Crow Widower

FIBERFIGMENTS.
COM
Amigurumi Crochet Patterns
CROW WIDOWER
Amigurumi Doll – Crochet Pattern
© 2024 Sabrina Maria Pagh / Fiber Figments. All rights reserved. This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY.
The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed, or resold, translated, published, altered, shared, or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline.
INFRINGEMENT WILL BE REPORTED UNDER THE DIGITAL MILLENNIUM COPYRIGHT ACT - SECTION 512(c)
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TABLE OF CONTENT
FOREWORD 3
MATERIALS LIST 4
GLOSSARY OF TERMS 5
DOLL 6-17
BODY 6-9
ARMS & OPTION #2 HANDS 10
OPTION #1 HANDS 11-12
ATTACHING THE ARMS 13
HEAD & BEAK 14
SOFTSCULPTING THE HEAD 15-17
ATTIRE 18-38
VEST 18-21
PANTS 22-26
COAT 27-36
SCARF 36-37
TOP HAT 37-38
DRESS THE DOLL 38-39

OUTTRO 40
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© 2024 - Developed by Sabrina Maria Pagh // Fiber Figments

The Crow Widower is an excellent all year decoration piece for peculiar souls. Aesthetically pleasing gothic
doll in late 18th century inspired attire. The pattern includes instructions for the doll, pants, vest, scarf and
hat, claw hands plus alternative for crocheted hands.
Using the recommended material for the original version, the doll measures approximately 11” (28 cm)
from top of the head to the heels, and 3.2“ (8 cm) wide across the shoulders. The hat measures 1.2” (3.75
cm) and will add to his height // 12.5” (31.75 cm)
This pattern is in US terminology and is recommended for advanced skill level.

This pattern has been thoroughly tested by 10 people.
DO NOT HESITATE TO REACH OUT IF YOU NEED ANY HELP

You can also join the Fiber Figments Community on facebook for questions, pattern help, community
support and to share your work in progress as well as your finished figments.
Get updates regarding future patterns on facebook / Instagram @fiberfigments

Webshop, FAQ and more visit: www.fiberfigments.com
Direct contact: info@fiberfigments.com
WARNING! The finished item is intended as a decoration piece for older children and adults.
The wireframe, long limbs, other details and small accessories,
could pose various hazards to young children.
SHARE THE LOVE

#myfiberfigment
@fiberfigments
The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed, or resold, translated, published, altered,
shared, or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline. You can sell self-produced handmade items
made from this pattern, in a limited amount provided you give clearly stated credit to the designer, and
copyright holder Sabrina Maria Pagh / Fiber Figments.
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MATERIALS LIST:
THIS PATTERN CALLS FOR THREE YARN WEIGHTS, REFFERED TO AS A, B, C THROUGHOUT THE PATTERN.
You can use any yarn weights you like, just make sure you get the right gauge for the attire.
Approximate (rounded) sizes of the doll from the top of the head to the tip of the toe // Hook sizes (metric)
MICRO A/C Lace weight – 1.00 mm hook // B sewing thread. - 0.6 mm hook = 8” (20 cm)
*ORIGINAL A/C Fingering (8/4) – 2.00 mm hook // B lace weight - 1.50 mm hook = 11” (28 cm)
UP-SIZED A/C Worsted weight – 4.00 mm hook // B sock weight – 2.50 mm hook = 16” (45 cm)
SUPER SIZED A/C Bulky yarn – 6.00 mm hook // B/DK. – 4.50 mm hook = 25” (65 cm)
*ORIGINAL // WHAT I HAVE USED

A yarn: Fingering (8/4): 50 g (1.75 oz) = 170 m (186 yds)
Hobbii Rainbow 8/4, black (009) and Anthracite grey (010)
B yarn: Lace weight: 50 g (1.75 oz) = 280 m (308 yds)

Hobbii Rainbow Lace, black (009)
C yarn: Fingering 50 g (1.75 oz) = 130 m (142 yds)

Scheepjes Catona Stonewashed, Boulder Opal (804)
YARN // APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS

