Hi everyone, welcome to American Beauty Academy Brow Mapping module.

This
particular video is just going to show you and demonstrate basic brow mapping.
This is a very complex subject and you can really go down a rabbit hole here, but
I'm going to try and keep it as simple as possible. I'm sure you'll have many
questions and that is perfect because you can drop them in the comments or email
us. I want to just start off by explaining that this model here has wide set eyes.
If the client has narrow set eyes, closed set eyes in other words, or wide set
eyes. So how we normally start our brow mapping is we would go in and we would
actually measure our clients eye. Now there are many ways to do this, we can do
this with thread, we can do this with a caliper but I will say just be very
careful when you are measuring the eye either. And in some cases the client's eyes
will be very heavy, so it is best to do this with the eyes open, not closed, so
you can actually see the real size of the eye. Keep in mind the eyes are curved,
so we're just trying to get a basic idea of the measurement of the eye. I try to
go from where the skin actually kind of, I suppose, the slit of the eye. So
usually, if I was just to give you a pointer there, it's out there and to the
other point. So if we were to look at this client's eye, this would be roughly the
measurement of her eye. And if we were to look at the other eye, it'll probably be
a little bit smaller, which it is, because one eye is always going to be a little
bit bigger than the other. One side of the face is usually that way. This client's
face is not asymmetrical, but it does look like that because it's done through
makeup and photo enhancing. So if you were to take the ruler and measure the eye,
and let's just say hypothetically the eye measures 2.5. Then when you put the
ruler dead straight in the center because you're going to draw a line down the
center of your client's face generally with either a pencil or you're going to use
a mapping thread or mapping string. So you'll have like a line like this and then
you'll put your ruler in between both eyes and if the measurement, let's say, of
the eye was 3, and the gap is 3, that means they are proportional set. If, for
example, the eye measures a particular number, like say 3, but the gap is actually
smaller than 3, that means they're closed set, and if it's bigger than the 3, it
means they're wide set. Not that particular number in general, but it would have
to be bigger than the eye to be, the gap would have to be bigger than the eye to
be wide set, and the gap would have to be smaller than the eye number to be closed
set. So, moving on from that, our next step in our tutorial is going to be to
continue with creating our lines. Okay? So, once we have determined that step,
we're going to move on to creating our basic brow mapping lines. So essentially you
want to create a line in whatever way you can, starting from where the centre of
the eyes are, it doesn't even have to be to have a look at the lines and just try
to determine where the eye row is starting. So this line essentially tells you
where the eye row should start. Now we do have a little bit more accurate but it
does require a good eye. So what I actually ask my students to do is if you just,
you have two different ways of doing this, if you split the eye, you split this
section in half, so between this line and the middle line, you split it in half and
then you remove this line. It will allow the eyebrows to be a little bit closer
together, which is more of a newer modern day trend. So people just seem to like
the eyebrows a bit closer together. It helps you to get more necessarily a
guaranteed way to have perfect brows, but it often works quite well. There is
another method that you can use as well, and this one requires even a better eye.
So what this is, is you have to take the space between the middle line and the line
to your right and kind of visually divide that section into three equal parts. You
can see like, I know this can get a bit confusing because sometimes with all lines
you can get confused. I'm just going to color that one pink, I'm going to color
that one pink and then I want to just show you that what I've done there. So if
you have the original center line and you have the next line that tells you where
the eyebrow is supposed to start, you can create three equal columns in between
visually and then you can remove this line and you can remove this line and then
that can be your new start point. So you can see like when you cut it in half it
will look a lot further in and if you divide it into three it will be a little bit
further out. And I guess the main concept here is that, you know, it just helps
you to get more symmetry. So if you wanted to have this type of look, you can do
this on both sides. If you wanted this type of look, you can do this both sides.
So I think for the purpose of this demonstration, I'm going to use the method to
the right because it seems to be more accurate on this model. So I'm going to
clear that one. So I'm going to go back and just talk you through the steps. So as
I said before, you create your line from the tear duct up and then you're going to
divide So, sometimes it's hard to get it dead on, but as close as you can. And
I'm then going to, you see those are the original lines, I'm then going to remove
that line. Okay, so that's my new line. I'm going to do the same over here. I'm
going to remove this line and I'm going to remove this line here. I might have to
watch it over again a few times. So those are going to be my new starting lines.
