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 TheMayor’sletter
Welcome to London this January
There’s no better way to show that our capital is open to all
than London’s New Year’s Day Parade. With 8,000 performers
from across the world, the parade is a celebration of the
capital’s talent, diversity and sense of fun.
Brent is this year’s London Borough of Culture, so why not
explore its history and diversity? Brent will host events all
year, starting with RISE (18 Jan) – an outdoor celebration at
Wembley Park’s Olympic Way where you can see the history
of Brent told through dance, film and a reggae soundtrack.
Take a look at the innovative Picasso and Paper exhibition at
the Royal Academy of Arts (from 25 Jan). This is a chance to see
Picasso’s works and learn about his creative use of material.
Poet in da Corner returns to the Royal Court Theatre
(from 30 Jan). Inspired by London’s grime music scene, the
coming-of-age story is transformed into an imaginative show.
FIND YOUR
I hope you have a wonderful experience and a happy new year.

Sadiq Khan #LP

SELFIE
Mayor of London Share a London
selfie using our
Twitter: @LondonPlanner hashtag online
Facebook: LondonPlannerMag
Instagram: LondonPlanner
YouTube: www.youtube.com/londonplanner

JAN UARY 2020 | 3

LP JAN MAYORS LETTER.indd 3 03/12/2019 12:17

 ★★★★★ SUNDAY TIMES

‘CONJURES THE IMPOSSIBLE!

MAGICAL DOESN’T EVEN BEGIN
TO DESCRIBE IT.’ ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY

THE STORY CONTINUES ON STAGE

NOW BOOKING UNTIL JANUARY 2021
PALACE THEATRE, LONDON
www.HarryPotterThePlay.com
#CursedChild LDN TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter ™ WBEI

LP HPCC.indd 1 04/12/2019 11:04

 FA
SPE C Q

Contents
Fre IAL
asked quently
q
answeuestions
re
exper d by
ts

January 2020
03 Mayor’s welcome
Sadiq Khan welcomes you to London
06 Top 10 free attractions
The most popular places to visit
08 New Year’s Day Parade
From cheerleaders to marching bands,
watch performers take to the streets
12 The slow lane
Healthy meals, drinks and walks 20
18 King of collectors
George IV’s favourite treasures are
on show at The Queen’s Gallery
66 68
82 Britain Planner
Go on a Game of Thrones-inspired trip
98 London in numbers
Why the city is a sporting capital

Listings
20 Sightseeing
42 Museums & Galleries 52
52 Entertainment
66 Sport
68 Shopping
72 Eating Out
80 Nightlife
86 Essential Information

Maps
64 Theatreland
90 Central London 72
93 River services
94 London buses 42
96 London Underground

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• SHOPPIN G
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MONTHLY GUIDE
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JAN 20 • LONDONPL

at: www.visitlondon.com/londonplanner
FAQ
SPECIAL
How to get
sold-out tickets
for shows
and
sports

or: www.visitbritain.com/londonplanner
Read a digital copy: www.en.calameo.com
Subscribe to receive a printed copy:
JOIN TH
E subscriptions@morriseurope.com
PARTY Where to watch
New Year’s
the
Day Parade
FIND YOUR
A one year subscription is £30 to a UK
address and £60 to an overseas address
12:17
29/11/2019

COVER: NEW YEAR’S DAY PARADE © LNYDP. THIS PAGE:

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THAMESJET © MALCOLM GRIFFITHS/PHOTOSHELTER; JUDD

TRUMP COURTESY OF DAFABET MASTERS; HANDBAG CLINIC
© DAVID ANTHONY BELL; BURGER AND CHIPS COURTESY OF
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© RMN – GRAND PALAIS – ADRIEN DIDIERJEAN

JAN UARY 2020 | 5

LP JAN INSIDE THIS ISSUE.indd 5 04/12/2019 15:23

 Free Attractions
TOP
10
1 2
4 5
8 9
1 The British Museum
Famous museum housing the Rosetta Stone,
the Elgin Marbles and Egyptian mummies
2 Tate Modern
Former power station in Bankside containing
a huge international modern art collection
3 The National Gallery
Priceless European art belonging to the nation,
with works by Botticelli, da Vinci and van Gogh
4 Natural History Museum
Displays of the natural world, including
dinosaurs, prehistoric fossils and taxidermy
5 Southbank Centre
Major arts centre hosting music, dance and arts
events, plus the refurbished Hayward Gallery
6 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN TOP TEN.indd 6
London’s most popular free
attractions compiled according
to the latest visitor numbers.
www.visitlondon.com. Source: ALVA
3
6 7
THE BRITISH MUSEUM, TATE MODERN, SOUTHBANK CENTRE, SCIENCE MUSEUM, SOMERSET HOUSE, ROYAL MUSEUMS GREENWICH © ISTOCK;
THE NATIONAL GALLERY COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL GALLERY; NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM COURTESY OF NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM;
10
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM; ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS © DAVID PARRY
6 Victoria and Albert Museum
Incredible artefacts spanning more than 3,000
years, including art, sculpture and fashion
7 Science Museum
Interactive, scientific fun for kids and grown-ups,
boasting everything from rockets to steam engines
8 Somerset House
A neoclassical gem beside the River Thames that’s
home to contemporary arts and cultural events
9 Royal Museums Greenwich
Maritime history and world-class art at this
immense Unesco World Heritage Site
10 Royal Academy of Arts
A 250-year-old fine arts institution with
high-profile exhibitions in a variety of media
03/12/2019 12:20
 PI T
CC O
TA DI SE
KE LL NA
A AR
TH Y L L
E IN
E

GET CLOSER TO THE HOME OF ARSENAL

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539852 AFC Stadium Tours_PublicationAd.indd 1 01/07/2019 2:33 pm
 A
longside fireworks, one of the greatest
winter spectacles in London is the New Year’s
Day Parade, which first took place in 1987.
This year 8,000 performers entertain more than
half a million people lining the streets around some
of the city’s landmarks, plus TV viewers worldwide.
Here’s what to expect at this free event, which runs
from noon until 3.30pm.

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

The parade’s theme this year is ‘London Loves
Life’, and thousands of participants will celebrate
it through cheerleaders, huge inflatables, floats and
marching bands, plus classic cars including Aston
Martins and Rolls-Royces.
If, like me, you love a British pageant, you’re in
for a treat because there are horse-drawn carriages
carrying the Lord Mayor of the City of Westminster
and ambassadors from around the world; a traditional
horse parade; and the reading of a message of goodwill
from Buckingham Palace. London’s wonderfully
diverse citizens are involved, including a traditional
dragon dance performed by some of the city’s
Chinese community, the joyous tartan-clad Shree

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE; ALL IMAGES © LNYDP

Muktajeevan Swamibapa Pipe Band (one of my
favourites), the London School of Samba, and
the jazz, Caribbean, West and South African
and hip-hop influences of Kinetica Bloco.
For serious thrills, the MSI stunt riders
perform motorbike tricks and look out
for street dancers KNE, who made it big
on Britain’s Got Talent.

WHERE TO WATCH IT
The parade starts on Piccadilly outside
the Ritz hotel. It turns right to Piccadilly
Circus where it takes a right along the stone
fronts of the grand buildings of Regent
Street St James’s. It then heads left along Pall
Mall, and right along Cockspur Street, past
Canada House to Trafalgar Square.
Head down White street dancers KNE, who made it
big on Britain’s Got Talent hall, past 10 Downing Street
and Horse Guards to Parliament Square, where it ends
within sight of the Houses of Parliament. This is a
great way to do some sightseeing at the same time.

8 | LON DON PLAN N E R

LP JAN LNYDP.indd 8 03/12/2019 12:24

 PARADE
James Drury tells you how
to make the most of one of
London’s biggest and most
colourful parades
PROMOTIONAL FEATURE; ALL IMAGES © LNYDP

JAN UARY 2020 | 9

LP JAN LNYDP.indd 9 03/12/2019 12:26

 CHRISTMAS
PARADE

The best way to watch the three-hour

procession is to find a spot on the pavement.
If you plan to stay for the whole thing, take
some food and drink with you. Along the route
there are commentary points, which will keep
you up-to-date with what’s happening.
Everywhere will be busy, so if you have a
particular spot in mind, get there early. If you
sleep in, don’t worry – there’s a vantage point
at the top of Trafalgar Square near The National
Gallery, and although you will be away from the
action, it’s higher up for better views.
You can also visit the LNYDP Fan Zone, just
off the route behind Regent Street, where there
are big screens and global street food stalls.
Worth remembering: the bands are silent as
they pass the Cenotaph on Whitehall, as a mark
of respect for people who died during conflict.
This is likely to be the least busy area, so if you’re
looking to escape the crowds, this is your spot.
If you want to guarantee a seat, buy a ticket for
the grandstands along Piccadilly, Regent Street
St James’s and Whitehall.
www.lnydp.com/parade

TOP TIPS
• My absolute top tip is: wrap up. This is London
in January, people – you’re going to be standing
outside for four hours or more and it’s chilly.
• If you can’t see in the place you are, move
further along the route – you can usually find
somewhere quieter.
• After the parade, transport will be busy, so
take the time to enjoy the city. The Egyptian
stylings along the Victoria Embankment are
fascinating – then you could cross to the South
Bank for its Winter Market.
• There is limited transport on New Year’s Day,
so check what is running before you set off.

10 | LON DON PLAN N E R

LP JAN LNYDP.indd 10 03/12/2019 12:28

 HHHHH
‘Practically perfect
in every way’
DAILY TELEGRAPH, DAILY EXPRESS, OBSERVER, SUNDAY MIRROR,
MAIL ON SUNDAY, SUNDAY EXPRESS, SUNDAY TIMES
©Disney/CML

flying high at the Prince edward theatre | marypoppins.com

A DELFONT MACKINTOSH THEATRE

LP MARY P.indd 1 03/12/2019 11:28

 Life in the
slow lane
Neil Simpson eats, drinks and gets on his bike
to enjoy a healthy, eco-friendly day in London
t’s January and we’re being bombarded with
I health and wellbeing advice – whether you like
it or not. These bombardments are the subject
of Somerset House’s latest exhibition, Hyper
Functional, Ultra Healthy (from 13 Jan), which
argues that consumerism cannot make us happy
or healthy. I couldn’t agree more. So, here’s my
guide to a day out that will help you to slow down,
open your eyes to London’s natural world and
support businesses that are changing the city.
9 am
If you’re like me, you’ll probably wake up… later,
but it’s worth starting at 9am to make the most of
the day ahead. So travel to Regent’s Park station
(Bakerloo line), then walk north for 10 minutes
into The Regent’s Park, following The Broad
Walk. When you meet Chester Road, you’ll find
The Espresso Bar, just in time for breakfast.
12 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN WELLNESS.indd 12
Housed inside a quaint cottage, it serves coffee
and homemade pastries. For a heartier meal, walk
another five minutes north to The Broad Walk
Café for baps, toast or granola. www.benugo.com
10 am
This Royal Park boasts year-round floral plants in
Queen Mary’s Gardens (just west of The Espresso
MAN WITH EARPHONES © ROYAL ACADEMY
Bar) and a boating lake, but I’ve sent you here for
OF MUSIC; YOGA © CREATIVE COMMONS
a particular reason: Royal Parks’ free Music for
Trees app. Designed especially for The Regent’s
Park, it’s a walking route with music composed
by students from London’s Royal Academy of
MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK
Music. It covers the northeast corner of the
park, between The Broad Walk and the eastern
edge of the Outer Circle. The app tracks your
location and plays music that was specifically
composed for whichever tree you are near;
where tree canopies overlap, so does the music.
03/12/2019 12:35
 HEALTH

Xxxx xxxxx
xxxxxxxxxxxx

Hyper Functional,
Stroll around Ultra Healthy is on
London’s at Somerset House
Royal Parks
An arboriculturist taught the
composers about the different
characteristics of each tree, then
asked them to translate what they had learnt into
a piece of music. Simply walk through the trees,
look up and listen. A Royal Parks representative
says: ‘Being among trees makes all of us feel
better, in simple and profound ways.’ If possible,
MAN WITH EARPHONES © ROYAL ACADEMY

download both the app and then the walk itself

OF MUSIC; YOGA © CREATIVE COMMONS

over WiFi before you set off.

www.royalparks.org.uk

11 am
MAIN IMAGE © ISTOCK

It’s time to get on your bike, using Transport for

London’s cycle hire scheme. More than 11,500
bikes are at your disposal, available across 750
docking stations. Walk further north through the
Xxxx xxxxx
park (with London Zoo on your left) until you reach xxxxxxxxxxxx
its northeast corner and London Zoo car park’s

JAN UARY 2020 | 13

LP JAN WELLNESS.indd 13 03/12/2019 12:36

 HEALTH
Neil on a
Santander
bicycle
bike station. It costs £2 for 24 hours of access to
the scheme; the first 30 minutes of every journey
are free, as long as you ‘dock’ your bike at a station
every 30 minutes. Otherwise, you’re charged £2
per 30 minutes. Use the blue and yellow signs
next to each station to navigate, or download
the Santander Cycles app to plan routes and
find stations. www.tfl.gov.uk
Undock a bike and – if you’re feeling energetic
– follow the Outer Circle road, a 4km circuit
around The Regent’s Park. It takes about 20
minutes to complete this flat, partially car-free
route, which features beautiful flower beds and
elegant mansions.
14 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN WELLNESS.indd 14
Regent’s Canal
Noon
Travelling across London’s flat terrain is leisurely
by bike – it’s the narrow roads and heavy traffic
that cause the problems. So, I’m going to take you
east using Regent’s Canal. It’s a great way to
head across north London without battling cars.
Leave The Regent’s Park from its northeast
corner and follow the canal as it flows north past
St Mark’s Church and into Camden. You’ll pass
Camden Lock and pretty little parks through
King’s Cross. Be careful; the canal’s towpath
is narrow in places and walkers have priority,
so be ready to jump off and walk through busy
REGENT’S CANAL © ISTOCK; NEIL SIMPSON COURTESY OF NEIL SIMPSON
sections. After about 30-40 minutes, you’ll be
in Angel. www.canalrivertrust.org.uk
1 pm
Look out for Culpeper Community Garden on
your left as you approach Angel and dock your
bike at Cloudesley Road station. Copperhouse
Chocolate, behind Islington Police Station
in Chapel Market, claims to be London’s only
vegan chocolate shop and café – so if you’re
thinking about trying veganism, experiment
here. The small menu covers dishes including
cornbread waffles with beer-marinated
mushrooms and spinach and black-bean chilli
with savoury chocolate. Copperhouse serves
Monmouth coffee, too, which is possibly the
best in London – trust me.
www.copperhousechocolate.co.uk
03/12/2019 12:37
LP TOLST.indd 1 28/11/2019 11:48

HEALTH
Copperhouse
Chocolate
2 pm
You’re going to spend the rest of the afternoon on
foot, so it’s time for a 20-minute walk east to Old
Street’s Banya No. 1 spa. You can rejoin the canal
from Copperhouse if you like, but remember to
turn right just before The Narrowboat pub and
walk down Wharf Road to Micawber Street.
Banya No. 1 is a Russian-style experience with
a small sauna and freezing-cold plunge pool. Its
trademark treatment is parenie (10 mins for £30),
which involves gruff Russian men beating you
with branches while you lay in the sauna wearing
a strange hat. It’s mad but brilliant and makes you
feel great afterwards. Banya has a small restaurant,
serving drinks (including vodka) and Russian
dishes such as beetroot soup at reasonable prices.
A two-hour stay without treatments starts at £30
(Sat-Sun, £45) – don’t forget to bring a swimming
costume or similar. www.gobanya.co.uk
5 pm
You’ll be sleepy now, so we’re going for another
bracing walk east, into the heart of Shoreditch
along Old Street to Redemption Bar. Many vow
to give up alcohol in ‘dry January’ but, rather than
suggesting a non-alcoholic cocktail in a wet bar,
how about a venue that’s dry all year round? Each
drink here also abstains from refined sugar and
everything’s vegan. Pick from signature cocktails,
long tonics, beers, kombucha or plant spirits,
created from ingredients like ashwaganda and
schisandra berry. www.redemptionbar.co.uk
16 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN WELLNESS.indd 16
Banya No. 1
Nine Lives
COPPERHOUSE CHOCOLATE © KIRSTY OWEN; BANYA NO. 1 COURTESY OF BANYA NO. 1; NINE LIVES COURTESY OF NINE LIVES
7 pm
It’s my favourite time of day: dinner. Cub
restaurant is a 10-minute walk north from
Redemption. This is the first restaurant by
world-renowned bartender Ryan Chetiyawardana,
with a mission to eliminate food waste in its
kitchen. The dining room is made from recycled
materials and the menu relies on leftover food.
The seven-course set menu (£67) includes six
drinks. Dinner here was the tastiest sustainability
lesson I’ve ever had. www.lyancub.com
Late evening
Congratulations! You’ve slowed down, taken time
to connect with nature, avoided contributing to
traffic pollution, experimented with veganism and
supported sustainable businesses. Not ready for bed
yet? Then take the Northern line to London Bridge
for a late-night basement bar that uses hyper-local
ingredients. Nine Lives on Holyrood Street uses
its garden to make many elements of its great
drinks, which means you’re getting a true taste of
London. Closed Sun-Mon. www.ninelivesbar.com
Hyper Functional, Ultra Healthy, 13 Jan-9 Feb.
Somerset House Studios’ New Wing, Strand, WC2R
1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. www.somersethouse.org.uk
03/12/2019 12:42
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BOOK YOUR 2020 VISIT NOW

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LP WBST.indd 1 28/11/2019 11:50

 Debt, adultery, theatrics
and extreme extravagance…
Neil Simpson finds that
The Queen’s Gallery’s
exhibition combines all of
these dramatic elements in
one man: King George IV

ALL IMAGES: ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/© HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019

