Wrap
Dress
UPGRADES
Design tweaks and sewing tips for easy-to-wear knit styles
BY NANCY N IX-RICE
A
re you tired of the tug-of-war between fashion and
function, between chic and comfortable? Many
of my wardrobe planning clients find the easiest
answer to balancing those benefits in jersey dresses.
Sewn in spandex-blend solids or prints, they offer stretch,
wrinkle resistance, washability, and figure flattery. One of my
favorite jersey styles is the wrap dress, a classic since the 1970s.
There are many patterns available for jersey wrap dresses, offer-
ing a variety of silhouettes that can work for any figure type.
Jersey wrap dresses excel in the versatility department. Wear
one to the symphony with dressy pumps, then to the grocery
store with flats or sandals. Carry it into cooler weather with
tights and boots or into summer with bare legs and flip-flops.
Rely on one for a polished travel look, too. I recently wore a
navy polka-dot matte jersey wrap dress and coordinating cardi-
gan overnight on an international flight, then straight into a full
day of meetings before finally checking into a hotel, still looking
pulled together.
56 THREADS
T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 56
Not all pattern designs and instructions optimize this dress
style, however. For example, a true wrap dress in a silky knit
tends to fall open awkwardly when you sit or move. Converting
a design into a pullover, faux-wrap version is easy and produces
a more secure garment without sacrificing the comfort and
figure-defining effect of the surplice style.
A neck edge with a self-binding finish is likely to hug the body
more than the plain turned-and-topstitched finish that is
typically part of a wrap dress pattern’s instructions. Opt for a
solid-colored binding to enhance the style lines of an allover
print dress. A two-piece version—a surplice top with a matching
straight or flared skirt—presents additional mix-and-match
opportunities to extend your wardrobe.
I’ll share my favorite pattern hacks to create jersey wrap
dresses that become your favorite garments to wear.
Nancy Nix-Rice is a wardrobe consultant and sewing and style
teacher based in Saint Louis, Missouri. NancyNixRice.com
5/28/20 9:50 AM
 Wear a wrap dress with
confidence, when you make
a few key adjustments.
Pattern: Butterick 6703, modified. Fabric:
rayon/spandex jersey, NancyNixRice.com.

web extra
For a list of wrap-dress patterns you
can use to try out these modifications,
visit ThreadsMagazine.com.

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m

T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 57 5/28/20 9:51 AM

 Create a faux-wrap style
The most effective way to keep a wrap dress modestly closed is to sew the layers in their proper
wrapped position to create a pullover style. The stretch knit fabric means there is no need to add a clo-
sure such as a zipper. Increase the security by extending the underlap side to the opposite side seam.
You’ll start with simple pattern adjustments and a revised sewing sequence. These differ for designs
with or without a waistline seam.

WITH A WAISTLINE SEAM

Adjust the skirt underlap.
1 Place the left skirt front
with its center-front line on
Center front

the fabric fold, and cut it. This

creates a full underlap piece.
Place on
the fold.
Assemble the skirt front.
2 If the pattern includes
gathers or pleats, form these
and baste to secure. Hem the LEFT SKIRT FRONT
overlap side’s vertical edge.
With right sides up, lay the Emphasize asymmetrical
overlap (right) side atop the garment edges with
underlap piece, with waist and contrasting binding.
side seams aligned and centers Pattern: McCall’s 7893, modified.
front matched. Baste along the Fabric: polyester/spandex jersey,
NancyNixRice.com.
waist edge to secure.

Complete the skirt. With right sides together, place the skirt back atop the skirt
3 front unit and align the side seams. Sew the side seams. Hem as desired.

Construct the bodice. Follow

Join the completed
bodice to the skirt
4 the pattern instructions, or
implement some tips described on
unit at the waistline.
the following pages, to create the
bodice. Then, with right sides up,
overlap the right side over the left,
making sure to align centers front
and waistline edges. Baste along the
waistline to secure.

Join the bodice and skirt. With right sides together, align
5 the waistline seam edges, matching centers front and
back and the side seams. Pin, then sew the waistline seam
with a zigzag stitch, 1.0 mm wide and 2.5 mm long.

tip
Add elastic to the waistline. If
The full underlap layer desired, serge the waist seam
prevents unplanned allowances together to form a casing,
leg exposure. Slip a length of 1⁄4-inch-wide elastic
into the casing and adjust it to fit the
waist more closely.

