Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834

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Journal of South American Earth Sciences

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litorâneo taxa
Longshore sediment transport rate in Formosa Bay, Rio de Janeiro State -
Southeast Brazil
Daniel Fernandes a, b, *, João Wagner Alencar Castro a, b
a
Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ), Instituto de Geociências, Departamento de Geologia, Programa de Pós-graduação em Geologia, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
b
Laboratório de Geologia Costeira, Sedimentologia e Meio Ambiente (LAGECOST), Museu Nacional, Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T
abordagem envolvendo dados induzidos gestão
Keywords: An approach involving data on wave-induced sediment transport estimates is essential for managing coastal
praias de promontórios poderoso ferramentas
Headlands-bay-beaches environments. Numerical models are powerful tools to understand and investigate many processes responsible
Nearshore sediment transport perto da costa maneira sistemática
for longshore sediment transport (LST) in a systematic way, since direct measurement of LST is a difficult task.
tarefa
Numerical modeling artigo através de
This paper presents estimates of longshore sediment transport through numerical modeling of wave-induced
Brazilian coastline litoral padrões de dispersão
sediment dispersion patterns in the Formosa Bay, State of Rio de Janeiro - Southeast Brazil. The analysis was
conducted using the computational package Coastal Modeling System/SMC-Brazil and mathematical formula­
descarga sólida residual média
tions proposed by Cerc (1984). The results suggest average residual solid discharge (Qsravg) in the order of
131,442.745 m3/yr in northern sector, − 151,908.32 m3/yr in central sector, and 71,987.69 m3/yr in southern
além disso destacar na incidência de ondas
sector of investigated area. In addition, it is important to highlight that minor variations in the wave incidence
angle may cause changes in the longshore sediment drift, promoting the convergence and divergence zones
podem causar alterações na deriva sedimentar litorânea
em toda avanço do conhecimento
throughout the investigated area. The results presented contribute to the advancement of knowledge on the topic
endereçado/abordado útil em futuros projectos de engenharia relacionados com a alimentação de praias
addressed here and will be useful in future engineering projects related to beach nourishment and the man­
gestão sujeitas
agement of coastal areas subject to erosion processes.

células de deriva litorânea (longshore drift cell)

1. Introduction Refratar - desviar-se de sua primitiva direção.

entrada
Waves are the primary source of energy input in the shoreface (An­
a medida que as ondas se aproximam
thony and Aagaard, 2020). As waves approach the surf zone, under
àguas rasas refratam
shallow water conditions, they refract because of the seafloor
calinhar
morphology (USACE, 2002a). Refraction is responsible for aligning the
wave breaking zone, forming a resultant vector between the wave crest
crista da onda
fundo
and the bottom (Dean and Darlymple, 2004). This hydrodynamic system
célula de deriva litorânea
is known as longshore drift cell, which is the main agents responsible for
the sediment transport along shoreline (Wang et al., 1998; Suguio, 2003;
costa
(Basaran and GünerArı., 2021). século
investigadores
Since the middle of the last century, a large number of researchers in
the fields of coastal and marine geology, oceanography, and coastal
costeira
em
engineering have developed physical and numerical models about the
engenharia desenvolveram
longitudinal transport of sediment induced by waves (Inman and Bag­
nold, 1963; Longuet-Higgins and Stewart, 1964; Komar and Inman,
1970; Bilard and Inman, 1981; Kamphuis, 1991; Bayram et al., 2001;
Haas and Hanes, 2004; Camus et al., 2013). Estimates of sediment
transport rates are obtained through direct measurements of sediment
transport, through empirical formulations based on hydrodynamic and

Toldo et al., 2006; Kuriyama et al., 2008; Castro et al., 2011; Fernandes
and Castro, 2020).
The sediment transport is proportional to the longshore component
of wave energy flow, measured at the breaking point (Komar and Inman,
1970; Bayram et al., 2007). According to USACE (2002a), along many
beach profiles, wave attack from different quadrants leads to daily or
seasonal reversal of the direction of longshore sediment transport (LST).
Understanding the effects of wave height and direction is crucial for
calculating sediment transport rate and shoreline modifications
sedimentological data, and are also inferred through annual morpho­
anual
linha costeira
logical changes of the shoreline (Esteves et al., 2009).
In Brazil, the unavailability of continuous time series data on waves
indisponibilidade de dados de séries temporais contínuas sobre
correntes de deriva litorânea torna um desafio
and longshore drift currents makes it challenging to analyze the mor­
phodynamic aspects of beaches (Almeida et al., 2015). In this context,
the Brazilian government acquired the Coastal Modeling System - SMC
(IH-CANTÁBRIA, 2013) through the project “Transfer of methodologies
and tools to support the management of the Brazilian coast”. This system
gestão
banco de dados
provides a database called Downscaled Ocean Waves - DOW, referring to

* Corresponding author. Universidade Federal do Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ), Instituto de Geociências, Departamento de Geologia, Programa de Pós-graduação em
Geologia, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
E-mail addresses: fernandes.geol@gmail.com (D. Fernandes), castro@mn.ufrj.br (J.W. Alencar Castro).

