TRADER AIDS, THIRD SERIES,

9 SEPTEMBER 1969

Servicing Data Sheet No. 10-3

HONDA SS 125A
INFORMATION
The SS125A was introduced by its makers to the U.k market in August 1968 and
as it name implies is in the 125cc capacity class. It has a strong design resemblance
to its next larger brother the 175 model, and is typically Honda in design and
construction, with such characteristics as a wide use of light alloy in many
components.
A brief technical description shows that the engine is a 124cc parallel twin,
with the cylinders inclined forward and the two valves per cylinder operated in
squish type heads by a single chain driven overhead camshaft. The three-piece cast
iron crankshaft runs in two main bearings, the bigends being caged rollers.
Primary drive is by helical gears, with a rubber buffer shock absorber in the clutch,
then through four speeds selected by a foot-change and a chain to the rear hub.
Engine and gearbox are in unit, the two basic castings having a horizontal
joint on the line of the crank and gear shafts, and this is attached to the pressed
steel frame by four bolts. The frame is all welded, in the shape of a shallow T, the
centre section housing battery, coil, tools, and providing a pivot point for normal
swinging arm rear suspension, controlled by sealed-unit hydraulically damped
springs. At the front, substantial telescopic forks have the main springs within the
stanchions.
Lubrication of the engine and gears is by oil contained in the sump, which
is circulated by a plunger pump through a mesh and a centrifugal filter. A feature
of this is the very high rate of circulation, and there is a recommendation to
change the oil every 620 miles (1,000 Km).
Carburation is by a single Keihin instrument with an unusual feature, the
movement of the throttle slide being controlled by a pressure variations acting on
a diaphragm. The construction is very simple, however, and a description is given
elsewhere in this sheet.
From a servicing point of view, the machine is extremely easy to work on;
there are only three or four hexagon nut sizes used, most of the screws are of the
cross-head type in two sizes, and there are no left-hand threads. Moreover, all
component parts are designed to fit together easily, if force seems to be necessary
then the assembly is wrong.
Workshop service tools
As with all Hondas, a complete set of special workshop tools is available
for this model, neatly packed in a box with the model number stamped on the lid.
A complete list of the tools is not printed here, for reasons of space, but it
includes for the engine tools for removing and fitting valve guides, a set of cutters
for the inlet and exhaust valves, conrod supports and piston ring compressors for
use when re-assembling, and an extractor for the generator rotor, and for the
frame group there are tools for changing rear suspension springs, for fitting oil
seals to the front forks, and for the steering head stem nut.
It is essential to have these tools if extensive work is to be done on this
model, as only one, possibly two, of the items is interchangeable with tools for
other Honda models.
Workshop manual
This is a comprehensive, well-illustrated publication. It must be read
carefully, however, as it deals with both the 175 and the 125 models, and in some
instances, procedures described for the smaller model, consequently the reader
must turn back to the appropriate section of the first part of the book. Moreover,
each operation is described complete in itself, with, removal and replacement of
say, piston rings is described as one operation, whereas in practice replacement of
such items might come later in a long sequence of engine building operations.
It will also be found that many of the reassembly instructions merely advise
the reader to “assemble the … in the reverse order of disassembly”. One of the
aims of this sheet is therefore to supplement such instructions with rather more
detailed notes, where necessary.
However, the Manual is extremely thorough in giving figures showing
permissible limits of wear, and how to measure these, for all moving parts, and
using the information given no dealer should be in doubt or difficulty in
determining whether or not a particular part should be replaced.
Cross-reference to the Manual will be shown in these notes as Man. 78,
meaning that the reader should refer to p. 78 of the Manual.
Permissible wear data
Engine Valves (renewable): Man. 73 and 78. Valve guides (renewable):
Man. 73. Valve seats (can be re-cut but not renewable): Man.78. Camshaft (not
renewable): Man. 75. Rocker arms and shafts (renewable): Man. 76. Valve springs
(renewable): outer, free length 32.1mm, replace if less than 31.0mm, inner, free
26.1mm and replace at 25.6mm.
