17 electricalOKservman

TL960 SERVICE MANUAL
Electrical
The 12-volt negative ground system is standard on the Thomas
bus. Two Group 31 batteries are standard; however, several
options are available to obtain additional battery power where
needed.
All standard wiring is color coded and numbered for each circuit.
The numbers are marked several inches apart throughout the
length of the circuit. The exceptions to this are the shielded
cables used for the speedometer and the datalink connections.
Two electrical compartments are located on the bus to house the

various components involved in energizing and protecting each
circuit, such as circuit breakers, flashers, relays, terminal blocks,
buzzers, ground and power studs.
The main electrical compartment located at the left front corner

of the bus, beneath the driver's sash, controls chassis and body
related systems at the front of the bus and in the driver's area.
Two electrical panels are located in this compartment: 1) forward
or front panel controls chassis systems, 2) rear panel controls
body related systems. A heavy duty 12-volt contactor relays
power to each panel when the ignition is switched on.
A second electrical compartment is located in the engine

compartment. It is to the left of the engine and has the rear start
switches mounted on its face. The hinged door, once opened,
reveals the controls for most items in the engine compartment.
Page 17-1
Figure 1 is an installation drawing of the forward (chassis) panel

in the front electrical compartment. The application for
Caterpillar engines is shown. For other engines refer to the
TL960 Electrical Wiring Manual.
The circuit breakers attached to the front buss bar on the heavy
duty contactors are HOT all the time, as long as the 150 amp
master circuit breaker is not OPEN (tripped). All other circuit
breakers are also powered by the 12-volt contactors, but only
when the ignition switch is closed.
Most ground circuits are WHITE in color.
The various relays used in the front compartment are mounted

on a bar at the top of the panel. Relays for antilock brakes,
fuel/water heater, and key ignition are located in the rear
electrical module.
Figure 2 shows the various relays that may be used on your bus
some of which are options installed at customer request. All
relays are marked for easy identification. The views shown in
Figure 2 indicate the circuit number that is connected to each
post on the relay.
Figure 3 represents the components in the rear electrical

module located in the engine compartment on Cummins ISC
powered buses. See the CNG section of this manual for
information on Cummins CNG equipped engines.
Figure 4 represents the components in the rear electrical

module on Caterpillar powered buses.
Figure 5 is a schematic of the chassis related systems on

Cummins ISC powered buses. Figure 6 and Figure 7 show
circuits that tie in directly with the Electronic Control Module
(ECM).
The column at the extreme left side of the schematic represents

the ECM. The connectors that tie into the ECM are lettered A, B,
C, D, etc.
Figure 8 is a schematic of the chassis related systems on
Page 17-2
Caterpillar powered buses. Figure 9 and Figure 10 show

circuits as they related to the ECM.
Listed here are some abbreviations that will be used throughout

this section. This should help in locating certain components.
Abbreviation Explanation
C.B. Circuit Breaker
Gnd Ground
TB Terminal Block
HOT power stud Has 12 volts all the time when the 150 amp
master circuit breaker is Closed.
Cold Ign. Has 12 volts only when ignition switch is
ON.
FRT Indicates front electrical panel.
Rear Indicates rear electrical module, in engine
compartment.
Pnl Refers to an electrical panel, front or rear.
Sw Switch
SP Side panel
Modular box Rear electrical panel in engine
compartment.
ECM Electronic Control Module (on engine)
Indicate #4 post on terminal block 1, front
panel.
Diode
If help is needed on any circuit, or option not covered in the

manual, feel free to contact your local Thomas dealer for help.
Page 17-3
Figure 1
Page 17-4
Figure 2
Page 17-5
Figure 3
Page 17-6
TL960 Chassis Electrical Schematic

Inside
Figure 4
Page 17-7
Figure 5
Page 17-8
Figure 6
Page 17-9
Figure 7
Page 17-10
Figure 8
Page 17-11
Figure 9
Page 17-12
Figure 10
Page 17-13
General Recommendations - Maintenance and Repair
The following comments may be helpful in avoiding some of the

most common problems experienced over the life of the bus.
1. Shorts in Cables and Harnesses:
Cables that chafe or dangle will eventually wear through
the insulation and result in a short. This can also cause
terminals to loosen at their terminal point. Many times a
mounting clip is removed to permit access to another
component or to service that particular harness/cable.
ALWAYS reinstall the mounting clips to their original
position.
2. Corrosion in Sockets and Terminals:
This can be a serious problem on units operating on
streets and highways using salt and sodium chloride
products.
The use of an anti-corrosive sealant, such as Graffo 116

to coat exposed connectors, switches, and ground
terminals, is very helpful in deterring corrosion in such
areas.
This Page Left Intentionally Blank.
The use of a dielectric grease to coat the base and
sockets of bulbs will deter the formation of corrosion in
lamps exposed to road contaminants. It, also, reduces
road shock in the bulb filaments.
3. Circuit Resistance:
Circuit resistance is usually caused by loose terminals at
the point of termination, improper crimping of replacement
terminals onto the wire, and unprofessional splicing of two
wires together.
Practically all replacement terminals require a special tool

to insure a complete, secure bond of the terminal and the
wire. If the proper crimping tool is not available, the
terminal should be soldered to the wire, using a rosin flux
solder. Always cover the end of the terminal with a one
inch piece of heat shrink tubing to prevent the entrance of
water, salt, etc.
Twisting the wires together is acceptable only if the union

is then soldered with rosin flux solder, and covered with a
Page 17-14
heat shrink tubing extending one inch on each side of the

union. Butt splices are also common in such a repair.
Again, cover the splice with heat shrink tubing.
Wiring left improperly sealed will corrode, and the

corrosion can wick up the entire length of the wire. Figure
11 is an example of the proper way to splice two wires
together.
Figure 11
4. Overloaded Circuits:
Additional electrical components should not be added to
existing circuits. There is room for additional circuit
breakers on the side electrical panel, if additional options
are added in the field.
5. Proper Diagnosis:
Thorough diagnosis is a must to eliminate repeat failures
in the electrical system. Determining the cause of a
particular failure not only solves the problem on the unit
involved, but it may be helpful in preventing failures on
other similar units in the fleet.
In the event a particular circuit breaker continues to trip,

even though no short is found, it would be wise to check
the circuit flow on that circuit and compare it to the rating
of the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker may be tripping
below its rating, or the current draw may be in excess of
the breaker rating.
To check current draw on any given circuit, connect an

ammeter in series between the circuit and a battery
terminal. Energize the circuit and read the amps
registered on the ammeter.
Page 17-15
System Protection from Short Circuits
The electrical system has three means of protection from

damage due to a short circuit in the total system:
1. Each circuit is protected by an automatic resetting circuit
breaker. In some instances a circuit breaker may
accommodate more than one circuit; however, in no case
would the combined load be in excess of the rating of the
circuit breaker if all the circuits were energized at the
same time. In the event such a circuit breaker is tripping
all the time it will be necessary to check out each circuit
using that circuit breaker.
2. There is one, or more, 150-amp manual-reset Master
Circuit Breaker(s) located on the rear electrical panel,
depending on the application. This will protect the
electrical system from damage that may occur from a
major short in any area not protected by a fuse or
automatic circuit breaker. This circuit breaker(s) must be
manually reset in the event it trips. When the breaker
trips, the small RED button will depress. To reset, move
the small black lever located on the left side of the
breaker back against the body of the breaker. When the
electrical system has to be taken out of service to make
other repairs, the master breaker can be tripped by
depressing the small RED button in the center of the
breaker.
In the event the Master Circuit Breaker should trip more

than once, the cause MUST be determined before placing
the bus back in service.
Testing for Voltage Drop
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a
connection or switch. See Figure 12.
1. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the end of the
wire (or to the side of the connection or switch) which is
closest to the battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or
the other side of the connection or switch).
3. Operate the circuit.
Figure 12
4. The voltmeter will show the difference in voltage between
Page 17-16
the two points. A difference (or drop) of more than one

volt indicates a problem.
Testing for Short to Ground
1. Remove the blown fuse, leaving the battery connected.

2. Connect the short finder across the fuse terminals.
3. Close all switches in series with the circuit you are
troubleshooting.
4. Operate the short finder. The short finder will pulse
current to the short. This creates a pulsing magnetic field
surrounding the circuit wiring between the fuse junction
block and the short.
5. Beginning at the fuse junction block, slowly move the
short finder meter along the circuit wiring. The meter will
show current pulses through sheet metal and body trim.
As long as the meter is between the fuse junction block
and the short, the needle will move with each current
pulse. When you have moved the meter past the point of
the short, the needle will stop moving. Examine the wiring
in that area for the short to ground. See Figure 13.
Checking Current Draw

Figure 13
1. Connected in series IN a circuit according to polarity.
2. Measures current flow.
3. Used in a closed circuit. See Figure 14.
Troubleshooting Tools
Electrical troubleshooting requires the use of common electrical

test equipment.
Test Light/Voltmeter:
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light is made up of
a 12-volt light bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding
one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit
where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes on, there
is voltage at the point being tested.
A voltmeter can be used instead of a test light. While a test light

shows whether or not voltage is present, a voltmeter indicates
Figure 14
Page 17-17
how much voltage is present.
Never use a test light on circuits that contain solid state

components, since damage to these components may result.
Jumper Wire:
A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to
a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Use it for
bypassing open circuits. Never use a jumper wire across any
load (motors, etc.). This direct battery short will blow the fuse.
Figure 15
See Figure 15.
Short Finder:
Short Finders are available to locate hidden shorts to ground.
The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted
circuit and shows you the location of the short through body trim
or sheet metal.
Troubleshooting Tests
Testing for Voltage:

1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground.
If you are using a voltmeter, be sure it is the voltmeter
negative lead that you have connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a
selected test point (connector or terminal).
3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you are
using a voltmeter, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery voltage. A loss of
Figure 16 more than one volt indicates a problem. See Figure 16.
Standard Headlight and Tail Light Circuitry
The headlight circuit incorporates a relay to protect the dimmer

switch contacts from high current flow. See Figure 17. The only
current passing through these contacts is the current required to
operate the relay, approximately one amp. The benefits of this
relay are as follows:
1. It protects the dimmer switch contacts from high current
flow.
2. With the headlights on HIGH beam, if the dimmer switch
should fail or if circuits #149 or #152 is interrupted for any
Page 17-18
reason, the headlights would automatically revert back to