A YARN:
Black, hat: 6 g / 0.20 oz
Black, feet: 6 g / 0.20 oz
Grey, body/tights: 35 g / 1.25 oz
B YARN:
Black, Coat: 35 g / 1.25 oz
Black, Vest: 6 g / 0.20 oz
Black, Scarf: 4 g / 0.15 oz
Black, Pants: 21 g / 0.75 oz
C YARN:
Boulder opal: Head and chest: 21 g / 0.75 oz
TOOLS & OTHER MATERIALS

Buttons: 2 for eyes, 12 mm. 3 for attire 5 mm.
Beads: 4 as buttons for vest, 3 mm.
Wire, gauge 18 (1.02mm) for the arms to make them poseable.
Strong pliers. Scissors. Needle. Fiber filling. Paper tape.
For claw hands: Wire, paper tape, black acrylic paint a glass of water. Two paint brushes, one small and one soft.
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GLOSSARY OF TERMS:
YO Yarn over (or under) Wrap the yarn from back to front over the hook.
YU Yarn under (or over) Wrap the yarn from back to front under the hook.
MR Magic ring Adjustable loop to start working in rounds.
CH Chain YO, pull through remaining loop.
Bubble 5 DC bubble (5 DC Bobble)
YO, insert into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through 2 loops,
(YO, insert into same stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through 2 loops) x 4
YO, pull through all remaining loops
SL.ST. Slip stitch Insert hook into next stitch,
YO, pull up and pull through remaining loop.
SC Single crochet Insert hook into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through remaining two loops.
HDC Half double crochet YO, insert hook into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through all three loops.
DC Double crochet YO, insert hook into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through two loops.
TRC Treble crochet YO twice, insert hook into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
DEC Decrease One stitch combining stitches. (in SC unless otherwise stated)
INC Increase Two stitches in one stitch. (in SC unless otherwise stated)
FLO Front loop only Insert hook under the portion of the “v” that is closest to you.
BLO Back loop only Insert hook under the portion of the “v” that is furthest from you.
RND Round When working in rounds do not turn.
A plus sign between stitches means they are worked into the
+ same stitch.
All stitches within brackets are repeated the number of times of the value
following the x. Example:
() (SC 1, INC 1) x 2 = SC 1, INC 1, SC 1, INC 1
Any number combined with a – in the beginning of a stitch. Example:
Increases and decreases 3-DC-DEC 1, = 3 DCs combining one stitch.
(scallops) 3-DC-INC 1, = 3 DCs in the same stitch.
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13. DEC 1 in foot and heel, SC 7 in heel, DEC 1 in heel and foot, SC 3 in foot. 12
14. SC 4, DEC 1, SC 6 11
15. SC 3, DEC 1, SC 6 OPTIONAL: Change into charcoal grey yarn in the last stitch. 10
16. BLO: SC 3, DEC 1, SC 5 9
17. SC 1, (INC 1, SC 3) x 2 11
18-19. SC 11 (2 RNDS) 11
20. (SC 3, INC 1) x 2, SC 3 13
21-23. SC 13 (3 RNDS) 13
24. SC 3, INC 1, SC 4, INC 1, SC 4 15
25. SC 15 15
26. SC 6, (INC 1, SC 2) x 3 18
27-36. SC 18 (10 RNDS) 18
37. SC 1, INC 4  knee, SC 3, DEC 4, SC 2 18
38. SC 18 18
ADD WIRE AND FIBER FILLING: Be careful NOT to overstuff the doll.
Measurement is for fingering yarn. If you used another yarn weight, adjust the length
accordingly. Prepare 2 pieces of wire approximately 13” (32.5 cm) Bend one end of
the wire 1” (2.5 cm) down and press very snug with pliers. Insert the bent end of the
wire into each leg all the way to the toe tip. Fill up the leg from the heel. Do not add
any filling to the foot.
39. DEC 1, SC 4, DEC 1, SC 3, INC 1, SC 2, INC 1, SC 3 18

