
(7 x 18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm)
deep loaves out of the pans and let them cool completely on a rack.
Bread lame

136
CLASSIC BREADS

RYE BREAD
Pain de seigle

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

weighing about
3¾ cups (14 oz./400 g) Knead all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
11.75 oz. (335 g) each
rye flour (Tl30)
8 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead for
Active time 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp
2 minutes. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C).
(3.5 oz./100 g) white
l½ hours
bread flour (T65) Cover with plastic wrap and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Bulk fermentation time l½ cups (340 g/340 ml) Divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing 11.75oz. (335 g) each, shape each
water
30 minutes one into a ball, and let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
2 tsp (ll g) salt
Resting time
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
30 minutes in the
5.25 oz. (150 g) ripe stiff
refrigerator
levain (see technique p. 38)
Shape each piece of dough into a batard measuring 7 in. (18 cm) in length
(seeChefs' Notes p. 51). Place in the loaf pans with the seams facing up and
Proofing time
dust the tops with flour. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or
l hour
place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for l hour.
Cooking time
30-40 minutes
BAKING THE LOAVES
Storage Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Up to 2 days wrapped Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
in a clean dish towel
oven to 450°F (240°C/Gas Mark 8). Bring 1cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
Equipment Place the loaves in the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into
Stand mixer+ dough the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven
hook
door and bake the loaves for 30-40 minutes, until golden. Immediately turn
Instant-read
the loaves out of the pans and let them cool completely on a rack.
thermometer
3 loaf pans, 3 x 7 in.
(7 x 18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm)
deep

138
CLASSIC BREADS

WHITE SOURDOUGH BREAD

Pain blanc sur levain liquide

Makes 2 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD IF PROOFING OVERNIGHT)
weighing about
4 cups+ 2 tbsp Knead the flour and water in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
1 lb. 2 oz. (500 g) each
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g)
3 minutes until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a dish
white bread flour (T65)
Active time
towel and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (autolyse). With the
71/3 cups (320 g/320 ml)
l½ hours
water mixer running on low speed, add the levain in two equal quantities, followed
Autolyse time 3.5 oz. (100 g) young by the salt. Knead on low speed for 8 minutes until well combined. Increase
liquid levain (seetechnique
30 minutes the speed to medium and knead for 2 minutes until the dough is supple and
p. 40)
smooth. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 73°F-77°F
Bulk fermentation time 2 tsp (ll g) salt
(23°C-25°C). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough ferment
2 hours
for 20 minutes at room temperature. Perform one fold (see technique p. 48), let
Resting time
the dough ferment for another 20 minutes, then make a second fold. Perform
30 minutes
the third and final fold 20 minutes later. Let the dough ferment undisturbed
Proofing time for an additional l hour at room temperature. Divide the dough into 2 pieces
2 hours at room weighing about l lb. 2 oz. (500 g) each. Flatten slightly and fold the four
temperature,
corners of each piece in toward the center, turn them over, and gently shape
or overnight
in the refrigerator into balls between your hands. Let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

Cooking time
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD IF PROOFING OVERNIGHT)
20-25 minutes
Flatten the balls of dough to burst any air bubbles, then gently reshape
Storage
each piece of dough into a loose boule (see technique p. 50). Place the boules
Up to 2 days wrapped
seam side up on a floured thick dish towel, or in the bannetons if using. Let
in a clean dish towel
proof for 2 hours at room temperature, or overnight in the refrigerator. For
Equipment
the overnight option, cover with plastic wrap or place the bannetons in
Stand mixer+ dough
loose-fitting plastic bags and seal shut.
hook
Instant-read
thermometer BAKING THE LOAVES
2 x 8-in. (20-cm) round Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center
bannetons (optional),
of the oven and an empty heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom
floured
rack. Preheat the oven to 450°F (240°C/Gas Mark 8) and bring 1 cup
Heavy-duty baking sheet
or baking stone (250 ml) water to a simmer. Invert the boules onto a sheet of parchment
Bread lame paper and score the dough with a zigzag or cross pattern (see technique p. 55).
Slide the parchment paper onto the hot baking sheet in the center of the
oven and carefully pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on
the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for
20-25 minutes, until golden brown. To thoroughly dry out the crust, lower
the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C/Gas Mark 6). Open the door once
or twice to release any steam, then close it again and let the bread dry
for 5-10 minutes. Alternatively, if the bread is already deeply browned,
do this step in a turned-off oven. The bread should make a hollow sound
when tapped on the bottom, and the crust should be thick and crisp.
Immediately transfer the loaves to a rack and let them cool completely at
room temperature.

140
CLASSIC BREADS

V ENNA BAGUETTES
Baguette viennoise

Makes 6 small Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTfE (1 DAY .AHE.AD)

baguettes, weighing
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
about 6 oz. (165 g) each Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes, until smooth. Place in a
½ cup minus l tbsp
Active time
(l.75 oz./50 g) white bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
l½ hours bread flour (T 65)
2 tbsp (30 g/30 ml) PREPARING THE VIENNA BREAD DOUGH
Pate fermentee
water
fermentation time
Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of the stand
0.05 oz..(1 g) salt
Overnight
mixer on low speed for 4 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed
0.05 oz. (1 g) fresh yeast
Bulk fermentation time to high and knead for 4 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. With
Vienna bread dough
45 minutes-l hour the mixer running on low speed, add the butter and knead until completely
3¼ cups (14 oz./400 g)
incorporated {6-8 minutes). Make sure the dough temperature does not
Resting time white bread flour (T65)
exceed 75°F (24°C). Transfer to a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and
15 minutes 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp
(3.5 oz./100 g) let ferment for 45 minutes-1 hour at room temperature.
Proofing time all-purpose flour (gruau)
l¼-l½ hours l egg SH.APING .ANDPROOFING THE DOUGH
Scant 1 cup
Cooking tjme Divide the dough into 6 pieces weighing about 6 oz. (165 g) each. Shape
(230 g/230 ml) water
12-15 minutes into small baguettes (see technique p. 51) and place in the baguette pans. Let
¼ cup (25 g) milk
powder rest for 15 minutes. Whisk together the egg wash ingredients and brush
Storage
2½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g) over the baguettes. Using the bread lame, score with diagonal slashes {see
Up to 2 days wrapped
sugar
in a clean dish towel technique p. 57). Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F {24°C), or place on a
l oz. (25 g) fresh yeast rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for l¼-1½ hours.
Equipment
2 tsp (10 g) salt
Stand mixer+ dough
2.75 oz. (80 g) pate
hook B.AKINGTHE B.AGUETTES
fermentee (seeabove)
Instant-read Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Brush the baguettes
3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
thermometer
butter, diced, at room again with egg wash and bake for 12-15 minutes. Immediately remove the
Baguette pans temperature
baguettes from the pans. Place on a rack and let cool at room temperature.
for 6 half-baguettes
Egg wash
Bread lame
l egg
l egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
milk

142
CLASSIC BREADS

SANDWICH BREAD
Pain de mie

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTfE (1 DAY .AHE.AD)

weighing about
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
12 oz. (330 g) each Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes, until smooth. Place in a
½cup+ l tbsp
Active time
(2.5 oz./70 g) white bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
l½ hours bread flour (T65)
3 tbsp (43 g/43 ml)
Pate /ermentee PREPARING THE DOUGH
water
fermentation time
Knead all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
0.05 oz..(1 g) salt
Overnight
3 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead for
0.05 oz. (1 g) fresh yeast
Bulk fermentation time 7 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure the dough tem-
Sandwich bread dough
45 minutes perature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl,
4 cups+ 2 tbsp
cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 45 minutes at room temperature.
Resting time (1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white
bread flour (T65) Divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing about 12 oz. (330 g) each, and gently
15 minutes
1cup (250 g/250 ml) shape each one into a ball. Let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature.
Proofing time water
l¼-l½ hours Scant¼ cup (25 g) milk
SH.APING .ANDPROOFING THE DOUGH
powder
Cooking tjme Grease the bases and lids of the loaf pans with butter. Shape the dough into
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
25-30 minutes
l oz. (25 g) fresh yeast
batards measuring 6 in. (15 cm) in length (seeChefs' Notesp. 51). Place in the
pans and cover with the lids. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or
Storage 2 tsp (10 g) salt
on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for l¼-1½ hours.
Up to several days 4 oz. (115g) pate
in a well-sealed plastic fermentee (see above)
bag
3 tbsp (l.75 oz./50 g) B.AKINGTHE LOAVES
butter, diced, at room
Equipment Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7) and bake the loaves for
temperature
Stand mixer+ dough 25-30 minutes. Immediately turn them out of the pans onto a rack and let
hook Butter for the pans
cool completely at room temperature.
Instant-read
thermometer
3 Pullman (pain de mie)
loaf pans, 3 x 7 in.
(8 x 18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm)
deep

144
 •

--
 •

I'
• •
•

•
 •

148 RICE AND BUCKWHEAT 182 TWO-TONE

ROLLS SANDWICH BREAD
150 INJERA (GLUTEN-FREE) 184 JAPANESEMILK BREAD
152 CHESTNUT BREAD 186 STONEGROUND BREAD
ROLLS (GLUTEN-FREE) 188 PRETZELS
154 STONEGROUND 190 SPICED BREAD STARS
WHEAT LOAVES 192 EINKORN BREAD
156 MULTISEED 194 SPELTBREAD
WHOLEGRAIN ROLLS 196 BREADSTICKS
158 FRUITAND NUT LOAF 198 CRUMPETS
160 FIG BREAD 200 FLAKY ROLLS
162 OLIVE BREAD 202 FLAKY RYE-WHEAT
164 WALNUT BREAD LOAF
166 BACON ROLLS 204 GARLIC AND CHEESE
168 TURMERIC BREAD NAANS
170 CHOCOLATE BREAD 206 FOUGASSE
172 TIGER BREAD
174 CIABATTAS
176
178
BLACK BREAD
~

HAZELNUT BENOITONS I
,,
180 BUCKWHEAT BREAD
SPECIALTY BREADS

RICE AND BUCKWHEAT ROLLS

Pain au levain de riz et sarrasin

Makes 10 rolls, Ingredients PREPARING THE BUCKWHEAT AND RICE LEV.I.IN

weighing about
Using the ingredients listed, follow the technique for liquid levain (see techni9ue
3.5 oz. (100 g) each Buckwheat
and rice levain p. 40). Let ferment for about 5 hours, or until ripe (tout point).
Active time
2 oz. (60 g) ripe liquid
l½ hours levain-chef (see techniques
PREPARING THE BATTER
pp. 36 and 40 and Chefs'
Fermentation time Notes) In the stand mixer fitted with the paddle beater (as the batter will be quite
(for levain)
cup (80 g/80 ml)
l/3 liquid), beat all the ingredients for 5 minutes on low speed until well com-
About 5 hours water at ll3°F (45°C)
bined. The mixture should have the consistency of a crepe batter. Ensure
½ cup (2.25 oz./65 g) the temperature of the batter does not exceed 86°F (30°C).
Proofing time
buckwheat flour
20-40 minutes
Scant½ cup
(2.25 oz./65 g) rice flour PROOFING THE BATTER
Cooking time
Grease the pans with butter or neutral oil and fill each one with 3.5 oz. (100 g)
40-45 minutes Batter
batter. Wet the dough scraper with water and use to smooth over the tops.
7 oz. (200 g) ripe
Storage
buckwheat and rice Scatter the kasha over half of each roll. Let proof for 20-40 minutes in a
Up to several days levain (see above)
steam oven set to 86°F (30°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a
in an airtight container
0.25 oz. (7 g) fresh yeast
bowl of boiling water, until cracks form on the surface.
Equipment 2½ cups (12.5 oz./350 g)
rice flour
Stand mixer + paddle
BAKING THE ROLLS
beater l cup+ 2 tbsp
(5.25 oz./150 g) Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
Instant-read
buckwheat flour
thermometer the oven and an empty heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack.
2 tsp (10 g) salt
10 oval-shaped pans, Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C/Gas Mark 8) and bring l cup (250 ml)
3 x 5 in. (8 x 12 cm}, Scant 1½ cups
water to a simmer. Place the pans on the hot baking sheet and carefully
l½ in. (4 cm) deep (350 g/350 m I) water
pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create
Dough scraper
Butter or neutral oil
steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for 20-25 minutes, then lower
Heavy-duty baking sheet for the pans
or baking stone the oven temperature to 4l0°F (210°C/Gas Mark 6) and continue to bake
Topping for about 20 minutes to dry the rolls out a little. Immediately turn the rolls
Generous½ cup out of the pans and let them cool completely on a rack.
(3.5 oz./100 g) kasha
(roasted buckwheat
groats)

CHEFS'NOTES

This recipe is relatively low in gluten,

but if you'd like to make it 100 percent gluten free.
prepare a levain-chef using gluten-free flours.

148
SPECIALTY BREADS
INJ ERA (GLUTEN-FREE)
Makes 8 large
(or 16 small) injeras
Active time
l½ hours
Fermentation time
24-48 hours (levain-
chef) + overnight,
or up to 3 days
(refreshing levain)
Bulk fermentation time
2-3 hours+ 2 hours
Proofing time
2 hours
Cooking time
1-2 minutes per injera
Storage
Up to several days
in the refrigerator, rolled
up in plastic wrap
Equipment
Large glass or other
non-reactive container
Bowl scraper
Stand mixer + paddle
beater
Instant-read
thermometer
8-in. (20-cm) skillet
150
Ingredients PREPARING THE GLUTEN-FREE LEVAIN•CHEF (3-5 DAYS A.HEAD)
Gluten-free levain-chef
In a large glass or other non-reactive container, make the gluten-free levain-
¾ tsp (5 g) honey
chef using the ingredients listed (see technique p. 36).
Scant½ cup
(100 g/100 ml) water PREPARING THE REFRESHED GLUTEN-FREE LEVA.IN (1-3 DAYS AHEAD)
at ll3°F (45°C)
In a large glass or other non-reactive container, refresh the gluten-free
3 oz. (85 g) teff Aour
levain-chef using the ingredients listed (see technique p. 40). Let ferment in
Refreshed gluten-free a steam oven set between 86°F-95°F (30°C-35°C), or place on a rack in
levain
a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 2-3 hours. The levain
1 cup (250 g/250 ml)
water at ll3°F (45°C)
should expand and begin to crack on the surface. Cover with plastic wrap
and let ferment in the refrigerator, at least overnight and up to 3 days.
1.75 oz. (50 g) liquid
gluten-free levain-chef
(see above)
PREPARING THE INJERA BATTER
Scant 2 cups
The next day, beat the water, teff flour, and refreshed levain in the bowl of the
(9 oz./250 g) teff flour
stand mixer for 5 minutes on low speed. Make sure the batter temperature
lnjera batter
does not exceed 68°F (20°C). Place a bowl of boiling water in a warm oven
1 cup (250 g/250 ml)
(95°F/35°C) and place the batter above it. Let ferment for 2 hours until the
water at ll3°F (45°C)
surface is bubbly.
Scant 2 cups
(9 oz./250 g) teff flour
Refreshed gluten-free COOKING THE INJERA.S
levain (see above)
Lightly grease an 8-in. (20-cm) skillet with a little oil and warm over high
Neutral oil for the pan
heat. When the skillet is hot, pour in a little injera batter to coat the skillet:
injeras should be about¼ in. (6 mm) thick (a little thicker than crepes, but
not quite as thick as pancakes). Cover the skillet and cook on one side only
for 1-2 minutes until set. Using a large spatula, carefully remove the injera
from the pan and place between two clean dish towels to keep it moist.
Repeat with the remaining batter.
CHEFS' NOTES
In East Africa, injera serves as an eating utensil;
it is used to scoop food off the plate. This bread has
a very sour taste, so feel free to add a little sugar
when serving to temper the tangy flavor.
SPECIALTY BREADS

CHESTNUT BREAD ROLLS (GLUTEN-FREE)

Pain a la chataigne

Makes 10 individual Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

rolls, weighing about
13/4cups (450 g/450 ml) Whisk together the water, honey, vinegar, and psyllium husk powder in a
3.5 oz. (100 g) each
water
bowl. Let rest for 10 minutes. The mixture should have a gel-like consistency.
Active time 2 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
Mix together the chestnut flour, baking powder, salt, oats, and seeds in the
honey
l½ hours
bowl of the stand mixer, then add the psyllium husk mixture and remaining
2½ tbsp (40 g/40 ml)
Resting time apple cider vinegar ingredients. Mix on low speed until the dough pulls away from the sides of
10 minutes Scant 3 tbsp the bowl (it will still be a little sticky). Make sure the dough temperature
(l.5 oz./40 g) psyllium
does not exceed 86°F (30°C).
Proofing time husk powder
l½-2 hours l cup (3.5 oz./100 g)
chestnut flour SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Cooking time
2 tsp (8 g) baking Divide the dough into 10 pieces weighing 2.75-3.5 oz. (80-100 g) each
35 minutes powder
and shape into individual rolls. Set on a baking sheet lined with parchment
l½ tsp (8 g) salt
Storage paper. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a
l¼ cups (3.5 oz./100 g)
Up to 2 days turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 11/2 -2 hours. The dough
rolled oats
in an airtight container
should collapse slightly.
Scant¾ cup
Equipment (3.5 oz./100 g) flax
seeds
Stand mixer + paddle BAKING THE ROLLS
beater Scant¾ cup
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
(3.5 oz./100 g) sunflower
Instant-read
seeds Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
thermometer
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh the oven to 375°F (190°C/Gas Mark 5). Bring 1 cup (250 ml) water to a sim-
yeast, crumbled
mer. Place the rolls on the baking sheet in the oven and carefully pour the
Generous 2 tbsp
simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam.
(30 g/35 ml) neutral
vegetable oil Quickly close the oven door and bake the rolls for about 35 minutes. Transfer
the rolls to a rack and let them cool at room temperature.

CHEFS' NOTES

• Psyllium husk powder gives the dough a somewhat gelatinous

texture, and the resulting bread is soft with a tender crust.

• To boost the flavor oF the flax and sunflower seeds,

lightly toast them in the oven at 325°F (l60°C/Gas Mark 3)
for about 20 minutes before adding them lo the dough.

152
SPECIALTY BREADS

STONEGROUND WHEAT LOAVES

Pain nutrition au levain

Makes 2 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing 15 ox. (425 g)
Whisk together the water and salt in a large bowl until the salt dissolves,
each Dough
then whisk in the levain until diluted. Add the flour and mix it in using your
Scant l½ cups
Active time
(350 g/350 ml) water fingertips until well combined (see technique p. 46, steps 1and 2). The dough will
2 hours
Scant l½ tsp (7 g) salt be sticky. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F-77°F
Bulk fermentation time 0.25 oz. (5 g) ripe liquid (24°C-25°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and
leva in (seetechniquep.40)
2 hours + overnight let ferment for 2 hours at room temperature, folding it every 30 minutes
Seant 4½ cups
for a total of 4 folds (see technique p. 48). After the fourth fold, cover the bowl
Resting time (l lb. 2 oz./500 g)
stoneground white and let the dough ferment overnight at room temperature.
30 minutes
whole wheat flour (T80)
Proofing time
Decoration SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
1 hour
Flour The next day, divide the dough into 2 pieces weighing 15 oz. (425 g) each.
Cooking tjme Shape into balls and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature. Shape
30-40 minutes into baguettes with slightly pointed tips (see technique p. 51). Place them seam
side down on a floured baker's couche or clean heavy dish towel. Pleat the
Storage
couche or dish towel like an accordion between them to maintain their shape
Up to 3 days rolled up
in a clean dish towel and let proof for 1 hour at room temperature in a draft-free place.

Equipment
SCORING AND BAKING THE LOAVES
Instant-read
thermometer Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
Baker's couche (optional) the oven and a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack. Preheat
Heavy-duty baking sheet the oven to 500°F (260°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring 1 cup (250 ml) water to a
or baking stone
simmer. Invert the loaves onto parchment paper, place the rosace stencil
Rosette stencil
over them, and dust with a very thin layer of flour. Using the bread lame,
Bread lame
score lengthwise down the center of each one. Slide the parchment paper
onto the hot baking sheet in the center of the oven and carefully pour the
simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam.
Quickly close the oven door and bake for 25 minutes. Once the crust is
golden, lower the oven temperature to 350°F {180°C/Gas Mark 4), open
the door to release any steam, and then close it again. Continue to bake for
an additional 5-10 minutes to dry out the crust. Immediately transfer the
loaves to a rack and let them cool completely at room temperature.

154
SPECIALTY BREADS

MULTISEEDWHOLEGRAIN ROLLS
Pain nutrition aux graines

Makes 10 rolls, Ingredients PREPARING THE PRE-FERMENT (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing 3.75 oz.
Place all the seeds together in the blender and pulse to lightly crush them,
(110 g) each Pre-ferment
without grinding them to a powder. Add the water and levain. Blend until
Scant 3 tbsp (25 g)
Active time
hulled hemp seeds well combined, transfer to a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let ferment
2 hours
Generous l tbsp (25 g) overnight in the refrigerator.
amaranth grain
Pre-ferment
fermentation time Scant 2 tbsp (25 g)
PREPARING THE DOUGH
nigella seeds
Overnight
The next day, whisk together the water and salt in a large bowl until the salt
½ cup (125 g/125 ml)
Bulk fermentation time water at 95°F (35°C) dissolves, then whisk in the yeast and pre-ferment until well blended. Add
4 hours 0.35 oz. (10 g) ripe liquid the flour and mix it in using your fingertips until well combined (seetechnique
levain (see technique p. 40)
p.46,steps land 2). The dough will be sticky. Make sure the dough temperature
Resting time
Dough does not exceed 75°F-77°F (24°C-25°C). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap
30 minutes
Scant l½ cups and let the dough ferment for a total of 2 1/2 hours at room temperature,
Proofing time (350 g/350 ml) water
performing 5 folds during this time (seetechniquep. 48): fold the dough 3 times
1 hour 2 tsp (10 g) salt
every ten minutes, let ferment for 30 minutes before folding it again, then
0.05 oz..(l g) fresh yeast
Cooking tjme let ferment for an additional 30 minutes before performing the 5th and final
Pre-ferment (see above)
20 minutes fold. Let the dough ferment undisturbed for an additional l hour at room
Scant 4½ cups
temperature. Divide the dough into 20 pieces: 10 weighing 3.25 oz. (90 g)
Storage (l lb. 2 oz./500 g)
stoneground white each (the bases) and 10 weighing about 0.75 oz. (20 g) each (the tops).
Up to 2 days wrapped
whole wheat flour (T80)
in a clean dish towel Gently shape into balls and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Toassemble
Equipment
Poppy seeds ASSEMBLING AND PROOFING THE ROLLS
Blender
Olive oil Shape the larger dough pieces into taut balls (see techniquep. 50) and roll
Instant-read
thermometer the smaller pieces into disks with a slightly smaller diameter than the balls.
Moisten the tops of the disks with a little water and dip them into poppy
seeds to coat. Place seed side down on a clean dish towel and brush around
the edges with a little olive oil. Set on top of the bases with the seeds facing
up and press down gently to seal well. Place the rolls seed side down on
a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let proof in a steam oven set
to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling
water, for l hour.

BAKING THE ROLLS

Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
the oven to S00°F (260°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
simmer. Delicately turn the rolls over on the parchment paper, so the seeds
CHEFS'NOTES are facing up, and place the rolls on the baking sheet in the oven. Carefully
pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create
Soaking the seeds during steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for 20 minutes. Immediately
the pre-ferment fermentation transfer the rolls to a rack and let them cool completely at room temperature.
is important to break them down
and make them easier to digest.

156
SPECIALTY BREADS

FRUITAND NUT LOAF

Pave aux fruits

Makes 1 loaf, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
211, lb. (1 kg) 2¾ cups Knead all the ingredients, except the hazelnuts, dried fruits, and 3 1/2 tbsp
(12.5 oz./350 g) white
(50 g/50 ml) water, in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for 3 minutes,
bread flour (T65)
Active time
until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead for 6 minutes
l cup+ 2 tbsp
l½ hours
(5.25 oz./150 g) white until the dough is supple and smooth. Add the hazelnuts and dried fruit,
whole wheat flour (T80)
Bulk fermentation time and knead for 1-2 minutes until evenly distributed. Gradually incorporate
l½ cups (375 g/375 ml)
l½ hours the 3 1/2 tbsp (50 g/50 ml) water as needed, depending on the consistency
water
of the dough, which should be supple (bassinage). Make sure the dough
Resting time Scant 2½ tsp (12 g) salt
temperature does not exceed 77°F (25°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with
30 minutes 0.1 oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
plastic wrap, and let ferment for 45 minutes at room temperature. Give the
3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe stiff
Proofing time
levain (see technique p. 38) dough one fold (see technique p. 48), cover again with plastic wrap, and let
72-16 hours
l cup (5.25 oz./150 g) ferment for an additional 45 minutes. Perform a second fold, then shape
hazelnuts, chopped
Cooking time the dough into a ball. return it to the bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let
11/4cups (5.25 oz./150 g)
40-45 minutes rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
dried cranberries
Storage l cup (5.25 oz./150 g)
dried apricots SHAPING A.MD PROOFING THE DOUGH (1 DAY A.HEAD)
Up to 2 days wrapped
in a clean dish towel 3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml) Flatten the dough slightly and fold the four corners in toward the center,
water (for bassinage)
turn it over, and shape it into a 10 x 16-in. (25 x 40-cm) loaf. Place on a clean
Equipment
Extra flour, for dusting dish towel, cover loosely with plastic wrap or a dish towel, and let proof for
Stand mixer+ dough
hook 12-16 hours in the refrigerator.
Instant-read
thermometer
BA.KING THE LOAF
Bread lame
The next day, place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack
Heavy-duty baking sheet
in the center of the oven and an empty heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet
or baking stone
on the bottom rack. Preheat the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 10) and
bring 1 cup (250 ml) water to a simmer. Invert the dough onto parchment
paper. Dust it evenly with flour and, using the bread lame, score the top with
a crosshatch cut (see technique p. 58). Slide the parchment paper onto the hot
baking sheet or baking stone in the center of the oven and carefully pour the
simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam.
Quickly close the oven door, lower the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C/
Gas Mark 8), and bake for 40-45 minutes. Immediately transfer the loaf to
a rack and let cool completely at room temperature.

158
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SPECIALTY BREADS

FIG BREAD
Pain aux figues

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTtE (2 DAYS AHEAD)

weighing about
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
14 oz. (400 g) each Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes, until smooth. Place in a
l cup (4 oz./120 g) white
Active time
bread flour (T65) bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
l½ hours
cup (75 g/75 ml)
l/3
water
Pate /ermentee PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
fermentation time ¼ tsp (2 g) salt
The next day, knead all the ingredients, except the figs, in the bowl of the
Overnight 0.1 oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the
Bulk fermentation time Dough speed to medium and knead for 4 minutes. With the mixer running on low
1 hour+ 10-12 hours 3¼ cups (14 oz./400 g) speed, add the figs and continue to knead for an additional 4 minutes until
in the refrigerator white bread flour (T65)
well distributed. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F
Scant½ cup
Proofing time (24°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let fer-
(l.75 oz./50 g) whole
45 minutes wheat flour (Tl50) ment for l hour at room temperature. Fold the dough once halfway through
Scant½ cup the fermentation time, after 30 minutes (s~ technique p. 48). Let ferment for
Cooking tjme
(l.75 oz./50 g) rye flour
10-12 hours in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap.
30-40 minutes
l½ cups (340 g/340 ml)
water
Storage
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
l tsp (5 g) salt
Up to 2 days wrapped
The next day, flour the bannetons and divide the dough into 3 pieces weigh-
in a clean dish towel 0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh
yeast ing 14 oz. (400 g) each. Shape each one into a batard measuring 6 in. (15 cm)
Equipment
7 oz. (200 g) pate in length (see technique p. 51) and place in the bannetons. Let proof in a steam
Stand mixer+ dough fermentee (see above)
oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of
hook
5.25 oz. (150 g) dried
boiling water, for 45 minutes.
Instant-read figs, chopped
thermometer
3 bannetons, 6 " 7½ in. BAKING THE FIG BREAD
(15 ><19 cm), l½ in. (4 cm)
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
deep
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
Bread lame
oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
Invert the bannetons onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and
score each loaf with a crosshatch cut (see technique p. 58). Place the loaves on
the baking sheet in the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into
the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven
door and bake for 30-40 minutes. Immediately transfer the loaves to a rack
and let them cool completely at room temperature.