Sir Thomas Lawrence’s

portrait of George IV, 1821

18 | LON DON PLAN N E R

LP JAN GEORGE ADV.indd 18 03/12/2019 12:55


Shield of
Achilles, 1821
The Three Eldest
Princesses
by Thomas
Gainsborough,
1783-84
G
eorge IV: Art & Spectacle owes its lavish
exhibits to a king who seemed happiest
pursuing the finer things in life. The new
exhibition at The Queen’s Gallery displays some
of the treasures of the Royal Collection, which
George IV played a major part in establishing.
Ascending to the throne in 1820, George IV’s
coronation at Westminster Abbey was a glittering
occasion, with the new king overseeing decorative
details, such as his coronation robes. Look out
for the golden Shield of Achilles, which was
displayed behind the king at the banquet inside
ALL IMAGES: ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/© HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019
Westminster Hall at the Houses of Parliament.
EXPENSIVE TASTES
Even before the crown was placed upon George’s
head, his expensive habits were changing the
London landscape. That’s because his father
George III was considered mentally unfit to rule
in 1811, so his son was named Regent. While
holding this caretaker position, George junior
set about creating Regent Street with architect
John Nash – as well as The Regent’s Park.
While George was the Prince of Wales (the title
that is bestowed upon the first person in line to
the British throne), it is reported that he managed
to rack up debts of approximately £400,000.
In today’s money, that translates to £31 million.
Much of this astronomical figure was amassed as
the prince decorated his home, Carlton House
on Pall Mall. By comparison, the fact that George’s
coronation cost £240,000 underlines just how
extravagant the ceremony was.
LP JAN GEORGE ADV.indd 19
PROMOTION
Aelbert Cuyp’s
The Passage Boat, c.1650
Rembrandt’s The Shipbuilder
and his Wife, 1633
George pursued the most celebrated Flemish and
Dutch art of the era to hang at Carlton House. His
crowning splurge was Rembrandt’s 1633 work The
Shipbuilder and his Wife – bought in 1811, it cost
him more than any other painting in his lifetime.
AFFAIRS OF THE HEART
George’s own marriage to Princess Caroline
of Brunswick was rocky. Wed in 1795, the couple
were paired together in order to pay off George’s
debts. Caroline gave birth to Princess Charlotte,
but it wasn’t long before both had affairs. George
tried hard to prevent Caroline from being named
Queen. Her final attempt to claim the title came
during her estranged husband’s coronation, but
Caroline was refused entry to Westminster Abbey
and died a few weeks later in August 1821.
By the time he became king aged 57, George IV
was infamous for colossal spending habits, a
messy marriage and gluttony; he had a public
image problem. This is illustrated by the satirical
cartoons that were made during his reign.
If you’re considering a trip beyond London,
you can currently discover more treasures
collected by George IV in Brighton. A Prince’s
Treasure at the Royal Pavilion (to autumn 2021)
is a chance to see more than 120 decorative
pieces of art, which were commissioned by
George while he was Prince Regent. He loved
this seaside town and had the lavish Brighton
Pavilion built for his trips there.
To 3 May. The Queen’s Gallery, Buckingham
Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7301. www.rct.uk
JAN UARY 2020 | 19
03/12/2019 12:55
 Sightseeing
FAQ
IAL
SPECen
Can you swim in the Thames?
tly
Frequ tions
es
asked qu ed by
answer ts
exper
I
hear this question being asked almost every
time I go for a walk along the River Thames,
so here’s the answer: not unless you are
stupidly brave – and it’s actually illegal.
Speaking of brave, British comedian David
Walliams famously swam the entire 225 km
of the Thames in aid of Sport Relief in 2011.
It took eight days and he became very ill during
the process (the press called it ‘Thames Belly’)
but he refused to quit, made it to the end and
raised more than £1m for the charity.
I think the reason I hear this question asked
so much is because visitors are fascinated with
the city’s mighty – but murky – River Thames.
London’s dense urban stretches can feel
claustrophobic, so being able to gaze up and
see the sky and appreciate the cityscape from
a riverbank is priceless. The bridges offer
a prime spot for photographs; my personal
favourite place is the expansive view of the
City of London and St Paul’s Cathedral from
the Hungerford footbridges near the
Southbank Centre.
20 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN SIGHTS.indd 20
Bateax London’s
Glass Room
If you want to get up close
to the river, there are plenty
of options. Adventurers can
have the Thames sprayed all
over them on an open-top
speedboat cruise, with
ThamesJet or Thames
Rockets. Jet offers the
ThamesRush ride, which
smashes up and down the river for 50 minutes,
while Rockets’ options include the Captain
Kidd’s Canary Wharf Voyage, which is designed
specifically with children in mind (www.thames
jet.com; www.thamesrockets.com).
THAMESJET © MALCOLM GRIFFITHS;
At the other end of the adrenaline spectrum,
GLASS ROOM © MATT FREESTONE
City Cruises hosts afternoon tea cruises,
while Bateaux London’s recently launched
Glass Room restaurant offers a panoramic
dining option thanks to its glass walls and roof
(www.citycruises.com; www.bateauxlondon.com).
If reading this has made you realise you’d quite
like an indoor swim during your trip, I suggest S
XXXX
you visit Stratford’s Aquatics Centre in the
O
W
03/12/2019 13:02

ThamesJet
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. It is beautiful,
but check first that you’ll be able to use the
main pool (the training pool is comparatively
ordinary) and look out for events among all
the lane swimming. Who knows, you might
THAMESJET © MALCOLM GRIFFITHS;
even spot the Olympic medal-winner Tom
GLASS ROOM © MATT FREESTONE
Daley, who sometimes trains in the centre
(www.londonaquaticscentre.org).
– Neil Simpson
SAVE £££s
XXXX
ON ATTRACTIONS
WITH THE LONDON PASS®
LP JAN SIGHTS.indd 21
INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44.
Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates
for our Central London map (p. 90). Prices listed
here are for tickets bought in person – reductions
may be available online
SIGHTSEEING
APSLEY HOUSE
Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to
see its grand interiors and fine art. Wed-Sun &
bank hols 10am-4pm. Adult £10.50; child £6.30.
149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT.
T: 020-7499 5676. www.english-heritage.org.uk.
Station: Hyde Park Corner. F6.
THE BRITISH LIBRARY
The world’s largest library has a great collection
as well as a programme of temporary exhibitions.
Check for times. Admission free; charges for
tours, some exhibitions and events. 96 Euston
Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. www.bl.uk.
Station: King’s Cross. C7.
BUCKINGHAM PALACE
The London residence of the British monarch
is normally closed to the public, but check for
special tours this month. The Mall, SW1A 1AA.
T: 0303-123 7300. www.rct.uk/buckinghampalace.
Station: Victoria/Green Park. F6/F7.
CHANGING THE GUARD
Watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on the
Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather).
From 10am; please check for dates; free to
attend. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A
1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.householddivision.
org.uk. Station: Victoria/Green Park. F6/F7.
CUTTY SARK
Climb aboard the world’s last surviving
tea clipper, located in Greenwich. Daily 10am-5pm.
Adult £15; child £7.50. Joint tickets with the
Royal Observatory available. Book online to
save. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT.
T: 020-8312 6608. www.rmg.co.uk. Station: Cutty
Sark/Greenwich. Off map.
DR JOHNSON’S HOUSE
Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his
English dictionary, first published in 1755,
in this 18th-century period home. Mon-Sat
11am-5pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child
£3.50. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353
3745. www.dr johnsonshouse.org. Station:
Temple/Chancery Lane. D9.
£5.00 OFF
MULTIDAY PASSES
Free entry into over 70 attractions
NOVE M B E R 2019 | 21
www.londonpass.com
03/12/2019 13:04
 Sightseeing
HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT
See the stunning art and architecture inside this
working parliament building. Tours every Sat.
Multimedia self-guided tour adult £19.50, young
adult (16-18) £17, child £8 (one child free per
paying adult); guided tour adult £26.50, young
adult £22, child £11.50; child-friendly family
guided tour adult £19.50, child free. Palace of
Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA.
T: 020-7219 4114. www.parliament.uk/visit.
Station: Westminster. F8.
THE JEWEL TOWER
Built around 1365 for Edward III’s treasures. Sat- Daily from 10am; closing times vary. Advance:
Sun 10am-4pm. Adult £5.70; child £3.40. Abingdon adult from £16; child from £19. On the day:
St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. www.english-
heritage.org.uk. Station: Westminster. F8.
KENSINGTON PALACE
Closed 6-17 Jan. This royal residence sits in
Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s
last home and is where the Duke and Duchess
of Cambridge live. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult
£21.50; child £10.70. Kensington Gardens,
W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk.
Station: High Street Kensington. Off map.
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ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW
Better known as Kew Gardens, this World Heritage
Site contains plants from across the globe.
To 5 Jan: Christmas at Kew.
Amazing light installations; 5pm-10pm; adult £18;
child £11; booking essential. Daily; check for times.
Adult £13.50; child £4.50. Royal Botanic Gardens,
Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332
5655. www.kew.org. Station: Kew Gardens. Off map.
KIDZANIA LONDON
KidZania has everything a child could
COSTUMED DANCER © BRENT BOROUGH OF CULTURE
dream of including TV and animation studios.
NEASDEN TEMPLE © ISTOCK/VICTOR HUANG;
adult from £18; child from £38. Westfield
London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA.
T: 0330-131 3333. www.kidzania.co.uk.
Station: Shepherd’s Bush. Map inset.
THE LONDON BRIDGE EXPERIENCE
An exciting history lesson on the past of the
1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Check for
times and prices. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-
7403 6333. www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com.
Station: London Bridge. E10.
03/12/2019 13:07
COSTUMED DANCER © BRENT BOROUGH OF CULTURE
NEASDEN TEMPLE © ISTOCK/VICTOR HUANG;

Culture for everyone

It’s a new year and a new London Borough of Culture, where
the Mayor of London’s award lavishes money and resources on a
deserving borough’s arts scene. This year’s winner is Brent in the
north west of the capital, home to Wembley Stadium and magnificent
Neasden Temple. Hundreds of locals have been recruited for the launch
ceremony, RISE (18 Jan), which combines dance, film and projections.
www.brent2020.co.uk

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JAN UARY 2020 | 23

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 Sightseeing
THE LONDON DUNGEON
This attraction whisks you back to the
capital’s perilous past. Please check for times
and prices. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd,
SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. www.thedungeons.com.
Station: Waterloo/Embankment. F8.
LONDON EYE
This London icon is one of the world’s
largest observation wheels. Joint tickets with
Sea Life London Aquarium, London Dungeon,
Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. Check
for times and prices. County Hall, Westminster
Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000.
www.londoneye.com. Station: Waterloo. F8.
LONDON MITHRAEUM
This cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman
temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years
ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains
are brought to life through an immersive, multi-
sensory experience. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun
noon-5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm.
Admission free. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA.
T: 020-7330 7500. www.londonmithraeum.com.
Station: Bank. D10.
Feel
wonder
first
hand
Members go free
Book online to save at westminster-abbey.org
24 | LON DON PLAN N E R
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ZSL LONDON ZOO
Immerse yourself in the animal
kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo,
which has more than 750 species. Daily from
10am; check online for seasonal closing times
and prices. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722
3333. www.zsl.org. Station: Camden Town. B6.
MADAME TUSSAUDS
Celebrated home of life-sized wax figures. Check
for times. Adult £35; child £30. Marylebone Rd,
NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. www.madame
tussauds.com/london. Station: Baker Street. C6.
THE MONUMENT
This beautiful stone column was built in 1677.
Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint
tickets with Tower Bridge available. Monument
St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. www.the
monument.org.uk. Station: Monument. E10.
THE O2
Entertainment and exhibitions. To 31 Aug:
ABBA: Super Troupers the Exhibition. Peninsula
Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.the
o2.co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset.
03/12/2019 13:10
 THE GUARDIAN

EVENING STANDARD

TIME OUT

EVENT, THE MAIL ON SUNDAY

CANOPIC COFFINETTE OF TUTANKHAMUN

“…literally dazzling”
Tom Holland, The Sunday Times

150 ORIGINAL ARTEFACTS FINAL WORLD TOUR

Book Tickets:
BOOK NOW

LP TUTANKHAMUN.indd 1 03/12/2019 10:38

 Sightseeing
OLD ROYAL NAVAL COLLEGE
Sir Christopher Wren’s riverside masterpiece,
part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage
Site, is home to a neoclassical chapel and the
Painted Hall. Daily 10am-5pm. General admission
free; Painted Hall adult £12; child free. King
William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799.
www.ornc.org. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Map inset.

18 STAFFORD TERRACE Family time

This grand house offers an insight into the
personal life of cartoonist Edward Linley If you like the sound of prancing around a
Sambourne. Conventional tours Wed & Sun stately home in an old-fashioned frock coat
11am-12.15pm; costumed tours Sat 11am- for an afternoon, Fulham Palace’s Family

FULHAM PALACE © KATHLEEN MCCULLOCH

12.15pm; drop-in Wed, Sat & Sun 2pm-5.30pm.
Adult from £9; child free. 18 Stafford Terrace,
W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. www.rbkc.gov.uk.
Station: High Street Kensington. Off map.
THE ROYAL MEWS
This part of Buckingham Palace houses the
Queen’s carriages and vehicles and is currently
closed to visitors for winter (to 1 Feb).
Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123
7302. www.rct.uk/royalmews. Station: Victoria. F6.
Fun Day (26 Jan) is for you – but you might
want to consider bringing a child with you, too.
The theme is ‘grand designs’, inspired by an
era during which the palace was remodelled
by a succession of residents over the 18th and
19th centuries. So, as well as opportunities to
model fancy period fashions, kids can create
Gothic window designs and have a go at making
a fan. Drop in between 11am and 3pm.
www.fulhampalace.org

Sightseeing Tours

www.goldentours.com

TM & © 2019 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.

Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR.

LONDON OUT OF LONDON HOP-ON HOP-OFF WARNER BROS. ATTRACTION

DAY TOURS DAY TOURS OPEN TOP TOURS STUDIO TOUR LONDON TICKETS

26 | LON DON PLAN N E R

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 THE STATE ROOMS
BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Enjoy an Exclusive Guided Tour

of the magnificent State Rooms
at Buckingham Palace
Available on selected dates 21 December 2019 – 2 February 2020
Pre-booking is highly recommended

www.rct.uk
+44 (0)303 123 7300

LP BUCKINGHAM PALACE.indd 1 28/11/2019 11:54

 Sightseeing
THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY
Stand astride the historic Prime
Meridian, where east meets west. Uncover the
history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daily
10am-5pm. Adult £16; child £8. Joint tickets
with Cutty Sark available. Blackheath Ave,
SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. www.rmg.co.uk.
Station: Greenwich. Map inset.
SEA LIFE LONDON
One of Europe’s largest aquariums with
500 species of global marine life and walk-through
tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above
a school of sharks. Please check for times and
prices. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1
7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. www.sealife.co.uk/london.
Station: Westminster/Waterloo. F8.
THE VIEW FROM THE SHARD
Ascend the tallest building in Western
Europe in a high-speed lift. At 309m up, on a
clear day you can see as far as Windsor. Daily
from 10am; please check for closing times. Adult
from £25; child from £20. 32 London Bridge St,
SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. www.theviewfromthe
shard.com. Station: London Bridge. E10.
See it. Hear it. Feel it.
Take the all-new interactive stadium
tour and museum experience at
Chelsea Football Club.
Get closer than ever before with exclusive
content, 360 films and much more.
Available in 12 languages
Visit www.chelseafc.com/stadium for more information
28 | LON DON PLAN N E R
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SPENCER HOUSE
This aristocratic palace was built in 1766 by
Earl Spencer, an ancestor of Princess Diana. It is
possible to visit on a one-hour guided tour. Sun
10.30am-5.30pm; Mon pre-booked groups only.
Adult £15; child £12. 27 St James’s Place, SW1A
1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. www.spencerhouse.co.uk.
Station: Green Park. E7.
ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS
Landmark Palladian church with tours, live
classical music and art exhibitions. Mon-Fri
8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission
free; brass rubbing from £4.50. Trafalgar Square,
WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. www.stmartin-
in-the-fields.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
ST PAUL’S CATHEDRAL
Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral
has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to
the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps
to the Golden Gallery for a classic London
panorama. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20;
child £8.50. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD.
T: 020-7246 8350. www.stpauls.co.uk. Station:
St Paul’s. D9/10.
03/12/2019 13:15
 THE QUEEN’S GALLERY
BUCKINGHAM PALACE

www.rct.uk
+44 (0)303 123 7301

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 Sightseeing
TOWER BRIDGE
This breathtaking bridge, completed in 1894,
is one of London’s most famous landmarks.
Joint tickets with The Monument available.
Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20.
Please check for bridge lift times. Tower Bridge
Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. www.towerbridge.
org.uk. Station: Tower Hill. E11.
TOWER OF LONDON
This historic landmark includes
the Jewel House, home of the
Crown Jewels. To 5 Jan: Ice Rink.
Book a 45-minute session on this
rink, within the Tower’s moat
area; adult from £15; child
£10.50, Mon-Fri 11am-9pm;
Sat-Sun 10am-9pm. Enjoy free
guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’
(Yeoman Warders). Tue-Sat
9am-4.30pm; Sun-Mon
10am-4.30pm. Adult £27.50;
child £13.10. Tower Hill,
EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799.
www.hrp.org.uk. Station:
Tower Hill. E11.
From Buckingham Palace to the Royal Pavilion
Treasure
A PRINCE’S
The Royal Collection returns to Brighton
ROYAL PAVILION • BRIGHTON BN1 1EE
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UP AT THE O2
Prepare for an unforgettable experience which
will take you on an uplifting expedition across
the roof of The O2. Please check for times and
wheelchair access. From £30. The O2, Peninsula
Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. www.the
o2.co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset.
WARNER BROS. STUDIO
TOUR LONDON
Explore behind the scenes
of the legendary Harry Potter films
with The Making of Harry Potter
Tour. To 26 Jan: Hogwarts in the
Snow. See the breathtaking
Hogwarts Castle model sprinkled
with snow. Please check for times;
closed 27-31 Jan. Adult £47;
WESTMINSTER ABBEY © ISTOCK
child £38. Booking essential.
Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden,
Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS.
T: 0845-084 0900. www.wbstudio
tour.co.uk. Station:
Visit Westminster Euston to Watford
Abbey and its Junction, then shuttle
royal tombs (p. 32) bus. Off map.
Admission payable
Members free
brightonmuseums.org.uk
21 SEPTEMBER 2019
– AUTUMN 2021
Images: Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2019
03/12/2019 13:17
 WINDSOR CASTLE

WINDSOR

HOME OF THE
ROYAL WEDDING
©PA

www.rct.uk
+44 (0)303 123 7304

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 Sightseeing
WESTMINSTER ABBEY LONDON EYE RIVER CRUISE
Consecrated in 1065, this magnificent abbey Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing
is the crowning and burial site of most English river cruise. Daily 10.45am-4.45pm. Adult
monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner. £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with
Abbey only adult £23; child £10. Abbey and the London Eye available. London Eye Pier,
The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries SE1 7PB. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise.
(closed 20-24 Jan) adult £28; child £10. Station: Waterloo. F8.
20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152.
www.westminster-abbey.org. Station: THAMES CLIPPERS
Westminster/St James’s Park. F7. The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river.
Hop-on and hop-off service across 23 piers. Check
RIVER TRIPS ‘Essential Information’ section for prices. Look
CITY CRUISES out for bi-weekly Illuminated River official boat
Daily guided sightseeing tours on the tours from £5. www.thamesclippers.com.
River Thames between Westminster,
London Eye, Tower and Greenwich THAMESJET
Piers. River Red Rover is an all-day ThamesRush is a 50-minute boat
hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. ride with sightseeing and awesome
The London Showboat cabaret cruise Wembley aquabatics (p. 20). Departs from
departs from Westminster Pier and Stadium’s Westminster Pier. Check for
sliding roof, used
includes a four-course meal with live in heavy rain, times and prices, as departures are
music, daily from 7.30pm. Other covers every seat, dependent on the tide. Minimum

ICON © ISTOCK
cruises also available. Please check making it the height 1.35m/4ft 5in. Westminster
the website for times and prices. world’s largest Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400.
Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 covered stadium www.thamesjet.com. Station:
0400. www.citycruises.com. Westminster. F8.