40. SC 18 18
41. SC 2, 3-SC-DEC 2  above the knee, SC 2, (SC 1, INC 1) x 4 18
42-45. SC 18 (4 RNDS) 18
46. SC 9, (INC 1, SC 3) x 2, INC 1 21
47. SC 21 21
48. (SC 6, INC 1) x 3 24
49-57. SC 24 (9 RNDS) 24
58. (DEC 1, SC 10) x 2 22
59-60. SC 22 (2 RNDS) 22
61. RIGHT LEG: SC 14, INC 6, SC 2, Finish off, Mark the last stitch. 28
61. LEFT LEG: SC 12, INC 6, SC 4, Do NOT finish off. 28
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HANDS, OPTION #1
MAKE 2 AND PUT ASIDE
STEP 1
Cut 8 pieces of wire 3” (7,5 cm), and 2 pieces of wire 12” (30 cm)
Cut a piece of paper tape, 1,5” (4 cm) Position 4 of the short wires parallel next to each other.
STEP 2
Wrap tape very tight around the bottom of the wires. Fan out the fingers and prepare slim slips of tape (3 pr. hand)
Attach one piece of tape between each of the gaps between fingers.
STEP 3
Prepare 24 slips of paper tape (12 for each hand) 0,40” wide (1 cm) and 0,80” long (2 cm)
Wrap 9 of them around the palm of the hand, to add volume to the palm.
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ATTACHING THE ARMS

Cut two pieces of wire. OPTION #1 HANDS: 6 ½” (16.25 cm) OPTION #2 HANDS: 7 ½ ” (18.75 cm)
Measurement is for fingering yarn. If you used another yarn weight, adjust the length accordingly.
Bend one end of each piece of wire, about 1” down. (2.5cm) Press very snug with pliers, wrap the bent ends in paper
tape. Insert the other end of the wire into the side of the body between RND 30-31. Exit through the neck. Repeat on
the other side with 18 stitches between at the chest.
Slide on each arm. For option #2 remember to adjust the arms so the bubble stitch (thumb) is turning in towards the
body, press top of arm flat and sew in place. I recommend sewing in FLO.
NOTE: DO NOT ATTACH OPTION #1 HANDS UNTIL AFTER YOU’VE DRESSED THE DOLL.
DUE TO THE WIRE FINGERS EASILY GET CAUGHT IN THE STITCHES OF THE ATTIRE IN THE PROCESS.
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ATTACHING THE HEAD AND SOFT SCULPTING THE EYE SOCKETS

Prepare the wires sticking out of the neck by cutting them to the length of 1” (2,5 cm) and wrap the bottom of them
together with paper tape. If you pulled your magic ring a bit too tight you can loosen it with a chopstick or other tool,
like a pencil. Insert the now gathered neck wires into the magic ring of the head (first row) Wiggle the head all the way
down to the neck and sew in place. Once again, I recommend sewing in front loops only (of the neck)
Locate the middle of the heads front, count 7 SC at each side between row 9 and 10. Mark with a needle or pin on
each side. This marks the 14 SC between the stitches we are going to make. All following stitches are worked in the
spaces between SCs. Thread body color yarn on needle, and secure by making a double knot. Insert the needle
anywhere between SCs in the back of the head. Exit the needle at the side of the head between row 9 and 10 (pin
placement) Pull and make sure the knot is secured inside the head. Insert the needle between row 10 and 11, directly
above. Exit the needle on the other side of the head between row 9 and 10 (pin placement) Then insert the needle
between row 10 and 11 directly above and pull in shape. Repeat a few times until the sculpting feels secured. Head
needs to be a bit squishy. Edit sculpting by inserting the tip of a needle and wiggle the filling back to the surface.
SEWING ON THE EYES & EYELIDS:

12 mm buttons are for fingering yarn. If you used another yarn weight, adjust the size accordingly.
Sew on the black buttons by using black sewing thread. This step is quite straight forward. Just make sure the buttons
are secured, and snug in the eye sockets. We don’t want them to budge one bit.
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Place the original chain of the eyelids around the buttons, starting and ending at the inner corner. Move around and
play with the placement for different expressions. Once you are happy with the placement, secure with needles and
sew in place through the remaining unworked loops of the original chain. Weave in ends, inside the head.
ORIGINAL CHAIN
ATTACHING THE BEAK