160
SPECIALTY BREADS

OLIVE BREAD
Pain aux olives

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTtE (2 DAYS AHEAD)

weighing about
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
14 oz. (400 g) each Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes until smooth. Place in a
l½ cups (6 oz./180 g)
Active time
white bread flour (T65) bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
l½ hours
Scant½ cup
(112g/112 ml) water
Pate /ermentee PREPARING THE OLIVE MIXTURE (1 DAY AHEAD)
fermentation time ½ tsp (3 g) salt Combine all the olive mixture ingredients in a bowl.
Overnight 0.2 oz. (3 g) fresh yeast

Bulk fermentation time Olive mixture PREPARING THE OLIVE BREAD DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
1 hour+ 10-12 hours 1.75 oz. (50 g) pitted Knead all the olive bread dough ingredients, except the olive mixture, in
in the refrigerator black olives, roughly
the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined.
chopped
Proofing time Increase the speed to medium and knead for 6 minutes. With the mixer
1.75 oz. (50 g) pitted
45 minutes green olives, roughly running on low speed, add the olive mixture and continue to knead for
chopped
2 minutes until well distributed. Make sure the dough temperature does
Cooking tjme
0.25 oz. (5 g) basil
not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and
30-40 minutes leaves, chopped
let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature. Fold the dough once, then
Scant 2 tbsp
Storage
(25 g/27 ml) extra virgin cover with plastic wrap and let ferment for 10-12 hours in the refrigerator.
Up to 2 days wrapped olive oil
in a clean dish towel
Olive bread dough SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Equipment
4 cups+ 2 tbsp The next day, divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing 14 oz. (400 g) each.
Stand mixer+ dough (l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white
Shape each one into a batard measuring 8 in. (20 cm) in length (see technique
hook bread flour (T65)
p. 51) and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let proof in
Instant-read 11/3 cups (325 g/325 ml)
thermometer water a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a
Bread lame 2 tsp (10 g) salt bowl of boiling water, for 45 minutes.
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
10½ oz. (300 g) pate BAKING THE LOAVES
fermentee (see above) Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Olive mixture (seeabove)
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
Using the bread lame, score each loaf lengthwise down the center. Place
the loaves on the baking sheet in the oven and carefully pour the simmering
water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close
the oven door and bake for 30-40 minutes. Immediately transfer the loaves
to a rack and let them cool completely at room temperature.

162
•
SPECIALTY BREADS

WALNUT BREAD
Pain aux noix

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

weighing about
3 3/4 cups (14 oz./400 g) Knead all the dough ingredients, except the walnut halves, in the bowl of the
13.5 oz:.(385 g) each
rye flour
stand mixer on low speed for 8 minutes until well combined. Increase the
Active time 3/4 cup + 2 tbsp
speed to medium and knead for 2 minutes. With the mixer running on low
(3.5 oz./100 g) white
l½ hours
bread flour (T65), plus speed, add the walnuts and continue to knead for an additional 2 minutes.
extra for dusting Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a
Bulk fermentation time
1½ cups (340 g/340 ml)
30 minutes clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes at room
water
temperature. Divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing 13.5 oz. (385 g) each,
Resting time 2 tsp (11g) salt
shape into balls, and let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
30 minutes in the 0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
refrigerator
5.25 oz. (150 g) ripe stiff
levain (see technique p. 38) SHAPING J.HD PROOFING THE DOUGH
Proofing time
l hour
1¼ cups (5.25 oz./150 g) Shape each piece of dough into a batard measuring 7 in. (18 cm) in length
walnut halves
(see technique p. 51). Place in the loaf pans with the seams facing down and
Cooking time
dust the tops with flour. Using the bread lame, score the tops with diagonal
30-40 minutes
slashes (see technique p. 57). Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or
Storage time place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 1hour.
Up to 3 days wrapped
in a clean dish towel
BJ.KING THE LOAVES
Equipment Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Stand mixer+ dough Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
hook
oven to 475°F (240°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
Instant-read
Place the loaves in the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into
thermometer
the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven
3 loaf pans, 3 "7 in.
(7 "18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm) door and bake the loaves for 30-40 minutes. Immediately turn the loaves
deep
out of the pans and let them cool completely on a rack.
Bread lame

164
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•
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SPECIALTY BREADS

BACON ROLLS
Pains aux lardons

Makes 9 rolls, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

weighing about
Knead the bread flour, whole wheat flour, and water in the bowl of the stand
3.5 oz. (100 g) each Dough
mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
Active time
white bread flour (T65) with a dish towel and let rest for 30 minutes-1 hour at room temperature
l½ hours
21/,4cups (9 oz./250 g) (autolyse). Add the levain, yeast, and salt and knead on low speed for 5 min-
white whole wheat flour
Autolyse time utes, then increase the speed to high and knead for 3 minutes until the dough
(T80)
30 minutes-1 hour is smooth. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 77°F (25°C).
Scant l½ cups
(330 g/330 ml) water Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let the dough ferment
Bulk fermentation time
3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe liquid for l hour at room temperature, folding it once after 30 minutes (see technique
1 hour
levain (see technique p. 40)
p. 48). Divide the dough into 9 pieces weighing 3.5 oz. (100 g) each. Flatten
Resting time 0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
each piece into an approximate 3 x 4-in. (8 x 10-cm) rectangle, then fold in
30 minutes l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
half lengthwise to obtain 9 rectangles measuring 11/2 x 4 in. (4 x 10 cm) each.
Proofing time Bacon topping Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes.
1 hour 7 oz. (200 g) smoked
bacon, thinly sliced
PREPARING THE BACON
Cooking time crosswise (lardons)
To remove excess grease from the bacon, cook it in boiling water for a few
14 minutes
minutes or fry it briefly in a hot skillet. Drain on paper towel and let cool.
Storage
Up to 24 hours wrapped
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE ROLLS
in a clean dish towel
Gently shape the pieces of dough into balls and scatter the lardons over
Equipment
the top. Shape into small baguettes (see technique p. 51) and place seam side
Stand mixer+ dough
down on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let proof for 1 hour at
hook
room temperature in a draft-free place.
Instant-read
thermometer
Bread lame SCORING AND BAKING THE ROLLS
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
oven to S00°F (260°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring 1cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
Using the bread lame, score each roll lengthwise down the center-be sure
to cut deeply enough to expose the bacon. Place in the oven and carefully
pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create
steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake the rolls for 14 minutes. Take
care not to overcook them to ensure they remain soft. Immediately transfer
the rolls to a rack and let them cool slightly at room temperature. Serve
warm with a good aperitif.

166
SPECIALTY BREADS

TURMERIC BREAD
Pain au curcuma

Makes 2 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

weighing about
Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low
13 oz. (370 g) each Dough
speed for 8 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and
Generous 1 tbsp (10 g)
Active time
ground turmeric knead for 2 minutes. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed
l½ hours
3½ cups (15 oz./420 g) 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment
white bread flour (T65)
Bulk fermentation time for 1 hour at room temperature. Fold the dough once halfway through the
1 cup+ 2 tsp
1 hour fermentation time, after 30 minutes (see technique p.48). Divide the dough into
(260 g/260 ml) water
l½ tsp (8 g) saIt
4 pieces: 2 weighing 9.5 oz. (270 g) each and 2 weighing 3.5 oz. (100 g) each.
Resting time
Shape the pieces into balls and let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
30 minutes 0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
1.5 oz. (40 g) ripe liquid
Proofing time
levain (see technique p. 40) SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
45 minutes
Roll each 3.5-oz. (100-g) ball of dough into a 7-in. (18-cm) disk. Brush the disks
To finish
Cooking time with olive oil and cover them with poppy seeds. Using the bench scraper,
Olive oil, for brushing
30-40 minutes cut a 4-in. (10-cm) cross in the center of each one. Shape the 9.5-oz. (270-g)
3.5 oz. (100 g) poppy
seeds pieces of dough into balls again, brush them with olive oil, and place seam
Storage
side up in the center of the dough disks. Wrap the dough disks around the
Up to 2 days wrapped
in a clean dish towel balls. Place with the crosses facing up on a baking sheet lined with parch-
ment paper. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F {24°C), or on a rack in a
Equipment
turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 45 minutes.
Stand mixer+ dough
hook
Instant-read BAKING THE TURMERIC BREAD
thermometer
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it. Place
Bench scraper
a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the oven
to 475°F (240°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring 1cup (250 ml) water to a simmer. Place
the loaves on the baking sheet in the oven and carefully pour the simmering
water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close
the oven door and bake the loaves for 30-40 minutes. Immediately transfer
the loaves to a rack and let them cool completely at room temperature.

168
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SPECIALTY BREADS

CHOCOLATE BREAD
Pain au cacao

Makes 6 loaves, Ingredients PREPARIMG THE CHOCOLATE BREAD DOUGH

weighing 7.75 oz.
Using the poolish and dough ingredients listed, prepare the traditional
(220 g) each Poolish
baguette dough with poolish (seerecipep. 128), up to the end of the knead-
0.1oz. (2 g) fresh yeast,
Active time
crumbled ing stage and before bulk fermentation. With the mixer running on low
l½ hours
Scant½ cup speed, add the 0.05 oz. (l g) fresh yeast, cocoa powder, and sugar, then
Autolyse time
(100 g/100 ml) water gradually add the l/3 cup (90 g/90 ml) water. Increase the speed to high
3/4 cup + 2 tbsp
30 minutes until the water is absorbed and the dough is smooth (bassinage). Cut the
(3.5 oz./100 g) white
bread flour (T65) chocolate into approximately 1/2 -in. {l-cm) pieces and add to the bowl. Mix
Bulk fermentation time
Scant½ tsp (2 g) salt briefly on low speed. If it seems to be taking too long to incorporate the
l hour
chocolate, finish mixing it in manually to avoid breaking it into tiny pieces.
Dough
Resting time
Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 77°F (25°C). Place the
4 cups + 2 tbsp
30 minutes (l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white dough in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at
bread flour (T65)
Proofing time room temperature, folding once after 30 minutes (seetechniquep. 48). Divide
11/3 cups (315 g/315 ml)
45 minutes-l hour the dough into 6 pieces weighing 7.75 oz. (220 g) each, and gently shape
water
each one into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes at
Cooking time Poolish (seeabove)
room temperature.
15 minutes l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
0.1oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
Storage
SHAPIMG AMO PROOFIMG THE DOUGH
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) water
Up to 24 hours wrapped
(for bassinage) Flatten each piece of dough to burst any air bubbles and fold the top two-
in a clean dish towel
thirds down and the bottom two-thirds up. Fold in half to seal. Roll the dough
Chocolate flavoring
Equipment
against the work surface, pressing down gently on the ends to make slightly
0.05 oz. (l g) fresh yeast
Stand mixer+ dough
pointed tips. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let proof
hook Generous 1/3 cup
(l.5 oz./40 g) in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above
Instant-read
thermometer unsweetened cocoa a bowl of boiling water, for 45 minutes-1 hour.
powder
Bread lame
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
1/3 SCORIMG AMO BAKIMG THE CHOCOLATE BREAD
cup (90 g/90 ml)
water (for bassinage) Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
7 oz. (200 g) dark Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
couverture chocolate,
the oven to 475°F (240°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
70% cacao
simmer. Using the bread lame, score each loaf down the center lengthwise.
Place in the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into the rimmed
sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven door and
bake for about 15 minutes. Immediately transfer the loaves to a rack and let
them cool completely at room temperature.

CHEFS'NOTES

Take care not to overbake this bread.

Since it is impossible to rely on the color, look for signs
that the exterior is dry, but not hard. It is a light
viennoiserie-lype loaf and should not have a crisp crust.

170
SPECIALTY BREADS

TIGER BREAD
Pain a la biere

Makes 2 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE POOLISH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
Using the ingredients listed, prepare the poolish, swapping out the water
1 lb. (450 g) each Poolish
for beer (see technique p. 42). Let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
Scant l cup
Active time
(225 g/225 ml) blonde
l½ hours beer
PREPARING THE BEER BREAD DOUGH
Poolish fermentation
O.l oz. (2 g) fresh yeast, The next day, knead all the dough ingredients, except the water, in the bowl
crumbled
time
of the stand mixer on low speed for 8 minutes until combined. Increase
l¾ cups (8 oz./225 g)
Overnight
white bread flour (T65) the speed to medium and continue to mix for 2 minutes. Gradually add the
Bulk fermentation time 3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml) water as needed, depending on the consistency of the
Beer bread dough
l½ hours dough, which should be soft (bassinage). Make sure the dough temperature
i:¼ cups (8 oz./225 g)
white bread flour (T65) does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap,
Resting time
Scant½ cup and let ferment for 11/2 hours at room temperature. Fold the dough once
20 minutes + 30 minutes
(l.75 oz./50 g)
halfway through the fermentation time, after 45 minutes (see technique p. 48).
stoneground white
Proofing time
whole wheat flour (T80) Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces and gently shape each one into a ball.
l-ll/4 hours
15.75 oz. (447 g) poolish Let rest for 20 minutes at room temperature.
(see above)
Cooking tjme
O.l oz. (3 g) fresh yeast
30-40 minutes SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Scant½ cup
Roll the dough into balls again, then roll each one out into an 8-in. (20-cm)
Storage (100 g/100 ml) blonde
beer square, with a thickness of¼, in. (5 mm), leaving the corners rounded. Turn
Up to 2 days wrapped
in a clean dish towel 13/4tsp (9 g) salt the squares 45° so the corners are at the top, bottom, and sides (diamond
3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml) shape). Fold the right and left edges in toward the center to form the top
Equipment
water (for bassinage)
corner of an isosceles triangle, then fold the remaining section at the bottom
Stand mixer+ dough
hook Crackle topping into the center to form the shorter side of the triangle. Place the loaves on
Instant-read Scant½ cup a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, with the folds facing downward.
thermometer (l.75 oz./50 g) rye flour
Cover loosely with a towel or plastic wrap and let proof for 1-1¼ hours at
(Tl30)
Offset spatula
room temperature.
Scant 1/3 cup
(85 g/85 ml) water
O.l oz. (2 g) fresh yeast PREPARING THE CRACKLE TOPPING
Scant¼ tsp (l g) salt Stir together all the ingredients until well combined. Let rest for 30 minutes
at room temperature before using.
Decoration
White bread flour (T65)
BAKING THE LOAVES
Preheat the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas tvlark 8-9). Using the offset spat-
ula, spread the crackle topping over the dough triangles in an even layer.
Dust with bread flour, place in the oven on the baking sheet, and bake for
30-40 minutes. Immediately transfer the bread to a rack and let cool at
room temperature.

172
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•
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SPECIALTY BREADS

C ABATTAS

Makes 5 ciabattas, Ingredients PREPARIMG THE DOUGH

weighing 7 oz. (200 g)
Knead the flour and water in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
each Ciabatta dough
5 minutes until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a
4 cups + 2 tbsp
Active time
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white dish towel and let rest for 30 minutes-1 hour at room temperature (autolyse).
l½ hours bread flour (T 65)
Add the levain, fresh yeast, and salt. Knead on low speed for 5 minutes until
71/3 cups (320 g/320 ml)
Autolyse time well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead for 3 minutes until
water
30 minutes-l hour the dough is supple, smooth, and elastic. Gradually add the water and oil
3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe liquid
levain (seetechniquep. 40) for the bassinage stage, kneading on high speed after each addition until
Bulk fermentation time
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast incorporated. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 77°F
2 hours
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt (25°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl lightly greased with olive oil and
Proofing time
cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough ferment for 30 minutes at room
Bassinage
20 minutes
temperature and perform a fold (see technique p. 48). Let ferment for another
2 tbsp+ l tsp
Cooking tjme (35 g/35 ml) water 30 minutes, then perform a second and final fold. Let the dough ferment
12-14 minutes 2½ tbsp (35 g/38 ml) undisturbed for an additional 1 hour at room temperature.
olive oil
Storage
To shape SHAPIMG AMD PROOFIMG THE DOUGH
Up to 24 hours wrapped
in a clean dish towel Fine semolina flour Dust the work surface with fine semolina flour. Scrape the dough out of the
Olive oil bowl onto the semolina flour and sprinkle more over the top. Divide the
Equipment
dough into 5 pieces weighing 7 oz. (200 g) each. Flatten them slightly, then
Stand mixer+ dough
hook wrinkle the tops using your fingertips, in order to form little creases. Place
Instant-read the dough smooth side up on a baking sheet lined with a floured baker's
thermometer
couche or clean dish towel. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or
Bench scraper
on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 20 minutes.
Baker's couche (optional)
Heavy-duty baking sheet
BAKIMG THE CIABATTAS
or baking stone
Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
the oven and a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack. Preheat
the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
simmer. Invert the dough onto parchment paper, then slide the parchment
paper onto the hot baking sheet in the center of the oven and carefully
pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create
steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for 12-14 minutes, or until the
ciabattas are just beginning to color. Immediately transfer to a rack and let
cool completely at room temperature.

CHEFS'NOTES

With a larger particle size than flour, fine semolina makes it easier
to shape wet ciabatta dough. The dough has less contact
with the work surface so sticks less. Semolina also adds crisp
texture to the bread aFter baking.

174
SPECIALTY BREADS

BLACK BREAD
Pain noir

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE SEED, DRIED FRUIT, AND NUT MIXTURE
weighing 1 lb. 6 oz.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Lightly toast the seeds and
(630 g) each Seed, dried fruit,
and nut mixture hazelnuts separately on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper (about
Active time
½ cup (2.5 oz./75 g) 15 minutes each). Place the toasted seeds, nuts, and dried fruits in a bowl
l½ hours hulled sunflower seeds
with the water. Let soak for at least l hour, or overnight, then drain.
Soaking time
½ cup (2.5 oz./75 g)
hulled pumpkin seeds
At least l hour (pepitas) PREPARING THE BREAD DOUGH
(or overnight)
l½ cups (7 oz./200 g) Knead the rye flour, whole wheat flour, water, and salt in the bowl of the
whole hazelnuts
Bulk fermentation time stand mixer on low speed for 3 minutes to combine. Check the dough tem-
7 oz. (200 g) moist dried
l hour perature: if it is below 122°F (50°C), add the fresh yeast and liquid levain,
fruits of your choice
(cranberries, prunes, otherwise wait until it cools to this temperature. Continue kneading on low
Proofing time
apricots, etc.), roughly
speed until well combined. Add the seed, nut, and dried fruit mixture, and
20 minutes chopped if large
knead until evenly mixed in. The dough will be soft and very sticky. Wet the
l cup (250 g/250 ml)
Cooking time
water bowl scraper and use to smooth the surface of the dough. Dust with a little
50-55 minutes
flour to be able to assess how the fermentation is progressing: if the flour
Bread dough
Storage layer is still smooth, the dough has not fermented enough, but if the flour
Scant 3 cups
Up to several days in the (10.5 oz./300 g) rye cracks, the dough is ready to be shaped. Cover with plastic wrap and let
refrigerator well covered flour
ferment for l hour until cracks form, making sure the dough temperature
with plastic wrap
i:¼ cups (7 oz./200 g)
does not exceed 95°F (35°C).
whole wheat flour (TlSO)
Equipment
12/3cups (400 9/400 ml)
Stand mixer+ dough
water at 158°F (70°C) SHAPING AND PROOFING THE LOAVES
hook
2¾ tsp (14 g) salt Grease the loaf pans and coat the bottoms and sides with rolled oats. Wet
Instant-read
thermometer 0.25 oz. (7 g) fresh yeast the bowl scraper and use to divide the dough between the pans, placing
Bowl scraper 7 oz. (200 g) ripe liquid about l lb. 6 oz. (630 g) in each one and filling them about two-thirds full.
levain (see technique p. 40)
3 loaf pans, 7 x 3 in. Cover with rolled oats and let proof for 20 minutes until cracks form on
(18 x 8 cm}, 3 in. (8 cm) Soaked seed, dried fruit,
the surf ace.
deep and nut mixture
(see above}

Flour for dusting BAKING THE LOAVES

Oil for the pans
Decoration
l cup (2.75 oz./80 g)
rolled oats
CHEFS'NOTES
When this black bread is fresh,
the crumb is very sticky and difficult
to slice. It's best to wait until the next
day before serving, as the bread loses
its stickiness over time.
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
the oven to 500°F (260°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
simmer. Place the loaves in the oven on the center rack and carefully pour
the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create
steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake the loaves for 20 minutes,
then reduce the heat to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7) and continue to bake
for an additional 20 minutes. Turn the loaves out of the pans and lower the
oven temperature to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Place the loaves back in
the oven on the center rack for 10-15 minutes to dry the crust (open the
oven door once or twice during this time to release any steam).

176
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SPECIALTY BREADS

/\

HAZELNUT BENOITONS
Benoftons aux noisettes

Makes 16 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

1cup+ 2 tbsp Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Spread the hazelnut flour
Active time
(3½ oz./100 g) hazelnut over a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and toast for about 20 min-
l½ hours Aour
utes until deeply golden; ensure it does not burn as any blackened bits will
¾ cup (3½ oz./100 g)
Toasting time for flour
whole hazelnuts taste bitter. Spread the hazelnuts over a baking sheet lined with parchment
and hazelnuts
3¼ cups (14 oz./400 g) paper and toast for about 15 minutes until dry, crisp, and golden in the cen-
35 minutes
white bread flour (T65)
ter. Let cool and chop finely. Let cool completely before using. Knead the
Bulk fermentation time Scant½ cup
toasted hazelnut flour, bread flour, eggs, 2/3 cup (150 g/150 ml) milk, yeast,
(3.5 oz./100 g) lightly
30 minutes
beaten egg (2 eggs), and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer for 5 minutes on low speed until well
well chilled
Resting time combined. Increase the speed to high and knead for 7-8 minutes until the
2/3
cup (150 g/150 ml)
30 minutes in the dough is supple, smooth, and elastic. Add the sugar and hazelnut oil and mix
whole milk, well chilled
refrigerator until smooth. Incorporate the 3 1/2 tbsp (50 g/50 ml) milk for bassinage as
0.5 oz. (15 g) fresh yeast,
Proofing time crumbled needed, depending on the consistency of the dough: it should be soft and
l½ hours l¾ tsp (9 g) salt sticky. With the mixer running on low speed, add the toasted hazelnuts and
Scant 1/3 cup (2 oz./60 g) cranberries. Increase the speed to high and mix for l minute to ensure even
Cooking tjme
sugar
distribution without crushing the hazelnuts and cranberries. If, at this point,
8-10 minutes
¼ cup (50 g/56 ml)
they are not evenly distributed, finish mixing them in by hand, folding the
hazelnut oil
Storage
dough several times. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed
3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml)
Up to 2 days
whole milk, well chilled 77°F- 79°F (25°C-26°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and
in a plastic bag
(for bassinage)
let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Equipment Scant 1 cup
(3½ oz./100 g) dried
Stand mixer+ dough
cranberries SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
hook
Flatten the dough into a rectangle measuring 9 1/2 x 113/4 in. (24 x 30 cm),
Instant-read
thermometer with a thickness of¼ in. (5 mm). Place on a floured dish towel and let rest
for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Cut the dough into 16 rectangles measur-
ing l¼ x 6 in. (3 x 15 cm) and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment
paper, with the floured side facing up. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F
(24°C}, or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water,
for 11/2 hours.

BAKING THE BENOITONS

Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
oven to 475°F (240°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
Place the beno'ilons on the baking sheet in the oven and carefully pour the
simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam.
Quickly close the oven door and bake the benoitons for 8-10 minutes until
they begin to color. They should remain soft and tender inside. Transfer to
a rack and let cool.

178
SPECIALTY BREADS

BUCKWHEAT BREAD
Pain au sarrasin

Makes 2 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE BUCKWHEAT LEVAIN (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing 1 lb. 2 oz.
Mix all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the dough
(500 g) each Buckwheat levain
hook until well combined. Cover and let ferment in the bowl for 2 1/2 hours
1.5 oz. (40 g) ripe stiff
Active time
levain (see technique p. 38) at room temperature.
l½ hours
½ cup minus l tbsp
(1.75 oz./50 g)
Fermentation time PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
buckwheat flour
2½ hours Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
3½ tbsp (SO g/50 ml)
water at 95°F (35°C) for 15 minutes until well combined. Make sure the dough temperature does
Bulk fermentation time
not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and
30 minutes+ 10-12 hours Dough
in the refrigerator let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature. Perform a fold (seetechnique
23/-4cups
(12.5 oz./350 g) white p.48), cover with plastic wrap, and let rest for 10-12 hours in the refrigerator.
Proofing time
bread flour (T65)
1 hour
ll/3 cups (5.25 oz./150 g)
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
stoneground white
Cooking time
whole wheat flour (T80) The next day, divide the dough into 2 pieces weighing l lb. 2 oz. (500 g)
30-40 minutes
Scant l½ cups each. Shape each piece into an approximate 6 x 8-in. (15 x 20-cm) oblong.
(350 g/350 ml) water
Storage Place the loaves on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, cover loosely
2 tsp (10 g) salt
Up to 3 days with a towel or plastic wrap, and let proof for l hour at room temperature.
0.1 oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
Equipment
5 oz. (140 g) buckwheat
SCORING AND BAKING THE LOAVES
Stand mixer+ dough levain (see above)
hook Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Instant-read Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
thermometer
the oven to 480°F {250°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
Bread lame
simmer. Dust the loaves with flour and score with a crosshatch pattern (see
technique p. 58). Place the loaves on the baking sheet in the oven and care-
fully pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to
create steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for 30-40 minutes.
Immediately transfer to a rack and let cool at room temperature.

180
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SPECIALTY BREADS

TWO-TONE SANDW CH BREAD

Pain de mie bicolore

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTtE (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
12 oz. (340 g) each Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes until smooth. Place in a
½ cup (2.5 oz./70 g)
Active time
white bread flour (T65) bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
2 hours
3 tbsp (43 g/43 ml)
water
Pate /ermentee PREPARING THE SANDWICH BREAD DOUGH
fermentation time Scant¼ tsp (1 g) salt
Knead all the ingredients, except the bamboo charcoal powder, in the bowl
Overnight 0.05 oz. (1 g) yeast
of the stand mixer on low speed for 3 minutes until well combined. Increase
Bulk fermentation time Sandwich bread dough the speed to high and knead for 7 minutes until the dough is supple and
45 minutes 4 cups+ 2 tbsp elastic. Remove the dough from the bowl and weigh out l lb. 2 oz. (500 g).
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white
Place this amount back in the bowl, add the bamboo charcoal powder, and
Resting time bread flour (T 65)
knead on low speed for 2 minutes until completely incorporated. Make sure
30 minutes 1 cup (250 g/250 ml)
water the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Shape the plain dough
Proofing time
Scant¼ cup (25 g) milk and the black dough into two separate balls, place in separate bowls, and
l¼-1½ hours powder
cover with plastic wrap. Let ferment for 45 minutes at room temperature.
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
Cooking time Roll each ball of dough into a 12 x 20-in. (30 x 50-cm) rectangle. Let rest for
25-30 minutes
1 oz. (25 g) fresh yeast 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
2 tsp (10 g) salt
Storage
3 tbsp (l.75 oz./50 g) SHAPING AND PROOFING THE LOAVES
Up to 3 days wrapped butter
in a clean dish towel Grease the bases and lids of the loaf pans with butter. Brush the plain dough
4 oz. (115g) pate
fermentee (see above) with a little water to moisten it and place the charcoal-colored dough on
Equipment
1 oz. (25 g) bamboo top. Roll them up together lengthwise, with the plain dough on the outside,
Stand mixer+ dough
charcoal powder
hook and cut into 3 equal pieces. Place in the pans, seam side down, and cover
Instant-read Butter for the pans with the lids. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a
thermometer
turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 11/4-1 1/2 hours.
3 Pullman (pain de mie)
loaf pans, 3 x 7 in.
(7 x 18 cm), 3¼ in. (8 cm) BAKING THE LOAVES
deep
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7) and bake the loaves for
25-30 minutes. Immediately turn the loaves out of the pans and let them
cool completely on a rack.