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jsames.2024.104834
Received 19 September 2023; Received in revised form 27 December 2023; Accepted 10 February 2024
Available online 15 February 2024
0895-9811/© 2024 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro
a time series from 1948 to 2008, obtained through the SWAN model
desenvolvido
developed by Delft University of Technology, using the atmospheric
usando a reanálise atmosférica
reanalysis of the National Centers for Environmental Prediction/Na­
tional Center for Atmospheric Research -NCEP/NCAR (IH-CANTÁBRIA,
2017).
In the Formosa Bay, Rio de Janeiro State, as well as in other
headland-bay-beaches, rocky outcrops and headlands have a major in­
fluence in hydrodynamics, sediment transport and morphological
change (Short and Masselink, 1999). This morphology act as physical
barriers to the LST, restricting the longshore drift currents and sediment
is confined along the cove (Castro, 2018). Despite net shoreline erosion
and accretion at either end of embayed beaches, it is often considered
that there are no net changes in the overall embayment sediment
budget, as embayed beaches are generally assumed to be closed sedi­
ment cells (Short and Masselink, 1999; Klein et al., 2010; Harley et al.,
2011).
In the context of the study area, continuous coastal erosion records
have been identified in the last three decades (Fernandes and Castro,
Fig. 1. Map with location of the study area in the context of the Fluminense Lakes Region – Rio de Janeiro. The red polygon represents the region between Rio das
Ostras Headland and Cape Búzios. The black dots represent DOW points (Downscaling Ocean Waves) and red dots represent sample location.
2
Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834
2020). Castro et al. (2011) carried out five morphological profiles on
Tartarugas beach, northern sector of Formosa Bay, identifying a coast­
line retreat rate of 5.0 m/yr, between January 2009 and 2010. Muehe
et al., (2011), utilizing the Equilibrium Beach Profile concept (Dean,
1977) and photointerpretation, indicate a morphosedimentary imbal­
ance in the northern sector of Formosa Bay, characterized by a retreat of
approximately 0.3 m/year between 1970 and 2000. Gouvea Junior et al.
(2022), using the DSAS tool (Digital Shoreline Analysis System) as a
plug-in to the ArcGIS software to determination of erosion and accretion
rates, and satellite images from different dates, identified a beach line
retreat rates around 0.3–1.5 m/year, 1975 and 2003, and 0.5–2.0
m/year between 2005 and 2020. The information obtained from
SMC-Brazil and the mathematical formulations (CERC, 1984) are the
main parameters to be analyzed in this study, involving an inlet envi­
ronment subject to coastal erosion processes.
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro
2. Study area
The investigated area is located at Formosa Bay, in the Rio de Janeiro
State, southeastern Brazil. It is characterized by a pronounced crescent-
shaped beach arc, bordered to the north by the Rio das Ostras headland
and to the south by the Armação dos Búzios headland. The shoreline
extends for approximately 40 km in a predominantly north-south di­
rection (Fig. 1).
Erosion processes have been occurring in this coastal region for
approximately three decades. The beach retreat is more pronounced in
the central and northern sectors (Fernandes and Castro, 2020). Coastal
erosion has caused the destruction of part of the urban infrastructure
and private properties in the city of Rio das Ostras (Castro et al., 2011).
The government has carried out engineering interventions with the aim
of mitigating the environmental impacts in this coastal area.
The shoreline is intersected by two river mouths. In the central
sector, there is the São João River. It’s an important source of water
supply for the cities in the northeast of Rio de Janeiro state, which drains
an area of 3650 m2. In the 1980s, the Juturnaiba dam was built to
regulate downstream flows. According to the Rio de Janeiro’s Water
Resources Plan report, average long-term flows were estimated at 40
m3/s with maximums of 340 m3/s (INEA – Environmental Institute of
Rio de Janeiro state, 2014). In the southern sector is the Una River. The
surrounding coastal plain consists of marshes, beach ridges and coastal
dunes (Castro et al., 2018; Cabral and Castro, 2022). It is responsible for
communicating and draining the coastal marsh systems formed after the
last optimum climatic, when the relative sea level reached 3.0 m above
current levels between 4590 and 5100 cal yrs BP (Castro et al., 2021).
The sediments deposition on the inner continental shelf is characterized
by fine sand and mud up to 20 m depth (Albuquerque et al., 2016), while
on the outer shelf, carbonate sediments composed of nodular calcareous
algae occur (Alves and Ponzi, 1984; Carvalho and Rizzo, 1994).
From a morphodynamic perspective, the beaches in the southern
sector exhibit a dissipative stage, as proposed by Wright and Short
(1984). The surf zone is wide with a low topographic gradient. The
sediments are predominantly fine to medium size (Muehe et al., 2011).
The surf zone has a high sediment supply with parallel bar features
(Fernandes and Castro, 2020). In the opposite extreme, the northern
sector, the beaches present an intermediate to reflective morphody­
namic stage with a predominance of medium to coarse sands. The
resulting is megacusps and strong rip currents (Muehe et al., 2011).
The local climate is characterized as semi-arid with low rainfall
levels, ranging from 750 to 855 mm/yr and high evaporation rates (da
Silveira et al., 2021). The atmospheric circulation is influenced by the
SASA system (South Atlantic Subtropical Anticyclone) which generates
northeast winds for most of the year and frontal systems during the
winter months (Reboita et al., 2019). During autumn and winter, frontal
systems and extratropical cyclones prevail, generating winds and swells
from the southeast, south, and southwest, which are responsible for
storm formations during harsh weather conditions (Pinho, 2003; Savi,
2007; Silva, 2009; Pianca et al., 2010; Castro et al., 2011; Bulhoes et al.,
2013; Parente et al., 2014; Castro, 2018).
The wave climate is predominantly from the northeast quadrant, and
secondarily from the southeast and southwest. The occurrence of waves
from the South Atlantic Subtropical High is associated with polar cold
fronts from the east-southeast (Castro, 2018). According to the Brazilian
Navy, there is a frequent occurrence of wave trains from the northeast
and south-southeast with wave heights (H0) ranging from 0.5 to 6.0 m
and periods (T) from 2.0 to 17.0 s in deep waters. The region experiences
a micro-tidal regime, with high tide reaching 1.3 m and low tide ranging
between 0.06 and 0.025 m, considering a tidal reduction of 0.67 m as
provided by the Brazilian Navy (Castro et al., 2021).
3. Material and method
The methodology consisted of acquiring and processing
3
Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834
sedimentological data and compiling secondary data to define the
boundary conditions for estimating LST using the (https://smcbrasil.
ufsc.br/).
3.1. Coastal Modeling System/SMC - Brazil
The Coastal Modeling System of Brazil/SMC-Brazil is a computa­
tional tool that combines working methodologies, nautical chart data­
bases, and numerical models to perform coastal zone morphological
modifications studies (Quetzalcoatl et al., 2019). The SMC-Brazil can be
divided into two main programs: SMC 3.0 and SMC tools.
• SMC Tools allows access to the databases (IH-DATA module), that
includes a nautical chart of the Brazilian shoreline, wave historical
series data from 1948 to 2008 and sea level data, including astro­
nomical and meteorological tides. Wave data can be characterized
through a statistical analysis of their environmental variables, from
the IH-AMEVA module.
• The SMC 3.0 combines a series of numerical models that allow the
analysis of beach stability. It simulates wave propagation from deep
water to the shoreline, considering the effects of refraction, diffrac­
tion, and dissipation due to breaking or shoaling. It also calculates
the currents induced in the surf zone, simulating the morphodynamic
evolution, enabling the characterization of circulation and the cur­
rent field for sediment transport calculations.
Used in this study, MOPLA module is made up of the OLUCA models
(parabolic wave propagation model), the COPLA model (model of beach
currents induced by wave breaking), and the EROS model (erosion-ac­
cretion model and evolution of beach bathymetry) (GIOC, 2003).
The OLUCA model, which included the spectral and monochromatic
model of wave propagation, based on REF/DIF 5 (Kirby and Dalrymple,
1994), solves the parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation
considering shallowing, refraction, and diffraction which includes
Battjes and Janssen (1978), Thornton and Guza (1983) and Rattanapi­
tikon and Shibayama (1998) dissipation models (Quetzalcoatl et al.,
2019).
The COPLA module is a two-dimensional model of longshore drift
currents, deduced from the Navier-Stokes equations. It utilizes the
concept of radiation stress described by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart
(1964). When waves break, an excess flow of momentum called radia­
tion stress is generated. The areas of maximum intensity of longshore
drift currents are associated with the highest wave dissipation gradients.
3.2. Granulometric parameters
The samples used are part of the Sedimentology collection of Coastal
Geology, Sedimentology and Environment Laboratory - National
Museum/UFRJ. They were obtained through campaigns carried out in
February 2020, for the development of the project Relative Sea Level
Variations and Paleoenvironmental Reconstruction During the Holocene on
the Coastal Plain of Rio de Janeiro, Southeast Brazil, supported by the
National Council for Scientific and Technological Development (CNPq)
and the Carlos Chagas Filho Foundation for Research Support of Rio de
Janeiro State - FAPERJ.
Seven samples were selected to determine the median grain diameter
(D50), sorting (σ), skewness (Sk), and kurtosis according to Friedman
(1962b). Each sampling point was associated with a cross-shore profile
of the beach (Fig. 1). The sampling process distribution considered the
conditions of vulnerability to coastal erosion and proximity to river
mouth (Gouvea Junior et al., 2022).
3.3. Wave climate and propagation mesh
The wave climate data was modeled in deep water using Wave Watch
III, version 2.2 (Tolman, 1989). Propagation techniques were applied to
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834

