learn how to draft

Women’s Pants

difficulty level: intermediate

pattern block: basic pants
 Table of Contents

Introduction .........................................................................................................2

Welt pockets...............................................................................................................3

Palazzo pants............................................................................................................5

Lounge pants.............................................................................................................8

Tailored shorts....................................................................................................11

Classic women’s pants..................................................................................14

1
 introduction

This e-guide will teach you how to draft an array of styles for women’s pants.
There’s no common theme for them, as the idea is to introduce
a variety of waistlines, lengths, closures, pockets, and other details.

Included, are palazzo pants, lounge pants, tailored shorts with turned-up cuffs, and
classic women’s pants that you can make with or without the pleats.

You may then use this knowledge to create more pant styles by swapping elements of
different designs.

Start with a basic pants block. The optimal amount of ease at the hipline is 2cm.
However, for the lounge pants, you can choose to add extra ease.

The classic pant styles look their best in light to medium-weight wool, and other suiting
fabrics. For the lounge pants, you could use jersey, flannel or satin,
depending on the look you’re going for.

Ensure that you’ve tested and adjusted the basic pants block beforehand.

Always make at least a partial toile before cutting your final fabric.

2
 Welt Pockets
In most cases, the classic tailored pants have welt
pockets at the back, which can be either single or double welt.
Sometimes, although rarely, you can see a flap included.
the finished welt length
(mark on the garment)
These pattern pieces are simple to draft and the same princi-
ples work for all cases. You’ll see two versions for drafting the
patterns. Choose the ones you prefer.
3cm
single welt +
seam
In both cases, you begin by defining the pocket opening
2x allowance length. 12-13cm is a good measurement, however, it also
depends on your garment size (smaller pocket for smaller
pants, etc).

VERSION 1
1.5cm
double welt +
4x seam The Welts
allowance

same length
A welt pattern is a rectangle.
You already know the welt length, for example 12cm. Just add
1-1.5cm seam allowance on both sides.

For a single welt, 1.5cm height is usually suitable. This piece

ing
will be folded in half so you need twice the final width, which is
fac 3cm. Then add 0.7cm of seam allowance on both sides.

The double welt height is half the size of the single welt.
You can make this 2x 0.7cm, which is 1.4cm. Feel free to round
pocket bag
it up to 1.5cm and add 0.7cm of seam allowance on both sides.

Mark notches where the actual pocket opening will be.

The Pocket Bag

2x
2x A pocket bag consists of both a small and a large pocket bag.
The large piece will be attached to the uppermost edge of the
opening, and the small piece to the lower edge.

larger pocket bag attached here
welt 1
welt 2
smaller pocket bag attached here
larger pocket bag attached here
single welt
smaller pocket bag attached here
As the opening will be 1.5cm high, the large pocket bag needs
to be 1.5cm higher* than the small pocket bag.
difference between
the pocket bags=
2x welt width
This pattern piece has the same width as your welt pattern
piece. You can choose the height.
The same pattern can be used for both pocket bags, just add
difference between
the pocket bags=
notches at 1.5cm from the hemline to mark where the small
the welt width
pocket bag ends.

Add 0.7cm of seam allowance to the upper edge and 1-1.5cm

to the lower edge to match with the other two sides.

You can also include a facing that will be attached onto the
upper part of the large pocket bag (see the picture).
finished welt length + seam allowance
*To make the pocket more stable, you can cut the large pocket
bag higher so that it reaches the waistline of your pants like the
pocket flap
version presented on the next page.
4x
The Pocket Flap

The pocket flap pattern piece will have the same width as the
pocket opening. Make the rest of the shape and size as you
choose and add 0.7cm of seam allowance all around.

3
 VERSION 2

The second version has a slightly different construction that

can be more difficult to wrap your head around unless you’re
familiar with sewing welt pockets this way.
Especially the double welt, which has both welts in one piece.
the finished welt length
The positive thing about this version is that you have more
(mark on the garment) control over the final welt height and can adjust it as you go.