182
SPECIALTY BREADS

JAPANESE MILK BREAD

Pain de mie au tangzhong

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE TANGZHONG (1 DAY AHEAD IF FERMENTING OVERNIGHT)
weighing 11.5 oz.
Combine the flour and milk in a saucepan and warm to 140°F (60°C), whisk-
(330 g) each Tangzhong
ing continually until the mixture thickens and forms a paste. Transfer to an
Scant½ cup
Active time
(1.75 oz./50 g) airtight container, cover, and let ferment in the refrigerator for at least 1hour,
l½ hours all-purpose flour (gruau)
or preferably overnight. This mixture is quite gelatinous and may release a
l¼ cups (300 g/300 ml)
Fermentation time little water on the surface.
whole milk
(for tangzhong)
At least 1 hour, or Milk bread dough
PREPARING THE MILK BREAD DOUGH
preferably overnight
4 cups+ 2 tbsp
Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g)
Bulk fermentation time
all-purpose flour (gruau) for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead for
30 minutes
Scant 1/4 cup an additional 6 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure the
(55 g/55 ml) whole milk,
Resting time dough temperature does not exceed 73°F-77°F (23°C-25°C). Cover the
well chilled
15 minutes bowl with plastic wrap and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature.
12.5 oz. (350 g)
tangzhong (see above) Divide the dough into 9 pieces weighing 3.75 oz. (110 g) each. Flatten slightly
Cooking time
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar and fold the four corners of each piece in toward the center, turn them over,
About 20 minutes
1 oz. (25 g) fresh yeast and gently shape into balls. Let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature.
Storage
2 tbsp (25 g) butter,
Up to several days in a diced, at room
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
well-sealed plastic bag temperature
Grease the loaf pans and lids with butter. Flatten the dough balls to burst any
2 tsp (10 g) salt
Equipment 1/16
air bubbles and roll them into 2 x 6-in. (5 x 15-cm) rectangles, in. (2 mm)
Instant-read Butter for the pans
thick. Starting with a short end, fold in 3, like a letter. Rotate the dough 90°
thermometer
clockwise and roll out again into rectangles of the same size. Roll the pieces
Stand mixer+ dough
hook up tightly like jelly rolls and place 3 in each pan with the seams facing down
3 Pullman (pain de mie) and the coils facing the sides of the pans. Put the lids on and let proof for
loaf pans, 3 x 7 in.
1 hour in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven
(8 x 18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm)
deep above a bowl of boiling water.

BAKING THE LOAVES

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Place the covered pans in
the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, until uniformly golden. Immediately
turn the loaves out of the pans and let them cool completely on a rack.

CHEFS'NOTES

The tongzhong method helps to retain more moisture

in the dough. When cooking tongzhong, the starch in the flour
absorbs a significant amount of liquid, locking it in.

Although it has 10% higher hydration, dough made with tongzhong

has a similar consistency to that of a classic sandwich loaf.

Tangzhong-based bread is moister than a standard sandwich loaf

so is softer and stays fresh longer.

184
I

I
SPECIALTY BREADS

STONEGROUND BREAD
Tourte de meule

Makes 2 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
Scant 4½ cups Knead all the ingredients, except the levain and the 3 1/2 tbsp (50 g/50 ml)
1 lb. 3 oz:.(550 g) each
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g)
water for the bassinage stage, in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
stoneground white
Active time
whole wheat flour (T80) for 3 minutes until well combined. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let
l½ hours
l½ cups (375 g/375 ml) rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (autolyse). Knead for an additional
water
Autolyse time 10 minutes on low speed, followed by 2 minutes on medium speed, until
2 tsp (10 g) salt
30 minutes the dough is supple and smooth. Gradually add the 3 1/2 tbsp (50 g/50 ml)
0.1 oz. (2 g) fresh yeast
water as needed, depending on the consistency of the dough, which should
Bulk fermentation time
7 oz. (200 g) ripe stiff
be supple (bassinage). Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed
2 hours levain (see technique p. 38)
77°F (25°C). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let ferment for 2 hours
3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml)
Resting time
water (for bassinage) at room temperature, folding the dough once after 45 minutes (see technique
30 minutes
p. 48) and a second time 45 minutes later. After the final 30 minutes, divide
Proofing time the dough into 2 pieces weighing l lb. 3 oz. (550 g) and gently shape each
12 hours piece into a ball. Let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

Cooking time
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
50 minutes
Flour the bannetons. Shape each piece of dough into a loose boule (see
Storage
technique p. 50) and place seam side up in the bannetons. Place the ban-
Up to 3 days wrapped
netons in loose-fitting plastic bags, seal shut, and let proof for 12 hours in
in a clean dish towel
the refrigerator.
Equipment
Stand mixer+ dough
BAKING THE LOAVES
hook
The next day, place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly
Instant-read
thermometer below it. Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and
2 ><8-in. (20-cm) round preheat the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water
bannetons
to a simmer. Remove the bannetons from the plastic bags and quickly invert
Bread lame
them onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using the bread
lame, score the dough with a square shape and make fine decorative lines
in the center, if you wish. Place the loaves on the baking sheet in the oven,
carefully pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower
rack to create steam, and quickly close the oven door. Bake for 30 minutes
at 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 9), followed by 20 minutes at 425°F (220°C/
Gas Mark 7). Immediately transfer the loaves to a rack and let them cool
completely at room temperature.

186
 ......
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SPECIALTY BREADS

PRETZELS
Bretzels

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

Knead all the pretzel dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on
Active time Pretzel dough
low speed for 3 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium
2 hours 4 cups + 2 tbsp
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white and knead for 10 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure
Bulk fermentation time bread flour (T65)
the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Cover with plastic
15 minutes l cup (250 g/250 ml) wrap and let ferment for 15 minutes at room temperature. Divide the dough
whole milk
Resting time into 8 pieces weighing 3.75 oz. (105 g) each and shape them into balls. Let
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
15 minutes rest for 15 minutes at room temperature.
5 tbsp (3 oz./80 g)
butter, diced, at room
Proofing time
temperature
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
1-11/-4hours
0.75 oz. (20 g) fresh
Using your hands, roll each ball of dough into a rope measuring 10-12 in.
yeast
Cooking time
(25-30 cm) in length. To shape each rope into a pretzel, hold both ends of
2½ tsp (10 g) superfine
15 minutes+ poaching
sugar the rope and cross them once to make a loop. Cross a second time and fold
the pretzels
5.25 oz. (150 g) ripe the ends up over the top edge of the loop. Press down to seal well. Place the
Storage liquid levain (see technique
pretzels on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let proof in a steam
p.40)
Up to 2 days wrapped
oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of
in a clean dish towel 4½ tsp (20 g/22 ml)
sunflower oil boiling water, for 15-30 minutes, followed by 45 minutes in the refrigerator.
Equipment
Poaching liquid
Stand mixer+ dough
COOKING THE PRETZELS
hook 4 cups (l kg/1 liter) water
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Prepare the poaching liquid
Instant-read ¼ cup (1.75 oz./55 g)
thermometer baking soda by combining the water and baking soda in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil
and maintain at a simmer over low heat. Poach the pretzels in the simmering
Egg wash
water for about 30 seconds on each side. Remove with a slotted spoon and
l egg white
return them to the parchment-lined baking sheet. Lightly whisk the egg
Topping
white and brush over the pretzels. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and bake for
Fleur de sel
about 15 minutes, until golden.

188
SPECIALTY BREADS

SPICED BREAD STARS

,
Etoiles de pain d'epice

Makes 16 Ingredients PREPARING THE MOTHER DOUGH (AT LEAST 1 DAY AHEAD)
Heat the honey to 113°F (45°C) in a saucepan and pour into the bowl of the
Active time Mother dough
(pate mere) stand mixer. Add the remaining ingredients. Mix to combine (or stir by hand
l½ hours
Scant 1 cup using a spatula). Let ferment for as long as possible: at least overnight, or
Fermentation time (10.5 oz./300 g) honey
up to 3 weeks (seeChefs' Notes).
for mother dough
6.25 oz. (180 g) ripe
At least overnight, liquid levain (see technique
or up to 3 weeks p.40) PREPARING THE SPICED BREAD DOUGH
21/3cups (9 oz./250 g) Sift together the flour, baking soda, and spices. Knead the mother dough,
Freezing time
rye flour
egg, browned butter, and orange zest in the bowl of the stand mixer on low
30 minutes
Spiced bread dough speed to loosen. Add the sifted dry ingredients and mix until well blended.
Cooking tjme
¾cup+ 2 tbsp The dough will be soft and very sticky. Grease one side of two sheets of
About 10 minutes (3.5 oz./100 g) white
parchment paper with butter. Place the dough between the buttered sides
bread flour (T65)
Storage of the sheets and roll it into an approximate 12-in. (30-cm) square, with a
l tsp (6 g) baking soda
Up to several days thickness of l/3 in. (8 mm). Freeze the dough for 30 minutes to firm it up (it
l½ tsp (4 g) ground
in an airtight container
ginger will be too sticky to cut out the stars at this point).
Equipment l½ tsp (4 g) quatre-
, & • •

ep1ces spice mix

Instant-read PREPARING THE LEMON GLAZE
thermometer l½ tsp (4 g) ground
. Stir together the confectioners' sugar and lemon juice until smooth. Set
cinnamon
Stand mixer + paddle
aside at room temperature.
beater or spatula Mother dough (see above)
3-in. (8-cm) star-shaped 3 tbsp (2 oz./50 g)
cookie cutter lightly beaten egg SHAPING AND BAKING THE STARS
(about l egg)
When the dough is sufficiently firm, preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/
7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g)
Gas Mark 2). Cut out 16 stars using the cutter and place on a baking sheet
butter, browned (beurre
noisette) lined with parchment paper. Brush with a little milk to glaze and bake for
Finely grated zest of about 8 minutes.
l orange

Butter for greasing GLAZING THE SPICED BREAD STJ\RS

As soon as you remove the stars from the oven, reduce the oven temperature
Lemon syrup glaze
to 195°F (90°C/gas on lowest setting). Immediately brush the stars with the
21/3cups (10 oz./300 g)
lemon glaze and place in the oven for 2-3 minutes to ensure the glaze is
confectioners' sugar
no longer sticky.
l/3 cup (80 g/80 ml)
lemon juice

Dough glaze
A little milk

CHEFS'NOTES

The longer fermentation time not only enhances

the flavor of the spices, but also makes the stars moister
and improves their keeping quality.

190
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SPECIALTY BREADS

E NKORN BREAD
Pain au petit epeautre

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTfE (2 DAYS AHEAD)

weighing about
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
13.5 oz:.(385 g) each Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes until smooth. Place in a
2/3 cup + l tbsp
Active time
(3 oz./90 g) white bread bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
l½ hours Aour (T65)
Scant 1/4 cup PREPARING THE BREAD DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
Pate fermentee
(56 g/56 ml) water
fermentation time
Knead the flour and water in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
¼ tsp (1.5 g) salt
Overnight
3 minutes until well combined. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rest
0.05 oz. (1.5 g) fresh
Autolyse time yeast for 30 minutes at room temperature (autolyse). Add the salt, yeast, levain,
30 minutes and pate fermentee, and knead on low speed for 8 minutes until combined.
Bread dough
Increase the speed to high and knead for 2 minutes until the dough is supple.
Bulk fermentation time 4 cups+ 2 tbsp
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 77°F (25°C). Cover the
30 minutes+ overnight
einkorn flour
in the refrigerator bowl with plastic wrap and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Scant 1½ cups
Perform a fold (see technique p. 48), cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment in
Resting time (360 g/360 ml) water
at 160°F (70°C) the refrigerator overnight.
45 minutes
2 tsp (10 g) salt
Proofing time
O.l oz. (3 g) fresh yeast SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
45 minutes-l hour
5.25 oz. (150 g) ripe stiff The next day, remove the dough from the refrigerator 45 minutes before
levain (seetechniquep.38)
Cooking tjme shaping. Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces and shape each one into a
5.25 oz. (150 g) pate
30 minutes batard (see technique p. 51), 7 in. (18 cm) in length. Transfer to the loaf pans and
fermentee (seeabove)
let proof for 45 minutes-1 hour in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a
Storage
rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water.
Up to 2 days wrapped
in a clean dish towel
BAKING THE LOAVES
Equipment
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Stand mixer+ dough
hook Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
Instant-read the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
thermometer
simmer. Using the bread lame, score the tops of the loaves diagonally, if
3 loaf pans, 3 ><7 in.
you wish. Place the pans in the oven, carefully pour the simmering water
(7 ><18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm)
deep into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam, and quickly close
Bread lame (optional) the oven door. Bake for 20 minutes, then lower the heat to 425°F (220°C/
Gas Mark 7) and continue to bake for an additional 10 minutes. Immediately
turn the loaves out of the pans onto a rack and let them cool completely at
room temperature.

192
•
SPECIALTY BREADS

SPELTBREAD
Pain au grand epeautre

Makes 2 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTfE (2 DAYS AHEAD)

weighing about
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
1 lb. 3 oz. (550 g) each Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes until smooth. Place in a
¾ cup (3 oz./90 g) white
Active time
bread flour (T65) bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
l½ hours
Scant 1/.1cup
Pate fermentee
(56 g/56 ml) water PREPARING THE BREAD DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
fermentation time ¼ tsp (l.5 g) salt
Knead all the ingredients, except the 3 1/2 tbsp (50 g/50 ml) water for the
Overnight 0.05 oz. (1.5 g) fresh
bassinage stage, in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for 6 minutes
yeast
Bulk fermentation time until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead for 3 min-
Bread dough
l½ hours utes until the dough is supple and smooth. Gradually add the 3 1/2 tbsp
5 cups (l lb. 2 oz./500 g)
(50 g/50 ml) water as needed, depending on the consistency of the dough,
Resting time spelt flour, plus extra
for shaping which should be supple. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed
30 minutes in the
refrigerator Scant l½ cups 77°F (25°C). Place in a clean bowl. cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment
(350 g/350 ml) water
at l60°F (70°C) for 45 minutes at room temperature. Fold the dough (see technique p. 48),
Proofing time
cover again with plastic wrap, and let ferment for an additional 45 minutes.
12-16 hours 2 tsp (11g) salt
Perform a second fold, then shape the dough into a ball and let rest for
0.05 oz. (l g) fresh yeast
Cooking time
30 minutes in the refrigerator.
5.25 oz. (150 g) ripe stiff
40-45 minutes levain (seetechniquep.38)
Storage 5.25 oz. (150 g) pate SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
fermentee (seeabove)
Up to 3 days wrapped Divide the dough into 2 equal pieces, dust the work surface with spelt flour,
in a clean dish towel 3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml) and shape each piece into a boule (see technique p. 50). Place seam side down
water (for bassinage)
Equipment in the bannetons. Place the bannetons in loose-fitting plastic bags, seal shut,
Stand mixer+ dough and let proof for 12-16 hours in the refrigerator.
hook
Instant-read
BAKING THE SPELT BREAD
thermometer
The next day, place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly
2 ><8-in. (20-cm) round
bannetons below it. Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and
Bread lame (optional) preheat the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 9). Bring l cup (250 ml) water
to a simmer. Remove the bannetons from the plastic bags and quickly invert
them onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using the bread lame,
score the tops of the loaves in the form of a cross, if you wish. Lower the oven
temperature to 450°F (230°C/Gas Mark 8), place the loaves on the baking
sheet in the oven, and carefully pour the simmering water into the rimmed
sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven door and
bake for 40-45 minutes. Immediately transfer the loaves to a rack and let
them cool completely at room temperature.

194
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SPECIALTY BREADS

BREADSTICKS
Gressins

Makes about 20 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

4 cups+ 2 tbsp Knead all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
Active time
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) 4 minutes until well combined. Do not overwork the dough (see Chefs' Notes):
l½ hours white bread flour (T65)
2/3 if it strengthens too much, it will be difficult to shape and will shrink while
cup (160 g/160 ml)
Bulk fermentation time
cold water baking. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 68°F (20°C).
30 minutes
3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe liquid Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes
levain (see technique p. 40)
Proofing time at room temperature.
1/3 cup (75 g/80 ml)
30 minutes
olive oil, plus extra for
.
greasing SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Cooking time
2½ tsp (10 g) sugar Divide the dough into 20 pieces weighing 1.5 oz. (40 g) each. Roll each piece
30-35 minutes
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh into a 16-in. (40-cm) log and place on a baking sheet greased with olive oil.
Storage yeast Brush the breadsticks with a little water and sprinkle with toppings of your
Up to several days l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
choice. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a
in an airtight container
Suggested toppings turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for about 30 minutes.
Equipment
Sesame seeds,
Stand mixer+ dough poppy seeds, herbes
BAKING THE BREADSTICKS
hook de Provence, etc.
Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2) and bake the breadsticks
Instant-read
thermometer for 30-35 minutes, until dry. If they are thick, the center may still be soft,
but the outside should be crisp.

CHEFS'NOTES

Avoid overworking the dough, as this can make

the breadsticks tough, rather than light and crisp.

196
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SPECIALTY BREADS

CRUMPETS

MakesS Ingredients PREPARING THE BATTER

10½ oz. (300 g) Pour the levain into a bowl and add the sugar and salt. Whisk until well com-
Active time
unrefreshed liquid levain
bined. Whisk in the baking powder. Wait a few minutes: the batter should
10 minutes (see technique p. 40 and
Chefs'Notes) start to bubble slightly.
Cooking tjme
l¼ tsp (6 g) sugar
8 minutes
¾ tsp (4 g) salt COOKING THE CRUMPETS
Storage l tsp (4 g) baking Meanwhile, lightly grease the insides of the tart rings with the butter. Lightly
powder
Up to 3 days in the grease the skillet with a few drops of neutral oil and warm it over medium
refrigerator, covered l tbsp butter
heat. Place the rings in the skillet and divide the batter equally between
with plastic wrap
Neutral oil of your
them. Reduce the heat to low. Cover the skillet and cook over low heat for
choice
Equipment
about 5 minutes until the tops of the crumpets are set and small holes form.
5 x 4-in. (10-cm) tart To serve (optional)
Carefully turn the crumpets over, remove the rings (they should detach
rings, l in. (2.5 cm) deep
Butter
easily), and continue cooking for about 3 minutes until the undersides are
Large skillet
Jam of your choice
golden.
Chocolate spread
{see technique p.120)
Serve the crumpets warm. You can put them in the toaster to brown them
more and make them crisp. Spread with butter and jam, or chocolate spread,
if you wish. Serve hot.

CHEFS'NOTES

The levain should be relatively mild, like yogurt.

If it is too sour, you can add a little more
baking powder and sugar.

198
• •
SPECIALTY BREADS

FLAKY ROLLS
Petits pains feuilletes

Makes 16 rolls, Ingredients PREPARING THE WATER DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
Knead all the water dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on
2 oz. (60 g) each Water dough
low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium
4 cups+ 2 tbsp
Active time
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) and knead for 5 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure
2 hours all-purpose flour (gruau)
the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl,
l cup+ 5 tsp
Bulk fermentation time cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room temperature.
(270 g/270 ml) water
l hour + 10-12 hours Fold the dough once (see technique p. 48), shape it into a ball, and place in a
13/4tsp (9 g) salt
in the refrigerator
clean bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let ferment for 10-12 hours in the
0.25 oz. (S g) fresh yeast
Resting time refrigerator.
Laminating butter
l hour
l stick + 2 tbsp
LAMINATING THE DOUGH
Proofing time (S oz./150 g) butter,
preferably 84% fat The next day, roll the dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm) rectangle. Roll the
l½ hours
laminating (84%) butter into a 6-in. (15-cm) square (see technique p. 62). Place
Butter for the pans
Cooking time
the butter in the center of the dough and fold the ends of the dough over it
20 minutes
To finish to meet in the center, enclosing the butter completely. Roll the dough into
Storage 3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g) an approximate 8 x 20-in. (20 x 50-cm) rectangle. Fold the shorter ends
butter, melted and
Up to 24 hours wrapped of the dough over so that they meet in the center, then fold the dough in
browned (beurre
in a clean dish towel
noisette) half, like a book, to make a double turn. Let rest for 15-30 minutes in the
Equipment Fleur de sel refrigerator. Give the dough a quarter turn clockwise. Roll the dough into an
Stand mixer+ dough approximate 8 x 20-in. (20 x 50-cm) rectangle, then fold it in 3, like a letter,
hook
to make a single turn. Let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Instant-read
thermometer
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
16 x 2½-in. (6.5-cm)
round cake pans, l½ in. Lightly grease the cake pans with butter and place on a baking sheet. Roll
(3.5 cm) deep
the dough into a 121/2 x 21¼ in. (32 x 40-cm) rectangle and trim the edges all
around. Roll the dough up from one long side into a tight log, then cut the
log into 16 x 1-in. (2.5-cm) slices. Place the slices flat in the pans. Let proof
in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above
a bowl of boiling water, for 11/2 hours.

BAKING THE FLAKY ROLLS

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C/Gas Mark 8) and bake the rolls for
20 minutes until puffed and golden. As soon as the rolls are removed from
the oven, brush them with browned butter and sprinkle with a little fleur
de sel. Let cool in the pans for 10 minutes before turning them out onto a
rack to cool.

200
SPECIALTY BREADS

FLAKY RYE-WHEATLOAF
Pain de meteil feuillete

Makes 3 loaves, Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTtE (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing 13 oz.
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
(360 g) each Pate fermentee
3/4cup (3 oz./90 g) white
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes until smooth. Place in a
Active time
bread flour (T 65) bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
2 hours
Scant 1/4 cup
(56 g/56 ml) water
Pate /ermentee PREPARING THE RYE-WHEAT DOUGH
fermentation time ¼ tsp (1.5 g) salt
Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
Overnight 0.05 oz. (1.5 g) fresh
for 6 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead
yeast
Bulk fermentation time for 5 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure the dough
Rye-wheat dough
30 minutes temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with
21/3 cups (9 oz./250 g)
plastic wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature. Roll the
Resting time rye flour (Tl30)
dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm) rectangle. Cover with plastic wrap and
30 minutes 2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
all-purpose flour (T55) let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
Chilling time
11/3 cups (310 g/310 ml)
30 minutes water
LAMINATING THE DOUGH
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
Proofing time Roll the laminating (84%) butter into a 6-in. (15-cm) square (see technique
0.5 oz. (15 g) fresh yeast
l½ hours p. 62). Place the butter in the center of the dough and fold the ends of the
5.25 oz. (150 g) pate
dough over it to meet in the center, enclosing the butter completely. Give
Cooking time fermentee (see above)
the dough one double turn (see technique p. 65), then rotate the folded dough
30 minutes
Laminating butter
90° clockwise and give it one single turn (see technique p. 64). Cover with plastic
Storage l stick + 2 tsp
wrap and chill for 30 minutes.
(4.5 oz./125 g) butter,
Up to 2 days wrapped
preferably 84% fat
in a clean dish towel
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Butter for the pans
Equipment Grease the loaf pans with butter. Roll the dough into a 16 x 20-in. (40 x 50-cm)
Stand mixer+ dough
rectangle, then roll it up from one long side into a tight log and cut it into
hook
3 equal pieces. Place the pieces in the pans, seam side down. Using scissors,
Instant-read
thermometer cut a deep zigzag pattern into the top of each loaf, reaching down to the
3 loaf pans, 3 x 7 in. center. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-
(7 x 18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm)
deep
off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for about l½ hours.

BAKING THE LOAVES

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7) and bake the loaves for
30-40 minutes. Immediately turn the loaves out of the pans and let them
cool completely on a rack.

202
SPECIALTY BREADS

GARLIC AND CHEESE NAANS

Na ans au f romage

Makes 12 Ingredients PREPARING THE HAAN DOUGH

Knead all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
Active time Naan dough
5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead for
l½ hours 4 cups + 2 tbsp
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white 8 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. The dough temperature
Bulk fermentation time bread flour (T 65)
should be 73°F-75°F (23°C-24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic
1 hour 1 cup+ 5 tsp
wrap, and let ferment for 1 hour at room temperature. Divide the dough
(270 g/270 ml) water
Resting time into 12 pieces weighing about 2.75 oz. (80 g) each and gently shape each
3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe liquid
30 minutes levain (see technique p. 40) piece into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes at
¼ cup (2 oz./60 g) plain room temperature.
Cooking time
yogurt or fromage frais
4 minutes per naan
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
PREPARING THE G.ARLIC GHEE
Storage 0.05 oz. (1 g) fresh yeast
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a saucepan over very low heat and let it simmer
1-2 hours wrapped
Garlic ghee gently until a foamy white layer forms on top. Skim off as much of the foam
in a clean damp dish
towel 3 tbsp (l.75 oz./50 g) from the surface as you can. When the butter is translucent, i.e., clarified,
butter
pour it carefully into a bowl, leaving the milk solids at the bottom of the pan.
Equipment
1 clove garlic
Chop the garlic very finely and stir it into the clarified butter.
Stand mixer+ dough
hook Cheese and garlic filling
Instant-read 12 cloves garlic SHAPING AND FILLING THE NAANS
thermometer
1 lb. 5 oz. (600 g) Roll each piece of dough into a 7-in. (18-cm) round disk with a thickness of
Skillet mozzarella 1/16
about in. (2 mm). Place 1.75 oz. (50 g) mozzarella and 1 finely chopped
To cook and garnish clove garlic in the center of each one. Fold the dough in half to enclose the
Neutral oil filling, sealing the edges well. Roll each piece into an approximate 4 x 12-in.
Garlic ghee (see above), (10 x 30-cm) oval and place on a sheet of parchment paper.
melted
A few leaves and sprigs
COOKING THE NAANS
cilantro
Lightly grease the skillet with oil-soaked paper towels and heat it over
medium heat. When the skillet is hot, cook one naan at a time for about
2 minutes on each side until golden. Cover the skillet as you cook each naan
to keep it moist and, using a piece of parchment paper, carefully flip it by
hand. Remove each naan from the pan as it cooks and immediately brush it
with melted garlic ghee. Serve immediately garnished with cilantro leaves
and sprigs. Alternatively, the naans can be stacked and wrapped in a damp
dish towel for up to 2 hours.

204
SPECIALTY BREADS

FOUGASSE

Makes 3 fougasses, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
12 oz. (330 g) each Fougasse dough
for 3 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead
4 cups+ 2 tbsp
Active time
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white for 5 minutes until supple. Gradually add 2 tbsp (30 g/30 ml) water and
l½ hours bread flour (T65)
2 1/2 tbsp (35 g/38 ml) olive oil as needed, depending on the consistency
Bulk fermentation time
ll/3 cups (325 g/325 ml) of the dough, which should be soft and supple (bassinage). Make sure the
water
l½ hours+ overnight dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Cover the bowl with
2 tsp (10 g) salt
plastic wrap and let ferment for 11/2 hours at room temperature, folding the
Proofing time 0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
dough once halfway through the fermentation time, after 45 minutes (see
30 minutes 3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe liquid
levain (see technique p. 40) technique p. 48). Shape the dough into a ball, place in a clean bowl, and cover
Cooking time
with plastic wrap. Let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
Bassin age
14-16 minutes
2 tbsp (30 g/30 ml)
Storage water SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Up to 24 hours well 2½ tbsp (35 g/38 ml) The next day, divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing about 12 oz. (330 g)
covered in plastic wrap olive oil
each. Shape each one into a leaf-shaped triangle, 12 in. (30 cm) long, 8 in.
Equipment To finish (20 cm) wide, and about ½ in. (1 cm) thick. Place on a baking sheet lined
Stand mixer+ dough Olive oil with parchment paper. Using the bench scraper, make several slits in each
hook
piece of dough, cutting all the way through to make a leaf-like pattern. Using
Instant-read
your fingers, stretch the slits open wide to prevent them from closing up
thermometer
during baking. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in
Bench scraper
a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 30 minutes.

BAKING THE FOUG.A.SSES

Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
the oven to 500°F (260°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
simmer. Place the fougasses on the baking sheet in the oven and carefully
pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create
steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for 14-16 minutes. As soon as
the fougasses are removed from the oven, brush them with olive oil. Serve
warm or transfer to a rack and let cool.

206
 •

•
,
I
.