the shoreline using the Simulating Waves Nearshore model (Booij et al.,
1999). Global waves were transferred to intermediate depth zones,
referred to as Downscaling Ocean Waves - DOW (Camus et al., 2013).
This module forms the database of SMC-Brazil between the years 1948
and 2008 (Matos et al., 2020). A preliminary validation was performed
using satellite data and buoys along the Brazilian coast. A detailed
description of GOW and DOW methodologies, calibration, and valida­
tion processes can be found in the SMC-Brazil: Waves - Thematic
document (IH-CANTÁBRIA, 2013a).
The analysis of the DOW points enabled the definition of the wave
climate in the study area. Considering the extensive area and respective
shoreline positions in relation to the preferred wave directions, three
sectors were delimited, North, Central and South, with wave propaga­
tion meshes of 100 × 100 m. In the construction of the meshes by SMC
3.0, the main wave directions were considered according to the selection
of 12 points between 10 and 20 m depth.
In the northern and southern sectors, were constructed two wave
propagation meshes from the E − ESE and E − ENE quadrants, respec­
tively. In the Central sector, three meshes were created for the east-
northeast, east and east-southeast quadrants. Subsequently, through
the Pre-processing module, the most representative cases of sea states
propagating towards the shoreline were generated using the statistical
technique of maximum inequality - MaxDiss (Snarey et al., 1997). The
values of the wave parameters and the probability of extreme wave
values (GEV) were calculated using equation (1), according to Fisher
and Tippett (1928).
[ ( )1 ]
f (x) = exp − 1 −
ξ(x − μ ξ
(1)
ψ In the Southern sector, fine sediments are observed, moderately to well
where: μ is the location parameter, Ψ represents the scale parameter,
and ξ is the shape parameter.
3.4. Longshore sediment transport
The LST data were obtained through seven cross-shore profiles along
the shoreline, according to the 8.0 m isobath, which corresponds to the
average depth of closure proposed by Hallermeier (1981). The calcula­
tion of sediment transport considered the values obtained for D50 for
each cross-shore profile, the sediment specific weight of 2650 kg/m3 and
the sediment porosity (η) of 0.4.
The estimation LST was performed using the SMC-Brazil H-DY­
NAMICS module considering the CERC formulation for the annual
average of the historical wave time series (1948–2008). The formula is
expressed as a method based on energy flow, relating the sediment
transport rate of the immersed weight (I) to the wave energy flow per
unit length of the shoreline (eq (2)).
breaking with respect to the shoreline orientation, hb is the breaking
depth of the wave, and γb is the breaking index in the breaking zone (Hb/
hb). The equation can be rewritten as equation (6).
( 3)
I=k
pg2 5
Hb2 sen2αb = (ρs − ρw)gnQs (6)
1
16γ2
where: ρs is the density of the transported material (2.65 g/cm3), ρw is
the density of water (1023 kg/m3), n represents the ratio of solid volume
to total volume, estimated at 0.35 (Dean, 2000) and Qs longshore
sediment transport, according to equation (7).
1 5
kρwg2 Hb2 sen2αb
Qs = 1 (7)
16(ρs − ρw) (1 − p)γ2
The CERC formulation does not introduce a term related to sediment
grain size (USACE, 2002b). However, Del Valle et al. (1993) propose an
exponential dependence of the coefficient K on the D50 according to
equation (8).
K = 1, 4e(2,5D50 ) (8)
4. Results
4.1. Granulometric analysis of sediments
The grain size patterns of the investigated area are included in
Table 1. The Northern and Central sectors are predominantly composed
of coarse sands, moderately well sorted, with a more positive skewness.
sorted, with a more negative skewness.
4.2. Wave climate and propagation mesh
The results obtained with the IH-AMEVA module suggest different
wave directions for meshes built in each sector of the cove. In the
Northern sector between Tartarugas and Abricó beaches, in Rio das
Ostras town, waves directions of east-southeast (ESE) and southeast (SE)
represent 88% and 11%, respectively (Fig. 2). The average wave height
(Hs50%) is 1.18 m from ESE direction and 1.26 m from SE direction,
with average peak period (Tp50%) of 7s in both cases. In case of extreme
storm conditions from the SE direction, significant wave height (Hs12)
reaches 3.0 m and a peak period - Tp12 of 15.5 s (Table 2).
In the Central sector, between the mouths of the São João and Una
rivers, 87% of the waves originate from the east (E), and 13% are from
ESE direction. Under regular conditions, the Hs50% is 1.15 m associated
with Tp50% of 7.2 s. At extreme storm conditions from ESE, the Hs12