Cylinder bores (can be honed and/or rebored): Man. 79. Pistons
(renewable): Man. 88. Piston rings grooves: Man. 88 (piston must be replaced if
groove(s) are over wear limits). Gudgeon pin bearing bosses (in piston): Man. 89.
(Piston must be replaced if bearings have worn beyond limits). Gudgeon pins are
renewable, but only availably in standard size.
Piston rings (renewable): Man. 89. Pistons and rings are available in
oversize in four “steps” of 0.25mm each.
Crankshaft: Man. 88. Note – main bearings and/or conrods and bigend
bearings are available only as complete replacement crankshaft assemblies, even
though the individual parts are listed separately.
Engine settings
Valve (tappet) clearances: all valves 0.05mm (0.002in) cold. Note – this is a
minimum setting, on an engine driven hard at all times the clearance may be
increased up to 0.10mm (0.004in).
Valve timing (both cylinders): Inlet opens 5deg BTDC, closes 20deg
ABDC. Exhaust opens 25deg BBDC, closes 5deg ATDC. (Man. 75 – camshaft is
one-piece so variations per valve or cylinder are not possible).
Ignition timing: Fixed-correct setting (and functioning of auto-advance
mechanism) can only be checked accurately with a strobe light (Man. 149-150).
Contact breaker gap: 0.3-0.4mm (0.012-0.016in), Man. 150.
Sparking plug: NGK D-8HS, gap 0.6-0.7mm (0.024-0.028in).
Carburettor: Keihin CVC 21HA. Normal setting – Main jet 95, pilot jet 35,
needle 18237 in middle groove of five, throttle slide cutaway 2.5. Fuel level 21mm.
Note – these are the only items readily altered or changed, see Man. 95-100 and
notes on carburettor later in this sheet.
Lubrication
Engine and gearbox: 2.1 pints, grade SAE 20W when used in temperatures
0-15C (32-60F), and SAE 30W (above 15C (60F)). Regular changing of
engine/gear oil is most important, see Man. 162 for mileage intervals.
Front fork: Each leg, 135-145cc of SAE 10W30 oil, (Man. 107).
Torque settings
Correct figures for any nuts or bolts, which have to be tightened with a
torque wrench, are given wherever necessary in the Manual. A number of these
settings are collated and repeated on p. 159.
The Honda SS125A
engine in part
cutaway.
On the left can be
seen part of the
horizontal crankcase
joint, at the top is the
camshaft cover,
which is also the
upper engine
mounting.
Inset shows the
camshaft chain
tensioner which is
pressed against the
slack run of the
chain by a spring-
loaded hydraulically
damped plunger,
with the adjuster
screw, protected by a
rubber grommet,
above.
 LUBRICATION
The basic principle of the lubrication system of the SS125A engine-gear
unit is that a relatively small quantity of oil, 2.1 pints, is circulated to all bearing
surfaces and moving parts at a very high rate. The rate is approximately 1 gall per
hour at full revs, equivalent to saying that the contents of the sump are circulated
completely every 15 minutes.
It is no gimmick that the oil should be changed every 1,000Km (620m) and
the filters cleaned every 6,000Km(3,720m), because if this routine is not followed
not only with the filters choke-up through the dirt in the oil, but ever bearing
surface in the engine unit will be affected.
Dealers should stress the importance of regular oil changes to riders, who
are most likely to be responsible for doing the job. Given correct lubrication, this
high performance unit will have a very long life without major replacements being
necessary.
Details of the system plunger pump, driven by a “conrod” from an
eccentric behind the clutch, which picks up oil from the sump via a gauze filter,
and forces if through a centrifugal filter on the right-hand crankshaft. The oil is
then forced along drillings to every moving part, falling eventually back into the
sump by gravity. This is shown diagrammatically on Man. 85, together with details
of the pump and centrifugal filter.