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32 | LON DON PLAN N E R

TC_ADS_LP_91mmx118mm_new_logo_ART_blue.indd 1 05/08/2019 10:30

LP JAN SIGHTS.indd 32 03/12/2019 13:19
 The best of London
all under one spire
Upstairs explore beautiful architecture, church
services or a candlelit concert.
Downstairs enjoy some brass rubbing, shopping
and the Café in the Crypt.
Outside don’t miss the Café in the Courtyard.

St Martin-in-the-Fields
Trafalgar Square, London WC2N 4JJ
ICON © ISTOCK

+44 (0)20 7766 1100

www.smitf.org

ITINERARY
PLANNER
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STONE WHARF, LITTLE VENICE © INLAND WATERWAYS ASSOCIATION

LONDONPLANNER.COM
2019 |
MAY 2020
JAN UARY 41
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 Sightseeing
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS
BEE MIDTOWN GUIDED WALKS
Free, themed walking tours around Bloomsbury,
Holborn and Farringdon. Check website for
themes and meeting points. T: 020-7078
7077. www.bee-midtown.org.
BIG BUS TOURS
Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet
of open-top, double-decker buses.
Various packages are available.
A one-day orientation tour includes
a free walking tour and river cruise.
Classic Ticket (one day) adult £39;
child £29. Departure points vary.
T: 020-7808 6753. www.bigbustours.com.
BIG BUS WALKING TOURS
Historic guided walks from Green Park
or Trafalgar Square. Daily 10am. Free
with Big Bus London Tour tickets.
Departs from Big Bus stop in Trafalgar
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS
A qualified guide drives you in a taxi for
up to five people. Choice of tours. Prices
vary and are per taxi. T: 020-8590 3621.
www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk.
CITY OF LONDON
GUIDES WALKS
A variety of themed walks not
offered by other companies, all
within London’s historic Square
Mile. Prices range from free to
£12.50. Departure points vary.
www.cityoflondonguides.com.
THE CLASSIC TOUR
Hop aboard a restored 1960s
Routemaster double-decker bus
and see London’s landmarks in an
entertaining, 75-minute tour. Check
for times and prices. Departs from
Northumberland Ave, off Trafalgar

SOLDIER © ISTOCK
Square. T: 020-7808 Square (bus stop outside The
6753. www.bigbus Watch Changing Grand hotel). T: 0844-318 7655.
tours.com. Station: the Guard (p. 21) www.theclassictour.com.
Charing Cross. E7. Station: Charing Cross. E8.

Now on YouTube

LONDON Visit
PLANNER vi or
guiddeo
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For inspiring and informative advice,
use our video guides to London. We have
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34 | LON DON PLAN N E R

LP JAN SIGHTS.indd 34 03/12/2019 13:22

 Three domes.
Five floors.
And Europe’s
greatest crypt.
See an other
side of St Paul’s.

Climb one dome for the best 360º views in London. Step beneath
another to experience the unforgettable. Enrich your visit with an
acclaimed multimedia guide, available in nine languages.

www.stpauls.co.uk

LP ST PAULS CATHEDRAL.indd 1 28/11/2019 12:04

 Sightseeing
Glow in the dark
Neil Simpson, Sightseeing Editor
National suit magnet Canary Wharf is often
accused of being grey and dull – it is a major
London banking hub, after all – which makes
its Winter Lights festival (16-25 Jan) even
more special. Thanks to the area’s blank
canvas of skyscrapers and uniform roadways,
it’s a thrill to see it decorated with more than
EVAN EVANS
The oldest and largest sightseeing company
in London has been accompanying visitors on
city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930.
Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and
Stratford-upon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath,
as well as all the London sights. Please check
for times and prices. Departure points vary.
T: 020-7950 1777. www.evanevanstours.com.
GOLDEN TOURS
From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the
London expert offers quality tour experiences
from the capital to popular locations such as
Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton.
Check for times and prices. Departure points
vary. T: 020-7630 2039. www.goldentours.com.
GOLDEN TOURS BIKE TOURS
Embark on a tour of the capital on a standard
or electric bike. Wide variety of tour themes.
Check for prices. 11a Charing Cross Rd, WC2H
0EP. T: 020-7341 6255. www.goldentours.com.
Station: Leicester Square. E8.
GOLDEN TOURS OPEN-TOP BUS TOURS
See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The
Essential Tour includes an English-speaking
guide who will describe the sights, or there are
multilingual audio commentary tours. Three-
hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets.
Check for prices. Departure points vary.
T: 020-7630 2039. www.goldentours.com.
36 | LON DON PLAN N E R
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25 light installations. From spinning space-age
prisms to a forest of twinkling drapes, they
give you a great reason to visit the Docklands.
Canary Wharf’s abundance of waterways
means that its stunning reflections are unique
compared to London’s other light festivals.
www.canarywharf.com
JACK THE RIPPER TOUR
Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London
Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour
walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the
infamous serial killer. Numbers are limited in
order to give participants a better experience.
Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. Exit 4,
Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443.
www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Off map.
LONDON WALKS
London’s oldest walking tour company offers
more than 300 walks. Each takes around two
hours, departure points vary and there’s no need
to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter
and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes
around London’s ‘villages’, including Kensington
and Hampstead. Adult £10; child free when
accompanied by an adult. Departure points vary.
T: 020-7624 3978. www.walks.com.
LONGBOW TOURS
Dedicated to offering a premier sightseeing
experience for smaller groups of up to 10,
WINTER LIGHTS © MATT ALEXANDER
Longbow’s tours primarily focus on the city’s
historical side, from medieval to World War II-
era London. There is also the three-hour
Photography Tour, on which you’ll learn to
better capture London’s most photogenic
places. Tours daily. Group tours from £25
per person; smaller groups from £40.
Departure points vary. T: 020-7869 5190.
www.longbowtours.com.
03/12/2019 13:25
 rmg.co.uk

Only 8 minutes
from London Bridge

Unmissable
Visit Cutty Sark and discover the dramatic
history of the fastest ship of its time.

Royal Museums Greenwich

National Maritime Museum | Royal Observatory | Cutty Sark | The Queen’s House

LP RMG.indd 1 04/12/2019 12:00

 Sightseeing
ORIGINAL LONDON SIGHTSEEING WALK
The 90-minute Changing the Guard walk
provides amazing views of the famous
ceremony. It departs daily at 10am from the
Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar
Square on Cockspur Street. £10 per walk, or
free with an Original London Sightseeing
Tour ticket. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL.
T: 020-8877 1722. www.theoriginaltour.com.
Station: Charing Cross. E7.
THE ORIGINAL TOUR
With more than 65 years’ experience, these live
and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take
you to the attractions. 24-hour adult £34, child
£16; 48-hour adult £44, child £21. 17-19 Cockspur
St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. www.theoriginal
tour.com. Station: Charing Cross. E7.
ROYAL ALBERT HALL TOURS
Take the one-hour tour of this Victorian concert
hall, or for a limited time try the Behind-the-
Scenes Tour (Jan-Feb). Tours daily 10am-4pm.
Adult from £14.50; child from £7.50. Kensington
Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. www.royal
alberthall.com. Station: South Kensington. F4.
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LP JAN SIGHTS.indd 38
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE TOURS
One of the world’s leading opera and ballet
venues. Check for tour themes and prices. Bow
St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. www.roh.org.
uk/tours. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
SEE LONDON BY NIGHT TOUR
Atmospheric bus tours around the city from
outside The Ritz hotel on Piccadilly. Daily 7.30pm
& 9.20pm. Adult £21; child £12. 150 Piccadilly,
W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. www.seelondonby
night.com. Station: Green Park. E6.
SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE
Reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe theatre
plus the candlelit Sam Wanamaker Playhouse.
Check for times and prices. 21 New Globe Walk,
SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. www.shakespeares
globe.com. Station: Blackfriars. E10.
THE STEAM DREAMS RAIL CO
Take a memorable trip with this fleet of restored
steam trains, such as the century-old Flying
Scotsman, including day trips from central
London. Departure points vary. T: 01483-209
888. www.steamdreams.co.uk.
03/12/2019 13:26
 Book the best culinary experience
near you today

LP FOOD SOCIAL.indd 1 03/12/2019 11:22

 Sightseeing
OUT OF TOWN
HAMPTON COURT PALACE
Once the favourite royal residence of King
Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old
maze is set in 60 acres of parkland by the river.
Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £23.70; child £11.90.
Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU.
T: 0844-482 7777. www.hrp.org.uk. Station:
Waterloo to Hampton Court. Off map.
PALACE OF HOLYROODHOUSE
The Queen’s official residence in Scotland
stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile.
Daily 9.30am-4.30pm. Adult £16.50; child
£9.50. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh,
EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. www.rct.uk/
palaceofholyroodhouse. Station: Edinburgh
Waverley. Off map.
STONEHENGE
The world’s most famous stone circle is more
than 5,000 years old. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult
£21.10; child £12.70. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4
7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. www.english-heritage.
org.uk. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus
or taxi. Off map.
WARWICK CASTLE
Built in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the
Great, then enhanced by William the Conqueror
in 1068, this castle is now a family-friendly
experience with costumed guides and gardens
designed by ‘Capability’ Brown. Open daily,
subject to weather; please check for times.
To 5 Jan: Ice Rink. The castle
hosts an outdoor rink for the first time; from £13.
Castle adult £20, child £18; castle & dungeon
adult £24, child £21. Advance booking (at least
five days) castle adult or child £14; castle &
dungeon £17. Warwick, Warwickshire, CV34 6AH.
T: 0871-265 2000. www.warwick-castle.com.
Station: Warwick. Off map.
WINDSOR CASTLE
The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s
oldest inhabited castle. Changing the Guard
alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 10am-
4.15pm; closed 6-10 Jan; State Apartments
closed 11-17 Jan. Adult £23.50; child £12.20.
Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304
www.rct.uk/windsorcastle. Station: Waterloo
to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton
Riverside. Off map.

J ACK THE RIPPER TOU R

A WALK WORTH INVESTIGATING
“...this is an eerie, historical site... and, without a single
prop, Richard Jones succeeds in conjuring more potent
memories out of the area than from a neighbourhood
full of palaces...” The Sunday Times

SEE IT ONLINE BEFORE YOU BOOK

You can follow a step by step guide to our route, read the full Jack
the Ripper story and watch videos on our website BEFORE you
take the walk:

www.rippertour.com
On our walk we show you original Victorian photographs of the
streets through which you are walking as they were in 1888.

We are the only Jack the Ripper Walk to limit the number of
participants so booking is essential.

TO BOOK YOUR PLACE PLEASE VISIT OUR WEBSITE

WWW.RIPPERTOUR.COM or TEL: 020 8530 8443

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 Dr Johnson’s House

London’s Theatre of the East

A new exhibition exploring the historical connections
of the Middle East and North Africa and London, via
the lens of Dr Johnson’s 1749 play, Irene, organised in
collaboration with the Arab British Centre.

Open 8th November 2019 – 14 Feb 2020

Free with standard admission charge

17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE

020 7353 3745
www.drjohnsonshouse.org
Ad 57mm x 91mm April 2018.qxp_Layout 1 05/04/20

See
By Night

London looks amazing,

beautifully lit up at night

Departing daily from Green Park

bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30 and 21:20
Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

LONDON Adult - £21, Child - £12

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

WALKS
®

Private tours available for groups day or night

Over 100 walks every week

london@walks.com
020 7624 3978
www.walks.com www.seelondonbynight.com

JAN UARY 2020 | 41

LP JAN SIGHTS.indd 41 03/12/2019 13:30

 Museums & Galleries

SHAKESPEARE PORTRAIT © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY LONDON; ROSETTA STONE © BRITISH MUSEUM;
NELSON’S TRAFALGAR COAT © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, LONDON; DINO SNORES © TRUSTEES
Portrait of
Shakespeare

OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

FAQ
IAL
SPECently
Frequ tions What are the
must-see artefacts?
es
asked qu ed by Above: Rosetta Stone
answer ts Below right: Nelson’s
exper
Trafalgar coat

P
aris has the Mona Lisa, the statue of David Museum in Greenwich
stands in Florence and Barcelona is home to (p. 44). This is the coat
Gaudí’s Park Güell. So, what would London’s that the legendary military
entry on this list of cultural heavyweights be? leader was wearing when
First and foremost, the darling of London’s he was fatally wounded
museum scene is surely the Rosetta Stone at during the Battle of
The British Museum (p. 43). Isn’t that a learn-a- Trafalgar in 1805; it’s
foreign-language service? Yes, but it’s named after even got the bullet hole
this 2,200-year-old chunk of rock, which was in the coat’s left shoulder.
unearthed in Egypt by the French in 1799, before My personal favourite
being seized for Britain three years later. hangs in the National Portrait
The Rosetta Stone is carved with a decree Gallery (p. 46). Did you know
written three times, in different alphabets: that there is only one known
hieroglyphics, demotic (ancient Egyptian) existing portrait of William
and ancient Greek. It was the study of these Shakespeare painted from
translations that enabled experts to finally life? I know: it’s hard to believe.
crack the Egyptians’ hieroglyphic code. Now I like the painting as it’s small,
you know where the Indiana Jones and Tomb unglamorous and nothing like
Raider writers got their ideas from. Join the representations of the Bard
museum’s free, 20-minute Spotlight tour that you’re used to seeing. It
(Room 1; Fri 5pm & 5.30pm) to find out more. makes you wonder where all the
London’s uniquely British treasure is Nelson’s other depictions came from.
Trafalgar coat at the National Maritime – Neil Simpson

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 INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44.
Reductions may be available online. Many venues
offer free admission, but charge for exhibitions.
Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates
for our map (p. 90)

MUSEUMS LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM

SHAKESPEARE PORTRAIT © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY LONDON; ROSETTA STONE © BRITISH MUSEUM;

BANK OF ENGLAND MUSEUM The story of the city’s transport

The story of the bank from its foundation system, with vintage vehicles and artwork. Daily
NELSON’S TRAFALGAR COAT © NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM, LONDON; DINO SNORES © TRUSTEES

in 1694. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Admission free. 10am-6pm. Adult £18; child free. Covent Garden
Bartholomew Lane, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-3461 5545. Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. www.lt
www.bankofengland.co.uk. Station: Bank. D10. museum.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8.

BODY WORLDS MUSEUM OF FREEMASONRY

More than 200 exhibits use the latest
plastination technology to demonstrate how
human bodies operate. Daily; check for times
and prices. London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus,
W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. www.bodyworlds.
co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
THE BRITISH MUSEUM
See permanent displays and treasures (p. 42).
To 26 Jan: Inspired by the East.
Major exhibition in conjunction with the Islamic
Arts Museum Malaysia. Daily, check for times
OF THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
Discover the history of the Freemasons.
To 11 Jan: William Perfect.
Discover the story of the 18th-century doctor,
Night at the museum
We’d love to spend the night at a slumber
party inside the Natural History Museum
– and we’re adults. The museum’s canny
crew clearly feels the same, so they’ve
devised Dino Snores for Grown-ups

and prices. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020- (24 Jan; p. 44). Expect dinner, a pub quiz,
7323 8299. www.britishmuseum.org. Station: a movie marathon and more. If your little
Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square. D7/8. people feel left out, there’s Dino Snores
for Kids, too (11 Jan). Book early!
CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS
Explore the fortified secret bunker and the
Cabinet War Rooms, where Winston Churchill
worked during World War II. Daily 9.30am-6pm.
Adult £22; child £11. Clive Steps, King Charles
St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. www.iwm.
org.uk. Station: Westminster. F7.

THE DESIGN MUSEUM

Leading museum of contemporary design and
architecture. To 23 Feb: Moving to Mars. Exploring
humanity’s next frontier. Daily; check for times
and prices. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG.
T: 020-3862 5900. www.designmuseum.org.
Station: High Street Kensington. Off map.

IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM

Powerful displays on global conflicts including
World War I and the Holocaust Galleries.
Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. Lambeth Rd,
SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. www.iwm.org.uk.
Station: Lambeth North. F9.

LEIGHTON HOUSE MUSEUM

The former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton
displays his work, plus the Arab Hall. Sat-Sun
10am-5.30pm. Adult £9; child free. 12 Holland
Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316.
www.rbkc.gov.uk. Station:
Kensington Olympia. Off map.

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 Museums & Galleries
Mushroom magic
Neil Simpson,
Museums & Galleries Editor

Somerset House welcomes

fungi with open arms this
winter and it’s nothing to do
with damp issues. The Strand’s
former royal palace showcases
Mushrooms: The Art, Design
and Future of Fungi (from 31 Jan)
– a varied gathering of paintings,
fashion tech, experimental video,
furniture and more. It aims to explain
the humble mushroom, revealing
its medicinal power and potential
to help humanity rebalance its
relationship with the natural world.
www.somersethouse.org.uk

poet and actor. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM

free. Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. The world’s largest maritime museum with iconic
T: 020-7395 9257. www.museumfreemasonry. naval exhibits including Nelson’s Trafalgar coat
org.uk. Station: Holborn. D8. (p. 42) and great British art. Daily 10am-5pm.
Admission free; charges for exhibitions. Romney

MUSEUM OF LONDON
The world’s largest urban history museum, with
nine galleries depicting the city’s history back
to Roman times. To 19 Apr: The Clash: London
Calling. Celebrating the legendary album and
band. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges
for special exhibitions. 150 London Wall, EC2Y
5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. www.museumoflondon.
org.uk. Station: Barbican. D10.
MUSHROOM MOTIF COURTESY OF ALEX MORRISON; COCHLEA BRICK TUFT COURTESY OF HAMISH PEARCH
Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. www.rmg.co.uk.
Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark. Map inset.
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
Astounding collections for all ages,
ranging from dinosaurs and fossils to a huge
blue whale skeleton (p. 43). Daily 10am-5.50pm.
Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.
Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000.
www.nhm.ac.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4.
IMAGES © THE ROYAL BOROUGH OF KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

MUSEUM OF LONDON DOCKLANDS

The history of life, trade and culture along the
River Thames from the 1600s to the present day.
Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for
special exhibitions. No. 1 Warehouse, West India
Quay, Hertsmere Rd, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844.
www.museumoflondon.org.uk. Station: West
India Quay. Off map.
NATIONAL ARMY MUSEUM
Interactive displays and exhibitions depicting
soldiers’ lives from Tudor times until today,
including the Boer War and recent conflicts in
Kosovo. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Admission free;
charges for some exhibitions. Royal Hospital Rd,
SW3 4HT. T: 020-7730 0717. www.nam.ac.uk.
Station: Sloane Square. Off map.
THE POSTAL MUSEUM
Closed to 12 Jan. Fascinating exhibits
exploring postal history, including old post boxes,
delivery bikes and uniforms, plus the Mail Rail
train which was recently uncovered. Daily
10am-5pm. Adult £17; child £10. 15-20 Phoenix
Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. www.postal
museum.org. Station: Russell Square. C8.
QUEEN’S HOUSE
Royal villa in Greenwich designed by Inigo
Jones, with spectacular art, architecture and
royal history. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free;
charge for guided tour. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF.
T: 020-8858 4422. www.rmg.co.uk. Station:
Cutty Sark. Map inset.

