GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS
Winning formulas
Ingredients | Which of the latest launches of multi-functional
ingredients can help to create innovative products? Belinda Carli,
from the Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS), presents a
convincing selection.
s today’s modern consum-
A
AUTHOR: Belinda Carli, Director of the
Institute of Personal Care Science (IPCS)
er expects more out of every
Coolum Beach, Australia
belinda@personalcarescience.com.au product, and innovative com-
www.personalcarescience.com.au panies continue to expand and de-
liver on this promise, it’s becoming
more and more important for formu-
lators to be aware of, and formulate
with, multi-functional materials.
Consumers are also becoming more
discerning with their sensory ex-
pectations of products, seeking out
competitive pricing and have there-
fore become more product savvy,
using on-line sources to find prod-
ucts that offer and deliver more than
just the standard results.
16 l COSSMA 3 I 2016
Multi-functional materials are those
which offer more than one role. This
could be, for example, a premium
sensory feel from functional materi-
als. The functional materials need to
be present in the product to create it,
so why not use those which meet the
sensory expectations of consumers?
It may be to enhance aesthetics from
photo: Alex Traksel, Shutterstock.com
active ingredients – adding to the
sensory and performance aspects of
the product. Or it could be the use of
actives with multiple benefits which
really boost product claims and
make the finished product truly mul-
ti-functional. The use of multi-func-

NN ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
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Additional information at
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tional materials not only addresses
increasing consumer demands, but
also enables significant cost-savings
for companies as it means less mate-
rials on the floor, larger economies
of scale through larger purchases of
less materials (as one material can
then do ‘more’ in each formulation),
easier formulating methods, and sig-
photo: Neamov, Shutterstock.com
nificant labour savings through less
dispensing and quicker processing.
Multi-functional functional
materials
Sucragel from AlfaCos is a natural,
green, liquid emulsifier. It helps to
Company Ingredient
Lonza LaraCare A200
Beraca Beracare BBA
IBR Phyto(flu)ene
Marinova Maritech Bright
SolabiaBiotecnologica Solashield
create sprayable products through to
rich cream viscosities. It is also a to-
tally green oil thickening agent for
the creation of oily gels, serums,
balms and scrubs that washes off
readily. This emulsifier inspires the
de-velopment of new products that
simply could not have been created
using all green materials before. It is
also cold-processable, representing
significant manufacturing cost-sav-
ings. The true multi-functionality of
this material lies in its lasting hydra-
tion benefits: it has been clinically
shown to boost skin hydration for
up to 8 hours, even in cleansing/
wash off products!
Lubrizol’s Avalure Flex-6 is a polymer
which helps to create diverse and
difficult to stabilise products. In ad-
dition, it provides multiple benefits
to the finished products. It has con-
siderable emulsification/emulsion
stabilising properties, therefore ena-
bling stabilisation of up to 60% oil in
an o/w emulsion. It is suitable for
challenging sunscreen products, as
it is compatible with metal oxides,
Products, with both multi-functional additives and actives, promise more and cost less
GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS
INCI
Galactoarabinan
Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dunaliella Salina Extract
Fucus Vesicu-losus Extract
Aqua, Glycerin, Propanediol, Calcium Alginate, Mica,
Titanium Dioxide, Biosaccharide Gum-4,
Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid
boosts SPF, enables pigment disper-
sion, provides film formation and
water resistance, and provides a soft
powdery skin feel which enhances
the aesthetics of formulation types
that are normally so difficult. It is al-
so cold processable, thus cutting
manufacturing time and costs
through energy savings.
The emulsifiers Biophilic H and
Biophilic S from Lucas Meyer
Cosmetics capture the biomimetic
skin benefits of lecithin and pair it
with lipid derivatives. These ingredi-
ents act as co-emulsifiers that help
stabilise even high contents of oil in
a formulation. They also provide sta-
bility and a sustained release of ac-
tives from a formulation into the
skin, they are also restructuring and
conditioning to the skin, provide a
film that prevents TEWL, have a rich
texture, can build viscosity and im-
part an appealing skin feel to prod-
uct formulations. This ingredient is a
solution for formulators seeking in-
gredients with multiple benefits and
sensory properties.
www.cossma.com l 17
 GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS

NN FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS is substantive to hair, therefore be-

ing particularly useful for heat pro-
Company Ingredient INCI
tection products.
Alfa Chemicals Sucragel Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Glycerine, Water,
The certified organic Beracare BBA*
Sucrose Laurate OR Glycerine, Prunus Amygdalus
from Beraca is one of several organ-
Dulcis Oil, Sucrose Laurate, Aqua (94% CO)
ic actives now being launched – this
Lubrizol Avalure Flex-6 Polyurethane-62, Trideceth-6
enables the creation of ‘Certified Or-
Lucas Meyer Biophilic H Hydrogenated Lecithin, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid ganic’ end products that couldn’t be
Lucas Meyer Biophilic S Lecithin, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid created before; simply because the
Sasol Ceralution H Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate actives just didn’t exist. This ingre-
Citrate, Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 dient provides hair conditioning
Disulfate benefits comparable to cationic con-
Natura-Tec Emulactive Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Palmi- ditioning agents. It can also be used
toyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Soy Isoflavones on the skin to whiten and even skin
tone, increase hyaluronic acid con-
tent, improve firmness and promote
deep hydration.
IBR’s Phyto(flu)ene not only provides
consumers with an immediately vis-
The O/W emulsifier Ceralution H* etary blend of components that ena- ible redness reduction/whitening ef-
from Sasol provides formulation ble an enhanced delivery of active fect, but also has a long lasting an-
flexibility and the creation of pump substances whilst providing a light ti-inflammatory action, is rich in
foams; it also exhibits high affinity touch and velvety after-feel. It is also antioxidants, provides UV absorb-
for the skin and hair. Its true mul- film forming, which prevents TEWL ance and lightens the skin tone with
ti-functional status comes, however, and protects the skin barrier. regular use.
from its anti-oxidant and anti-ageing Maritech Bright from Marinova is
benefits. Multi-functional another certified organic material
The green o/w emulsifier Emulac- active materials which helps to create highly active
tive* from Natura-Tec uses a propri- The multi-functional active Lara- certified organic products. This in-
Care A200* from Lonza provides gredient has clinically proven effica-
multiple skin-tastic benefits. It re- cy as a skin whitener and anti-age
DOWNLOADS duces TEWL; reduces fine lines and spot product. It also has advanced
Additional information at wrinkles by up to 19% within 8 antioxidant benefits and anti-ageing
www.cossma.com/qr00085 weeks; reduces emulsion particle results which reduce wrinkle depth.
Your access codes for March: size for greater stability; boosts SPF Solashield from Solabia Biotec-
User name: cossma2 rating between 5 to 60%; increases nologica is a broad spectrum answer
Password: future the efficacy of skin exfoli-ants; and to the rising pollution and UV issues
consumers face. This ingredient
provides protection from pollution
and heavy metals, is UV boosting, is
an antioxidant and provides both in-
stant smoothing and wrinkle-filling
benefits.

Creating that multi-functional

winning formula
Formulators can get more out of in-
gredients and reap the formulation
and efficacy benefits by combining
multi-functional functionals with
multi-functional actives for products
photo: JPC-PROD, Shutterstock.com

that not only deliver on their prom-is-

es, but, in addition, promise more and
cost less. Trying these options will
help create the innovative multi-func-
tional products of tomorrow. □
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
Actives with multiple benefits boost product claims see download panel

18 l COSSMA 3 I 2016 www.cossma.com

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3 / 2016

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