Centrifugal filter
Give the right-hand crankcase cover a thorough external cleaning, and then
remove the three cross-head screws holding the circular filter cover. This has a
very deep spigot with two O-rings, and there are two slots to allow screwdriver
blades to be inserted to ease the cover outwards.
The filter is now exposed – do not attempt to dismantle and clean it in
position and do not try to remove it by grasping the central boss with pliers. The
boss is part of the bearing in the outer cover, pliers would scratch it. Use two
pieces of wire with the ends bent to pull the filter outwards – better still, remove
the ks. Crank and the 10 cross-head screws holding the outer cover, which has to
come off anyway, to get at the pump gauze filter.
With the crankcase cover off, the centrifugal filter can be pulled gently off
the crankshaft – note the small internal O-ring behind the driving pin.
Four screws hold the two parts of the filter together, with a large O-ring to
seal the joint. Wash all parts in petrol thoroughly, absolute cleanliness is essential.
The O-ring should only be used again if it is undamaged and undistorted.
Assemble the filter, and put aside for the moment.
Pump gauze filter
This is below the pump, which must be removed to free the filter screen,
also the clutch must be removed to free the pump drive. Remove the four clutch
spring studs, the ring behind them, then the pressure plate and the mushroom-
headed pushrod end. Remove the clutch springs and plates. Use circlip pliers to
spread the circlip that retains the clutch centre, and remove this.
Knock up the tabs locking the hexagon nuts which hold the pump body,
undo the nuts, then remove both clutch body and pump body together, bringing
them squarely away. The pump body has a paper gasket.
 The gauze filter screen is located in a slot at the base of the pump body. It
should be washed in petrol; again absolute cleanliness is essential.
Re-assembly
This is a straightforward process. The clutch body has to be twisted slightly
to engage the primary drive teeth as its pushed home. Do not forget the clutch
pushrod end piece before the pressure plate is fitted, and do not omit to lock the
pump securing nuts after they are tightened.
Now fit the centrifugal filter rotor, making sure that the driving pin is
aligned with the slot in the crankcase end. Push home gently, to avoid rolling the
internal O-ring out of its groove.
Fit the crankcase cover using a new gasket if necessary, tighten the ten
screws that secure it, and fit the ks. Crank. Make sure the tagged thrust washer is
in position on the outer boss of the rotor.
Put a light smear of oil on the two large O-rings on the filter cover, then
offer this up to its housing and push gently home, making sure the O-rings are not
displaced. This cover can only be fitted in the correct position as the three screws
are not symmetrically placed.

REMOVING UNIT FROM FRAME

The unit must be removed from the frame for decarbonisation, or for any work
on the crankshaft or gear assemblies. However, the unit can be left in position if it
desired to work only on components within the left-hand or right-hand crankcase
covers, and it is an advantage to remove these components as the first stage(s) of
a decarbonisation or strip-down, as the unit is held firmly in the frame. The
components are detailed below.
Right-hand side Centrifugal oil filter (behind circular outer cover).
Clutch, primary drive, oil-pump, ks. Return spring, and gear change mechanism.
Left-hand side Contact-breaker (behind circular outer cover). Auto timing
device, generator rotor and stator, neutral indicator switch, final drive sprocket,
clutch operating assembly, and circlip locating gear change lever spindle. Also
camshaft chain tensioner.
Note – when removing the generator stator, it may be found that the
plastic block (housing the connectors on the generator leads) will not come free of
the centre-frame unless the four engine bolts are loosened, allowing the unit to be
moved slightly.
 DECARBONISATION
The operation is covered in Man. 70-79 incl. The notes that follow are
supplementary to the instructions given.
Dismantling
Carburettor It is not necessary actually to remove this – if the two inlet
union nuts and washers are removed, the instrument can be left on the machine,
supported by the air cleaner hose, when the engine unit is lifted away.
Left-hand crankcase cover(s) Only the rear cover need be removed at
first, to expose the rear chain connecting link and the clutch cable. The front part
may be left in position – it will have to be removed when the valve timing is being
re-set, but until the it gives protection to the contact breaker, etc.
