UNICORN HOOD – An Ode to Artax

The Neverending Story…..That movie had more effect on me than a movie should have on a kid, lol! I
was obsessed and basically wanted to be a unicorn ever since. I’m pretty sure the unicorn is my spirit
animal and this hood is an ode to Artax, the unicorn in the movie. I hope you love it as much as I do!

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Materials:

- Size G (4.25mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

- Size E (3.5mm) crochet hook

- (1) standard bobby pin

- (9) 6mm flat back rhinestones

- E6000 glue or a similar glue to affix rhinestones

- DK weight yarn in the following colors and quantities:

- Small amount of stuffing for the horn

(Take a moment to plan and create a key for your colors, matching a letter to each color as shown below
for the example) On the last page of the pattern there is a blank chart so you can create your own “key”!

Stylecraft Special DK is used in the sample and specific color information is listed after each in
parenthesis

Color A: White (600 yards) – (2) balls 1001 White

Color B: Hot Pink (200 yards) – (1) ball 1257 Fiesta

Color C: Hot Orange (200 yards) – (1) ball 1256 Jaffa

Color D: Yellow (200 yards) – (1) ball 1263 Citron

Color E: Hot Green (200 yards) – (1) ball 1259 Bright Green

Color F: Seafoam Green (200 yards) – (1) ball 1422 Aspen

Color G: Light Purple (200 yards) – (1) ball 1188 Lavender

Color H: Magenta (275 yards) – (1) ball 1084 Magenta

Color J: Light Silver Gray (100 yards)- (1) ball 1203 Silver

- 3” Clover pom pom maker (personal favorite, yet you may use another method to create the pom
pom)

- tapestry needle for weaving ends, scissors

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Yarn Substitution

DK weight yarn can be subbed with most yarns marked baby, sport, light, or size 3 with similar results.

If you see those words on the label, chances are it will work, but remember to DO GAUGE, this is a
wearable item and it does matter!

A good yarn sub that is readily available is CARON SIMPLY SOFT (marked worsted but is on the lighter
side and can be used in this hood with similar results). You will probably need to drop one hook size to
accommodate for slight increase in thickness) IF YOU SUB ANOTHER YARN, YOU MUST CHECK YOUR
GAUGE or YOUR HOOD WILL NOT FIT RIGHT!

Gauge: (CHECK ME! ESPECIALLY IF SUBBING DIFFERENT YARN!)

With G hook and in hdc: 16 sts x 12 rows = 4” x 4”

Finished Size:

Excluding the triangular flaps: about 15” tall x 13” wide at the widest point of the hood.

Sized For: One size fits most preteen to adult

Color Change Method: Perform your final yarn over and pull through with the NEW color needed on the
stitch indicated in the pattern so the next row will begin with that color on the hook.

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Instructions:

Hood Panel: (Make 2)

With G hook (used for all parts of the main hood, including edgings) and Color A, ch 2:

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook (skipped ch does not count as a st). (1)

Row 2: ch 1, (does **NOT COUNT AS AN HDC HERE AND THROUGHOUT**), turn, 2 hdc in hdc. (2)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in 1st hdc, hdc in nxt hdc. (3)

Row 4-5: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across. (3)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in nxt, hdc in last. (4)

Row 7: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across (4)

Row 8: ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in 1st hdc, hdc in nxt 2 hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc. (6)

Row 9: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across. (6)

Row 10: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, change to Color H at final hdc using color change method
described under special stitches above, tie off Color A. (6)

Row 11: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 5 hdc, 2 hdc in last hdc, changing to Color A at final hdc as you did before,
tie off Color H. (7)

Row 12: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in nxt 3, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in last changing to
Color G, tie off Color A. (9)

Row 13: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, changing to Color A at last hdc, tie off Color G. (9)

Row 14: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in nxt, hdc in nxt 5 hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in last hdc,
changing to Color F at final hdc made, tie off Color A. (11)

Row 15: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, changing to Color A at final hdc, tie off Color F. (11)

Row 16: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, changing to Color E at final hdc, tie off Color A. (11)

Row 17: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 5 hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in last 5 hdc, changing to Color A at final hdc,
tie off Color E. (12)

Row 18: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, changing to Color D at final hdc, tie off Color A. (12)

Row 19: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in nxt 8 hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in last hdc
changing to Color A at final hdc, tie off Color D. (14)

Row 20: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across changing to Color C at final hdc, tie off Color A. (14)
Row 21: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in nxt 10 hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in last hdc
changing to Color A, tie off Color C. (16)

Row 22: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, changing to Color B at final hdc, tie off Color A. (16)

