pompom

quarterly

Issue 2
Autumn 2012
£9.50

Editors: Lydia Gluck and
Meghan Fernandes
Design: M Wyse
Photography: Juju Vail
Tech Editor: Ruth Garcia-Alcantud
Illustrations: Lydia Gluck
Models: Jenny Block, Lydia Gluck
Advertising: Kate Long
For advertising and submission
opportunities email us at
contact@pompommag.com
Thank you to:
test knitters: Jemima Bicknell and
Kate Ellis; yarn support: Gemma
Towns, Natalie Fergie, Jamiesons
of Shetland; also Ce Persiano and
Quadrille Publishing, gorgeous
jewellery by Emma Cassi
Stay in touch:
www.pompommag.com
twitter.com/pompommag
facebook.com/pompommag
ravelry.com/groups/pom-pom
First of all, we need to say a big THANK YOU to the very many lovely
people who have bought, subscribed, stocked, blogged about, podcasted,
tweeted and generally said nice things about the first issue of Pom Pom.
We want to give you all big virtual bear hugs in thanks (or real ones if you
see us around - we've been giving those out too!). All the support we've
had means that we've been able to make this issue even lovelier than the
first, if we do say so ourselves! In our first issue we mentioned we weren't
quite sure where the Pom Pom path would lead, but now we've got a good
feeling that issues will get a little bit bigger (not compromising on quality
of course), with more contributors and interesting crafty things for you
to read about. We're going to make sure every issue of Pom Pom is one
you're going to want to settle down with, mug in hand, to read through and knit + crochet
then revisit again and again for the patterns and projects. We want Pom
Pom to be your BFF in magazine form. Celaya 4
Which takes us to this issue. We've gone a little crazy for colour. Pom Pom's fave new designer does
Every project in this issue, bar our crochet cover girl, uses colourwork of sophisticated fair isle.
some kind and we can't wait to see how you all interpret these with your
own colour choices and styling. Ever picked up two, or even three skeins Abuelita 6
of yarn in your LYS and thought, "I MUST make something with these A lacy, layer-able crochet top.
together. They are made for each other, and made for me!"? Well, here's
your chance to work those colour combos. And for all you crocheters out
Onda 8
there, and those of you who want to dabble in the "dark art", give Abuelita A pretty, pretty cardi with a colourwork
a try - easy, lacy crochet? You can't go wrong. collar and cuffs to die for.
We're also introducing two of our favourite ladies to you in our articles - Contigo 10
find out more about up-and-coming designer Anna Wilkinson on page 20 Triangles and ombre combine for a
and learn about the Brighton and Hove life of master-dyer Ce Persiano traditional/trendy (trenditional?) cowl.
on page 16. Also read up on how to make a Chili Chocolate Mocha Cake
and prepare yourself for Halloween with our awesome Day of Dead Vivo 12
embroidery tutorial. Your plain tote bags will thank you. Conquer your fear of intarsia in
As always, we would love to hear what you think of Pom Pom. More the round and get some adorable mitts out
crochet? Less jibber-jabbering in the editors' letter? Let us know! And of the deal.
don't forget to post your projects in our Ravelry group - there's often a
good prize going in our KALs, and we wouldn't want you to miss out! Lupita 14
Everyone needs Mexican blanket-inspired
love,
socks. Everyone.
pom pom x
p.s. watch out for Issue 3 in November - set to be our biggest ever - with words
appropriately oversized knits and some special holiday sparkle...
The Uncommon Thread 16
Getting to know dyer Ce Persiano in her
©2012. Copyright Pom Pom Quarterly. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine
may be copied or reproduced without written permission of the publisher.
adopted hometown of Brighton & Hove.
Anna Knits 20
Lovely Anna Wilkinson's got a new book
out you're going to want to see.
treats
Chili Chocolate Mocha Cake 18
Warm up cool autumn evenings with
this decadently rich cake.
Dia de los Muertos Embroidered Tote 36
Use as many colours as possible to transform
a plain tote bag into Day of the Dead awesomeness.
2 3
 by Anna Wilkinson

Pattern, pattern, pattern is what this cardigan's all about. You can Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) To fit bust: 32
go crazy with your colour choices here - the graphic colourwork (34, 36, 38, 40) " / 81 (86, 91, 97, 102)
and traditional construction of Celaya will keep it sophisticated cm with 8-10 cm / 3-4" positive ease
while you have fun with these bite-sized balls of Shetland yarn. Yarn: Jamiesons of Shetland Double
Make a mistake in your fair isle? Quickly cover it with some clever Knitting (100% Shetland wool, 25 g =
duplicate stitching, maybe some creative embroidery, or let your 75 m / 82 yd)
error become a distinctive little quirk to make your cardi unique. Colours shown:
The crocheted edge makes for some quick finishing - don't worry
Colour A: Mulberry: 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) balls
if you've not crocheted before, you'll get the hang of simple single Colour B: Eesit/white: 6 (6, 6, 7, 7)
crochet stitches in no time flat. balls
Colour C: Clyde Blue: 6 (6, 6, 7, 7)
balls
Colour D: Sorbet: 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) balls
Colour E: Poppy: 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) balls
Colour F: Fuchsia 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) ball for
crochet edging
Gauge: 30 sts and 32 rows = 10 cm /
4" in stocking st
Needles: 3.75mm needles (or size
needed to obtain gauge), 4 mm / G
See pattern on page 24 crochet hook, darning needle

5
 by Meghan Fernandes

This top is perfect for Indian Summer days or layered over long Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL)
sleeves when it gets chillier. We know that lots of knitters aren't To fit bust: 71-76 (81-86, 91-96, 102-
completely comfortable with crochet yet, but this top is simple 107, 112-117) cm /
enough to get you started. Working with laceweight yarn means
28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46)"
that the stitches traditionally used for granny squares are made
delicate and elegant enough to wear on a night out. This top has Finished Measurements:
quite a lot of ease to make it suitable for layering, but if you'd like Bust: 81 (91, 102, 112, 122) cm /
a more fitted top, try going down a size - the nature of the crochet 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)"
stitches means that they will stretch to fit to your body shape. Yarn: The Yarn Yard Spinel (80%
superwash Blue Faced Leicester,
20% silk, 100 g = 800 m / 874 yd), 1
(1, 1, 2, 2) skeins
Colour shown: Chutney
Gauge: 23 sts and 10 rows = 10 cm /
4" in pattern.
Hook: 4mm / Size G or size
necessary to get gauge
Notions: darning needle, removable
See pattern on page 27 stitch markers