210 ALMOND 244 CHOCOLATE CHIP

CROISSANTS VIENNA BREAD
212 TWO-TONE 246 CARDAMOM
CHOCOLATE BRIOCHE BUNS
CROISSANTS
248 HAZELNUT AND
214 PISTACHIO- CHOCOLATE PUFF
CHOCOLATE SWIRLS PASTRIES

216 TWISTED 250 PROVEN<;AL OLIVE

CINNAMON ROLLS OIL BRIOCHE
218 FLAKY BRIOCHE 252 JAM DONUTS
220 CRUFFINS 254 LYONNAISE FRITTERS
222 KINGS' CAKE 256 RING DONUTS
224 SWEET BRETON 258 FRENCH TOAST
PUFF PASTRIES WITH SUZETTESAUCE
226 NEW YORK ROLLS 260 BREAD PUDDING
228 BABKA 262 SUGAR BRIOCHE
230 EPIPHANY BRIOCHE TARTS
232 INDIVIDUAL PINK
PRALINE BRIOCHES
•
234 GACHE BRIOCHE
236 BRAIDED VENDEE
BRIOCHE
238 VEGAN BRIOCHE
240 KOUGELHOPF
242 PANETTONE
VIENNOISERIE

ALMOND CROISSANTS
Croissant aux amandes

Makes6 Ingredients PREPARING THE VANILLA SYRUP

Combine the water, sugar, and vanilla seeds in a saucepan. Bring to a boil,
Active time Vanilla syrup
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool.
30 minutes 2 cups (500 g/500 ml)
water
Cooking tjme
22/3 cups (1 lb. 2 oz./ PREPARING THE ALMOND CROISSANTS
15 minutes 500 g) superfine sugar
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Using the serrated knife,
l vanilla bean, split
Storage cut the croissants in half horizontally. Quickly dip the croissant halves in
lengthwise and seeds
Up to 24 hours scraped the cooled syrup and place on a rack for a few minutes to let the excess
liquid drip off.
Equipment Almond croissants
Large serrated knife 6 " 1-day-old croissants
(see technique p. 77) Spoon the almond cream into the pastry bag. Place the bottom halves of
Pastry bag with
a plain tip Vanilla syrup (see above) the croissants on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and pipe a
8.5 oz. (240 g) almond layer of almond cream over each one. Place the tops on the croissants and
cream (see technique p. 114)
pipe a little almond cream over them. Sprinkle with the sliced almonds and
Generous l cup
bake for 15 minutes.
(3.5 oz./100 g) sliced
almonds
Confectioners' sugar Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve warm or at room temperature.

210
VIENNOISERIE

TWO-TONE CHOCOLATE CROISSANTS

Croissant bicolore au chocolat

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE CROISSANT DOUGH

Knead all the plain water dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer
Active time Two-tone croissant
dough on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high
2 hours
Plain water dough and knead for 8 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. The dough
Bulk fermentation time
2 cups (9 oz./250 g) temperature should be between 70°F (21°C) and 73°F (23°C). Remove from
30 minutes cake flour (T 45)
the bowl.
½ cup (125 g/125 ml)
Resting time
whole milk
45 minutes-l hour To prepare the chocolate water dough, weigh out 2.75 oz. (80 g) of the plain
l tsp (5 g) salt
water dough and return it to the bowl of the stand mixer. Add the cocoa
Proofing time 0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh
yeast powder, water, and butter and knead on low speed until well combined. Roll
2½ hours
2 tsp (10 g) honey the chocolate water dough into a 6-in. (15-cm) square. Cover with plastic
Cooking time
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar wrap and chill until using.
22-25 minutes
Scant 2 tbsp (25 g)
butter, diced, at room
Storage Roll the plain water dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm) rectangle. cover
temperature
Up to 24 hours with plastic wrap and let ferment for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Roll the
Chocolate water dough
laminating (84%) butter into a 6-in. (15-cm) square (see technique p. 62). Place
Equipment 2.75 oz. (80 g) plain
water dough (seeabove) the butter in the center of the dough and fold the ends of the dough over
Stand mixer+ dough
hook l½ tbsp (10 g) it to meet in the center and enclose the butter completely. Roll the dough
unsweetened
Instant-read into an approximate 6 x 20-in. (15 x 50-cm) rectangle (about 1/a in./3-4 mm
cocoa powder
thermometer
thick). Fold the shorter ends of the dough over so that they meet in the
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) water
center, then fold the dough in half, like a book, to make a double turn. Let
2 tsp (10 g) butter,
at room temperature rest for 15-30 minutes in the refrigerator. Give the dough a quarter turn
Laminating butter clockwise. Roll the dough into an approximate 6 x 20-in. (15 x 50-cm) rectan-
l stick + 2 tbsp gle, then fold it in 3, like a letter, to make a single turn. Place the chocolate
(5 oz./150 g) butter,
water dough on top and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest for 30 minutes in
preferably 84% fat
the refrigerator.
Egg wash
l egg
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE CROISSANTS
l egg yolk
Roll the doughs, with one still on top of the other, into a 10 x 14-in. (25 x 35-cm)
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
rectangle. Trim the edges all around. then cut the rectangle crosswise into
milk
4 smaller rectangles with the longer sides measuring approximately 3 1/2 in.
(8.5 cm). Cut each rectangle diagonally lengthwise to obtain triangles, then
roll up each triangle from the base to the tip with the chocolate part facing
outward. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let proof in a
steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above
a bowl of boiling water, for about 2 1/2 hours.

BAKING THE CROISSANTS

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas Mark 6). Whisk the egg wash ingre-
dients together and brush over the croissants. Bake for 22-25 minutes.

212
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VIENNOISERIE

P STACHIO-CHOCOLATE SW RLS
Roule pistache et chocolat

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE PISTACHIO CREAM

Heat the milk and pistachio paste in a saucepan. Meanwhile, whisk together
Active time Pistachio cream
the egg yolk and sugar in a bowl until pale and thick, then whisk in the corn-
2 hours Scant½ cup
(100 g/100 ml) whole starch. Whisking constantly, slowly pour one-third of the hot milk mixture
Bulk fermentation time milk
into the egg yolk mixture. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and
30 minutes Scant 2 tbsp (25 g)
bring to a gentle simmer, stirring constantly with a spatula. As soon as the
pistachio paste
Resting time first bubbles appear, remove from the heat. Add the butter and stir until
l egg yolk
45 minutes-l hour completely smooth. Press plastic wrap over the surface and chill until using.
3¾ tsp (15 g) sugar
Proofing time l tbsp (10 g) cornstarch
PREPARING THE YEASTED PUFF PASTRY
2 hours 2 tsp (10 g) butter,
at room temperature Knead all the base dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on
Cooking time
low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high
Yeasted puff pastry
22-25 minutes
and knead for 8 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. The dough
Base dough (detrempe)
Storage temperature should be between 70°F (21°C) and 73°F (23°C). Roll the
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
Up to 24 hours cake flour (T 45) dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm) rectangle, cover with plastic wrap and
½ cup (125 g/125 ml) let ferment for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Roll the laminating (84%)
Equipment
whole milk
butter into a 6-in. (15-cm) square (see technique p. 62). Place the butter in the
Stand mixer+ dough
l tsp (5 g) salt
hook center of the dough and fold the ends of the dough over it to meet in the
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh
Instant-read center, enclosing the butter completely. Roll the dough into an approximate
yeast
thermometer
8 x 20-in. (20 x 50-cm) rectangle. Fold the shorter ends of the dough over
2 tsp (10 g) honey
so that they meet in the center, then fold the dough in half, like a book, to
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
make a double turn. Let rest for 15-30 minutes in the refrigerator. Give the
Scant 2 tbsp (25 g)
butter, diced, at room dough a quarter turn clockwise. Roll the dough into an approximate 8 x 20-in.
temperature
(20 x 50-cm) rectangle, then fold it in 3, like a letter, to make a single turn.
Laminating butter
Let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
l stick + 2 tbsp
(5 oz./150 g) butter,
preferably 84% fat SHAPING AND PROOFING THE SWIRLS
Roll the dough into an 8 x 14-in. (20 x 35-cm) rectangle and trim the edges
To assemble
all around. Loosen the pistachio cream with a flexible spatula, then spread it
l cup (5.75 oz./160 g)
chocolate chips into an even layer across the dough. Scatter the chocolate chips evenly over
the top. Roll the dough up from one long side into a tight log, then cut the
Egg wash
log into 8 slices, l in. (2.5 cm) thick. Set the slices flat on a baking sheet lined
l egg
with parchment paper. Let proof for about 2 hours in a steam oven set to
l egg yolk
82°F (28°C}, or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water.
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
milk
BAKING THE SWIRLS
Decoration
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas Mark 6). Whisk the egg wash ingre-
Scant 3/4 cup
(3.5 oz./100 g) dients together and brush over the swirls. Sprinkle the chopped pistachios
pistachios, chopped around the edges and bake for 22-25 minutes.

214
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VIENNOISERIE

TW STED CINNAMON ROLLS

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH

Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of the stand
Active time Brioche dough
mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed
2 hours 1 cup+ 2 tbsp
(5.25 oz./150 g) to medium and knead for 6-8 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic.
Bulk fermentation time all-purpose flour (gruau)
With the mixer running on medium speed, add the butter and knead until
30 minutes 2¾cups
completely incorporated (6-8 minutes). Make sure the dough temperature
(12.5 oz./350 g) white
Freezing time bread flour (T 65) does not exceed 77°F-79°F (25°C-26°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl,
30 minutes 2/3 cup (5.25 oz./150 g) cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature.
lightly beaten egg Fold the dough once (see technique p. 48), cover with plastic wrap, and freeze
Chilling time (3 eggs), well chilled
for 30 minutes. Roll the dough into a 9 1/2 x 16-in. (24 x 40-cm) rectangle, just
30 minutes cup (150 g/150 ml)
2/3
whole milk over 1/a in. (4 mm) thick. Chill for 30 minutes before shaping.
Proofing time
Scant l/3 cup (2 oz./60 g)
l½-2 hours sugar
PREPARING THE CINNAMON CREAM
2/3 oz. (20 g) fresh yeast
Cooking time Place the softened butter in a bowl and add the brown sugar, cinnamon, and
13/4tsp (9 g) salt
20 minutes cornstarch. Stir with a flexible spatula until well combined and smooth. Set
1 stick + 2 tbsp
aside at room temperature until using.
Storage (5 oz./150 g) butter,
diced, at room
Up to 2 days in a plastic
temperature
bag SHAPING AND PROOFING THE CINNAMON ROLLS
Cinnamon cream Grease the molds with butter and place on a baking sheet. Using a spatula,
Equipment
1 stick + 2 tbsp quickly spread the cinnamon cream over the dough rectangle before the
Stand mixer+ dough
(5 oz./150 g) butter,
hook cream firms up due to contact with the chilled dough. Fold the rectangle in
left for 1 hour
Instant-read at room temperature half, forming an 8 x 9 1/2-in. (20 x 24-cm) rectangle. Cut the rectangle into
thermometer or microwaved on
8 strips measuring l¼ x 8 in. (3 x 20 cm) each. Gently pull on both ends of
medium power for
8 x 4-in. (10-cm) round
30 seconds each strip to stretch it out by about 4 in. (10 cm). To form a roll, twist the
molds, l½ in. (4 cm)
deep 3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g) strip, then wrap it around two fingers and tuck the end into the center on
packed brown sugar
top. Place in the prepared molds and let proof for 11/2-2 hours at room
2 tbsp (18 g) ground
. temperature. The dough needs to relax before baking .
cinnamon
Generous ¼ cup
(1.5 oz./45 g) cornstarch BAKING THE CINNAMON ROLLS
Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2) and bake the cinnamon
Butter for the molds
rolls for about 15 minutes. Let them cool completely in the molds on a rack.
Glaze
Generous 2¾ cups PREPARING THE GLAZE AND GLAZING THE CINNAMON ROLLS
(13.25 oz./375 g)
Warm all the glaze ingredients together in a saucepan, stirring to dissolve
confectioners' sugar
the sugar. Let cool slightly before using. Preheat the oven to 195°F (90°C/
6 tbsp (90 g/90 ml)
water gas on lowest setting). Turn the cinnamon rolls out of the molds and dip
l½ tsp (4 g) ground the tops into the glaze. Shake off any excess, place the rolls with their tops
.
cinnamon
facing upward on a baking sheet, and return to the oven for 5 minutes to
dry out the glaze.

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VIENNOISERIE

FLAKY BR OCHE
Brioche feuilletee

Makes 2 brioches, Ingredients PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about 12.5 oz.
Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter and sugar, in the bowl
(350 g) each Brioche dough
of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
Active time
all-purpose flour (gruau) the speed to medium and knead for 6-8 minutes until the dough is supple
2 hours
2/3 cup (5.25 oz./150 g) and elastic. With the mixer running on medium speed, add the butter and
Bulk fermentation time lightly beaten egg sugar and knead until completely incorporated (6-8 minutes). Make sure
(3 eggs)
l hour + 10-12 hours the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl,
l tsp (5 g) salt
in the refrigerator
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh
cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room temperature.
Resting time yeast Fold the dough once (see technique p. 48), return it to the bowl, and cover with
45 minutes-1 hour 6 tbsp (3 oz./90 g) plastic wrap. Let ferment for 10-12 hours in the refrigerator.
butter, diced, at room
Proofing time temperature
LAMINATING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH
2 hours 2½ tbsp (l oz./30 g)
sugar The next day, roll the dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm) rectangle. Roll the
Cooking time
84% butter into a 6-in. (15-cm) square (see technique p. 62). Place the butter in
Laminating butter
25-30 minutes
the center of the dough and fold the ends of the dough over it to meet in the
l stick + 2 tbsp
Storage (5 oz./150 g) butter, center, enclosing the butter completely. Roll the dough into an approximate
preferably 84% fat
Up to 2 days 8 x 20-in. (20 x 50-cm) rectangle. Fold the shorter ends of the dough over
Butter for the pans so that they meet in the center, then fold the dough in half, like a book, to
Equipment
make a double turn. Let the dough rest in the refrigerator for 15-30 min-
Stand mixer+ dough
Syrup
hook utes. Place it on the work surface and give it a quarter turn to the right so
Instant-read l cup (250 g/250 ml)
the flap is on one side. Roll the dough again into an approximate 8 x 20-in.
water
thermometer
(20 x 50-cm) rectangle, then fold it in 3, like a letter, to make a single turn.
2/3cup (4.5 oz./125 g)
2 loaf pans, 2¾" 7 in.
sugar Let rest again for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
(7 "18 cm), 3 in. (8 cm)
deep
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE FLAKY BRIOCHES
Grease the loaf pans with butter. Roll the dough into a rectangle slightly
larger than 8 x 21¼ in. (20 x 54 cm). Trim the edges to that size all around, then
cut in half lengthwise to obtain 2 strips measuring 4 x 21¼ in. (10 x 54 cm).
Brush a little water over each strip to moisten, then fold in half lengthwise
to obtain 2 x 211/4-in. (5 x 54-cm) strips. Pleat each strip like an accordion
and place in the prepared loaf pans. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F
(24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water,
for 2 hours.

PREPARING THE SYRUP

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until
the sugar dissolves. Let cool before using.

BAKING THE FLAKY BRIOCHES

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4) and bake the brioches for
25-30 minutes. As soon as they come out of the oven, turn the brioches out
of the pans and brush them with the syrup to make them glossy.

218
VIENNOISERIE

CRUFF NS

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE YEASTED PUFF PASTRY DOUGH

Knead all the base dough ingredients together in the bowl of the stand mixer
Active time Yeasted puff pastry
dough on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high
3 hours
Base dough (det,empe) and knead for 8 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. The dough
Bulk fermentation time
1 cup (4.25 oz./125 g) temperature should be between 70°F (21°C) and 73°F (23°C). Roughly roll
15 minutes all-purpose flour (gruau)
out the dough, fold the edges in toward the center, and turn it over. Cover
l cup (4.25 oz./125 g)
Freezing time with plastic wrap and let ferment for 15 minutes in the refrigerator. Roll the
white bread flour (T65)
l¼ hours laminating (84%) butter into a 6-in. (15-cm) square (see technique p. 62) and
cup (150 g/150 ml)
2/3
whole milk chill until using. Roll the dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm) rectangle, cover
Proofing time
l tsp (5 g) salt with plastic wrap, and freeze for 30 minutes. Place the butter in the center
2 hours
0.5 oz. (12 g) fresh yeast of the dough and fold the ends of the dough over it to meet in the center,
Cooking time
2½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g) enclosing the butter completely. Roll the dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm)
20 minutes sugar
rectangle and give it a single turn (see technique p. 64). Cover with plastic wrap
2 tsp (10 g) butter
Storage and freeze for 15 minutes. Give the dough a quarter turn clockwise, roll it
l knife tip water-soluble
Up to 24 hours, into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm) rectangle again, and give it another single turn.
powdered red food
but best served
coloring Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for 30 minutes.
within a few hours
Laminating butter
Equipment
l stick + 2 tbsp SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Stand mixer+ dough (5 oz./150 g) butter,
Roll the dough into a 10 x 121/2-in. (25 x 32-cm) rectangle, 1/s in. (4.5 mm)
hook preferably 84% fat
thick. Trim the edges and cut out 8 rectangles measuring 3 x 5 in. (7.5 x 12 cm)
Instant-read
Butter for the pans each. Cut each rectangle into 3 strips, l x 5 in. (2.5 12 cm) each. Place the
thermometer x

8 x 3-in. (8-cm) muffin 24 strips on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, cover with plastic
Syrup
pans, l½ in. (4 cm) deep
wrap, and freeze for 15 minutes to firm up the butter. Grease the muffin pans
Scant½ cup
Pastry ~ag with a plain
(100 g/100 ml) water with butter. To shape the cruffins, place one strip on the work surface with
round tip
Seant 2/3 cup a short side facing you. Place another strip on top, about 1/2 in. (1 cm) lower
(4.25 oz./120 g) sugar
than the first one to form a step. Repeat with a third strip. Press the strips
To finish together with your fingertips and roll them up together from top to bottom.
Superfine sugar, Lay flat and gently fold the loose end of each strip downward, making sure
for dusting
to keep the same space between them. Place in the muffin pans. Coat your
Jam of your choice,
index finger with flour and use to make a large hole in the center of each
for filling
cruffin. Let proof for 2 hours at room temperature in a draft-free place.

PREPARING THE SYRUP

Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to
dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat.

BAKING AND FILLING THE CRUFFINS

Preheat the oven on fan setting to 325°F (160°C/Gas Mark 3). Bake the
cruffins for 20 minutes. As soon as they come out of the oven, brush them
with the syrup. Let them cool in the pans for 10 minutes before turning out
onto a rack to cool. Once the cruffins have cooled completely, roll them in
superfine sugar. Using the tip of a knife, open up the hole in the center of
each cruffin. Spoon your jam of choice into the pastry bag and pipe into the
cruffins to fill them completely.

220
VIENNOISERIE

KINGS' CAKE
Galette des rois

Serves 8 Ingredients MAKING THE PUFF PASTRY (1 DAY AHEAD)

Use the ingredients to make a 5-turn puff pastry (see technique p. 66), adding
Active time Puff pastry
the sugar with the flour. Divide the dough into 2 x 9-oz. (250-g) squares.
3 hours 3/4 tsp (4 g) salt
Fold the corners of the squares to the center, turn over and shape each into
Scant½ cup
Chilling time
(100 g/100 ml) cold a ball. Flatten, cover in plastic wrap, and chill for 24 hours.
24 hours water
Heaping l tbsp (10 g)
Freezing time MAKING THE FRANGIPANE CREAM (1 DAY AHEAD)
confectioners' sugar,
Overnight sifted Cream the butter and sugar together in a large mixing bowl until light. Mix
12/3 cups (7 oz./200 g) in the egg and whipping cream and then stir in the almond flour, rum, and
Cooking tjme
all-purpose flour (T55),
vanilla. Add the pastry cream and mix until well blended. Line a baking sheet
40 minutes sifted
with parchment paper and spoon the frangipane cream into the pastry bag.
Scant 3 tbsp
Storage
(l.5 oz./40 g) butter, Pipe the cream in a tight spiral, 8 in. (20 cm) in diameter, on the baking sheet,
Up to 2 days melted and cooled
starting at the center and working outwards. Tuck the charm or bean into
l stick plus 2 tbsp
Equipment the cream, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze overnight.
(5 oz./140 g) butter,
Pastry bag fitted with preferably 84%
a plain ½-in. (10-mm) tip butterfat
ASSEMBLING THE CAKE
Ceramic charm or dried
Frangipane cream The next day, roll out each disk of pastry, with the folds underneath, into
bean
3½ tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g) 9-in. (23-cm) rounds. Turn one over so the folds are facing up (the cream
Pastry pincher
butter, at room
will cover the folds) and brush the edges with water. Place the disk of fran-
temperature
gipane cream in the center. Cover with the second puff pastry round, with
¼ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
sugar the folds facing down and in contact with the cream. Press the pastry edges
Scant 3 tbsp together using the pastry pincher to seal them and prevent the filling leaking
(l.5 oz./40 g) lightly
out during baking. Dampen a baking sheet by brushing with water. Turn the
beaten egg (about
l egg), at room cake over and lift it onto the sheet. Brush the pastry with egg wash and chill
temperature
for 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C/Gas Mark 5). Brush with
2 tsp (10 ml) whipping
egg wash again and, using a paring knife, mark curved lines in the pastry,
cream, 35% fat
½ cup (l.75 oz./50 g)
¼ in. (6 mm) apart, starting at the center and working to the outside. Place
almond flour in the oven, lower the temperature to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark 3), and bake
l tsp (5 ml) rum for 40 minutes.
Few drops
of vanilla extract
PREPARING THE SIMPLE SYRUP
l oz. (25 g) pastry cream
While the cake is baking, prepare the syrup. Heat the water and sugar in a
{see tec_hnique p. 112)
saucepan over medium heat and, when the sugar has dissolved, bring to a
Egg wash
boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the rum. As soon as the cake is taken
Scant 1/<1cup
out of the oven, brush it with a little syrup to give the pastry a nice sheen,
(l.75 oz./50 9) lightly
beaten egg (about l egg) without making it soggy. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Simple syrup
3 tbsp plus l tsp
(SO g/50 ml) water
¼ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
sugar
2 tsp (10 ml) rum

222
VIENNOISERIE

SWEET BRETON PUFF PASTRES

Kouign-amann

Makes 15 Ingredients PREPARING THE WATER DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

Knead all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
Active time Water dough
3 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and knead for 7 minutes. Remove
3 hours 4 cups+ 2 tbsp
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white the dough from the bowl, shape it into a ball, and cover with plastic wrap.
Resting time bread flour (T 65)
Let rest for 15-20 minutes at room temperature. Roll the dough into an
15-20 minutes 0.5 oz. (15 g) fresh yeast, 8 x 16-in. (20 x 40-cm) rectangle, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment
crumbled
Bulk fermentation time overnight in the refrigerator.
3¾ tsp (15 g) sugar
Overnight
4 tsp (20 g) salt
LAMINATING THE DOUGH
Chilling time 3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g)
butter, diced, at room The next day, prepare the 84% butter for laminating (see technique p. 62). Roll
2 hours
temperature
it into a 12-in. (30-cm) square and chill for 30 minutes. Sprinkle the l cup
Proofing time 1¼ cups (300 g/300 ml)
(7 oz./200 g) sugar over the butter, then fold the four corners in toward
whole milk
2½ hours
the center. Roll the butter out again into an 8-in. (20-cm) square. Place the
Laminating butter
Cooking tjme butter in the center of the water dough so that there are 4 in. (10 cm) of
3½ sticks (14 oz./400 g)
16-20 minutes dough on either side. Fold the dough over the butter to meet in the center,
butter, preferably
84% fat obtaining a square. Roll the dough into an 8 x 24-in. (20 x 60-cm) rectangle
Storage
l cup (7 oz./200 g) sugar with a short side facing you. Fold the shorter sides of the dough toward the
Up to 2 days
in an airtight container center, one-third of the way down from the top and two-thirds up from the
Butter for the pans
bottom, like a letter, to make a single turn. Rotate the dough 90° clockwise.
Equipment Sugar for the pans
Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes. Repeat these steps twice
Stand mixer+ dough
hook more, giving the dough 2 more single turns.
15 x 4-in. (10-cm) round
silicone molds
SHAPING, PROOFING, AND BAKING THE PASTRIES
Grease the molds with butter and sprinkle to coat with sugar so that the
pastries caramelize when baking. Place them on a baking sheet. Roll the
dough into a 15 x 25-in. (36 x 60-cm) rectangle, about 1/s in. (4 mm) thick. Cut
the rectangle lengthwise into 3 strips 5 in. (12 cm) wide, then widthwise into
5 strips 5 in. (12 cm) wide, to form 15 x 5-in. (12-cm) squares. Fold the four
corners of each square in toward the center and place in the molds with the
corners facing down. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a
rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for about 2 1/2 hours.
Preheat the oven on fan setting to 325°F (160°C/Gas Mark 3) and bake the
pastries for 16-20 minutes until golden brown. As soon as the pastries come
out of the oven, turn them out of the molds and let them cool on a rack.

224
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.,l'W
VIENNOISERIE

NEW YORK ROLLS

Makes 12 Yeasted puff pastry

dough
Active time
Water dough
3 hours
2 cups + 2 tbsp
(9.5 oz./270 g) cake flour
Bulk fermentation time
(T45)
30 minutes
½cup+ 2 tsp
(135 g/135 ml) whole
Resting time
milk
45 minutes-l hour
1 tsp (6 g) salt
Proofing time 0.5 oz. (14 g) fresh yeast
l½ hours 2 tsp (10 g) honey
2½ tbsp (l oz./30 g)
Cooking time
sugar
12-15 minutes
2 tbsp (1 oz./30 g)
butter, diced, at room
Storage
temperature
Up to 24 hours
Laminating butter
in an airtight container
1 stick + 2 tbsp
Equipment (5 oz./150 g) butter,
preferably 84% fat
Stand mixer+ dough
hook
Dark chocolate ganache
Instant-read
7 oz. (200 g) dark
thermometer
chocolate, 70% cacao
12 x 4-in. (10-cm) cake
2/3cup (160 g/160 ml)
rings, l¼ in. (3 cm) deep
heavy cream,
Pastry bag with a plain min. 35% fat
½-in. (15-mm) tip
3 tbsp (l.5 oz./40 g)
butter, diced, at room
Ingredients
temperature
Vanilla pastry cream
Decoration
Scant l½ cups
Almonds, finely chopped
(350 g/350 ml) whole
and toasted
milk
2/3cup (150 g/150 ml)
heavy cream,
min. 35% fat
½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g)
sugar, divided
1 vanilla bean, split
lengthwise and seeds
scraped
1 egg
l egg yolk
3 tbsp (1 oz./30 g)
cornstarch
4 tbsp (2 oz./60 g)
butter, diced, at room
temperature

226
PREPARING THE VANILLA PASTRY CREAM BAKING THE ROLLS
Heat the milk and cream with half the sugar and the vanilla Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4) and bake the
seeds in a saucepan. Meanwhile, whisk together the egg, egg rolls for 12-15 minutes. Let cool in the cake rings for 10 minutes
yolk, and remaining sugar in a bowl until pale and thick, then before removing and placing them on a rack to cool.
whisk in the cornstarch. Whisking constantly, slowly pour one-
third of the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture. Pour the PREPARING THE DARK CHOCOLATE GAMACHE
mixture back into the saucepan and bring to a gentle simmer, Finely chop the chocolate and place it in a heatproof bowl.
stirring constantly with a spatula. As soon as the first bubbles Bring the cream to a boil in a saucepan, pour it over the choc-
appear, remove from the heat. Add the butter and stir until olate and stir to melt. Add the butter and stir until completely
completely smooth. Press plastic wrap over the surface and smooth.
chill until using.
DECORATING THE ROLLS
PREPARING THE YEASTED PUFF PASTRY DOUGH Transfer the vanilla pastry cream to the pastry bag. Once the
Knead all the water dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand rolls have cooled completely, pierce the bases with the pastry
mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase tip and fill with the cream. Dip the rolls into the chocolate
the speed to high and knead for 8 minutes until the dough is ganache, coating them halfway, and sprinkle with chopped
supple and elastic. The dough temperature should be between almonds. Let set on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
70°F (21°C) and 73°F (23°C). Roll the dough into a 6 X 12-in.
(15 x 30-cm) rectangle, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment
for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Roll the laminating (84%)
butter into an 8-in. (20-cm) square (seetechnique p. 62). Place
the butter in the center of the dough and fold the ends of
the dough over it to meet in the center, enclosing the but-
ter completely. Roll the dough into an approximate 8 x 20-in.
(20 x 50-cm) rectangle. Fold over the shorter ends of the dough
so they meet in the center, then fold the dough in half, like a
book, to make a double turn. Let rest for 15-30 minutes in the
refrigerator. Give the dough a quarter turn clockwise. Roll the
dough into an approximate 8 x 20-in. (20 x 50-cm) rectangle,
then fold it in 3, like a letter, to make a single turn. Let rest for
30 minutes in the refrigerator.

