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Frank missed American-style cakes

Lifestyle when he moved to Paris so he started


baking again, experimenting with
different flavours and ingredients

sweet
When American baking sensation Frank Barron
relocated to Paris with his partner he thought it would
be for a year, but the city got under their skin. Six
Life is

years later, the pair are still in the French capital and
they couldn’t be happier, as Peter Stewart discovers

P
aris is always a good idea,” said decidedly modest, highlighting the fact that
Audrey Hepburn in the 1954 film there are lots of people in the US who are into
Sabrina. And she’s not wrong there. baking and upload pictures of their cakes onto
The British actress certainly wasn’t a social platform. Meanwhile, American-style
the first person to be drawn to the cake-making is still “a novelty for the Parisians.”
French capital; Paris has been one of the world’s What’s more, his loyal social media following
most attractive cities for time immemorial, with has enabled him to share and develop his love
everyone from Josephine Baker and Ernest of baking with leading brands. “Two years ago, I
Hemingway to Pablo Picasso and Oscar Wilde was approached by Galeries Lafayette to work on
living in the City of Lights at one time or another. a Thanksgiving social media campaign,” he says.
With its unique blend of beautiful This required him to produce one American-
architecture, world-class museums and top- style cake and a typical French pâtisserie with
notch restaurants, it is easy to see why so many an American twist, which Frank describes as “a
people fall for its charms. To live in Paris is a rite magical experience”.
of passage for many, and while people initially
move to the city for six months or a year, many A PICTURE SPEAKS A
end up staying much longer. THOUSAND WORDS
With all the beautiful sweet creations that
A CAPITAL IDEA appear on his Instagram page, you would
This was the case for Cake Boy Paris, aka assume that he has been to one of the world’s
Frank Barron, the 40-year-old American baker finest pastry schools. But you’d be wrong.
extraordinaire who swapped San Francisco for “I’ve had no professional training
the French capital in 2012. “I came to Paris for whatsoever,” he says. “I learned the basics
my partner’s work and we thought we’d only be when I was growing up with my mum and
here for a year or so, but then we fell in love with my grandmother. We would make typically
the city,” he says with a big smile on his face. American cakes with thick, creamy icing. And
Six years later, he feels very much at home then I started baking again when I moved
in Paris and has made a name for himself on to Paris just as a hobby and I watched video
social media as a cake maker, with particular tutorials to improve my technique.”
success on Instagram. “It’s given me so many During his first year in the French capital,
opportunities,” he says. “I opened the account Frank visited countless bakeries sampling
six years ago just for fun really and things just different French pâtisseries – think creamy
took off.” Today, Frank has in excess of 24,000 Paris-Brest, delicate milles-feuilles and sticky
followers, a healthy number that he attributes to Kouign-Amann. He quickly realised that he MORE
being in the right place at the right time.
“There was a suggested user campaign in
missed American-style cakes and there were
very few places (if any at all) that sold them in
ONLINE
© carolina caruso

2014 and I think that two-week period was when the city. “That’s when I started baking cakes at Learn more about life in the French capital
I gained the majority of my followers.” home in our Marais apartment,” he says. “I made with our complete guide to the
Ile-de-France region
When it comes to identifying why he has the cakes that I wanted and I experimented completefrance.com/regions-of-france
been so successful on Instagram, he remains with different ingredients and flavours, using

34 Living France March 2019 completefrance.com completefrance.com March 2019 Living France 35
Lifestyle

make it a seasonal affair, with different recipes you turn, and the city is just so walkable.”
each month; the summer highlight being a What better way to see and experience
decadent lemon curd and blackberry jam cake. Paris than to explore the city on foot? “I
“It might not sound like much, but it has been love wandering around the city’s streets and
a lot of work, as I’ve had to make 15 cakes green spaces,” he says. “I love to take my dog
(maximum five people per session) for each Parker to Jardin de Luxembourg – there is just See more of Frank’s
workshop,” he says. Each session ends with something about this place that I really like.” creations on Instagram
participants sampling their cakes in Frank’s One of the French capital’s many @cakeboyparis
Marais apartment, and they can even take their advantages for Frank is its café culture.
creations home with them. “I love being able to laze around on a terrasse Share your baking
“What I’ve loved about these sessions is that with a café crème, watching the world go by. creations with us
they have made me more confident as a baker,” But this is not really a part of London or New @livingfrance
he adds. Will he continue in the same vein this York City life.”
year? “I think I might do one session per season And some of his favourite cafés are
this year as it all depends on how my other within touching distance of his apartment.
plans work out.” “There are so many great cafés in the Marais
where I live and sometimes I don’t leave my
FOR THE LOVE OF PARIS arrondissement for days.”
Whatever path he decides to take with his cake- So, where else in the world can you find
making skills, Paris is still home for Frank – and so much in one city? “Amsterdam is maybe
it looks like it will continue to be the source of a close runner-up, although it’s really quite
many Instagram posts for some time to come. small. Paris is an amazing city and I know that
After baking the perfect sponge, Frank
“Paris is like an outdoor museum,” he says. I’m so lucky to be able to call it home.”
begins to decorate his three-tiered cake
There is beautiful architecture whichever way cakeboyparis.com