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 SCIENCE MUSEUM
Huge museum dedicated
to science, technology and medical
achievements. Exhibits include a Red
Arrows 3D flight simulator and there’s an
IMAX theatre showing 3D science films.
Daily; check for times. Admission free;
charges for special exhibitions. Exhibition
Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333-241 4000. www.science
museum.org.uk. Station: South Kensington. F4.
TWININGS MUSEUM
The flagship store of Twinings the tea maker
dates back to 1706, and has a mini exhibition
reflecting the company’s 300-year history,
including Queen Victoria’s Royal Warrant
written in 1837. Daily, check for times. Admission
free. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511.
www.twinings.co.uk. Station: Temple. D9.
V&A MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD
Charming museum with a collection of
childhood objects dating back to the 16th century.
Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. Cambridge
Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. www.vam.
ac.uk/moc. Station: Bethnal Green. Off map.
THE VAULT
Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault
is now home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia.
Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. Hard
Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ.
T: 020-7514 1700. www.hardrock.com. Station:
Hyde Park Corner. E6.
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM
The V&A’s glorious collection of fine and applied
arts spanning many centuries. To 16 Feb: Mary
Quant. Progressive fashions from the English
designer who inspired a generation. Sat-Thur
10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free;
charges for special exhibitions. Cromwell Rd,
SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. www.vam.ac.uk.
Station: South Kensington. F4/5.
GALLERIES
BARBICAN ART GALLERY
Multi-arts venue with several galleries.
To 19 Jan: Into the Night:
Cabarets & Clubs in Modern Art. Modern art
inspired by nightlife. Check for times and prices.
Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638
4141. www.barbican.org.uk. Station: Barbican. D10.

18 Stafford Terrace
MUSHROOM MOTIF COURTESY OF ALEX MORRISON; COCHLEA BRICK TUFT COURESY OF HAMISH PEARCH

a unique insight
Walking through the doors of this
19th-century house feels like stepping
back in time, as the interior is perfectly
preserved. The house is an insight into
the life of Edward Linley Sambourne,
IMAGES © THE ROYAL BOROUGH OF KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

a cartoonist from the satirical magazine

Punch, who lived here with his wife
Marion, two children and servants.
The Sambournes married in 1874 and,
thanks to Marion’s stockbroker father,
bought the home for £2,000.
The cartoonist had a life-long passion
for drawing and excelled in grotesque
and fanciful caricatures – not surprisingly,
his skills were perfect for Punch.
Explore the house with a costumed
guide or on a self-guided tour, and admire
Japanese, Middle Eastern and Chinese
furniture, mirrors and tiles, as well as 1,000
of Edward’s photographs and cartoons. It’s
as if the Sambourne family are still here.

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 Museums & Galleries
GUILDHALL ART GALLERY
Paintings collected by the City of London since
the 17th century, plus the Roman Amphitheatre
(free entry with gallery ticket). Check for times
and tours. Admission free; charges for special
exhibitions. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St,
EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. www.cityof
london.gov.uk. Station: St Paul’s/Bank. D10.
HAYWARD GALLERY
Redeveloped gallery with pyramid skylights.
To 26 Jan: Bridget Riley. The
British artist’s perceptual paintings, including
black-and-white works from the 1960s. Check
for times. Adult £18; child free. Southbank Centre,
Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-3879 9555.
www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Station: Waterloo. E8.
THE NATIONAL GALLERY
One of the world’s greatest galleries with
an immense collection of European art.
To 12 Jan: Leonardo: Experience
a Masterpiece. Discover the inner workings of da
Vinci’s The Virgin of the Rocks. To 26 Jan:
Gauguin Portraits. The first-ever exhibition
devoted to the French artist’s portraits. Sat-Thur
10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free;
charges for special exhibitions. Trafalgar Square,
WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. www.national
gallery.org.uk. Station: Charing Cross. E7.
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LP JAN M&G.indd 46
NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
Depicting famous British people in paintings,
drawings and photographs (p. 42). To 16 Feb:
Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize 2020.
Contemporary portrait photography from around
the world. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm.
Admission free; charges for special exhibitions.
St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463.
www.npg.org.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E7.
THE PHOTOGRAPHERS’ GALLERY
London’s largest gallery devoted to photography.
To 9 Feb: Shot in Soho. Profiling this unique,
Back to the drawing board
The Royal Academy of Arts is elevating
parchment to superstar status with Picasso
and Paper (from 25 Jan; p. 48). More than
300 examples of Picasso’s works on paper
PICASSO AND PAPER © RMN-GRAND PALAIS (MUSÉE NATIONAL PICASSO-PARIS)/ADRIEN DIDIERJEAN © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS 2019
have been gathered together, from watercolours
and pastel pieces to collages and even torn and
burnt sculptures. The exhibition reassesses
what you might have previously thought of
the Spanish artist’s creative output; among
the works here is a 4.5m-long collage of torn
paper scraps. Suddenly, you can see how he
may have arrived at the distinctive sharp lines
and flat layering of his most famous paintings.
03/12/2019 13:48
LP V&A.indd 1 28/11/2019 12:07
 Museums & Galleries
rebellious and exciting neighbourhood in
the West End. Check for times and prices.
16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087
9300. www.thephotographersgallery.
org.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY

Smart gallery adjoining Buckingham
Palace. To 3 May: George IV: Art &
Spectacle. Discover the king and his
collection (p. 18). Daily 10am-5.30pm.
Adult £13.50; child £6.70. Buckingham
Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301.
www.rct.uk. Station: Green Park/Victoria. F7.

ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS

Attractive 18th-century building with RA works.
From 25 Jan: Picasso and Paper. Discover
another side to Picasso’s body of work (p. 46).
To 26 Jan: Lucian Freud:
The Self-portraits. Works by the British artist.
Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission
free; charges for special exhibitions. 6 Burlington
Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. www.royal
academy.org.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
SAATCHI GALLERY
Contemporary art in a huge, renovated Georgian
building. To 3 May: Tutankhamun: Treasures of
the Golden Pharaoh. See artefacts from the ancient
king’s tomb. Check for times. Adult from £26.95;
child from £18.15. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd,
SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. www.saatchi-
gallery.co.uk. Station: Sloane Square. G5.
Behind bars
This year marks 400 years since the Mayflower
set sail from Plymouth for America, but did you
know that London’s Bankside district was a key
battleground in the Pilgrims’ struggle? Catholic
Queen Elizabeth I threw Protestant Christians
into Clink Street prison, where the beginnings
of the Separatist English church emerged.
The site is now The Clink Prison Museum,
which has a new display telling the story of
these influential prisoners. Learn about their
lives – then discover the gruesome reality of
being locked inside. www.clink.co.uk

SERPENTINE GALLERY TATE MODERN

Modern and contemporary exhibitions.
To 2 Feb: Albert Oehlen. The veteran German
painter showcases his energetic and abstract
canvases. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free.
Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075.
See world-class, international modern art
in the transformed Bankside Power Station.
To 15 Mar: Dora Maar. Discover the work of
this photographer and painter known for her
surrealist 20th-century works. To 5 Apr: Kara
MAYFLOWER © THE CLINK PRISON MUSEUM; ICON © ISTOCK

www.serpentinegalleries.org. Station: South
Kensington. E4.
TATE BRITAIN
The nation’s leading collection of British
art from 1500 to today. To 2 Feb:
William Blake. Works by the English
painter and poet. To 3 May: Steve
McQueen Year 3. The film director’s
photographs of Year 3 primary-school
classes in London. Daily 10am-6pm.
Admission free; charges for special
exhibitions. Millbank, SW1P 4RG.
T: 020-7887 8888. www.tate.org.uk.
Station: Pimlico. G8.
Walker. The latest artist to take over the gallery’s
huge Turbine Hall with her powerful installation.
Daily, check for times. Admission free; charges
for special exhibitions. Bankside, SE1 9TG.
T: 020-7887 8888. www.tate.org.uk. Station:
Southwark. E9.
WHITECHAPEL GALLERY
Influential East End gallery,
During World showcasing contemporary art.
War II, The Tue-Sun; check for times. Admission
National Gallery’s free; charges for special exhibitions.
paintings were
evacuated 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX.
to Wales T: 020-7522 7888. www.whitechapel.org.
Station: Aldgate East. Off map.

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 European Museum
of the Year 2018
High Street Kensington

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 VISIT OUR NEW ONLINE GUIDE FOR TRAV

LONDONPLA
Your friend in the city

THINGS TO DO | FOOD AND DRINK | TRAVEL ESSENTIALS | FIRST VIS

LP DPS WEB FILLER AD.indd 8 28/11/2019 12:14

TRAVEL TIPS, ITINERARIES AND TICKETS

LANNER.COM

FIRST VISIT | ITINERARIES | ASK THE EXPERT | TICKETS AND OFFERS

LP DPS WEB FILLER AD.indd 9 28/11/2019 12:15

 Entertainment EA
T
Th hea
ea T tr
tI e l
TI rCeKE
£1 £CK1E0TS O lToS tOtNeLotter
0 - £NLY Yry y
CH - £2 20

How can I see a sold-out show?

FAQ
L
SPECIAtly
Frequen tions
es
asked qu ed by
answer ts If you’re struggling to bag tickets
exper
to a theatre show and don’t fancy
queuing in the rain for bargain tickets, then sign
up to a theatre lottery system.
Many of London’s biggest shows such as
Hamilton and Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
hold lotteries, giving you the chance to buy some
of the best seats in the stalls – which normally
cost more than £100 – for £10 to £20.
Lotteries are free to enter; you just fill in a form on
the show’s website or app. There’s no obligation to
buy the seats if you’re lucky enough to win them, so
enter multiple lotteries to increase your chance of
seeing a show on the cheap. The number of lottery
tickets available depends on the performance and
winners are notified by email.
If you want to see the hip-hop musical
Hamilton at Victoria
Palace Theatre but can’t
afford a £200 stalls ticket,
then you can apply for up
to two £10 tickets (p. 53).
The lottery opens at 4pm,
closes at 2pm the following
day, then an hour later winners
PE
RS
H
0
OW
are selected at random – collect
your ticket on the day.
JK Rowling fans who are desperate to see
both parts of Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
at the Palace Theatre could buy stall seats for
£135 – or benefit from Friday Forty, when 40
£40 tickets are released via the ticket agent
(www.todaytix.com; £20 per part). Enter between
12.01am on Monday and 1pm on Friday to attend
the following week. Winners are notified between
1pm and 5pm on Friday.
Download the TodayTix app and enter its free
lotteries, which run from midnight on the day of
the show you hope to see; enter your name and how
many tickets you’d like. Share your lottery entry
once on Twitter or Facebook to double your chance
of winning, or twice to triple your chance. Winners
are picked at random and notified by email. Act fast
– you’ll have 30 to 60 minutes to claim your prize.
If there’s a particular show you want to see, set an
alert and you’ll receive a reminder that
the show’s lottery has opened. Even if
your trip is a short one, who knows,
you may get beginner’s luck.
– Sarah Riches

HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD © MANUEL HARLAN; HAMILTON © HELEN MAYBANKS

Harry Potter and

the Cursed Child
Hamilton
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MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
& JULIET
An alternative take on Romeo and Juliet, with
songs by Britney Spears and Backstreet Boys.
Check for times. Tickets £22.50-£75. Shaftesbury
Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Ave, WC2H 8DP.
T: 020-7379 5399. www.shaftesburytheatre.com.
Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn. D8.
AMÉLIE THE MUSICAL
Heart-warming tale about a shy waitress. Please
check for times. Tickets £19.50-£65. The Other
Palace, 12 Palace St, SW1E 5JA. T: 020-7087 7900.
www.ameliethemusical.com. Station: Victoria. F7.
AS YOU LIKE IT
To 18 Jan: A playful take
on William Shakespeare’s romantic comedy.
1.15pm & 7.15pm. Tickets £10-£59.50. Barbican
Theatre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891.
www.barbican.org.uk. Station: Barbican. C10.
THE BOOK OF MORMON
This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s
South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless
missionaries. Check for times. Tickets £29.75-£100.
Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS.
T: 0844-482 5110. www.bookofmormonlondon.com.
Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus. E7.
HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD © MANUEL HARLAN; HAMILTON © HELEN MAYBANKS
COME FROM AWAY
A tight-knit community on a Canadian island
rallies round to host 7,000 stranded passengers
after the 9/11 attacks. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed &
Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24-£108. Phoenix Theatre,
110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316
1082. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Station:
Tottenham Court Road. D7.
CURTAINS
To 11 Jan: When a Broadway star
is found murdered on stage, the cast and crew are
all suspects in this hilarious comedy. Check for
times and prices. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing
Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120.
www.delfont mackintosh.co.uk. Station: Leicester
Square. E7.
DEAR EVAN HANSEN
This touching, award-winning tale follows an
anxious teenage boy. Check for times and prices.
Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU.
T: 0844-482 5140. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk.
Station: Leicester Square. E8.
LP JAN ENTS.indd 53
INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44.
Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central
London Map (p. 90). Please check for venue’s
complete listings
EVERYBODY’S TALKING ABOUT JAMIE
The story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he
overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat
7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85.
Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES.
T: 0330-333 4809. www.everybodystalking
aboutjamie.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
GIRL FROM THE NORTH COUNTRY
Set in America during the Great Depression,
this drama features music by Bob Dylan.
Check for times and prices. Gielgud Theatre,
Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482
5130. www.girlfromthenorthcountry.london.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
GOLDILOCKS AND THE THREE BEARS
To 12 Jan: Panto starring
Paul O’Grady and Julian Clary. Check for
times and prices. London Palladium, Argyll
St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. www.london-
palladium.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.
HAMILTON
This hip-hop musical is based on the story
of America’s founding father, Alexander
Hamilton (p. 52). Check for times and prices.
Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E
5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. www.hamiltonthe
musical.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.
LES MISÉRABLES
Long-running musical, adapted from Victor
Hugo’s novel, set in post-revolutionary
France. Check for times. Tickets £42.25-
£177.25. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Ave,
W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. www.lesmis.
com. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly
Circus. D8.
THE LION KING
Superb adaptation of the popular
Disney film with ingenious costumes and
inventive puppetry. Check for times. Tickets
£23-£200. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St,
WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. www.thelion
king.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8.
LUZIA
From 12 Jan: Cirque du Soleil’s
Mexico-themed show (p. 56). Check for times
and prices. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore,
SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. www.royalalbert
hall.com. Station: South Kensington. F4.
JAN UARY 2020 | 53
03/12/2019 13:52
 Entertainment
Entertainment
MAMMA MIA! THE MUSICAL
A tribute to the hits of ABBA. Check for times.
Tickets from £27.50. Novello Theatre, Aldwych,
WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. www.mamma-
mia.com. Station: Covent Garden. E8.
MARY POPPINS
Musical about a London nanny with
magic powers. Check for times and prices.
Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D
4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. www.delfontmackintosh.
co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.
MATILDA THE MUSICAL
Based on Roald Dahl’s book about a girl
with magic powers. Check for times. Tickets
£20-£122.50. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham
St, WC2H 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. www.matilda inspired by ancient Chinese history and culture.
themusical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
9 TO 5 THE MUSICAL
THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA
A mysterious masked man haunts the Paris
Opera House in this long-running Gothic drama.
Check for times. Tickets £25-£175. Her Majesty’s
Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412
2707. www.thephantomoftheopera.com.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
SCHOOL OF ROCK: THE MUSICAL
A musician gets a job as a music teacher.
Check for times. Tickets £15-£150. Gillian Lynne
Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-
7452 3000. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com.
Station: Covent Garden. D8.
SHEN YUN
17-26 Jan: Incredible performance
Check for times and prices. Eventim Apollo,
45 Queen Caroline St, W6 9QH. T: 0844-249 1000.
www.eventim.co.uk. Station: Hammersmith. Off map.

VAULT FESTIVAL © THE VAULTS

Fun Dolly Parton musical about women who seek
revenge on their sexist boss. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed THRILLER LIVE
& Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£125. Savoy Theatre, Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael
Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. www.9to5 Jackson’s career. Check for times and prices.
themusical.co.uk. Station: Covent Garden. E8. Lyric Theatre, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES.
T: 0844-482 9674. www.thrillerlive.com.
ONLY FOOLS AND HORSES: THE MUSICAL Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
Comical musical based on the British sitcom
about a wheeler-dealer. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed &
Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £16.80-£175. Theatre Royal
Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930
8800. www.trh.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.

Beneath the surface

If you want a bold adventure, then head
to Vault Festival at The Vaults under
Waterloo Station (from 28 Jan). Now
in its eighth year, the festival’s 500
shows give upcoming writers
and performers a chance to
showcase their work. Enjoy
original theatre, cabaret and
comedy, plus parties and
immersive experiences;
if 2019’s edition is anything
to go by, you’ll be able to
attend performances in
caravans, horseboxes
and containers, too.
www.thevaults.london

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 ANDREW LLOYD WEBBER’S

T HE BRIL L IA NT ORIG INA L

TM © 1986 RUG Ltd.