58 THREADS

T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 58 5/28/20 9:51 AM

 WITHOUT A WAISTLINE SEAM
Arrange the front patterns. Lay the overlap (right) side on
1 the table, and lay the underlap side atop it, with centers
front and waist level (or lengthen/shorten line) aligned. Pin
to secure.
Join the side seams. Lay the dress with its fronts right side
4 up, and arrange the overlap and underlap layers. Align them
along the centers front and match the side-seam notches. Baste
the right side seam. Then, with right sides together, align the
back and front unit along the side seams. Pin, then sew.

Adjust the underlap side. On the underlap side, extend

2 the neckline as far as the overlap right side seam. Extend
the underlap vertical skirt edge in a diagonal to the right side
seam, intersecting it 8 inches to 10 inches below the neckline WS
intersection. Create notches on the overlap side seam for
matching. Alternatively, extend the underlap’s entire vertical
edge to the right side seam (not shown), for a fully closed
underlap layer.

Sew the underlap edge

into the side seam.

OVERLAP SIDE
Waist level
UNDERLAP (RS)

UNDERLAP SIDE

Redraw the
underlap so
its free edge
reaches the
side seam.

Center-front
line

FRONT (WS)

Complete the
5 dress. Insert
the sleeves and
hem the dress.
Permanently
Construct the body. Stabilize and sew the shoulder seams, stitch the ties if
3 then complete the neckline treatment as desired. Baste the
ties in position. Hem the underlap’s vertical skirt edge.
they haven’t been
secured in a seam.

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m AU G U ST/ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 0 59

T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 59 5/28/20 9:51 AM

 Revise the tie configuration
Because the ties are no longer needed to hold the dress closed, you can rearrange them to suit your wearing preference. Determine the
desired length before cutting by testing the tying configuration with lengths of ribbon or with a pair of tape measures.

FIT WITH THE TIES SECURE THE OVERLAP LAYER

If you’ve anchored the dress’s layers at the waistline seam, the ties
don’t hold the dress closed, but they can finesse the fit. Add one
end to the bodice overlap at the waist, and insert a longer one into
the right side seam at the waist. Wrap the long tie around the back
waist, and tie the ends at the left waist. This enables you to cinch
the back waist closer to the body.
In a dress without a waist seam, the overlap layer needs to
be secured at the left. Attach one tie to the overlap edge
at waist level; insert the other into the right side seam at
waist level. The side seam tie wraps around the back waist
and ties to the overlap’s tie at the left side. If both ties are
longer, they may encircle the entire waist.

Ties hold the

overlap side
in place.
Insert one tie
into the side
seam and the
other at the
overlap edge.

The ties help

to snug the
waistline
in back.

CREATE FLATTER TIES

Center the tie’s seam. For a more balanced sewn tie,
Overlap
stitch the long seam, then center
tie the seam on the tie as you
press it flat. Sew across one
end to finish the tie, and
turn it right side out. This
eliminates bulk along the
tie’s edges.
WS
Attach a tie to the
overlap edge by
hand or machine.

60 THREADS

T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 60 5/28/20 11:42 AM

 Bind the neckline
Improve a wrap dress’s fit and security by finishing the neckline with a stretch-knit binding.
Original cutting line

PATTERN PREPARATION
Typically, you remove the seam allowance from any edge that is to be bound. I prefer
to leave the seam allowance in place. This brings the neckline edge in for more Remove.
coverage. If there is a tie end that attaches at the waistline, redraw that neckline edge BODICE FRONT OVERLAY
so it tapers gently from the original cutting line to the seamline at the tie attachment
location. The finished attachment position is now the correct width for the tie.
You may bind the neckline edge as far as the waistline or continue the binding down Original seamline
the overlap’s skirt edge.

Tie width
BASIC BINDING
Cut the binding strip. For a pattern with a 5⁄8-inch-wide
1 seam allowance (and finished binding width), make the strip
21⁄2 inches wide by the length of the entire neckline. Cut it on
FRENCH BINDING
Cut the binding strip. For a pattern with a 5⁄8-inch-wide seam
the cross-grain. If necessary, piece the binding strip to obtain
the length needed to bind the garment edge.
1 allowance (and finished binding width), cut a cross-grain strip
31⁄4 inches wide by the total neckline length.