LOW beam operation. This would enable the driver to
continue the trip until corrective repairs could be made.
3. The headlight relay is the same relay as used with the air
dryer, heated tank drains, and fuel water separator. In an
emergency any one of these could be substituted until a
replacement relay is installed.
Low Beam Operation
The schematic in Figure 17 shows the headlights in the LOW

beam mode. Power to the headlight switch comes from #4 circuit
breaker on the front row of circuit breakers in the side electrical
compartment through circuit #31 to the "B" post on the headlight
switch.
With the dimmer switch in the LOW beam position there is no

current to relay post #85 (through circuit #152). in LOW beam
position current flows to relay post #30 through circuit #32, relay
post #87A to circuit #52.
Figure 17
Page 17-19
High Beam Operation
The dimmer switch, located in the steering column, (Figure 18)

receives its current from the "H" post of the headlight switch
through circuit #149. When the dimmer switch is switched to
HIGH beam position, current passes through the dimmer switch
and circuit #152 to post #85 of the relay. This energizes the relay,
causing the relay to change current flow from post #87A to post
#87 and circuit #51 and the HIGH beams.
The HIGH beam indicator lamp is energized by circuit #39 from

the dimmer switch.
Figure 18
Tail/Marker Lights
See Headlight schematic, Figure 17. Circuit #34 from the

headlight switch to #3 post on the rear terminal block carries
current to the tail and marker lights.
Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher
Two distinct systems are involved in the turn signals and hazard
warning. The only thing in common is the use of the circuits and
the four lamps involved.
Turn Signals:
Power to the turn signal flasher comes from circuit breaker #9,
4th from the top on the rear bank of breakers, via circuit #53. A
diode is in that circuit. See Figure 19.
The turn signal flasher is located above terminal block #2, the
Page 17-20
rear block in the side panel.
Circuit #44 carries current from the flasher to the turn signal
switch in the steering column.
Replacement of the turn signal switch is covered under the

Telescopic/tilt column portion of the Steering section of this
manual.
Self canceling features are built into the switch and column. The
wiring numbers in the tilt column harness are not the same as
the Thomas circuit number; however, the mating numbers are
noted on Figure 19 if there is any doubt as to which circuit is to
be matched.
The 20 amp circuit breaker providing current for the turn signal
system is "HOT" only when the IGNITION switch is "ON". The 20
amp circuit breaker for the hazard system is "HOT" all the time,
as long as the master circuit breaker is closed.
Figure 19
Page 17-21
As an aside note, the first five circuit breakers on the front row of
breakers in the side panel are "HOT" all the time as long as the
master breaker is closed. All other breakers are active only when
the ignition switch is closed and the power relay (12 volt
contactor) is activated.
Circuits #42, #43 and #155, #156 connect the turn signal switch
to #5 and #6 posts on #2 terminal block (rear block located
below the turn signal flasher). Circuits to the front and rear lamps
are joined at these points.
Bulb #1157 should be used in the turn signal lamps at all times,
since proper bulb resistance is critical to the proper flashing rate.
Turn Signal Switch Replacement
1. Follow instructions in Steering Wheel Removal.

2. Remove upper cover and spring.
3. Remove horn contact plate by sliding it from shaft.
4. Remove upper and lower covers from the column
assembly.
Use a flat screw driver to pry them apart. They are held in
place by tight fitting grooves in tabs that slide over two
pins on each side of the assembly. See Figure 18.
Caution: Make Sure 5. Remove the two Allen screws that attach the switch
the master circuit breaker assembly to the main body, lift the switch assembly free
has been tripped before of the body. See Figure 20.
beginning any repairs in this
area. It is also wise to
remove all rings and your
watch before beginning the
repairs or troubleshooting.
Figure 20
Page 17-22
Remove the quick disconnect terminal blocks from the

switch assembly, remove the two phillips head screws
that attach the yellow switch to the metal part of the
switch.
6. Reverse above procedure to install the new switch.
Hazard Warning
The hazard warning light switch is located on the steering

column. Power for this system is provided by #6 circuit breaker
(next to the last breaker on the front row of breakers) via circuit
#54. The turn signal lamps will flash alternately when the hazard
flasher is energized. The hazard flasher is located in the upper
front corner of the side electrical panel, to which circuits #54 and
#46 are connected. See Figure 19.
Back-Up Lamp Circuits
Power for the back-up lamp circuit comes from the circuit
breaker #9. Circuit #67 connects the 20 amp circuit breaker with
the transmission reverse switch located in the transmission
shifter. Circuit #68 from the switch goes into a terminal block and
goes to the back up lamps on the engine door. See Figure 21.
Stop Lamp Circuits
Both stop light switches are located in the front side of the brake
application valve. Power for the stop light circuit breaker #5
located on the "HOT" buss bar, 4th down from the top. Circuit
Figure 21
Page 17-23
#59 carries current from the circuit breaker to the front brake
switch, and is connected to the rear brake switch by jumper 61.
Jumper #62 ties the two switches together on the output side,
where #60 is connected to the #7 post on the rear terminal block
in the side electrical panel. Body circuits for the front and rear
stop lamps are connected to this same post.
The two stop light switches are parallel wired to ensure the stop
lights will operate in the event one brake system or one switch
may fail. See Figure 22.
Instruments Circuits
The instruments light circuits are not detailed herein, other than
as shown on schematics, Figure 5 for Cummins Engines and
Figure 8 for Caterpillar Engines.
Each instrument light grounds through the socket body. Current

for the instrument lights is provided by circuit #36 from the
Figure 22
Page 17-24
headlight switch to the small harness that carries current to each

lamp. Circuit #37 carries current to the speedometer and fuel
gauge lights. See Figure 5/Figure 8.
Figure 23 outlines the signal circuits for the standard gauges. All
gauge ground circuits are WHITE in color, beginning with #16 at
the ground stud in the side electrical panel. See Figure 1.
Power to the gauges is provided by circuit #3 from #8 circuit

breaker (third circuit breaker from the top on the COLD ignition
buss bar) to the fuel gauge. Power to the other gauges is
accomplished by #7 circuit to the speedometer and to the other
gauges via short jumper wires. See schematic Figure 5/Figure
8 if additional information is needed.
Figure 23
Page 17-25
Servicing the Instruments

Caution: Make Sure
the master circuit breaker Access to the backside of the various gauges can be gained
has been tripped before from beneath the dash. Each gauge is held in place by a
beginning any repairs in this "horseshoe" shaped bracket mounted on the two 10/32 studs.
area. It is also wise to
After the bracket has been removed, pull the gauge out from the
remove all rings and your
front far enough to disconnect the wires from the gauge. There
watch before beginning the
should be enough length in the wires to allow the gauge to be
repairs or troubleshooting.
pulled out. The gauge light pulls out of the gauge body.
If there is any doubt as to where the wires should be

reconnected, place a tag on the wires as they are removed to
insure proper reconnection.
Some may prefer to remove the instrument panel cover to gain

access to the instruments, the transmission shifter, and the
warning light bar. This is accomplished as follows:
1. Have on hand a supply of plastic fastener (part
#61370000), since those used on the panel being
removed will be damaged on removal.
2. Remove the screws that secure the dash panels to the
cover.
3. Remove the Phillips head screw at the extreme lower
right corner of the cover.
4. Using a thin sharp chisel, knock the heads from the
plastic fasteners lining the front edge of the cover. The
cover should lift off at this point.
Troubleshooting Instruments and Sending Units
The following is based on the fact that the gauge was working
normally prior to the failure, and no components (gauge or
sender) were changed previously. If it was working properly
before failure, it means the components were matched properly,
eliminating the possibility that mismatched components are
involved. It is also assumed that the instrument has been
checked for proper ground and a minimum of 12 volts to the
gauge.
With the ignition switch OFF, the pointer may point to any dial
scale graduation. Not all instruments incorporate a return-to-zero
function. These instruments will usually point to the signal
Page 17-26
previously sent by the sender. With the above thoughts in mind,

proceed as follows to determine if the sending unit or the gauge
is at fault, or if a problem exists in the wiring.
1. With ignition switch ON, see if the gauge pointer is within

the dial scale end points. If so, turn ignition OFF and
proceed as follows:
a. Disconnect sender wire from the sender, making
sure it does not come in contact with a ground.
b. Turn ignition switch ON, pointer should move off
scale to extreme LEFT. Turn ignition switch OFF.
c. Attach sender wire to a clean solid ground. Turn
ignition switch ON, pointer should move to extreme
far RIGHT. Turn ignition switch OFF.
If the gauge does not pass this test, replace the

gauge and retest.
2. With ignition switch ON and sender wire connected; if the

pointer goes to the extreme LEFT side of the dial:
a. Turn ignition switch OFF. Remove sender wire from
the appropriate terminal block post in the side
electrical compartment.
b. Turn ignition ON, pointer should travel to far RIGHT
side of dial. If it does not, replace the gauge.
3. With ignition switch ON and sender wire connected and
pointer rests at extreme RIGHT:
a. Turn ignition switch OFF.
b. Remove sender wire as noted above.
c. Test the resistance of the sender and its wiring,
using a digital ohmmeter. The resistance should be
between 0-250 ohms.
d. If resistance is greater than 250 ohms, check for
loose or poor connections of the wire at the sender,
or a poor ground of the sender. At the same time
checking for an open circuit.
e. If no resistance is found in the wiring, remove the
sender and check it for being within the 250 ohm
limit. If over 250 ohms, replace the sender.
Note: In step above it was recommended the sender wire be

removed from the appropriate post in the side electrical
Page 17-27
compartment. If the back side of the instrument was easily

accessed, the instructions would have been to remove the
sender wire from the gauge itself. However, because the area is
not easily accessed, the recommendation is made to break the
circuit at the nearest accessible point, hence the suggestion to
do it as noted.
Temperature Sensor Locations
The sensors listed below are a part of the engine as received

from the engine manufacturer, therefore, contact your area
engine service facility if replacement sensors are needed. The
locations shown below should assist in identifying the sensor
involved. Other engine related sensors are on the engine,
however, the average bus maintenance facility would not
normally be involved in servicing these sensors. Consult the
Operator's Manual that came with the bus for additional
information.
Cummins ISC Engines:

•Coolant temperature sensor (ECM) - top front corner of
cylinder head, intake manifold side.
•Intake manifold pressure sensor - slightly above and just
ahead of the engine fuel/water separator.
•Intake manifold temperature sensor - slightly above and to
the rear of the fuel/water separator, manifold side.
•Oil pressure sensor - between the fuel lift pump and the
fuel/water separator.
•Water-in-Fuel sensor - lower end of fuel/water separator.
The sensors for dash mounted gauges are located:

•Engine oil pressure - on small, round manifold beneath the
air cleaner
•Engine coolant temperature - front end of cylinder block.
Caterpillar Engines:
•Intake manifold pressure (boost) - top right side of engine,
front end.
•Coolant temperature sensor - top right side of engine, front
end, adjacent to boost pressure sensor.
•Intake manifold temperature sensor - top rear end of intake
manifold.
Page 17-28
Other temperature sensitive sensors are located in the

thermostat housing.
Other Sensors
•Transmission Temperature Sensor:

MD Transmission - installed in hoses at lower front end of
transmission.
Other transmissions - in fitting at top of transmission.
•Speedometer Sensors:
MD Transmission - signal is sent from the transmission
VIM module. On wheel driven sensors the sensor is in the
left front wheel assembly.
•Dash Oil Pressure Gauges:
Installed in small round manifold beneath the air cleaner
assembly.
Low Air/Oil Pressure, Engine Overheat Warning
The electrical system incorporates separate warning systems

covering low air pressure and low oil pressure/engine overheat.
In addition to a warning buzzer for each system, warning lights
are a part of the 14-position light bar at the top of the dash.
Since the systems are different for the Cummins and Caterpillar
engines, they are separated herein.
Caterpillar:
Refer to Figure 24 for the schematic covering the warning
systems on Caterpillar engines.
Low Air Pressure Warning-

Two "Normally Open" low air pressure switches are located on
the E-6 treadle valve beneath the driver's island. They monitor
the front and rear brake systems. A drop to 60 psi or lower will
complete the ground circuit to both the dash warning light and
the low pressure buzzer. Both should come ON at the same
time.
The low air pressure buzzer is located just ahead of the 12-volt
heavy duty ignition power relay on the front panel of the side
Page 17-29
Circuit 13 from the fuel gauge provided by circuit 24 from the fuel
gauge, circuit 27 provides the ground circuit to and through the
low pressure switches.
Low Oil Pressure - Engine Overheat Warning-

A separate buzzer, installed on the upper front corner of the side
panel, provides an audible warning of a drop below 8 psi of oil
pressure or a coolant temperature above 2200F. The dash
warning light will come ON at the same time. The respective
sensors will close at those points, completing the ground circuits.
Circuit 30 from the buzzer runs the length of the chassis to #2
post on terminal block #2 in the rear electrical compartment. See
Figure 24.
Circuit 13 from the fuel gauge provides current to the buzzer.
Current for the low pressure/high coolant temperature warning

light is #137 from the fuel gauge.
Indirectly current for all of these circuits comes through #3 circuit

from #8 Circuit board in the front (side) electrical panel.
Figure 24
Page 17-30
Cummins:
Low Air Pressure Warning-
Figure 25 outlines the circuits involved the low air pressure
warning system. The buzzer is mounted in front of the 12-volt
ignition power relay in the side electrical compartment.
Circuit #13 from the fuel gauge provides current to the buzzer.
Circuit #26 completes the ground circuit through the low air
pressure switches. Circuit #23 from the fuel gauge provides
current to the warning light.
Figure 25
Low Oil Pressure/Engine Overheat Warning-

Figure 26 outlines the circuits involved in this warning system.
The buzzer is located at the top of the front panel in the side
This warning system is controlled by the engine ECM. The

coolant temperature sensor and the oil pressure sensors are a
part of the engine as received from Cummins. Any faults
detected by the ECM would: 1) cause the appropriate warning
light to glow, 2) file the appropriate failure code in the ECM
memory, and 3) begin reducing engine power if the problem is
serious.
This is covered in Cummins' Operation and Maintenance Manual

that came with the bus, and in considerably more detail in
Cummins' Troubleshooting and Repair Manual #3666245 which
is available from your area Cummins service facility.
Page 17-31
Figure 26
Warning Lightbar-
The 14-position lightbar located at the top of the dash
consolidates all warning lamps into one assembly. See Figure
27.
Cummins powered units will have a separate dash instrument

containing four (4) cautioning lamps: Stop, Warning, Wait to
Start, and Water in Fuel. See Figure 28. These warning lamps
are controlled by the engine ECM.
Figure 27
The lightbar performs an automatic checkout of the LED bulbs in

the assembly, as well as, the components that make up the
assembly. The comments made below are based on the
assumption that the assembly functioned properly during the
Figure 28 automatic checkout.
In the event one of the warning lamps comes ON while the bus
is moving, the following comments may help in pinpointing the
source of the problem.
Left Turn Signal Lamp-

Refer to the turn signal paragraphs in this section.
Right Turn Signal Lamp-

to the turn signal paragraphs in this section.
Page 17-32
Park Brake Warning Lamp-

This is an option that may not be on every bus, it must be special
ordered. To check the circuit, locate the park brake switch
installed on the PP1 valve (the dash valve that applies the park
brakes). Circuit 413 provides the ground circuit to this warning
lamp when the parking brakes are applied. The Normally Closed
switch opens when the PP1 valve is pushed IN on the dash,
breaking the ground circuit.
To test the complete circuit, use a jumper wire from the 413
terminal on the switch to a clean ground. The warning lamp
should glow. If it does, the circuit is good, and should indicate the
switch has failed.
ABS Warning Lamp-

Refer to the ABS section of this manual.
Engine Compartment Temperature Lamp-

Is used only with units erected with Compressed Natural Gas
Engines.
Low Air Pressure Warning Lamp-

Refer to Low Air Pressure Warning in the Pneumatic and
Electrical sections of this manual.
Low Coolant Lamp-

This is not a standard on this bus, but is available as an option.
If the lamp comes ON during operation the engine may be
derated in power (if so programmed).
Check coolant level, after it has cooled sufficiently and safely. If

the level is normal refer to your Cummins or Caterpillar shop
manual to check out the fault codes that will be registered. Flash
code 12 indicates a problem with the coolant level system.
This will relate to fault code 235 on Cummins engines fault

codes 111-01, 111-02, and 111-11 will apply to Caterpillar
engines.
High Beam Indicator Lamp-

Refer to Low Beam/High Beam Operation and Figure 17 in the
Electrical section of this manual.
Page 17-33
If the high beams operate normally and the lightbar checked out
OK during the automatic checkout, the problem can only be in
circuit 39.
Intake Manifold Heater Lamp-

This is covered in the Air Intake section of this manual. Flash
code 49 will register if a problem exists in this circuit.
Lightbar Removal
1. Open the chassis 150-amp master circuit breaker or

disconnect the battery cables. Do not work in this area
with rings or watches on hand.
2. Remove the instrument and dash cover assembly:
a. Have on hand a supply of plastic fasteners, part
#61370000, before beginning the job. They must be
destroyed in removing the cover.
b. Using a sharp, thin chisel knock the heads from
the fasteners lining the front of the cover.
c. Remove the screws that secure the dash panels to
the cover.
d. Remove the phillips head screws at the extreme
lower right corner of the cover.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the lightbar.
4. Remove the dash panel support to gain access to the
lightbar locking plate. (Three phillips screws in front, one
1/4" nut at rear.
5. Remove the rectangular cover from the front of the
lightbar - two (2) small screws. The identification strip will
fall out then.
6. The lightbar is held in place by a rectangular locking plate
that snaps in place over four (4) locking tabs. Insert a very
small screwdriver in each of the slots and lift the lock plate
clear of each tab. When all four have been cleared, the
lightbar can be pulled from the dash.
Lightbar Installation
1. Snap the rectangular locking plate into place over the four
(4) locking tabs.
2. Secure the rectangular cover in the front of the lightbar in
place with two (2) small screws.
Page 17-34
3. Install the dash panel support with three (3) phillips

screws in front and one (1) 1/4" nut in rear.
4. connect the wiring harness to the lightbar.
5. Install the phillips head screws at the extreme lower right
corner of the cover.
6. Install the screws that secure the dash panel to the cover.
7. Using plastic fasteners, part #61370000, reinstall the
instrument and dash cover assembly.
Other lamps on the lightbar are controlled by the engine ECM.

For help on these, refer to the engine shop manuals.
Speedometer
The speedometer circuit is no longer a 2-wire harness direct

from the speedometer sensor to the speedometer head. Since
the ECM controls so many operational functions, (cruise control,
road speed, fuel supply to each cylinder, shifting, engine rpm,
etc.) it is necessary to route the road speed signal to and
through the ECM.
The road speed signal of 16 pulses per revolution of the

transmission output shaft is provided by a sensor located at the
rear of the transmission.With the Caterpillar engine, this signal is
processed by the transmission Electronic Control Unit (ECU) to
the Vehicle Interface Module (VIM) and on to the ECM. The
ECM interprets this signal and uses it to control the functions
listed above, among others, and sends it own signal of 30,000
pulses per mile to the speedometer head.
See Figure 29 for a general outline of the speedometer signal

path through the ECU, VIM, and ECM on the Cummins engine
and Figure 30 on the Caterpillar engine.
It may be necessary to use the electronic service tools from your

area Cummins or Caterpillar dealer. Before getting involved in
using the test equipment, listed below are several checks that
should be made first.
Page 17-35
Figure 29
Figure 30
Troubleshooting the Speedometer System
Any problems that may occur while in motion should show up in

the dash warning lamps and will be identified by a fault code.
The fault codes and checking procedures are outlined in the
Cummins/Caterpillar shop manuals that you should have in your
shop library.
1. Observe the nature of the problem first to determine if the

speedometer head is defective. If the mph is ok but the
indicated mileage is incorrect, or vice-versa, the head is
defective and no further checking should be necessary.
Replace the head.
2. Check the resistance in the speedometer sensor.
Remove the connector from the sensor at the rear of the

transmission. With the ohmmeter leads on the two
terminals in the sensor, the sensor should show
Page 17-36
resistance of 100 to 1500 ohms, depending on the

temperature of the sensor. Reverse the ohmmeter leads
and check resistance, if should be within 10 ohms of the
other reading. At 680F resistance should be around 300
ohms.
3. If sensor checks out OK, remove it from the transmission

and inspect it for debris, steel shavings, or damage. If OK,
reinstall the sensor until it touches the chopper wheel,
then back it out one (1) turn.
4. Inspect all connectors, harnesses, looseness, broken
wires, dirt corrosion, etc.
If still inoperative after passing all above inspections, follow the

instructions in your Cummins/Caterpillar shop manuals.
The ECU is located beneath the driver's floor, in the left front
corner.
The VIM is located under the dash, right front corner.
The 2-way connector shown on the schematic (A and B) is a

single connector located near the rear of the engine, along with
other harnesses in that area.
A failure in the speedometer system would be registered under

flash code 31 or 36.
The fault or diagnostic code on Caterpillar engines would be 84-