AT H E R M AJ E ST Y ’ S T H E AT RE
thephantomoftheopera.com

LP POTO.indd 1 03/12/2019 11:33

 Entertainment
TINA – THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL
Musical based on the life of singer Tina Turner.
Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
£10-£159.50. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych,
WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. www.tina
themusical.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
WAITRESS
Pie-maker Jenna dreams of a way out of her small
town. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
£19.50-£150. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand,
WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. www.waitressthe
musical.co.uk. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
WICKED
The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz
with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular.
Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets
£24.25-£202.75. Apollo Victoria, 17 Wilton Rd,
SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. www.wickedthe
musical.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F7.
PLAYS
THE COMEDY ABOUT A BANK ROBBERY
Six incompetent crooks are desperate to get hold Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. www.atg
of a diamond. Check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. tickets.com. Station: Embankment. E8.
Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB.
T: 0844-815 6131. www.thecomedyaboutabank
robbery.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
COMING CLEAN
From 8 Jan: Tony and Greg’s relationship Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 5AY.
is thrown into jeopardy when Robert walks into T: 0300-333 4813. www.harrypottertheplay.com.
their lives. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm.
56 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN ENTS.indd 56
‘Expect gymnasts
and contortionists’
Sarah Riches, Entertainment Editor
Cirque du Soleil returns to the Royal Albert
Hall with the European premiere of Luzia
(from 12 Jan; p. 53), 30 years after the troupe
first performed in this country. The show is
named after the Spanish for light and rain,
so both elements influence the acts, with
contortionists and trapeze artists spinning
through showers, drenching the stage. Inspired
by Mexico, you’ll hear Latin beats and jaunty
tunes performed on maracas and xylophones,
by mustachioed men clad in tasselled shirts
and cactus costumes. Expect gymnasts,
acrobats and pole dancers, as well as new
acts that have been thrown into the ring.
Please check for prices. Trafalgar Studios,
14 Whitehall, SW1A 2DY. T: 0844-871 7632.
www.atgtickets.com. Station: Charing Cross. E7/8.
CYRANO DE BERGERAC
Edmond Rostand’s 1897 play based on the
real-life Cyrano, a talented nobleman serving
in the French Army. Check for times and
prices. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland
HARRY POTTER AND THE CURSED CHILD
Harry now works for the Ministry of Magic, but
LUZIA © MATT BEARD
his youngest son grapples with the legacy he never
wanted (p. 52). Check for returns and times.
Station: Leicester Square. D7.
03/12/2019 15:05
 ‘A REBORN DREAM
O F A P RO D U C T I O N’
Dominic Cavendish, Daily Telegraph

F O R T H E 2 1 S T C E N T U R Y
Huffington Post
TM © 1986 CMOL

lesmis.com | SONDHEIM THEATRE

A D E L F O N T M A C K I N T O S H T H E AT R E

LP LES MIS.indd 1 03/12/2019 11:26

 Entertainment
THE LION, THE WITCH
AND THE WARDROBE
Four children meet some magical characters.
Please check for times. Tickets £15-£69.50.
Bridge Theatre, 3 Potters Field Park, SE1 2SG.
T: 0333-320 0051. www.bridgetheatre.co.uk.
Station: London Bridge. E11.
MAGIC GOES WRONG
A hapless gang of magicians presents
a charity event, but things soon spiral out of
control. Check for times and prices. Vaudeville
Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333
4814. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Station:
Charing Cross/Covent Garden. E8.
THE MOUSETRAP
A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha
Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Check
for times and prices. St Martin’s Theatre,
West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515.
www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. Station:
Leicester Square. D7.
Word on the street
East and west London collide in
Poet in da Corner, as it returns to
the Royal Court Theatre following its
successful 2018 premiere (from 30 Jan).
Inspired by Dizzee Rascal’s album
Boy in da Corner and written by
Debris Stevenson, it follows
a girl living in a Mormon
household who has
dyslexia and is conflicted
about her sexuality.
But when her friend
SS Vyper gives her
Rascal’s acclaimed
grime album, she
finds her voice. This
coming-of-age tale
combines dance,
spoken word
and music.
www.royalcourt
theatre.com
58 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN ENTS.indd 58
THE PLAY THAT GOES WRONG
Slapstick comedy about a drama society
staging a murder mystery. Please check for times.
Tickets £20-£72. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine
St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. www.theplaythat
goeswrong.com. Station: Covent Garden. D8.
TEENAGE DICK
In this darkly comic take on Shakespeare’s
Richard III, Richard suffers years of torment
at school and plots to become president of
his class. Check for times. Tickets £10-£40.
Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX.
T: 0844-871 7624. www.donmarwarehouse.com.
Station: Covent Garden. D8.
TOUCHING THE VOID
Drama based on Joe Simpson’s memoir about a
climbing expedition that went wrong. Mon-Sat
7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Check for prices. Duke
of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N
4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. www.dukeofyorkstheatre.
co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E8.
WITNESS FOR THE PROSECUTION
Based on Agatha Christie’s legal drama
and staged in a former courtroom. Check
for times. Tickets from £10-£79.50.
County Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 7PB.
T: 0844-815 7141. www.witnesscounty
hall.com. Station: Waterloo. F8.
THE WOMAN IN BLACK
Spooky tale about a lawyer who
visits a house to settle affairs
after a woman’s death. Check
for times. Tickets £21.50-
£52. Fortune, Russell St,
WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871
7626. www.thewomanin
black.com. Station: Covent
Garden. D8.
IMMERSIVE
EXPERIENCES
ALADDIN AND THE
FEAST OF WONDERS
DEBRIS STEVENSON © ALI WRIGHT
To 15 Jan: Panto for
adults with dinner and
wine. Tue-Sun 6.30pm.
Tickets £30-£75. The
Vaults, Leake St, SE1 7NN.
T: 020-7401 9603.
www.thevaults.london.
Station: Waterloo. F8.
03/12/2019 15:16
 ‘BELIEVE
THE HYPE’ N EW YO R K POST

THE MUSICAL
MatildaTheMusical.com
#MatildaPose CAMBRIDGE THEATRE, London, WC2H 9HU

LP MATILDA.indd 1 03/12/2019 11:13

 Entertainment
FAULTY TOWERS:
THE DINING EXPERIENCE
Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy,
based on the cult TV series. Tickets include
a three-course meal. Please check for times.
Tickets £75-£80. Radisson Blu Edwardian,
9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154
4145. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Station:
Tottenham Court Road. D7.
Louder than words
In city-wide venues, from the Barbican
to a barge, the London International
Mime Festival sees an eclectic variety of
productions including Galactik Ensemble’s
contemporary circus, Optraken (pictured).
www.mimelondon.com

JEFF WAYNE’S THE

WAR OF THE WORLDS
Experience the Martian invasion from
HG Wells’ novel The War of the Worlds, which
was reinvented as a musical by Jeff Wayne. The
immersive experience includes virtual-reality
headsets and costumed characters. Check for
times and prices. 56 Leadenhall St, EC3A 2BJ.
www.dotdot.london. Station: Aldgate. D11.

MAMMA MIA! THE PARTY

Actors perform your favourite ABBA songs while
you dine in a Greek taverna. Check for times.
Tickets from £151.20. The O2, Peninsula Square,
SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. www.theo2.co.uk.
Station: North Greenwich. Map inset.

GALACTIK ENSEMBLE’S OPTRAKEN © N MARTINEZ

60 | LON DON PLAN N E R

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 ‘A RAW MUSICAL
TRIUMPH’
THE TIMES

★★★★★
D A I LY T E L E G R A P H

★★★★★ METRO

★★★★★ THE SUN

★★★★★
D A I LY E X P R E S S

★★★★★ D A I LY M A I L

THERE IS ONLY ONE

THE TINA TURNER MUSICAL

TinaTheMusical.com

LP TINA TURNER.indd 1 03/12/2019 10:42

 Entertainment Hot ticket
Ask your concierge to
bag you tickets to see
SECRET CINEMA Madonna at the London
To 23 Feb: Stranger Things. The latest Palladium (from 26 Jan).
spectacular immersive experience is themed The concert celebrates her
around the Netflix TV series. Please check latest album, Madame X,
for times and prices. Secret location. which has a Latin flavour.
www.secretcinema.org. www.lwtheatres.co.uk
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL
BARBICAN
1 Jan: New Year’s Day Prom. 19 Jan: The Art
of Fugue (Bach). Tickets £19.50-£46. Barbican
Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891.
www.barbican.org.uk. Station: Barbican. C10.

CADOGAN HALL
4 Jan: Christmas Cantata. 16 Jan: Music
without Borders. 18 Jan: Celebration of Choral
Music. Tickets £18-£25. 7.30pm. 5 Sloane Terrace,
SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. www.cadogan
hall.com. Station: Sloane Square. G6.

ST MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS CHURCH
Enjoy a programme of lunchtime and evening
concerts. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ.
T: 020-7766 1100. www.smitf.org. Station:
Charing Cross. E8.

LES MISÉRABLES AND THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA © JOHAN PERSSON; THE LION KING © DISNEY; LIGHTS © ISTOCK
MADONNA © STUFISH

FIND YOUR

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 Top to bottom:
The Phantom of the
Opera; The Lion King;
Les Misérables
LES MISÉRABLES AND THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA © JOHAN PERSSON; THE LION KING © DISNEY; LIGHTS © ISTOCK
These veterans of Theatreland have been entertaining audiences for years and
years, so if you’re looking for a legendary London evening, here’s where to start
THE MOUSETRAP St Martin’s Theatre
Agatha Christie, the best-selling novelist of all
time, also wrote the longest-running play in the
world. The Mousetrap opened in 1952 and is a
classic ‘whodunnit’, a murder mystery which will
keep you guessing who committed the crime right
until the very end. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk
LES MISÉRABLES Sondheim Theatre
This epic musical about the French Revolution
opened at the Barbican in 1985, when the press
reviews weren’t very positive. But theatre
super-producer Cameron Mackintosh quickly
turned it into a West End sensation.
Les Misérables is at the Sondheim Theatre
(formerly known as the Queen’s Theatre).
The London production is the longest-
running musical in the world.
www.queenstheatre.co.uk
MADONNA © STUFISH
THE PHANTOM OF THE OPERA
Her Majesty’s Theatre
Andrew Lloyd Webber’s dramatic musical about
tragedy, terror and love opened in London in
LP JAN ENTS.indd 63
1986. The story is set in Paris, where a masked
figure spreads horror across the Opera House.
With a score that is famous across the world,
The Phantom of the Opera has made more
money than any other musical in history.
www.reallyusefultheatres.co.uk
THE WOMAN IN BLACK Fortune Theatre
Another spooky show, this play is based on Susan
Hill’s 1983 novel, which became a West End play
in 1988. The story is about a lawyer who becomes
convinced that a ghostly female figure has put
a curse on his family. It’s a truly scary play.
www.thewomaninblack.com
THE LION KING Lyceum Theatre
No introduction is necessary for Disney’s
long-running West End musical, which came
to London from Broadway in 1999. To bring
the animals of Africa’s Serengeti Plain to the
stage, the show uses puppets, masks, stilts and
elaborate costumes. The Lion King is Disney’s
longest-running musical.
www.thelionking.co.uk
JAN UARY 2020 | 63
04/12/2019 15:21
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London’s major theatre and music venues can be 24 London Palladium ....... A1 40 Savoy ................................ B2
located on the map above using the grid reference 25 Lyceum ............................ B3 41 Shaftesbury ................... A2
RIVER

in the key below. 26 Lyric ................................. B1 42 Shakespeare’s Globe... D

27 Menier Chocolate 43 Soho Theatre ................. B3
Visit London has a secure online booking service Factory ............................ D 44 Sondheim ....................... B1
28 National Theatre .......... C3 45 Theatre Royal
for all major current and forthcoming theatre 29 Noël Coward .................. B2 Drury Lane ..................... A3
productions. 30 Novello ............................ A3 46 Theatre Royal
31 Old Red Lion .................. E Haymarket ..................... B1
To book tickets go to www.visitlondon.com 32 Old Vic ............................. C4 47 Trafalgar Studios ......... C2
33 Palace ............................... A1 48 Vaudeville ...................... B2
Key to Theatres 34 Phoenix ........................... A1 49 Victoria Palace .............. F
35 Piccadilly ........................ B1 50 Waterloo
1 Adelphi ............................ B2 13 Duchess ......................A/B3 36 Playhouse ....................... C2 East Theatre .................. C4
2 Ambassadors ................. A2 14 Duke of York’s ............... B2 37 Prince Edward .............. A1 51 Wyndham’s .................... B2
3 Aldwych .......................... A3 15 Fortune .......................A2/3 38 Prince of Wales ............. B1 52 Young Vic ........................ C4
4 Apollo Theatre .............. B1 16 Garrick ............................ B2 39 St Martin’s ..................... A2
5 Apollo Victoria ............. F 17 Gielgud ............................ A1 Key to Dance, Music and Multi-arts Venues
6 Arts ................................... B2 18 Gillian Lynne ................. A2
7 Barbican Centre ........... G 19 Harold Pinter ................ B1 53 Barbican Hall ................ G 58 St James’s Piccadilly
8 Cambridge ...................... A2 20 Her Majesty’s................. B1 54 London Coliseum ......... B2 church ............................. B1
9 Charing Cross Theatre ..B2 21 King’s Head Theatre ... E 55 Peacock ........................... A3 59 St Martin-in-the-Fields
10 Criterion ......................... B1 22 Leicester Square 56 Ronnie Scott’s ............... A1 church ............................. B2
11 Dominion ....................... A1 Theatre ............................ B1 57 Royal Opera 60 Sadler’s Wells ................ E
12 Donmar Warehouse.... A2 23 Little Angel Theatre .... E House ............................... A2 61 Southbank Centre ........ C3

64 | LON DON PLAN N E R

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 CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD
THE JAZZ CAFE
2-4 Jan: Alexander O’Neal. 9-10 Jan: Being
Bowie by Transatlantic Ensemble. 5 Parkway,
NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. www.thejazzcafe Last minute
london.com. Station: Camden Town. Off map.

RONNIE SCOTT’S JAZZ CLUB

& discount
2-4 Jan: Sarah Jane Morris. 10-11 Jan: Nicola
Conte & Spiritual Galaxy. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. theatre tickets
T: 020-7439 0747. www.ronniescotts.co.uk.
Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.

DANCE
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
To 16 Jan: The Sleeping Beauty.
From 18 Jan: Onegin. Check for times and
prices. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000.
www.roh.org.uk. Station: Covent Garden. D8.

SADLER’S WELLS
To 19 Jan: The Red Shoes.
Choreographed by Matthew Bourne.
From 31 Jan: Sadler’s Wells Sampled.
Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000.
www.sadlerswells.com. Station: Angel. Off map.

OPERA
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
From 10 Jan: La Bohème (Puccini).
Please check for times and prices. Bow St,
WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. www.roh.org.uk.
Station: Covent Garden. D8.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES

OSCAR WILDE’S
THE CANTERVILLE GHOST
To 5 Jan: Wilde’s 1887 comic
novel is brought to life with magic, illusions and
special effects. Check for times. Adult £16-£28;
child £12-£22. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley
St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. www.unicorn
theatre.com. Station: London Bridge. Off map.

THE PAPER DOLLS

To 5 Jan: Adapted from
the picture book by Children’s Laureate Julia
Donaldson, this show comes to life with puppets.
Suitable for three- to four-year-olds. Check for
times and prices. Polka Theatre, 240 Broadway,
SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. www.polka
theatre.com. Station: Wimbledon. Off map.
ENT • MAPS
• EATING • ENTERTAINM
• SHOPPING
SIGHTS • ARTS

MONTHLY GUIDE
THE FREE OFFICIAL NER.COM
JAN 20 • LONDONPLAN
FAQ

FOR MORE PLACES VISIT

SPECIAL
How to get
sold-out tickets
for shows
and
sports

PARTY
JOIN TH
E

Where to watch
New Year’s
the
Day Parade

1
FIND YOUR

29/11/2019
12:17
LONDONPLANNER.COM
LP JAN COVER.indd

JAN UARY 2020 | 65

LP JAN ENTS.indd 65 03/12/2019 15:31

 Sport
FAQ
IAL
SPECently
How can I get tickets to a football match?
Frequ tions
es
asked qu ed by
answer ts
exper
W
e’re a bit spoilt here, with many famous
football clubs and the Premier League
considered to be one of the world’s most
entertaining. Even if you’re a neutral, being
part of a buoyant crowd is a thrilling experience.
So how on earth do you go about getting a ticket?
With such popularity, demand for tickets is
sky-high. Chelsea’s ground, Stamford Bridge, with
a capacity of 42,000, is usually full: ‘Most of our
fixtures sell out to members. Last season, very few
tickets were sold on a general sale basis and the
majority sold out at one ticket per member,’ the club
advises. Whichever tickets are left after that go
on general sale – but you have to act fast.
It’s a similar prospect to get tickets
for Arsenal and Tottenham Hotspur.
If you can splash out, the clubs
offer packages with a match-day
ticket, plus hospitality.
It is easier to get a ticket
for West Ham United, at the
66 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN SPORT.indd 66
Wembley Stadium
WEMBLEY STADIUM © THOMAS LOVELOCK FOR FA; FOOTBALL AND TICKET STUBS © ISTOCK; JUDD TRUMP COURTESY OF DAFABET MASTERS
66,000-capacity London Stadium. Many reach
general sale and you can buy up to four tickets.
‘You’ll need to create an account online,’ the ticket
office says, ‘but you don’t need to be a member
to buy tickets once they are on general sale. This
tends to be several weeks before the fixture date.’
If that’s a tall order, don’t despair – football fans
shouldn’t forget the lower leagues. It’s easier to
snap up a ticket for the terraces of Fulham, QPR,
Charlton and Leyton Orient – and a lot cheaper.
Over the years I’ve watched football matches
at Arsenal (old and new grounds) and, as an
away fan following Bradford City, I’ve been
on the terraces at Chelsea, Wimbledon,
Millwall and Leyton Orient.
Whether the ground is
immense or tiny, Premier
League or League Two, I can
vouch for this city’s football
fanaticism, first-hand.
– Emma Levine
03/12/2019 15:37

