“Eyebleach” Underwater Flood Light

Design Document

Prepared By:
Mark Scoob
2023-03-27
Table of Contents

List of Figures ................................................................................................................................................ 4

Disclaimer...................................................................................................................................................... 5
Summary ....................................................................................................................................................... 5
1.0 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................ 6
2.0 Design Decisions ..................................................................................................................................... 6
2.1 LED ...................................................................................................................................................... 6
2.2 Beam Angle and Lumens ..................................................................................................................... 6
2.3 Cells ..................................................................................................................................................... 7
2.4 Control Systems .................................................................................................................................. 8
2.5 LED Housing ........................................................................................................................................ 9
2.6 Battery Housing................................................................................................................................... 9
2.7 Battery Housing Design ....................................................................................................................... 9
2.8 Waterproof Hose .............................................................................................................................. 10
3 Build Process ............................................................................................................................................ 11
3.1 Battery............................................................................................................................................... 11
Step 1: 3d Printing............................................................................................................................... 12
Step 2: Fitting 18650 Cells................................................................................................................... 13
Step 3: Spot Welding the Cells ............................................................................................................ 15
Step 4: Assembling Caps ..................................................................................................................... 17
Step 5: Finishing the Battery ............................................................................................................... 20
3.3 Boost Converter Assembly ................................................................................................................ 21
Step 1: 3d Printing............................................................................................................................... 21
Step 2: Mounting Boost Converter ..................................................................................................... 21
Step 3: Wiring/Configuring Boost Converter ...................................................................................... 22
Step 4: Combining Battery with Boost Converter Assembly .............................................................. 22
3.2 LED Housing ...................................................................................................................................... 23
Step 1: Manufacturing Components ................................................................................................... 24
Step 2: Measuring Hose Length .......................................................................................................... 27
Step 3: Assembly ................................................................................................................................. 27
3.3 Battery Housing................................................................................................................................. 28
Step 1: Manufacturing Components ................................................................................................... 28
 Step 2: Assembling Lid ........................................................................................................................ 32
Step 3: O-Rings .................................................................................................................................... 32
Step 4: Assembling Connectors .......................................................................................................... 33
3.4 Final Assembly................................................................................................................................... 34
Step 1: Attaching Toggle Latches ........................................................................................................ 34
Step 2: Attaching Latch Hooks ............................................................................................................ 35
Step 3: Fitting the Battery Core .......................................................................................................... 35
Step 4: Assembling Connectors .......................................................................................................... 36
Step 5: Mounting ................................................................................................................................ 37
3.5 Charger .............................................................................................................................................. 37
Step 1: Assembling Charger ................................................................................................................ 37
Step 2: Configuring Charger ................................................................................................................ 38
4.0 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................................. 39
References .................................................................................................................................................. 40
List of Figures

Figure 1: Diagram illustrating how beam angle affects light dispersion. [1] .............................................. 7
Figure 2: Diagram illustrating the positions of the Threaded Rod Hole and Wire Hole. .......................... 12
Figure 3: Diagram illustrating the arrangement of the cells inside the cell spacer. .................................. 13
Figure 4: Diagram illustrating the side view of the cells inside the spacers. ............................................. 14
Figure 5: Diagram illustrating the spot-welding pattern for the cells. ...................................................... 15
Figure 6: Diagram illustrating balance lead wiring. ................................................................................. 16
Figure 7: Diagram illustrating the positions of the nut holes in the battery cap. ...................................... 17
Figure 8: Diagram illustrating the position of the threaded rods. ............................................................. 18
Figure 9: Exploded view of the battery. ...................................................................................................... 19
Figure 10: Final picture of the battery core. .............................................................................................. 20
Figure 11: Electrical diagram for wiring the boost (BST) converter. ........................................................ 22
Figure 12: LED housing body schematics. ................................................................................................. 24
Figure 13: LED housing screen cap schematics......................................................................................... 25
Figure 14: LED housing screen schematics. .............................................................................................. 26
Figure 15: Battery housing body schematics. ............................................................................................. 29
Figure 16: Battery housing cap schematics. ............................................................................................... 30
Figure 17: Switch cover schematics. .......................................................................................................... 31
Figure 18: Electrical diagram for wiring the lid connectors. .................................................................... 33
Figure 19: Diagram illustrating the latch’s position relative to the upper edge of the battery housing. ... 34
Figure 20: Diagram illustrating the correct positioning of the threaded lid holes. ................................... 35
Figure 21: Electrical diagram for wiring the battery core connectors. ..................................................... 36
Figure 22: Electrical diagram for wiring the charger. .............................................................................. 38
Disclaimer
This document is an account of the steps taken to design and build one instance of the
“Eyebleach” underwater flood light, written in an instructional format. It is for educational use
only. Nothing written or pictured in this document should be replicated. By attempting to
replicate anything in this document, you are assuming all risk that comes with doing so. The
manufacturing process requires the use of industrial machines that can cause serious injury or
death. This document is not a substitute for proper training with any of the machines, materials,
and concepts written, referenced, or implied. The design showcased in this document has not
been sufficiently tested and cannot be considered safe to build or use.