Engine support A block of wood 6in high is useful to support the
crankcase as the engine bolts are withdrawn.
Re-assembly
Cylinder head breather This comprises a baffle plate, with gasket on each
side, which is clamped by six head cover nuts. The boltholes are not symmetrical,
so the plate can only be fitted with the two baffles near the exhaust ports, and the
baffles should slope down toward the camshaft.
Head cover nuts Of the six, the cap nut is fitted to the right-hand read
stud (up which come the oil supply to the camshaft).
Valve timing To set this, the crankshaft position must be known
accurately. Remove the contact breaker cover, the c/b assembly, then the forward
part of the left-hand crankcase cover. Undo the centre bolt of the rotor, and
remove the auto timing assembly. The position of the key in the centre boss of
the rotor can now be checked, turn the rotor until the keyway points toward the
camshaft.
Turn the camshaft until all the valves are closed and the right-hand piston
is at TDC of its compression stroke – this can be checked as both tappets will
have clearance, whereas the left-hand inlet valve will be just starting to open.
(Man. 73, sec. D, note (1), does not state that it is the r-h cylinder that is on
compression).
Connect the camshaft chain link and position the camshaft sprocket in the
upper loop of the chain, with its O-mark facing the O-mark on the joint face. In
this position it should be possible to insert both camshaft sprocket bolts, but note
that the boltholes are not symmetrical in the camshaft flange. If the bolts cannot
be started, the camshaft is not in its correct position and must be rotated 180deg.
Note also that the shorter bolt fits into the hole nearest to the centre of the
camshaft.
Tappet setting If the valves have been ground-in, however lightly, the
tappets will need resetting. They are very accessible once the cap above each valve
is removed. The setting is 0.05mm (0.02in) when cold, but see also note given
earlier under “engine settings”.
Camshaft chain tension To refit the camshaft chain it will have been
necessary to screw in the tensioner screw clockwise, until all the tension was
removed (Man. 82). To re-set, proceed as follows.
 Turn the engine backwards until the left-hand inlet valve is fully open
(checked through the tappet hole) then forward until the valve is just at the point
of closing – this can be checked be tappet clearance.
Now turn the tensions screw anticlockwise until a resistance to turning is
felt, hold the screw in this position whilst the locknut is tightened.

GEARBOX
If a complete stripping of the engine is necessary, the procedure already noted
under “Removing Unit from Frame” can usefully be followed. Note that if the
crankshaft does not require attention, the cylinder head and barrel could be left in
position, to protect the pistons, conrods and holding-down studs when the unit is
turned upside-down in the last stage of work.
The stages are detailed on Man. 86, but note that there is only one drain
plug, not two as stated in Para 3.5 1A.
Gear change spindle If it is decided to remove this, the locating circlip is
on the left-hand side of the lower (under) crankcase. It need not be removed
when the crankcases are split, provided that, on the right-hand side, the top
spring-loaded pawl lever which moves the gearchange drum is unhooked from the
teeth on which it engages.
Crankcase fastenings The two halves are held by four 8mm studs which
surround the main bearings (one has a cap nut), three 6mm studs which surround
the gear shafts, and six 6mm bolts (three at front, three at back). Two of the 8mm
nuts, and one 6mm, are on the upper crankcase, all remainder are underneath.
Gear pinion bearings Where bronze bushes are inserted into pinions,
these are not renewable as separate items. If worn, the complete pinion must be
replaced.
Crankcase joint The two halves are located by two hollow dowels, and
there is no gasket. The joint faces are machined to a very smooth finish. All traces
of the old cement must be removed carefully to avoid damaging the faces.
Cement recommended for use when reassembling is Hylomar Universal
Jointing Compound, SQ.32/M Medium (made by Marston Lubricants Ltd, Naylor
Street, Liverpool 3).
Re-assembly of gears Both gear shafts, complete with pinions and
bearings, and the complete ks. Assembly, can all be fitted back into the upper half
crankcase without straining or juggling. This is most easily done by having the
cleaned half case upside-down on the bench. Refit the selector forks (if they have
been removed) with the forks in the middle; the fork on the right (as seen) will
engage the mainshaft, the 1-h fork engages the countershaft.