6 7
 by Lydia Gluck

Onda is an open cardi, perfect for twilight Autumn evenings, Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL)
something to bring a little whimsy to shortening days. The Measurements: Back width – 34
cuffs and front panels of this cardigan are finished with bright (37,39.5, 42, 45) cm / 13.5 (14.5, 15.5,
scalloped colourwork, which contrasts with the neutral main 16.5, 17.5)"
colour – a great way to use a few daring shades! A sewn hem is Sleeve size - 24 (26, 28, 33, 37) cm /
worked at all cast off edges, which adds drape at the back, and 9.5 (10, 11, 13, 14.5)" around the top
stops the colourwork from curling up. of arm
Yarn: Koigu Premium Merino (KPM)
– Fingering/4 ply (100% merino, 50g
= 160m/175yd), 1 ball of each CC, 5
(5, 6, 6, 7) balls MC .
Colours Shown: Main colour – 2369,
Contrast colour 1 (coral) – 1193,
Contrast colour 2 (red) - 2229
Gauge: 28sts and 36 rows = 10 cm
/ 4”
Needles: 3.25 mm / US 3 and 2.75
mm / US 2 circular needles 80 cm
/ 32” or longer (or size needed to
obtain gauge)
Notions: darning needle, waste
See pattern on page 28 yarn, 4 removable stitch markers

9
 by Meghan Fernandes

Who doesn't love a bit of ombre these days? With Contigo we've Size: 40 cm / 15.75" wide x 18 cm / 7"
mixed the trend for graduated colour with a traditional Shetland tall (laid flat)
yarn to create a cowl that's interesting and timeless. Play around Yarn: Jamieson's Shetland Spindrift
with your colour choices (Jamieson's have over 180 shades) (100% pure Shetland wool, 25 g =
and wear it with a contrasting stripe or print for extra pattern 105 m / 115 yd)
loveliness. Be sure to keep your floats (the strands that are Colours shown:
carried at the back of the work) loose to avoid puckering. If you'd
Colour A: 114 Mooskit/White, 1 ball
like a smaller cowl with less drape, try knitting the pattern with
Colour B: 680 Lunar, 1 ball
a smaller size needle. Colour C: 1010 Seabright, 1 ball
Colour D: 135 Surf, 1 ball
Gauge: 28 sts and 26 rows = 10 cm / 4"
Needles: 4mm / US6 60 cm / 24"
circular needles
Notions: darning needle,
See pattern on page 31 stitch marker

10
 Size: to fit the average adult
woman's hand (length adjustable),
25.5 cm / 10" from cuff to tip of mitt
Yarn: Mirasol Tuhu (50% llama,
40% wool, 10% angora, 50 g = 105 m
/ 115 yd), 1 skein MC, 1 skein CC
Colours shown:
MC: 2008 Cream
Pink: 2005 Pop Pink
Blue: 2003 Turquoise
Orange: 2000 Orange
Gauge: 22 sts and 26 rows = 4" / 10
cm in stocking stitch
Needles: 3.5mm / US 5 and 4mm / US
6 DPNs or circular needles of at least
80 cm / 30" length for magic loop
Notions: darning needle, stitch
marker, scrap yarn in contrasting
color (as stitch holder)
Note: You will need two 11 g bobbins
of MC, and two 6 g bobbins of CC
These mittens look simple, and are once you get the hang of
per mitt. It is helpful to wind these
knitting intarsia in the round. We took a page out of the amazing amounts into bobbins before you
Estonian book, Designs and Patterns from Muhu Island, in which knit to eliminate a lot of untangling
they divulge their trick involving turning circular knitting back and while knitting. To wind into bobbins,
forth in order to work large sections of colour in the round. It may you can weigh out the yarn on your
seem tricky at first, but after the first few rows it'll all click and kitchen scale, wrap the yarn into a
you'll enjoy seeing your mitts grow. figure-eight around your fingers, and
then wrap the end around the middle
to secure. You should then be able
to pull the beginning length of yarn
See pattern on page 32 from the middle of the bobbin.

12 13
 by Lydia Gluck

These socks were inspired by the bold colour clashes, and geometric Size: to fit average woman's
shapes often seen in Mexican weaving.They are worked seamlessly foot – foot length is adjustable.
from the toe-up, using increases and short rows to create an upside Circumference 17cm / 7”, 23cm / 9”
down heel flap, using the Magic Loop technique (if you haven't tried from bottom of heel to top of cuff. To
size sock circumference up or down
this technique yet, do!). The cuff is not ribbed but is left to curl over
adjust needle size.
slightly making it a little unusual – be sure not to bind off too tightly!
Shown here in magenta and orange, socks are always a good way to Yarn: SuperKnits Bessie (75% BFL
wear colours you wouldn't normally be brave enough to sport. So go 25% nylon, 100g = 425m / 465 yd), 1
skein of each colour
on, be brave - lime green and blue? Orange and violet? How about
bright yellow and pink? Wear as you dare! Colours shown: 'Bo' (colour A) &
'Magic Moo's Magenta' (colour B)
Gauge: 38 sts and 50 rows = 10 cm / 4”
Needles: 2.25mm / US 1 long
circular needle (at least 80 cm / 32”
for magic loop)
Notions: Stitch marker to mark
beginning of round (if required),
washi tape or other way of marking
See pattern on page 34 your place when working the charts.