01 and 84-02.
The diagnostic code on Cummins engines would be 241.
Figure 29 shows part number 61201397 for the speedometer

head for Cummins, and Figure 30 shows part number 61200269
for the Caterpillar.
Tachometer
As long as the alternator is functioning properly, there is little

reason to suspect the alternator would be a factor in a
tachometer malfunction. About the only things that would
Page 17-37
contribute to tachometer malfunction would be a defective

tachometer head, low voltage to the head on circuit #14 from the
speedometer head, a poor ground at the head, or resistance in
circuit #20 from the alternator. Circuit #20 is continuous by
connections at post #5 on the front terminal block in the side
electrical panel and post #5 on the center terminal block in the
rear modular electrical box in the engine compartment. See
Figure 31.
In the event the tachometer head must be replaced, it is

important the DIP switches must be set in the same position as
on the old head removed.
Alternator Charging System
Figure 31 outlines the standard charging system, with the

exception of the ammeter installation (which is an infrequently
used option). If information on the ammeter is needed, refer to
the entire system schematic, Figure 5/Figure 8.
Figure 31
Page 17-38
Both the Delco 21 SI series and the Leece-Neville JB series

alternators are used and are designed for no periodic
maintenance or adjustments during the life of the unit. The Delco
alternator has no provision to adjust the voltage setting. If
voltage output is not within limits the alternator must be replaced.
If overhaul or troubleshooting instructions are needed, Service
Bulletin IG-286 is available by contacting the following firm that
handles request for publications for Delco:
EDU Tech Publications

P.O. Box 2469
Anderson, IN 46018
Alternator Circuitry
Figure 31 circuit applies to the Delco 21SI alternator. If Leece-

Neville is used, circuit #422 would not be used.
Leece-Neville Regulator Adjustment
The Leece-Neville JB series alternators have a replaceable, and

adjustable voltage regulator. To adjust the regulator, follow as
noted:
1. Before attempting adjustment, make sure all terminals
and connections are tight and clean, the drive belt is
properly tensioned, and the batteries are 90-100% fully
charged.
2. With the engine OFF, flash the field by connecting a
jumper from the NEGATIVE output post to a piece of stiff
wire, or a 1/16" drill, inserted into the FULL FIELD access
hole in the back of the alternator, just above the row of
terminals. Hold it in place for 1 to 2 seconds. This should
restore the residual magnetism in the rotor. See Figure
32.
3. Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals. Note
the voltage.
4. Start the engine, run at fast idle of 1000 rpm. Voltage at
the battery should increase to 13.9 volts to 14.1 with fully
charged batteries.
This is the proper operating voltage in the average

Figure 32
environment. In extreme hot and dry climates it may be
Page 17-39
necessary to drop the voltage to 13.6 to prevent

overcharging and loss of electrolyte.
In extreme cold weather it may be necessary to set

voltage up to 14.4 to 14.6 volts to keep the batteries fully
charged.
5. Voltage Regulator Adjustment:

a. Batteries should be fully charged.
If adjusted with low batteries the voltage setting will be
too high as the batteries come up to full charge.
b. Turn OFF all electrical loads, lights, heaters, etc.
c. Connect an accurate voltmeter across the batteries to
determine the charging voltage. Do not use the dash
voltmeter; it does not have the accuracy to properly
set the voltage.
Figure 33
d. Operate the engine at a fast idle rpm.
e. Remove the small plastic cap in the regulator cover.
See Figure 33. Using a small screw driver turn the
Caution: Do NOT
adjustment clockwise to increase voltage, opposite
attempt to turn the screw
direction to bring voltage down. DO NOT turn the
past the stops at each end
adjustment past the stop. Damage will be done to the
of the adjustment range (to
avoid damage to the regulator.
regulator). f. Replace the plastic plug to keep contaminants out of
the regulator.
Alternator Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable at battery.

2. Remove drive belt by relieving belt tension. Use 1/2"
breaker bar in the square hole in the tensioner to relieve
tension.
3. Remove upper and lower mounting bolts of alternator.
4. Pull alternator towards you far enough to disconnect
cables and wiring. Tag each wire to prevent incorrect
hook-up when reinstalling same.
Alternator Installation
1. Inspect pulley fan for cracks, missing fins, being bent.

2. Install pulley spacer (if not in place), cooler fan, and pulley
onto rotor shaft. The flat slinger part of the fan must be
Page 17-40
against the pulley. After pulley has been installed onto the
shaft, place the pulley in a vise, using brass jaws. Torque
pulley nut to 70-80 ft/lbs.
3. Tap the lower hinge bushings back into the mounting lug
to provide clearance between the mounting lugs and the
bracket.
4. Reconnect cables and wires to back of alternator, and put
in position on the mounting bracket. Torque the lower
mounting bolts to 60-70 ft/lbs. after drive belt has been
installed.
Testing/Troubleshooting Charging System
Initial charging system check, using accurate voltmeter:

1. With engine not running, connect voltmeter across the
battery terminals. Make sure all electrical load is OFF.
Record voltage shown on the voltmeter.
Start engine, run at moderate rpm and observe battery

voltage. If the voltage at the battery is lower (with the
engine running) than the initial reading, the alternator has
no output. If the voltage is higher, the alternator has
output but how much is not known until the rated output
test is made.
2. If the battery is overcharged, as evidenced by excessive

use of water or water on top of the battery or frequent
replacement of bulbs, check for battery voltage higher
than 15 volts (with engine running and all systems OFF).
Check all terminals and connections in the charging
system for looseness and/or resistance. The same would
apply if the voltmeter fluctuates.
If voltage remains above 15 volts, replace the voltage

regulator.
Rated Output Test
Test equipment required:

• Voltmeter
• Ammeter
• Variable Carbon Pile Load Tester
Page 17-41
1. Refer to Figure 34 for test equipment hook-up. If

Caution: Disconnect induction pick-up type ammeter is to be used, place it
negative cable from the around the alternator output lead.
battery before removing or
installing the battery cable at
If a series type ammeter is to be used, place it in series
the alternator. Failure to do
with the alternator battery cable and the alternator. Be
so can result in a tool
sure the negative cable is disconnected from the battery
shorting out which will heat
when making this installation.
up rapidly and can cause
serious burns to the hand.
Always wear safety 2. Reconnect negative cable at battery.
glasses. 3. Connect load test machine across the battery. Make sure
the load test is OFF.
4. Connect voltmeter negative lead to the negative post of
battery.
5. Connect voltmeter positive lead to the positive post of
battery and observe voltage reading.
6. Start engine, with all electrical loads OFF, run at moderate
speed. Check voltage. It should be higher than previous
reading but lower than 15 volts.
If voltage is lower than previous reading, replace voltage

regulator or alternator as required. If higher than 15 volts,
replace the regulator.
7. To check maximum output of the alternator: With engine

still running at moderate speed, rotate the carbon pile
knob until maximum amperage is shown on the machine
without allowing the voltage to drop below 13 volts.
Figure 34
Page 17-42
Maximum output should be within 15 amps of the rated

output stamped on the drive end flange, next to the part
number.
Note: If amperage output is 8. With the alternator still running at maximum output, move
more than 15 amps below the voltmeter positive lead from the battery positive post
the rated output, replace the to a good ground on the alternator housing.
alternator.
Voltage drop for the ground circuit should not exceed 0.25
volts. If more than 0.25 volts, clean and tighten all ground
connections.
9. Remove all test equipment, making sure the load test is

OFF and the battery negative cable is disconnected if the
series ammeter was used.
10. Reconnect battery cable.
Battery Care and Maintenance
Several different battery installations are available in this model

bus; however, the same precautions and testing procedures will
apply to all. All batteries used are considered to be low
maintenance batteries. As opposed to being sealed batteries,
the fill caps can be removed to check electrolyte levels and
specific gravity.
Before getting involved in anything to do with battery testing,

charging, or replacement, it is wise to be aware of the hazards
involved in servicing the batteries.
Caution:
1. Always wear protection for the eyes, whether it be safety glasses or
a shield when servicing the batteries.
2. Allow no flames or sparks in the area where batteries are being
serviced. Batteries normally produce explosive gases that when
exposed to a spark of any kind can cause serious personal injury.
3. Make sure the battery service area is well ventilated.
4. Never stand over a battery being serviced.
5. Avoid overfilling the cells.
6. Avoid breathing battery fumes.
7. Always use a strap or carrier to lift the battery.
8. Use plenty of fresh water to flush off any spilled electrolyte on skin
or clothing.
Page 17-43
Routine Maintenance Practices:

Several routine maintenance practices will make a major
contribution towards obtaining maximum service life of the
batteries.
1. Keep the tops of the batteries clean and dry.
If the tops are constantly wet, it means the batteries are

being overfilled or the voltage regulator is not controlling
voltage below 15 volts.
Baking soda sprinkled over areas of corrosion on

batteries or battery hardware and flushed with clear water
will clean the area.
2. Maintain a specific gravity level of at least 1.225 (or 12.4

open circuit voltage) when checked at 600F (160C) or
higher electrolyte temperature. This will indicate the
battery is 75% charged. A new or fully charged battery will
have a specific gravity of 1.265-1.280 (12.6 volts).
A battery allowed to operate constantly in a semi-

discharged state will cause the plates to sulfate which
shortens battery life. After a period of time it will be almost
impossible to bring the battery back up to full charge.
3. Keep battery hold downs tight to prevent the battery from

bouncing around or moving. Such movement causes the
plates to fail, again shortening battery life.
4. Do NOT allow the battery to heat up over 1260F (520C)
during charging. Heat destroys a battery.
5. Avoid overfilling the cells. At the same time, do not allow
the electrolyte to fall below the top of the plates.
Check the level in the cells at least every two months, or

as often as may be required in your particular operation.
6. Take care when jump starting the engine.

