Granny’s Valentine Bag

This bag uses 4 different type of Granny-style construction to create a small bag that recalls
vintage Valentine’s Day cards.
It is comprised of a Granny Mandala bottom based on the pattern on the Crochet with
Raymond Blog (http://crochethealingandraymond.wordpress.com/2010/11/11/revisiting-
the-granny-mandala/).
The handle is a modified version of the Granny Stripe Blanket from Lucy at the Attic 24
Blog (http://attic24.typepad.com/weblog/2010/05/granny-striping.html). One side of the
bag is a motif-centered granny square – Center Heart Square by Ginger Badger
(http://www.heartmadeblessings.org/Patterns/Centerheart.php), and the other is a classic
granny square. All of the pieces are joined with single-crochet seams on the outside of the
bag for a decorative, raised seam. By the time you are finished, you will be familiar with
each of these techniques.
Materials:
4 colors of Cascade Yarns Luna (82 yards each)
1 skein color 750 – Claret (a dark red/wine color)
1 skein color 709 – China Pink (a pale pink)
1 skein color 707 – Ruby (a rich, vibrant red)
1 skein color 752 – Pomegranate (a medium reddish pink)

Tools:
One size G (4.25 mm) hook
One yarn needle, for weaving in ends.

Gauge: Unimportant for this project – however, you do want your stitches SLIGHTLY
tighter than usual, so that the bag is not too floppy.

Note: If you choose to make 2 heart center squares for the sides, you will need an
additional skein of light pink in the recommended yarn.

American crochet terms are used.

All edits or editorial comments on patterns are made in RED.

Pattern:

For bottom, we will be following the pattern from Crochet with Raymond, Rows 1-6. You
will end up with a circle approximately 6 ¼” in diameter.

Round 1: Make a magic ring, and into this circle make 3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc, *ch1, 2dc*
repeat ** until you have 6 2dc’s separated by 1ch each, join with a sl st to 3rd chain of
original 3ch. Pull the end of the magic circle closed nice and tight and weave in those
ends, go on, weave as you go!

Round 2: Join next colour with a sl st into a 1ch space from previous round and
ch3 (counts as 1dc) 1dc, ch1, into the SAME space, dc2tog, *ch1, into the next space
dc2tog, ch1, dc2tog* repeat sequence until each 1ch space from the previous round has
2dc2tog each separated by 1ch.
(dc2tog: yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch, pull through a loop, yarn over, pull yarn
through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, insert hook into the SAME stitch, pull through a
loop, yarn over, pull loop through two loops on hook, yarn over again, pull loop through
remaining two (3) loops on hook.) (I think she is actually describing a dc cluster.)

Rounds 3 & 4: Join new colour with sl st into a 1ch space from previous round,
ch3 (counts as 1dc) into the same space, make 2dc, *ch1, 3dc into next space* repeat until
end of round and join with a sl st into 3rd ch of original 3ch. Each 1ch space should be
filled with 3dc each cluster separated with 1ch.
Round 5: Join new colour with a sl st into a 1ch space from previous round, ch3 (counts as
1dc) 2dc, 1ch, 3dc into same 1ch space, *ch1, into next space 3dc, ch1, 3dc* for entire
round, at end of the round ch1 and join with a sl st to 3rd chain of original 3ch.

Rounds 6&7: No increases in these rounds, just repeat rounds 3 & 4

Note: We are only going to do 6 rounds.

Side 1: Center Heart Square pattern by Ginger Badger to the end of Round 11, plus a
different row 12. Square will be approximately 9 ½” in size.

With red, ch 4, join with slip st to form a ring.

Rnd 1 (right side): Ch 1, 14 sc in ring: join with slip st to first sc.
Rnd 2: Ch 4, 2 tr in each of next 2 sc, 2 dc in each of next 2 sc, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sc,
ch 1, tr in next sc, ch 1, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sc, 2 dc in each of next 2 sc, 2 tr in each of
next 2 sc, ch 4, slip st in sc at base of beginning ch 4: 26 sts and 10 chs.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, working around first slip st, sc in same st as slip st, working in BLO, sc in
next 4 chs, sc in next 12 sts and in next ch, 3 sc in next tr, sc in next ch, sc in next 12 sts
and in next 4 chs; join with slip st to both loops of first sc: 38 sc.