my friends in the city as guinea pigs to see what Pastry Chef 2018. “I adore Cédric Grolet, he’s Above: Frank takes dog Parker
worked and what didn’t.” my pâtisserie idol,” he laughs. “I enjoy going for for a walk on the streets of Paris Tips for
Impressed with the quality of his work,
Frank’s friends soon asked him to bake cakes
afternoon tea in Paris and I’ve been a couple of
times to Le Meurice, where Cédric is head pastry
Inset: One of Frank’s fully settling in
decorated three-tiered cakes Don’t expect everyday life
for their birthdays – which he describes as his chef. His pâtisseries are stunning, they are like
here to be exactly the same
“favourite thing” – and it wasn’t long before his works of art.”
as that of your home country.
creations started popping up in select cafés in Frank’s creations are, undoubtedly, works of
You just have to adapt to your
the city’s 3rd and 11th arrondissements. art too, and you would be forgiven for thinking
new life and accept that some
His hard work inside and outside the kitchen that Frank’s favourite cake to bake would be
things are different.
over the past few years saw him land a 14-page something rather elaborate. But his choice is
feature last year in American magazine Bake surprisingly simple. Adopt French joie de vivre
from Scratch. “My favourite is cinnamon bundt cake as as soon as possible after
“When they said that they wanted 14 pages it’s what my mum used to make us when we arriving in France, which
just on me and my cakes, I couldn’t believe it,” were growing up. When I make it here in Paris means making the most of
he says. What’s more, it was putting together the the wafts of cinnamon fill the apartment and life’s little pleasures, whether
collection of recipes for the US publication that immediately transport me back home.” Frank’s it’s savouring a tiny espresso or
gave Frank the inspiration for his very own book. And even seemingly expert bakers have favourites buying fresh tulips from a cute
“I’d love to create a lifestyle book with cakes for baking mishaps. “A couple of weeks ago I was Where to enjoy a
flower shop.
different occasions,” he says with excitement. “A baking three cakes at once for an event, and sweet treat in Paris Take time to enjoy food. The
couple of friends asked me ages ago about doing when I got them out of the oven I couldn’t work
French have a much deeper
one. I wasn’t ready then, but now I am. I’ve been out why none of them had risen. Then I saw the Mamie Gâteaux for a relationship with food than the
coming up with lots of ideas recently and hope bowl of eggs on the counter top, and I realised casual goûter. Be sure to British or the Americans; for
to send a plan off soon to a publisher.” that I had completely forgotten to put them in try a slice of the chestnut example, it’s not unheard of to
the mixture!” cake with the Sakura tea. spend hours over lunch. Just
LEAVE IT TO THE EXPERTS Frank’s success as an American-style baker
do as the French do when it
When it comes to French pastry, in Paris has also led him to start up Bontemps Pâtisserie for tea
© carolina caruso; frank barron; johann pai

comes to food!
Frank says that he has not yet his own decorating workshops. time in its secret garden in
tried his hand at this. “French “This is the fun part of the Marais. Don’t forget to Slow down and take the
pastry is renowned for being baking,” he says. The sessions sample the heavenly sablés. time to get to know people.
far more complex and so I leave have taken place once a Four Seasons George V to up
Takeaway drinks are not that
it to the professionals,” he month over an afternoon, the glamour and indulge in
popular here, which means
says. One professional he with each participant pastry chef Maxime Frédéric’s
you have to go to a café to
particularly admires is receiving three mini beautiful creations. His fleur
have your caffeine fix. This is a
Decorating workshops run by Frank in
Cédric Grolet, who was cakes to hand-decorate. vacherin is especially brilliant.
great way to make new friends.
his Marais apartment have proved popular
crowned World’s Best Frank likes to

36 Living France March 2019 completefrance.com completefrance.com March 2019 Living France 37

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