This design document is not to be used for anything other than educational purposes. Using this
design, or elements of it, for commercial purposes is forbidden without explicit written consent.

Summary
The objective of this document is to outline the design decisions and steps taken to build one
instance of the “Eyebleach” underwater flood light. The underwater flood light is a submersible
light source designed for illuminating sections of underwater terrain. It is intended to be operated
in conjunction with SCUBA, and used for underwater photography/videography applications.

The “Eyebleach” underwater flood light, henceforth also referred to as “the light”, has the
following specifications: constant 22,000 lumen output for 1 hour, functional at pressures up to
4.42 atm, and toggleable ON/OFF while underwater. The light consists of an aluminum head and
a Delrin body. The head houses the LED and is attached via hose to the body which supplies the
power. The body houses the rechargeable battery, power regulator, and ON/OFF switch. The
head is worn on the user’s hand, and the body is attached to the BCD either on the hips or around
the waist.

The light is made from a mixture of 3d printed and machined parts. A lathe and mill are used to
manufacture the LED housing and battery housing. All electronics are off the shelf. The total
cost of this project is $500 CAD, however this does not factor in labor, pre existing materials and
tools, or transportation costs.
1.0 Introduction
The light is based on a canister design, consisting of a head attached via cord to the body. The
head houses the LED and is attached via hose to the body which supplies the power. The body
houses the rechargeable battery, power regulator, and ON/OFF switch. The head is worn on the
user’s hand, and the body is attached to the BCD either on the hips or around the waist. It is
intended to be used by individuals along side SCUBA units. When not in use, the lumen output
can be adjusted from 1000 lumens to 22000 lumens, via the power regulator. A wide beam angle
of 115 degrees coupled with the powerful emitter makes the light ideal for illuminating
underwater landscapes.

2.0 Design Decisions

2.1 LED
A Samsung SPHWHAHDNM231ZT3D3 COB LED is used in this design. This LED has a high
lumen per watt output, even light dispersion, and wide beam angle which makes it ideal for
underwater photography applications. A single COB LED is preferred over an array of smaller
LEDs for its simplicity and even light dispersion. It is also superior to HID bulbs due to its size
and lifespan.

2.2 Beam Angle and Lumens

A common misconception about flashlight brightness is that higher lumens mean a higher
brightness. In reality it is lux, or lumens per square meter, that dictates the brightness of a
flashlight. It is affected by a combination of beam angle and emitter lumen output.

It is helpful to think of lux as covering a surface with paint. If a bucket of paint fully covers a
certain area, then to cover double that area with the same amount of paint, the paint would have
to be spread twice as thin. The same happens with light.

Beam angle effects how wide, and how quickly, the light from the emitter spreads out (Figure 1).
A narrow beam angle means light spreads out slowly, where a wide beam angle means light
spreads out very quickly. This also means that the wider the beam angle, the wider the surface
area will be that the light has to cover.