Attach the strip. With right sides together and cut edges
2 aligned, sew the strip to the neckline with a narrow zigzag
stitch (1.0 mm wide, 2.5 mm long). Don’t pin the strip to the
edge first. Instead, stretch it gently along the diagonal edges
as you go (A). Apply a little tension as you sew around the
back neckline.
Fold and attach the strip. Fold it lengthwise, with wrong sides
2 together. With the binding on the neckline’s wrong side, and
all raw edges aligned, sew the binding to the garment (A). As for
the basic binding, stretch the binding slightly along the diagonal
sections, and a bit more around the neckline.

Complete the Complete

3 binding. Wrap
the binding’s free
3 the binding.
Fold the binding
A A
edge over the over the seam
seam allowance Binding allowance to
to the wrong seam the garment’s
side, and pin in right side (B),
place (B). Stitch and edgestitch
FABRIC (RS) FABRIC (RS) along its fold (C).
in the ditch from
the right side to Again, stretch
secure, stretching the binding as
B B
as you did for Pinned Pinned you go.
the first pass binding binding
of stitching (C).
Trim the excess
binding from the
wrong side.

Stitched Edgestitched
binding binding
C C

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m AU G U ST/ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 0 61

T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 61 5/28/20 9:52 AM

 Hem strategically
Most wrap styles have vertical or diagonal skirt edges on the over- and underlap that need to be hemmed before they are integrated into
other seams. Be sure to plan this when revising the dress pattern. In cases where an edge will intersect another seam, sew a few inches
of hem near the seam, and finish the entire hem later. This sequence enables you to sew a continuous hem, down one partially hemmed
vertical edge, around the bottom edge, and back up the other vertical edge.

Photos: Sloan Howard. Illustrations: Steven Fleck. Stylist: Carol J. Fresia. Hair and makeup: model Chloe Malvezzi. Styling credits: shoes—model’s own; (p. 57; p. 60, left) necklace—JCrew.com,
earrings and bracelet—editor’s own; (p. 58; p. 60, right; p. 63, left) necklace and bracelet—editors’ own; (p. 63, right) earrings—editor’s own, necklace—AE Fresia Designs.
Stabilize edges
with fusible
interfacing strips.

Plan to hem any edges that are

incorporated into seamlines early
in the construction sequence.

Sew a few inches of Overlapped hem stitching

Side seam
the hem near the
side seam, then
finish the hem in
the round after
the garment
is complete. Overlapped
hem stitching

Hem the top in two stages, overlapping the stitches where you stop and start.

62 THREADS

T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 62 5/28/20 9:52 AM

 Increase your options
Consider these tips for making wrap garments even more versatile for officewear,
casual occasions, or more formal events.

ADD A DICKEY
Sew a removable panel that attaches to your bra, to fill in the garment’s V-neckline when
you prefer more coverage. Make it to match or coordinate with the dress fabric.
Measure the distance between your bra straps at the top of the cup. Cut a rectangle
this width, by 7 inches to 9 inches high. Finish three edges. Attach the remaining edge to
a stable ribbon or twill tape. Add snaps or hooks and eyes to the tape’s ends, and wrap
them around your bra’s front straps. Tuck the dickey inside the dress.
Photos: Sloan Howard. Illustrations: Steven Fleck. Stylist: Carol J. Fresia. Hair and makeup: model Chloe Malvezzi. Styling credits: shoes—model’s own; (p. 57; p. 60, left) necklace—JCrew.com,
earrings and bracelet—editor’s own; (p. 58; p. 60, right; p. 63, left) necklace and bracelet—editors’ own; (p. 63, right) earrings—editor’s own, necklace—AE Fresia Designs.

Snaps

Twill tape

DICKEY
A coordinating dickey provides extra
coverage without adding more
garment layers.

DRESS IN SEPARATES
Make a surplice top and matching skirt. When worn together, they create the effect of a
dress. The skirt can be a wrap style, if desired, but a simple pull-on pencil or flared skirt
looks just as good and is more secure. You can wear the pieces as separates with other
garments from your wardrobe, too.

Match a wrap top and skirt for a one-piece look.

Patterns: top, McCall’s 8025; skirt, PamelasPatterns.com, Magic
Pencil skirt. Fabric: polyester/spandex jersey, NancyNixRice.com.

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m AU G U ST/ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 2 0 63

T210_NR_WrapDressUpgrades.indd 63 5/28/20 9:53 AM