14 15
 Ce Persiano lives in the artistic sea-side township of
Brighton & Hove. Moments from the beach, Ce's world
can only be described as colourful - the landscape, the
Brighton people, and her work are exactly that. As an
independent yarn dyer working under the name The
Uncommon Thread, Ce's work has many parallels
with the place she lives. Brighton and Hove (although
technically two cities, you really can't name one without
mentioning the other) is known for its independent
spirit. It is a place where alternative culture, art, music,
food, and the sea all collide to produce an idiosyncratic,
unique, lovely place.
Ce's yarns are similarly remarkable. Her colours have
a depth and intensity that make the simplest stitch
patterns look extraordinary. Ce acknowledges that her
surroundings are a huge influence on her work. "Oh
yeah, this is a very vibrant part of the UK, I love living
here. One of my hands down favourite things is the Open
Houses that run during Brighton Festival in May and for
a couple of weeks before Christmas. I love going round
and checking out the work of all the amazing artists
in this area, and there are lots of them." Ce's studio
space reflects the diversity and creativity of her greater
surroundings: "I love the place where I work - my dyeing
studio is in a large building with lots of other crafters,
makers and artists, a great place to be."
Brighton and Hove also benefits from being surrounded
by sea on one side, and glorious countryside on all
others. Ce says that this landscape is inspiring as well:
"It makes for great walks that free up my mind to come
up with all sorts of ideas. I love the West Pier. And the
Downs. Oh and Seven Sisters. I feel so lucky to live here
and have so many beautiful spots around me!" If you're
familiar with Ce's yarns you probably already know
about her gorgeous shades of blue and grey with names
like Nimbostratus, Cumulonimbus, and After the Rain.
Although she says she never really thought too much
about it, she concedes that the British weather - and
more specifically its cloud formations - are an influence
on her work. Ce says shel'll often get "fixated" on a
colour and then will have to develop that exact shade.
Another aspect of Ce's work that intersects with the
Brighton scene is her focus on environmentalism. As
by Meghan Fernandes a self-described "eco-warrior", she's aligned with the
overarching perspective of her town - the first area in
the UK to elect the Green Party for the majority of their
councillors and one of the most eco-conscious places in
the country. "It has to be said that fibre crafts are hardly
the most eco-friendly of pursuits out there", Ce notes.
"A lot of chemicals are used, both in the production of
yarns as well as the dyeing process. Scouring (removing
dirt and lanolin from wool) and superwashing are not
Photo: Beth Kling
exactly green, are they?" In spite of this she does her
best to counteract these issues: "I try to give this some
thought always and be mindful of the impact I'm having.
This is where the 'British Breeds' bit comes in: some of
my yarns are sourced locally, from local sheep breeds,
17
and I even use a mill that is partly powered by water. I
try to incorporate my love for the environment in every
business decision I make." And it's true. The Uncommon
Thread's tags are produced from 100% post-consumer
waste, paper is re-used as much as possible, eco-
friendly cleaners are used in the studio, and mailing
bags are 100% biodegradable. As for the actual dyeing,
Ce says, "I aim to simmer the yarns for a long time so
that as much of the dye as possible can bond with the
fibres, rather than going down the drain."
Now if Brighton and Hove is known for anything, it must
be it's commitment to the word "independent". The city
teems with indie shops, restaurants, and other small
businesses, and is known for nurturing them. So it is
with The Uncommon Thread. Ce has been working on
collaborations with independent designers to create
some stunning patterns for her yarn. She believes that
it's important for knitting/fibre businesses to support
one another. "I love working with other people in this
way and love supporting and feeling supported by other
people in the industry. I think the knitting community is
so friendly, welcoming, and warm and it's great that we
can and do support each other." Most recently, Ce has
worked with American designer Beth Kling on a shawl
collaboration - Ce's Posh Fingering used for Beth's
Occitan design (pictured). "I love how international the
knitting community is. It's great to have worked with
Beth so closely, for instance, and she's all the way in the
US. In fact, other designers I'm working with are abroad
too [her next collaboration is with popular Canadian
designer Lisa Mutch] and we wouldn't have met and
gotten together had it not been for Ravelry." She knows
that she owes a lot of her success to the online knitting
website, as do so many others: "I think Ravelry has
made setting up independently a lot easier. I'd imagine
it would be a hard business to break into without the
strong online community we have developed."
Ce's colourful world - online and in Brighton and
Hove - continues to evolve and it is definitely growing.
She continues to be inspired by artists and makers
at her studio, collaborating designers, and her fellow
independent dyers (many of whom are her personal
friends). She feels lucky to be able call dyeing her full-
time job. "I couldn't be happier," she says. The knitting
community is pretty happy to have her gorgeous yarns
in their world too.
Find Ce on ravelry.com as theuncommonthread
 mocha cake

by Rebecca Litchfield

This rich dense cake is the perfect thing to serve slightly warm in Serves 8-10
sophisticated slices with an elegant dollop of creme fraiche. Ingredients:
Then again you could just eat it in large mouthfuls with a fork when
no-one's watching! The chilli gives the cake a lovely warmth, and the 175 g unsalted butter
espresso adds complexity. I find it needs little more than a dusting 175 g light muscovado sugar
of icing sugar and cocoa to dress it up, but if you prefer it could hold
3 eggs
its own covered in a buttercream or ganache.
100 g self-raising flour, sifted
Grease and line a 20 cm / 8" round tin and preheat the oven to
170C / 340F. 75 g cocoa powder, sifted
Melt the butter and espresso together in a small pan and set aside 100 g chilli chocolate, chopped fine
to cool. 50 ml very strong espresso
Whip the eggs and sugar together until thick and doubled in size. (I used stove top)
Pour in the cooled melted butter and coffee mix. Then gently fold in
the flour and cocoa, followed by the chopped chocolate.
Pour in the prepared pan and place in the middle shelf of the preheated
oven. Bake for 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted comes out
covered in a few moist crumbs. Careful not to over-bake; start checking
around 20 minutes. If in doubt under-bake, no-one minds a gooey
chocolate cake!
Keep up with our resident recipe-maven over at no98.co.uk

19
 You might not have heard of Anna Wilkinson yet
(apart from seeing her amazing Celaya fair isle
cardigan on page 4), but we think you should! In 2009
Anna won gold in the Knitted Textile Awards by the
UK Handknitting Association for her collection of
vintage-inspired knits and now she's got a rocking
new book out called Learn to Knit, Love to Knit.
Although the title makes the book sound like it might
be for complete beginners, there's loads of patterns
you'll want to knit whether you're just starting out
or have been knitting for years. As Anna told us,
"Although this book is aimed at beginners,
I personally believe that all the projects within it are
desirable and wearable and worth knitting no matter
your skill level. Each garment is something that I
have designed myself because it's something that I
would want to wear and use myself!"
Anna makes use of a lot of traditional techniques to
create modern pieces - she's become a pro at this
at her day job at a London print studio, where she
sources and designs fabric and knitwear samples
for major fashion houses. In her book, it becomes
apparent that Anna's specialty is colourwork.
"I find colour incredibly inspiring and I love playing
around with the balance of it, Anna says. "I am a
huge fan of fair isle knitting because you can create
such interesting colourways when using up odds and
ends of yarn and you can be pleasantly surprised by
how the colours work together." We are particularly
enamoured with Anna's modern-meets-traditional
Fair Isle Band Sweater (pictured left) and you can bet
we'll be making it before the year is out. >>>