Figure 1: Diagram illustrating how beam angle affects light dispersion. [1]

In underwater photography, for which this light is designed, it is often required to light up
underwater landscapes. For this, a wide beam angle is necessary, as well as high lux. The most
common beam angle in underwater photography lighting is 115 degrees. This is an extremely
wide beam angle, meaning light disperses quickly. This also means in order to maintain a high
lux, ~100 lumens per square meter, an emitter with high lumen output is necessary.

A 115-degree beam angle is used as it is most common in the industry. At 5 meters away from
the emitter, the surface area illuminated is 193 square meters. The Samsung COB LED chosen
for this design is set to output 22,000 lumens, which gives it a lux of ~114. This lux is ideal, and
the reason why the combination of 115-degree beam angle and 22,000 lumen emitter output is
used. The lux can be adjusted before a dive depending on the requirements of the user.

2.3 Cells
The LED used requires 50V and 2.2A to output the desired 22,000 lumens. Samsung 30Q 18650
cells are used due to their compact size, high capacity, and low cost compared to other cells
available.
The 18650 cell’s size make them ideal for this application. The battery must be as compact as
possible. The bigger a battery is, the more clunky and non-user-friendly it becomes. Using the
18650 cells, it is possible to arrange them in a circular pattern which results in a more compact
arrangement than what is possible with other cells.

The cells are arranged in a 4 series 3 parallel configuration, as using 12 cells is what has the best
size to power ratio. The battery pack has a 3.5-inch diameter, which is on the larger end of what
is seen in industry. The battery pack utilizes a battery management system to safely charge and
discharge the cells, as well as adding protection against short circuit events. A 6s2p or 12s1p
arrangement could be made with 12 cells, but there are no BMS circuits small enough to fit in
the diameter. Similarly, 2s6p, 3s4p, or 1s12p could be made but there are no boost converters
able to convert such a low input voltage to the necessary 50V output for the LED.

18650 cells must also find a balance between capacity and maximum continuous discharge. The
maximum continuous discharge rating is the most current that can be drawn from the cells before
damaging them. With a continuous discharge rating of 15A, and a maximum current draw of
2.2A from the LED, the cells are more than able to safely provide the necessary current. Due to
the low current draw of the LED, it could be possible to use Samsung 35E cells. They have a
capacity of 3500 mAh, compared to the 30Q’s 3000 mAh, and a maximum discharge rating of
8A. This would result in a longer lasting and/or brighter light, however they are more expensive
than the 30Q cells and outside the budget for this project.

2.4 Control Systems

The LED needs an LED driver, which regulates the amount of current the LED is allowed to
draw from the battery. It also needs 50V to operate, which the 12 cells cannot provide directly.

LEDs tend to pull as much current as possible from a power source, which can damage the
circuit. The brightness is controlled by the current provided, and a certain constant voltage is
needed in order to emit light. LED drivers limit the current an LED can draw, as well as setting
the necessary voltage.

Providing the LED with 50V is done using a boost converter. This brings the low voltage high
current battery input to a high voltage low current output for the LED. The LED driver and boost
converter are found in the form of a single module, who’s output can be adjusted.
2.5 LED Housing
The head of the flashlight, which holds the LED, must be waterproof and conduct heat.
Aluminum is used for its cost effectiveness, high heat capacity, and low corrosion in water.

The screen of the flashlight is made from acrylic instead of glass, which is typically used in such
applications. Cast acrylic is up to 10 times more impact resistant than glass, and costs less per
square foot. It is easier to cut to shape, using a laser cutter. The major downside of acrylic is its
comparatively low deformation point of 82 Celsius. At a maximum operating temperature of less
than 50 Celsius, the LED will not be able to heat up the acrylic sufficiently to cause damage
while underwater. It could cause damage if turned on above water, however this is true of all
lights regardless of the screen material used, as the LED would damage itself as well.

2.6 Battery Housing

The housing for the battery is made from two components, a lid and a canister. The assembly is
made from black Delrin, and connected to the LED housing via waterproof cable.

The canister is made from a hollowed out solid round of black Delrin. One end of the canister
remains closed, and the other open for the lid to press into. Black Delrin was chosen for its low
cost compared to other plastics, UV resistance, strength, and machinability.