SHAPING AND PROOFING THE ROLLS

Place the cake rings on a baking sheet lined with parchment
paper. Roll the dough into a 12 x 20-in. (30 x 50-cm) rectangle.
Trim the edges all around, then roll the dough up from one long
side into a tight log. Cut the log into 12 slices, about 1in. (2.5 cm)
thick, and place the slices in the cake rings. Let proof in a steam
oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven
above a bowl of boiling water, for about 11/2 hours.

227
VIENNOISERIE

BABKA

Makes 2 babkas, Ingredients PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH

weighing 12.5 oz.
Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter and sugar, in the bowl
(350 g) each Brioche dough
of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. With the
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
Active time
all-purpose flour (gruau) mixer running on medium speed, add the butter and sugar and knead until
l½ hours
cup (90 g/90 ml)
l/3 completely incorporated (6-8 minutes). Make sure the dough temperature
water
Bulk fermentation time does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Transfer to a clean bowl, cover with plastic
¼ cup (2 oz./60 g)
1 hour wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room temperature. Perform a fold (see
lightly beaten egg
(about 11/A eggs) technique p. 48), cover the dough with plastic wrap, and let rest in the refrig-
Resting time
1 tsp (5 g) salt erator for about 30 minutes.
30 minutes
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh
Chilling time yeast
PREPARING THE DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE
30 minutes 4 tbsp (2.5 oz./65 g)
Finely chop the chocolate and place in a heatproof bowl. Bring the cream
butter, diced, at room
Proofing time temperature, plus to a boil in a saucepan, pour it over the chocolate, and stir to melt. Add the
extra for greasing
l½ hours butter and stir until smooth.
2 tbsp (25 g) sugar
Cooking time
Dark chocolate ganache SHAPING AND PROOFING THE BABKAS
25-30 minutes
3.5 oz. (100 g) dark Roll the dough into a 14 x 16-in. (35 x 40-cm) rectangle, 1/s-¼ in. (3-4 mm)
Storage chocolate, 70% cacao
thick, and trim the edges. Chill for 30 minutes, then spread the ganache
Up to 2 days 1/3cup (80 g/80 ml)
over the dough in an even layer. Starting with a long side, roll the rectangle
heavy cream,
Equipment min. 35% fat into a tight coil. Cut the roll in half lengthwise, then slice each half in two
Stand mixer+ dough l tbsp (20 g) butter, lengthwise down the middle. Make 2 two-strand braids (see technique p. 104)
hook diced, at room
with the cut sides facing upward. Grease the loaf pans with butter and place
temperature
Instant-read
one braided loaf in each. Place on a baking sheet. Let proof in a steam oven
thermometer
Egg wash set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of
2 loaf pans, 7 " 8½ in.
1 egg
(17 " 22 cm), 3 in. (8 cm) boiling water, for about 11/2 hours.
deep 1 egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
BAKING THE BABKAS
milk
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Whisk the egg wash ingredi-
ents together. Brush the babkas with the egg wash and bake for 25-30 min-
utes. Let cool in the pans for 10 minutes before turning out onto a rack to
cool completely.

228
VIENNOISERIE

EPIPHANY BR OCHE
Brioche des rois

Makes 2 brioches, Ingredients PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about
Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter, sugar, and orange-flower
101/2 oz:.(300 g) each Brioche dough
water, in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well
2 cups (9 02./250 g)
Active time
all-purpose flour (gruau) combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead for 6-8 minutes until
l½ hours
Scant 3/4 cup the dough is supple and elastic. With the mixer running on medium speed,
(5.75 02./165 g) lightly
Bulk fermentation time add the butter, sugar, and orange-flower water, and knead until completely
beaten egg (about
l hour+ 10-12 hours 3 eggs) incorporated (6-8 minutes). Make sure the dough temperature does not
in the refrigerator
l tsp (5 g) salt exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let
Proofing time 0.35 02. (10 g) fresh ferment for l hour at room temperature, folding it once (see technique p. 48)
yeast
l½ hours halfway through the fermentation time. Shape the dough into a ball, return
l stick + 2 tbsp
it to the bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest in the refrigerator for
Cooking time (5 02./140 g) butter,
diced, at room 10-12 hours.
25 minutes
temperature
Storage 2½ tbsp (l 02./30 g)
SHAPING .+.MDPROOFING THE BRIOCHE RINGS
sugar
Up to 2 days The next day. divide the dough into 2 pieces, about 5.25 oz. (150 g) each.
l-2 tsp (5-10 g/5-10 ml)
Equipment orange-flower water Shape each piece into a baguette-like log. 22 in. (55 cm) long. Join the ends
Stand mixer+ dough of each log together to make 2 rings. Place on baking sheets lined with
Egg wash
hook
parchment paper. Whisk together the egg wash ingredients and brush over
l egg
Instant-read
the dough rings. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a
thermometer l egg yolk
rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for about 11/2 hours.
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
milk
PREPARING THE SYRUP
Syrup
Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to
l cup (250 g/250 ml)
water dissolve the sugar. Let cool before using.
2/3cup (4.5 02./125 g)
sugar
BAKING THE BRIOCHE RINGS
Decoration Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Brush the rings again with
5.75 02. (160 g) candied egg wash and bake for about 25 minutes. As soon as the rings come out of
fruits of your choice
the oven, brush them with the syrup and arrange the dried fruit attractively
Pearl sugar
on top. Coat the sides with pearl sugar and let cool on a rack.

230
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VIENNOISERIE

IND VI DUAL PINK PRALINE BRIOCHES

Briochettes aux pralines roses

Makes 10 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of the stand
Active time Brioche dough
mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed
l½ hours 1 cup (4.25 oz./125 g)
all-purpose flour (gruau) to high and knead for 5 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. With
Bulk fermentation time
1 cup (4.25 oz./125 g) the mixer running on low speed, add the butter and knead for 5 minutes
30 minutes+ overnight white bread flour (T65)
until completely incorporated. Make sure the dough temperature does not
2/3 cup (5.25 oz./150 g)
Proofing time exceed 77°F-79°F (25°C-26°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic
lightly beaten egg
l½ hours (3 eggs), well chilled wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature. Fold the dough
2½ tsp (10 g) superfine once (see technique p. 48), cover again with plastic wrap, and let ferment over-
Cooking time
sugar
night in the refrigerator.
20 minutes
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh
yeast
Storage
SHAPING A.MD PROOFING THE DOUGH
1 tsp (5 g) salt
Up to 24 hours
The next day, grease the muffin pans with butter and place on a baking
in an airtight container 1 stick plus 2 tsp
(4.5 oz./125 g) butter, sheet. Divide the dough into 10 pieces, weighing 1.75 oz. (55 g) each, and
Equipment diced, at room
roll into 2 x 6-in. (5 x 15-cm) rectangles. Place about l oz. (25 g) pink pralines
temperature
Stand mixer+ dough
on one of the dough rectangles and fold it in 3, like a letter, as if giving the
hook
Butter for the pans
dough a single turn. Rotate the dough 90° clockwise, then gently roll it into
Instant-read
thermometer a 2 x 6-in. (5 x 15-cm) rectangle again. Top with 0.5 oz. (15 g) pralines, fold in 3,
Pink pralines
10 x 3-in. (8-cm) muffin and shape into a ball. Repeat with the other dough pieces and place them in
1 lb. (440 g) pink pralines
pans, l½ in. (4 cm) deep
(pralines roses), broken the molds. Let proof for 11/2 hours at room temperature in a draft-free place.
into rough pieces

Egg wash BA.KING THE BRIOCHES

1 egg Preheat the oven to 285°F (140°C/Gas Mark 1) on fan setting. The tem-
perature is low to prevent the pralines from caramelizing. Lightly beat the
egg and brush it over the brioches. Bake for about 20 minutes until lightly
golden. Let them cool in the pans before turning out.

232
•
VIENNOISERIE

/\

GACHE BRIOCHE

Makes 2 brioches Ingredients PREPARING THE PRE-FERMENT (1 DAY AHEAD)

to serve 6
Whisk together the flour, milk, and yeast in a bowl until smooth. Cover with
Pre-ferment
Active time plastic wrap and let ferment for 3 hours at room temperature.
12/3 cups (7 oz./200 g)
45 minutes all-purpose flour (T55)
½ cup (125 g/125 ml) PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
Pre-ferment
whole milk, well chilled
fermentation time Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter and sugar, in the bowl
0.25 oz. (8 g) fresh yeast,
3 hours of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase
crumbled
the speed to medium and knead for 6-8 minutes until the dough is supple
Bulk fermentation time
Brioche dough
and elastic. With the mixer running on medium speed, add the butter and
1 hour + overnight
Pre-ferment (seeabove)
in the refrigerator sugar and knead until completely incorporated (6-8 minutes). Make sure
12/3 cups (7 oz./200 g)
the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl,
Chilling time all-purpose flour (T55)
cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room temperature.
30 minutes Scant½ cup
(3.5 oz./100 g) lightly Fold the dough once (see technique p. 48), return it to the bowl, and cover with
Proofing time beaten egg (2 eggs)
plastic wrap. Let rest in the refrigerator overnight.
l½ hours Scant½ cup
(3.5 oz./100 g) creme
Cooking tjme fraiche SHAPING AND PROOFING THE BRIOCHES
20-30 minutes 0.5 oz. (12 g) fresh yeast The next day, divide the dough into 2 pieces. Shape into balls and chill for

Storage
2 tsp (10 g) salt 30 minutes. Shape each ball into a batard (see technique p. 51) and place on
5 tsp (20 g/20 ml) rum a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Whisk together the egg wash
Up to 2 days
1 stick + 2 tsp ingredients and brush over the brioches. Let proof in a steam oven set to
Equipment (4.5 oz./125 g) butter,
75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling
diced, at room
Stand mixer+ dough
temperature water, for about 11/2 hours.
hook
cup (2.75 oz./75 g)
l/3
Instant-read
sugar
thermometer BAKING THE BRIOCHES
Bread lame Egg wash Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Using the bread lame,
1 egg slash each brioche lengthwise down the center. Bake for 20-30 minutes
1 egg yolk until golden brown. Immediately transfer to a rack and let cool at room
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole temperature.
milk

234
VIENNOISERIE

BRAIDED VEN DEE BRIOCHE

Brioche vendeenne

Makes 2 brioches Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTfE (2 DAYS AHEAD)

to serve 6-8
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
Pate fermentee
Active time and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes, until smooth. Place in a
2/3cup + 1 tbsp
1 hour (3 oz./90 g) white bread bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
Aour (T65)
Pate fermentee
Scant 1/4 cup PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
fermentation time
(56 g/56 ml) water
Overnight Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter, sugar, and aromatics
¼ tsp (1.5 g) salt
(rum, orange-flower water, and vanilla powder) in the bowl of the stand
Bulk fermentation time 0.05 oz..(1.5 g) fresh
yeast mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to
1 hour + overnight
in the refrigerator medium and knead for 6-8 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. With
Brioche dough
the mixer running on medium speed, add the butter and sugar and knead for
Proofing time 5.25 oz. (150 g) pate
fermentee (seeabove) 6-8 minutes until incorporated. Add the aromatics and continue to knead for
l½ hours
Scant 4½ cups 1-2 minutes. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C).
Cooking time (1 lb. 2 oz./500 g)
Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at
all-purpose flour (T55)
20-30 minutes
room temperature. Fold the dough once (see technique p. 48), return it to the
1 cup (8.75 oz./250 g)
Storage lightly beaten egg bowl. and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest in the refrigerator overnight.
(5 eggs)
Up to 2 days
cup (80 g/80 ml)
l/3
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE BRAIDED BRIOCHES
Equipment whole milk
The next day. divide the dough into 6 pieces. Shape each piece into a 20-in.
Stand mixer+ dough 0.75 oz. (20 g) fresh
hook yeast (50-cm) strand, then make 2 three-strand braids (see technique p.106). Place on
Instant-read 2 tsp (10 g) salt a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Whisk the egg wash ingredients
thermometer
1 stick + 2 tbsp together and brush over the braids. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F
(5.25 oz./150 g)
(24°C). or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water,
butter, diced, at room
temperature for about l½ hours.
Scant 1/3 cup (2 oz./60 g)
sugar
BAKING THE BRAIDED BRIOCHES
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) rum
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Brush the brioches again
1 tsp (5 g/5 ml) orange-
with egg wash and sprinkle with pearl sugar. Bake for 20-30 minutes
Aower water
until golden brown. Immediately transfer to a rack and let cool at room
1 tsp (5 g) vanilla powder
temperature.
Egg wash
1 egg
1 egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
milk

Decoration
Pearl sugar

236
•
VIENNOISERIE

VEGAN BRIOCHE
Brioche vegan

Makes 5 brioches, Ingredients PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH

weighing about 4.25 oz.
In a saucepan, bring 3 1/2 tbsp (50 g/50 ml) of the soy milk to a boil. Stirring,
(120 g) each Vegan brioche dough
pour the soy milk over the chickpea flour in a bowl. Stir until smooth. Cover
l/3 cup (75 g/75 ml)
Active time
soy milk, divided the bowl with plastic wrap and let rest for at least l hour, or preferably over-
45 minutes
Scant 2/3 cup night, in the refrigerator. Place the pumpkin puree and mashed banana in
(l.75 oz./50 g) chickpea
Resting time the bowl of the stand mixer. Add the chilled chickpea flour-soy milk paste,
Aour
At least l hour, then add the all-purpose flour, remaining soy milk, and yeast. Knead on low
l/3 cup (2.5 oz./75 g)
or preferably overnight,
pumpkin puree speed until well combined and completely smooth (this could take up to
+ 30 minutes
1 banana, mashed about 30 minutes). Add the salt and sugar and knead for a few minutes until
Bulk fermentation time
12/3cups (7 oz./200 g) dissolved and well distributed. Pour in the oil in 6 equal quantities, kneading
30 minutes all-purpose flour (gruau)
after each addition until the dough has completely absorbed it. Cover the
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh
Chilling time bowl with plastic wrap and let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature.
yeast, crumbled
At least l hour, Gently fold the dough (see technique p. 48), cover with plastic wrap, and chill
1 tsp (5 g) salt
or preferably overnight
for at least l hour, or overnight.
2½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g)
Proofing time sugar
l½ hours Scant½ cup SHAPING THE DOUGH
(105 g/120 ml) neutral
Divide the dough into 30 pieces weighing 0.75 oz. (20 g) each and roll
Cooking time vegetable oil
them into balls. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes in the
20 minutes A little soy milk for
brushing refrigerator. Roll into smooth balls again, then place 6 in each pan in a stag-
Storage
gered pattern. Let proof in a steam oven set to 77°F (25°C), or on a rack in
Vegan crumb topping
Up to 2 days
in a well-sealed paper Generous 2 tbsp
a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for l½ hours.
bag or well wrapped (1 oz./30 g) brown sugar
in a clean dish towel
l/3 cup (1.5 oz./40 g) PREPARING THE VEGAN CRUMB TOPPING AND BAKING THE BRIOCHES
whole wheat flour
Equipment Preheat the oven to 325°F {160°C/Gas Mark3). Chill the proofed brioches in
2 tbsp (1 oz./30 g)
Stand mixer + paddle the refrigerator for 5 minutes, then brush with soy milk. Combine the crumb
margarine, well chilled
beater
and diced topping ingredients using your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse
5 nonstick loaf pans, Scant¼ cup (20 g)
3 x 7 in. (8 x 18 cm), crumbs. Take care not to overmix, to avoid turning the crumbs into a paste.
almond flour
3 in. (8 cm) deep Sprinkle the topping over the brioches and press down gently to make it
Scant¼ tsp (1 g) salt
stick. Bake for about 20 minutes until golden. Immediately turn the loaves
Ground cinnamon
out of the pans and let them cool completely on a rack.
to taste

CHEFS'NOTES

• When starch comes inlo contact with a hot liquid,

it gelatinizes. Using gelatinized starch in this recipe
locks moisture in the dough. This makes the brioche
more moist and spongy, and compensates
for the absence of animal fats and eggs.

• It can take a while to make this dough smooth,

but mixing on low speed prevents it from getting too hot.

238
I
VIENNOISERIE

KOUGELHOPF
Kouglof

Makes 2 kougelhopfs Ingredients PREPARING THE PRE-FERMENT (1 DAY AHEAD)

to serve 6-8
Whisk together the flour, milk, and yeast in a bowl until smooth. Cover with
Pre-ferment
Active time plastic wrap and let ferment for 3 hours at room temperature.
¾cup+ 2 tbsp
1 hour (3.5 oz./100 g)
all-purpose flour (T55)
PREPARING THE KOUGELHOPF DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
Pre-ferment
¼ cup (60 g/60 ml)
fermentation time Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter and sugar, in the bowl
whole milk, well chilled
3 hours of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase
0.25 oz. (8 g) fresh yeast,
crumbled the speed to medium and knead for 6-8 minutes until the dough is supple
Bulk fermentation time
and elastic. With the mixer running on medium speed, add the butter and
1 hour + overnight Kougelhopf dough
in the refrigerator
Pre-ferment (seeabove)
sugar and knead until completely incorporated (6-8 minutes). Make sure
the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl,
Chilling time 3¼ cups (14 oz./400 9)
all-purpose flour (T55) cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room temperature.
30 minutes
Scant½ cup Fold the dough once (see technique p. 48), return it to the bowl, and cover with
Proofing time (3.5 oz./100 g) lightly
plastic wrap. Let rest in the refrigerator overnight.
beaten egg (2 eggs)
l½ hours
½ cup minus l tbsp
Cooking tjme (110 g/110 ml) whole milk SHAPING AND PROOFING THE KOUGELHOPFS
30-35 minutes 0.5 oz. (12 g) fresh yeast The next day, divide the dough into 2 pieces. Shape into balls and chill for
2 tsp (10 g) salt 30 minutes. Grease the molds with a little butter and arrange the almonds
Storage
7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g) around the base of each, placing them in the grooves. Shape each dough ball
Up to 2 days
butter, diced, at room
into a small ring by making a hole in the center (see technique p. 98). Transfer
temperature
Equipment
the dough to the molds, taking care not to displace the almonds. Let proof
½ cup minus l½ tbsp
Stand mixer+ dough
(2.75 oz./80 g) sugar in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven
hook
above a bowl of boiling water, for about 11/2 hours.
Instant-read To bake and serve
thermometer
Butter for the molds
2 x 8-in. (20-cm) silicone BAKING THE KOUGELHOPFS
2 tbsp (20 g) whole
kougelhopf molds
almonds Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4) and bake the kougelhopfs
Confectioners' sugar for 30-35 minutes. Turn them carefully out of the molds onto a rack to cool.
Once they have cooled completely, dust the tops with confectioners' sugar.

240
VIENNOISERIE

PANETTONE

Makes 2 panettones, Levain bath

weighing 1 lb. (450 g)
3.25 oz. (90 g) ripe stiff
each
levain (seetechniquep. 38)
Active time ¾ tsp (3 g) superfine
sugar
2 hours
Scant 1 cup
Maceration time (230 g/230 ml) water
at l00°F (38°C)
4 hours
Refreshed levain
Soaking time
2.5 oz. (75 g) "washed"
30 minutes
levain (seeabove)
Levain fermentation 2/3 cup (2.5 oz./75 g)
time all-purpose flour (gruau)
3 hours 2 tbsp+ 1 tsp
(35 g/35 ml) whole milk
Bulk fermentation time at 86°F (30°C)
2 hours
Panettone dough
Proofing time 6.5 oz. (185 g) refreshed
levain (seeabove)
3 hours
½ tsp (3 g) salt
Cooking time
0.15 oz. (4 g) fresh yeast
35 minutes
Scant½ cup
(4.25 oz./120 Y) egg yolk
Cooling time
(about 6 yolks
40 minutes
Scant½ cup
(2.75 oz./80 g) superfine •
Storage
sugar, divided
Up to 1 week well covered •
1 cup + scant½ cup
in plastic wrap
(6 oz./175 g) all-purpose
flour (gruau)
• •

Equipment
1 stick (4 oz./115 g)
Stand mixer + dough hook
butter, diced, at room
Instant-read thermometer temperature
Bowl scraper 2/3 cup (5.25 oz./150 g)

2 x 5½-in. (14-cm) paper li!htly beaten eg~

( eggs), well chil ed
panettone molds,
(for bassinage)
5 in. (12 cm) deep
!Vlacerated fruit and nuts
Pastd ~ag with a plain (seeleft), drained
roun tip
4 metal or wooden Neutral oil and butter
skewers for greasing

Ingredients Almond glaze

Scant 1 cup
Macerated dried fruit
(3.25 oz./90 g) almond
and nuts
flour
½ cup (2.5 oz./70 g)
Scant 1/3 cup (2 oz./60 g)
ra1s1ns
superfine sugar
½ cup (2.5 oz./70 g)
¼ cup (2 oz./60 g) egg
hazelnuts, chopped
white (about 2 whites)
½ cup (2.5 oz./70 g)
dried cranberries Decoration
2½ tbsp (40 g/40 ml) Sliced almonds
rum
Confectioners' sugar

242
MACERATING THE DRIED FRUIT AND HUTS SHAPING AND PROOFING THE PANETTOHES
Place the raisins, hazelnuts, and cranberries in a bowl with the Divide the dough into 2 pieces weighing l lb. (450 g) each and
rum and let macerate for 4 hours. place on a work surface lightly greased with butter. Shape each
piece into a tight ball by tucking the bowl scraper underneath
"BATHING" THE LEVAIN as you rotate the dough against the work surface. Place in the
Cut the stiff levain into 3/4-in. (2-cm) dice. In a bowl large panettone molds on a baking sheet. Let proof in a steam oven
enough to hold the levain, stir the sugar into the water until set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a
dissolved. Add the diced levain and let soak for 30 minutes. bowl of boiling water, for about 3 hours. The dough should rise
This "bath", known as bagnetto in Italian, balances the acidity to the tops of the molds or slightly above them.
and gives the levain a milder taste.
PREPARING THE ALMOND GLAZE
REFRESHING THE LEVAIN Stir together all the ingredients until well combined and trans-
Knead all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on fer to the pastry bag.
low speed for 5 minutes, adding a little more milk if the levain
is too stiff and won't come together. Turn the levain out onto a BAKING THE PANETTONES
work surface, then roll it out and fold it several times to make Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2) on fan setting.
it smooth, rotating it 90° clockwise each time. Roll the levain Pipe the almond glaze evenly over the tops of the panettones,
out again, place it on a sheet of plastic wrap greased with a then sprinkle with sliced almonds and dust with confection-
little neutral oil or butter, and roll it up very tightly. Let ferment ers' sugar. Bake for about 35 minutes until uniformly golden.
in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off Panettone is very fragile right after baking and can easily col-
oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 3 hours. lapse. To avoid this, pierce all the way through the panettones
from side to side with two skewers, just above the base, hang
PREPARING THE PAHETTONE DOUGH them upside down, and let cool for 40 minutes.
Knead the levain, salt, yeast, egg yolk, and half the sugar in the
bowl of the stand mixer on low speed until the salt, sugar, and
yeast are dissolved and the levain diluted. Add the flour and
knead on low speed until well combined, then increase the
speed to high and knead until the dough is completely smooth
(even when smooth, this dough will still stick to the sides of the
bowl). Add the remaining sugar and knead until smooth again,
then add the butter and knead until the butter is incorporated
and the dough completely smooth. With the mixer running
on low speed, gradually add the egg in 5 equal quantities, as
needed, depending on the consistency of the dough, which
should be smooth, very supple, and sticky {bassinage). Add
the macerated fruit and nuts and knead until well distributed.
Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 79°F-8l°F
(26°C-27°C). Place the dough in a large bowl and cover with
plastic wrap. Let ferment for l hour in a steam oven set to 75°F
(24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling
water. After 1 hour, give the dough one fold (see technique p. 48),
then cover the bowl again with plastic wrap and return it to
the steam oven set to 75°F (24°C) or a turned-off oven above
a bowl of boiling water. Let ferment for an additional l hour.
VIENNOISERIE

CHOCOLATE CH P VIENNA BREAD

Viennoise aux pepites de chocolat

Makes 6 small Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

baguettes, weighing
2.75 oz. (80 g) pate Knead all the ingredients, except the butter and chocolate chips, in the bowl
about 6.75 oz. (190 g}
fermentee (see recipe
each of the stand mixer on low speed for 4 minutes until well combined. Increase
p.142)
the speed to high and knead for 4 minutes until the dough is supple and
Active time 3¼ cups (14 oz./400 g)
white bread flour (T65) elastic. With the mixer running on low speed, add the butter and knead until
1 hour
¾cup+ 2 tbsp completely incorporated (6-8 minutes). Add the chocolate chips and knead
Bulk fermentation time (3.5 oz./100 g) all-
for a few seconds until evenly distributed. Make sure the dough temperature
purpose flour (gruau)
45 minutes-1 hour
does not exceed 75°F {24°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover with
l egg
Resting time plastic wrap, and let ferment for 45 minutes-1 hour at room temperature.
Scant l cup
15 minutes (230 g/230 ml) water
¼ cup (25 g) milk SHAPING AND PROOFING THE BAGUETTES
Proofing time
powder
Divide the dough into 6 pieces weighing about 6.75 oz. (190 g) each. Shape
l¼-1½ hours
2½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g)
into small baguettes (see technique p. 51) and place in the baguette pans. Let
sugar
Cooking time
rest for 15 minutes. Whisk the egg wash ingredients together and brush
l oz. (25 g) fresh yeast
12-15 minutes
over the baguettes, then score with diagonal slashes using the bread lame
2 tsp (10 g) salt
Storage {see technique p. 57). Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F {24°C), or place on
3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
Up to 2 days butter, diced, at room a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 1¼-1 1/2 hours.
temperature
Equipment
Scant l cup
BAKING THE BAGUETTES
Stand mixer+ dough (5.25 oz./150 g)
hook chocolate chips Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Brush the baguettes
Instant-read again with egg wash and bake for 12-15 minutes. Immediately remove the
Egg wash
thermometer
baguettes from the pans, place on a rack, and let cool at room temperature.
l egg
Baguette pans
for 6 half-baguettes l egg yolk
Bread lame 2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
milk

244
VIENNOISERIE

CARDAMOM BR OCHE BUNS

Brioche a la cardamome

Makes 2 brioches, Ingredients PREPARIMG THE MILK LEVAIM

each to serve 4
Whisk the levain and warm milk vigorously in the bowl of the stand mixer to
Milk levain
Active time aerate the levain and make it frothy. Change the whisk for the dough hook
1 oz. (25 g) ripe liquid
2 hours levain (see technique p. 40) attachment, add the flour, and knead on low speed for 5 minutes until well
2 tbsp (30 g/30 ml) combined. Shape the dough into a very tight ball and cut a cross on the top.
Fermentation time
whole milk at ll3°F
(45°C)
Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment in a steam
3 hours
oven set to 95°F (35°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl
2/3cup (2.5 oz./75 g)
Bulk fermentation time
white bread flour (T65) of boiling water, for 3 hours.
2 hours
Brioche dough
Resting time PREPARIMG THE BRIOCHE DOUGH
Milk levain (see above)
30 minutes Knead the milk levain, flour, egg, milk, salt, and half the sugar in the bowl of
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
white bread flour (T65) the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase
Proofing time
l½ hours
Scant½ cup the speed to high and knead until supple and elastic. With the mixer running
(3.5 oz./100 g) lightly
on low speed, knead in the remaining sugar, then add the butter and knead
beaten egg (2 eggs),
Cooking tjme
well chilled until the dough is completely smooth. Make sure the dough temperature
20 minutes
3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml) does not exceed 77°F (25°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap,
whole milk, well chilled
Storage and let ferment for l hour at room temperature. Fold the dough (see technique
1 tsp (6 g) salt
Up to 1 week well p. 48), cover again with plastic wrap, and let ferment for an additional l hour.
covered in plastic wrap Scant 1/3 cup (2 oz./60 g)
Divide the dough into 8 pieces weighing 3.25 oz. (90 g) each, and gently
superfine sugar, divided
Equipment shape each one into a ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 min-
7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g)
Stand mixer + whisk butter, diced, at room utes at room temperature.
and dough hook temperature
Instant-read
Cardamom butter PREPA.RIMG THE CARDAMOM BUTIER
thermometer
7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g) Place the butter, brown sugar, and ground cardamom in a bowl and stir until
butter, softened
well blended. Set aside at room temperature until using. (Do not chill, as it
½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g)
will be too difficult to spread.)
brown sugar
2 tbsp (16 g) ground
cardamom SHAPIMG THE BUMS
Roll each piece of dough into a 7-in. (18-cm) disk (if the dough sticks or
resists, place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes). Brush a little water
around the edges of 6 disks of dough to moisten. Divide the cardamom
butter between these 6 disks and spread into an even layer. Stack 3 carda-
mom butter-covered disks one on top of the other, and place one of the
plain disks on top. Do the same with the remaining dough disks. Cut each
stack into 12 equal parts resembling flower petals, leaving a :¼-in. (2-cm)
uncut section in the center. In each ''petal," make a cut lengthways down the
center, leaving a border of about 1/16- 1/a in. (2-3 mm) at the outer edge. To
CHEFS'NOTES
make the layers visible, turn them to face upward and bring them together.
Place the buns on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and let proof
Milk levain combines the advantages
in a steam oven set to (75°F/24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above
of stiff and liquid levains. It has
a bowl of boiling water, for 11/2 hours.
the texture of stiff levain, which gives
the dough significant strength,
BAKIMG THE BUMS
and Lhe rich milky notes of liquid levain.
Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2) and bake the buns for
20 minutes.