I = KP (2)
Table 1
Results of the granulometric parameters involving geographic coordinates in
where: K is a dimensionless empirical coefficient of proportionality, and
WGS 84/UTM 24S, D50, sorting degree (σ), skewness (Sk), and kurtosis of the
P is the power induced by the waves in the surf zone (Komar, 1988). The samples.
power is the vector product of the energy density by the group celerity
Sample Coordinates D50 SK Kurtosis
(eq (3)).
σ
(Phi)
P = ECg senϴ cos ϴ (3) Tartaruga beach 22◦ 31′ 41◦ 57′ 0.981 0.774 0.169 3.292
54″ 26″
where: the group celerity (Cg) and the energy density (E) are defined by Abricó beach 22◦ 33′ 41◦ 58′ 0.791 0.748 0.573 4.196
linear wave theory (4) and (5) respectively. 10″ 30″
São João river 22◦ 36′ 41◦ 59′ 1.454 0.859 0.056 3.628
1 ( ) 10″ 45″
E= ρwHb2 (4) Verão Vermelho 22◦ 39′ 41◦ 59′ 3.372 0.841 − 0.264 6.841
8
beach 32″ 52″
( )12 Una river 22◦ 42′ 41◦ 59′ 3.370 0.386 − 1.714 17.993
gH 46″ 09″
(5)
1
Cg = (ghb )2 ∼
γb Gorda beach 22◦ 43′ 41◦ 58′ 0.611 1.430 − 1.216 2.432
55″ 15″
where: ρw is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, Hb Rasa beach 22◦ 45′ 41◦ 56′ 3.338 0.391 − 2.747 22.225
50″ 09″
is the wave height in the breaking zone, ϴ is the angle of wave fronts at