7. When installing a battery observe the following:
a. Make sure the surface on which it sets is free of any
rocks or other debris that will wear a hole in the
battery case. The battery must have a solid base
Page 17-44
and not be allowed to move around.

b. Inspect the hold down angles, rods, and clamps.
Make sure the threads on the rods are clean and will
permit proper anchoring of the battery.
Clean and paint battery installation hardware with an
acid resistant paint, if signs of corrosion are evident.
Battery Testing and Charging Procedure
The Group 31 batteries used as standard are rated each at 950

cold cranking amps at 00F (-180C) with 170 minutes reserve
capacity at 800F (270C). The 8D battery available as an option is
rated 1000 CCAs at 00F (-180C), with 400 minutes reserve
capacity. Not all Group 31 batteries have the same ratings. They
may vary between vendors.
These figures are important when testing the battery with a

heavy duty load tester, and when determining the charge rate
and time when charging a battery.
Battery Testing:
There are two methods of determining the state of charge in the
battery: 1) the use of a hydrometer that measures the Specific
Gravity of the electrolyte, and 2) the use of a voltmeter to
determine the open circuit voltage between the positive and
negative posts of the battery. There is a direct relationship
between the specific gravity and the open circuit voltage. See
the chart for the relationship. With this in mind, battery state of
charge can easily be determined with a voltmeter once the
surface charge has been removed.
Open-Circuit Corresponding Open-Circuit Corresponding

Voltage Reading Specific Gravity Voltage Reading Specific Gravity
11.95 1.100 12.05 1.200
11.96 1.110 12.06 1.210
11.97 1.120 12.07 1.220
11.98 1.130 12.08 1.230
11.99 1.140 12.09 1.240
12.00 1.150 12.10 1.250
12.01 1.160 12.11 1.260
12.02 1.170 12.12 1.270
12.03 1.180 12.13 1.280
12.04 1.190 12.14 1.290
Voltage-to-Specific Gravity Comparison Chart
Page 17-45
If the open circuit voltage is low, it would be wise to check the

Specific Gravity to determine if one cell is in trouble. A difference
of 50 points (.050) in Specific Gravity between cells generally
indicates the battery must be replaced. In such cases the battery
should be placed on charge; however, if the 50 point difference
remains after recharging the battery should be replaced.
Specific Gravity readings must be corrected according to

electrolyte temperature. The following chart will give the
correction needed to determine the true specific gravity
according to the temperature of the electrolyte, from 200F to
1200F.
120oF (49oC) - Add 16 points (.016)
100oF (38oC) - Add 8 points (.008)
80oF (27oC) - Reading correct as is.
60oF (16oC) - Subtract 8 points (.008)
40oF (4oC) - Subtract 16 points (.016)
20oF (-7oC) - Subtract 24 points (.-024)
There will be times when a heavy duty high-discharge tester will

be required to determine the true condition of the battery. SUN
Electric Model VAT 33 is an example of such a tester for this
purpose. There are several such testers on the market. The
following procedure will outline the procedure to test the
standard Group 31 battery.
1. Connect the load tester across the battery. Connect the

voltmeter at the same time. (Figure 35)
2. Apply 475 amps (1/2 the CCA rating of 950) for 10
seconds to kill the surface charge of the battery.
3. Wait 15 seconds for the battery to stabilize.
4. Apply the 475 amp load for 15 seconds and observe the
battery voltage. If the voltage is 9.6 volts or higher the
battery is OK. If it is lower than 9.6 volts the battery is in
a state of discharge.
Figure 35 5. At completion of the load test, connect the expanded
scale of the voltmeter across the battery to determine the
open circuit voltage of the battery and its state of charge.
Note: Not all Group 31 This is necessary to determine the proper charge rate for
batteries have the same this Group 31 battery.
ratings. They may vary 6. After the battery has been charged, repeat step four
between vendors. Check the
above to see if it will sustain the 9.6 volt. Repeat the
rating on the battery before
charging process three times, based on the open circuit
testing.
Page 17-46
voltage test, to determine if the battery can be salvaged.

If it fails three times, scrap it.
The following chart shows the minimum required voltage for the
battery to be considered acceptable under the 15 second load
test, allowing for the temperature of the electrolyte at time of the
test.
Estimated Electrolyte Minimum Required Voltage
Temperature Under 15 Second Load Test
70oF (21oC) & above 9.6
o
60 F (16oC) 9.5
o
50 F (10oC) 9.4
o
40 F (4oC) 9.3
o
30 F (-1oC) 9.1
o
20 F (-7oC) 8.9
o
10 F (-12oC) 8.7
o
0 F (-18oC) 8.5
See paragraphs related to Battery Charging.
Battery Charging Procedure - Group 31 Battery:

After determining the Open Circuit Voltage in step five of Battery
Testing, refer to the chart to determine the time required to fully
charge the battery at 10 amps.
Open Circuit Voltage
Open Circuit Voltage 11.7 Volts 12.2 Volts 12.4 Volts
Charge Rate 10 Hours @ 5 Hours @ 2 1/2 Hours @

10 Amps 10 Amps 10 Amps
Reserve Capacity 170 minutes
If two batteries are being charged at the same time, either the
charge rate must be increased to 20 amps or the time doubled.
(Each battery will take half the amperage shown on the charger
meter.)
When time is a factor, these batteries can be Fast Charged at a

rate of 30 amps per battery, but only for 30 minutes. Remember
heat destroys a battery. At no time during the charging process
should the battery(ies) be allowed to exceed 1250F (510C).
If the battery is to be reinstalled in the same bus, make sure the

cables are clean and in good condition, the same goes for the
battery box.
Page 17-47
After the battery has been installed, fully charged, check the
voltage regulator setting. This should be between 14.0-14.5
volts.
Battery Jump Starting Precautions
Proper connection of "booster" cables is important. Use the

following guidelines to minimize problems in jump starting the
bus.
1. Do NOT disconnect the cables from the dead battery. To
do so could damage the electrical system during the jump
starting process.
2. Be sure parking brakes are set, transmission is in neutral.
Do not allow the two vehicles to touch each.
3. Turn ON the heater or A/C fan to absorb any voltage
spike from the alternator. Turn OFF all other switches,
other than those needed for safety reasons.
4. Connect the jumper cables as follows:
a. Connect one end of the jumper cable to the (+)
positive post of the dead battery. Connect the
opposite end of that cable to the (+) positive post of
the Booster battery.
b. Connect the end of the other cable to the Booster
battery negative post. Connect the opposite end of
the cable to a good ground on the engine or chassis.
Making the final connection onto the battery could
result in a spark that could cause an explosion.
5. It may be necessary to allow the dead battery to be
charged a few minutes before attempting to start the
engine.
6. After the engine has started and is running OK, bring it
back to idle. Disconnect the ground cable from the
chassis/engine and then remove the complete cable
assembly.
Power and Ground Circuits
Caterpillar:
Both Positive and Ground battery cables run direct to the starter
assembly. See Figure 36. Heavy studs provide ideal junction
points.
Page 17-48
Positive Post-
Three main circuits are joined at this post.
1. Main positive battery cable.
2. Circuit #256 provides current to the 135-amp circuit
breaker mounted on the cylinder head. This circuit
powers the intake air heater assembly.
3. Circuit #76 provides current to #1 power stud in the rear
modular electrical compartment.
Negative Post-
The negative post on the starter provides the focal point of all
ground circuits for the entire bus. Four cables attach to this post.
1. The negative cable from the battery attaches here.
2. The alternator ground cable runs direct from the
alternator to this post.
3. The engine block grounds at this point.
4. The frame is grounded at this point, also. Body grounds
are off the frame. A good, solid, clean connection is
critical at this point.
Cummins:
Both positive and negative battery cables run direct to posts on
the starter. See Figure 37.
Figure 36
Page 17-49
Positive Post-
Three main circuits are joined at the positive post; the main
battery cable, intake air grid heaters, and the positive cable to #1
power stud in the rear electrical compartment.
Circuit 76 supplies current to the #1 power stud. Circuit 75 is the

positive cable to the alternator from #1 power stud. If an
ammeter is a part of the dash instruments, a shunt would be
installed in circuit 75 between #1 power stud and the alternator.
Two 2-AWG cables supply current to the two 135-amp circuit

breakers that provide current to the two intake manifold grid
heaters that draw 105 amps each. Each circuit has its own relay,
mounted on the rear electrical compartment, along with the two
circuit breakers.
Operation of the intake air heaters is covered in the Air Intake

section of this manual.
Negative Post-
Four cables connect at the starter ground stud; the battery
ground cable, engine ground cable, chassis ground cable, and
alternator ground cable.
Two 2/0-AWG cables are used to provide a ground circuit for the
engine and the chassis ground.
Figure 37
Page 17-50
The body circuits are grounded to the chassis. In the unlikely

event the positive battery cable should short out against a
chassis component the chassis ground cable could fail, affecting
body circuits. The same would happen to the engine ground
cable if a positive cable should short against the engine at some
point.
The ground cable to the alternator is joined at the alternator by

circuit 452A, which provides the ground for all circuits involved in
the front panel of the front (side) electrical compartment.
Starter Circuits
The starter circuits schematic, Figure 38, outlines the various

switches and circuits involved in the start system. Several safety
features are provided to prevent the engine from being started
while someone is working in the rear compartment areas.
An interlock switch is mounted at the top of the engine

compartment door opening. It interrupts start circuit #112 when
the rear door is lifted.
Figure 38
Page 17-51
An ignition ON-OFF toggle switch is located on the back side of

the rear modular electrical panel, along with the starter push
button switch and the 150-amp chassis system master circuit
breaker and compartment light switch. The ignition toggle switch
should be in the OFF position at all times when servicing
anything in that area, except when the mechanic or driver
purposely turns it ON. The complete electrical system can be
disabled by pushing the RED button on one or both of the two
150-amp circuit breakers on the rear electrical panel. They can
be reengaged by moving the small black lever back towards the
circuit breaker.
The starter circuit cannot be energized from the front or rear

unless the rear door interlock switch is closed, either by hand or
by closing the rear door. To start the engine with the rear door
open, this switch must be depressed by hand at the same time
the start button is being depressed.
The rear ignition toggle switch must be in the RUN position to