The center top of the beak is where you marked with a gold pin, in round 12. Start by pinching the top of the beak flat,
approximately 8 SCs (4 on each side) Place top of the beak at row 13 between the eyes on the head,
and secure both top and flattened sides with needles. Push the lower part of the beak a bit upwards, to flatten the
bottom and make prominent curves on the side, where the nostrils will go.
The beak should cover RND 7-13 (6 RNDS) Feel free to adjust however you like. Secure with needles and sew in place
using the long yarn end you finished off with. I recommend sewing in the beak’s FLO.
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SOFTSCULPTING:
This part is optional, and only to make the curves and features more prominent.
NOTE: You will need a long yarn end for this part. 20” (50 cm)
Using single thread of body color yarn on needle, and secure by making a double knot at the end. Insert the needle
anywhere between stitches at the back of the head. Exit through the head, by the lower bottom of the beak
(pink dot on picture below) make two rows of minimum two stitches in the bottom of the beak.
Starting at the inner part 3 stitches apart, going closer together as you reach the tip. Add upwards pressure from
below with a finger or other tool as you pull the stitches tight. Insert the needle in the middle of the bottom beak,
exit between eyes just above top of the beak. Do not cut yarn yet.
Refer to smaller pictures above.

Continue from above the beak and insert needle at the top in the middle of the head, going across 7 RNDS.
Exit in the back of the head, 5 stitches from the eyelid, between round 8 and 9. Pull gently and shape the top of the
head. Insert the needle directly above, between row 9 and 10, exiting where we started above the beak. Pull gently to
make a dent in the back side of the head. Repeat all steps for the other side. Meaning that you will shape the
top one more time and make a second dent at the other side of the heads back.
NOTE: If you pull a bit too much at one point, you can correct the sculpting by inserting the needle and wiggle the
fiber filling back towards the surface.
NOSTRILS:
Using black yarn in your chosen yarn weight, sew on nostrils through both
layers of the beak. Working in the dents on each side, make 3 long stitches in
the shape of a slim triangle, going across 4 rounds.
Be sure to weave in ends thoroughly.
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21. SC 30 evenly across by skipping all the SCs of the scallops. 30

22. (CH 2, skip 1 stitch, SC 1) x 15, CH 2 turn. (15 CH-2 loops) 45
Skip all SCs, work through CH-2 loops only:
SC 1 in the last CH-2 loop made in the previous row.
(5-DC-INC 1, SC 1, CH 2 + SC 1) x 4, 5-DC-INC 1, SC 1 in the turning chain, CH 1, turn.
23. (5 scallops with 1 CH-2 in between) 43
SC 1 in the last SC made in the previous row,
(CH 2, skip 1 SC + first DC, SC 1 in each of the middle 3 DCs, CH 2, skip last DC + 1 SC,
24. SC 1 in CH-2 loop) x 5, CH 2, turn. (5 pairs of 3 SCs with 2 CH-2 loops in between) 41
SC 1 in the last SC made in the previous row, CH 2, SC 1 in the next CH-2 loop,
(CH 2, skip the first SC, SC 1 in the middle SC, CH 2, skip last SC, SC 1 in the next CH-2
loop, CH 2, SC 1 in the next CH-2 loop) x 4, CH 2, skip the first SC, SC 1 in the middle
25. SC, CH 2, skip last SC, SC 1 in the turning CH-2, CH 1, turn. (15 CH-2 loops) 45
26. SC 30 across, by working one SC in the CH-2 loops and one SC in the SCs, CH 1, turn. 30
27-30. Repeat rows 22-25 one more time. (4 ROWS)
ROWS
1-21 22-31 32-40
31. SC 24 evenly across, skipping first SC, then all SCs of the scallops and the last SC. 24
32. (CH 2, skip 1 stitch, SC 1) x 12 CH 2 turn. (12 CH-2 loops) 36
33. (6 scallops with 1 CH-2 in between) (4 scallops with 1 CH-2 in between) 34
SC 1 in the last SC made in the previous row,
34. SC 1 in CH-2 loop) x 4, CH 2 turn. (4 pairs of 3 SCs with 2 CH-2 loops in between) 32
36. SC 24 across, by working one SC in the CH-2 loops and one SC in the SCs, CH 1, turn. 24
41. SC 20 evenly across by skipping all the SCs of the scallops, CH 1, turn. 20
42. BLO: SC 20, CH 1, turn. 20
43. FLO: SC 20, CH 1, turn. 20
44. BLO: SC 20, Finish off with an extra-long end for sewing. 20
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WORK IN ROWS
5. (CH 2, skip 1 stitch, SC 1) x 36 (36 CH-2 loops), CH 2, turn. 108
6. (12 scallops with 1 CH-2 in between) 106
7. SC 1 in CH-2 loop) x 12, CH 1, turn. (12 pairs of 3 SCs with 2 CH-2 loops in between) 96
9. SC 72 across, by working one SC in the CH-2 loops and one SC in the SCs, CH 1, turn 72
10. BLO: SC 72, CH 1, turn. 72
11. FLO: SC 72, CH 1, turn. 72
12. BLO: SC 72, CH 1, turn. 72
WORK 1-4 IN RNDS WORK IN ROWS WHEN RESUMING SCALLOPS
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PANTS FINISHING
Pockets and buttonhole PANTS FRONT PANTS BACK
Make the waist border and pockets

