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Defensa Unitat 1 Textile 02
Defensa Unitat 1 Textile 02
En aquesta unitat:
Ens serà útil per tenir més informació en el moment de comprar, ja que conèixer les
propietats dels materials ens ajudarà a escollir bé.
A l’hora d’escollir també ens hauríem de plantejar altres coses, com ara el medi
ambient o les condicions de treball en que ha estat fet el producte.
Farem un repàs de les professions lligades al tèxtil, que, encara que falta molt, us pot
donar idees sobre el vostre futur. Suposo que tant valdran per a nenes com per a nens,
o no?
El projecte. (20%)
Cada un d’aquests apartats té el pes del tant per cent entre parèntesis, però per poder aprovar
cal tenir com a mínim un 4 en tots ells. No hi ha cap part de la feina menys important que una
altra.
VOCABULARY
Textile vocabulary
PKM
CeeGee
Crysti
stahlmandesign
Dye Verb To dye a material is to change its
colour by soaking it in a coloured
solution.
PxHere
Riala
Nic McPhee
Léon Riotor
Frankenmedia
Wikimedia commons
Efraimstocher
Edal
Public domain
Bru-nO
Sew Verb To sew is to join pieces of fabric
with stitches, by hand or by
machine.
Public domain
Kafziel
22Kartika
Kafziel
Lor
Plain-weave fabric
In plain-weave the warp and weft
Woven fabrics are aligned so that they form a
Woven fabrics are made up simple criss-cross pattern. It is
of a weft - the yarn going strong and hardwearing. It is used
across the width of the for fashion and furnishing fabrics.
fabric - and a warp - the yarn
going down the length of the
loom. The side of the fabric
where the wefts are double
back to form a non-fraying
edge is called the selvedge. Twill-weave
Here are two of the main In twill-weave the crossings of weft
types of woven fabrics: and warp are offset to give a
diagonal pattern on the fabric
surface. Twill weave is strong and
drapes well. It is used for jeans,
jackets and curtains.
Non-woven fabrics
Non-woven fabric is made by bonding or felting:
Bonded-fibre fabrics are made from webs of synthetic [synthetic: man-made - usually from
chemical sources ] fibres bonded together with heat (using their thermoplastic properties) or
adhesives. They are cheap to produce, but not as strong as woven or knitted fabrics. Bon-
ded-fibre fabrics are mainly used for interlining [interlining: layer of fabric sown into the
neck or armholes of a garment to protect and strengthen it. Also called interfacing. ]. They
are easy to sew, crease-resistant, do not fray and are stable to washing and dry-cleaning.
Wool felt is a non-woven fabric made from animal hair or wool fibres matted together using
moisture, heat and pressure. Felt has no strength, drape [drape: the supple and flexible
characteristics of a fabric - how it hangs or behaves when pleated or folded ] or elasticity but
is warm and does not fray. Wool felt is expensive. It is used for hats and slippers and in
handcrafts.
Fabric Finishes
When a fabric is woven it’s usually some shade of beige
or grey depending on the fibre. This is called the ‘greige’.
It has to be treated to make it into a fabric ready for use.
It can be washed ( to clean away impurities), bleached
(to make the colour uniform) and mercerised (to make
the fibres round and filled out).
Methods:
Printing
Fabrics are printed by block or screen printing:
Block printing is done using metal or wooden blocks, one for each colour. The background
shapes are cut away to leave a raised design on the block. Dye is applied and stamped onto
the fabric. This is a very slow process used by specialised craft industries.
In screen printing a pattern is printed onto fabric through a stencil held in place by a screen.
Each screen prints one part of the design in one colour. After printing the dyestuff must be
fixed using steam or dry heat.
Fabric is coated on one side Polyurethane coating is usually applied for water
Coated with a layer of polymer to proofing or repelling (Awnings, swimming pools,
add a surface that might raincoats)
Teflon/Silicone, wool, shrink-resist finish. This results
repel stains or water.
in soft, smooth, lustrous yarns and fabrics that are
machine-washable.
DEBAT CONSUM ÉTIC
Are we free consumers? Do we really choose what we need or want?
What is most important for us when buying? Is it price?
Do we know what we buy?
Are we free to buy whatever we want to? Which are the limits?
What we do as individuals, does it have any impact?
Ethical textiles
https://pumpkintv.co.uk/products/ethical-textiles (3.31)
Environmental Impacts
https://www.pumpkin-interactive.co.uk/products/textiles-environmental-impacts (3.43)
Textiles Eco-design
https://www.pumpkin-interactive.co.uk/products/textiles-eco-design (3.22)
How to Engage with Ethical Fashion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXOd4qh3JKk (17:43)
Fibres
Types of
fibre Manufactured Manufactured Natural
Synthetic Regenerated
Chemicals Polyvinyl
Poly- Poly- Cellulose Cellulose Protein
urethane
used ethylene
Polymerisation
Polymerisation
Process of
making
the fibre
Melt Spinning Wet & dry
Spinning
Wool:
Vinyl Micro fibres: Kevlar Lycra Tencel Cotton Indian,
Lyocell Egyptian, Merino,Superwash,
Courtelle Finesse Cordura Spandex
Acetate Hemp, Kapok Lamb’s wool
Amicor Micro Tactel Nomex
Viscose Hair fibres: Angora,
Tactel Trevira
Uses Aquator
Cashmere
Name four synthetic fibres and then fill in the rest of the chart
Fibre name Organic compound Four properties Two end uses
Name four regenerated fibres and then fill in the rest of the chart
Fibre name Organic compound Four properties Two end uses
Which fibre would you choose to make the following clothing items? Which properties does
it have to justify your election?