Photos: Laura Edwards

21
 Patterns
Photo: Laura Edwards Celaya 25
We also love Anna's use of special fibres - her patterns Anna's book comes out this September - just in time for Abuelita 27
include yarns by Juno Fibre Arts, Quince & Co, Natural cosying up with a gorgeously styled book full of toasty
Dye Studio, and Madlinetosh - often in lighter weights. sweaters and accessories. Onda28
"I prefer to work in finer yarn, such as 4-ply, because Find Anna as annawilkinson on Ravelry, Contigo 31
I like the weight of the fabric it produces and that is @AnnaKnits on Twitter, and also Vivo 32
what I like to wear," says Anna. Her use of lightweight at annawilkinsonknitwear.com
yarns means you can use these special skeins more
Lupita 34
Pom Pom readers get a deal!
economically too, since they tend to go further than Buy Learn to Knit, Love to
thicker yarns. As you dive deeper into the patterns Knit at the special price of
in Learn to Knit, Love to Knit, Anna's enthusiasm for £10.99 (normally £14.99),
colour and texture in the book becomes infectious. She with free p&p. To order, call
says, "I have loved working on the projects in this book on 01256 302699 quoting
and I really hope that this comes across and that people reference 7ME and your credit
will pick up the book and find something within that they card details.
really want to own and therefore knit themselves." ISBN 9781849491617
23
 Abbreviations & Symbols Celaya

A lot of the patterns in this issue use yarns from the patterns. We think blocking is a really important Notes: Armhole shaping:
independent dyers, which aren't available everywhere. part of the knitting process; for the best finish, be sure The fair isle pattern is constructed with 2 charts. Cast off 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at the beg of the foll 2 RS rows.
If you want to substitute another yarn you're going to knit and block a test swatch to make sure you've The Chevron Chart features only at the trim 57 (61, 63, 63, 65) sts
to want to consider the thickness of the yarn, fibre got the right tension, and block your project once it's
throughout the garment. The Back then switches to Next RS Row: Dec 1 st at armhole edge.
content, and suggested needle size. We do of course finished. This usually means soaking the item and then
stocking st in one shade, while the Fronts and Sleeves Next WS Row: Work in pattern.
encourage you to use indie dyers local to you! laying it out to dry flat, using pins or blocking wires
There's also instruction about blocking for each of when necessary. continue with Celaya Chart
Rep the last 2 rows until 39 (43, 45, 45, 47) sts rem.
(Rows 11-20 match Rows 21-30).
Work 7 rows in pattern.
Abbreviations A
Next WS row: Cast off 8 sts at neck edge, work to end
beg: beginning m: marker of row.
B
CC: contrast colour MC: main colour Celaya Work 1 row.
ch: chain* M1L: make one left; pick up strand between the two C
20 (30)
Starting on foll row, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 16
dc: double crochet* needles from front to back with tip of left needle, k D times - 21 (25, 27, 27, 29) sts.
dec('d): decrease(d) into the back of this st
M1R: make on right; pick up strand between the two E Cast off 4 sts at shoulder edge every RS row 3 (4, 4, 4,
DPN: double pointed needle
needles from back to front with tip of left needle, k
15 (25) 4) times, and at the same time, dec 1 st at neck edge
foll: following Chevron every row 3 times.
into the front of this st
inc('d): increase(d)
p: purl Cast off rem 0 (0, 2, 2, 4) sts.
k: knit 11 (21)

pfb: purl into the front and back of the stitch 10 10

kfb: knit into the front and back of the stitch
pm: place marker
k2tog: knit 2 together
rep: repeat
ktbl: knit through the back loop
rem: remain(ing) 5 5

rnd(s): round(s)
RS: right side
1 1
sc: single crochet*
sk: skip Pattern
sl: slip Sleeves (make two):
Cast on 71 (75, 79, 83, 87) sts with Colour A.
*see US to UK crochet conversion chart Start working on Chevron Chart, working Rows 1-12
twice, then start working on Celaya Chart (note Rows
US-UK Crochet Terms 21-30 are the same as 11-20), and at the same time,
work one increase at each end every 8th row until
US UK
there are 95 (99, 103, 107, 111) sts.
chain (ch) chain (ch)
single crochet (sc) double crochet (dc) Shape sleeve cap:
double crochet (dc) treble crochet (tr) Cast off 4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts at the beg of foll 4 rows. 79 (83,
slip stitch (sl st) slip stitch (sl st) 87, 91, 95) sts
Dec 1 st at the beg of foll 38 rows. 41 (45, 49, 53, 57) sts
Cast off 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at the beg of foll 6 rows.
Cast off rem 11 (15, 19, 17, 21) sts.
Left Front:
Cast on 69 (73, 75, 77, 79) sts with Colour A.
www.tangled-yarn.co.uk Start working on Chevron Chart, working Rows 1-12
0161 494 2053 twice, then start working on Celaya Chart (note Rows
carefully sourced 21-30 are the same as 11-20) until piece measures
luxury knitting yarns 26 (27, 28, 29, 30) cm / 10 (10.5, 11, 11.5, 12)" from
cast on edge.