The Welts

Also in this case, the welt pattern is a rectangle, but it’s higher
2cm
than the welt pattern in version 1: besides the welt, it will also
for the
upper edge
include material for constructing a ‘window’ for the pocket
1.5cm
opening.
opening

single welt
3cm For the single welt, you can see the usual welt pattern
+
seam (1.5cm+1.5cm) that covers about half of the whole pattern
2x allowance
for the piece. Only add seam allowance to the lower edge.
lower edge
In the center, there’s the 1.5cm pocket opening that you’ll slit
after sewing the first stitches (sewn at a 0.7cm distance from
the center.)
Instead of attaching the pocket bag directly to the upper edge
as you do with version 1 single welt pockets, here, you have a
2cm
facing that will be folded upwards. 2cm will be enough.
for the
upper edge
The large pocket bag will then be sewn to the facing.
Add 1-1.5cm seam allowance to the sides.
1.5cm for
welt 1
double welt 1.5cm The double welt pattern includes both welts and facing in one
opening
2x 1.5cm (welt 2) piece.
+ seam
allowance There’s the 1.5cm pocket opening in the center and the welts
for the
lower edge
on both sides of it. 1.5cm covers twice the final welt height as
usual, as they will be folded in half.
The lower welt piece only needs a seam allowance at the
lower edge, whereas the upper welt has 2cm to create a
facing.

The Pocket Bag

In this case, the pocket bag will be attached to the waistline of

the pants creating a more stable pocket.
small So, in addition to the usual measurements, you’ll also need the
pocket bag pocket bag
distance between the pocket opening and the waistline. Let’s
2x say 7cm.

Draft the small pocket bag first. The width is the same as that
fold here
of your welt pattern piece including the seam allowance.
As the small pocket bag reaches the lower edge of the welt,
you now add the distance from this point to the waistline of
your pants to calculate the total height the large pocket bag
has to cover.
Add 1-2cm extra just in case. The pants waistline is slightly
large
curved, so this way you can trim the pocket bag edge in shape
pocket bag once you’ve sewn it.
Both pocket bags are included in the same pattern piece in

ing
this case. Mark where to fold.

fac Add the missing seam allowance to the horizontal seams.

Ensure that the small pocket bag matches the seam allow-
ance of the welt, and the large pocket bag matches that of the
pants waistline.

pants waistline The optional facing piece will be attached around the pocket
opening area.

4
 Palazzo Pants

These Palazzo Pants are a simple, yet elegant addition

to your wardrobe. They have a dropped waistline and
cropped hemline, although both of these design
elements are fully optional.
The waistband is fairly high, and the zipper is located
within the back seam. There are no pockets.

5cm
Use lightweight wool such as fresco, or other suiting
5cm
fabric.
1.

Begin by copying your basic pants block. Ensure that

you trace the grainline correctly.

1. For the dropped waist, lower the waistline by your

desired amount. In this example, it’s 5cm, but it could be
front pant

back pant

less, too. Follow the original waistline shape.

You might need to take in a bit at the side seams for a
good fit (see the dashed line).
Then draw another, parallel line underneath to separate
the waistband. Here, the waistband is 7cm high.
Adapt the dart length to match the waistband, as
shown.
Your basic block could have a dart at the front as well.

2. Raise the hemline by 10cm, for example, or leave the

2.
pants full length.
10cm 10cm

5
 3. The Palazzo pant legs are pretty wide. The basic pants’
back piece leg is wider than the front.
straight
straight down To maintain this setting, you should add the same
down
amount to both the front and back hemline.
front pant

back pant

First draw a line straight down from the front crotch

point and side seam as shown. For the side seam, start
at the widest point, which should be at the hipline.

Measure how much you added at the front hemline, so

that you can add the same amount to the back hemline.

Draw a straight line for the back side seam, too. Measure
3. how much you added at the hemline, and then add the
remaining amount to the opposite side.
measure
measure how
much you added total add the As the back crotchline is longer, you need to curve
remaining
volume
slightly to finish the inseam.

With the same technique, you can also make flared

pants. Just ensure that you add the same amount to
both front and back hemline.
4.

4. Finally, separate the waistband pieces. Close the dart

and adjust the lines.

The waistband will be cut twice, so you get the facing as

well.
front pant

back pant

This being a dropped waist, you may need to adjust the

new waistline measurement slightly. But you can do that
during fitting.

6
 Here are the final pattern pieces.

Add seam and hem allowance to each piece if you wish.

Pants usually have a wider hemline, 4cm.

waistband back:
Ensure that the outer seams and the inner seams are
waistband front:
cut 2 on fold+interfacing
cut 4+interfacing
the same lengths and that the lines run smoothly
c.b.

between the various pattern pieces: the hemline, the

c.f.