Row 23: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in nxt 12 hdc, 2 hdc in nxt hdc, hdc in last hdc
changing to Color A at last hdc, tie off Color B. (18)

Row 24: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across. (18)

Row 25: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across, then chain 33 MORE. (18 hdc, plus 33 chains)

Row 26: turn, hdc in 2nd chain from hook (skipped chain does NOT count as an hdc) and next 31 chains,
then hdc in nxt 18 hdc. (50)

Row 27-34: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across. (50)

Row 35: ch 1, turn, hdc in 1st 48 hdc, 2 hdc in each of nxt 2 hdc. (52)

Row 36-42: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across. (52)

*Note: once a hdc decrease is made, it will be referred to as a hdc on subsequent rounds.

Row 43: ch 1, turn, hdc in next 50 hdc, hdcdec (half double crochet decrease) over last 2 hdc. (51)

Row 44: ch 1, turn, hdcdec over 1st 2 sts, hdc in last 49 hdc. (50)

Row 45: ch 1, turn, hdc in next 48 hdc, hdcdec over last 2 hdc. (49)

Row 46: ch 1, turn, hdcdec over 1st 2 hdc, hdc in last 47 hdc. (48)

Row 47-53: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across. (48)

Row 54: ch 1, turn, hdcdec over 1st 2 hdc, hdc last 46 hdc. (47)

Row 55: ch 1, turn, hdc in 45 hdc, hdcdec over last 2 hdc. (46)

Row 56: ch 1, turn, hdcdec over 1st 2 hdc, hdc in last 44 hdc (45)

Row 57-68: ch 1, turn, hdc in each hdc across. (45)

Row 69: ch 1, turn, hdc in nxt 43 hdc, hdcdec over last 2 hdc. (44)

Row 70: ch 1, turn, hdcdec over 1st 2 hdc, hdc in last 42 hdc. (43)

Row 71: ch 1, turn, hdc in nxt 41 hdc, hdcdec over last 2 sts, do not tie off, continue to edge below. (42)

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EDGE BACK CURVATURE:

With G hook, and Color A:

Row 1: 2 hdc around the post of the same hdc as last worked in row 71, now work 1 hdc around the
POST of the hdc at each row end down the back curvature of the hood. DO NOT confuse these with
standard back post/front stitches. This is working into the SIDE of the stitch into the post at the end of
the row. Tie off once you reach row 26 (where you chained off the work). Leave about a 36” tail on one
panel and use that to seam them as shown below.

SEAM BACK CURVATURE and Rows 71 to 71 TO FORM HOOD:

Lay the panels on top of each other matching curved back edge to curved back edge. Using the long tail
from the tie off and a tapestry needle, seam the back curvature of the hood panels together through the
hdc edge row just made, then continue across the top of the hood and seam row 71 of one panel to row
71 of the second panel to complete.

*Do not worry that the right side of one edge row and the wrong side of the other edge row are facing
out, this will be deeply hidden within the throws of the luxurious mane we will create later.

*Take a moment while the needle is out and weave all the ends on the assembly to this point.

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EDGE REMAINING OPENING:

With G hook, and Color A:

Position hood as shown in the below photo, and join yarn with a sl st in the seam created at position
shown where the hook is.

Rnd 1: (Broken down into steps so it is easier to follow)

Step 1: Ch 1, sc in seam, sc in each remaining loop of the bottom of the hood until the triangular flap is
reached

Step 2: Work 1 sc INTO the stitch at the end of each row (stick hook between the parts of the stitch as
opposed to encompassing it completely, I think this makes for a nicer looking edge). Occasionally, lay
your hood down and be sure you are not puckering the work (this would indicate too FEW edging
stitches). If this occurs, work 2 sc into the stitch post at the end of the row as needed to keep the work
flat and from buckling. When the point is reached, work 4 sc in the stitch at the apex of the triangular
flap

Step 3: Work in the same manner back down the triangular flap, around the face(frontal) opening of the
hood, and back up the next triangular flap until the next apex of the triangle is reached, work 4 sc into
the apex of the flap.

Step 4: As for the other flap, work back down the flap until the bottom of the hood edge is reached, sc
in each remaining loop across the edge until the beginning sc is reached, sl st to the 1st sc made, tie off.

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FINAL RIBBED EDGE – FACE OPENING

Position hood so the face opening is facing away from you, with the triangular flaps to the right. With G
hook and Color A join with a sl st to the row just above the pink topmost stripe on the flap.