4
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834

Fig. 2. Sectors of the investigated area with the directional rose Hs, calculated by the Ameva component and propagation meshes built by the Mopla module. In each
sector, four DOW points were analyzed to define the representative wave climate.

Table 2
Summary of wave parameters used as input data in the hydrodynamic modeling, including the DOW points, the wave directions, the probability of wave direction (%), the average
annual significant wave height (Hs50%), the associated average annual period (Tp50%), the wave height exceeding 12 h per year (Hs12), and the associated wave period Tp12.
For all propagated cases, the maximum tidal height was defined as 1.61 m based on the tide chart from Brazilian Navy.
Sector Dow Direction Probability Hs50% Tp50% Hs12 Tp12

North P3 E 0.10 0.63 6.57 1.40 11.82

North P3 ESE 88.63 1.18 6.97 2.39 12.86
North P3 SE 11.23 1.26 6.96 2.49 15.45
Central P8 ENE 0.31 0.75 6.87 1.60 15.46
Central P8 E 86.67 1.15 7.20 2.35 10.59
Central P8 ESE 12.97 1.20 6.68 2.34 12.94
South P12 NE 0.23 0.71 6.43 1.44 14.39
South P12 ENE 67.09 0.95 7.10 1.88 10.32
South P12 E 32.52 0.91 6.92 1.86 12.21

reaches 2.3 m with a Tp12 of 12.9 s (Table 2).
To the south, near cape Búzios, there is a reversal of wave direction
compared to the northern sector, with 2/3 of the waves coming from
east-northeast (ENE) and 1/3 from east (E). Under normal weather
conditions, ENE waves have a height of 1.0 m and a period of 7 s, while
at storm conditions, ENE and E waves have an Hs12 of 1.88 m and a Tp12
between 12 and 10.30 s (Table 2).
Fig. 3 presents the results obtained with the COPLA module for the
directions and intensity of wave-induced coastal drift currents. In the
northern sector, under regular wave conditions, the currents have a
preferential N–S direction with a maximum speed of 0.056 m/s near
Tartarugas beach (Fig. 3a). Under extreme wave conditions, associated
with SE wave climate, maximum current velocities reach 0.17 m/s in the
region between Tartarugas and Abricó beach (Fig. 3b).