24 25
 Celaya
Right Front
Cast on 69 (73, 75, 77, 79) sts with Colour A.
Start working on Chevron Chart, working rows 1-12
twice, then start working on Celaya Chart (note Rows
21-30 are the same as 11-20) until piece measures 26
(27, 28, 29, 30) cm / 10 (10.5, 11, 11.5, 12)" from cast on
edge.
Armhole shaping:
Cast off 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at the beg of the foll 2 WS rows.
57 (61, 63, 63, 65) sts
Next WS row: Dec 1 st at armhole edge.
Next row: Work in pattern.
Rep the last 2 rows until 39 (43, 45, 45, 47) sts rem.
Work 7 more rows in pattern.
Next RS row: Cast off 8 sts at neck edge, work to end
of row.
Work 1 row.
Starting on foll row, dec 1 st at neck edge every row 16
times. 21 (25, 27, 27, 29) sts
Cast off 4 sts at shoulder edge every WS row 3 (4, 4, 4,
4) times, and at the same time, dec 1 st at neck edge
every row 3 times.
Cast off rem 0 (0, 2, 2, 4) sts.
Back
Cast on 139 (145, 149, 155, 159) sts in Colour A.
Start working on Chevron Chart, working rows 1-12
twice, then switch to Colour C (Clyde Blue) and work
in stocking stitch. Continue in this manner until piece
26
measures 26 (27, 28, 29, 30) cm / 10 (10.5, 11, 11.5, 12)"
from cast on edge.
Armhole shaping:
Cast off 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts at the beg of foll 4 rows. 115
(121, 125, 127, 131) sts
Next RS row: Dec 1 st at each end.
Next row: Work in pattern.
Rep the last 2 rows until 79 (85, 89, 91, 95) sts rem.
Work 18 rows.
Neck shaping:
K 14 (17, 19, 20, 22), cast off central 51 sts, knit to end.
Continuing in stocking st, work each side side of neck
separately as follows:
Dec 1 st at neck edge every 2nd row 6 (7, 7, 7, 7) times
then cast off 4 sts at shoulder edge twice.
Cast off rem 0 (2, 4, 5, 7) sts.
Re-join yarn to opposite side of neck and work to match.
Finishing:
Join side seams, sleeves, and shoulders using
mattress stitch.
Starting at the seam and with RS facing, using Colour
F (Fuchsia) and crochet hook, pick up stitches around
the edge of sleeve cuff and work 2 rounds of single
crochet. Fasten off. Rep for second sleeve.
Starting at Left Side seam, with RS facing, work 3
rounds of single crochet around the lower edge,
around front edge and neckline. Break yarn.
Weave in ends and wet block.
Abuelita
To check gauge, ch 33, 2 dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch 1, 3
dc in next ch, rep from * 6 times, turn.
Row 1: Ch 3, *3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, rep from * 6
times, ch 2, sl st in 3rd ch of turning ch, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in turning ch sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in ch 1 sp,
rep from * 5 times, ch 1, 3 dc in turning ch sp, turn.
Rep Rows 1 & 2 for a total of 14 rows.
Notes:
Though we are a UK-based publication, for this pattern we
have opted to use US crochet terminology as we think it's
a bit more straightforward. Please see the abbreviations
section for more information, where we have provided a
UK to US crochet terms conversion chart.
Construction: This top is worked from the neckline
down, with raglan increases. Once the upper body is
worked, the front and back of the piece are joined to second corner, 3 dc into both overlapped corner spaces
form one body piece, which is then worked downwards. at once, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, rep from * to third
Edgings are applied afterward. corner, ch 1, overlap fourth corner over third corner,
Pattern: 2 dc into both overlapped corner spaces at once, sl st in
third ch of turning ch to join. 184 (208, 224, 248, 280) sts
Chain 128 (152, 168, 184, 208). Being careful not to
twist, sl st in first ch to join in rnd. Body
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in 1st ch in rnd, Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ch 1 sp, *ch 1, 3
dc in next ch 1 sp, rep from * to end of rnd, ch 1, sl st in
*ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch, rep from * 9 (11, 12, 13,
third ch of turning ch.
15) times; ch 1 (first corner), 3 dc in same ch, *ch 1, sk
3 ch, 3 dc in next ch, rep from * 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) times; ch Rnd 2: Ch 3 *3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last
1 (second corner), 3 dc in same ch, *ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc ch 1 sp, 2 dc in last ch 1 sp, sl st in third ch of turning ch.
in next ch, rep from * 9 (11, 12, 13, 15) times; ch 1 (third Rep these 2 rnds until piece measures 23 cm / 9" from
corner), 3 dc in same ch, *ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc in next ch, armholes.
rep from * 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) times; ch 1, sk 3 ch, 3 dc in same Edging:
ch as first ch 3 at beginning of rnd, ch 1 (fourth corner),
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in 2nd st and every st around, while
sl st in third ch of turning ch. 144 (168, 184, 200, 224) sts.
increasing 2 (2, 4, 4, 2) sts evenly by working 2 sc into
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in corner sp below, one st, sl st with first ch 1. 186 (210, 228, 252, 282) sts.
*ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, rep from * to first corner,
Rnd 2: Ch 1, *sk 2 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc) in
ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in corner sp, *ch1, 3 dc in next ch 1
next sc, sk next 2 sc, sc, in next sc, rep from * to end,
sp, rep from * to second corner, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in
sl st with first dc. Break yarn and fasten off.
corner sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch 1 sp, rep from * to third
corner, ch1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in corner sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in Armhole edging:
next ch 1 sp, rep from * to fourth corner, ch 1, 3 dc in Row 1: Rejoining yarn at underarm, ch 1, sc in 2nd st
corner sp, ch 1, sl st in third ch of turning ch. and every st around, while increasing 2 (0, 4, 4, 4) sts
evenly by working 2 sc into one st, turn. 78 (84, 96,
Rep Rnd 2 11 (12, 13, 15, 17) more times. 336 (376, 408,
108, 120) sts.
456, 512) sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, sk 2 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc) in
Divide for body: Ch 3 *3 dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1, rep
next sc, k next 2 sc, sc, in next sc, rep from * to end.
from * to first corner, ch 1, fold work in half so that the
Break yarn and fasten off.
two long edges of the square are lined up with their
wrong sides facing: first corner should meet second Rep for second armhole.
corner, and third corner should meet fourth corner. Weave in ends and block, pinning points of edging
Now, with right sides facing, overlap first corner over if desired.
27
 Onda Onda
Technical notes: rep from * once, k to end. 4 sts inc'd
This garment is worked seamlessly from the top- Row 4: *P to 2 sts before m, pfb, p1, sm, p1, sm, pfb,
down using the contiguous sleeve method developed rep from * once, p to end. 4 sts inc'd.
by Susie Myers, SusieM on Ravelry (http://www. Rep Rows 3 & 4 until you have 11 (13,15,17,19) sts for
ravelry.com/people/SusieM). This technique allows
each front panel, ending on a RS row. Remove m.
you to create the look (and feel) of set-in sleeves,
without seaming! Sleeve Cap Positioning Row (WS): P 10 (13, 15, 17, 19),
pm, pfb, p2, pfb, pm, p until 14 (17, 19, 21, 23) sts rem,
The pattern is written so that you can tailor the back
pm, pfb, p2, pfb, p10 (13, 15, 17, 19). Sewn hem instructions:
width and sleeve depth to your own measurements,
I suggest you choose your back and sleeve sizes Sleeve Cap: 1. With sts still on needle cut working yarn about
separately if necessary (e.g. M for back, and S for There will now be 6 sts between each set of markers 7 inches longer than length of hem to be sewn,
sleeves), it may be a good idea to highlight the size you - these are now the top of the sleeve cap. You will be and thread onto darning needle
are working for each part before casting on, to avoid increasing ONLY between these markers. If you are 2. Fold hem into position, if you want to you can
any confusion. working a different size sleeve size to back width start use pins (preferably blunt) to secure hem whilst it
being worked.
NB: If you are using hand-dyed yarn in neutrals and following the instructions for your chosen sleeve size
3. You will now attach your hem to the line of purl
brights together, you may want to wash the bright now.
bumps above where the sts sit when the hem is
colours before use, to minimise any potential colour Row 1: *K to m, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before next m, kfb, folded as follows:
run disasters!
sm, rep from * once, k to end. You have now inc'd 2 sts 4. Thread yarn through purl bump corresponding
Pattern in each sleeve cap, 4 sts inc'd total. to stitch to be sewn
Using larger needles and MC CO 72 (75, 78, 81, 84) sts Row 2: *P to m, sm, pfb, p to 1 st before next m, pfb, 5. Next thread yarn through corresponding stitch
Set-up row (WS): P2, pm, p1, pm, p to last 3 sts, pm, sm, rep from * once, p to end. on needle, drop this stitch off needle and slide
p1, pm, p2. next stitch to needle tip to be sewn
Rep rows 1 & 2 until you have 30 (32, 34, 38, 44) sts
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all stitches have
Row 1 (RS): Kfb, k1, sm, k1, sm, kfb, k to 2 sts before between each set of markers. 160 (175, 190, 209, 232)
been sewn, weave in end.
next m, kfb, k1, sm, k1, sm, kfb, k1. 4 sts inc'd. sts. You will now continue to increase on RS rows only
as follows: Row 2: P all sts.
Row 2: P1, pfb, p1, sm, p1, sm, pfb, p to 2 sts before
Rep rows 1 & 2 until you have 62 (66, 70, 80, 92) sts Sleeves:
next m, pfb, p1, sm, p1, sm, pfb, p2. Row 1: *K to m, sm, kfb, to to 1 st before next m, kfb,
between each set of sleeve markers. 224 (243, 262, With larger needles place 61 (65, 69, 79, 91) held sts
Row 3: *K to 2 sts before m, kfb, k1, sm, k1, sm, kfb, sm, rep from * once, k to end.
293, 328) sts onto needle, using MC pick up and knit 7 (9, 11, 13,
Chart A Chart B
Split for sleeves: 13) sts at underarm, placing marker in the centre of
MC 13 M1 21 picked up sts. Join to work in the rnd.
K to m, remove m, k1, place next 61 (65, 69, 79, 91) sts
12
on waste yarn, remove m, CO 7 (9, 11, 13, 13) sts, knit Next rnd: K until 5 sts rem, ssk, k to end.
= CC1 11 M1 19
10 across back 80 (87, 94, 101, 108) sts to next m, remove Next rnd: K3, k2tog, k to end. 66 (72, 78, 90, 102) sts
= CC2 9 M1 17
m, k1, place next 61 (65, 69, 79, 91) sts onto waste yarn, Work in stocking st in the rnd (K all rnds) until piece
8
7 M1 15 CO 7 (9, 11, 13, 13) sts, knit to end. measures 30.5 (30.5, 28, 25.5, 21) cm / 12 (12, 11, 10,
6 Next row: P to end. 8)" from underarm.
M1 13
5 Begin decreases:
4 11 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts for each front, 94 (105, 116, 127,
3
M1 11
134) sts for back. Rnd 1: K1, k2tog, k until 3 sts rem, ssk, k1.
2
M1 9
Row 1: K all sts. Rnd 2 & 3: K all sts.
1
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Rep Rnds 1-3 until 56 (64, 64, 64, 72) sts rem.
M1 7 Row 2: P all sts.
Work 5 more rnds then begin Chart A in the rnd, rep
Rep 7 (8, 8, 8, 9) Rep rows 1 & 2 to work in stocking st over body until
per round
M1 5
7 (8, 8, 8, 9) times per rnd.
piece meaures 28 cm / 11” from underarm.
M1 3 Once Chart A is completed, switch to smaller needle
Now work hem as follows: and knit 5 rnds in CC2.
M1 1
22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Next row (RS): Using smaller needles, p all sts tbl. Next row: P all sts tbl.
Rep 15 times per row Next row: P2tog, k to last 2 sts, ssk. Knit 3 rnds. Sew hem to purl bumps on the WS, as
For right front, read chart R to L on RS rows, L to R on WS rows.
Cont in stocking st until hem measures 1.5cm / 0.5”, shown in diagram.
For left front, read chart L to R on RS rows, R to L on WS rows.
M1 is M1R for right front and M1L for left front. sew hem to purl bumps on WS, as shown in diagram. Rep for opposite sleeve.