Row 1: ch 1, (counts as sl st), sc in the next st, fphdc (half double crochet front post) around the next sc,
bphdc (half double crochet back post) around the next sc, continue alternating fphdc/bphdc around the
face opening until you are 2 sts before the next hot pink row, sc in the next st, sl st in the next st.

Row 2: ch 1, counts as sl st for 1st sc, sc in nxt st, fphdc in each fphdc and bphdc in each bphdc across
row, sc in the nxt sc, sl st in the last st, tie off.

EARS (Make 2):

NOTE: Use the bobby pin to mark the LAST stitch made of each round, as shown in the photo below.
This is important because this ear is designed to curve forward a bit and does not follow a standard
pattern of increasing. I catch just the outer most loop of the stitch so I don’t stretch the stitch of the
piece and leave any gaps. We want these ears worked TIGHTLY. MARK THE ROUNDS!

With E hook and Color A, make a magic circle: Be sure to mark rounds, even one stitch off will alter the
shape of the ear and it won’t stand up as nicely.

Do not join or turn rounds, worked in spiral. When stated to repeat: only repeat the instructions in the
parenthesis immediately preceding the repeat instructions (here and throughout the pattern this
applies)
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Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 sc in ring. (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around. (6)

Rnd 3: (sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice. (8)

Rnd 4: (sc in nxt 3 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) twice. (10)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around.

Rnd 6: (sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) five times total. (15)

Rnd 7: (sc in nxt 4 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) three times total. (18)

Rnd 8: sc in each sc around. (18)

Rnd 9: sc in nxt 8, 2sc in each of the nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 6, 2 sc in each of last 2 sts. (22)

Rnd 10: sc in 1st 6, 2 sc in each of the nxt 3, sc in nxt 10, 2 sc in each of the last 3 sc. (28)

Rnd 11: sc in each sc around. (28)

Rnd 12: sc in nxt 7, 2 sc in each of the nxt 4, sc in nxt 11, 2 sc in each of the nxt 4 sc, sc in the last 2. (36)

Rnd 13-17: sc in each sc around.

Rnd 18: sc in nxt 10, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) twice, sc in nxt 16 sc, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) twice, sc in the last
2 sc. (32)

Rnd 19: sc in nxt 9, sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 18, sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in last sc. (30)

Rnd 20: sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 5, sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in last 21 sc. (28)

Rnd 21: sc in each sc around, sl st to the nxt sc, tie off leaving an 18” tail to seam to hood. (28)

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CREATE INNER EAR FUR:

Cut 2 strand each of Colors B, C, and D that are 6” long about, for a total of 6 strands.

Flatten the ear, it should naturally flatten and cup gently due to the shaping employed. Position the ear
so the bottom opening is facing away from you and locate the 2 center most stitches of the front
(scooped in) side of the ear.

Insert into one of these stitches as follows: Insert hook from top towards bottom of ear through the
FRONT LOOP only of the sc on the last round made. Fold one strand of the Color D in half and lay the
looped end over the hook, pull through the stitch on the ear, grab the 2 free ends of the strand and pull
it though the loop to secure the fringe piece.

Repeat with Color D on the next center stitch. Repeat with Color C on either side of the Color D. Repeat
with Color B on either side of the Color C. Trim them so the center ones are just a tad longer than the
side ones and they measure about 1 ¼” tall. Using the needle, hold the base of the strands firmly so you
don’t stretch the ear too much, run it somewhat vigorously through the strands to separate the plies,
making the yarn get furry and fuzzy. I even use a hair brush on this to fuzz them up even more. Retrim if
needed. Repeat all the above for the second ear.

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STITCH EARS TO HOOD:

Using the photo as your placement guide, whip stitch the ears to the hood as directed. Pin in place and
stitch them in their curved shape. Adjust if necessary for your personal taste, but I found this to be the
best position for the average wearer.

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HEART POM POM: (PLEASE practice with scrap yarn once or twice, this takes a little finesse and I made
three before I was happy with my results)

Step 1: Using Color H: Wrap the yarn 300 (Really 300 times, that’s not a type error!) around each side of
the pom pom maker. You want to gently hold the yarn taught, and wrap evenly from one side to the
next. A lot of wraps creates a nice big full pom pom which will sculpt easier when we get there  You’ll
want to create the pom pom according to the package instructions, cutting between the arms of the
maker, and wrapping and knotting yarn (which I hold double strand for strength) a few times. REALLY
wrap and tie firmly. If you use another method to create the pom pom, just be sure it is EXTREMELY
FULL so the sculpting works and shows well.