Fig. 3. Intensity currents related to regular and extreme events in the northern segment of Formosa Bay, using bathymetry obtained through the Kriging inter­
polation method. Figure (a) represents the condition of longitudinal currents under regular wave regime, while Figure (b) represents the conditions of currents under
extreme wave regime (storm). Profile A and Profile B are located at Tartarugas Beach and Abricó Beach, respectively.

5
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro
In the central sector, under regular East swells, the currents have a
preferential N–S direction. The highest velocities are identified near the
mouth of the São João, as values in the order of 0.035–0.05 m/s
(Fig. 4a). Under extreme regime conditions, with SE waves, there is a
reversal in the direction of the currents, S–N. There is also an increase in
velocity in the order of 50% in the sector close to Verão Vermelho beach
and at the mouth of the Una River. In the region of the São João river
mouth the velocities reach 0.12 m/s (Fig. 4b).
In the southern sector, there are two distinct current directions. Near
the viewpoint of Pai Vitório (1), between Gorda Beach and the marina in
Búzios (2), an irregular pattern with currents of higher magnitude and a
preferential northwest direction is observed. Under regular wave regime
conditions from the northeast, the maximum current velocity reaches
0.11 m/s (Fig. 5a), while under extreme wave regime conditions from
the east-northeast, there is an increase in the currents to 0.17 m/s
(Fig. 5b). In Rasa beach, at the southernmost part of the area, the current
direction is southeast, and the velocities range from 0.01 to 0.045 m/s.
4.3. Longshore sediment transport
Results of LST for the three sectors of investigated area are shown in
Fig. 6a, b, and 6c. In the Northern sector, Rio das Ostras town, Tartar­
ugas and Abricó beach have residual sediment transport (Qsr) of
approximately +331,680 m3/yr towards the south and − 68,768 m3/yr
towards the north, respectively. In the central sector, Qsr was estimated
at approximately − 130,800 m3/yr to São João River and − 221,000 m3/
yr to Una River, both northbound. In the southern sector, in Armação
dos Búzios town, the Qsr value at Rasa beach was approximately
182,000 m3/yr towards the south. Meanwhile, at Gorda beach, the re­
sidual sediment transport was approximately − 38,100 m3/yr towards
the north. The average residual solid dischard (Qsravg) was estimated at
+131,442 m3/yr for the northern sector, − 151,908 m3/yr for the central
sector, and +71,987 m3/yr for the southern sector of the investigated
area (Fig. 6).
5. Discussion
The samples collected in the northern sector show a normal distri­
bution with kurtosis and Sk values between 3.3 -d 4.2 and 0.05–0.5,
respectively. Due to the proximity of the mouth of São João River, they
present greater particle size dispersion. Between the central and south­
ern sectors there is a predominance of fine to very fine sand. The sk
Fig. 4. Intensity of currents related to regular and extreme events in the central segment of Formosa Bay, using bathymetry obtained through the Kriging inter­
polation method. Profile C, D, and E are located at the São João River mouth (SJRM), Verão Vermelho Beach, and Una River mouth (URM), respectively. Figure (a)
represents the condition of longitudinal currents under regular wave regime, while Figure (b) represents the conditions of currents under extreme wave
regime (storm).
6
Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834
values are more negative, between - 0.26 and - 2.74 on the Verão Ver­
melho and Rasa beaches. According to Friedman (1962), this informa­
tion is associated with the selective removal of material. In general, the
particle size results suggest a decrease in the average grain diameter
(D50) and an increase in the degree of selection in the north-south di­
rection, according to the model proposed by Gao and Collins (1994).
Through the Downscaled Ocean Waves (DOW) database, using the
SWAN model (IH-CANTÁBRIA, 2017), three distinct wave directions
were identified in the investigated area. These wave directions are
associated with the average azimuth values for each studied sector,
considering the sheltering conditions imposed by the headlands.
Although they have different wave incidences, the North and Central
sectors have similar significant wave heights (Hs). In both sectors, the
regular wave regimes range from 1.18 to 1.15 m, and the extreme wave
regimes range from 2.39 to 2.35 m, respectively. In the South sector,
near Cape Búzios, there was a considerable reduction in Hs in both
identified wave regimes. The wave heights range from 0.95 to 1.88 m.
According to Parente et al. (2014), the wind and wave regimes in this
area are predominantly from the ENE quadrant due to the South Atlantic
Subtropical Anticyclone (SASA). However, in this study, an increase of
the directional spectrum was observed for the E-ESE directions. This is
mainly due to the accuracy of the SMC-Brazil, which combines meth­
odologies involving nautical charts and numerical models oriented to­
wards morphological changes in the coastal zone.
Using the numerical module COPLA - SMC 3.0, the results suggest
that the wave-induced currents in the nearshore zone have higher ve­
locities at the southern sector, close to Gorda beach profile. According to
Bird (2008), the high concentration of coarse sediments on the beach is
associated with the fast deposition and removal of fine sediments, driven
by longshore currents. Studies conducted by Komar and Inman (1970)
and Kuriyama et al. (2008) suggest that the submerged weight of sedi­
ments related to longshore transport is directly proportional to the
longitudinal component of wave energy flow incident on the beach.
Considering the methodology for determining the LST, the results ob­
tained in this study suggest that the central and northern sectors of the
investigated area have higher average wave energy flow, with a seasonal
variation ranging from 47 to 67% between summer and winter months.
According to Parente et al. (2014) and Cabral and Castro (2022), these
oceanographic conditions are related to cyclonic activities recorded in
the southern and southeastern regions of Brazil, between latitudes 20◦ S
and 35◦ S, including the coast of Rio de Janeiro state.
The simulations developed through the SMC-Brazil suggest that the
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834