28 29
 Onda Contigo

Pattern:
With Colour A, cast on 216 sts. Join to work in the
rnd, being careful not to twist sts. Place a marker to
indicate beg of rnd.
Next Rnd: *K2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rep this rnd for 2 cm / .75".
Join Colour B, and work Rows 1-12 of chart,
repeating the 8 st pattern a total of 27 times per row.
Break off Colour B.
Next, join Colour C and work Rows 13-24 of chart, as
before. Break off Colour C.
Next, join Colour D and work Rows 25-36 of chart, as
before. Break off Colour D.
Continuing with Colour A, knit all sts in the next rnd.
Next Rnd: *K2, p2, rep from * to end of rnd. Rep this
rnd for 2 cm / .75". Cast off in rib pattern.
Weave in ends and block.
Colour Key
36
35 A
34
33
=B
32
31
30 =C
29
28 =D
27
26
Right front Panel: up and knit 122 sts from neck down along left front 25
24
With MC and RS facing, use smaller needles to pick up (not including neck sts). Pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows. 23
and knit 122 sts from bottom up along right front (not Next row (WS): Switch to larger needles, ptbl to end. 22
21
including neck sts). Pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows.
Rows 1-21: Work from Colour Chart B (following 20
Next row (RS): Switch to larger needles, ptbl to end. instructions for LH panel) – you will be increasing on 19
18
Rows 1-21: Work from Colour Chart B (following RS rows at shoulder edge of the panel, and working 17
instructions for RH panel) – you will be increasing on scallop pattern at the same time. 16
RS rows at the shoulder end of the panel and working 15
Once Chart B is complete begin working hem: 14
scallop pattern at the same time.
13
Set-up row (WS): Ktbl across.
Once Chart 2 is complete begin working hem: 12

Set-up row (WS): Ktbl across. Row 1 (RS): Ssk, k to end. 11

10
Row 1 (RS): K until 2 sts rem, k2tog. Row 2 (WS): P across. 9
8
Row 2 (WS): P across. Rep these rows 10 times, or until hem measures 7

Rep these rows 10 times, or until hem measures desired length. 6

5
desired length. Sew hem to purl bumps on the WS, as instructed in 4
pattern notes. 3
Sew hem to purl bumps on the WS, as instructed in 2
pattern notes. Finishing: 1
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Left front Panel: Sew in ends with a blunt needle. Wet block gently and
With MC and RS facing, use smaller needles to pick dry flat... enjoy your new cardigan! Rep these sts 27 times per row