Step 2: GO OUTSIDE OR BE RIGHT OVER YOUR GARBAGE CAN! This leaves fuzzies EVERYWHERE! I’m
not saying you need expensive scissors, but you DO need sharp ones. I literally just bought a new pair
from the dollar store and they worked just fine. You will want to begin by cutting the pom pom to be
more disk like and less round. Periodically while trimming, shake the pom pom around to bring up any
fibers that got bent over so the trimming is as even as possible.

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Step 3: With the flattened circular face, facing up: trim the end that is near your tie off strands into a “V”
shape. You want to again shake the pom pom periodically to bring up all the fibers evenly. Trim about ¼”
each time, you can always take off more, but you can’t add it back on. Try to visualize a 3D puffy heart
and “trim away” what is not part of that.

Step 4: Be careful you don’t go too deep and accidentally cut your yarn that is holding the pom pom
together. You will now want to cut a deep “V” channel in the pom pom exactly opposite the bottom
point to create the top humps of the heart. Again, shake and bring up the fibers, trimming a little each
time until you are satisfied with you heart! How cute is that?? Now, thread that tie yarn on a needle and
bring it up through the heart and stitch it to row 1 (the tip of each triangular flap on the hood) on one
side of the hood. Repeat all the above for the second heart pom pom.
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HORN

With Color J and E hook, make a magic circle: (Do not turn or join rounds, mark as before using the
bobby pin)

Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 sc in the ring. (6)

Rnd 2-3: sc in each sc around. (6)

*Pause and make sure the right side of the stitches is facing out, it tends to curl the wrong way when
working in the round. Flip it if needed.*

Rnd 4: (sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc) twice. (8)

Rnd 5: sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in nxt st, sc in last 3. (8)

Rnd 6: (sc nxt 3, 2 sc in nxt sc) twice. (10)

Rnd 7: sc in each sc around. (10)

Rnd 8: sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in each of nxt 3 sc, sc in last 3. (12)

Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around. (12)

Rnd 11: 2 sc in each of the nxt 3 sc, sc in the nxt, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) three times, sc in last 2 sc. (12)

Rnd 12: sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in each of the nxt 4 sc, sc in nxt 2 sc, sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc in last 2 sc. (15)

Rnd 13-15: sc in each sc around. (15)

Rnd 16: sc in nxt 5 sc, (sc dec over next 2 sc) three times, sc in nxt 2 sc, 2 sc in each of nxt 2 sc. (14)

Rnd 17: sc in nxt 5, 2 sc in each of the nxt 3 sc, sc in nxt 6 sc. (17)

Rnd 18: sc in nxt 3 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc, sc in nxt 5, 2 sc in each of nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 4, 2 sc in each of nxt 2 sc.
(22)

Rnd 19: sc in each sc around. (22)

Rnd 20: sc in nxt 5, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) five times, sc in nxt 4 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc, 3 sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in last
sc. (21)

Rnd 21: (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) twice, sc in nxt 11 sc, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) three times. (16)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around. (16)

Rnd 23: sc in nxt 4 sc, 3 sc in each of nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 4 sc, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) three times. (17)
Rnd 24: sc dec over nxt 3 sc (3 sc will be decreased to 1 sc), sc in nxt 3 sc, 2sc in each of nxt 3 sc, sc in
nxt 4 sc, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) twice. (16)

Rnd 25: sc in each st around. (16)

Rnd 26: 3 sc in the nxt sc, 2 sc in the nxt sc, sc in the nxt 4 sc, (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) three times, sc in nxt
2 sc, 2 sc in nxt sc, 3 sc in last sc. (19)

Rnd 27: 2 sc in each of nxt 2 sc, sc in nxt 7 sc, 2 sc in each of nxt 3 sc, sc dec over nxt 2 sc, sc nxt 3 sc, sc
dec over last 2 sc. (22)

Rnd 28: (sc dec over nxt 2 sc) twice, sc in last 18 sc. (20)

Rnd 29: sc in nxt 19 sc, 2 sc in last sc. (21)

Rnd 30: 2 sc in nxt sc, sc in nxt sc, 2 sc in nxt sc, sc in nxt 8 sc, 2 sc in each of nxt 2 sc, sc in last 8 sc. (25)

Rnd 31-32: sc in each sc around. (25)

Rnd 33: sc FRONT LOOP ONLY in each sc around, sl st to 1st scflo made, tie off leaving a long tail to seam
to hood. (25)

Stuff the horn with stuffing pretty firmly, but not so firmly that you distort it or stretch the stitches out
too much. I glued my rhinestones on now and did so on the front side only, following the curves created
by the shaping to enhance the spiral look. “Flip” round 33 so it creates a lip of sorts. Using the tail, stitch
the horn with round 33 spread out flat to create a base. Stitch it centered and about 3” from the front of
the hood, centered between the ears. The image below shows spacing I used. You will want to try it on
your own head to be sure, but I found this to be the most secure and properly balanced/weighted
placements so the hood stays on the head well when wearing.