The lid seals the canister, and houses the ON/OFF switch for the light. It has two O-Rings for
redundancy, and press fits into the canister. There are two toggle latches that keep it from
coming off. The switch is waterproofed with a rubber cover, which seals against the surface of
the lid. The entire switch is encased in silicone within its own compartment in the lid. This
ensures that even if the switch cover fails, water cannot seep into the rest of the battery. If water
forces the switch to be stuck open, the flashlight will run until the battery drains at which point it
can be safely removed from the water.

2.7 Battery Housing Design

The light is designed with the power source separated from the LED. This is commonly known
as a “canister light” design. A canister light design was ideal in this application due to the size of
the battery and controls. While it would be possible to fit both the battery and LED into one rigid
unit, this unit would prove bulky and difficult to control. Instead, the battery housing can be
mounted out of the way, and the much lighter LED housing can be manipulated separately.
A major downside of this design is the hose connecting the two housings together. It could pose
a snag hazard underwater, although with proper hose routing on the BCD, it can be stowed
safely.

2.8 Waterproof Hose

The waterproof hose, which connects the LED housing to the battery housing, is made from air
hose components. Bulk air hose has an operating temperature ranging from -40 to 88 degrees
Celsius, and a pressure rating of 300 psi. The operating limits are much higher than anything
possible to encounter within most SCUBA applications. The stock airtight fittings come threaded
on NPT, which makes it easy to acquire the necessary taps. These factors make it the ideal
solution to making a fixed waterproof connection between the two housings.
3 Build Process
This section outlines the materials, tools, and techniques used to build the light. It is written in an
instructional format, as it is easiest to convey what was done using this style. This should NOT
be interpreted a set of instructions to follow, and what is written should not be replicated in any
way.

3.1 Battery
The components for the battery are:
1) 12 Samsung 30Q 18650 3000mAh 15A cells
2) 1 4s 30A 14.8v PCB BMS
3) 6 M2x0.4 hex nuts
4) 3 M2x0.4 x 85mm threaded rods
5) 1 Roll 0.15*8mm nickel strip
6) 1 Roll black 16-gauge copper wire
7) 1 Roll red 16-gauge copper wire
8) 1 Pack assorted multicolored 18-gague copper wire
9) 1 Pack assorted head shrink tubing
10) 1 Packet blue tack
11) 1 Roll electrical tape
12) 1 Thread lock red
The tools for the battery are:
1) 3d Printer
2) PETG filament
3) Soldering iron
4) Electrical solder
5) Battery spot welder
6) Heat gun/lighter
7) Multimeter
8) Sandpaper
Step 1: 3d Printing
The first step is 3d printing the STL files from PETG plastic. The wall thickness should be set to
1mm, and infill density to 30%. The increased wall thickness will become useful later when
fitting the hex nuts, threaded rods, and screws.

Ensure that the 18-gague wires and M2x0.4 x 85mm threaded rods easily fit through their
respective holes in the Cell Spacer (Figure 2). The M2x0.4 x 85mm threaded rods should have
significant clearance, as they will be wrapped in heat shrink tubing later. The holes for the wire
and threaded rod can be expanded with a drill if needed.

Figure 2: Diagram illustrating the positions of the Threaded Rod Hole and Wire Hole.
Step 2: Fitting 18650 Cells
The cells should go into the cell spacer snugly. If a cell does not fit, sandpaper can be used to
carefully take off some material from the hole until the cell fits.

The cells must be arranged in the following configuration within the cell spacer (Figure 3). This
will be the top of the assembly.

Figure 3: Diagram illustrating the arrangement of the cells inside the cell spacer.
Once the cells are fitted, press fit the other cell spacer on the bottom (Figure 4).

Figure 4: Diagram illustrating the side view of the cells inside the spacers.
Step 3: Spot Welding the Cells
The cells must be spot welded together using nickel strips. The battery uses a 4s3p configuration.
There are 4 cells clusters made from 3 individual cells wired in parallel. These 4 cell clusters are
then wired in series.

Each of these cell clusters must be spot welded together at the top and bottom. Start by spot
welding the top of the assembly, as shown in (Figure 5).

