Care of the Corn Snake (Pantherophis Guttatus Guttatus)

Introduction
Corn snakes originate from the United States. They range from southern New Jersey to
Mississippi and southeastern Louisiana, through to central Tennessee and Kentucky.
Their natural habitats include; woodland, fields, scrubland and rocky hillsides. They
derive their name from their tendency to inhabit corn fields and places where corn is
processed, in their search for rodents. For anyone that has ever been interested in keeping
a snake, the corn snake would be the best place to start.
Description
Corn snakes generally reach lengths of 4 to 5 feet, with males being slightly larger than
females. There are many morphs of corn snake available today, but their natural
coloration is an orange/red, with black saddles running down their back and a black and
white checker board pattern on their underneath.
The Enclosure
An adult corn snake will require a vivarium at least 36" x 18" x 18" (90cm x 45cm x
45"cm). Younger snakes are best housed in smaller vivaia as large amounts of space can
result in feeding problems. Wooden or glass vivaria can be used for adults. Although, it is
recommended that 3 of the 4 sides of a glass vivarium should be blocked off, this will
make the snake feel more secure. Hatchlings are best housed in the plastic, faunarium
type enclosures as excessive space can lead to feeding problems. As snakes a sensitive to
vibration, you should try to keep your snake in a quiet part of the house, as excessive
noise/vibrations can cause stress.

Heating
As corn snakes, like any other reptile are cold blooded and rely on external heat to raise
their body temperature. The best means of providing this is via a heat mat for a corn
snake. As Corn snakes are primarily nocturnal, they start to become active when the sun
is setting and sit themselves on rocks/surfaces that have retained heat from the sun. Heat
mats are ideal in this case in that they provide the snake with the same stomach heat. The
heat mat must be attached to a thermostat (not be confused with a thermometer) to
prevent any overheating and maintain the surface temperature of the mat at 28/31C. Only
about one third of the floor in the snake’s enclosure should be heated, this gives the snake
a thermal gradient (choice between warm and cool areas). If using a wooden vivarium,
you should install the heat mat inside the vivarium, as placing it under the enclosure will
thermally block the mat and prevent any heat from getting through. Water proof the heat
mat by using a good quality water proof tape when installing it inside a vivarium, in case
of the corn snake defecates on the mat or knocks its water bowl over. Only a thin layer of
substrate should be placed on the heat mat, normally less than a cm. If using plastic-
faunarium type enclosures, the heat mat should be placed underneath. Heat mats can be
left on around the clock so the snake always has a spot on which it can sit and warm
itself. A good digital thermometer should be used to monitor the surface temperature of
the heated area. The temperature of the rest of the enclosure should be about average
room temperature 20/22C (68/72F).
Lighting
Corn snakes are mainly nocturnal so no specialist lighting is really required. Although,
the use of day light lamps will replicate the correct photo periods and allow the snake the
opportunity to bask in UV rays should it wish. If you are going to use lighting make sure
your snake has adequate retreats or it will become distressed.

Water
Your snake must have constant access to fresh drinking water supplied in the form of a
dish which should be larger enough for the snake to bath in should it want to. This will
need changing and cleaning daily.

Diet/Feeding
In captivity mice will make up the main diet of your corn snake. Young snakes are
normally quite nervous feeders so it is suggested you leave the snake alone with the prey
items in its enclosure so the snake can feed undisturbed, this is normally best done at
night. Your snake will grow in confidence as it matures and should eventually feed quite
happily outside its enclosure, therefore eliminating the risk of any substrate being
ingested whilst feeding. This will also disassociate you going into the enclosure with the
snake being fed, reducing the chance of any accidental bites whilst handling.
Hatchling snakes should be fed pinkie mice (day old mice), normally one every 4/5 days
to begin with and as the snake grows and one pinkie doesn’t seem to be enough, offer
two, then 3, until your snake is large enough to handle fuzzies (mice that are starting to
get their fur), the next size up to pinkies. The same pattern should be repeated until the
snake is large enough to consume small adult mice, this normally happens after about a
year. Once the snake is large enough to eat these, one/two of them (depending on the
snake’s size) should be offered once every 7 days. Medium mice would be the next size
up and eventually, your snake should be quite capable of eating large adult mice. Corn
snakes are normally fully grown at about 2 and half to 3 years old and to avoid obesity,
one prey item should be offered every 7 to 14 days. You would normally do this once the
snake is capable of eating medium mice. Don’t attempt handling of the snake for at least
3 days after a meal as this could also result in regurgitation.

Decor
It is vital the snake feels secure otherwise it will become stressed. Hides should be placed
on the warm end and the cool ends of the enclosure. Hides can be made using bits of rock
and wood and there is a vast array of commercially produced hides available. Corn
snakes will also climb if given the option, so why not provide your snake with a branch
or two.

Substrate/bedding
When young, it is advised you keep your snake on kitchen role to eliminate the risk of
substrate being consumed when the snake feeds. Once the snake is confident enough to
be fed outside the enclosure in separate container, beech chips, aspen and hemp chippings
are all fine.
Cleaning/maintenance
A full clean out and disinfection of the vivarium and all of its contents should be carried
out around once a month with a good reptile disinfectant. Faeces should be removed
whenever the snake defecates. Some reptiles can carry the salmonella bacteria, so wash
your hands thoroughly with an antibacterial hand wash after handling and any
maintenance.

Handling
It is best to handle young corn snakes sparingly as they are normally quite skittish and
too much handling can lead to stress and result in a snake that refuses to feed. So short
handling spells a couple of times a week is quite enough. As the snake matures it will
calm and handling can be carried out on a more regular basis.