90°
90° waistline, and the crotch curve.
zipper

The waistline needs to start at a right-angle both at the

c.front and c.back.
front pant: cut 2

Mark a notch on the backpiece level with the hipline so

back pant: cut 2

that you know where the zipper ends. Invisible zipper is

the best choice here.

You may also want to add notches at the knee line to

make it easier to sew the front and back pieces
together.

The top layer of the waistband should be interfaced.

There’s no button, but the zipper continues the entire
way up.

7
 Lounge Pants

These lounge pants have an elastic waistband, cuffs at

the hemline, and they have pockets on both the front
and back. There’s a dropped waistline and you can add
some extra ease to the pattern to make these pants
more comfortable to wear.
These pants can be made in different ways to achieve
different looks, as you’ll soon see.

Choose knit fabrics, such as jersey, or go with satin or

flannel.
1.
Trace your basic pants block. Refer to the Basic Pants
ne

PDF if you wish to add, for example, 2cm of ease.

l li
lle
a
par

1. To be able to put your pants on without a zipper, the

straight
up from waistline needs to be at least as wide as your hips.
the hip line
The simplest way to achieve this is to draw straight
seam lines from the hip level up, as shown. The c.front,
front pant

side seams and the c.back lines will be affected.

back pant

Draw guidelines (parallel to the hipline) from the original

waistline to maintain the same height.

2. There are a few ways to finish the hemline:

you could add an elastic in a casing, make a normal,
non-gathered hemline, or as in this case, add a cuff.

If you choose the cuff, shorten the pants by half of the

cuff height. For example, if your cuffs are going to be
6cm high, you’d shorten the pant hemline by 3cm.
3cm 3cm 3cm 3cm
half
cuff
half
cuff
If you’re making pajama-style pants with non-gathered
height 2. height hems, and want to make the hemline wider, add the
same amount (here 3cm) to each side of the pant leg:
see the dashed line.

8
 lower the waistline
3.
3. Draw the new waistline and lower it by your desired
amount. You can ignore the waist dart.

4. You can either buy ready-made cuffs, or make them

yourself. The best material for this is the tubular rib knit.
It has the perfect amount of stretch.
front pant

back pant
If you don’t have the option to use this, you can use a
regular jersey. However, the cuffs might need to be
bigger, if the fabric doesn’t have much stretch.

The pattern is a rectangle where the length is your cuff

circumference, and the width is double the final cuff
height. Here, the cuffs are 6cm high, so the pattern will
be 12cm wide.

To decide on your cuff circumference, measure around

your ankle and add some ease. The amount of ease
depends on the amount of stretch the fabric has. It’s
better to start with more ease and then remove the extra
2x
cuff while sewing if you discover that you don’t need as
4. height
much.
cuff circumference
The cuff needs to be able to stretch enough to accom-
modate each leg’s hemline circumference, so test by
stretching the cuff fabric.

5. Separate the waistband with a parallel line.

It will be cut in two layers and the elastic will be cased
inside. In this example, the waistband is 6cm high.
As the waistline is slightly curved, you aren’t able to
facing simply fold it to create the casing. This is why you need
two layers.
6cm
5. 7cm
Another possibility is to make the waistband using only a
12cm

wide elastic. In this case, you won’t need a waistband

6. pattern piece at all.
15cm

6. The front pocket consists of a single pocket bag piece

front pant

that will be top stitched to the pants’ front piece around

the pocket bag. It will be cut in the same fabric as the
pants, so you won’t need a facing either.
Instead, the pocket opening will either have a little
facing or you can finish the edge with a bias tape.

Draft the pocket opening, facing, and pocket bag shape

directly onto the front pant piece using the reference
measurements, or your own. Place your hand on the
pattern to evaluate the pocket size.
The pocket opening can also be a straight line.

Copy the pocket bag shape, adding notches where the

opening is. The grainline follows that of the pants.
Also copy the facing piece.

9
 3cm 7. Separate the back waistband the same way you did
6cm
cm with the front piece.
13
x
7. cm
13
If you’d like your pants to have patch pockets, mark the
pocket placement approximately in the middle of the
back piece, 6cm below the waistline, following more or
less its inclination.
back pant

The pocket width could be, for example, 13cm. Draft the
shape onto the back piece to get an idea of how it’ll
look. Then, copy the piece and add 3cm facing on top to
will be folded under.

Here are the final pattern pieces.