Figure 5: Diagram illustrating the spot-welding pattern for the cells .

Connect and spot weld in the exact same spots on the bottom as well. This will complete the 4
cell clusters.
The cell clusters must be spot welded in series, as per the diagram below (Figure 6). Since a
BMS is being used to manage the battery during charge and discharge, it is also important to
remember which series connection corresponds to which balance wires.

The BMS has 7 soldering pads. B-, B1, B2, B3, B+, P-, and P+. P- and P+ are the main charge
and discharge terminals, and can be ignored for now. The balance wires are connected to the
series bridges between cell clusters, and go from lowest voltage B- to highest voltage B+.
Voltage increases with each series connection.

Figure 6: Diagram illustrating balance lead wiring .

Each of the series bridges requires its own colour coded wire coming off it, that will be soldered
to the respective pads on the BMS. B1 and B3 are spot welded on the BOTTOM of the
assembly ONLY. The wires coming off them are fed through the holes in the cell spacers to
the top. Cover all exposed metal with electrical tape, keeping the threaded rod holes clear.

Step 4: Assembling Caps

The battery has two caps to cover the wiring and hold the BMS. The top cap (Figure 7) must be
fitted with three M2x0.4 Hex Nuts. Heat up the nut, and press it flat into the hole so the top of
the nut is just below the surface of the cap. Repeat for all 3 holes.

Figure 7: Diagram illu strating the positions of the nut holes in the battery cap.
Insert the threaded rods into the pegs (Figure 8). The holes are intentionally undersized, so the
rods thread the holes as they are twisted in. Drop red thread lock into the nuts, and continue
twisting the rods until the end of each rod is flush with the top face of the nuts.

Figure 8: Diagram illustrating the position of the threaded rods .

Cover the rods with heat shrink tubing. Pull the balance wires through their respective holes in
the cap, and push the cap and rods through the cell assembly.
Slide the other cap over the rods that stick out of the bottom of the cell assembly, and tighten it
with 3 more hex nuts (Figure 9).

Figure 9: Exploded view of the battery .

Step 5: Finishing the Battery
The final step is to wire in the BMS. Attach the BMS via blue tack to the top of the battery core.
Trim the balance wires to length and solder to the appropriate pads. The final product should
look like this (Figure 10).

Figure 10: Final picture of the battery core.

3.3 Boost Converter Assembly
The components for the boost converter assembly are:
1) 1 400W DC 8.5-50v to DC 10-60v boost converter
2) 4 M2x0.4 x 10mm socket-head screws
3) 1 Roll black 16-gauge copper wire
4) 1 Roll red 16-gauge copper wire
5) 1 Roll electrical tape
The tools for the boost converter assembly are:
1) 3d Printer
2) PETG filament
3) Soldering iron
4) Electrical solder
5) Multimeter
6) Heat gun/lighter

Step 1: 3d Printing
The first step is 3d printing the STL files PETG plastic. The wall thickness should be set to 1mm,
and infill density to 30%. The increased wall thickness will become useful later when fitting the
screws.

Step 2: Mounting Boost Converter

Place the boost converter inside the boost converter cradle, with the input facing the notch.
Mark the position of the holes in the board on the boost converter cradle, then remove the
converter.
Using a lighter or heat gun, heat up the M2 screws, and push them into the cradle at the marked
positions.
One the screws have cooled off, unscrew them.
Screw the boost converter on, making sure the input is facing the notch in the cradle.
Step 3: Wiring/Configuring Boost Converter
Wire the boost converter as shown in the diagram below (Figure 11). Do NOT attach the Tamiya
connectors yet. Leave extra wire length for soldering the connectors later in the process. Cover
the exposed wire ends in electrical tape.
Use a multimeter to configure the output of the boost converter, by turning the corresponding
potentiometers. The voltage must be set to 50v. The brightness is affected by the current passing
through the LED, which has an output of 176 lumen/watt. Divide the desired lumen output by
8800, and set that as the current. Lumen outputs over ~18,000 lumens cause significant heat
losses and will require enhanced heat dissipation in the boost converter. This is not covered in
the design document.