Kick-starter spindle Fit this without its return spring, and with the stop
lug (on the crank end of the spindle) pointing vertically up toward the fitter.
Re-fitting lower case Paint the joint face evenly with a little jointing
compound, make sure the two hollow dowels are in position, and offer it to the
upper half case, making sure the long studs are not distorted as the two parts are
joined.
The two halves should fit together without forcing – if they will not mate
easily, remove the lower half and look for a component misplaced which is
causing the obstruction.
 If the gearchange spindle is already fitted to the lower half case, make sure
the upper pawl is engaged with the teeth on the drum as the case is pushed home.
Tightening bolts The positions of the various bolts and nuts is shown in
the diagram. The manual does not give any sequence for tightening or
recommended torque settings; commence tightening the four 8mm nuts round the
main bearings, then work diagonally outwards. Tighten each a little at a time and
try to avoid over-tightening any one nut or bolt.
Kick-starter return spring Fit this after all fastenings have been
tightened; it requires a minimum “winding-up” for both ends to be located.
Check on assembly Before commencing re-assembly of other components,
check that all shafts move freely.

Diagrammatic drawings of three of

the crankcase castings showing the
types and lengths of the fixing screws
or bolts. The figures give the lengths
in millimetres (NB – drawings are not
to scale).
 CARBURETTOR
The Keihin carburettor fitted to the SS125A is of the constant velocity type, and
unusual in that the twist grip is not connected directly by the cable to the throttle
slide. The latter is fixed at its top by a nylon bush to the middle of a very thin
rubber diaphragm, the outer diameter of which is clamped in the joint between
the main body and the top piece of the instrument. In the centre of the nylon
bush is a two-piece spring-loaded valve, which can open or close a passage
between the induction pipe and the chamber about the diaphragm.

Keilin CVC21HA carburettor in section, the small right-hand inset showing how the throttle
slide is fixed in the middle of the thin rubber diaphragm trapped by the top cover – note that a
drain plug has now been added to the lowest part of the float chamber.

When the twistgrip is opened, it raises a lever (within the chamber) that
allows the valve to be opened by its springs, so induction depression is applied to
the top of the diaphragm and the slide lifts to achieve a pressure balance.
Conversely, when the twistgrip is closed, the lever overcomes the springs of the
valve, which then shuts off the passage to the induction pipe and atmospheric
pressure is admitted above the diaphragm, so the slide drops.
The action of the carburettor can be more easily understood by studying
the illustrations on p. 97 of the Manual. Fig. 3-201 shows idling, and Fig. 3-202
shows acceleration. In Fig. 3-203 the engine is on full throttle, whilst Fig 3-204
shows a cruising speed condition.
The remainder of the carburettor is normal, with a float chamber which
surrounds the main jet and a needle jet, in which moves a needle attached to the
throttle slide above. For cold starting there is a hand operated butterfly choke,
with a spring loaded relief valve inserted in to it to prevent too rich a mixture
being delivered when the engine fires. The pilot jet has an adjustable air inlet that
can vary the air-fuel mixture at idling speed, which is controlled directly by an
adjustable throttle stop acting on the slide.
Phases of action Idling is controlled by the pilot jet, its air inlet and the
throttle stop. Initial throttle opening is controlled by the cutaway of the throttle
slide – control ceases above half-throttle. From one-quarter to three-quarters
opening, control is by the throttle needle and needle jet. From three-quarters to
full throttle, control is by the main jet, but about this is an atomiser fed by an air
jet in the main intake, and this atomiser affects the fuel-air mixture on full throttle.
Carburettor adjustment As delivered, the carburettor is set to give
optimum performance, and although some parts (such as main jet, throttle slide,
needle jet and needle) can be changed to give richer or weaker mixture at various
parts of the speed range, the carburettor should not necessarily need such
adjustment if performance falls off. Other possible causes should be investigated
first, such as incorrect valve or ignition timing or tappet adjustment.