Add seam and hem allowance if you wish, and then

check that all the lines flow smoothly between the
different pieces and the seams that will be sewn togeth-
er are the same length. In this case, the outer seams and
pocket facing:
cut 2 + interfacing the inseams of the pants. You may tape the pocket
pocket bag:

back
pocket:
piece in place to make it easier to check the outer seam.
cut 2

cut 2

waistband The “walking” method works the best when checking

waistband
front:
back:
cut 2 on fold+
curved seams.
cut 2 on fold+ interfacing
interfacing
c.b.

Add a notch to the front waistband piece where the

c.f.

pocket opening is, and add notches to the front pant

90°

piece where the pocket bag edge will be.

Also, add a notch where the pocket opening will be at
the back piece side seam.

Cut the waistband twice on the fold and interface the

back pant:
front pant:

top layer. Choose an elastic that has a similar height, or

cut 2
cut 2

create a smaller casing inside the waistband by top

stitching. If you add holes near to the c.front of the
waistband, you can also insert drawstrings.
Notice, that the elastic shouldn’t be too tight for a
dropped waist. Otherwise the pants will hike up to your
natural waist.

As the front and back hemlines have different widths,

you can’t easily add notches for the cuff at this point. It’s
better to divide the pant hemline and the cuff into four
sections directly at the sewing phase, before attaching
the cuff. This way you’ll gather evenly.
cuff:
cut 2

10
 Tailored Shorts

Here’s a pair of tailored shorts with turned-up cuffs, front

pockets, and faux single welt pockets in the back.
They have a shaped waistband and a centered button
closure. You can also make these into full-length pants.

For a classic look, make the shorts in lightweight wool.

For a more casual look. try, linen, denim, or polycotton.

Trace the basic pants block. For shorts, you don’t need
to trace the full length.
1.
1. Separate the waistband following the waistline shape.
pants length from front waist

5cm
Here, it’s 5cm high.
If you’d like to have a dropped waistline, do that first as
2. shown in the previous designs.

The waistband height might not cover the whole dart

length. You can remove the remaining dart from the side
front pant

seam, as in the picture. Otherwise, the pants’ waistline

back pant

3.
measurement won’t match with the waistband.

2. Decide on the length of your shorts. Measure from the

front waistline down and shorten the hemline accord-
ingly.

The back waistline is higher, as you need extra length for

the c.back seam to cover the back when sitting down.
This is why you measure from the front waistline.

You can refer to the distance from the crotch line to

make the back piece the same length. Here, it’s 8cm.

3. Straighten the remaining pant leg sides as much as

you can; the turned-up cuffs will work better this way.
When fitting, you might also find that you need to
shorten the crotch curve.

11
 4. Separate the waistband pieces.
4.
1.5cm
Add 1.5cm overlap to the c.front, as the final button
placket will be 3cm wide. This way the buttons end up in
the center.
front pant

back pant
Close the back dart and adjust the lines.

5. Let’s create the turned-up cuffs. You can always

5cm 5cm
simply fold the pant hemline upwards, but that would
5. reveal the wrong side of the pants.
To avoid this, we’ll create the effect differently:
There will be a pleat to make it look like the cuff is turned
up.

Begin by choosing your cuff height. In this case, it’s 5cm.

Draw a line parallel to the hemline and cut.

6. Add pleat allowance slightly narrower than the cuff

height. Here, 4.5cm x 2 =9cm. This way the hemline won’t
have bulk.

Then, add facing, which will also need to be narrower

front pant

back pant

than the cuff height. (Here, 4cm.) This will enable you to
sew it without the stitches showing on the right side.
p

fol
fold u

6. Fold the cuffs the way they will be sewn before cutting
du

4.5+4.5cm fold 4.5+4.5 cm fold

p

the sides to get the right shape for the pleat allowance
4cm facing
fold under
4cm facing
fold under
and the facing.

7. For the button closure, you need to add a button

placket to the c.front of the shorts. It should reach at
least the hipline level, which is the widest part of your
pants.

The final button placket is 3cm wide and the buttons will
end up exactly on the c.front. It will be folded twice.

2.8cm 1.5cm 8. 9.
First, extend 1.5cm from the c.front line (half of the
7. 3cm 5cm
button placket width) to create an overlap. Then, add
3cm (the button placket width), and finally 2.8cm.
14-
1
front pant

5c
m

flip
2mm
et
wrong
side 8. Draw the front pocket opening and pocket bag shape
ck
po ag
b
up
directly onto the front piece. Try to avoid ending the
pocket opening exactly at the hip level as that will make
the hips look wider.
The vertical line of the pocket bag should be straight
and follow the grainline of the shorts.
un
ite Extend 2mm at the side seam, where the pocket open-
ing is, to provide a small amount of ease. The front pant
and small pocket bag piece will follow this shape. The
large pocket bag won’t.