That means that's where my eyebrow is going to start and you can see that there.
So these are what we call our vertical lines. I like to call the middle line a
zero. I like to call the start lines the inner start point. I like to call that my
one, my number one lines. And now I'm going to create the line that tells me where
the arch of my eyebrow is. So again, I'm just going to take a line here and some
people think it's a straight line and as you can see that's not correct because
it's nowhere near the arch. Again, I'll show you here, nowhere near the arch. What
you are supposed to do is go from the centre of the lip if possible and draw a
line through the pupil. Now sometimes you'll find that the actual arch is a little
bit further in or a little bit further out but generally speaking you want this
line to go through the pupil. Again whatever you do to one eye try to do it to the
other eye or even the center of the eye rather than the pupil so that would be
more the center of the eye than the pupil. And then I'll do the same thing to the
other eye. What you will notice is that the line actually comes from the top of the
nostril, so this part rather than here, through the nostril. So you can also start
your line from that little concave on the nose. Sometimes you can get a very
different angle. So now that we have line two, so that's zero, one and two, we're
going to move on to the next line. And again I'm going to keep the lines pink just
that way it's a little bit easier. So the next one I'm going to do the same thing
and create the tail end of the brow. So I'm going to come through the end of the
eye and out and you can see that helps me to show you where the end of the eyebrow
is. So this is your like basic brow mapping kind of start and end. A lot of
people are very good, they can just keep this brow mapping theory, this is quite
easy for a lot of people and they'll just start tinting the eyebrow and filling it
in like so. The only problem I find with this is that some people will have come
in and they will have very hairy eyebrows, so there will be a lot of hair under
the brow and above the brow and if they start tinting all of the hairs and you
know then what happens is it can look very messy and the tint can go all over the
face and you can wind up actually having just a lot of mess and the waxing it
becomes harder. Now if you've got a great eye for detail you might find you don't
need to go to the next step with the brow mapping and that's okay. But I would
just like to give you some advice if you are mapping this way, once you do your
lines make sure your lines are on the face. Use your mapping string or use a
pencil but it's much harder to do this with a pencil and a stick. It's much easier
to do this because keep in mind when you do this you actually have to create a
line that goes from this all the way out. So you want to actually see the line on
the face, the full line on the face. So I just want to show you something. So if I
was going to go in and draw, like I had a tint brush and I was drawing, I'll just
make my colour like a brown colour so you can actually see. If I was going to kind
of go in and tint my eyebrows like this, you can see I'm kind of be filling in the
eyebrow and I'd be following shape but if there was a lot of like hairs down here
I could make it very messy and then the client would just, the tint would be
everywhere. So you've really got to keep it very clean if you're going to do it
this way. So I'm going to give you some more advice if you're not sure of where
the eyebrow, where you should start the tinting as a general guide. So I'm going
to get another line but this time I'm actually going to use a little bit of a
white line. I'm going to take this line here, I'm just going to copy it and I'm
going to change the line to a blue color just so that way you can get an idea of
what I'm talking about. So if you take this line with your mapping thread and you
do a 180 degree angle and you put this line either on the eye crease, so you can
see it's on the crease of the eye. For mature clients, they'll have a very heavy
lid, so
you'll have to kind of use your thumb with their eyes closed to feel where the
socket bone is. And then what I want you to do is I just want you to simply
shorten that line so it comes in. And that's going to be like the base of where
you're going to start your brows. So if you actually look, it's kind of similar.
It grows a little bit higher up, which is okay, but it depends on the way the eyes
are set. So if someone has deep set eyes, naturally their eyebrows are going to be
set a lot lower, but if they have like kind of more protruding eyes, their
eyebrows are going to start higher up. So I kind of feel like as a general rule,
that's the best place to start the eyebrows. Then I'm going to give you another
guide. So if you wanted to figure out where the underside of the arch should go,
so you're going to go from that point to that point, just draw a line to where the
client's main definition is in their brows. So you can kind of see along that line
too, this one here, you can see the brows kind of are really more defined there.
So if I draw that line directly across at 180 degree, is that 180? No, I think
that's like 179. So 100, 100? No, that's not right. Two minutes there now. I don't
know why it doesn't want to sit properly here. I don't know why it doesn't want to
sit properly here. I'll try and bring this one down a bit. There we go.

Transcribed with Cockatoo