30 31
 Vivo
Pattern (make two)
Cuff:
Cast on 36 sts with MC with smaller (3.5 mm / US 5)
needles. Cut yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave
in later.
You will not yet join in the rnd on the first row, but
rather set up the colours to prepare for joining in the
rnd at the end of the second set-up row.
Set-up Row 1: Join in CC, k4, with MC (p2, k2) 3 times,
p2, join in new ball of CC k4, join in new ball of MC, (p2,
k2) 3 times, p2.
On the next row, you will begin working from the same
end of the sts as on Set-up Row 1. In other words, do
not turn your knitting, but instead work from the first
section of CC sts on the right hand side.
Set-up Row 2: Sl first 4 CC sts to RH needle, turn, pick
up CC, twisting the strand over tail left by MC, p these
4 CC sts, turn, sl 4 sts just worked back to RH needle,
sl 14 MC sts to RH needle, turn, (k2, p2) 3 times, k2,
turn, bring yarn to back, sl 14 sts just worked back to
RH needle, sl next 4 CC sts to RH needle, turn, pick up
CC, twisting the strand over tail left by MC, p these 4
CC sts, turn, sl 4 sts just worked back to RH needle,
sl 14 MC sts to RH needle, turn, now divide sts evenly
between needles, and pick up MC, twisting stand over
tail left by MC at the beginning of the row to join in the
rnd, (k2, p2) 3 times, k2, turn, bring yarn to back, sl 14
sts just worked back to RH needle.
[Please note that if you are working on DPNs you may
find it easiest to divide your stitches so that you have
the 1 block of colour on 4 separate needles, this will
eliminate the need to slip your stitches before purling
them on even rnds.]
From now on, on odd rnds you will always twist the
yarn you are picking up over the last yarn used, except
at the very beginning of the rnd, where there will be no
other strand to twist with.
Rnd 1: *With CC k4, with MC (p2, k2) 3 times, p2, rep
from * once more.
Rnd 2: *Sl first 4 CC sts to RH needle, turn, with CC
p these 4 sts, turn, sl 4 sts just worked back to RH
needle, sl 14 MC sts to RH needle, turn, with MC (k2,
p2) 3 times, k2, turn, bringing yarn to back, sl 14 sts
just worked back to RH needle, sl next 4 CC sts to RH
needle, turn, with CC p these 4 sts, turn, sl 4 sts just
worked back to RH needle, sl 14 MC sts to RH needle,
turn, pick up MC, twisting the strand over tail left by CC,
(k2, p2) 3 times, k2, turn, bringing yarn to back,
32
sl 14 sts just worked back to RH needle, turn.
Rep Rnds 1 & 2 until cuff measures 6 cm / 2.25" ending
with Rnd 2.
Increase Set Up Rnd: Switch to larger (4mm / US 6)
needles. *With CC k4, with MC k14, rep from *
once more.
Purling Rnd: *Sl the following CC sts to RH needle,
turn, with CC p these sts, turn, sl sts just worked back
to RH needle, sl 14 MC sts to RH needle, turn, with MC
p14, turn, bringing yarn to back, sl 14 sts just worked
back to RH needle, sl next 4 CC sts to RH needle, turn,
with CC p these 4 sts, turn, sl 4 sts just worked back to
RH needle, sl 14 MC sts to RH needle, turn, pick up MC,
twisting the strand over tail left by CC, p14, turn, sl 14
sts just worked back to RH needle, turn.
Inc Rnd: With CC k1, M1R, k to last CC st, M1L, k1, with
MC k14, with CC k4, with MC k14 – 2 sts increased.
Rep last 2 rnds 7 more times. 52 sts.
Rep Purling Rnd once more.
Divide for thumb: With CC k2, sl next 16 CC sts to scrap
yarn, k2, with MC k14, with CC k4, with MC k14. 36 sts
Mitt Body:
Rnd 1: Sl 4 CC sts to RH needle, turn, with CC p these
4 sts, turn, sl 4 sts just worked back to RH needle, sl
Vivo
following 14 MC sts to RH needle, turn, with MC p these
14 sts, turn, sl 14 sts just worked back to RH needle, sl
4 CC sts to RH needle, turn, with CC p these 4 sts, turn,
sl 4 sts just worked back to RH needle, sl following
14 MC sts to RH needle, turn, pick up MC, twisting
the strand over tail left by CC, p14, turn, sl MC sts just
worked back to RH needle.
Rnd 2: *With CC k4, with MC k14, rep from * once
more.
Rep last 2 rnds until mitt measures 18 cm / 7" from
cast on edge (or 7 cm / 2.75" less than desired length).
Rep Rnd 1 once more.
Decrease Mitt Top:
Rnd 1: *With CC k4, with MC k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts of
MC section, k2tog, k1, rep from * once more – 4 sts
decreased.
Rnd 2: Sl 4 CC sts to RH needle, turn, with CC purl
these 4 sts, turn, sl 4 sts just worked back to RH
needle, sl all following MC sts to RH needle, turn,
with MC p these sts, turn, sl MC sts just worked back
to RH needle, sl 4 CC sts to RH needle, turn, with CC
purl these 4 sts, turn, sl 4 sts just worked back to RH
needle, sl following MC sts to RH needle, turn,
pick up MC, twisting the strand over tail left by CC,
with MC purl these sts, turn, sl MC sts just worked
back to RH needle.
Rep last 2 rnds 4 more times - 16 sts rem.
33
Next Rnd: *With CC k4, with MC ssk, k2tog, rep from *
once more. 12 sts rem.
Rep Rnd 2 again.
Tip of Mitt:
Next Rnd: With CC k3, ssk, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2tog
(incorporating first st from beg of rnd). 8 sts rem.
At this point break off all strands of yarn except the
current working CC yarn and tuck them inside of mitt.
Next Rnd: K1, ssk, k2tog, ssk, k2tog (incorporating first
st from beg of rnd). 4 sts rem.
Cut yarn, and thread through remaining 4 sts, pulling
tightly to close, then draw through to inside of mitt.
Thumb:
Place 16 sts on scrap yarn back to larger (4 mm / US 6)
needles. Divide sts evenly between needles. Rejoining
CC, pick up and knit one st at base of thumb, k16, pick
up and k one st, pm to mark beg of rnd. 18 sts
Next Rnd: K2tog, k14, k2tog - 16 sts.
Knit 8 rnds
Decrease thumb: K2tog 8 times. 8 sts rem.
Next rnd: K2tog 4 times. 4 sts rem.
Break yarn and thread tail through rem 4 sts, pulling
tightly to close, then draw through to inside of mitt.
Weave in ends, closing up hole at base of thumb if
necessary, and block.
 Lupita Lupita
Pattern Foot:
Toe: Continuing with Colour A, knit two rnds.
Using colour A and 'Magic Cast On' and Magic Loop Work Rows 1 to 11 of Chart A, remembering to twist
technique, cast on 20 sts (10 per needle). Knit the next yarns in the back when one must be carried unused for
rnd, knitting through the back loops of the sts on the more than 6 sts. The chart is repeated a total of four
second needle (they will be twisted from the cast on). times for each round.
If you want you can place a marker to indicate start of Once Chart A is completed continue to work in stocking
round. st using Colour B until foot measures 9cm / 3.5" less
Rnd 1: Kfb, k to last st on first needle, kfb, on second than desired. (For example for a woman's UK size 6 -
needle, kfb, k to last st, kfb. work until piece measures 16cm / 6.25")
Rnd 2: K all sts Gusset:
Rep these 2 rnds until you have a total of 64 sts Rnd 1: K all sts on first needle, on second needle, k1,
(32 per needle) kfb, k to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Rnd 2: K all sts.
Colour Key
Rep Rnds 1 & 2 until you have a total of 58 sts on needle 2.
=A =B
Heel Turn:
Chart A
K all sts on first needle, then, working only on second
11
10
needle, work the following short row section:
9 Row 1: K44 w&t
8
7 Row 2: P30 w&t
6
5
Row 3: K29 w&t
4 Row 4: P28 w&t
3
2 Row 5: K27 w&t
1 up rem wraps and knitting them tog with their sts tbl), Cast off using lacy cast off as follows: K2, *transfer the
Row 6: P26 w&t
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ssk, turn. 2 worked sts back to left hand needle, k2tog tbl, k1* rep
Row 7: K25 w&t from * until all sts are cast off.
Chart B Row 1: Sl1, p30, p2tog, turn
12 Row 8: P24 w&t Weave in ends, wet block, and enjoy your colourful toes!
Row 2: Sl1, k30, ssk, turn
11
Row 9: K23 w&t
10 Rep Rows 1 & 2 ten times more, then rep Row 1 once
9 Row 10: P22 w&t more.
8
7 Row 11: K21w&t Next row: Sl1, k30, ssk. 33 sts on needle 2
6
5
Row 12: P20 w&t Next round: K across first needle, on second needle
4 Row 13: K19 w&t k2tog, knit to end. 64 sts total (32 on each needle)
3
2 Row 14: P18 w&t Continuing in Colour B, work in stocking st until leg
1
Row 15: K17 w&t measures 2.5 cm / 1”.
18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Row 16: P16 w&t Increase 8 sts total over next 1.25cm / .5” as follows:
Chart C
Row 17: K15 w&t Rnd 1: On first needle, k1, kfb, knit to end, rep for
12
second needle.
11
Row 18: P14 w&t
10 Rnd 2: On first needle, k until 2 sts rem, kfb, k1, rep for
9 You will now have 14 centre sts, with 9 wrapped sts
second needle.
8
either side, and 13 gusset sts either side of those. 58
7
sts (on second needle) Rnds 3-4: K all sts
6
5
K across to end of round, picking up wraps and knitting Repeat Rnds 1-4 once. 72 sts
4
3 them together with their sts as you go. Work Rows 1-12 of colour Chart B
2
Decrease Gusset: Work Rows 1-12 of colour Chart C
1
18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 K across first needle. On second needle, k 44 (picking Using Colour A, work in stocking st for 2.5 cm / 1”.