9. Copy the pocket bag pieces. Flip the small pocket bag
wrong side up and unite it to the large pocket bag as
shown; The whole pocket bag will be cut into one piece,
which means it’s made using the same fabric as the
pants. Otherwise, don’t unite the two pieces.

12
 10. There are faux welt pockets at the back. These are
only a design detail. However, you can also make normal
pockets following the instructions on page 3, if you wish.
7cm
10.
The final pocket width is 12-13cm (or slightly different,
12-13cm 1.5cm
back pant
depending on your size). Mark the pocket placement
12-13cm
onto the back pattern, CA. 7cm under the waistline,
following the inclination.
The line refers to the slit, so the actual welt starts about
0.7cm under the line.

Draft the 1.5cm high single welt pattern piece as usual.

You’ll need a little facing piece to cover the pocket

opening on the wrong side. The height will be 1.5cm, as
that’s the size of the hole. The length is the same as that
of the welt. Add seam allowance on each side to match
those of the welt pattern.

Here are the final pattern pieces.

Add seam allowance if you prefer, and then check that

all the lines flow smoothly between the different pieces
and that the seams that will be sewn together are the
same length.
waistband back:
cut 2 on fold+
interfacing
It’s easier to check the side seams if you don’t cut the
waistband front:
cut 4+ interfacing “pocket angle” away from the front piece, but just fold it
c.b.

90° under instead.

90°

Add notches where the cuff and button placket will be

front pant: cut 2

back pant: cut 2

folded at both ends.

Also, add a notch onto the front waistband piece and the
back pant piece where the pocket opening will be.

The pocket bag piece will have notches where it will be

folded and where the pocket opening is.

welt: Mark the button placement at the c.front line of the

cut 2 + interfacing
button placket.
pocket bag:

For women, the buttonholes will be on the right side and

cut 2

the buttons on the left. Make the buttonholes about

2mm wider than the button if you have classic flat
back pocket buttons. They will be placed vertically along the button
facing:
cut 2 placket. The one on the waistband will be horizontal.

After sewing the button plackets, finish by topstitching

the lower edges of the two sides together to strengthen
the crotch seam.

Instead of this centered button closure, you can also use

the fly front zipper construction of the following design,
or de-center the buttons, as you usually see them,
making the right and left sides slightly different: no over-
lap on the right side and 3cm overlap on the left.

13
 Classic Women’s Pants

These are classic women’s pants with a fly front closure,

front pockets, straight waistband, and double welt
pockets in the back.
You can make the pants with or without the front pleat.

Use lightweight wool or other suiting fabric. Pinstripes

will work great with this design.

Copy your basic pants block.

1. If you don’t want a pleat in the front of these pants, you

pivot
can skip this step. Otherwise, we need to add volume
pivot
1.5-2cm 1. 1.5-2cm for the pleat as follows:

Use the original basic pants block (front) you just

copied.
Place it on top of the copy, matching the knee line.
Then, starting from the side seam, hold the pants block
front pant

front pant

still at the outer edge of the knee line (see the dot), and
pivot, adding 1.5-2cm to the waistline as shown.
Re-draw the side seam using your pants block.

This will be half of the pleat volume. So, if you want to

have a total of 3cm, you add 1.5cm. For 4cm you’ll need
2cm.

Then, do the other side of the front piece in the same

way, adding 1.5-2cm at the c.front of the waistline.

Why not add the volume all the way to the hemline?
Doing so, you wouldn’t get that classic pants look where
the pleat exists only on the upper part of the pants and
then “vanishes”.
Pivoting and copying ensures that the lengths remain
the same as the front piece still needs to match the
back piece.

14
 2. Draw the new waistline. Here, you can see the result-
ing pleat. It’s either 3 or 4cm wide at the waistline,
depending on what you chose. It coincides with the
2.
grainline, so this way the pleat will end up in the center
3/4cm of the leg.

Add notches for the pleat. The first being where the
grainline is, and the second one 3 or 4cm towards the
side seam.
The dashed line shows the shape of the pleat allow-
ance. It will be folded towards the side seam.
front pant

Going down, the pleat becomes a crease that will then

continue to the hemline, following the grainline (which is
also the crease line of the pants).