by folding the pants as shown in the
drawn illustration below.
Crochet through all 3 layers were the

pockets go.
Then you will be working in sides of

stitches to previous rows at the front
opening. Finally make the buttonhole
loop and finish off the work.
SC 4, SC 6 through 3 layers, SC 28 across the back, SC 6 through 3 layers, SC 4. CH 1,

18. and go down the side, working in sides of stitches to previous rows. SC 17 CH 1, turn. 48
SL.ST. 15, CH 6, skip 1 stitch, SL.ST. 1, 16 +
19. Finish off, weave in end and sew on a 5 mm button on the other side. 1 loop
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12. (SC 4, DEC 1) x 6 30

13-18. SC 30 (6 RNDS) 30
19. FLO: (SC 2, INC 1) x 10 40
20. SC 40 40
21. BORDER: Reverse SC 40 (crab stitch) join with a SL.ST. in the first stitch made.
Finish off, weave in end. 40
DRESS THE DOLL
PANTS VEST COAT
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SCARF
FOLD AROUND NECK BRING BACK TO THE FRONT TUG IN ENDS UNDER THE COAT
TIE THE FLUFF AROUND THE NECK, MAKE A BOW AT THE BACK AND TUG IT IN UNDER THE COAT
GLUE ON OPTION #1 HANDS

USE GLUE IN THE WRIST HOLE INSERT HAND SECURE WITH YARN END
Page 39 of 40
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#myfiberfigment
@fiberfigments
THANK YOU SO MUCH

FOR CROCHETING WITH ME
Please join the Fiber Figments Community on facebook for questions, pattern help, community support
and to share your work in progress as well as your finished figments.
Get updates regarding future patterns on facebook / Instagram @fiberfigments
Webshop, FAQ and more visit: www.fiberfigments.com
Direct contact: info@fiberfigments.com
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FIBERFIGMENTS.

DRESS THE DOLL 38-39

© 2024 - Developed by Sabrina Maria Pagh // Fiber Figments

This pattern is in US terminology and is recommended for advanced skill level.

DO NOT HESITATE TO REACH OUT IF YOU NEED ANY HELP

Get updates regarding future patterns on facebook / Instagram @fiberfigments

SHARE THE LOVE

*ORIGINAL // WHAT I HAVE USED

B yarn: Lace weight: 50 g (1.75 oz) = 280 m (308 yds)

C yarn: Fingering 50 g (1.75 oz) = 130 m (142 yds)

YARN // APPROXIMATE AMOUNTS

TOOLS & OTHER MATERIALS

39. DEC 1, SC 4, DEC 1, SC 3, INC 1, SC 2, INC 1, SC 3 18

ATTACHING THE ARMS

ATTACHING THE HEAD AND SOFT SCULPTING THE EYE SOCKETS

SEWING ON THE EYES & EYELIDS:

ATTACHING THE BEAK

Refer to smaller pictures above.

21. SC 30 evenly across by skipping all the SCs of the scallops. 30

WORK 1-4 IN RNDS WORK IN ROWS WHEN RESUMING SCALLOPS

Make the waist border and pockets

Crochet through all 3 layers were the

Then you will be working in sides of

SC 4, SC 6 through 3 layers, SC 28 across the back, SC 6 through 3 layers, SC 4. CH 1,

12. (SC 4, DEC 1) x 6 30

DRESS THE DOLL

PANTS VEST COAT

GLUE ON OPTION #1 HANDS

SHARE THE LOVE

THANK YOU SO MUCH

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