Towel (cotton, linen)
A winter jumper (wool)
A summer T-shirt (cotton)
Skiing pants (polyester – water repelent)
A bandage (cotton, acetate)
A piece of undergarment (cotton, acetate)
A nice dress for a very special day (silk)
Sport pants (blend of cotton and polyester, with elastan)
A backpack (nylon)
LABELS
Take as many pictures as you can of different garment labels.
https://wrapyourbaby.com/wrap-care-instructions/
While shopping, you find a lovely garment. You are about to buy it when you see this label.
What do you think? What do you do?
https://downloadt-shirtdesigns.com/blog/why-add-custom-labeling-to-your-t-shirts-2/
1. The following sentences describe the process to obtain a colourful woven fabric from
the original fibres. Fill the blanks and put them in chronological order. (1,5 points)
Fibres need to be stretched so ......................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................
Fibres have to be ............................. in order to arrange them parallelly.
The ........................ is a single thread that ....................................................................
between the threads of the ..............................
Model answer
Fibres should be washed in order to eliminate dirt and vegetal remains.
Fibres have to be combed in order to arrange them parallelly (to form the sliver).
Fibres need to be stretched so the fibre is further elongated.
Fibres should be twisted to make the thread resistant.
To make a woven fabric we first prepare the warp, that is a set of threads parallel to each
other that will be the structure of the final fabric.
The weft is a single thread that is interlaced between the threads of the warp.
In order to put colour in the fabric we can dye or print it.
OPCIÓ B
Match words and definitions.
Use the information above to describe the process to obtain a woven fabric from the raw
fibres.
2. So we already have the fabric and have decided the final product we want to produce.
Now we go to the design and pattern cutting steps. Explain these two processes and
the techniques used. (1,5 points)
Model answer
The design process is done by drawing sketches, often using a model human figure.
Next, the patterns are drawn, usually modifying basic patterns. They can be done
manually or with specific software. There is specialized software (CAD – Computer
Assisted Design) to design patterns.
Patterns should then be graded to all sizes.
3. We arrive at the manufacturing plant with the instructions, the fabric and the patterns.
What other operations have to be done to obtain the final product? Name each
operation and describe it.
These pictures can help you to illustrate the description. (1,5 points)
https://tijerasytelas.blogspot.ie/2012/02/mesa-de-tendido-y-corte-de-camisa.html?m=0
http://www.franciscoaparicio.com/presta/index.php?id_category=342&controller=category
http://www.iade.es/alumnos-de-1o-de-diseno-de-moda-de-iade-realizan-una-visita-a-mirto-
cuna-de-la-camiseria-espanola/
http://imbabura.evisos.ec/maquina-de-bordado-computarizado-12-agujas-id-
120545#blockGallery
Model answer
Layering. Arrange the fabric in layers to cut many pieces at the same time. Big tables are
used.
Layout and transfer. The pieces are distributed carefully to avoid wasting fabric. The
pattern is then transferred, marking the cutting line and any other mark that helps to sew them
correctly.
Cutting, with vertical or circular cutting machines.
Sewing. Sew the pieces following the sequence specified in the instructions. Each seam must
be closed.
Labelling. To sew a label with the fabric composition and laundry instructions.
Pressing and packaging. Press the item to shape it. Packaging to protect the item in the
store..
OPCIÓ B (guided)
Before cutting, what has to be done with the fabric?
How do you prevent wasting to much fabric in the cutting process?
Which machines are used to cut the fabric?
Does it have any importance where you begin sewing?
Which kind of information do you find in a label?
After labelling the item, what has to be done before putting it in the store?
4. The buying manager of a shop has seen our product in a catalogue and he is interested
in it. Choose the kind of a shop: retail or e-commerce, and the explain: What are
his/her reasons to choose this business model? Explain advantages and disadvantages
of the model chosen (1 point)
The same buying manager phones our sales manager. What does he/she ask? What
kind of things interest he/she most? (1 punt)
Model answer
Prices. Discounts.
Minimum order.
Payment conditions.
Delivery system.
Return policy.
OPCIÓ B (guided)
What kind of discount can he/she ask for?
What is a minimum order?
What means payment conditions? Put examples.
Explain a possible return policy.
Specifications: What do you intend to make? What will it be used for? Size, fabrics and other
materials...
Pattern
Process description
Budget