Figure 11: Electrical diagram for wiring the boost (BST) converter.

Step 4: Combining Battery with Boost Converter Assembly

Wrap the inside edge of the converter cradle with electrical tape.
Align the converter cradle notch with the notch in the battery lid.
Solder the positive and negative terminals in the above scheme (Figure 11) to the P- and P+ ports
on the BMS.
Press fit the converter cradle into the battery lid. This assembly will henceforth be referred to as
the battery core.
3.2 LED Housing
The components for the LED housing are:
1) 1 2.5 inch diameter aluminum round
2) 6 M3x0.5 x 25 mm socket-head screw
3) 2 M4x0.7 x 12 mm pan-head screw
4) 1 Samsung SPHWHAHDNM231ZT3D3 COB LED
5) 6in x 6in 3/16 inch cast acrylic sheet
6) 1 032 Nitrile O-Ring
7) 1 031 Nitrile O-Ring
8) 1 Roll black 16-gauge copper wire
9) 1 Roll red 16-gauge copper wire
10) 1 ¼ NPT Air hose barb fitting + compression sleeve
11) 6 Feet of bulk air hose
12) 1 Tube thermal paste
13) 1 Roll Teflon tape

The tools for the LED housing are:

1) Lathe
2) 3 Axis Mill
3) M3x0.5 tap + drill bit
4) M4x0.7 tap + drill bit
5) ¼ NPT tap + drill bit
6) Calipers
7) Laser Cutter
8) Sandpaper
9) Metal File
10) Hex Keys
11) Isopropyl Alcohol
12) Cotton Swab
Step 1: Manufacturing Components
The first step is to build the components as per the schematics below (Figure 12, Figure 13,
Figure 14)

Figure 12: LED housing body schematics.

Figure 13: LED housing screen cap schematics.
Figure 14: LED housing screen schematics.
Step 2: Measuring Hose Length
Stretch your arm out directly in front of you. Hold one end of the air line, and with your other
hand route it along your body to roughly where your canister will sit on your BCD. Add 6 inches
to this length, and cut the hose. If you find it is too long after diving with it, you may shorten it
as needed.
Run a length of red and black 16-gauge copper wire through the inside of the air hose, leaving 3
inches sticking out at either end.

Step 3: Assembly
The two notched corners of the LED must be expanded to accommodate the diameter of the M4
bolts. This may be done with a small rat tail metal file.
Apply Teflon tape to the thread of the air hose fitting, and screw it into the body. Feed the wires
through it and slide the air hose onto the barb.
Solder the LED onto the wires.
Apply thermal paste to the bottom of the LED, and push it down to the bottom face of the
housing’s body. Make sure the notches align with the M4 threaded holes in the face. The wires
can be fed under the LED through the slots.
Screw the LED into place using the two M4 screws.
Clean the LED using isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab.
Place the 031 O-Ring into the O-Ring groove on the housing’s body.
Place the acrylic screen into the housing’s body.
Place the 032 O-Ring into the O-Ring groove on the bottom of the screen cap.
Press the screen cap into the housing’s body.
Attach the screen cap to the housing body using the six M3 screws. There will be a slight visible
gap between the screen cap and body. This is normal as the tolerances for 3/16 inch acrylic vary.
The seal is not affected by this.
3.3 Battery Housing
The components for the battery housing are:
1) 1 4 inch diameter x 12 inch length black Delrin round
2) 1 Waterproof switch cover
3) 1 50A On/Off paddle toggle switch
4) 1 3/16 inch Nitrile O-ring cord
5) 1 238 Nitrile O-ring
6) 1 Tube RTV silicone sealant
7) 8 10-24 UNF x 3/4in brass pan head screws
8) 4 10-24 UNF nylon locknuts
9) 2 M2x0.4 x 10mm socket-head screws
10) 2 Female Tamiya connectors
11) 1 Male Tamiya connector
12) 1 Roll black 16-gauge copper wire
13) 1 Roll red 16-gauge copper wire
14) 1 1/4 NPT air hose barb fitting + compression sleeve
15) 6in x 6in sheet 1/8 inch thick cast acrylic
16) 2 Toggle latch assemblies
17) 2 6 inch diameter hose clamps
18) 2 ½ inch diameter heat shrink tubes