This pleat is meant to remain closed at the top. So, if the

pleat tends to open when you’re fitting the pants, it
means that your pants are too tight.

If you want a second pleat, you’ll get the volume by

adding half of the pleat allowance at the front side
seam, and the other half at the back side seam, from the
hipline up. The second pleat should be smaller than the
first one, for example, just 2cm total, so you add 1cm
both front and back.

If you don’t like the pleat placement, you may move

them closer to the c.front, But then you won’t be able to
press the crease lines, as they will no longer match with
the pleats.
4.
5.
3. measure The pleat(s) need to be added at the beginning,
6cm
3cm
because the rest of the pattern, such as the pockets,
7cm

can’t be drafted before this.

14c
c.front

90° 12-13cm
0.7cm
m

2mm 3. Add 3cm at the c.front of the pants at a right-angle

from the hipline up. This will become the facing (or fly)
for the right side of the fly front opening.
The left side of the opening ends 0.7cm from the c.front.
front pant

This way the zipper remains hidden underneath the “fly

back pant

side”. Draw a parallel line for it.

4. Mark the pocket placement on the back piece, for

example, 7cm below the waistline. The dart will finish at
the edge of the welt pocket, so adjust the dart length.

Draft the welt pocket pattern as shown on page 3/4.

The back piece is now complete. Measure the waistline,

as you’ll need this information for the waistband pattern.

5. Draw the front pocket opening. It should measure

CA 14cm. Extend 2mm at the side seam to allow for
some ease.

15
 6. Draft the facings for your two pocket bags. The one
7. 6. for the small pocket bag could be, for example, 3cm
2x3cm
1.5cm 3cm
wide and follow the pocket opening shape.
small
pocket The one for the large pocket bag should be slightly
c.front
shield
bag, facing
& front
pant
larger. You can draw whichever shape you choose,
however, don’t let the two facing edges coincide. This is
large
pocket to avoid causing bulk.
bag
& facing
front pant

The facings will be sewn on top of the pocket bag

pieces.

In the picture, you can also see which pattern pieces

follow which side seam shape.

7. The fly front still needs one more detail:

Draft the shield pattern, which is a rectangle
folded in half. It’s ideally slightly longer than the fly front.
This piece will shield you from the zipper.
The width can be adjusted while sewing the piece, but
3cm + 3cm is decent.

You may also like a rounded lower edge for this piece.
measure

8.
8. Close the pleat to draw the pocket bag shape. It will
c.front

3mm be attached to the fly front. Extend 3mm at the lower

edge as shown to add ease on the other side as well.
clos
the p e
leat Copy the pocket bag and facing pieces. You’ll get the
grainline from the front pant piece. Only the small
front pant

pocket bag facing has its own grainline, parallel to the

pocket opening.

Measure the front waist between c.front and side seam.

9. Use the waistline measurements to draft the waist-

band pattern and mark the side seam position.
This piece is a rectangle, with a maximum height of
3cm. The waistband will be folded in half, so the total
height will be 6cm in this case.
c.front
Add 3cm overlap to the c.front. This will be the left side
(right)
side
seam c.back of the waistband where the fly front shield is. The button
0.5cm
will also be attached here.
+3cm Enter 0.5cm at the c.back, in the center of the waistband
overlap to remove gaping.
(left)

16
 waistband: cut 2 + interfacing Here are the pattern pieces.
90°

90° Add seam and hem allowance if you wish, as usual.

cut 1 + interfacing
shield:

c.front

Check that the outer seams and inseams are the same
lengths. The “walking” method works best, as the seams
aren’t straight. Add notches at the knee level.
front pant: cut 2

Ensure that the waistline, hemline, and the crotch curve

back pant: cut 2

line flow smoothly between the front and back pieces.

Use the grainlines to add notches for the crease lines.

Also the back of the pant has them. And if your pants
don’t have the pleats, they can only have the crease.

The waistband, the welts, the pocket facings, and the

shield piece will be interfaced.

©2021 The Shapes of Fabric. All rights reserved.

welt:
cut 4+interfacing

back
pocket
bag:
cut 2+2

pocket
Large facing 1:
pocket bag: cut 2+
interfacing
cut 2

pocket
facing 2:
cut 2
+interfacing

small
pocket bag:
cut 2

17