start the engine from the front as well as from the rear.
The transmission must be in neutral to complete the starter

circuit.
The starter relay is located on the outside of the rear modular

box.
The starter system is tied in with three (3) other electrical circuits
or systems: 1) Brake ABS, 2) Intake Air Grid Heaters, and 3)
Daylight Running Light System.
1. ABS System:
The ABS EC-17 module is sensitive to voltage extremes,
i.e., below 11 volts or above 17 volts. The instant the
starter solenoid is engaged, particularly in cold weather,
system voltage can drop dramatically. The ABS relay
opens at this instant, guarding against causing the
GREEN LED in the EC-17 to flash each time the engine
is started. See the ABS section of this manual for
additional comments on the start interlock relay circuit.
2. Intake Air Grid Heater:
Maximum amperage is required to energize the starter,
particularly during cold weather. The grid heaters draw
Page 17-52
between 100 and 210 amps when operating. During

starting, these grids are de-energized to permit maximum
current to the starter. The engine ECM controls this
function. See Air Intake section of this manual for
additional comments.
3. Daytime Running Lights:
This is an option specified by the customer, not standard
equipment. A relay is installed in the front (side) electrical
panel to de-energize the headlight circuit during cranking.
This serves the same purpose as eliminating current to
the grid heaters during cranking.
Back-Up Alarm Circuits
The signal for the back-up warning alarm and lights originates in
the dash mounted shift control. This signal is transmitted to the
transmission Electronic Control Unit (ECU). The ECU sends the
signal via circuit 113 to the Reverse relay located in the Vehicle
Interface Module (VIM). The ground circuit for the relay is
completed when the shift control is moved to the Reverse
position, causing the N/O relay to close and energize circuit
Figure 39
Page 17-53
5313 to #8 post on terminal block 2 in the side electrical panel.

Circuit 107 joins 5313 at this post, completing the circuit to the
back-up alarm. See Figure 39.
Electric Horn Circuits
The horn relay is located on the lower front corner of the side
electrical panel, forward of the low air pressure warning buzzer.
Figure 40 shows circuit #48 from #7 circuit breaker provides
current to the relay. Circuit #45 from the horn button completes
the ground circuit to the relay when the button is depressed.
Circuits #49 and #50 run directly from the relay to each horn.
A diode is installed between relay ground terminal 45 and battery

terminal 48 to prevent "feedback" of current from the intake air
heater indicator lamp. This feedback, if permitted, would cause
the heater indicator lamp to glow dimly when the heater is not in
operation.
Figure 40
Fuel/Water Separator Heater Circuit
Units operating in areas of extreme winter temperatures are

usually equipped with fuel/water separators that include a
heating element. An automatic thermostat within the filter
assembly completes the heater ground circuit as the fuel
temperature drops to 350F (20C). At this point the heater element
heats the fuel to remove and prevent the formation of wax
crystals that impede the flow of fuel through the filter element. In
Page 17-54
addition to preventing the formation of crystals while en route,

the heater element is vital at start-up after the bus has been
parked for any length of time in severe weather.
On start-up, turn the ignition switch ON and wait at least five

minutes before attempting to start the engine. This allows any
fuel crystals that may have formed in the fuel filter assembly to
be dissolved.
Figure 41 outlines the relatively simple electrical circuits

involved in the fuel heater system.
The fuel heater element is a part of the filter assembly. The relay
for this circuit is located on the back panel of the rear modular
electrical box. Power to the relay is provided via circuit breaker
#15 located on the top position on the battery buss bar. (Top
circuit breaker on right row of breakers.)
When the ignition is turned ON current flows from circuit breaker

#13 (5th breaker down from top on left side of breaker panel) via
circuit #143 to post #85 of the relay. The relay will close when the
fuel heater thermostat completes the ground circuit at 350F
(20C). The heater will not function above 350F.
Figure 41
Page 17-55
In the event the fuel heater is inoperative, check for 12 volts at

post #30 (circuit #140) of the relay. If no voltage, check for
voltage at circuit breaker #15; it should have 12 volts at all times,
except when the master circuit breaker is open. Also, check for
resistance in circuit #141 at post #7 on the rear terminal block in
the rear electrical compartment.
Turn ignition switch ON and check voltage at post #85 of the

relay. If both checks are OK, replace the filter bowl assembly.
Air Dryer Circuit
Units built with an air dryer contain a heating element and

thermostat that senses the temperature of the end cover. When
the cover temperature drops to 400F (40C) the thermostat
closes, completing the ground circuit for the heating element.
Excessive moisture in the air tanks, or ice anywhere in the air

system, indicates the dryer is not functioning as it should. The
manual drains in the tanks should be opened daily.
In the event the heating element is not working, use the following
procedure to check the element.
Remove electrical lead from the purge valve located in the end
cover. Connect a voltmeter to the lead.
With ignition ON, voltage should be 12 volts. If no or low voltage,

check voltage at #20 circuit breaker located in #5 position (from
the top) on the rear row of circuit breakers in the rear electrical
box. If 12 volts is present, check circuit #100 for open or high
Figure 42 resistance. See Figure 42.
Caution: Make sure To check the thermostat and heating element, remove the
the air system has been exhaust cover from the end cover. Three 1/4" capscrews hold it
drained before removing the in place. Make sure the air system has been drained before
exhaust cover, which removing the exhaust cover, which contains the thermostat and
contains the thermostat and heating element. Place the cover in a refrigerator, or leave it
heating element. outside if ambient temperature is near or below freezing, bring
the cover down to 400F (40C). Note: The cover would not have
to be removed if the bus has been parked outside for several
hours in ambient temperature near freezing.
Page 17-56
With cover properly chilled, connect an ohmmeter to the pin in

the female connector and the cover. The resistance should be
2.0 to 4.0 ohms. Warm the cover to 900F (320C) resistance
should now be approximately 1000 ohms. If resistance values
are within these limits, the thermostat and heating element is
OK. Otherwise, replace the cover assembly.
Automatic Air Tank Drains (Optional)
When an automatic drain valve is specified, it will be installed on

the WET tank. An additional option is required to include a
heater element in these valves.
These drain valves dump a small amount of moisture or sludge

that may be in the tanks when system pressure drops
approximately 2 psi.
To ensure these valves are functioning properly, at each PM

inspection insert a thin tool upward into the exhaust port to
unseat the exhaust valve. If a quantity of contaminant comes
out, it is an indication of the valve not functioning automatically.
Remove and clean the valve or replace it as required.
The heater element, when specified, is energized when the drain

valve body drops to 350F (10C), and is deenergized when the
valve body reaches 850F (290C).
Circuit breaker #12 furnishes current for the heated drain valves.
See Figure 43. It is the top circuit breaker on the ignition COLD
buss bar in the side electrical compartment. Circuits #81 and #85
serve the two heaters.
Figure 43
Page 17-57
Ether Start - Caterpillar Only

Danger: Do not spray
volatile starting aids such as This option is used only when specified by the customer and
ether, propane, or gasoline only with Caterpillar engines.
in the engine air intake
system. An explosion could Spraying a starting fluid directly into the intake air inlet is a
occur causing severe
dangerous practice. This can cause an explosion with resultant
engine damage and
damage to the engine and possible injury. The ether start system
personal injury.
used by Thomas is an automatic injection system that injects the
ether after inlet air has passed the intake air grid heaters.
Warning: The use of A fixed amount of ether is injected when coolant temperature is
volatile staring aids with below 1300F (540C), at which time the N/O thermostat closes to
Cummins Engines is not complete the ground circuit to the solenoid valve. When the
permitted. An explosion starter switch is engaged circuit 104 from the starter relay to the
could occur causing severe solenoid valve is energized, injecting the predetermined amount
engine damage and of ether. See Figure 44.
personal injury.
Once that initial amount is injected, there is no further ether flow
injected unless the ignition switch is turned OFF, and the starter
relay reengaged. It will then inject only the predetermined
amount of ether.
Figure 44
Page 17-58
Power Circuit for Engine Electrical Control Modules
Power to energize the ECM is provided through the ignition key

circuit on both, Caterpillar and Cummins engines. This circuit
originates in the rear electrical compartment in circuit breaker
#18 (#5 from the top on the left row of circuit breakers). The
circuit is different on the Cummins and Caterpillar engines; each
circuit is listed separately.
Cummins Engines:
Power to energize the ECM is provided through a relay in the
rear electrical compartment. The circuit is called the Ignition Key
Switch circuit. Refer to Figure 45 for an outline of this circuit.
Five (5) amp circuit breaker #18 furnishes current to relay post
85 via circuit 99A when the ignition switch is turned to the RUN
position.
This closes the N/O relay, allowing current to flow to the ECM via
circuit 99. Circuit A99 to post 30 of the relay is protected by an
inline fuse. Circuit 99 from the relay comes out of the main
harness near the rear of the engine and connects to a Cummins
furnished harness and connector. This Cummins/Thomas
connector joins circuit 99 with Cummins harness circuit A-5. The
Cummins harness plugs into the ECM.
Figure 45
Page 17-59
If a flash code indicates a problem in the ECM power supply, the

first check would be to see if current is passing through the relay
to circuit 99. Remove #99 from the relay, with the ignition switch
ON, check for 12 volts at #87 relay post. If 12 volts is present,
A99, 99A, and the relay are all functional. It is possible that a
problem may exist in 99 circuit, the connectors where 99 and A-
5 join, and in Cummins circuit A-5. In that case reconnect 99
back onto post 87 of the relay. Disconnect the main harness
connector from the ECM, and check for 12 volts at the A-5 pin in
the 50-pin connector.
If all circuit voltage checks are OK, refer the problem to your
area Cummins service facility, or connect the electronic service
tools to check further.
Caterpillar Engines:
Power to the ECM on Caterpillar engines does not go through a
relay. See Figure 46.
Figure 46
Eight (8) amp circuit breaker #18 provides current via circuit 99
(red wire) to position A in a 6-way connector near the rear of the
engine, and from there, circuit 99 continues to pin #70 in the
ECM connector.
To check for proper voltage to the ECM, remove the main

harness connector from the ECM. Turn ignition switch ON, check
for 12 volts at pin #70 in the connector. If 12 volts is present, the
power circuit to the ECM is as it should be.
At this point refer the problem to your area Caterpillar service

facility, or connect the Pro-Link Service Tool to the system and
proceed from there using the instructions from Caterpillar
Page 17-60
Troubleshooting Manual RENR 1367.
Fast Idle
Basically FAST IDLE is controlled by the ECM. The engine is set

at 700 rpm for LOW idle at the time of assembly (Cummins and
Caterpillar).
Fast idle is set at 1000 rpm, and is activated by the driver by

depressing the fast idle switch on the dash.
The idle speed can be increased from 700 rpm up to 1000 rpm
incrementally by "toggling" the fast idle switch momentarily on
the Caterpillar, or switching the fast idle switch on Cummins ISC,
6CG, 6BG.
Cummins:
Figure 47 outlines the circuits involved in Cummins fast idle
circuits.
With the transmission in neutral the transmission neutral switch

is closed, completing the ground circuit up to the fast idle switch.
Engaging the fast idle switch completes the ground circuit to the
Figure 47
Page 17-61
ECM. On receiving the completed ground signal, the ECM then

sets the fast idle rpm by controlling the fuel to the injectors.
Troubleshooting the fast idle system should be relatively simple.