Cleaning carburettor If dirt in the float chamber is suspected, there is a
drain plug which when removed allows the chamber to be flushed out. If trouble
still persists, the float chamber can be removed by prising aside the spring clip; the
main jet, float needle and valve will be visible, the pilot jet requires a fine-bladed
screwdriver for removal.
Removing carburettor If it decided to remove the instrument completely,
the sequence is: disconnect petrol pipe and throttle cable, detach clutch cable at
h/bar level to allow slack in cable run, slacken clip holding air-cleaner hose to inlet
pipe, remove two nuts and washers on inlet union. Now pull the carburettor back
squarely, compressing the rubber of the air-cleaner hose until the instrument can
be freed from its mounting studs.
Dismantling If it is intended to dismantle the upper chamber which
houses the rubber diaphragm, first give the instrument a thorough clean with
petrol. The top piece of the chamber is retained by four screws with spring
washers, when these are removed the pieces can be separated. The outer rim of
the rubber diaphragm forms the sealing washer, which makes the chamber an
effective airtight, that is responsive to pressure changes. Therefore, the greatest
care, and scrupulous cleanliness, must be used when handling the parts.
Petrol filter The hexagon head, below the bowl, is not solid but is
relatively thin metal, formed as part of the bowl. Never use an open-ended spanner on
this, always use a ring or socket spanner to avoid distorting the bowl.
Manual – misprints Pages 95-100 give a very complete coverage of the
construction and servicing of the instrument, and reading this, it may help dealers
to note two minor misprints. These are : 1) page 96, Para 2.A, third line – for
“needle jet (4)” read ”needle jet(9)”; and 2) Para 3, third line, for “float chamber
(7)” read “float chamber (17)”.
 SUSPENSION
Rear dampers These are the internal parts of the complete suspension
legs and each is a complete sealed unit, replaceable only by unit. Note that Man.
117 quotes the amount and grade of oil used, but in fact there is no drain or filler
plug.
Front forks Either leg may be removed independently, without disturbing
h/bars, lamp assembly or stearing head. After removing the wheel and unbolting
the mudguard stay, the leg is freed by slackening the clamp bolt in the lower fork
crown, then removing the centre bolt in the upper fork crown, the leg can then be
pulled downwards.
To dismantle further, remove the internal circlip at the top of the slider,
below this is an oil seal and a flanged bearing. This (named “guide” in the Parts
List) and a similar but unflanged bearing (“piston”) at the bottom of the main
stanchion, are both renewable in the event of wear, as is the valve ring, which has
a restricted floating motion, between them.
Re-assembly When fitting the oil seal and cir-clip into the top of each
slider, using the workshop Tools (seal driving guide and weight) it may be found
that the job is easier if a second person compresses the leg against the spring –
this relieves pressure against the seal.
The top anchor bolt for each leg is also the oil filler.
FRONT AND REAR HUBS
Hub bearings Both hubs use identical cages bearings, of the sealed type,
with a plastic sealing strip visible on one side. When fitting new bearings make
sure this strip faces outwards.
Front hub oil seals There are two garter type seals, one on the exposed
left-hand side, and the other much larger that seals off the speedo-meter drive and
prevents grease getting on the brake shoes.
Speedo drive Two flat tongues on the driving pinion engage with two
recesses milled into the end of the hub. When reassembling, these tongues can be
distorted if they are not seated correctly – to avoid this first fit them into position
on the hub, then slide the brake plate down the spindle, giving it a twist to engage
the pinion teeth.
Rear hub and cush drive There is only one oil seal, fitted on the exposed
left-hand side of the hub; on the opposite side the seal of the bearing prevents
grease escaping into the brake. The sprocket is retained on the hub flange by a
circlip.
Note that the cush drive rubbers can be replaced if necessary – there is
another similar cush drive in the clutch, but this assembly is riveted together and
so the rubbers are not renewable.