ium
WATCH
DARTS
4-12 Jan: BDO Darts World Championships.
Indigo at The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX.
T: 0844-856 0202. www.theo2.co.uk. Station:
North Greenwich. Map inset.
HORSE RACING
19 Jan: Clarence House Raceday. High St, Ascot,
Berkshire, SL5 7JX. T: 0844-346 3000. www.ascot.
co.uk. Station: London Waterloo to Ascot. Off map.
FOOTBALL
Premier League fixtures (subject to change):
1 Jan: Arsenal vs Manchester United. 18 Jan:
Arsenal vs Sheffield United. Emirates Stadium,
see ‘Arsenal Stadium Tour’ for address.
11 Jan: Chelsea vs Burnley. 21 Jan: Chelsea
WEMBLEY STADIUM © THOMAS LOVELOCK FOR FA; FOOTBALL AND TICKET STUBS © ISTOCK; JUDD TRUMP COURTESY OF DAFABET MASTERS
vs Arsenal. Stamford Bridge, see ‘Chelsea FC
Stadium Tour’ for address.
11 Jan: Tottenham Hotspur vs Liverpool.
22 Jan: Tottenham Hotspur vs Norwich.
Tottenham Hotspur Stadium, see ‘Tottenham
Hotspur Stadium Tour’ for address.
1 Jan: West Ham vs Bournemouth. 18 Jan:
West Ham vs Everton. London Stadium, Queen
Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 020-8548
2748. www.whufc.com. Off map.
TOURS & MUSEUMS
ARSENAL STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM
Self-guided audio tours. Check for times,
prices and Legends tours. Drayton Park, N5 1BU.
T: 020-7619 5000. www.arsenal.com. Station:
Holloway Road/Arsenal/Finsbury Park. Off map.
CHELSEA FC STADIUM TOUR & MUSEUM
Self-guided tour. Please check for times and
prices. Stamford Bridge, Fulham Rd, SW6 1HS.
T: 0371-811 1955. www.chelseafc.com. Station:
Fulham Broadway. Off map.
LORD’S TOUR & MCC MUSEUM
Guided cricket tour. Check for dates and times.
St John’s Wood Rd, NW8 8QN. T: 020-7616 8595.
www.lords.org. Station: St John’s Wood. C4.
KIA OVAL GROUND TOURS
Tour the famous cricket ground. Check for times.
Adult £15; child £5. Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-
3946 0100. www.kiaoval.com. Station: Oval. Off map.
LP JAN SPORT.indd 67
INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44.
Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates
for our Central London map (p. 90). For more events
and information, see www.visitlondon.com/events
TOTTENHAM HOTSPUR STADIUM TOUR
See the new stadium. Check for times. Adult
£30; child £15; under-fives free. www.tottenham
hotspur.com/tours. 782 High Rd, N17 0BX.
T: 020-3929 1882. Station: Seven Sisters. Off map.
THE WEMBLEY STADIUM TOUR
Relive sporting history at this world-famous
stadium. Check for times and prices. Olympic
Way, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. www.wembley
stadium.com. Station: Wembley Park. Off map.
WORLD RUGBY MUSEUM &
TWICKENHAM STADIUM TOUR
The world’s largest rugby stadium. Check for
times and prices. Whitton Rd, Twickenham,
TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. www.worldrugby
museum.com. Station: Twickenham. Off map.
WIMBLEDON LAWN TENNIS
MUSEUM & TOUR
The tour includes Centre Court. Check for times
and prices. All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet
Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131.
www.wimbledon.com. Station: Southfields. Off map.
Pot luck
Emma Levine, Sport Editor
The top 16 snooker stars go head-to-head at
Alexandra Palace for the Dafabet Masters
(12-19 Jan). World number one Judd Trump from
England (above) is the current Masters champion,
but hot on his heels is his compatriot Ronnie
O’Sullivan – a player who loves grabbing the
headlines for his outspoken views on the game.
He’s a favourite at ‘Ally Pally’, so you can bet that
most of the 1,962 crowd will cheer on ‘The Rocket’.
www.worldsnooker.com
JAN UARY 2020 | 67
03/12/2019 15:41
 Shopping
FAQ
IAL
SPECen
How do I get tax back?
tly
Frequ tions
es
asked qu ed by
answer ts
exper
L
ondon is where the world comes to dress
to impress and from high-end to high
street, this city does retail therapy like
no other. For visitors from outside the
EU, there’s the added bonus of being able to
shop tax-free by claiming back the 20 per cent
VAT (value-added tax) levied on certain items
– aka the VAT Retail Export Scheme. But how
exactly do you go about getting a tax refund?
You can only claim a tax refund on goods (so
that excludes services, such as your hotel stay or
restaurant bill, and online purchases) at your
final point of departure from the EU. Refunds
must be made within three months of the
purchase date. Items must be in their original
packaging and be available for inspection by a
customs officer on departure, so wait until you’re
home before testing out your new fragrance.
Major stores in the capital participate in the
Retail Export Scheme, so once you’ve shopped
until you’re ready to drop, ask the cashier to fill
out and sign a tax-refund form. Check that your
details are correct, then sign it.
68 | LON DON PLAN N E R
LP JAN SHOPPING.indd 68
All forms need to be presented, along with
your passport, receipt and goods, to the customs
officer at your point of departure to be verified
and stamped.
Refunds will be issued at the desks of tax-free
services such as Global Blue (www.global
blue.com) or Planet (www.planetpayment.com),
or you may be required to mail your form in a
pre-paid envelope. ‘The refund amount can be
paid to your credit card, digital wallets (Alipay,
for example) or in cash,’ says David Perrotta,
BAG © DAVID ANTHONY BELL
Planet’s UK country manager.
If you’re shopping for luxury goods and the
store is partnered with Global Blue, you’re
GLOBAL BLUE LOUNGE © RENZ ANDRES
likely to be directed to the company’s plush VIP
Lounge in Mayfair’s Albemarle Street, where
multilingual staff will guide you through an early
tax-refund process, in rooms styled by partner
brands. Now that both Global Blue and Planet
have apps that make filling out tax-free forms
and tracking your refund simple and easy,
shopping in the capital is anything but taxing.
– Kathryn Conway
03/12/2019 15:45

MAJOR STORES
FORTNUM & MASON
Iconic store established in 1707. 181 Piccadilly,
W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. www.fortnum
andmason.com. Station: Green Park. E7.
HARRODS
Famous store with top fashion labels and
jewellery, plus a food hall. 87-135 Brompton Rd,
SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.harrods.com.
Station: Knightsbridge. F5.
JOHN LEWIS
Hats, gifts, beauty and electrical items. 300 Oxford
St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711.
www.johnlewis.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D6.
LIBERTY
Beauty, haberdashery and unique fabrics. Great
Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234.
www.liberty.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS
ICON AT THE O2
Discounts on designer brands. The O2, Pensinsula
Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. www.iconat
theo2.co.uk. Station: North Greenwich. Map inset.
LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET
Find discounts of up to 70 per cent off big brands.
Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 0QL. T: 020-8912
5210. www.londondesigneroutlet.com. Station:
Wembley Park/Wembley Stadium. Off map.
WESTFIELD LONDON
This huge mall has luxury and high-street shops.
Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. www.uk.
westfield.com. Station: Shepherd’s Bush. Map inset.
WESTFIELD STRATFORD CITY
A cinema, bowling and 270 stores. 2 Stratford
Place, Montfichet Rd, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300.
BAG © DAVID ANTHONY BELL
www.uk.westfield.com. Station: Stratford. Map inset.
SPECIALIST STORES
GLOBAL BLUE LOUNGE © RENZ ANDRES
BUCKINGHAM PALACE SHOP
Royal souvenirs. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd,
SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. www.royal
collectionshop.co.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.
LP JAN SHOPPING.indd 69
INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44.
Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates for
our Central London map (p. 90). Normal opening
hours are approximately 10am-6pm (Sun 11am-
5pm); some stores open until late on Thur
Fix up, look sharp
It’s all very well rushing out to buy the latest
‘It’ bag, but what if you’ve already hit the
jackpot and found one that’s irreplaceable?
If you love it that much and your trusty bag is
looking worse for wear, the solution lies at the
Handbag Clinic. From its relaunched flagship
on the King’s Road in Chelsea, the Clinic’s
magicians can revive, restore and reimagine
your treasured accessory, including stitching
and repainting it. For those who want to get rid
of their bag to make way for a new one, the team
can value and sell it. If you’re in west London,
you can arrange for an expert to visit your
home or hotel room to view your collection.
382 King’s Rd, SW3 5UZ. T: 020-3771 7846.
www.handbagclinic.co.uk
HAMLEYS
One of the world’s biggest, most-varied toy shops.
188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0371-704 1977.
www.hamleys.com. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.
THE HARRY POTTER SHOP
AT PLATFORM 9¾
Souvenirs and collectibles. King’s Cross Station,
N1 9AP. T: 020-3196 7375. www.harrypotter
platform934.com. Station: King’s Cross. Off map.
OCTOB E R 2019 | 69
03/12/2019 15:46
 Shopping
In a world of pure imagination
If you think chocolate should count as one of your five-a-day, a trip to
Fortnum & Mason’s recently relaunched confectionery department
should be on your agenda. As the original purveyors of drinking chocolate
in the 1860s, thanks to founders William Fortnum and Hugh Mason’s
penchant for a cup before their daily meeting, F&M has long satisfied
those with a sweet tooth. But it has now taken its role as the Willy Wonka
of London’s department stores one step further by creating a sugar-filled
wonderland filled with
aroma jars, tastings and a
drinking-chocolate station
where heavenly molten hot
chocolate flows from a
golden tap. Of the 500 new
varieties of confectionery
now available, look out
for the delectable Ruby
Chocolate Kent Orchard
Honey truffles and the
mind-bending Baked
Bean-flavoured chocolate,
a homage to the store’s
grocery buyer who bought
the first five cases of Henry
Heinz’s newly patented
tinned goods in 1866.

ROCK SHOP – OLD PARK LANE T-shirts and accessories. 231-233 Baker St,
Hard Rock clothing and accessories. 1 Old Park NW1 6XE. T: 020-7935 4464. www.beatlesstore
Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. www.shop. london.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. D5.
hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. F6.
LONDON GLASSBLOWING STUDIO
ICON © ISTOCK; FORTNUM & MASON IMAGES COURTESY OF FORTNUM & MASON
ROCK SHOP – PICCADILLY CIRCUS Watch glass objects being created and browse
The world’s largest Hard Rock store has a huge pieces for sale. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD.
range of lines. 225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR. T: 020-7403 2800. www.londonglassblowing.
T: 020-7287 4600. www.shop.hardrock.com. co.uk. Station: London Bridge. F11.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. F6.
THE NOBLE COLLECTION
IT’S ONLY ROCK ‘N’ ROLL Licensed treasures from Harry Potter and
Rock memorabilia and official merchandise. The Lord of the Rings. 26-28 Neal St, WC2H 9PS.
230 Baker St, NW1 5RT. T: 020-7224 0277. T: 020-3795 6298. www.noblecollection.co.uk.
www.itsonlyrocknrolllondon.co.uk. Station: Station: Covent Garden. D8.
Baker Street. C5.
RED BUS SHOP
JAPAN CENTRE Souvenir gift shop with London-themed
Japanese food and ceramics. goods. 59-61 York Rd, SE1 7NJ (and
35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020- Liberty opened branches). T: 020-7401 7033. www.red
3405 1246. www.japancentre.com. in 1875, after busshop.co.uk. Station: Waterloo. F8.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. Arthur Lasenby
Liberty TWININGS
LONDON BEATLES STORE borrowed Teas and infusions. 216 Strand, WC2R
London’s only Beatles shop stocks £2,000 from his 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. www.twinings.
father-in-law
new and vintage memorabilia, co.uk. Station: Temple. D8.

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ICON © ISTOCK; FORTNUM & MASON IMAGES COURTESY OF FORTNUM & MASON

R
@AbidGangatP

@ellatakesp @LondonPlanner
ictures0

#LP
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Share a London selfie
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 Eating out

FAQ
IAL
SPECently
Frequ tions
es
asked qu ed by
answer ts
exper

Where should I have

afternoon tea?
I
f going for afternoon tea is high on your London
list, then you have Queen Victoria’s assistant to
thank. That’s because the Duchess of Bedford,
Anna Russell, began the tradition in 1840 after
she requested tea, buttered bread and cake in her
room around 4pm and invited friends. By the
1880s, upper-class women were dressing in
gowns, gloves and hats for the light meal, which
was served on low tables in drawing rooms.
Confused between cream tea, afternoon tea
and the etiquette around them? Keith Newton,
managing director of www.afternoontea.co.uk,
explains: ‘A cream tea is tea and scones with
cream and jam; high tea is a heartier meal with
notable benefits: traditionally, cold milk was
poured to protect delicate china from cracking
from boiling tea, but if you put the tea in first then
guests can flavour their tea to their preference.
‘As for the other “rules”, most venues have
a relaxed smart-casual dress code; do not dunk
biscuits in your tea; and stir tea without clinking
your spoon against the cup, then place it on your
saucer. Loose-leaf tea enhances the flavour. Brew
it for three to six minutes; the longer you brew it
Rosewood London’s
desserts inspired by
Antony Gormley’s
SCONES © ISTOCK; CLARIDGE’S COURTESY OF MAYBOURNE

works
savoury food, historically eaten by the lower
HOTEL GROUP; ANTHONY GORMLEY © PATRICIA NIVEN

classes; while royal tea signifies the addition

of a glass of Champagne to afternoon tea.’
Afternoon tea has evolved into meals, themed
around everything from Alice in Wonderland to
Wimbledon, but some rules remain. Do you know
them? Keith says: ‘The conundrum of applying
cream or jam first to scones is an ongoing debate,
along with the meaning of life. People from
Devon and Cornwall claim to have invented
the cream tea, while each has a view on the
order of the toppings. Devon applies cream first,
Cornwall jam first – it’s a matter of preference.
‘Whether you add milk to tea or tea to milk is
a hotly debated tea-related enigma. Both have

72 | LON DON PLAN N E R

LP JAN EATING OUT.indd 72 03/12/2019 15:55


Claridge’s
the higher the level of antioxidants, called
flavonoids, which have health benefits.’
If you’d like to experience a classic afternoon
tea, book Claridge’s in Mayfair, which opened
as Mivart’s hotel in 1812. William and Marianne
Claridge took over the hotel around 1850,
expanding it in 1854 – Queen Victoria and
Prince Albert visited shortly after.
Afternoon tea is served on green-and-white
striped bone china in the Foyer and Reading
Room. As is tradition, you’ll begin with
crustless, rectangular sandwiches filled with
British classics such as duck egg, cucumber
and Scottish salmon in equal thickness to
SCONES © ISTOCK; CLARIDGE’S COURTESY OF MAYBOURNE
the bread. After scones and clotted cream,
HOTEL GROUP; ANTHONY GORMLEY © PATRICIA NIVEN
you can enjoy bite-size patisseries such as
strawberry tarts, accompanied by loose-leaf
tea (www.claridges.co.uk).
If you like keeping up with the times, then try
afternoon tea inspired by the RA’s exhibition
on British sculptor Antony Gormley at
Rosewood London (to 31 Jan). You’ll dine
in the hotel’s Mirror Room, which features
a wall of mirrors. After delicate sandwiches
and fresh scones, try desserts created by
executive pastry chef Mark Perkins, inspired
by some of Gormley’s most famous
sculptures (www.rosewoodhotels.com).
– Sarah Riches
LP JAN EATING OUT.indd 73
INFO To dial the UK, remove the first 0 and add 44.
Map: refers to the grid coordinates on our Central
London Map (p. 90). Prices shown are for a
three-course meal. £: up to £20 per person. ££:
£20-£40 per person. £££: £40 or more per person
AMERICAS
BUBBA GUMP SHRIMP CO.
This fun seafood restaurant is themed around
the film Forrest Gump. Load up on ribs, Cajun
shrimp and mac and cheese. Daily L & D. ££.
13 Coventry St, W1D 7AB. T: 020-3763 5288.
www.bubbagumpshrimp.co.uk. Station:
Piccadilly Circus. E7.
HARD ROCK CAFE LONDON
The original London branch of this
burger bar is decorated with rock memorabilia.
Save room for the apple cobbler. Daily L & D. ££.
150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700.
www.hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6.
HARD ROCK CAFE PICCADILLY
London’s legendary burger bar
has rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere.
Its extensive menu includes jumbo wings,
nachos and hickory-smoked ribs. Daily L & D.
££. Criterion Building, 225-229 Piccadilly,
W1J 9HR. T: 020-7287 4600. www.hardrock.com.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
PATTY & BUN
This laid-back joint serves wings and burgers
in brioche buns. Daily L & D. £. 54 James St,
W1U 1HE (and branches). T: 020-7487 3188.
www.pattyandbun.co.uk. Station: Bond Street. D6.
PLANET HOLLYWOOD
This Hollywood-inspired dining
venue has an international menu plus lots of
film memorabilia. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). ££.
57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000.
www.planethollywoodlondon.com. Station:
Piccadilly Circus. E7.
RAINFOREST CAFE
Busy all-day dining in a mock
rainforest jungle, with life-size animatronic
animals and a family-friendly menu. Daily L & D.
££. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434
3111. www.therainforestcafe.co.uk. Station:
Piccadilly Circus. E7.
BRITISH
AQUA SHARD
A slick restaurant on The Shard’s 31st floor with
sophisticated dishes such as seared halibut and
stuffed globe artichoke. Daily B, L & D. £££. 31 St
Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. www.aqua
shard.co.uk. Station: London Bridge. E10.
JAN UARY 2020 | 73
03/12/2019 16:01
 Eating Out
BILL’S
European brasserie with all-day dining,
including fish pie and steaks. Daily B, L & D.
££. 36-44 Brewer St, W1F 9TB (and branches).
T: 020-7287 8712. www.bills-website.co.uk.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.

CAFÉ IN THE CRYPT

Underneath a landmark church, this café serves
hearty traditional English dishes such as fish and
chips and apple crumble. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun
11am-6pm. £. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner of
Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158.
www.smitf.org. Station: Charing Cross. E8.

CHENESTON’S RESTAURANT
This wood-panelled dining room has Victorian
leaded windows. The menu is just as classic,
with dishes such as venison and pot-roast Dover
sole. Daily B, L & D. £££. The Milestone Hotel,
1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000.
www.milestonehotel.com. Station: High Street
Kensington. Off map.
POLO BAR
Dating from 1953, this ’50s-style, 24-hour café
serves all-day English breakfasts with bubbly,
enormous pancakes, burgers and desserts.
Daily B, L & D. ££. 176 Bishopsgate, EC2M 4NQ.
T: 020-7283 4889. www.polo24hourbar.co.uk.
Station: Liverpool Street. D11.
ST PANCRAS BRASSERIE
Graceful, high-ceilinged dining room, plus
a long Champagne bar overlooking the Eurostar
terminal. Daily B, L & D. ££. Upper Concourse,
St Pancras International, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870
9900. www.searcys.co.uk. Station: King’s Cross
St Pancras. C7/8.
SOPHIE’S STEAKHOUSE & BAR
The Soho branch of this modern steakhouse
has an open kitchen and a large covered terrace
at the front. Daily L & D. ££. 42-44 Great Windmill
St, W1D 7ND (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836
8836. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. Station:
Piccadilly Circus. E7.
CHINESE
DIM T
Dine on dim sum, noodles, crispy duck and
Korean-style fried chicken, while overlooking
Café culture
A new Middle Eastern restaurant serving
vegetarian sharing plates has opened in
Spitalfields, inspired by Tel Aviv’s café scene.
The name, Bubala, is a Yiddish term of
endearment used by grandparents, as a nod
to the manager Marc Summers’ background.
Head chef Helen Graham cooks on an open
grill; try her fried aubergine with date syrup
and zhoug (spicy coriander sauce) or cabbage
braised in pomegranate with tahini (sesame
dip), followed by cardamom and coconut sorbet
with sumac-roasted plums. Be sure to sample
some wines from the Middle East.
65 Commerical St, E1 6BD. T: 020-7392 2111.
www.bubala.co.uk
ROYAL CHINA BAKER STREET
This huge flagship branch, decorated with red
lanterns, is known for its dim sum and crispy
aromatic duck. Daily L & D. ££. 24-26 Baker St,
W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688.
www.rcguk.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. D6.
FISH & SEAFOOD
THE SEA SHELL
This decades-old restaurant with an aquarium
DISHES © BUBALA

fountains and Tower Bridge. Daily L & D. £. at the back serves fish and chips and British
2 More London Place, Tooley St, SE1 2DB (and desserts. Daily L & D. ££. 49-51 Lisson Grove,
branches). T: 020-7403 7000. www.dimt.co.uk. NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. www.seashell
Station: London Bridge. E11. restaurant.co.uk. Station: Marylebone. C5.