246
VIENNOISERIE

HAZELNUT AND CHOCOLATE PUFF PASTRES

,
Ecrin feuillete aux noisettes

Makes8 Hazelnut base dough

8 oz. (225 g) plain base
Active time
dough (seeleft)
3 hours
Scant l tbsp (10 g)
hazelnut paste
Bulk fermentation time
l¼ tsp (3 g)
15 minutes
unsweetened cocoa
powder
Freezing time
Chocolate base dough
13/4 hours
8 oz. (225 g) plain base
Proofing time dough (seeleft)
l½ hours 2 tbsp + ½ tsp (15 g)
unsweetened cocoa
Cooking tjme powder
20 minutes 2 tsp (10 g) butter,
at room temperature •
Storage
2 tsp (10 g) whole milk,
Up to several days well chilled
in an airtight container
Laminating butter
Equipment 22/3 sticks
(10½ oz./300 g) butter,
Stand mixer+ dough
preferably 84% fat
hook
Instant-read Hazelnut financier
thermometer batter
Pastry bag with a plain 4 tbsp (l.75 oz./55 g)
round tip butter
8 x 4-in. (10-cm) baking ½ cup (l.75 oz./50 g)
rings,¾ in. (2 cm) deep hazelnut Aour
5-in. (12-cm) round ¼ cup (1.5 oz./35 g)
cookie cutter white bread flour (T65)
4-in. (10-cm) round Seant 2/3 cup
cookie cutter (2.75 oz./80 g)
confectioners' sugar
Ingredients
Scant 1/3 cup
(2.25 oz./65 g) egg
Yeasted puff pastry white (about 2 whites)
dough
Plain base dough Dark chocolate ganache
with cacao nibs
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
all-purpose Aour (gruau) 5.25 oz. (150 g) dark
chocolate, 70% cacao
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
white bread Aour (T65) 1/3 cup (95 g/95 ml)
heavy cream, min. 35%
l cup+ 5 tsp
fat
(270 g/270 ml) whole
milk, well chilled 1.5 oz. (40 g) cacao nibs
2 tbsp (25 g) butter,
Syrup
diced, at room
temperature ¼ cup (60 g/60 ml)
water
Scant 1/3 cup (2 oz./60 g)
superfine sugar Scant½ cup
(3¼ oz./90 g) sugar
0.75 oz. (20 g) fresh
yeast
2 tsp (10 g) salt

248
PREPARING THE PLAIN, HAZELNUT, A.HD CHOCOLATE BA.SEDOUGHS PREPARING THE DARK CHOCOLATE GANA.CHE WITH CA.CAO NIBS
Knead all the plain base dough ingredients in the bowl of the Finely chop the chocolate and place it in a heatproof bowl.
stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Bring the cream to a boil in a saucepan, pour it over the choc-
Increase the speed to high and knead for 5 minutes until the olate, and stir to melt. Stir in the cacao nibs.
dough is supple and elastic. Make sure the dough temperature
does not exceed 70°F-73°F (21°C-23°C) for any of the base SHA.PING THE PUFF PASTRY LA.YEAS
doughs. Divide the dough into 4 pieces weighing 8 oz. (225 g) Grease the baking rings with butter and place on a baking
each and set 2 aside (these will remain plain). To prepare the sheet lined with parchment paper. Roll one of the pieces of
hazelnut base dough, knead the plain base dough, hazelnut plain yeasted puff pastry dough into a 4 x 16-in. (10 x 40-cm)
paste, and cocoa powder in the bowl of the stand mixer on rectangle with a thickness of 1/6 in. (4 mm) and lightly moisten
medium speed until well blended and smooth. Remove from the surface with water. Roll the other pieces to the same dimen-
the bowl. To prepare the chocolate base dough, knead the plain sions and thickness and cut each one crosswise into strips 1/2 in.
base dough, cocoa powder, butter, and milk in the bowl of the (1cm) wide. Moisten the strips and, alternating the colors, stick
stand mixer on medium speed until well blended and smooth. them together, one on top of the other, then place on the plain
Gently flatten the 4 pieces of dough into ovals, then fold the pastry rectangle with the cut sides facing up so the puff pastry
top and bottom edges toward the center and turn the pieces layers are visible. Roll out together to a thickness of about
over. Cover with plastic wrap and let ferment for 15 minutes 1/10 in. (2.5 mm) to obtain a 16 x 24-in. (40 x 60-cm) rectangle.
at room temperature. Roll each piece of dough into a 4 x 8-in. Cut out 8 disks of the multicolored dough using the 5-in. (12-cm)
(10 x 20-cm) rectangle with a thickness of¼ in. (5 mm), cover cutter. Line the base and sides of the baking rings with the
with plastic wrap, and freeze for 30 minutes. disks; the dough should come about halfway up the sides of
the rings. Set the remaining dough aside for the tops.
LA.MINA.TING THE PUFF PASTRY DOUGH

Divide the 84% butter into 4 pieces weighing 2.5 oz. (75 g) ASSEMBLING THE PASTRIES
each. Roll each piece into a 4-in. (10-cm) square (see technique Fill each base with 1.25 oz. (35 g) ganache and 1.25 oz. (35 g)
p. 62). Freeze for 15 minutes. Working with one piece of dough financier batter, spreading each one into an even layer. Cut out
at a time, place a square of butter in the center and fold the 8 disks of multicolored dough using the 4-in. (10-cm) cutter and
dough over to enclose the butter completely, obtaining a cover the pastries with them. Let proof for 11/2 hours at room
square. Dust the work surface very lightly with flour and roll temperature in a draft-free place.
the dough into a 4 x 16-in. (10 x 40-cm) rectangle. To give the
dough a single turn, fold the bottom third of the dough upward, PREPA.RING THE SYRUP
then fold the top third down over it (seetechnique p. 64). Cover Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil,
the dough with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes in the stirring until the sugar dissolves. Set aside at room temperature.
freezer. Repeat these steps once more to give the dough
another single turn. Do the same with all 4 pieces of dough, BA.KING THE PASTRIES
making sure they are all the same length. Cover with plastic Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C/Gas Mark3) on fan setting.
wrap and let rest for 30 minutes in the freezer. Cover the rings with a sheet of parchment paper and place a
baking sheet on top to keep the pastry flat during baking. Bake
PREPARING THE HA.ZELHUT FINANCIER BA.TTER for 20 minutes. As soon as the pastries are taken out of the
Make browned butter (beurre noisette) by heating the butter oven, carefully remove the baking rings and brush the pastries
in a saucepan beyond the melting point until it turns golden with a little syrup.
brown and has a slightly nutty aroma. Remove from the heat
and let cool. Mix together the hazelnut flour, bread flour, and
confectioners' sugar in a bowl, then gradually whisk in the egg
white. Pour in the cooled browned butter and stir until well
blended. Transfer to the pastry bag.

249
VIENNOISERIE

PROVENc;AL OLIVE 01 L BRIOCHE

Pompe ahuile

Makes 3 brioches, Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

weighing about 11.25 oz.
4 cups+ 2 tbsp Knead all the ingredients, except the 3 tbsp (40 g/44 ml) olive oil for the
(320 g) each
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) bassinage stage, in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for 3 minutes
all-purpose flour (T55)
Active time
until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead for 10 min-
l cup minus 3 tbsp
l hour
(200 g/200 ml) water utes until the dough is supple. Gradually add the 3 tbsp (40 g/44 ml) olive
Bulk fermentation time 13/4tsp (9 g) salt oil as needed, depending on the consistency of the dough, which should
2 hours+ 10-12 hours 0.75 oz. (20 g) fresh be supple (bassinage). Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed
in the refrigerator yeast
77°F (25°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment
3 tbsp (40 g/44 ml)
Resting time for 2 hours at room temperature, folding the dough once after l hour (see
olive oil
30 minutes technique p. 48). After 2 hours at room temperature, shape the dough into
2 tbsp+ 1 tsp
(35 g/35 ml) orange a ball, return it to the bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let ferment for
Proofing time
JUICe
10-12 hours in the refrigerator.
l hour
1tbsp (15 g/15 ml) lemon
JUiee
Cooking time
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
l/3 cup (2.75 oz./75 g)
18-20 minutes
lightly beaten egg The next day, divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing 11.25 oz. (320 g)
(about l½ eggs)
Storage each. Shape into balls and let rest for 30 minutes. Shape each ball into a
Scant 1 tsp (3 g) green 1/4
Up to 24 hours 12-in. (30-cm) disk, in. (5 mm) thick, and place on a baking sheet lined
aniseed
with parchment paper. Using the bench scraper, make 8 slits in each one,
Equipment Finely grated zest
of 1 lemon radiating out from the center (as shown in the photograph). Let proof in a
Stand mixer+ dough
hook Finely grated zest steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a
of 1 orange
Instant-read bowl of boiling water, for about l hour.
thermometer 3 tbsp (40 g/44 ml) olive
oil (for bassinage)
Bench scraper
BAKING THE BRIOCHES
To finish Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Olive oil
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a
simmer. Place the brioches in the oven and carefully pour the simmering
water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly
close the oven door and bake for 18-20 minutes until golden. As soon as
the brioches come out of the oven, brush them with olive oil. Transfer them
to a rack and let cool.

250
 •

..
VIENNOISERIE

JAM DONUTS
Beignets

Makes6 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

2 cups (9 oz./250 g) Knead the flour, egg, milk, sugar, yeast, and salt in the bowl of the stand
Active time
white bread flour (T65)
mixer on low speed until well combined. Increase the speed to high and
1 hour
¼ cup (2 oz./60 g)
knead until the dough is supple and elastic. Incorporate the butter on low
lightly beaten egg
Bulk fermentation time
(about 1¼ eggs) speed, then increase the speed and continue kneading to maintain a supple
30 minutes 1/3
cup (75 g/75 ml) texture. tv1ake sure the dough temperature does not exceed 77°F-79°F
whole milk, well chilled
Freezing time (25°C-26°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl and cover with plastic wrap
5 tsp (20 g) sugar
1 hour or a clean dish towel. Let ferment for 30 minutes at room temperature. Fold
1.75 oz. (50 g) fresh
the dough gently (see technique p. 48) and lay a piece of plastic wrap over the
Proofing time yeast
top. Flatten to a thickness of 3/4 in. (2 cm) and freeze for 30 minutes. Roll the
30 minutes 1 tsp (5 g) salt
dough into a 10 x 14-in. (25 x 35-cm) rectangle, about 1/s in. (2.5 mm) thick.
3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g)
Cooking time
butter, diced, at room Freeze for another 30 minutes.
3 minutes per donut temperature
Your choice of jam
Storage SHAPING THE DONUTS
or chocolate spread
Up to 2 days in an (see technique p.120) Using the cutter, cut out 12 x 3-in. (8-cm) disks. Place half the disks on a
airtight container for filling
baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush a little water around the
Neutral oil for deep-
Equipment edges to moisten. Using the pastry bag, pipe jam or chocolate spread in the
frying
Stand mixer+ dough center of each dough disk, then cover with a second disk. Press the edges
Sugar for coating
hook
together to seal firmly. Place the donuts on a lightly floured baking sheet
Instant-read
and let proof for about 30 minutes at room temperature in a draft-free place.
thermometer
3-in. (8-cm) round cookie
cutter COOKING THE DONUTS
Pastry bag Heat the oil in the deep fryer to 340°F (170°C). Immerse the donuts in the
Deep fryer oil, turning them over once the first side is golden to cook the other side.
Drain on paper towel, then roll in sugar to coat.

252
VIENNOISERIE

LYONNAISE FRITTERS
Bugnes

Serves 6 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

2 cups (9 oz./250 g) Knead all the ingredients, except the butter, orange-flower water, rum, and
Active time
white bread flour (T65)
citrus zests, in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed until well combined.
l½ hours
l/3 cup (2.75 oz./75 g)
Increase the speed to high and knead until the dough is supple and elastic.
lightly beaten egg
Bulk fermentation time
(about 1½ eggs) Incorporate the butter on low speed, then increase the speed and continue
30 minutes
¼ cup (60 g/60 ml) kneading to maintain a supple texture. Add the remaining ingredients and
whole milk, well chilled
Freezing time knead until just combined. Make sure the dough temperature does not
2½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g)
1 hour exceed 77°F-79°F (25°C-26°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl and cover
sugar
with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel. Let ferment for 30 minutes at room
Proofing time 0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
temperature. Fold the dough gently (see technique p. 48) and lay a piece of
30 minutes 1 tsp (5 g) salt
plastic wrap over the top. Flatten to a thickness of 3/4 in. (2 cm) and freeze
3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g)
Cooking time 1/s
butter, diced, at room for 30 minutes. Roll the dough into a 16-in. (40-cm) square, about in.
3 minutes per batch temperature
(3.5 mm) thick. Freeze for another 30 minutes.
of fritters
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml)
orange-flower water
Storage
SHAPING THE FRITTERS
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) amber
Up to 24 hours
rum Using the chef's knife or pasta cutter, cut out strips measuring 2 3/4 in. (7 cm)
in an airtight container
Finely grated zest in width, then cut the strips into diamond shapes with 11/2-in. (4-cm) sides.
Equipment of l orange
Cut a small diagonal slit in the center of each diamond and pass a knife tip
Stand mixer+ dough Finely grated zest
through the slits to open them up a bit. Place on a lightly floured baking sheet
hook of 1 lemon
and let proof for about 30 minutes at room temperature in a draft-free place.
Instant-read Neutral oil
thermometer for deep-frying
Chef's knife Confectioners' sugar COOKING THE FRITTERS
or pasta cutter for dusting
Heat the oil in the deep fryer to 350°F (180°C). Immerse the fritters in the
Deep fryer
oil, turning them over once the first side is lightly golden. Drain on paper
towel and dust with confectioners' sugar.

254
-
VIENNOISERIE

RING DONUTS

Makes 12 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

Knead all the ingredients, except the butter, in the bowl of the stand mixer
Active time Dough
on low speed until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead
l½ hours 2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
white bread flour (T65) until the dough is supple and elastic. Incorporate the butter on low speed,
Bulk fermentation time
3 tbsp (2 oz./50 g) then increase the speed and knead to maintain a supple texture. Make sure
30 minutes lightly beaten egg the dough temperature does not exceed 77°F-79°F (25°C-26°C). Place in a
(l egg), well chilled
Freezing time 1/3 clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes at room
cup (90 g/90 ml)
1 hour whole milk temperature. Fold the dough gently (see technique p. 48) and lay a piece of
2½ tsp (10 g) sugar plastic wrap over the top. Flatten to a thickness of 3/.s in. (2 cm) and freeze
Proofing time
l¼ tsp (5 g) baking for 30 minutes. Roll the dough into a 10 x 14-in. (25 x 35-cm) rectangle, about
30 minutes
powder 1/a in. (2.5 mm) thick. Freeze for another 30 minutes.
Cooking time 1 tsp (5 g) salt
3 minutes per donut 3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g)
PREPARING THE SUGAR GLUE
butter, diced, at room
Storage tjme temperature Melt the butter with the confectioners' sugar in a saucepan over low heat,
Up to 24 hours stirring using a spatula. Gradually add the water, stirring after each addition
Sugar glaze
in an airtight container
until smooth. Let cool at room temperature until using.
7 tbsp (3.5 oz./100 g)
Equipment butter
Stand mixer+ dough 21/3 cups (10 oz./300 g) PREPARING THE CHOCOLATE GLAZE
hook confectioners' sugar
Place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Bring the cream to a boil in a
Instant-read 5 tsp (20 g/20 ml) water
saucepan and pour half of it over the chocolate. Let melt for several seconds.
thermometer
Chocolate glaze Pour in the remaining cream, add the butter, and stir until smooth. Let cool
3-in. (8-cm) round cookie
cutter 7 oz. (200 g) dark at room temperature, allowing it to thicken but not set.
chocolate, 70% cacao,
l½-in. (4-cm) round
finely chopped
cookie cutter
SHAPING THE DONUTS
Scant 1 cup
Deep fryer
(225 g/225 ml) heavy Cut out 12 parchment paper rectangles measuring 4 x 6 in. (10 x 15 cm) each
cream, min. 35% fat
and place on a baking sheet. Using the 3-in. (8-cm) cutter, cut out 12 dough
2 tbsp (l oz./30 g) disks, then cut out the centers using the 11/2-in. (4-cm) cutter. Place each
butter, diced, at room
temperature ring on a parchment rectangle near to one edge of the paper. Let proof in a
steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off oven above
To deep-fry
a bowl of boiling water, for about 30 minutes.
Neutral oil

Topping suggestions
FRYING THE DONUTS
Superfine sugar Heat the oil in the deep fryer to 340°F (170°C). Place one donut at a time,
Puffed rice cereal
still on the parchment paper, in the oil. The donut will slide off after a few
Chocolate sprinkles
seconds; carefully remove the paper. Once the first side is golden, turn the
Hazelnut bits
donut over to cook the other side. Drain on paper towel and let cool.

GLAZING AND DECORATING THE DONUTS

Dip the tops of some donuts in sugar glaze and others in chocolate glaze. Let
set slightly (about 30 seconds), then sprinkle over your choice of toppings.

256
VIENNOISERIE

FRENCH TOAST WITH SUZETTESAUCE

Pain perdu sauce Suzette

Serves2 Ingredients PREP.ARING THE SUZETTE SAUCE

Heat the water and sugar in a saucepan, stirring until the sugar dissolves.
Active time Suzette sauce
Bring to a boil and as soon as the syrup becomes a rich brown caramel,
30 minutes Scant 1/,i cup
(55 g/55 ml) water carefully pour in the orange juice, whisking to stop the cooking (watch out
Cooking tjme
2/3cup (4.5 oz./125 g) for splatters). Add the butter and stir until smooth. Over low heat, whisk
4 minutes per slice superfine sugar
in the cornstarch and Grand Marnier, and continue stirring until the sauce
l cup (250 g/250 ml)
thickens. Let cool at room temperature.
orange Juice
3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
butter, diced, at room PREP.ARING THE CITRUS SEGMENTS
temperature
Set aside l tbsp finely grated orange zest and the lime zest until using. Peel
2 tsp (6 g) cornstarch
all the citrus fruits, taking care to remove all the white pith. Carefully cut
2 tbsp (30 g/30 ml)
out the segments.
Grand Marnier

Citrus segments
PREP.ARING THE FRENCH TO.AST
l orange
Whisk together the eggs, milk, sugar, and orange zest in a mixing bowl. Add
l lime
the bread slices, pushing them down into the mixture so they are well coated
l grapefruit
on both sides. Drain well. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat, then
French toast add the soaked bread and cook until golden on both sides.
2 eggs
l cup (250 g/250 ml) TO SERVE
whole milk
Warm the Suzette sauce, whisking until it liquefies. While the French toast
3½ tbsp (l.5 oz./40 g)
is still warm, place on serving plates and drizzle generously with the sauce.
superfine sugar
Arrange the citrus segments in an attractive pattern next to the French toast
l tbsp finely grated
orange zest (trom and sprinkle both with lime zest. Sprinkle with pistachio flour or dust with
the orange above)
confectioners' sugar, if you wish. Serve immediately. Any leftover sauce can
2 slices white sourdough
be stored in the refrigerator for a few days.
bread (seerecipe p. 140),
¾ in. (2 cm) thick
l tbsp (15 g) butter

To serve
Finely grated lime zest
(from the lime above)
l tbsp pistachio flour
or confectioners' sugar
(optional)

258
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VIENNOISERIE

BREAD PUDD NG

Serves 6 Ingredients Place the milk, cream, rum, cinnamon, and butter in a saucepan. Scrape in
Scant l½ cups the vanilla seeds and add the bean. Bring to a boil, then remove from the
Active time
(350 g/350 ml) whole
heat and let infuse for 15minutes.
30 minutes milk
l cup minus 3 tbsp
Infusing time
(200 g/200 ml) heavy Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Grease the pans with butter
15 minutes cream, min. 35% fat
and place on a baking sheet.
3½ tbsp (50 g/50 ml)
Cooking tjme
rum
1 hour Cut the bread into approximately 1/2-in. (1-cm) cubes.
l tsp (3 g) ground
cinnamon
Storage
3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g) Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a large bowl until thickened.
Up to 24 hours
butter, diced
in the refrigerator
l vanilla bean, split Pour the infused milk mixture into the eggs, remove the vanilla bean, and
Equipment lengthwise
whisk to blend.
6 triangular pans 7 oz. (200 g) stale bread
with 3-in. (8-cm) sides,
4 eggs
½ in. (4 cm) deep Place a layer of bread in each of the pans and scatter the raisins and candied
½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g)
brown sugar orange peel over the top. Cover with a second layer of bread. Pour over the
1/3cup (1.75 oz./50 g) milk and egg mixture to cover and lightly press down using a fork.
ra1s1ns
1 oz. (25 g) candied
Place the pans in a baking dish and pour in enough room-temperature water
bitter orange peel, diced
to come halfway up the sides of the pans (bain-marie). Bake for 1 hour, top-
Butter for the pans
ping up the water in the baking dish as needed.

Carefully remove the pans from the water and place on a rack. Let the
bread pudding cool to room temperature before turning it out of the pans.

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VIENNOISERIE

SUGAR BRIOCHE TARTS

Tarte au sucre

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE BRIOCHE DOUGH

Knead all the dough ingredients, except the butter and sugar, in the bowl
Active time Brioche dough
of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase
1 hour 2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
all-purpose flour (gruau) the speed to high and knead for 6-8 minutes until the dough is supple and
Bulk fermentation time
cup (90 g/90 ml)
l/3 elastic. With the mixer running on low speed, add the butter and sugar and
1 hour water
knead until completely incorporated (6-8 minutes). Make sure the dough
¼ cup (2 oz./60 g)
Chilling time temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover
lightly beaten egg
30 minutes (about 11/,4 eggs) with plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room temperature. Fold the
1 tsp (5 g) salt dough once (see technique p. 48), return it to the bowl, and cover with plastic
Resting time
0.35 oz. (10 g) fresh wrap. Chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.
30 minutes
yeast
Proofing time 4 tbsp (2.5 oz./65 g)
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE BRIOCHE TARTS
butter, diced, at room
l½ hours
temperature Divide the dough into 8 pieces weighing 2 oz. (60 g) each. Shape into balls
Cooking time 2 tbsp (25 g) sugar and let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Roll out each ball into a 4-in.
12-15 minutes (10-cm) disk and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Let
Egg wash
proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or place on a rack in a turned-off
Storage 1 egg
oven above a bowl of boiling water, for about 11/2 hours.
Up to 24 hours l egg yolk
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole
Equipment
milk BAKING THE BRIOCHE TARTS
Stand mixer+ dough
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Press down firmly on the
hook Sugar crust
dough disks with your fingertips to make 4 or 5 imprints on each. To make
Instant-read 1 stick + 1 tsp
thermometer (4 oz./120 g) butter, the sugar crust, whisk the egg wash ingredients together and brush over the
cut into small cubes
dough disks. Place a small cube of butter in each imprint. Sprinkle turbinado
Scant½ cup
sugar all over the disks and bake for 8-10 minutes until golden. Immediately
(2.75 oz./80 g)
turbinado sugar transfer from the baking sheet to a rack and let cool at room temperature.

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266 FOCACCIA
268 ALSATIAN PIZZA
270 HAM AND TOMATO PIZZA
272 PASTRAMIBAGELS
274 SALMON POLARBR0D
276 FALAFEL-FILLEDPITA BREADS
278 TOMATO, MOZZARELLA. AND PESTOPANINI
280 VEGETARIAN BLACK BUN BURGERS
282 CHICKEN BAO BUNS
284 PAN BAGNAT
286 CHEESEAND VEGETABLEWRAPS
288 REVISITEDPARISIANHAM SANDWICH
290 REVISITEDCROQUE-MONSIEUR
292 SURPRISEBREAD
294 HOT DOGS
296 HAM CROISSANTS
SANDWICHES AND SNACKS

FOCACCIA

Makes4 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

Knead the flour and water in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for
Active time Focaccia dough
l½ hours
5 minutes until no dry bits remain. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let
4 cups + 2 tbsp
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (autolyse). Add the levain, yeast, and
Autolyse time bread flour (T65)
salt and knead on high speed for 5 minutes until the dough is well blended
30 minutes Scant l½ cups
and supple (it should wrap around the dough hook). With the mixer running
(330 g/330 ml) water
Bulk fermentation time on low speed, gradually add the scant 1/2 cup (100 g/110 ml) olive oil, as
3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe liquid
2 hours levain (see technique p. 40) needed, depending on the consistency of the dough, which should be soft
0.15 oz. (4 g) fresh yeast and supple (bassinage). Knead until the oil is absorbed, then knead in the
Resting time
2 tsp (10 g) salt rosemary. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 73°F-75°F
20 minutes
Scant½ cup (23°C-24°C). Transfer the dough to a clean bowl lightly greased with olive
Proofing time (100 g/110 ml) olive oil
oil and cover with a dish towel. Let the dough ferment for 30 minutes at
(for bassinage)
1 hour
room temperature and then give it one fold (see technique p. 48). Cover with
2 tbsp (7 g) dried
Cooking time rosemary, finely chopped plastic wrap and let ferment for another 30 minutes, then perform a second
15 minutes and final fold. Let the dough ferment undisturbed for an additional 1 hour
Olive oil for the baking
rings at room temperature.
Storage
Up to 24 hours
Toppings SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Equipment Olive oil
Place the baking rings on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, then
Stand mixer+ dough $undried tomatoes
line the insides of the rings with parchment paper, too. Brush the insides and
hook
2 braised artichokes,
the rims of the rings with olive oil. Divide the dough into 4 pieces weighing
Instant-read sliced
thermometer 9 oz. (250 g) each. Shape them into very loose balls and place inside the
½ red onion, sliced
4 x 6-in. (16-cm) baking rings. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 minutes at room tempera-
Cheese ofJour choice,
rings, l¼ in. (4.5 cm)
finely dice ture. Using your fingertips, gently stretch the dough to fill the circles. Let
deep
Black olives proof for l hour at room temperature in a draft-free place.
1 sprig rosemary
Salt TOPPING AND BAKING THE FOCACCIAS
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat
the oven to 515°F (270°C/Gas Mark 10). Bring 1 cup (250 ml) water to a
simmer. Liberally drizzle the focaccia dough with olive oil to cover. Using
your fingertips, make deep craters all over the surface of each focaccia and
sprinkle with salt. Arrange sun-dried tomatoes and artichoke and onion slices
over the focaccias, then add the cheese, a few olives, and some rosemary
leaves. Place the baking sheet with the rings on the rack in the center of
the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into the rimmed sheet on
the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven door and bake for
15 minutes. Remove from the oven as soon as the parts of dough that have
bubbled up begin to brown.