Rnd 4: Working in both loops, slip st in next 2 sc, ch 1, sc in same st and in next 2 sc, 2 sc
in each of next 6 sc, sc in next 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in each of next 6 sc,
sc in next 3 sc, leave remaining sts unworked; join with slip st to first sc, finish off red. 49
sc.

Rnd 5: With right side facing join pink with a sc in same st as joining; * ch 3, skip next sc,
sc in next sc; repeat from * around; join with slip st to first sc: 25 sc and 24 ch 3 spaces.

Rnd 6: Slip st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in same space, (ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp) around, dc in
first sc to form last ch-3 sp.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, 3 sc in same sp, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp. (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in
next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next
ch-3 sp, 3 tr in next ch-3 sp, (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, 3 sc in
each of next 3 ch-3 sps, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, (2 tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in next ch-3 sp, 3 tr in next ch-
3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, 3 hdc in next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, (2
tr, ch 3, 2 tr) in next ch-3, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, 3 hdc in last ch-3 sp; join with slip st to first
sc.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, dc in next st and each st across to corner, 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in corner ch sp, dc
in each st across to next corner, 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc, in corner ch 3 sp, across to join with slip
st to top of beg ch-3: end off pink.

Rnd 9: Join red in any corner ch sp, ch 5, dc, skip next 2 dc, dc ch 2 dc in next st (v-st
made). Skip 2 dc, make a V-st, skip 2 dc V-st across to next corner, in corner sp make a dc,
ch-3, dc skip next 2 dc and V-st, continue around, join with a slip st to third ch of starting
ch 5, finish off red.

Rnd 10: Join medium pink in any ch 2 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 3 dc in each ch 2 sp
across to corner sp, in corner sp 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc continue around, join with slip st to
beginning ch 3, finish off medium pink.

Rnd 11: Join wine in center of a dc of row 10, ch 5, dc in same sp, sk next 2 dc and V-
stitch in center dc of last row to corner sp, in corner sp dc ch 3 dc then continue with the
V-st in center dc of previous row. You should have 9 v-stitches on each side and 4 corners
for a total of 40 V-stitches. Finish off wine.

Rnd 12: Join pink with a slip st in any dc, ch 2, *hdc in each ch space and each dc across,
in corner sp 2 hdc, ch 3, 2 hdc; rep from * around. Now before you cut off the yarn of this
last round, I suggest you measure now for your 9 ½”. If you’re over, then you can rip last
row out and use a sc or around so it comes out to 9 ½”. If it isn't at 9 ½” you can add a
row of sc around to make it 9 ½”. Finish off and weave in ends.

Note: I have one BIG tip for working on round 7. Please read this round one stitch at a
time, do not try to repeat as they do not repeat, this is the round that makes the square
shape take place and needs to be made as written one stitch at a time. Your square may
look really ruffled by the time you get to round 9, but when you have added 10, 11, and 12
it will have shaped up. Just smooth it out with your hand and it does go flat and square.

Side 2: Traditional Granny Square – approximately 9 ½” in size, 10 rounds.

Ch. 6, join with sl st to form a ring. (red yarn)