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 London ’ s Finest Fr es h
Fis h & Chips S ince 1 9 5 6

4 9 - 5 1 Lisson G rove
London NW 1 6 UH
Tel : 0 2 0 7 2 2 4 9 0 0 0
s eas hellr estaur ant . co . uk
seashellrestaurant

R estaur ant – Bar – TakeAway – Pr ivate Dining Room

London’s hidden café

Café in the Crypt
Breakfast Lunch Afternoon Tea Pre-Theatre Dinner
Underneath St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square
DISHES © BUBALA

www.smitf.org

JAN UARY 2020 | 75

LP JAN EATING OUT.indd 75 03/12/2019 16:05

 Eating Out
GASTROPUBS
BEAR & STAFF
Order classic comfort food such as soup, pie or
Whitby scampi alongside cask ale at this central
pub. Daily B, L & D. £-££. 10-12 Bear St, WC2H
7AX. T: 020-7321 0814. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk.
Station: Leicester Square. E7.
INDIAN
AMAYA
This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open
grill kitchen. Try the black pepper chicken. Daily
L & D. £££. Halkin Arcade, 19 Motcomb St, SW1X
8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. www.amaya.biz. Station:
Knightsbridge. F6.

THE PORCUPINE CHUTNEY MARY

Dating back to 1725, this pub was once a hangout
for Freemasons. Now it serves real ale and has
a dedicated pie menu. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L
& D. £-££. 48 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0BS.
T: 020-7379 9855. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk.
Station: Leicester Square. E7/E8.
WHITE HORSE
This Soho pub has original stained glass. Eat
from the buffet, or opt for burgers, pies or steak.
Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££. 16 Newburgh
St, W1F 7RY. T: 020-7494 9748. www.nicholsons
pubs.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus. D7.
WHITE SWAN
Enjoy fish and chips, grilled dishes and mezze.
Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun L & D. £-££. 14 New Row,
WC2N 4LF. T: 020-3077 1129. www.nicholsons
pubs.co.uk. Station: Leicester Square. E8.
Fine-dining Indian with regional dishes such as
Kerala fish curry and Hyderabadi lamb shank.
Stay for drinks at Pukka Bar. Daily L & D. ££.
73 St James’s St, SW1A 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688.
www.chutneymary.com. Station: Green Park. E7.
FARZI CAFÉ
Modern Indian restaurant with unusual dishes
such as avocado chaat, Wagyu beef Scotch
eggs and artichoke kofta. Daily L & D. ££-£££.
8 Haymarket, SW1Y 4BP. T: 020-3981 0090.
www.farzilondon.com. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
LITTLE INDIA
This cosy restaurant near the Royal Albert Hall
specialises in North Indian tandoori cuisine.
Daily L & D. ££. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB.
T: 020-7584 3476. www.littleindialondon.com.
Station: Gloucester Road. Off map.

A legendary local Review

LOYAL TAVERN © LATEEF PHOTOGRAPHY

Want to feel like a local? Then dine at Loyal Tavern, a new

IMAGE COURTESY OF IRVIN BAR GRILL

neighbourbood restaurant in Bermondsey. Housed in a former

textile factory, this is a great place to share small plates created
using British produce from Cornwall to the Isle of Wight. Our
waiter recommended cheese and truffle toasties, beef-dripping
chips, dumplings and tender pork cheeks, ending with banana
cake with pistachio. We predict it will build a loyal following.
171-173 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UW. T: 020-7260 2560.
www.loyaltavern.co.uk

LP JAN EATING OUT.indd 76 03/12/2019 16:06

 MASALA ZONE
A vibrant restaurant known for its wide variety
of street food, thalis and regional curries. Daily
L & D. £. 48 Floral St, WC2E 9DA (and branches).
T: 020-7379 0101. www.masalazone.com.
Station: Covent Garden. D8.

VEERASWAMY
The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant has a Michelin
star, an opulent interior and traditional dishes
including Kerala-style venison and six-hour
lamb shank. Daily L & D. £££. 99 Regent St, W1B
4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. www.veeraswamy.com.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
INTERNATIONAL
THE CAVENDISH
The European menu includes smoked burrata,
black pudding Scotch egg and truffle oil
flatbreads. Daily L & D. ££-£££. 35 New Cavendish Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397.
St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. www.35new
cavendish.co.uk. Station: Baker Street. D6.
THE TERRACE
This restaurant and bar dates back 150 years.
Choose from sandwiches, salads and Italian
Caledonian capers
Make like the Scots and celebrate the late
Scottish poet Robert Burns on or around
25 January, his birthday. Try black pudding
and Scottish venison at Irvin Bar Grill
in Crouch End (above), or make haggis at
Mac & Wild in Liverpool Street and Fitzrovia.
www.irvinbargrill.com; www.macandwild.com
dishes. Daily B, L & D. ££. Amba Hotel Charing
www.amba-hotel.com. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
ITALIAN
CAFFÉ CONCERTO
This popular chain of cafés has just refurbished
its Kensington branch. Go for breakfast, a cream

ADVERTORIAL
AUTHENTIC THAI CUISINE
at the award winning

THAI POT since 1992

Awarded:
Authentic Thai Food –
Ministry of
Commerce, Thailand
EL PIRATA
4 stars – For more than 25 years, El Pirata has hit the
Master Chef UK spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional
Thai Select Award – Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of
Department of Export Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste
LOYAL TAVERN © LATEEF PHOTOGRAPHY

Promotion, Ministry of
of the Mediterranean. Informal, inexpensive
IMAGE COURTESY OF IRVIN BAR GRILL

Commerce, Thailand
and above all, authentic – the restaurant uses
1 Bedfordbury, the finest Spanish produce, including jamón
Covent Garden, ibérico. Celebrity fans include Brian May and
London WC2N 4BP Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous
020 7379 4580 behind ENO, Coliseum, in their praise of this ‘Spanish gem’.
www.thaipot.biz Ë Charing Cross Station
(Covent Garden exit) 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair, W1 7AQ.
4 stars restaurant at 2 stars price! 020 7491 3810/020 7409 1315.
www.elpirata.co.uk. Green Park. Map C5
– food and service others talk about –

JAN UARY 2020 | 77

LP JAN EATING OUT.indd 77 03/12/2019 16:13

 Eating Out

Review
Plant power
Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton has launched a plant-based burger joint,
Neat Burger. After conquering the motor-racing circuit, the star has ambitions for global
domination of the vegan burger market – so race down to the branch near Oxford Circus and
be among the first to try what everyone’s going to be talking about. Grab a stool and opt for
a chick’n’ burger, veggie hot dog or a patty, with or without cheese. If you’re a meat lover, it really
does taste just as good. Try the hash browns with a dairy-free coconut shake on the side.
4 Princes St, W1B 2LE. T: 020-8243 8571. www.neat-burger.com

tea or Italian classics such as bruschetta, Parma JAPANESE

ham tartine and artichoke tagliatelle. Daily B,
L & D. ££. 88 Kensington High St, W8 4SG (and
branches). T: 020-7494 6850. www.caffeconcerto.
co.uk. Station: High Street Kensington. Off map.
GRANAIO
This spacious restaurant serves Italian
classics in grand surroundings – note the golden
mosaic ceiling. It has pre-theatre, two- and three-
course menus. Daily L & D. ££. 224 Piccadilly,
W1J 9HP. T: 020-7930 1459. www.ristorante
granaio.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
VERDI ITALIAN KITCHEN
Dine on authentic pizzas and pasta or
afternoon tea in this family-friendly restaurant
BENIHANA
Chefs grill dishes at your table: great
fun for kids. Try the Wagyu beef. Daily L & D.
£££. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches).
T: 020-7494 2525. www.benihana.co.uk. Station:
Piccadilly Circus. E7.
ICHIBA
This casual spot in a mall is ideal for a quick
bowl of ramen, rice or noodles. Daily, check for
times. £. Level 2, Westfield London, W12 7HB.
T: 020-3405 9410. www.ichibalondon.com.
Station: White City. Map inset.
SAKAGURA
This izakaya-style ‘Japanese pub’ has sharing
IMAGE COURTESY OF NEAT BURGER; ICON © ISTOCK

in an iconic venue. Tue-Sun L & D. ££. Door 12, dishes, along with sake and craft beers. Daily
Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. L & D. ££. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405
T: 020-7070 4401. www.royalalberthall.com/verdi. 7230. www.sakaguralondon.com.
Station: South Kensington. F4. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.

WILDWOOD RIVERSIDE
Tuck into pasta, pizza and risotto, wild For a BATEAUX LONDON
boar and chorizo burger or a vegan traditional See the sights on a cruise with lunch
Philly cheese sandwich. Daily L & D. taste of east and dinner, afternoon tea or a Sunday
London, try pie
£-££. 35-36 Bow St, WC2E 7AU and mash, or roast with live jazz. Daily L & D; Sun
(and branches). T: 020-7836 8640. jellied eels with L. £££. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU.
www.wildwoodrestaurants.co.uk. parsley liquor T: 020-7695 1800. www.bateaux
Station: Covent Garden. E8. london.com. Station: Embankment. E8.

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 LONDON SHOWBOAT
Have lunch, afternoon tea or dinner with jazz.
Booking essential. Boarding at 7.30pm. £££.
Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400.
www.citycruises.com. Station: Westminster. F8.

R.S. HISPANIOLA
Moored restaurant boat serving European
dishes. Daily L & D. ££. Victoria Embankment,
WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. www.hispaniola.
co.uk. Station: Embankment. E8.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN
MANGO TREE
Upmarket Thai restaurant near Buckingham
Palace. Daily L & D. ££-£££. 46 Grosvenor Place, PRESENT ADVERT TO SERVER BEFORE ORDERING

20% OFF
SW1X 7EQ (and branches). T: 020-7823 1888.
www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria. F6.

THAI POT FOOD, SOFT DRINKS + MERCHANDISE*

This casual spot offers good-value dishes such
as stir-fried beef and sticky rice. Mon-Sat L & D.
£. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN)
www.thaipot.biz. Station: Covent Garden. E8. BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN)

YUU KITCHEN
Warm up over sharing plates of spicy tuna
tostada and salt-beef gyoza inspired by
Japanese, Filipino, Taiwanese and Hawaiian
cuisine. Tue-Sat L & D; Sun L (to 5.30pm).
£-££. 31-33 Heddon St, W1B 4BN (and branches).
T: 020-7478 8910. www.yuukitchen.com.
Station: Oxford Circus. E7.

SPANISH
EL PIRATA
This popular Mayfair restaurant has been
serving tapas for 25 years. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. TO BOOK PLEASE CALL
££. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810.
www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Green Park. E6. 020 7287 1000
planethollywoodlondon.com
VEGAN & VEGETARIAN
THE GATE 57-60 HAYMARKET
Serving gourmet vegan and veggie dishes such LONDON SW1Y 4QX
IMAGE COURTESY OF NEAT BURGER; ICON © ISTOCK

as miso-glazed aubergine, spiced potato chaat TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ

and pad Thai. Daily L & D; Sat & Sun B. ££.
22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL (and branches).
T: 020-7724 6656. www.thegaterestaurants.com.
Station: Marble Arch. D5.
Discount applicable to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ meal deal)
paying by cash or card only. Valid until 31/7/20. Not valid in
conjunction with any other offer. Subject to availability.
1 voucher per table max. 8 persons. CODE: LPLAN

TIBITS
Veggie buffet, paid by plate weight, with a huge
WATCH FOOTBALL
selection including Asian and Mediterranean SHOWN LIVE IN OUR BAR
hot dishes, fresh salads and desserts. Daily SEE WEBSITE FOR MATCH
B, L & D. £-££. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, SCHEDULE. FULL DRINK AND
W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4112. www.tibits.co.uk. BAR BITES MENU AVAILABLE
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.

JAN UARY 2020 | 79

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 Nightlife
FAQ
IAL
SPECently
Frequ tions Where can I go
for a pub crawl?
es
asked qu ed by
answer ts
exper

I
’ve been researching this ever since I moved
to London. The most successful crawls I’ve had
were in Brixton and the City of London but,
as research for this article, I went on a pub
tour – I’m a professional journalist, after all.
My tour was with the London Literary Pub
Crawl, which leads a group of up to 20 around
Fitzrovia and Soho once a week. The tour is run
by the Maverick Theatre Company, so you’re
guaranteed to have an actorly guide. I really like
this concept; tour a historic part of London with
an expert and discover lots of interesting pubs.
Dylan Thomas features heavily on the tour,
because the Welsh poet was a big fan of drinking

THE WHEATSHEAF AND BLUE PLAQUES © NEIL SIMPSON; THE BLACKFRIAR © ISTOCK; UNICORN © JOURNEY
in Fitzrovia. We started in a quiet upstairs room
at The Wheatsheaf, so that we could meet each
other and listen to some literary extracts. I loved
The Fitzroy Tavern, which includes the Dylan
Thomas library: this tiny room for five people
has an open fire, so it’s wonderful in winter.
Next is George Orwell’s former local, the classy
Newman Arms, which is thought to have
inspired the ‘Proles’ pub in his dystopian novel,
1984. As we strolled to Soho, we visited drinking
dens associated with Karl Marx, TS Eliot and
Francis Bacon. The leisurely tour includes plenty
of stops, but you’re not under pressure to keep
drinking – and I thought it was a fantastic insider’s
look at West End nightlife. Tickets are £29
(drinks not included) and advance online booking
is essential (www.londonliterarypubcrawl.com).
As for the City, I love drinking in this district
because it’s the oldest part of London, with
the most ancient pubs. I recommend picking
a Saturday or Sunday when the area is quieter
and visiting Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese,
the Cittie of Yorke and The Blackfriar
(www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk).
Finally, Brixton is a good choice because it’s
compact and you can walk from pub to pub, but
it’s not as prohibitively busy as central London
can be. Brixton has a real party atmosphere,
so there’s a lot of choice: Effra Social and
Effra Hall Tavern both get my vote
(www.effrasocial.com; www.theeffra.com).
– Neil Simpson

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Believe in Review
unicorns
Sarah Riches, Nightlife Editor
Instagrammers need to head to Journey in
Chelsea – it has installed a unicorn that burps
Champagne. A neon sign above the mystical
creature’s head says ‘stroke for Champagne’,
so buy a token and follow the instructions.
You can pair your meal with cocktails – we
enjoyed spiced mussels with a rose and lychee
martini, and braised ox cheek and tilapia with
a banana and celery margarita. Some believe
unicorns have healing powers. For the sake
THE WHEATSHEAF AND BLUE PLAQUES © NEIL SIMPSON; THE BLACKFRIAR © ISTOCK; UNICORN © JOURNEY
of your hangover, let’s hope it’s true.
459 King’s Rd, SW10 0LR. T: 020-3488 1678.
www.chelseafunhouse.com
TRADITIONAL PUBS
MAGPIE & STUMP
This cosy pub dates back to the 1500s. Mon-Fri.
18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085.
www.magpieandstump.com. Station: St Paul’s. D10.
WAXY O’CONNOR’S
Huge Irish-themed pub with live music, a food
menu and four bars. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD.
T: 020-7287 0255. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk.
Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7.
WAXY’S LITTLE SISTER
A smaller, quieter sister venue to the huge
Waxy’s, with traditional Irish beers. 20 Wardour
St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. www.waxy
oconnors.co.uk. Station: Piccadilly Circus. E7. HIPPODROME CASINO
YE OLDE CHESHIRE CHEESE
Expect snug 17th-century rooms and narrow,
atmospheric passageways. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7769 8888. www.hippodromecasino.com.
T: 020-7353 6170. Station: Blackfriars. D9.
LP JAN NIGHTLIFE .indd 81
INFO Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most
nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal
drinking age is 18 years old. ID may be required.
Letters at end of listings (i.e. C7) are coordinates
for our Central London map (p. 90)
BARS & CLUBS
THE BACK ROOM
Next door to the Hard Rock Cafe, this bar has
vintage and iconic music memorabilia, including
a door from Apple Studios signed by The Beatles.
148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700.
www.hardrock.com. Station: Hyde Park Corner. E6.
BELOW ZERO ICE BAR
Wrap up in faux fur capes and gloves at this
basement bar made from ice. Entry price includes
a cocktail served in an ice glass. 31-33 Heddon St,
W1B 4BN. T: 020-7478 8917. www.belowzeroice
bar.com. Station: Oxford Circus. E7.
CITY GARDEN BAR
This bar, on the roof of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building,
has spectacular views and a three-storey, tiered
garden. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF.
T: 0333-772 0020. www.skygarden.london.
Station: Monument. D11/E11.
GORDON’S WINE BAR
Enjoy a big selection of global wines in this brick-
walled basement, which opened in 1890. 47 Villiers
St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. www.gordons
winebar.com. Station: Charing Cross. E8.
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT
RONNIE SCOTT’S
Soho jazz club with nightly performances. 47 Frith
St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. www.ronnie
scotts.co.uk. Station: Tottenham Court Road. D7.
STRINGFELLOWS
Opened in 1980, this club was established by the
late Peter Stringfellow and is one of the world’s
best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Free entry when
dining. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF.
T: 020-7240 5534. www.stringfellows.co.uk.
Station: Leicester Square. E8.
CASINOS
This landmark 24-hour venue has gaming over
three floors plus Heliot, a steak restaurant.
Cranbourn St, off Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH.
Station: Leicester Square. E7.
03/12/2019 16:16
 BritainPlanner
Move over, Hollywood. As Rosie Collins relives
Game of Thrones, she finds that the UK is home
to many of the show’s iconic film locations
B
ased on the books by George R.R.
Martin, the HBO show Game of Thrones
transported global audiences into the
heart of a war. Set in the mythical
Westeros, for eight nail-biting series we followed
noble families as they battled it out for the Iron
Throne under the threat of the White Walkers.
While much of the series was shot in a studio,
many of these fictional and fantastical places
were filmed in real locations in Northern Ireland,
Iceland, Spain, Croatia, Morocco and the UK.
While the green screens, CGI tricks and grand
sets are long gone, the rugged coastlines, medieval
strongholds, tumbling forests and ancient castles
remain. For those visiting the UK, a speedy trip
to the north-eastern shorelines of Northern
Ireland will satiate even the most avid Thrones
fans – the Causeway Coast boasts an extraordinary
number of film locations. So grab your walking
boots, raincoat (and maybe a longsword) and
explore the hills and craggy shores of Westeros.
Doune Castle, Scotland
While the shooting location for Winterfell was
relocated to Castle Ward in Northern Ireland
after the first few episodes, the original spot was at
Doune Castle, just a short drive away from Stirling
in Scotland. Built in the 13th century as a medieval
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stronghold, the castle includes parts of an earlier
structure – there’s a Roman fort nearby. Credit
for the style featured in Thrones goes to Robert
Stewart, the 1st Duke of Albany and Governor of
Scotland, who was also known as ‘the uncrowned
king’. He acquired the castle in 1361 and ruled the
kingdom from 1386 until 1420. The towers were
the spot of the scene in episode one where Jaime
Lannister pushed Bran Stark out of the window
to protect his secret relationship with Cersei
(www.historicenvironment.scot).
Cushendun Caves, Northern Ireland
The caves are best known by fans of the show as
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; BALLINTOY © TOURISM IRELAND
the chamber beneath Storm’s End, where the Red
GAME OF THRONES © 2016 HOME BOX OFFICE, INC.
Priestess gave birth to a shadowy demon. The
malignant spirit was then summoned to kill Renly
Baratheon to help his brother, Stannis Baratheon,
claim the Iron Throne. Despite these shady scenes,
Cushendun Caves is a must-visit. Thought to be
around 400 million years old, the mysterious
caves were formed by centuries of smashing
waves and provide the ideal rocky and broody
coastlines to portray the Baratheon home
territories. The quaint village of Cushendun sits
atop an elevated beach on the Causeway Coastal
Route. The caves are easily accessible by foot along
the coast from the village (www.visitbritain.com).
03/12/2019 16:18
 FIND YOUR
Britain’s best-loved
towns and cities.
In partnership
with VisitBritain

Doune Castle in
Game of Thrones

Ballintoy
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; BALLINTOY © TOURISM IRELAND
GAME OF THRONES © 2016 HOME BOX OFFICE, INC.