The tools for the battery housing are:

1) Lathe
2) 3 Axis Mill
3) Flat head screwdriver
4) 10-24 UNF tap + drill bit
5) M2x0.4 tap + drill bit
6) ¼ NPT tap + drill bit
7) Soldering iron
8) Electrical solder
9) Plastic adhesive
10) Cyanoacrylate adhesive

Step 1: Manufacturing Components

The first step is to build the components as per the schematics below (Figure 15, Figure 16,
Figure 17). For the battery housing body, although the schematics show to turn it down to a 4
inch outside diameter, it is best to leave it as whatever diameter it came stock. These diameters
are usually oversized slightly, i.e. the round comes wider than 4 inches, and leaving it as is will
provide extra material to strengthen the walls.
Figure 15: Battery housing body schematics.
Figure 16: Battery housing cap schematics .
Figure 17: Switch cover schematics.
Step 2: Assembling Lid
Cut down the terminals of the 50A toggle switch.
Sand down the switch so that it fits inside the waterproof switch cover.
Solder two black 16-gague copper wires to both switch terminals, and feed them through the
holes in the switch cover.
Fill the cavity with RTV silicone sealant slightly past the brim.
Press the cover into its slot and screw in the two M2 screws, wiping away any excess silicone.
Screw in the air hose barb.
Using the air hose attached to the LED housing, feed the wires through the barb and push on the
air hose.
Screw on the waterproof switch cover onto the exposed switch thread, so that it seals on the
surface of the lid.
Put the switch into the OFF position, and label it on the cap using a paint pen.

Step 3: O-Rings
Cut a length of 3/16 nitrile O-Ring cord that is equal to the circumference of the inside groove
minus the diameter of the O-Ring.
Apply cyanoacrylate adhesive to both ends and press them together.
Clean up any crust around the seam.
Insert the newly made O-Ring into the lower groove.
Place the 238 O-ring on the bottom of the lid.
Step 4: Assembling Connectors
Glue two female Tamiya connectors side by side.
Solder the Tamiya pins on the exposed wires.
Connect the wires as per the diagram below (Figure 18).

Figure 18: Electrical diagram for wiring the lid connectors .

3.4 Final Assembly

Step 1: Attaching Toggle Latches

The toggle latches used in this design are made with low precision. Because of this, it is difficult
to decisively position threaded holes in the schematic. The positioning of the holes must be done
on a case by case basis.
Position a toggle latch flat against the outside of the canister, with the top of the latch sitting 35
mm below the opening of the canister (Figure 19).
Using a paint pen, mark the centers of the holes.
Drill and tap through holes with 10-24 UNF thread.
Repeat this process again on the other side, ensuring the faces of the latches are parallel.

Figure 19: Diagram illustrating the latch’s position relative to the upper edge of the battery
housing.
Step 2: Attaching Latch Hooks
Bend the hooks slightly, so they follow the curvature of the lid.
Press the lid into the canister.
Align the hooks with the latches, with the top of the hooks 5mm below the top edge of the lid.
Using a paint pen, mark the centers of the holes.
Drill and tap the holes 15mm deep with 10-24 UNF thread. Since this is a blind hole, only tap the
first 10mm. The holes must be drilled perpendicular to the circumference of the lid (Figure 20).

Figure 20: Diagram illustrating the correct positioning of the threaded lid holes.

Step 3: Fitting the Battery Core

3d printing tends to have higher tolerance runouts than other manufacturing methods. Because of
this, some extra work may be required to allow the battery core inside the battery housing. The
outside of the battery core can be sanded down until it fits within the battery housing snugly.
Alternatively, the inside diameter of the battery housing, below 25mm from the opening, can be
expanded until the battery core fits as is.
Place the battery core inside the battery housing, with the wires coming out of the open end.
Apply Teflon tape to the 10-24 screws.
Attach the two toggle latches using the 10-24 screws, so that the heads of the screws are on the
outside of the canister.
Tighten the 10-24 nylon locknuts from the inside.
Feed the wires coming out of the battery core through the holes in the battery core cover.
Align the screw holes in the battery core cover with the posts in the battery core, and screw in the
six M2 screws.