266
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SANDWICHES AND SNACKS

ALSATIAN PIZZA
Flammekueche

Makes 3 pizzas Ingredients PREPARING THE ALSATIAN PIZZA DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
to serve 6
Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
Alsatian pizza dough
Active time for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead
4 cups+ 2 tbsp
l hour (l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white for 5 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure the dough
bread flour (T65)
temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl, cover with
Bulk fermentation time
ll/3 cups (320 g/320 ml) plastic wrap, and let ferment for l hour at room temperature. Fold the dough
l hour + overnight water
once (see technique p. 48), place it back in the bowl, and cover with plastic wrap.
13/4tsp (9 g) salt
Resting time
Let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
15 minutes
4½ tsp (20 g/22 ml)
Proofing time olive oil SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
30 minutes The next day, divide the dough into 3 equal pieces and gently shape each
Toppings
one into a ball. Let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature. Roll each piece
Cooking tjme 2 large onions
of dough into an approximate 8 x 12-in. (20 x 30-cm) oval and place on baking
10-15 minutes Olive oil
per pizza + 15 minutes sheets lined with parchment paper. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F
Scant l cup (7 oz./200 g)
for frying onions
creme fraiche (24°C), or on racks in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for
Storage 2/3cup (5.25 oz./150 g) 30 minutes.
fromage blanc (or
Up to 24 hours
substitute strained greek
yogurt, quark, or ricotta) PREPARING THE TOPPINGS
Equipment
l pinch freshly grated Slice the onions very thinly and cook them in a skillet with a little olive oil
Stand mixer+ dough
nutmeg
hook over low heat until softened and translucent. Meanwhile, stir together the
5.25 oz. (150 g) smoked
Instant-read creme fraiche and fromage blanc in a bowl until well combined. Season with
bacon, thinly sliced
thermometer
crosswise (lardons) nutmeg, salt, and pepper.
Salt and freshly ground
pepper
BAKING THE ALSATIAN PIZZA
Preheat the oven to 515°F (270°C/Gas Mark 10). Spread the cream mixture
evenly over the ovals of dough and scatter with the onions and bacon. Bake
each pizza for 10-15 minutes, until the cream mixture just begins to brown
and the crust is lightly golden. Serve immediately.

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HAM AND TOMATO PIZZA

Pizza jambon tomate

Makes 3 ,c 10-12-in. Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

(25-30-cm) piz:zas
Knead all the pizza dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low
Pizza dough
Active time speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium
4 cups + 2 tbsp
1 hour (1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white and knead for 5 minutes until the dough is supple. Make sure the dough
bread flour (T 65)
temperature does not exceed 75°F {24°C). Cover the bowl with plastic
Bulk fermentation time
11/3 cups (320 g/320 ml)
wrap and let ferment for 1 hour at room temperature. Fold the dough once
1 hour + overnight water
in the refrigerator (see technique p. 48) and shape it into a ball. Place in a clean bowl, cover with
13/4tsp (9 g) salt
plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
Resting time 0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
15 minutes 4½ tsp (20 g/22 ml)
olive oil SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Proofing time
The next day, divide the dough into 3 pieces weighing 10 oz. (280 g) each.
Toppings
30 minutes
Shape into balls, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest for 15 minutes at
2½cups
Cooking tjme (1 lb. 5 oz./600 g) room temperature. Roll out or stretch each piece of dough into a 10-12-in.
tomato sauce
8-10 minutes per pizza (25-30-cm) disk and place on baking sheets lined with parchment paper.
3 balls mozzarella
Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off
Storage
Button mushrooms
oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 30 minutes.
Up to 24 hours
Cherry tomatoes
Equipment 12 slices prosciutto
TOPPING THE PIZZAS
or another cured ham
Stand mixer+ dough
Divide the tomato sauce between the pizzas and spread into a thin, even
hook Arugula and basil leaves
layer. Cut the mozzarella and mushrooms into thin slices and scatter evenly
Instant-read
thermometer over the sauce. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half and arrange over the mush-
Heavy-duty baking sheet rooms and mozzarella.
or baking stone

BAKING THE PIZZAS

Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
the oven and preheat the oven to 515°F (270°C/Gas Mark 10). Slide one of
the pizzas, still on the parchment paper, onto the hot baking sheet or baking
stone in the oven and bake for 8-10 minutes. Repeat with the remaining
pizzas, baking them one at a time. As soon as they come out of the oven,
scatter over the ham slices and arugula and basil leaves. Serve immediately.

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PASTRAMI BAGELS
Bagel au pastrami

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

Knead all the bagel dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on
Active time Bagel dough
low speed for 3 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high
l½ hours 4 cups+ 2 tbsp
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) and knead for 8 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure
Bulk fermentation time all-purpose flour (T55)
the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl,
15 minutes 1 cup minus 3 tbsp
cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 15 minutes at room temperature.
(200 g/200 ml) whole
Resting time milk Divide the dough into 8 pieces weighing 4.25 oz. (120 g) each and gently
15 minutes Scant½ cup shape each one into a ball. Let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature.
(100 g/100 ml) water
Proofing time
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
45 minutes
3 tbsp (1.5 oz./40 g)
Shape each piece of dough into a log measuring 6 in. (15 cm) in length. Join
butter, diced, at room
Cooking time
temperature the ends of each log together to make 8 rings and place on a baking sheet
15-20 minutes
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast lined with parchment paper. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C}, or
+ poaching the bagels
2 tsp (10 g) honey on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 45 minutes.
Storage of your choice
Filled bagels: 3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe stiff
COOKING THE BAGELS
up to 24 hours levain (see technique p. 38)
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7) and bring a large saucepan
Unfilled bagels: several
Egg wash
days well covered of water to a boil. Poach the bagels in the boiling water for about 30 seconds
in plastic wrap 1 egg white
on each side. Drain with a slotted spoon and return to the parchment-lined
Equipment Toppings baking sheet. Lightly whisk the egg white and brush over the bagels. Sprinkle
Stand mixer+ dough Sesame or poppy seeds with sesame or poppy seeds and bake for 15-20 minutes. Let cool completely
hook
on a rack before slicing and filling.
Fillings
Instant-read
thermometer 1 cucumber
FILLING THE BAGELS
Lettuce leaves
of your choice Wash the cucumber and lettuce and slice them thinly. Peel and thinly slice
2 large red onions the red onions and cut the cornichons in half lengthwise. Mash the cream
Cornichons cheese with a fork to make it easier to spread, then mix in the mustard until
1 cup (9 oz./250 g) well blended. Cut the bagels in half horizontally and generously spread the
cream cheese
cut sides with the mustard cream cheese. Scatter the red onion and lettuce
2 tsp (10 g) Dijon
over the bottom halves and top with the pastrami, cucumber, and cornichons.
mustard
Place the tops on the bagels and serve immediately.
16 slices pastrami

CHEFS'NOTES

To make black bagels, add l oz. (25 g) activated charcoal powder

(charbon vegetal) to the bagel dough.

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SALMON POLARBR0D
Pain polaire au saumon

Makes 16 small Ingredients

PREPARING THE DOUGH
sandwiches
(12 polarbred) Dough Knead all the ingredients, except the oil for cooking, in the bowl of the stand
2¾cups mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to
Active time
(12.5 oz../350 g) white
high and knead for 4 minutes until the dough is smooth. Shape into a ball,
l½ hours bread flour (T65)
cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 1 hour at room temperature.
Scant 1½ cups
Bulk fermentation time
(5.25 oz../150 g) rye flour
1 hour
1 cup (250 g/250 ml) SHAPING THE DOUGH
water at 39°F (4°C)
Resting time Divide the dough into 12 pieces weighing 2.75-3.25 oz. (80-90 g) each and
2.5 oz..(75 g) ripe liquid
30 minutes shape into balls. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for at least 30 minutes
levain (see technique p. 40)
in the refrigerator
in the refrigerator. Roll each piece into a 6-7-in. (15-18-cm) disk. Pierce each
l/3 cup (75 g/75 ml)
Cooking tjme heavy cream, min. 35% disk all over with the dough docker or a fork.
fat
2 minutes per polarbr0d
2½tbsp
COOKING THE POLARBRClJD
Storage (2 oz./50 g) glucose
syrup Grease the skillet with a little oil using a paper towel. Warm the skillet over
Filled polarbr0d:
up to 24 hours 0.35 oz..(10 g) fresh medium heat and cook each polarbr0d for about l minute on each side until
yeast
Unfilled polarbr0d: just starting to brown. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper
several days in the 11/4 tsp (5 g) baking
to cool. Store the polarbr0d in an airtight container or covered in plastic
refrigerator in an airtight powder
container, or well wrap to keep them soft.
Scant½ tsp (1 g) ground
covered in plastic wrap
fennel (optional)
Equipment Scant 2½ tsp (12 g) salt FILLING THE POLARBRClJD
Stand mixer+ dough Oil for cooking Cut the lemon in half crosswise; juice one of the halves and cut the other
hook
half into quarters. Peel strips from the cucumber if you wish, then thinly
Fillings
Dough docker or fork
slice it crosswise. Roughly chop the dill. Stir together the cream cheese,
l lemon
Skillet
lemon juice, dill, and pink peppercorns in a bowl until well blended. Gently
l cucumber
reheat the polarbr0d in the oven or a toaster. Generously spread the tops
½ bunch dill
of 4 polarbr0d with the cream cheese mixture, then add cucumber slices
l cup (9 oz../250 g)
cream cheese and 1slice of salmon to each one. Cover with a second polarbr0d and press
A few pink peppercorns down gently with your hand. Spread with another layer of the cream cheese
8 slices smoked salmon mixture and top with cucumber slices and a second slice of salmon. Cover
A few leaves purslane with the remaining polarbr0d, press down gently, and cut into quarters
using a serrated knife.

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FALAFEL-FILLEDPITA BREADS
Pita aux falafels

Makes 10 Ingredients PREPARIMG THE DOUGH

Knead all the pita bread dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on
Active time Pita bread dough
low speed for 3 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium
l½ hours 4 cups + 2 tbsp
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white and knead for 5 minutes until the dough is supple. Make sure the dough
Bulk fermentation time bread flour (T65)
temperature does not exceed 73°F-75°F {23°C-24°C). Cover the bowl
1 hour l¼ cups (300 g/300 ml) with plastic wrap and let ferment for 1 hour at room temperature. Divide
water
Resting time the dough into 10 pieces weighing 3.5 oz. (100 g) each. Shape the pieces
7 oz. (200 g) ripe liquid
30 minutes levain (see technique p. 40) into balls, dust with semolina flour, and cover with a clean dish towel. Let
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Cooking time
2 minutes per batch To shape
SHAPIMG THE DOUGH
Fine semolina Aour
Storage
Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in the center of
Unfilled pita breads: Fillings
the oven and preheat the oven to 515°F (270°C/Gas Mark 10). Generously
up to 2 days in the
5 tomatoes
refrigerator covered flour a work surface and rolling pin with semolina flour to prevent the dough
in plastic wrap, or freeze 1 cucumber
from sticking and tearing. Roll each piece of dough into very thin 8-in. (20-cm)
2 large red onions
Equipment disks and place on parchment paper.
30 f alafels (homemade
Stand mixer+ dough
or store-bought)
hook
BAKIMG THE PITA BREADS
1 lb. (500 g) hummus
Instant-read
(homemade or store- Slide the parchment paper with the pitas on it onto the hot baking sheet or
thermometer
bought)
baking stone in the oven and bake for about 2 minutes, baking in batches if
Heavy-duty baking sheet
1 bunch cilantro
or baking stone necessary. A few small bubbles will form in the dough. which will grow and
join together to make the pita puff up like a balloon. Remove the pitas from
the oven as soon as they are completely puffed but still pale. Take care not
to overbake them, as they will no longer be pliable. Alternatively, you can
cook the pitas in a very hot ungreased skillet. To do this, cook one pita at a
time for 30 seconds on one side, then turn it over and cook for 1-2 minutes
until it has puffed (the pitas will not puff as reliably as if you bake them in
the oven). Turn the pita over and cook for about l minute until pale golden
on the other side. Stack the pitas on top of one another and cover with a
damp dish towel to keep them soft and moist.

FILLIMG THE PITA BREADS

Slice the tomatoes and cucumber crosswise and thinly slice the red onions.
Warm the falafels in a skillet over low heat. Warm the pita breads under the
broiler for a few minutes then cut them open along one side. Open the pitas
and spread the insides generously with hummus, then fill with the cucumber,
tomatoes, onion, falafels, and a few cilantro leaves. Serve immediately.

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TOMATO, MOZZARELLA, AND PESTO PANINI

Panini tomate, mozzarella et pesto

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)

Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
Active time Panini roll dough
for 5 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead
l½ hours 4 cups+ 2 tbsp
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white for 5 minutes until the dough is supple. Make sure the dough temperature
Bulk fermentation time bread flour (T 65)
does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let
1 hour + overnight l1/3 cups (320 g/320 ml)
ferment for 1 hour at room temperature. Fold the dough (see technique p. 48),
water
Resting time place in a clean bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let ferment overnight
13/.itsp (9 g) salt
15 minutes in the refrigerator.
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
Proofing time 4½ tsp (20 g/22 ml)
olive oil SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
1 hour
The next day, divide the dough into 8 pieces weighing 3.75 oz. (105 g) each
Fillings
Cooking time
and shape into balls. Let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature. Shape
8 cocktail tomatoes
About 20 minutes
each piece of dough into a mini baguette measuring 7 in. (18 cm) in length
4 mozzarella balls
Storage (4.5 oz./125 g each) (see technique p. 51) and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Ungrilled filled pan in i: ½ cup (3.5 oz./100 g) Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off
up to 24 hours basil or arugula pesto
oven above a bowl of boiling water, for l hour.
Unfilled panini: Arugula
up to 2 days well
covered in plastic wrap BAKING THE PANINI ROLLS
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Equipment
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
Stand mixer+ dough
hook oven to 450°F (240°C/Gas Mark 8). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
Instant-read Place the rolls in the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into the
thermometer
rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven
Grill pan (optional)
door and bake for 6-8 minutes until just cooked through but not browned.
The rolls should remain white, so keep a close eye on them. Immediately
transfer the rolls to a rack and let them cool completely at room temperature.

FILLING THE PAMINI ROLLS

Wash and slice the tomatoes crosswise, then evenly slice the mozzarella.
Cut the panini rolls in half horizontally and spread the cut sides of each
with about l tbsp pesto. Top the bottom halves with tomato and mozzarella
slices. Place the tops on the panini rolls and cook on a grill pan for about
10 minutes (5 minutes on each side), until the mozzarella melts and the rolls
are golden. Alternatively, place the panini under the broiler in the oven set
to 480°F (250°C/Gas Mark 9). Serve immediately.

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VEGETAR AN BLACK BUN BURGERS

Black burger vegetarien

Makes8 l oz. (25 g) activated PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTtE (1 DAY AHEAD)
charcoal powder
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
Active time (charbon vegeta[)
l½ hours
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes until smooth. Place in
1 cup (250 g/250 ml)
water a bowl, cover in plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
Pate fermentee
2 tsp (10 g) salt
fermentation time
5 tsp (25 g) milk powder PREPARING THE DOUGH
Overnight
l oz. (25 g) fresh yeast Knead all the black bun dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer
Bulk fermentation time
2 tbsp (25 g) superfine on low speed for 3 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to high
45 minutes sugar and knead for 7 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure the
4 oz. (115g) pate
Resting time dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Cover with plastic wrap
fermentee (seeleft)
15 minutes and let ferment for 45 minutes at room temperature. Divide the dough into
3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g)
butter, diced, at room 8 pieces weighing about 4.5 oz. (125 g) each, and gently shape each one
Proofing time
temperature
into a ball. Let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature.
l¼-l½ hours
Egg wash
Cooking time
1 egg SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
20-25 minutes+ frying
1 egg yolk Place the cake rings on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Shape
the burgers
2 tsp (10 g/10 ml) whole the pieces of dough into tight balls and place in the rings. Let proof in a
Storage milk steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a
Unfilled buns: up to 1/2
Topping bowl of boiling water, for l¼-1 hours.
several days well covered
in plastic wrap Sesame seeds
BAKING THE BUCK BUNS
Equipment Fillings
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Stand mixer + dough hook 1 cucumber
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
Instant-read thermometer Lettuce leaves
8 x 4-in. (10-cm) cake
of your choice oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
rings, l¼ in. (3 cm) deep 4 scallions Whisk the egg wash ingredients together and brush over the buns. Sprinkle
2 large red onions them with sesame seeds and place in the oven. Carefully pour the simmering
Ingredients
2 cups (1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close
Pate fermentee greek-style yogurt
the oven door and bake the buns for 20-25 minutes. Immediately remove
½ cup (2.5 oz./70 g) 2 tbsp (27 g/30 ml)
white bread Aour (T65)
the buns from the rings and let them cool completely on a rack.
sesame oil
3 tbsp (43 g/43 ml) water Vegetable oil
FILLING THE BURGER BUNS
Scant¼ tsp (l g) salt 8 vegetarian patties
of your choice Wash the cucumber, lettuce, and scallions. Slice the cucumber. Thinly slice
0.05 oz. (l g) fresh yeast
9 oz. (250 g) cherry the red onions and scallions. Whisk together the scallions, yogurt, and ses-
Blackbun dough tomatoes, slow-roasted
ame oil in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Preheat the broiler. Cut
4 cups + 2 tbsp Salt and freshly ground
the buns in half horizontally and place under the broiler briefly to toast.
(l lb. 2 oz./500 9) white pepper
bread Aour (T65) Warm a little vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the vegetarian
patties and cook on both sides until browned. Spread the insides of the
buns with yogurt sauce and arrange lettuce, cherry tomatoes, red onion,
and cucumber over the bottom halves. Add the vegetarian patties, spread
over a little sauce, and finish with another piece of lettuce. Place the tops
CHEFS'NOTES
on the burgers and serve immediately.

To make classic hamburger buns.

simply omit the charcoal powder.

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CHICKEN BAO BUNS

Gua bao au poulet

Makes 10 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

Warm the milk to 91°F (33°C). Knead the all-purpose and pastry flours,
Active time Bao buns
yeast, baking powder, sugar, and oil in the bowl of the stand mixer on low
1 hour Scant l cup
(225 g/225 ml) low-fat speed until well combined. Pour in the milk and knead on high speed until
Bulk fermentation time milk
incorporated. Shape the dough into a ball, place in a clean bowl, and cover
30 minutes l½ cups (6.5 oz./185 9) the bowl loosely with plastic wrap. Let ferment for 30 minutes at room
all-purpose flour (T55)
Proofing time temperature, or until doubled in volume.
l½ cups (6.5 oz./185 g)
10 minutes pastry flour (T45)
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast SHAPING A.ND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Marinating time
l tsp (4 g) baking Roll the dough to a thickness of about 1/4 in. (5 mm). Cut out 10 disks using
30 minutes
powder
the 3-in. (8-cm) cookie cutter, brush them with grape-seed oil, and fold them
Cooking time 3 tbsp (l¼ oz./35 g)
in two to make half-circles. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment
sugar
13 minutes
1/3 paper and let proof in a steam oven set to 95°F (35°C), or on a rack in a
cup (75 g/80 ml)
Storage grape-seed oil turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for about 10 minutes.
Unfilled buns: up to
Fillings
several days wrapped
COOKING THE B.4.0BUNS
in a clean dish towel 5 tbsp soy sauce
Pour about 11/2 in. (4 cm) water into a large skillet or pot and bring to a boil.
2½ tsp (12 g) honey
Equipment
Place the buns in the steamer and carefully lower it into the skillet. Cook
2-3 cloves garlic
Instant-read
covered for 3 minutes over low-medium heat. Open to release steam, then
thermometer 2-3 chicken breasts
replace the lid and cook for an additional 2 minutes. Open again, replace the
Stand mixer+ dough l cucumber
hook lid, and cook for an additional 8 minutes until puffed and cooked through.
l lb. (500 g) shredded
3-in. (8-cm) round cookie white cabbage and
cutter julienned carrot salad
FILLING THE B.4.0 BUNS
Bamboo steamer 5 leaves lettuce
Combine the soy sauce, honey, and garlic in a bowl and whisk to blend.
Several sprigs cilantro
Marinate the chicken in this mixture for about 30 minutes. Drain the chicken
well and cook it in a skillet over low heat on both sides until cooked through
and browned. Warm the bao buns briefly under the broiler. Cut the chicken
into bite-sized pieces and drizzle with the pan juices, then peel the cucum-
ber and cut it into half-moon slices. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas
Mark 4). Fill the buns with chicken, cabbage and carrot salad, cucumber,
lettuce, and cilantro leaves. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment
paper and warm in the oven for 5 minutes. Serve warm.

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PAN BAGNAT

Makes8 Ingredients

Active time Milk levain

l½ hours 2 tbsp (30 g/30 ml)
whole milk at ll3°F
Milk levain (45°C)
fermentation time
¾cup+ 2 tbsp
3 hours (3.5 oz./100 g} white
bread flour (T 65)
Bulk fermentation time
5.25 oz. (150 g) ripe
l½ hours liquid levain (see technique
p.40)
Resting time
Pan bagnat rolls
30 minutes + 2 hours
before serving 10 oz. (280 g) milk levain
(see above)
Proofing time
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
1 hour white bread flour (T65)
2¼ cups (9 oz./250 g)
Cooking time
white whole wheat flour
16 minutes (T80)
l½ cups (375 g/375 ml)
Storage
water
Unfilled rolls: up to
Scant 2½ tsp (12 g) salt
several days wrapped
in a clean dish towel ¼ cup (50 g/56 ml) olive
oil (for bassinage)
Equipment
Fillings
Stand mixer+ dough
hook 8 small tomatoes
Oven thermometer 8 hard-boiled eggs
Instant-read 2 large red onions
thermometer
2 green chili peppers
Baker's couche (optional)
2 cloves garlic
Heavy-duty baking sheet
½ cup (100 g/112 ml)
or baking stone
extra virgin olive oil
Bread lame
8 leaves lettuce
40 pitted black olives
14 oz. (400 g) canned
tuna fillets packed
in water, drained
24 anchovy fillets
packed in olive oil,
drained
•
Basil leaves
PREPARING THE MILK LEVAIN (1 DAY AHEAD)
Knead all the milk levain ingredients in the bowl of the stand
mixer on low speed for 5 minutes until well combined. Shape
into a very tight ball and cut a cross on the top. Place in a
clean bowl and cover with a clean dish towel. Let ferment for
3 hours at 95°F (35°C), or in an oven preheated to 86°F-104°F
(30°C-40°C; use an oven thermometer to check the tempera-
ture) and then turned off, until cracks form on the surface.
PREPARING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
Knead all the pan bagnat dough ingredients, except the olive
oil, in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed for 5 minutes
until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead
for 6 minutes until the dough is supple, smooth, and elastic.
Drizzle in the olive oil in 3 equal quantities, kneading the dough
after each addition until it is supple and smooth (bassinage).
Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F-77°F
(24°C-25°C). Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover with plas-
tic wrap, and let ferment for 11/2 hours at room temperature.
Divide the dough into 8 pieces weighing 5.25 oz. (150 g) each
and shape into loose balls. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest
for 30 minutes at room temperature.
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH (1 DAY AHEAD)
Flatten each piece of dough into a thick 6-in. (16-cm) disk and
place on a floured baker's couche or clean, heavy dish towel
with the seam facing up. Pleat the couche or towel around the
dough pieces like an accordion and let proof for l hour at room
temperature in a draft-free place.
SCORING AND BAKING THE ROLLS ClDAY AHEAD)
Place a heavy-duty baking sheet or baking stone on a rack in
the center of the oven and a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet
on the bottom rack. Preheat the oven to 480°F (250°C/Gas
Mark 10) and bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer. Invert the
pieces of dough onto a piece of parchment paper and score a
large cross-shaped cut into the top of each one using the bread
lame. Slide the parchment paper onto the hot baking sheet or
baking stone in the center and carefully pour the simmering
water into the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam.
Quickly close the oven door and bake for about 16 minutes until
pale golden. Take care not to overbake the rolls, as they will be
dry. Immediately transfer the rolls to a rack and let them cool
completely at room temperature, before storing.
ASSEMBLING THE PAN BAGNAT
The next day, cut the rolls in half horizontally. Slice the toma-
toes and eggs crosswise and thinly slice the onions and chili
peppers. Crush the garlic into a bowl, add the olive oil, and stir
to blend. Season with salt and pepper and divide between the
roll bases. Arrange the lettuce leaves, tomatoes, eggs, onions,
chili peppers, olives, tuna, and anchovies over the bases and
garnish with a few basil leaves. Place the tops on the rolls and
let rest for 2 hours before serving.
CHEFS'NOTES
• Milk levain provides the same strength
as a classic stiff levain and has a similar fermentation
process. but the aroma and flavor are much milder,
with minimal acidity. IFyou prefer more distinctive
sourdough notes, use 10 oz. (280 g) ripe stiff levain
in the dough instead (see technique p. 38).
• Letting the bread dry out for a day
before filling it prevents it from turning
soggy when filled.
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CHEESE AND VEGETABLE WRAPS

Wrap au f romage et legumes

Makes20 Ingredients
PREPARING THE DOUGH
Active time Dough Knead all the ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed until
l hour 4 cups + 2 tbsp well combined and smooth. Shape the dough into 20 balls weighing 1.5 oz.
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) white
bread flour (T65),
(45 g) each. Coat with flour, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest for at least
Resting time
plus extra for coating 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
30 minutes in the
refrigerator l/3 cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
semolina flour (medium
SHAPING THE DOUGH
Cooking time grind)
40 seconds-l minute ll/3 cups (320 g/320 ml)
Using plenty of bread flour and semolina flour to prevent sticking, roll each
per flatbread cold water piece of dough into a very thin disk, 8-10 in. (20-25 cm) in diameter.
1/3cup (75 g/80 ml)
Storage
grape-seed oil, plus
COOKING THE FUTBREADS
Filled wraps: extra for greasing
up to 24 hours Using a paper towel, grease the skillet with a thin layer of oil. Warm the skillet
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
Unfilled flatbreads: over high heat until it is very hot. Cook each flatbread for about 20 seconds
several days in an For rolling
on each side, turning them over and removing them from the skillet at the
airtight container or well
Bread Aour and semolina
covered in plastic wrap first sign of browning. As soon as the flatbreads have cooked, stack them on
flour, as needed
top of one another and cover with a damp dish towel to keep them moist.
Equipment
Fillings
Stand mixer+ dough
8 carrots
hook FILLING THE FLATBREADS
4 tbsp sesame oil
Skillet Peel and grate the carrots on the large holes of a box grater. Place in a
4 tsp cider vinegar
bowl with the sesame oil, vinegar, and half the sprouts. Season with salt and
l container sprouts
pepper and stir to blend. Cut the pickles lengthwise into thin slices. Reheat
of your choice, divided
the flatbreads for a few minutes in a warm oven. Top each one with 1slice of
10 dill or Russian-style
malossol pickles cheese, pickle slices, and the grated carrot mixture. Roll up the flatbreads
20 slices cheese (such and cut them in two. Wrap a strip of parchment paper around each half at
as Comte)
the base and tie with string to hold in place. Sprinkle the remaining sprouts
Salt and freshly ground
over the tops and serve.
pepper

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REV SITED PARISIAN HAM SANDWICH

Parisien revisite

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE YEASTED PUFF PASTRY DOUGH

Knead all the base dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on
Active time Yeasted puff pastry rolls
low speed until well combined. Increase the speed to high and knead for
2 hours Base dough
5 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. The dough temperature
4 cups+ 2 tbsp
Bulk fermentation time
(l lb. 2 oz./500 g) strong should be about 75°F (24°C). Roll the dough into a 6 x 12-in. (15 x 30-cm)
30 minutes white bread flour (T65)
rectangle, cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 30 minutes in the
l cup+ 5 tsp
Resting time refrigerator. Roll the 84% butter into a 6-in. (15-cm) square (see technique
(270 g/270 ml) water
l-l½ hours p. 62). Place the butter in the center of the dough and fold the dough over
0.25 oz. (5 g) fresh yeast
it to enclose the butter completely. Roll the dough into an approximate
Proofing time 3.5 oz. (100 g) ripe stiff
levain (see technique p.38) 8 x 20-in. (20 x 50-cm) rectangle, then fold the shorter ends of the dough
l½ hours
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt inward, one-third of the way down from the top and two-thirds of the way
Cooking time
Laminating butter up from the bottom. Fold the dough in half, like a book, to make a double
22-24 minutes
l¾ sticks (7 oz./200 g) turn (see technique p. 65). Let rest for 15-30 minutes in the refrigerator. Give
butter, preferably
Storage the dough a quarter turn clockwise, so that the flap is on one side, and roll it
84% fat
Filled sandwiches: into an approximate 8 x 20-in. (20 x 50-cm) rectangle. Fold the bottom third
up to 24 hours Mustard butter
of the dough upward, then fold the top third down over the top to make
Unfilled rolls: up to l¾ sticks (7 oz./200 g)
a single turn (see technique p. 64). Let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
several days wrapped butter, softened
in a clean dish towel
¼ cup (1.75 oz./50 g)
whole grain mustard SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Equipment
Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces. Shape into balls, cover with plastic
Stand mixer+ dough Fillings
hook wrap, and let rest for 15-30 minutes in the refrigerator. Shape into small
8 slices ham (jambon
Instant-read blanc) baguettes measuring 8 in. (20 cm) in length (see technique p. 51), and place on a
thermometer
Several cornichons, baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Using the bread lame, score each
Bread lame thinly sliced (optional)
loaf lengthwise down the center. Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C),
Serrated knife
or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water, for 11/2 hours.