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MANE: Mane Base: With Color A and G hook, ch 15:

Row 1: hdc in 2nd ch from hook (skipped ch does NOT count as a st) and nxt 13 chs. (14)

Row 2: ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc BACK LOOP ONLY in each st across. (14)

Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, hdc FRONT LOOP ONLY in each st across. (14)

Rows 4-28: Repeat rows 2-3 until you have 28 rows, the tie off.

Chain Fringe Mane: Note how the one side of the base has all the free loops that were unworked
facing and the other side is smooth. We want the work our fringe IN those free loops that we created.
Below is the row of the base and if you will work or skip each row. The order of colors across the 14 sts
in a row are: (2) Color B, (2) Color C, (2) Color D, (2) Color E, (2) Color F, (2) Color G, (2) Color H. This is
the same for each row. This way, from the front while wearing, all the colors are visible!

Work 1
Work 2
Work 3
Skip 4
Work 5
Skip 6
Work 7
Skip 8
Work 9
Skip 10
Work 11
Skip 12
Work 13
Skip 14
Work 15
Skip 16
Work 17
Skip 18
Work 19
Skip 20
Work 21
Skip 22
Work 23
Skip 24
Work 25
Skip 26
Work 27
Skip 28
 COPYRIGHT CROCHETVERSE/STEPHANIE POKORNY 2016 ©

Step 1: Cut (30) strands of each color that are about 2 yards long each. I measured for the 1st few just so
I could get a feel for it, then once I did, I eyeballed the rest. NO WAY was I measuring that many strands,
and you should not either. I cut these one at time, one color at a time just so I wasn’t messing with so
many strands at once, but if you’d like to precut all, go ahead.

Step 2: Insert hook in the front loop only of the first row from top to bottom. Fold one strand in half and
lay the looped end over the hook. Using both strands as once, chain 25. Pull the ends completely
through the last chain made and tug VERY tightly to secure it. Now trim the ends about ½” after the last
chain.

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 across the row, working 2 of each color across, in the order stated above and
shown in the below photo.

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Step 4: Repeat step 3, in the remaining free loops and rows according to the chart above.

Step 5: After the mane is complete, pin it to the hood to gauge the correct positioning. Rows 1-3 should
be on top nearest the horn so there is mane fullness at the crown. Be sure you do not smush the shape
of the hood as you pin it in place. I draped the hood over my knee and pinned the mane on to help.
(DON’T PIN YOURSELF! CAREFUL!) Note the placement of the mane: It sits just to the rear of the horn,
touching it and centered. It lays just past the pointed corner at the rear of the hood seam. Again, taking
care to not poke yourself, try it on and make sure it looks even to you. Then using a length of yarn the
main color of the hood, stitch the mane into place around all 4 edges, moving the hair out of the way as
you work.

NOTE!: If you do not stitch your mane almost completely ON TOP of the hood, it will likely fall
backwards because it is heavy! Really stitch it on the top and allow the curling fringe to fall and help the
appearance of longer. The pom poms also assist in balancing the hood forward.
 COPYRIGHT CROCHETVERSE/STEPHANIE POKORNY 2016 ©

FINISHING:

Weave in any remaining tails, cover yourself from head to toe in glitter, and start that new life you’ve
always dreamed of as a unicorn!

Stitch Key:

sl st slip stitch hdcflo half double crochet front loop only

ch chain dec decrease

sc single crochet hdcdec half double crochet decrease

hdc half double crochet

fphdc front post half double crochet

bphdc back post half double crochet

hdcblo half double crochet back loop only

Please be sure to ask questions if you need help and post your finished projects on my Facebook page,
“Crochetverse” ! Follow “Crochetverse” on Instagram, Twitter, Ravelry, YouTube, and Pinterest too!

Much Love and Yarn,

Stephanie

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productions are permitted. If you credit Crochetverse as the designer that is greatly appreciated!
 COLOR LETTER WRITE YOUR COLOR CHOICE HERE COLOR SHOWN IN PATTERN

A White

B Hot Pink (Fiesta)

C Hot Orange (Jaffa)

D Yellow (Citron)

E Hot Green (Bright Green)

F Seafoam Green (Aspen)

G Light Purple (Lavender)

H Magenta (Magenta)

J Silvery Gray (Silver)