Step 4: Assembling Connectors

The charging port is female and the connectors for the lid are male. This is done so the charging
cable cannot be accidentally plugged into the lid. It is also impossible to accidentally plug the
charger into the output of the boost converter.
Glue two male Tamiya connectors side by side.
Solder the Tamiya pins on the exposed wires.
Connect the wires as per the diagram below (Figure 21).

Figure 21: Electrical diagram for wiring the battery core connectors.
Step 5: Mounting
The final step is to adjust the toggle latches. This can be done by turning clockwise to make them
tighter, or counterclockwise to make them looser. The latches should pull the lid firmly into the
battery housing body, compressing the top O-Ring. It should slightly compress the O-Ring, as
more force could damage the assembly.

Mounting the battery housing depends entirely on the BCD. Sidemount and backmount BCDs
will have very different mounting methods. Regardless of the BCD, two hose clamps wrapped in
heat shrink tubing are the best way to mounting methods to the canister. Positioning the hose
clamps depends on what is most ideal for the given BCD.

3.5 Charger
The components for the charger are:
1) 1 100-240v IN / 24.0V 2.1A OUT power supply
2) 1 Buck converter w screen module
3) 1 Roll black 16-gauge copper wire
4) 1 Roll red 16-gauge copper wire
5) 1 Male Tamiya plug

The tools for the charger are:

1) Flat head screwdriver
2) Soldering iron
3) Electrical solder
4) Plastic adhesive
5) 3d Printer (optional)

Step 1: Assembling Charger

This design greatly benefits from a buck converter with a built-in screen. This will allow the user
to monitor the charge in real time, without having to solder in additional screens or use a
multimeter.
Since 100-240v IN / 24.0V 2.1A OUT power supplies are very numerous on the market, and
come in different shapes and sizes, it is hard to give specific build details for the case. Following
the wiring diagram below (Figure 22) is most important, as the case design depends on the
builder’s preference. A 3d printer is the easiest way to design and make the case.
 Figure 22: Electrical diagram for wiring the charger.

Step 2: Configuring Charger

When configuring your boost converter to charge, there are some things to consider. The higher
voltage the battery is charged to, the longer it will last. Lithium-ion cells take longer to charge
the higher the cell voltage gets. The BMS should automatically cut off at 16.8V, but to be safe,
the battery should not be charged past 16.4V.

The current at which the battery is charged also matters. A low current will take a longer time to
charge, and a current that is too high will damage the battery. A current of 2A is ideal to charge
the battery, however it is ultimately up to the user to decide the charging current.
4.0 Conclusion
This iteration of the “Eyebleach” underwater flood light has the potential to be a practical
SCUBA photography/videography light. Its high lux, wide surface area illumination, burn time,
and size contribute to its usefulness and viability as more than just a proof of concept.

It does, however, have several significant drawbacks. The main issues are the lack of underwater
configuration options, as well as inefficient heat transfer. Since I have not studied
thermodynamics as of writing this document, the heat dissipation elements in this design were
not as efficient as possible. Going forward, it would be possible to design a more efficient heat
sync for the LED which would increase burn time, light output, and the lifespan of the emitter.
The light is also rigid in terms of underwater configuration. Although the brightness can be
adjusted on land, the user is stuck with whatever brightness they set the entire dive. It would be
very useful to adjust the brightness as required underwater, but this requires custom PCB design
which was outside the scope of this project. A way to adjust the beam angle would also be
useful, but this would require a knowledge of optics which I do not yet possess.

Overall, while this design can be further improved in several ways, the light is still viable for
underwater photography/videography.
References
1) McLeod, Dean. “How to light Photography Prints and Artwork.”
deanmcleodphotography, www.deanmcleodphotography.com/gallery/6-tips-to-light-
your-art-like-a-pro/. Accessed 27 March 2023.