If the transmission neutral switch was defective the starter would
operate because the neutral switch is in the starter circuits. The
only other switch involved is the fast idle switch, in which case
you would check it for continuity when the switch is closed.
Check for loose connections or loose wiring at the terminal
blocks shown.
If all above check OK, resort to using the Electronic service tools,
INSITE.
Caterpillar:
LOW IDLE is set at 700 rpm, FAST IDLE set at 1000 rpm. The
fast idle dash switch allows incremental increases in idle rpm
form 700 rpm up to 1000 rpm by "toggling" the fast idle switch.
Fast idle is disengaged when the brake pedal is depressed. See
Caterpillar 3126B HEUI Engines section of this manual for
additional information concerning the fast idle operation. See
Figure 48.
Twelve (12) volts current for the fast idle system comes from #8
(20-amp) circuit breaker in the side electrical compartment via
circuit 88 to #3 post on terminal block 3. Circuit 905 carries the
current from the fast idle switch to the ECM through pin #31 in
Figure 48
Page 17-62
connector 7. This connector joins the chassis harness to the

ECM.
Number 1 brake switch (N/C) located in the air manifold beneath

the driver's floor panel, receives a signal from pin 45 through
circuit #992. Depressing the brake pedal will cause this switch to
OPEN, breaking the signal back to the ECM.
Troubleshooting the Circuits:

1. Check the fast idle switch for continuity, with circuits 902
and 993C disconnected. Fast Idle switch ON.
2. Check for 12 volts at pin 31 in connector 7, with ignition
switch and Fast Idle switch ON.
3. Check for loose connections at post 1 on terminal block
#1, post 3 of terminal block #3, and post 9 of terminal
block #3.
If all check out OK, use the electronic service tools to

investigate further.
Cruise Control
The cruise control feature, when specified, operates in much the

same manner as the average automobile; i.e. a single pole-
single throw ON/OFF switch turns the cruise control ON. A
separate SET/RESUME switch controls setting the cruise speed
when reached as well as resuming cruise speed when it has
been interrupted.
The principle of operation is basically the same on Cummins and

Caterpillar powered units; however, the circuits are different. On
each, the ECM controls all facets of the cruise control operation.
The ECM regulates the amount of fuel being delivered to the
engine to provide the desired road speed. There are no external
rods, cables, cylinders, etc. as was used on older vehicles.
Cummins Powered
A normally closed switch, installed in the brake application

pressure hose, completes the cruise control ground circuit to the
ECM when the cruise control is ON. This circuit is broken when
the brakes are applied, rendering the cruise control inoperative.
Page 17-63
To resume operation use the RESUME switch.
The above switch is installed on the small air manifold located

beneath the driver’s floor panel.
Figure 49 outlines the circuits involved in the cruise control. The

schematic shows that the three (3) switches involved, complete
the ground circuits for the ECM to control the cruise control.
Troubleshooting the Cruise Control System
To properly diagnose any problems associated with the ECM,

the use of Cummin’s INSITE program is highly recommended,
along with Cummins ISC Troubleshooting and Repair Manual,
part #3666245, and the proper test equipment. Without the
proper service information and equipment, damage can be done
to the ECM, sensors, connectors, and terminals. A number of
circuits served by the ECM, throttle control, fan drive do not
operate at 12 volts.
Figure 49
Page 17-64
Note: When checking the Listed below are the only checks that are practical without the
pins in the harness INSITE program and equipment.
connectors be sure to use 1. Check the brake pressure switch and circuit B33 for
Cummins lead part continuity from body ground through pin 33 in the chassis
#3822758. The use of a harness connector (remove from the ECM).
probe or a larger lead, can
damage the pins in the The pressure switch should be CLOSED when the air
connector by spreading the brake system is at operating pressure. It should OPEN
pin, leading to resistance in when the brakes are applied.
that terminal point.
2. Check the cruise control ON/OFF switch fro proper
operation.
3. Check SET/RESUME switch for proper operation.
When move to SET position, circuit B7 should show no

resistance from pin B7 to a good ground. Ignition switch
OFF.
Move switch to RESUME position. Circuit B13 should

show no resistance between pin B13 to body ground.
Ignition switch OFF.
4. If above checks out OK, use the INSITE program or refer

the problems to your Cummins service facility.
Caterpillar Cruise Control
The principle of cruise control operation is basically the same as

Cummins powered units in that the ECM controls the cruise
control system. The major differences are: 1) Caterpillar
completes the POSITIVE circuits in its system, whereas
Cummins completes the GROUND circuits. 2) The circuit
numbers are different between the two systems.
See Figure 50 for an overview of the current flow in the

Caterpillar cruise control system.
Brake pressure switch #2 in circuit 458-900 is located on the

small air manifold beneath the driver’s floor panel. This switch is
normally open when the brake pedal is released, it closes when
the brakes are applied and completes the positive circuit to the
cruise control switch through the ECM on pin #64.
Page 17-65
The cruise control cannot be set to cruise at a speed lower than

30 mph or higher than 75 mph.
Holding the SET or RESUME switch longer than 15 seconds will

cause the cruise control to “kick out”. To place it back in service,
turn the ON/OFF switch OFF and then back ON.
At this point the technician is advised to refer to section PB-15 in

the Caterpillar Electronic Troubleshooting Manual #7ASI-UP in
the event a serious problem arises in the cruise control system.
This manual is a MUST in your shop library, and is available from
your area Caterpillar dealer. This manual takes you through the
troubleshooting process step-by-step. Section P-1.0 in this
manual outlines the Electronic Service Tools required to
effectively troubleshoot problems associated with the engine
electronic systems. Your area service representative can assist
in procuring the necessary equipment.
Listed are several suggestions that might be helpful if the cruise

control does not operate, and you do not have the necessary
test equipment on hand:
1. Cruise ON/OFF switch turned OFF, or an OPEN circuit to
the ON/Off switch.
Figure 50
Page 17-66
Check for a failed pressure switch in the brake.
2. Vehicle speed signal is erratic. Road test to see if

speedometer registers smoothly.
3. Check with driver to see if he/she depressed the
SET/RESUME switch longer than 15 seconds. To do so
will cause the cruise control to “kick out”.
Brake/Accelerator Interlock System
When specified, a brake/accelerator interlock system can be

programmed to prevent moving the bus while a side door or
handicap lift door is OPEN. This is accomplished by a signal
being sent from a switch above the door to the engine ECM,
which restricts fuel flow to the fuel injection system. The ECM
permits only enough fuel to cause the engine to IDLE.
Since the accelerator and brake interlock systems are separate,

they are separated herein by engine make.
Accelerator Interlock - Cummins Engines:

Each side door has a normally open switch, mounted in the
compartment above the door that is OPEN as long as the door
is closed. The door switch closes as the door opens, completing
the positive circuit to the relay, energizing the relay. The relay is
located in the side (front) electrical compartment. The relay
when energized closes the relay contact, completing the
GROUND circuit to the ECM. At this point the ECM restricts fuel
flow to the injection system.
When the side door closes, the positive circuit to the relay is
opened allowing the ECM to resume normal fuel operation. See
Figure 51, schematic for Cummins engines.
Troubleshooting - Cummins Engines:

1. Ignition switch ON, side door OPEN.
2. Check for 12 volts at post 85 of the relay.
If no voltage, check for defective door switch or improper

adjustment of the switch.
3. The relay completes the GROUND circuit to the ECM on
Page 17-67
Cummins engines.
Check the relay for completing the ground circuit from the
side panel ground stud to post 87 of the relay, through the
relay, and circuit B24 to pin 24 at the ECM.
If no problem is found in the circuits, the door switch, or the relay,

the problem lies in the ECM. Exchange the ECM or refer the
problem to your area Cummins service facility. Before replacing
the ECM make sure all circuits are clean, secure, and
functioning as they should.
Accelerator Interlock - Caterpillar Engines:

The principle of operation on the Caterpillar engines is the same
as with Cummins, with one major exception. On Caterpillar units
the accelerator interlock relay completes the POSITIVE circuit to
the ECM. See Figure 52.
The relay receives a voltage signal from the ECM via circuit 993
pin #5 in the chassis-to-ECM connector #7. When the relay is
activated by the closed body door switch, current flows from post
30 (wire #993H) through post 87 and circuit 999 back into the
ECM. The ECM, on receiving this signal, reduces fuel flow to the
injection system.
Figure 51
Page 17-68
Troubleshooting Circuits - Caterpillar Engines:

Note on Figure 52 the body switch has 12 volts input to the
switch which is normally open. When the door is opened this
switch closes, allowing current to flow to the relay. This causes
the relay contactor to move from post 87A to post 87, completing
the ECM circuit through the relay. The relay is located in the side
panel.
On Caterpillar powered units, circuits 993 and 993H bring a

ground from the ECM. With the relay contacts now closed, and
current flowing back to the ECM, the ECM sends a command to
the fuel system to send only enough fuel to cause the engine to
IDLE, regardless of the accelerator pedal position.
If the engine does not IDLE with either door open, make the
following checks:
1. Ignition switch ON-RUN position.
2. Open a side door to close the door switch. Check for 12
volts at post 85 of the relay.
3. If voltage OK at post 30, check for voltage at post 87. It
should be the same as at post 30 (circuit 993H). If voltage
is not the same at both posts, the relay is suspect.
4. If all circuits check out OK, the ECM is causing the
problem.
Before changing the ECM make sure the door switch, switch
adjustment, the relay, and all circuits are functioning properly.
Figure 52
Page 17-69
Side Door Brake Interlock System
When specified by the owner/operator the brakes are applied

and the throttle is reduced to IDLE rpm when the side doors are
OPEN or the handicap lift is in use. Throttle reduction was
covered in the preceding paragraphs.
Figure 53 outlines the circuits involved in the Brake Interlock