Fig. 5. Intensity of currents related to regular and extreme events in the southern segment of Formosa Bay, using bathymetry obtained through the Kriging
interpolation method. Figure (a) represents the condition of longitudinal currents under regular wave conditions, while Figure (b) represents current conditions
under extreme wave conditions (storm). Profiles F and G are located at Gorda and Rasa beaches, respectively. Point 1 is located at Mirante da Pai Vitório and point 2
is the Búzios marina.

Fig. 6. Calculated annual longshore sediment transport (Qs) relative to the beach profiles in the three sectors of the investigated area. The southward sediment
transport is defined as positive (blue arrow) and Northward sediment transport is defined as negative (red arrow).

circulation system of longshore currents presents distinct patterns due to
factors associated with wave climate, coastline orientation, and ba­
thymetry of the inner continental shelf of the investigated area. The
occurrence of longshore drift cells along the Formosa Bay is consistent
with the data obtained for the three distinct sectors regarding LST es­
timates and the annual average. Under regular wave conditions, the
northern sector exhibits a preferential north-south coastal drift, but
there is a reversal of currents under extreme events. Between Tartarugas
and Abricó beaches, the average Qsravg was estimated at +131,433 m3/
yr in the north-south direction, despite the predominant wave propa­
gation from the DOW point indicating a higher occurrence of waves
from the ESE. This demonstrates that the orientation of the isobaths in
this coastal sector plays a crucial role on coastal drift generated by wave
breaking.