Round 1: Ch 3, 2dc in ring, ch2, (2dc in ring, ch 2) 3 times, join to top of starting chain
with a sl st. Cut yarn and secure end.
Round 2: (light pink) Join next color in any ch 2 sp, (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same space
(ch 1, in next ch-2 corner work 3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) 3 times, ch 1, join with a sl st to the top of
the first ch 3. Cut yarn and secure end.
Round 3: (med pink) Join next color in any ch-2 corner, (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same
corner, * ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, in corner work 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc; repeat from * twice
more. End ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, join to top of the starting ch with a sl st. Cut
yarn and secure end.
Round 4: (wine) Join next color in any ch-2 corner, (ch3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same corner,
*(ch 1, 3 dc in next h-1 sp) twice, ch 1, in corner work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc), repeat from * 3
times, end with (ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp) twice, ch 1, join to top of the starting ch with a
sl st. Cut yarn, secure end.
Rounds 5-10: Continue in pattern as established adding one more 3-dc group on each side
with each round.
(Round 5 is light pink, Round 6 – medium pink, Round 7 – red, Round 8 – wine, Round
9 – red, Round 10 – light pink)

Strap: Granny Stripe from Lucy of Attic 24 (modified to be 1-row stripes) – 24” long.
(Converted to American terms)

Work your first row in ch st, then switch to sc.

Ch 90 to begin.
Row 1 :: (wine)
Work 1sc in 2nd chain from hook. Continue working sc's into each chain till the end. You
should have worked 88 stitches in total. Turn the work.
Row 2 ::
Chain 3, then work 1dc into first stitch. *Skip 2 stitches, then work 3dc's (I call this a "dc
cluster") into next stitch*. Repeat between * until 3 sts remain, skip 2 stitches, then work
2dc's into last stitch on row.
You should have a row that begins and ends with 2dc's, and has dc clusters in between.
Turn. (Cut wine yarn and join in red)
Row 3 :: (red)
You'll be working out of the spaces between the dc clusters of the previous row.
Chain 3, then work 3dc's into 1st space between clusters of previous row. Work the rest of
the dc clusters into the spaces of the previous row. And then to finish the row, work 1 dc
into the top stitch of the ch3 made at start of previous row. Fasten off.
Row 4 :: (Join in medium pink)
To begin, insert hook through the very first space of the previous row (between the last dc
and the previous dc cluster). Draw the new yarn colour through to the front, ch 3, then 1
dc in same space.
Work dc clusters into the rest of the spaces, then work 2dc's into the final space. Turn.
Cut yarn and fasten off
Row 5 :: (wine)
Join yarn and work sc in all sts across. Cut yarn and secure end.
Assembly:
Weave in all ends of each piece. You will have pieces that look like this:

Take the 2 sides, placing the back of the 2 sides together. You may want to clip or pin the
pieces together so that they don’t shift as you stitch them. You will see two sets of crochet
loops next to each other. In the construction of the bag, we will only be using the part of
each loop that is closest to the other – the back loop in the piece closest to you, and the
front loop of the piece behind it. With a slipknot of the wine yarn on your hook, put the
hook, in the two corner loops at the bottom of the sides. Sc the whole side to the next
(top) corner. You may have to occasionally skip a stitch on the heart motif side – it will not
show. Cut yarn, secure end. Weave ends in.

Do the same to the other side of the squares.

Now you will attach the bottom in the same way. Open the bottom side of the tube you
have just made. Clip or pin the sides to the bottom. Starting 1” from any side seam, sc
around. When you come to a seam stitch, sc into the side of it. When you come to the
beginning sc, sl st into it to join. Cut yarn, secure end, and weave ends in.

Now for the strap: Clip or pin the strap ends centered above the side seams. Starting 1”
away from the strap edge, sc around the top of the bag, catching both loops of the side
pieces and the side of the stitches on the strap. You will be stitching more than once into
the turning chains of the strap – that is fine! End by using s sl st to join with the beginning
sc. Cut yarn, secure end, and weave in ends.

You may choose to finish the bag by lining it with fabric. I would recommend that you use
a lightweight cotton fabric – say, a quilting fabric. I would not recommend lining the
strap. Cut fabric pieces 1” larger than crochet pieces in all dimensions, and using a ½”
seam, sew them together. Trim or pink seams. Fold the top of the fabric down by ½” and
hand sew to the inside of the top of the bag. If you choose, you can use two layers of
fabric, and hide the seams between them, sewing them together at the top before hand-
sewing them to the bag.

Your bag is finished!

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