System.
System Operation:
When bus speed has been reduced to less than three mph and
the door power switch is ON, the ECM sends a voltage signal to
post 86 of the door/brake interlock relay located in the side
electrical compartment. This signal energizes the relay, allowing
current to flow through the relay to the 5-position door control
switch via circuit 9148.
When the door control is moved to a “Door Open” position,

current is sent to the double pole “Door Disable” switch located
in the driver’s overhead compartment, on the left side. The
purpose of this switch is to make the doors inoperative when the
driver so desires, as when parked. This switch must be ON to
operate the doors.
From one set of contacts of the “Disable” switch, current flows to

post #8 on the junction block located in the compartment above
the door. A jumper wire transfers this circuit to post #7. From
post 7 a circuit containing a diode connects post 7 to post 3.
From post 3 circuit 6009 current flows back to the lower set of
contacts of the disable switch, through the switch and circuit
6009 to the door “Override” switch. The override switch, located
on the left switch panel and covered by a RED guard, allows the
driver to override the brake interlock system in an emergency.
The override switch is a momentary normally closed switch,

meaning the switch is closed at all times when the brake
interlock is in operation. If the driver has to move the bus, for any
reason while the brakes are SET, the override switch is actuated
to the N/C position as soon as the driver releases the switch.
Page 17-70
Figure 53
Page 17-71
The shuttle valve mentioned below is mounted on the ABS brake

relay valve, which is located on the crossmember just ahead of
the rear axle.
From the override switch current flows to the N/C brake solenoid
valve, causing the valve to OPEN and allow 30 psi air pressure
to flow to the shuttle valve and to the rear brake chambers.
The pressure regulator, set at 30 psi, and the solenoid valve are
located inside the right windshield wiper compartment. These
components are installed in a 3/8" yellow brake hose and applies
the rear brakes when the door opens.
Daytime Running Lights, with Starter Interrupt
In many areas it is advisable to minimize as many electrical

loads as possible during the starting process to allow maximum
current to the starter. Headlights, tail lights, and intake air
heating grids can be turned off during this process.
Figure 54 isolates the Start-Interrupt and the Daytime Running

Lights (DRL) current flow when the ignition switch is ON in an
effort to make the system easier to understand.
All exterior lights come ON as soon as the ignition switch is

turned ON. The starter interrupt relay is N/O when the starter is
not being engaged.
Current to the headlights comes from circuit breaker #11 in the

side electrical panel through circuits 259 and 260 to post 87A of
the DRL headlight relay. Current flows through posts 87A and 30
in the relay and circuit 52 to LOW beam. This is the normal flow
of current to Low Beam when the ignition switch is ON and the
headlight switch is OFF.
When the starter is engaged the Start-Interrupt relay closes and

current now flows from C.B. #11 through circuit 511, relay
contacts 30 and 87 and circuit 514 to post 85 of the DRL
headlight relay. This energizes the relay, breaking the current
flow between relay posts 87A and 30 and interrupting the low
beam circuit.
Page 17-72
Figure 54
Page 17-73
As soon as the start switch is released the low beam lights will
come back ON.
The High Beam circuits are not involved in the DRL system. The
headlight switch must be turned ON to use high beams.
When the headlight switch is turned ON, the DRL relays become
inactive and the headlight switch assumes control of head and
tail lights, as well as parking lights.
The diodes used in the DRL headlight and tail light circuits (267
and 268) are connected directly to the headlight switch.
All relays are in the side electrical panel.
Troubleshooting Tips
If the head and tail lights do not go OFF when the starter is
engaged, check for a defective Start-Interrupt relay or a failed six
(6) amp diode in between relay post 87 and post #1 on terminal
block 2 in the side electrical panel.
If the headlights do not come ON, but the tail lights do come ON,
check for a failed DRL headlight relay or a defective diode in
circuit 267.
If the headlights come ON, but the tail lights do NOT, check for
a defective DRL tail light relay or a failed diode in circuit 265.
If the high beams do not come ON with the headlight switch ON,
check for a failed High Beam relay.
Other than the above, perform the usual checks; loose

connections at terminal points, or a defective circuit breaker.
Daytime Running Lights - Tail Light Circuits
Figure 55 outlines the current flow when the Daytime Running

Lights system is in the ON mode, which occurs as soon as the
ignition switch is turned ON. However, it is necessary in certain
climates to eliminate all electrical loads during starting to allow
maximum amperage to the starter. Operators in such areas may
Page 17-74
Figure 55
Page 17-75
order the option to deenergize head, tail, and marker lights, as

well as the intake air grid heaters. The schematic breaks the tail
light circuits down in an effort to make the system easier to
understand.
DRL - Tail Light Circuit, Headlight Switch OFF
Figure 55 shows the tail lights ON as soon as the ignition switch

is turned ON. The Starter Interrupt Relay is “OPEN”, with no
current flowing to post 85 of the Tail Light Relay. Consequently,
this relay is in a fault mode allowing current to flow from circuit
breaker 11 through circuit 258 to post 87A , through relay posts
87A and 30, and circuit 262 to post 3 on terminal block 2 in the
side electrical panel.
This is the circuitry as soon as the starter relay is deenergized.

When the starter relay and solenoid is energized the Starter
Interrupt relay “CLOSES”, allowing current to flow through circuit
513 and diode to post 85 of the DRL relay. This relay is then
energized, breaking the contact between posts 87A and 30 and
current flow from circuit breaker 11 and circuit 258.
Circuit 34 is now completed between post 87 and the headlight

switch. However, since the headlight switch is OFF the circuit is
dead.
If the headlight switch is turned ON, all light circuits are then
controlled by the headlight switch.
Data Link
The phrase Data Link is now a common term used in connection

with the electrical system in total on modern buses and trucks,
as well as automobiles. The question may arise “What is Data
Link - how is it used in today’s electrical system?"
Data Link is a standard or method developed by the Society of

Automotive Engineers that allows various Electronic Control
Units to communicate with each other, as well as with Electronic
Service Tools used in the servicing of electronically controlled
systems. Two SAE standards, J1587 and J1939 known in the
industry as communications protocol, are used by Thomas.
Page 17-76
The electronically controlled transmission sends signals to the

electronically controlled engine, some of it is through the Data
Link. The same applies to the ABS brake control module.
Engine oil pressure and coolant temperature, engine rpm,
vehicle road speed, throttle position, transmission functions are
just some of the signals transmitted between the various ECUs.
In the event of a malfunction, or even a hint of a malfunction, it
is stored in the ECU memory under a code number. By
connecting the Electronic Service Tool to the Data Link
connectors, the technician is able to troubleshoot or repair the
fault code registered.
Data Link connectors are located in the side electrical

compartment and also, in the rear electrical modular box in the
engine compartment.
In the event malfunction codes are stored in the various ECU

memory these fault codes can be read by the Electronic Service
Tool through the Data Link.
In addition to aiding in troubleshooting and repairing a system

the Data Link is used to program certain facets of operation in
the ECM through the use of the Electronic Service Tools required
by the two engine manufacturers. Instructions on the use of
these tools come with each tool.
Page 17-77
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TL960 SERVICE MANUAL

Two electrical compartments are located on the bus to house the

The main electrical compartment located at the left front corner

A second electrical compartment is located in the engine

Figure 1 is an installation drawing of the forward (chassis) panel

Most ground circuits are WHITE in color.

The various relays used in the front compartment are mounted

Figure 3 represents the components in the rear electrical

Figure 4 represents the components in the rear electrical

Figure 5 is a schematic of the chassis related systems on

The column at the extreme left side of the schematic represents

Figure 8 is a schematic of the chassis related systems on

Caterpillar powered buses. Figure 9 and Figure 10 show

Listed here are some abbreviations that will be used throughout

If help is needed on any circuit, or option not covered in the

TL960 Chassis Electrical Schematic

General Recommendations - Maintenance and Repair

The following comments may be helpful in avoiding some of the

The use of an anti-corrosive sealant, such as Graffo 116

Practically all replacement terminals require a special tool

Twisting the wires together is acceptable only if the union

heat shrink tubing extending one inch on each side of the

Wiring left improperly sealed will corrode, and the

In the event a particular circuit breaker continues to trip,

To check current draw on any given circuit, connect an

System Protection from Short Circuits

The electrical system has three means of protection from

In the event the Master Circuit Breaker should trip more

Testing for Voltage Drop

the two points. A difference (or drop) of more than one

Testing for Short to Ground

1. Remove the blown fuse, leaving the battery connected.

Checking Current Draw

Electrical troubleshooting requires the use of common electrical

A voltmeter can be used instead of a test light. While a test light

how much voltage is present.

Never use a test light on circuits that contain solid state

Testing for Voltage:

Standard Headlight and Tail Light Circuitry

The headlight circuit incorporates a relay to protect the dimmer

reason, the headlights would automatically revert back to

Low Beam Operation

The schematic in Figure 17 shows the headlights in the LOW

With the dimmer switch in the LOW beam position there is no

High Beam Operation

The dimmer switch, located in the steering column, (Figure 18)

The HIGH beam indicator lamp is energized by circuit #39 from

See Headlight schematic, Figure 17. Circuit #34 from the

Turn Signal/Hazard Flasher

rear block in the side panel.

Replacement of the turn signal switch is covered under the

Turn Signal Switch Replacement

1. Follow instructions in Steering Wheel Removal.

Remove the quick disconnect terminal blocks from the

6. Reverse above procedure to install the new switch.

The hazard warning light switch is located on the steering

Back-Up Lamp Circuits

Stop Lamp Circuits

Each instrument light grounds through the socket body. Current

headlight switch to the small harness that carries current to each

Power to the gauges is provided by circuit #3 from #8 circuit

Servicing the Instruments

If there is any doubt as to where the wires should be