7
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro
In the central sector, Qsravg values were estimated at − 151,908 m3/
yr. The results suggest the influence of discharges from the São João and
Una rivers. In general, a preferential N–S pattern was observed in the
littoral drift currents. Small variations in the directional spectrum of the
waves in the East - Southeast quadrants may alter the dynamics of the
near-shore circulation. In the southern sector, near Cabo de Búzios, the
average residual sediment transport was estimated at + 71,987 m3/yr in
the N–S direction. This value is considered low due to the absence of
fluvial sediment input in the area. It was found that the headlands exert
a strong influence on the direction of the coastal current. According to
Fernandes and Castro (2020), in rocky outcrops that project into the sea,
the directions of longshore currents are generally irregular in this area.
The circulation pattern along the three investigated sectors results in
the formation of current divergence points or hot spots. This is a fixed or
not rip-current points that’s responsible for the process of erosion and
retreat of the coastline (Castelle et al., 2016). According to Castro et al.
(2011), Muehe et al. (2011), Fernandes and Castro (2020) and Gouvea
Junior et al. (2022), this region experiences erosive processes on the
shoreline due to anthropogenic activities in the backshore zone. In the
northern sector, between Tartarugas and Abricó beaches in Rio das
Ostras town, shoreline retreat rates of approximately − 1.5 m/yr are
observed. In the central region, south of the São João River mouth, the
shoreline retreat rates are around − 1.0 m/yr, while in Verão Vermelho
beach, it is approximately − 0.5 m/yr (Fig. 7).
Figueiredo et al. (2017) state that the rise in sea level is expected as a
precursor to shoreline recession; however, a sediment deficit can have a
similar effect. Given the significant uncertainties regarding sea-level rise
rates and sediment budgets, it is relevant to determine the coast’s
sensitivity to each of these disturbances. According to Castro et al.
(2011), the retreat of the shoreline in the northern and central sectors of
the investigated area is associated with the construction of dams on the
São João River and urban occupation in backshore zone.
Few studies have quantified LST along the coast of Rio de Janeiro
State, southeastern Brazil. According to Cassar and Neves (1993), LST
rates at Itabapoana, Usina and Guaxindiba beaches, north of the Paraíba
do Sul Delta, ranged from 2,500,000 m3/yr to 3,400,000 m3/yr south­
ward. Further south in this area, the LST was 1,500,000 m3/yr north­
ward. In both cases, the mathematical formulation used was the CERC.
Still in the northern region of Rio de Janeiro state, erosion processes are
Fig. 7. Shoreline movement in Formosa Bay between 1976 and 2020 in meters
per year. Source: Adapted from Gouvea Junior et al., 2022).
8
Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834
particularly observed at Barra do Açu and Atafona beaches. Bastos and
Silva (2000), also using the CERC formula, estimated the LST for these
locations at 165,480 m3/yr to 182,500 m3/yr, respectively.
According to Fernandes and Castro (2020), based on a regional his­
torical series of wave climate and using the CERC formula, the mean
longshore sediment transport rate (Qsravg) was estimated at +216,600
m3/yr to northern sector of the investigated area. The discrepancy in the
values obtained between the three published works could be related to
several factors, including the robustness of the wave climate data, the
influence of river discharges and the use of the parameter K, proposed by
Del Valle et al. (1993), which introduces the statistical parameter related
to grain size in the calculation of the littoral sediment transport rate
induced by waves - LST.
6. Conclusion
The results obtained by the SMC-Brazil using the K parameter (Del
Valle et al., 1993) for the CERC formula, complemented by granulo­
metric and bathymetric parameters, show variations in relation to the
modulus and direction of the LST for each sector of the study area. At the
Northern sector, the Qsravg was approximately 131,442.745 m3/yr while
in the Southern sector it was 71,987.69 m3/yr and in the Central sector it
was − 151,908.32 m3/yr. It was evident that longshore sediment trans­
port varied considerably in the three sectors analyzed.
Before the construction of the São João River’s dam in the Central
sector of the studied area, the discharge of fluvial sediments made a
significant contribution to the sediment input on the local inner conti­
nental shelf. The changes in the direction of sediment transport are
evident in the granulometric patterns of each analyzed sector. Physi­
cally, the statistical results are associated with the preservation of
sediment properties from the source area to deposition. Samples from
the central and northern regions exhibit a greater dispersion of particle
size classes, suggesting proximity to the source area, whereas in the
southern region, the particle size and degree of selection indicate a
reduction in classes and less energy in sediment transport.
The Coastal Modeling System of Brazil - SMC/Brazil has proven to be
efficient in handling the data obtained in this manuscript. The adopted
procedures allowed addressing the processes related to the local coastal
dynamics. The propagation of the wave climate in the region was
simulated, from deep water to the shoreline, including the effects of
refraction, diffraction, and wave dissipation due to breaking or shoaling.
The wave-induced currents at nearshore were calculated, allowing the
characterization of the coastal circulation and the longshore sediment
transport - LST in the investigated cove. Efforts should be made for
further improvement at the modeling system used in this work. It is
suggested to include river discharges data in coastal areas to improve the
COPLA module calculation and to evaluate the effects of rivers jet on
longshore currents and sediment transport.
CRediT authorship contribution statement
Daniel Fernandes: Writing – review & editing, Writing – original
draft, Visualization, Validation, Software, Methodology, Investigation,
Formal analysis, Data curation, Conceptualization. João Wagner
Alencar Castro: Writing – review & editing, Supervision, Project
administration, Methodology, Investigation, Funding acquisition,
Formal analysis, Data curation, Conceptualization.
Declaration of competing interest
The authors declare that they have no known competing financial
interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence
the work reported in this paper.
D. Fernandes and J.W. Alencar Castro Journal of South American Earth Sciences 137 (2024) 104834

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