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 FIND YOUR

Britain Planner
Ballintoy Harbour, Northern Ireland
This picturesque little harbour first appears
in series two, episode two as Pyke and the Iron
Islands. It becomes Lordsport Harbour, a place
of high importance, where Theon Greyjoy reaffirms
his loyalty to his family by being baptised into the
religion of the Drowned God. A different section
of Ballintoy beach was also used to recreate the
castle of Dragonstone – the ancestral seat of
House Targaryen. In reality, Ballintoy is a village
with a small fishing harbour situated between
Ballycastle and the Giant’s Causeway. Home to
less than 200 people, visitors to this tranquil
Doune Castle in location should also head to the nearby
Game of Thrones Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, to cross over a deep
gorge to a small island – something resident
salmon fishermen have been doing for more than
350 years (www.discovernorthernireland.com).

Tollymore Forest, Northern Ireland

These stunning woodlands have acted as the
location for various scenes in Game of Thrones.
They are home to the Shimna River and beautiful
bridges which date back to the 18th century, one
of which (the Altavaddy Bridge) was the spot in
series one where the Stark children found their
Direwolf pups. However, the tall slender trees of
the park also act as the Haunted Forest, situated
The Hermitage at
north of The Wall, where the Night’s Watch find
Tollymore Forest dead Wildlings in the snow. This was the moment
when we first saw these corpses reanimated as

Cushendun

GAME OF THRONES IMAGES © HBO; HERMITAGE © CHRIS HILL PHOTOGRAPHIC/

TOURISM ISLAND; CUSHENDUN © STEFAN SCHNEBELT/TOURISM IRELAND
XXXXX

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 Tollymore Forest
in Game of Thrones

Mourne
Mountains

the terrifying White Walkers. The park boasts

1,200 acres of lush forests – home to historical
ruins – that roll over the slopes of the Mourne
Mountains (www.discovernorthernireland.com).

Larrybane, Northern Ireland

Just along this majestic Causeway Coastal
Route from Ballintoy Harbour, GoT fans can
revel in discovering another area of Storm’s End
GAME OF THRONES IMAGES © HBO; HERMITAGE © CHRIS HILL PHOTOGRAPHIC/

in the Stormlands. It was here in series two where Murlough Bay, Northern Ireland
TOURISM ISLAND; CUSHENDUN © STEFAN SCHNEBELT/TOURISM IRELAND

Renly Baratheon set up camp after he declared
himself King of Westeros with the support of
House Tyrell. In episode three, he and his wife
Margaery Tyrell watch Ser Loras Tyrell battle
against a mystery knight, who turns out to be
the iconic Brienne of Tarth. Afterwards, we saw
Lady Catelyn Stark come to
LOCATION MAP
negotiate an alliance between
Renly and her son, Robb Stark,
the then King of the North.
Doune Castle
This picturesque spot was also
used in series six to portray the
Northern
Kingsmoot on the Iron Islands. Ireland
Here, Yara Greyjoy and her uncle
Euron Greyjoy made their cases
for the Salt Throne. Larrybane
forms a rocky part of the coast,
boasting views out to Sheep Island
XXXXX
The beautiful Murlough Bay was also used to
depict Renly Baratheon’s camp in series two, but
it later appears again as Slaver’s Bay in series
five. In episode six, Tyrion Lannister and Ser
Jorah Mormont are captured by slavers and
taken by the leader to the fighting pits in Meereen.
It also provided some of the Iron
Islands shots. Murlough Bay boasts
lush grass that reaches down to
the sea and stunning views out to
Scotland on a clear day. Remote
and rugged, if you head north along
the coast you’ll find Fair Head,
which was used to depict moody
clifftop scenes in Dragonstone.
Steel yourself for some hiking,
London bearing in mind that the view of
Rathlin Island is well worth the

(www.nationaltrust.org.uk). effort (www.nationaltrust.org.uk).

JAN UARY 2020 | 85

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 Essential information
Ticket information
Oyster cards
& Travelcards
An Oyster card is a pre-paid
travel smart card. Use it for
single journeys on the bus, Tube,
tram, DLR, London Overground
and most National Rail train
services within the London
region. You can also buy a
Visitor Oyster card before you
leave home for £5 and load it
with credit at www.visitor
shop.tfl.gov.uk. The system
has nine zones; Zone 1 is in
central London.

Buy Oyster cards and
Day Travelcards from ticket
machines at stations, eight
TfL Visitor Centres and
any Oyster Ticket Shop.
UK residents can also pay for
their travel with a UK-issued
contactless debit card. For more
information, see www.tfl.gov.
uk/visitinglondon.
An Oyster card also gives
you a 25 per cent discount on
Emirates Air Line (London’s
cable car) and discounts on
single journeys on all Thames
Clippers river buses. For
more information, visit
www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
Visitor pass
London Pass offers free entry and
discounts at a fixed price. See
www.visitbritainshop.com.
Getting around
For 24-hour travel info, visit
Transport for London’s (TfL)
website www.tfl.gov.uk/
visitinglondon or call
T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground
(the Tube)
www.tfl.gov.uk. See London
Underground Map (p. 96-97).
Services run Mon-Sat 5am-
12.30am and Sun 7.30am-
11.30pm on most routes. Night
Tube runs all night Fri & Sat
on the Victoria and Jubilee
lines and most of the Central,
Northern and Piccadilly lines.
Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare
is £4.90 (£2.40 Oyster).
London buses
London buses run from
5am-12.30am. Night buses
(midnight-4.30am) operate
on main routes. Some services
run 24 hours a day. You cannot
pay cash on the bus, so use an
Oyster card, Travelcard or
UK-issued contactless payment
debit card. For more info, visit
www.tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single
fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card
or UK-issued contactless card,
allowing unlimited bus journeys
within one hour of touching in.
London Overground
www.tfl.gov.uk. See
London Underground Map
(p. 96-97). Trains run Mon-
Sat 5am-midnight and Sun
7am-11.30pm on most routes.
Docklands Light Railway
www.tfl.gov.uk.
T: 020-7363 9700. Trains
run every three to 10 mins.
Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am;
Sun 7am-11pm.
Taxis
Fares increase after 8pm.
Only use licensed black cabs.
Visit www.tfl.gov.uk.

LONDON PLANNER
ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

Now on YouTube

Subscribe www.youtube.com/LondonPlanner

86 | LON DON PLAN N E R

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 INFO Prices quoted are for single journeys.
Fares and journey times can change.
Please check before you travel at www.tfl.gov.uk

Airports
Heathrow Airport
T: 0844-335 1801. www.heathrowairport.com.
London Underground: Direct trains to/from
central London every five minutes 5am-11.45pm
via Piccadilly Line. Journey time 60 minutes.
Heathrow Express: Four direct trains an hour to/
from Paddington. Journey time 15 minutes.
National Express: Three coaches per hour to/from
TRAINS Victoria Coach Station. Journey time 45 minutes.
Paddington serves the West Country, Wales
and the South Midlands. Liverpool Gatwick Airport
Street and Fenchurch Street serve East T: 0844-892 0322. www.gatwickairport.com.
Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s ThamesLink T: 0345-026 4700. Direct trains
to/from London Bridge and St Pancras
Cross St Pancras Marylebone and International (connects to King’s Cross St
St Pancras International (connects to Pancras) and others. Gatwick Express: Direct
King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north, trains to/from Victoria every 15 minutes.
central and southeast Britain. The journey takes about 30 minutes. Southern
Charing Cross London Bridge Railway: Direct trains to/from Victoria
Waterloo and Victoria serve every 15 minutes. The journey takes 30 minutes.
southern England. T: 0845-748 4950. National Express: Direct coaches to/from
www.nationalrail.co.uk. Eurostar uses Victoria Coach Station, up to two coaches per
hour. Journey time is one hour 20 minutes.
St Pancras. Go to www.eurostar.com. UK:
T: 0344-822 4777. International: T: 0343-2186 186. City Airport
T: 020-7646 0088. www.londoncityairport.com.
Car hire London City Airport: Trains
Make sure your driving licence is valid for to/from Canary Wharf (change at
the UK and see ‘Congestion and ULEZ Charges’ Poplar) Canning Town
Bank and many other stations.
(p. 88). Enterprise Rent-A-Car T: 0800-800
227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Hertz T: 020-7365 Stansted Airport
3369. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd T: 0844-335 1803. www.stanstedairport.com.
T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Stansted Express: Trains to/from
Liverpool Street. National Express:
Santander Cycles hire Coaches run to/from Victoria Coach Station.
Bicycles are for hire from docking stations. Stansted Citylink runs coaches to Stansted
Check for prices. www.tfl.gov.uk/ Airport from Victoria and King’s
Cross St Pancras.
santandercycles or T: 0343-222 6666.
Luton Airport
Transport symbols explained T: 01582-405 100. www.london-luton.co.uk.
ThamesLink T: 0345-026 4700. Direct trains
London Underground Docklands from St Pancras International are 40-45
Light Railway
London Overground minutes (connects to King’s Cross St
London River Pancras) and other stations.
National Rail Services Pier

Enjoy London with a Visitor Oyster Card.

ALL IMAGES © ISTOCK

The easiest way to travel around.

For more information or to pre-purchase, go to visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk
MAYOR OF LONDON Transport for London

JAN UARY 2020 | 87

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 Ticket information

Essential information
Visitor information centre
Find tourist information at the City of
London Information Centre, St Paul’s
Churchyard, EC4M 8BX.
Whether you need directions, information
about events or day trip suggestions, speak
to the friendly, multilingual team at the only
officially recognised tourist information
centre in central London. At the centre,
services include Oyster cards, hotel
reservations, foreign exchange, VAT refunds,
stamps, postcards and tickets to attractions,
tours and theatre shows.
There are also Visitor Centres at
Holborn, Victoria, Euston, King’s
Cross St Pancras, Liverpool Street, Piccadilly
Circus, Paddington, Gatwick Airport and
Heathrow Airport Terminals 2 & 3.

Coaches
LONDON PLANNER
London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach
For copies of London Planner call T: 020-7611 4669
Station, a central hub that offers travel across the
Morris Visitor Publications, 2nd Floor, Samuel House, 6 St Alban’s St, UK, SW1W 9TP. T: 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.
London, SW1Y 4SQ. T: 020-7242 5222. london.planner@morriseurope.com.
LondonPlanner LondonPlannerMag LondonPlanner www.
uk/coaches. Victoria.
www.youtube.com/londonplanner
Managing Editor: Kohinoor Sahota Group Deputy Editor: Sarah Riches
Congestion and ULEZ Charges
Associate & Digital Editor: Neil Simpson Sub Editor: Anna Frame There are congestion charges to drive into central
Contributors: Rosie Collins, James Drury, Emma Levine
Picture Researcher: Tamsan Barratt Group Art Director: Tim Benton London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on
Senior Designer: Suzette Scoble Designer: Ella-Louisa Romain
Content Director: Chris Johnson Production & Distribution Director: the day (£11.50), or the day after (£14). Cars must
Melanie Needham Senior Production Assistant & Retoucher: Dave Weeks
Senior Account Manager: Christiane Heyde Sales Director: Rob Way
also meet the new emissions standards in the Ultra
Senior Sales Development Manager: Charlotte Johnson-Last Sales Low Emission Zone (ULEZ) or pay a daily charge.
Development Manager: Kate Roach Sales and Marketing Executive:
Sam Marzell Sales and Marketing Associate: Mirka Jamrichova Operations T: 0343-222 2222. www.cclondon.com.
Director: Bridget Bayford Senior Marketing, Distribution & Production
Co-ordinator: Graham Randell Office Co-ordinator: Ewa Laskowska
Operations Assistant: Vinetta Swan London & Partners: T: 020-7234 5800. River services
www.londonandpartners.com www.visitbritain.com
London Planner Volume 33, Issue 1. Printed in Great Britain.
Thames Clippers River Bus serves 23 piers. Adult
Over 100,000 monthly copies distributed worldwide. Est. 1984. from £4.50; child/Freedom Pass £2.25. River
© Morris Visitor Publications. No part may be reproduced without
written permission from Morris Visitor Publications. Roamer walk-up adult £19.90; child/Freedom Pass
NOTE: The information contained in this publication has been published in good faith on the basis of
information submitted to Morris Visitor Publications. MVP and VisitBritain cannot guarantee the accuracy £9.95. River Roamer online adult £17.80; child/
of the information in this publication and accept no responsibility for any error or misrepresentation.
All liability for loss, disappointment, negligence or other damages caused by reliance on the information Freedom Pass £8.90. Discounts on single journeys
contained in this publication, or in the event of bankruptcy, or liquidation or cessation of trade of any
company, individual or firm is hereby excluded. Printed by Acorn Web Offset Ltd, ISO 14001 accredited. on all Thames Clippers services with Oyster/
ISSN 0265 8437 LP/362/Jan20/1104.
contactless. Under-fives travel free. www.thames
clippers.com; www.tfl.gov.uk/river
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Emirates Air Line cable car

London’s only cable car runs across the River
The papers used for this magazine are produced from certified sustainable
sources by mills with recognised environmental accreditation. Please recycle
Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2)
this magazine, or return it to your hotel. and the Royal Docks (ExCeL). Board from North
Greenwich or Royal Victoria (return flights are
• SHOPPIN G
• EATING • ENTERTA
INMENT • MAPS
available). www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
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MONTHLY GUIDE
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LONDONPLANNER.COM
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FIND YOUR

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 CARS LTD
EST
1969

Family business, looking after their customers

vehicle rental needs for over 50 years.
Let us meet you at Heathrow & Gatwick or
collect from one of twelve branches.
Large range of vehicles at low rates.

Extensive car range Multiseaters

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9 Seater vehicles Electric Hybrids

Accessible London Call: 0800 770 007

Disabled travellers in London should visit Offices in South London, Canterbury,
www.tfl.gov.uk/accessibility or DisabledGo Surrey & Hampshire.
at www.disabledgo.com. For UK details, visit www.kendallcars.com
www.openbritain.net.
Travel information
For 24-hour London travel information (bus,

DOWNLOAD THE
Tube, river, rail, coach, cycle, tram, car, on foot,
accessibility and assisted travel), visit www.tfl.
gov.uk/gettingaround or call T: 0343-222 1234.
LATEST ISSUE NOW!
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Choose from luxury hotels, bed and breakfasts, or: visitbritain.com/en/londonplanner
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This map is based on information derived from aerial photography and an original field survey
Y

GOLDEN
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conducted by Cosmographics Ltd, Monaco House, Unit 1 Monaco Works, Station Road, Kings Langley,
TOURS EL ST
Hertfordshire, WD4 8LQ. R EE
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Contains Ordnance Survey data © Crown copyright and database right 2018. IZ ST MICHAEL’S T
AB
Map produced by Cosmographics Ltd. ET
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TO

© British Tourist Authority (trading as VisitBritain) 2018. ST

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SIMM
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LONDONPLANNE
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 London in numbers Sport

0,000,000
£60 ROYAL ASCOT
is Britain’s most popular race meeting
and welcomes

300,000
VISITORS
over five days THOUSAND

The London Marathon

has raised more than
£600 million for charity
since it was launched in 1982 was the year
the world
first saw
women’s
boxing take
place at the
Olympic Games

ARSENAL FC

SEATS
The original
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ground in Kennington
consisted of
1886
10,000
London’s oldest
17 KILOMETRES Premier League club

The steel cables used SQUARES Wimbledon is

to cover Lee Valley the world’s oldest
of turf cut
Velodrome are twice from Tooting tennis tournament
the height of Everest Common

FOUNDED in 1877

CAMBRIDGE: 81
WINS

OXFORD: 79
The Oxford and Cambridge boat race first took place on 10 June 1829
The world-famous
LONDON 2012 OLYMPICS Masters snooker

315M LONG RAISED £659 MILLION

10.99m
tournament has
been held in
GRAPHIC ICONS © ISTOCK

FROM TICKET SALES TICKETS London every

1 9 7 5
SOLD year since...

WEMBLEY STADIUM’S ARCH golf

courses
Sources: Wimbledon Tennis
Championships; The London Companion;
108

are now in
IS THE LONGEST SINGLE-SPAN
virginmoneylondonmarathon.com/
London, covering en-gb/charity/charitable-trust; Mail
3% of the total land Online; ascot.co.uk; historyextra.com
ROOF STRUCTURE IN THE WORLD mass of the capital

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