BAKING THE ROLLS

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C/Gas Mark 6). Bake for 22-24 minutes.
Let cool completely on a rack.

PREPARING THE MUSTARD BUTTER

Place the butter and mustard in a bowl and mix until well blended.

PREPARING THE SANDWICHES

Using the serrated knife, cut the rolls in half horizontally and spread the
cut sides with the mustard butter. Place a slice of ham on each bottom
half, along with a few cornichon slices, if you wish. Place the tops on the
sandwiches and serve.

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REV SITED CROQUE-MONSIEUR

Croque-monsieur revisite

Makes6 Ingredients PREPARING THE MUSTARD BUTTER

Place the butter and mustard in a bowl and stir until well blended.
Active time Mustard butter
30 minutes l½ sticks (6 oz./180 g)
butter, softened PREPARING THE EMMENTALER SPREAD
Cooking tjme
4 tsp (20 g) whole grain Place the cheese and cream in a bowl and stir until well blended.
15-20 minutes mustard

Storage Emmentaler spread ASSEMBLING AND BAKING THE CROQUE-MONSIEURS

Up to 24 hours 3½ cups (14 oz./400 g) Preheat the oven to 450°F (240°C/Gas Mark 8). Using a palette knife,
grated Emmentaler
spread an even layer of mustard butter over one side of each bread slice.
cheese
Place butter side up on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and
Scant l cup
(200 g/200 ml) heavy toast in the oven for 5 minutes. Remove and reduce the oven temperature
cream, min. 35% fat
to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Place a slice of ham on each slice of bread
Croque-monsieurs and top with Emmentaler spread. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 350°F (180°C/
6 slices white sourdough Gas Mark 4) until golden brown.
bread (see recipe p.140)
6 slices ham (jambon
blanc)

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SURPRISEBREAD
Pain surprise

Makes 1 to serve 8-10 Ingredients PREPARING THE PATE FERMENTfE (1 DAY .AHE.AD)
Mix the flour, water, salt, and yeast together in the bowl of the stand mixer
Active time Pate fermentee
and knead on low speed, or by hand, for 10 minutes until smooth. Place in
3 hours ½ cup (2 oz./60 g) white
bread flour (T65) a bowl, cover in plastic wrap, and let ferment overnight in the refrigerator.
Pate fermentee
2 tbsp + 11/,tsp
fermentation time
(37 g/37 ml) water PREPARING, SH.APING, .AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
Overnight
Scant¼ tsp (l g) salt
Knead all the dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on low speed
Bulk fermentation time 0.05 oz. (1 g) fresh yeast
for 4 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium and knead
30 minutes
Bread dough for 6 minutes. Make sure the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F
Resting time 21/3cups (9 oz./250 g) (24°C). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let ferment for 30 minutes
rye flour
15 minutes at room temperature. Shape the dough into a ball and let rest for 15 min-
2 cups (9 oz./250 g)
utes at room temperature. Place the cake ring on a baking sheet lined with
Proofing time white bread flour (T65)
45 minutes-l hour
parchment paper, and line the inside of the ring with parchment paper, too.
2 tbsp (25 g) butter,
diced, at room Shape the dough into a tight ball (see technique p. 50) and place it in the ring.
Cooking tjme temperature
Dust the top of the dough evenly with flour and, using the bread lame, score
40-50 minutes 2 tsp (10 g) salt
it with a crosshatch cut (see technique p. 58). Let proof in a steam oven set to
0.5 oz. (15g) fresh yeast
Freezing time 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven above a bowl of boiling water,
1½ cups (340 g/340 ml)
30 minutes for 45 minutes-1 hour.
water
Storage 3.5 oz. (100 g) pate
fermentee (see above) B.AKINGTHE BRE.AD
Up to 24 hours
Place a rack in the center of the oven and another rack directly below it.
Fillings
Equipment
Place a heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet on the bottom rack and preheat the
Different fillings of your
Stand mixer+ dough
choice, such as dried oven to 450°F (240°C/Gas Mark 8). Bring l cup (250 ml) water to a simmer.
hook
sausage, chorizo, ham,
Place the dough in the oven and carefully pour the simmering water into
Instant-read tapenade, cream cheese,
thermometer etc. the rimmed sheet on the lower rack to create steam. Quickly close the oven
6-in. (15-cm) cake ring, door. Bake for 35-40 minutes, then carefully remove the ring and continue
8-10 in. (20-25 cm)
to bake for an additional 5-10 minutes until the sides are golden brown. Let
deep
the bread cool completely on a rack (see Chefs' Notes).
Bread lame
Serrated knife
HOLLOWING OUT THE SURPRISE BREAD
Using the serrated knife, cut off the top of the loaf just beneath the scored
part. To cut out the center of the bread, insert the knife vertically into the
crumb, about 1/2 in. (1cm) from the crust and until it reaches about 1/2 in. (1cm)
from the bottom of the loaf. Cut around the inside of the crust, leaving a
1/2-in. (1-cm) border all the way around. To release the crumb from the base,
insert the knife into the side of the loaf with the blade parallel to the work
surface, 1/2 in. (1cm) from the bottom. Take care not to pierce the crust on the
opposite side. Cut the crumb through this opening by carefully moving the
blade forward, without moving the base of the knife (like a pivot). Remove
CHEFS'NOTES
the bread core and place it in the freezer for about 30 minutes to make it

Plan to bake the surprise bread

easier to slice. Cut the core crosswise into thin disks, about ¼ in. (5 mm)
thick. Top half the disks with fillings of your choice and place one of the
one day ahead to make it easier
remaining disks on top of each one to make a sandwich. Cut each sandwich
to cut the nexl day.
into 8-10 equal triangles and arrange in the hollowed-out base to refill it.
Cover with the scored loaf top.

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HOT DOGS

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE DOUGH

Knead all the pretzel dough ingredients in the bowl of the stand mixer on
Active time Pretzel bun dough
low speed for 3 minutes until well combined. Increase the speed to medium
l½ hours 4 cups+ 2 tbsp
(1 lb. 2 oz./500 g) white and knead for 10 minutes until the dough is supple and elastic. Make sure
Bulk fermentation time bread flour (T65)
the dough temperature does not exceed 75°F (24°C). Place in a clean bowl,
15 minutes l cup (250 g/250 ml)
cover with plastic wrap, and let ferment for 15 minutes at room temperature.
whole milk
Resting time Divide the dough into 8 pieces weighing 3.75 oz. (105 g) each and shape
l¾ tsp (9 g) salt
15 minutes each one into a ball. Let rest for 15 minutes at room temperature.
5 tbsp (3 oz. /80 g)
butter, diced, at room
Proofing time
temperature
SHAPING AND PROOFING THE DOUGH
l-1 1/.o1hours
0.75 oz. (20 g) fresh
Shape each piece of dough into a mini-baguette shape (see technique p. 51),
yeast
Cooking time
6 in. (15 cm) long, and place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
2½ tsp (10 g) superfine
15-20 minutes+
sugar Let proof in a steam oven set to 75°F (24°C), or on a rack in a turned-off oven
poaching the pretzels
and sausages 5.25 oz. (150 g) ripe above a bowl of boiling water, for 15-30 minutes, followed by 45 minutes
liquid levain (see technique
in the refrigerator.
Storage p.40)
Unfilled pretzel buns: 4½ tsp (20 g/22 ml)
up to 24 hours sunflower oil COOKING THE BUNS
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7). Prepare the poaching liquid
Equipment Poaching liquid
by combining the water and baking soda in a large saucepan. Bring to a
Stand mixer+ dough 4 cups (l kg/1 liter) water
hook boil and maintain at a simmer over low heat. Poach the pretzel buns in the
¼ cup (l.75 oz./55 g)
Instant-read baking soda simmering water for about 30 seconds on each side. Remove with a slotted
thermometer
spoon and return them to the parchment-lined baking sheet. Lightly whisk
Egg wash
Bread lame
the egg white and brush over the buns. Using the bread lame, score the tops
l egg white
with diagonal slashes (see technique p. 57) or lengthwise down the center. Bake
Filling
for 15-20 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack before filling.
8 Frankfurter sausages
8 tsp mustard
PREPARING THE HOT DOGS
8 tsp ketchup
Poach the sausages for 10 minutes in a saucepan of simmering water. Preheat
8 tbsp fried onions
the broiler. Using the bread lame, cut the buns lengthwise down the center,
without cutting all the way through, and spread the cut sides with mustard.
Place the sausages in the buns and set on a baking sheet. Place under the
broiler for a few minutes. Drizzle with ketchup, sprinkle with fried onions,
and serve immediately.

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HAM CROISSANTS
Croissant au jambon

Makes8 Ingredients PREPARING THE GARLIC-HERB CROISSANTS

Using the ingredients listed, prepare the yeasted pastry dough (see technique
Active time Garlic-herb croissants
p. 74), incorporating the garlic powder and herbes de Provence in the second
2 hours Base dough
kneading stage (step 2 p. 74). Make 8 croissants with the dough and bake them
l cup (4.25 oz./125 g)
Cooking tjme
all-purpose flour (gruau) (see technique p. 77). Let them cool completely before proceeding.
15 minutes+ baking
1 cup (4.25 oz./125 g)
the croissants
strong white bread flour
ASSEMBLING AND BAKING THE HAM CROISSANTS
(T65)
Storage
Prepare the bechamel using the ingredients listed (see technique p.122) and let
Generous ½ cup
Unfilled croissants:
(135 g/135 ml) water cool. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Using the serrated
up to 24 hours
at 39°F (4°C)
knife, cut the croissants in half horizontally. Spoon the bechamel into the
Equipment l tbsp (15 g) milk powder
pastry bag and pipe a layer over the bottom half of each croissant. Top with
Large serrated knife 2½ tbsp (l oz./30 g)
a slice of ham, then pipe out another layer of bechamel over the ham. Place
sugar
Pastry bag with a plain
the tops on the croissants. Place the croissants on a baking sheet lined with
round tip 2 tsp (10 g) butter
parchment paper, then pipe a little bechamel over the tops. Sprinkle with
0.5 oz. (12 g) fresh yeast
Emmentaler cheese. Bake for 15 minutes and serve immediately.
1 tsp (5 g) salt
1¼ tsp (5 g) garlic
powder
3½ tsp (5 g) herbes
de Provence
Laminating butter
l stick 2 tbsp
+
(5.25 oz./150 g)
butter, preferably 84%
butterfat

Bechamel
3 tbsp (1.75 oz./50 g)
butter
Scant½ cup
(1.75 oz./50 g) flour
2 cups (500 g/500 ml
milk
Salt, pepper, and a pinch
of grated nutmeg

Fillings
8 slices ham (jambon
blanc)
Grated Emmentaler
cheese

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APPENDIXES

shaping a single-strand braid, 102-3 Chocolate Croissants, 79-80

INDEX shaping a three-strand braid, 106-7

shaping a two-strand braid, 104-5
Garlic-Herb Croissants, 296-97
Ham Croissants, 296-97
Sugar Brioche Tarts, 262-63 Two-Tone Chocolate Croissants, 212-13
Twisted Cinnamon Rolls, 216-17 Croissant au jambon, 296-97
Vegan Brioche, 238-39 Croque-Monsieur, Revisited, 290-91
Brioche ala cardamome, 246-47 Croque-monsieur revisite, 290-91
A Brioche des rois, 230-31 Cruffins, 220-21
almonds Brioche /euiiletee, 218-19 Crumpets, 198-99
Almond Cream, 114-15 Brioche vegan, 238-39 cucumber
Almond Croissants, 210-11 Brioche vendeenne, 236-37 Chicken Bao Buns, 282-83
Individual Pink Praline Brioches, 232-33 Briochettes aux pralines roses, 232-33 Falafel-Filled Pita Breads, 276-77
Kings' Cake, 222-23 buckwheat Pastrami Bagels, 272-73
Kougelhopf, 240-41 Buckwheat Bread, 180-81 Salmon Polarbr0d, 274-75
Praline Paste, 118-19 Rice and Buckwheat Rolls, 148-49 Vegetarian Black Bun Burgers, 280-81
Alsatian Pizza, 268-69 Bugnes, 254-55
anchovies, Pan Bagnat, 284-85 bulk fermentation (pointage), 23 D
apples buns desired dough temperature (DDT), 20
Apple Compote, 116-17 Cardamom Brioche Buns, 246-47 donuts
Apple Turnovers, 84-86 Hot Dogs, 294-95 Jam Donuts, 252-53
apricots (dried), Fruit and Nut Loaf, 158-59 Vegetarian Black Bun Burgers, 280-81 Ring Donuts, 256-57
artichokes, Focaccia, 266-67 Burgers, Vegetarian Black Bun, 280-81 doughs
autolyse, 20, 23, 44 butter, 18 Brioche Dough, 90-91
Classic Puff Pastry, 66-69
B C Folding Dough, 48-49
Babka, 228-29 candied fruits: Epiphany Brioche, 230-31 Inverse Puff Pastry, 70-73
bacon Cardamom Brioche Buns, 246-47 kneading dough by hand, 46-47
Alsatian Pizza, 268-69 carrots, Cheese and Vegetable Wraps, 286-87 kneading dough in a stand mixer, 45
Bacon Rolls, 166-67 Chaussons aux pommes, 84-86 levain-chef, 36-37
Bagels, Pastrami, 272-73 cheese master levain, 36-37
Bagel au pastrami, 272-73 Cheese and Vegetable Wraps, 286-87 refreshing levain-chef to make liquid levain,
Baguette aux grains, 132-33 Focaccia, 266-67 40-41
Baguette de tradition sur poolish, 128-29 Garlic and Cheese Naans, 204-5 refreshing levain-chef to make stiff levain,
Baguette rustique au levain T8o, 130-31 Ham and Tomato Pizza, 270-71 38-39
Baguette vieMoise, 142-43 Ham Croissants, 296-97 water dough (detrempe), 23
baguettes Revisited Croque-Monsieur, 290-91 Yeasted Puff Pastry, 74-76
Multiseed Poolish Baguettes, 132-33 Salmon Polarbr0d, 274-75 see also kneading dough; scoring dough;
Rustic Sourdough Baguettes, 130-31 Tomato, Mozzarella, and Pesto Panini, 278-79 shaping dough
Traditional Poolish Baguettes, 128-29 Chestnut Bread Rolls (Gluten-Free), 152-53 dried fruits
Vienna Baguettes, 142-43 Chicken Bao Buns, 282-83 Black Bread, 176-n
baker's percentage, 20 chocolate Bread Pudding, 260-61
baking bread Babka, 228-29 Fig Bread, 160-61
baking bread in a Dutch oven, 59 Chocolate Bread, 170-71 Fruit and Nut Loaf, 158-59
baking and cooling, 21,23 Chocolate Chip Vienna Bread, 244-45 Hazelnut Benoitons, 178-79
baking with steam, 21 Chocolate Croissants, 79-80 Panettone, 242-43
Bao Buns, Chicken, 282-83 Chocolate Spread, 120-21 Raisin Swirls, 81-83
bassinage, 23 Hazelnut and Chocolate Puff Pastries, 248-49
Bechamel Sauce, 122-23 New York Rolls, 226-27 E,
Beignets, 252-53 Pistachio-Chocolate Swirls, 214-15 Ecrin feuillete aux noisettes, 248-49
Beno1tons, Hazelnut, 178-79 Ring Donuts, 256-57 eggs, 18
Benoitons aux noisettes, 178-79 Two-Tone Chocolate Croissants, 212-13 Pan Bagnat, 284-85
beer: Tiger Bread, 172-73 Ciabattas, 174-75 Einkorn Bread, 192-93
Black Bread, 176-77 cinnamon: Twisted Cinnamon Rolls, 216-17 elasticity, 23
Black burger vegetarien, 280-81 Classic Puff Pastry, 66-69 Emmentaler cheese
boulangerie, 23 Compote, Apple, 116-17 Ham Croissants, 296-97
Braided Vendee Brioche, 236-37 cooling (ressuage), 23 Revisited Croque-Monsieur, 290-91
Bread Pudding, 260-61 Country Bread, 134-35 Epiphany
, Brioche, 230-31
Breadsticks, 196-97 cranberries (dried) Etoiles de pain d'epice, 190-91
Bretzels, 188-89 Fruit and Nut Loaf, 158-59
brioche Hazelnut Benoitons, 178-79 F
Babka,228-29 Panettone, 242-43 Falafel-Filled Pita Breads, 276-n
Braided Vendee Brioche, 236-37 creams fermentation, 20
Brioche Crown, 98-101 Almond Cream, 114-15 Fig Bread, 160-61
Brioche Dough, 90-91 Cinnamon Cream, 216 fish
Cardamom Brioche Buns, 246-47 Frangipane Cream, 222 Pan Bagnat, 284-85
Epiphany Brioche, 230-31 Pastry Cream, 112-13 Salmon Polarbr0d, 274-75
Flaky Brioche, 218-19 Pistachio Cream, 214 Flaky Brioche, 218-19
Gache Brioche, 234-35 Vanilla Pastry Cream, 226-27 Flaky Rolls, 200-201
Individual Parisian Brioches, 96-97 Croissant aux amandes, 210-11 Flaky Rye-Wheat Loaf, 202-3
Individual Pink Praline Brioches, 232-33 Croissant bicolore au chocolat, 212-13 F/ammekueche, 268-69
Large Parisian Brioche, 92-95 Croissants, 77-78 flour types, 16
Proven~al Olive Oil Brioche, 250-51 Almond Croissants, 210-11 Focaccia, 266-67

300
Folding Dough, 48-49 Multiseed Wholegrain Rolls, 156-57 Pastrami Bagels, 272-73
Fougasse, 206-7 mushrooms: Ham and Tomato Pizza, 270-71 Pastry Cream, 112-13
French Toast with Suzette Sauce, 258-59 pdte fermentee, 18
Fritters, Lyonnaise, 254-55 N Pave aux fruits, 158-59
Fruit and Nut Loaf, 158-59 Naans, Garlic and Cheese, 204-5 pesto: Tomato, Mozzarella, and Pesto Panini,
Naans au fromage, 204-5 278-79
G Navettes, 108-9 Petits pains feuilletes, 200-201
Gdche Brioche, 234-35 New York Rolls, 226-27 Pistachio-Chocolate Swirls, 214-15
Galette des rois, 222-23 nuts Pita aux falafels, 276-77
garlic Almond Cream, 114-15 Pita Breads, Falafel-Filled, 276-77
Garlic and Cheese Naans, 204-5 Black Bread, 176-77
.
pizza
Garlic-Herb Croissants, 296-97 Chestnut Bread Rolls (Gluten-Free), 152-53 Alsatian Pizza, 268-69
gluten, 17, 20 Fruit and Nut Loaf, 158-59 Ham and Tomato Pizza, 270-71
Gressins, 196-97 Hazelnut and Chocolate Puff Pastries, 248-49 Pizzajambon tomate, 270-71
Gua bao au poulet, 282-83 Hazelnut Benoitons, 178-79 Polarbrr.,d, Salmon, 274-75
Individual Pink Praline Brioches, 232-33 Pompe ahuile, 250-51
H Panettone, 242-43 Poolish, 18, 42-43
ham Pistachio-Chocolate Swirls, 214-15 Chocolate Bread, 170-71
Ham and Tomato Pizza, 270-71 Praline Paste, 118-19 Multiseed Poolish Baguettes, 132-33
Ham Croissants, 296-97 Walnut Bread, 164-65 Tiger Bread, 172-73
Revisited Creque-Monsieur, 290-91 Traditional Poolish Baguettes, 128-29
Revisited Parisian Ham Sandwich, 288-89 0 Praline Paste, 118-19
hazelnuts olives Pretzels, 188-89
Black Bread, 176-77 Focaccia, 266-67 proofing (appret), 21, 23
Fruit and Nut Loaf, 158-59 Olive Bread, 162-63 Provenc;al Olive Oil Brioche, 250-51
Hazelnut and Chocolate Puff Pastries, 2,48-49 Pan Bagnat, 284-85 puff pastry
Hazelnut Benoitons, 178-79
.
onions Apple Turnovers, 84-86
Panettone, 242-43 Alsatian Pizza, 268-69 Classic Puff Pastry, 66-69
Praline Paste, 118-19 Focaccia, 266-67 Cruffins, 220-21
Hot Dogs, 294-95 Tomato, Mozzarella, and Pesto Panini, 278-79 Hazelnut and Chocolate Puff Pastries, 248-49
Vegetarian Black Bun Burgers, 280-81 Inverse Puff Pastry, 70-73
I orange Kings' Cake, 222-23
Individual Parisian Brioches, 96-97 French Toast with Suzette Sauce, 258-59 making a double turn in puff pastry, 65
Individual Pink Praline Brioches, 232-33 Panettone, 242-43 making a single turn in puff pastry, 64
lnjera (Gluten-Free), 150-51 oven spring, 21, 23 New York Rolls, 226-27
Inverse Puff Pastry, 70-73 Palmiers, 87-89
p Sweet Breton Puff Pastries, 22,4-25
J Pain a la biere, 172-73 Yeasted Puff Pastry, 74-76
Jam Donuts, 252-53 Pain a la chdtaigne, 152-53 see also croissants; swirls
Japanese Milk Bread, 184-85 Pain au cacao, 170-71
Pain au curcuma. 168-69 R
K Pain au grand epeautre, 194-95 Raisin Swirls, 81-83
Kings' Cake, 222-23 Pain au levain de riz et sarrasin, 148-49 refreshing, 23
kneading dough, 20 Pain au petit epeautre, 192-93 Revisited Croque-Monsieur, 290-91
by hand, 46-47 Pain au sarrasin, 180-81 Revisited Parisian Ham Sandwich, 288-89
in a stand mixer, 45 Pain aux figues, 160-61 Rice and Buckwheat Rolls, 148-49
windowpane test, 20 Pain aux noix, 164-65 Ring Donuts, 256-57
Kougelhopf, 2,40-41 Pain aux olives, 162-63 rolls
Kouglof, 2,40-41 Pain blanc sur levain liquid, 140-41 Bacon Rolls, 166-67
Kouign-amann, 224-25 Pain comp/et, 136-37 Chestnut Bread Rolls (Gluten-Free), 152-53
Pain de campagne, 134-35 Flaky Rolls, 200-201
L Pain de meteil feuillete, 202-3 Milk Bread Rolls, 108-9
laminating butter, 62-63 Pain de mie, 144-45 Multise-ed Wholegrain Rolls, 156-57
Large Parisian Brioche, 92-95 Pain de mie au tangzhong, 184-85 New York Rolls, 226-27
levain, 17,23 Pain de mie bicolore, 182-83 Pan Bagnat, 284-85
levain-chef (master levain), 36-37 Pain de seigle, 138-39 Revisited Parisian Ham Sandwich, 288-89
refreshing levain-chef to make liquid levain, Pain noir, 176-77 Rice and Buckwheat Rolls, 148-49
40-41 Pain nutrition au levain, 154-55 Twisted Cinnamon Rolls, 216-17
refreshing levain-chef to make stiff levain, Pain nutrition aux grains, 156-57 Roule pistache et chocolat, 214-15
38-39 Pain perdu sauce Suzette, 258-59 Rustic Sourdough Baguettes, 130-31
Lyonnaise Fritters, 254-55 Pain polaire au saumon, 274-75 rye
Pain surprise, 292-93 Flaky Rye-Wheat Loaf, 202-3
M Pains au chocolat, 79-80 Rye Bread, 138-39
measuring ingredients, 20 Pains aux lardons, 166-67
milk, 18 Pains aux raisins, 81'-83 s
milk bread Palmiers, 87-89 Salmon Polarbr0d, 274-75
Japanese Milk Bread, 184-85 Pan Bagnat, 284-85 salt, 18
Milk Bread Rolls, 108-9 Panettone, 242-43 Sandwich Bread, 144-45
mozzarella Panini, Tomato, Mozzarella, and Pesto, 278-79 sandwiches
Garlic and Cheese Naans, 204-5 Panini tomate, mozzarella et pesto, 278-79 Revisited Croque--Monsieur, 290-91
Tomato, Mozzarella, and Pesto Panini, 278-79 Parisian Ham Sandwich, Revisited, 288-89 Revisited Parisian Ham Sandwich, 288-89
Multiseed Poolish Baguettes, 132-33 Parisien revisite, 288-89 Surprise Bread, 292-93

301
APPENDIXES

Wrap au /romage et legumes, 286-87

IN DEX (continued)
Wraps, Cheese and Vegetable, 286-87

y
yeast, commercial, 17-18
Yeasted Puff Pastry, 74-76

scoring dough, 21
baguettes, 54
boules, 55
with a chevron cut, 56
with a crosshatch (polka) cut, 58
with diagonal slashes, 57
seam (cle), 23
shaping dough, 21
into a baguette, 50-52
into a boule, so
into an epi (wheat stalk), 53
single-strand braid, 102-3
three-strand braid, 106-7
two-strand braid, 104-5
sourdough
Cardamom Brioche Buns, 246-47
Rustic Sourdough Baguettes, 130-31
White Sourdough Bread, 140-41
Spelt Bread, 194-95
Spiced Bread Stars, 190-91
sprouts: Cheese and Vegetable Wraps, 286-87
Stoneground Bread, 186-87
Stoneground Wheat Loaves, 154-55
storing and freezing, 21
sugar, 18
Sugar Brioche Tarts, 262-63
supple dough, 23
Surprise Bread, 292-93
Sweet Breton Puff Pastries, 224-25
swirls
Pistachio-Chocolate Swirls, 214-15
Raisin Swirls, 81-•83

T
Tarte au sucre, 262-63
Tiger Bread, 172-73
tomatoes
Falafel-Filled Pita Breads, 216-11
Focaccia, 266-67
Ham and Tomato Pizza, 270-71
Pan Bagnat, 284-85
Tomato, Mozzarella, and Pesto Panini, 278-79
Tourte de meule, 186-87
Traditional Poolish Baguettes, 128-29
tuna, Pan Bagnat, 284-85
Turmeric Bread, 168-69
Twisted Cinnamon Rolls, 216-17
Two-Tone Chocolate Croissants, 212-13
Two-Tone Sandwich Bread, 182-83

V
Vegan Brioche, 238-39
Vegetarian Black Bun Burgers, 280-81
Vienna bread
Chocolate Chip Vienna Bread, 244-45
Vienna Baguettes, 142-43
Viennoise aux pepites de chocolat, 244-45
Viennoiserie, 23

w
Walnut Bread, 161,-65
water, 18
water dough (detrempe), 23
White Sourdough Bread, 140-41
Whole Wheat Bread, 136-37

302
Acknowledgments

We would like to thank

Marine Mora and the Matfer Bourgeat Group
as well as the Mora store for the utensils and equipment.
www.matferbourgeat.com
www.mora.fr

303
 A MASTER CLASS IN THE ART
OF THE FRENCH BOULANGERIE

This complete baking course provides l=~RRAN DI Paris's expertise for preparing delicious
breads and viennoiserie-l=rench baked goods traditionally enjoyed for breakfast,
including the iconic croissant. This book is the perfect complement to l=~RRANDI Paris's
best-selling French Patisserie, which covers baked desserts.

Aspiring and confirmed bakers will:

Acquire essential kitchen skills for more than 40 culinary techniques, explained in
220 step-by-step photographs, to make homemade poolish; refresh levain; knead, shape,
and score loaves; laminate butter; prepare puff pastry; or braid brioche dough.

Prepare more than 80 sweet and savory recipes for breakfasts and snacks, including
l=rench classics and modern creations: brioche, cruffins, babka, kouign-amann, beignets,
kougelhopf, baguettes, country bread, grissini, pastrami bagels, croque-monsieurs, and more.

COMPREHENSIVE TECHNICAL AND GOURMET SAVOIR FAIRE

FROM AN EXCEPTIONAL, CENTURY-OLD CULINARY SCHOOL

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