34 35
 Day of the
Dead
by Lydia Gluck
Mexico is an astounding country: it is not afraid of
colour, strong flavours or loud music, and it is certainly
not afraid of death. A case in point is one of its most
famous celebrations, The Day of the Dead (Día de los
Muertos). During the festival, which begins on the last
day of October, the dead are able to return to earth to
visit their loved ones; children and babies on the 1st of
November, adults on the 2nd. Families build colourful
altars on which they place pictures of dead relatives,
along with things they enjoyed during their life; alcohol,
cigarettes, favourite foods, musical instruments etc.
They also use marigolds, candles and sweets (often
shaped as skulls) as 'ofrendas'. Most families will visit
graves of dead loved ones to clean and decorate them,
and some Mexicans picnic at the grave, or even spend
all night beside it.
In Romerillo, a small community in Chiapas, Southern
Mexico, planks of wood are placed over graves to act
as doors, which are lifted when people want to speak
to their dead. I visited this small village during the
Day of the Dead festivities and found the graveyard
transformed into what can only be described to a Brit
as a funfair. There were rides, booths selling grilled
Photo: PomPom
chicken and sweets, music, drink, and families with
fold-up chairs ready to spend time with their dead.
Huge blue and green Mayan crosses stood at the top of
the hill, covered in yellow marigolds for the occasion.
That same night I went to Zinacantan, another
37
community in the Chiapan highlands. Residents there
were keeping an all-night vigil, and had set tables
complete with local foods, such as tamales, for their
returning family. A band of musicians dressed in richly
embroidered traditional clothes travelled from house
to house playing music at each family's altar. They wore
shoes made of several pieces of wood which they used
for percussion as they played, all the time drinking
a local spirit called pox (pronounced ‘posh’). These
small snippets of may go some way to explaining why
I can say, without question, that Day of the Dead is my
favourite festival. Not only for its colour and cheerfully
eerie aesthetic, but because of its fearless approach to
death, and celebration of the dead.
The image of the decorated skull (‘calavera’) is integral
to the iconography of the Mexican Day of the Dead; you
will find paintings and sculptures in its image, see it
in ‘papel picado’ (Mexican style bunting) and eat it in
sweet or bread form. Here we have it in embroidered
form. We've kept it simple, and you will only need to
use three stitches: back stitch, whipped back stitch and
French knot.
So if you want a little more Mexicana in your life, or just
like skulls and colours, our Muerto may be for you. Just
don’t forget to carry some marigolds for her once in a
while. Oh, and she likes sweets.
 Loop
You will need:
plain canvas or cotton tote bag (or any
other item you want to embroider onto),
embroidery thread in at least 6 colours,
embroidery hoop (approx 18cm / 7”),
embroidery needle, scissors, pencil (in a
light colour if marking on dark fabric)
Instructions:
1. First transfer design onto your fabric.
(Scan & enlarge the image if you would
like it bigger.) If you are using dark fabric
you will not be able to trace the design
through it. I suggest tracing onto tracing
paper, then tacking the design through
the tracing paper onto the fabric. Or if you GORGEOUS KNITTING SUPPLIES
are feeling brave (and I'm sure you are!)
you can copy the design freehand. You Exquisite yarns sourced from all over the world
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could just use the outline of the skull, and haberdashery patterns quirky
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decorate it as you wish! handmade & vintage gifts and accessories n

2. Using back stitch and white thread,

buttons workshops and gift vouchers Beautiful
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outline the skull, eye sockets, 'nose', and

teeth. online shop we ship all around the world!
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3. With whipped back stitch work all

lines as shown on diagram.
4. Work french knots for dots.
5. Sew in all ends neatly at the back.
6. Celebrate!

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